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Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care

A special issue of Molecules (ISSN 1420-3049). This special issue belongs to the section "Natural Products Chemistry".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 March 2025) | Viewed by 17866

Special Issue Editors


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Guest Editor
Department of Cosmetology, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszów, 35-225 Rzeszów, Poland
Interests: cosmetic plants; natural antioxidants; tyrosinase inhibitors; skin lightening compounds; melanogenesis regulators; cell cultures; 3D tissue models
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Department of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Pomeranian Medical University in Szczecin, 70-111 Szczecin, Poland
Interests: skin penetration study; HPLC; pharmaceutical sciences; plant extraction techniques; antioxidants
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Natural raw materials are an interesting and largely unexplored source of active substances. In recent years, the global market demand for natural cosmetic ingredients has proliferated. Cosmetic preparations containing plant extracts are often characterized by multiple, beneficial effects on the skin. Moreover, there is increasing interest in the isolation of secondary metabolites from plants and their parts, which, as isolated pure compounds, have an extensive range of effects. A vast number of published studies focus on the possibility of utilizing plant secondary metabolites in cosmetology. These compounds can counteract the damage caused by free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which are involved in premature aging, pigmentation disorders and skin inflammation, among others. Moreover, plant extracts and isolated compounds often exhibit multiple biological activities and therefore may be employed as multidirectional skin care and protective ingredients.

Therefore, this Special Issue, entitled “Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care”, aims to present novel data about plant extracts and biomolecules with at least two biological activities that are relevant to their application in cosmetic products.

In this Special Issue, we invite researchers to contribute original research papers regarding the biological effects of plant extracts or biomolecules, including their anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, UV-protecting, skin-lightening and anti-aging properties. Experimental work on the quantitative and qualitative analysis of plant extracts, the analysis of new cosmetic formulations containing plant-based ingredients, the assessment of the penetration of plant substances contained in cosmetics through the skin, and other issues related to the use of natural products in cosmetics is also welcome. We also invite you to submit review articles presenting the current state of knowledge regarding the application of natural products and biomolecules in cosmetology.

Dr. Katarzyna Gaweł-Bęben
Dr. Anna Nowak
Guest Editors

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Keywords

  • plant extracts
  • natural compounds
  • biological activity
  • cosmetics
  • antioxidant
  • anti-aging
  • skin lightening
  • UV protection

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Related Special Issue

Published Papers (12 papers)

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Research

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26 pages, 5132 KiB  
Article
Phenolics as Active Ingredients in Skincare Products: A Myth or Reality?
by Ana Jesus, Smeera Ratanji, Honorina Cidade, Emília Sousa, Maria T. Cruz, Rita Oliveira and Isabel F. Almeida
Molecules 2025, 30(7), 1423; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30071423 - 23 Mar 2025
Viewed by 622
Abstract
Phenolic compounds, with their diverse biological activities, are widely explored as cosmetic ingredients with photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-hyperpigmentation properties, offering a multitargeted approach to combat photo-induced skin aging. The study analyzed 1299 cosmetic products from 2021 to 2024 to understand the market [...] Read more.
Phenolic compounds, with their diverse biological activities, are widely explored as cosmetic ingredients with photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-hyperpigmentation properties, offering a multitargeted approach to combat photo-induced skin aging. The study analyzed 1299 cosmetic products from 2021 to 2024 to understand the market impact of phenolic compounds and their mechanism of action against photo-induced skin damage. A total of 28 active phenolic compounds were identified and the prevalence of phenolics was 13.2% in anti-aging products, 5.2% in sunscreens and 4.8% in aftersun products. Bakuchiol and polyphenols, such as resveratrol, chrysin, and hesperidin methyl chalcone, were found in anti-aging products. Sunscreens and aftersun products were counted with ferulic and caffeic acids, and salicylic acid, respectively. Antioxidant activity was found to be the primary mechanism of action of phenolic compounds by scavenging reactive species, thus mitigating oxidative stress. Ferulic and caffeic acids, chrysin, and glucosylrutin can also absorb UV radiation, acting preventively against solar-induced skin damage. This study provides insights into the limited use of phenolic compounds in commercial cosmetics, despite their diverse biological activities, and suggests potential barriers to wider use in skin and sun care products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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27 pages, 7258 KiB  
Article
Apiaceae Bioferments Obtained by Fermentation with Kombucha as an Important Source of Active Substances for Skin Care
by Zofia Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Aleksandra Ziemlewska, Martyna Zagórska-Dziok, Agnieszka Mokrzyńska, Magdalena Wójciak and Ireneusz Sowa
Molecules 2025, 30(5), 983; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30050983 - 20 Feb 2025
Viewed by 550
Abstract
This article attempts to comprehensively assess plants from the Apiaceae family, such as Apium graveolens, Daucus carota or Petroselinum crispum, as raw plant materials with potential uses in cosmetic products with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. The work compares the phytochemical profiles [...] Read more.
This article attempts to comprehensively assess plants from the Apiaceae family, such as Apium graveolens, Daucus carota or Petroselinum crispum, as raw plant materials with potential uses in cosmetic products with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. The work compares the phytochemical profiles and activity of extracts and ferments from the roots of these plants obtained during fermentation using kombucha. The antioxidant properties of the tested extracts, the effect on the intracellular level of free radicals and their cytotoxicity towards skin cells were compared. Their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties were also assessed. The ABTS and DPPH tests indicated the highest antioxidant potential of the carrot ferments, achieving a 55.75% and 74.6% reduction of these radicals, respectively. The resazurin and Neutral Red assays indicated that in most cases, sample concentrations not exceeding 2.5% did not cause a cytotoxic effect, and in the case of a 20-day parsley ferment, they could increase viability by over 40%. The disk diffusion method indicated growth inhibition zones of over 20 mm for some bacteria. The minimum inhibitory concentrations for seven different bacterial strains ranged from 200 to 400 µg/mL. Anti-inflammatory properties were determined using the ELISA method, assessing the level of interleukins 1β, 6 and 10. The obtained results indicate a higher amount of phytochemicals, a lack of cytotoxic effect at lower concentrations of the tested samples and significantly stronger antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties of the ferments compared to the extracts. This effect depends on the concentration and fermentation time used. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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21 pages, 1549 KiB  
Article
Nasturtium officinale Microshoot Culture Multiplied in PlantForm Bioreactor—Phytochemical Profiling and Biological Activity
by Marta Klimek-Szczykutowicz, Magdalena Anna Malinowska, Aleksandra Gałka, Ivica Blažević, Azra Ðulović, Paulina Paprocka, Małgorzata Wrzosek and Agnieszka Szopa
Molecules 2025, 30(4), 936; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30040936 - 18 Feb 2025
Viewed by 558
Abstract
Nasturtium officinale R. Br. (watercress) is an endangered species with valuable pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and nutritional properties. The purpose of this work was to evaluate the phytochemical profile and biological activity of extracts from microshoot cultures grown in PlantForm bioreactors and the parent plant [...] Read more.
Nasturtium officinale R. Br. (watercress) is an endangered species with valuable pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and nutritional properties. The purpose of this work was to evaluate the phytochemical profile and biological activity of extracts from microshoot cultures grown in PlantForm bioreactors and the parent plant material. After 20 days of cultivation, the cultures achieved the best results both in terms of key active ingredient content and biological activity. The glucosinolates (GSL) profile by the UHPLC-DAD-MS/MS method showed that the dominant compounds were glucobrassicin (493.00 mg/100 g DW, 10 days) and gluconasturtiin (268.04 mg/100 g DW, 20 days). The highest total polyphenol content (TPC) was obtained after a 20-day growth period (2690 mg GAE/100 g DW). Among polyphenols, the dominant compounds in the extracts from in vitro cultures were sinapinic acid (114.83 mg/100 g DW, 10 days) and ferulic acid (87.78 mg/100 g DW, 20 days). The highest antioxidant potential assessed by ABTS and DPPH assays was observed for ethanol extracts. The best results for inhibiting hyperpigmentation (18.12%) were obtained for ethanol extracts and anti-elastase activity (79.78%) for aqueous extract from N. officinale microshoot cultures. The extracts from microshoot cultures inhibited the growth of bacteria, including Cutibacterium acnes (MIC = 0.625 mg/mL). Antioxidant tests and the chelating capacity of iron ions Fe2+ of the face emulsion with N. officinale extracts showed higher results than the control. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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17 pages, 5566 KiB  
Article
Hybrid Systems of Oleogels and Probiotic-Loaded Alginate Carriers for Potential Application in Cosmetics
by Anna Łętocha, Małgorzata Miastkowska, Elżbieta Sikora, Alicja Michalczyk, Marta Liszka-Skoczylas and Mariusz Witczak
Molecules 2024, 29(24), 5984; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29245984 - 19 Dec 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1085
Abstract
Oleogels (organogels) are systems resembling a solid substance based on the gelation of organic solvents (oil or non-polar liquid) through components of low molecular weight or oil-soluble polymers. Such compounds are organogelators that produce a thermoreversible three-dimensional gel network that captures liquid organic [...] Read more.
Oleogels (organogels) are systems resembling a solid substance based on the gelation of organic solvents (oil or non-polar liquid) through components of low molecular weight or oil-soluble polymers. Such compounds are organogelators that produce a thermoreversible three-dimensional gel network that captures liquid organic solvents. Oleogels based on natural oils are attracting more attention due to their numerous advantages, such as their unsaturated fatty acid contents, ease of preparation, and safety of use. As a result of the research, two oleogels were developed, into which freeze-dried alginate carriers with a probiotic, L. casei, were incorporated. Two techniques were used to produce probiotic-loaded capsules—extrusion and emulsification. Alginate beads obtained by the extrusion process have a size of approximately 1.2 mm, while much smaller microspheres were obtained using the emulsification technique, ranging in size from 8 to 17 µm. The trehalose was added as a cryoprotectant to improve the survival rate of probiotics in freeze-dried alginate carriers. The encapsulation efficiency for both of the methods applied, the emulsification and the extrusion technique, was high, with levels of 90% and 87%, respectively. The obtained results showed that the production method of probiotic-loaded microspheres influence the bacterial viability. The better strain survival in the developed systems was achieved in the case of microspheres produced by the emulsification (reduction in bacterial cell viability in the range of 1.98–3.97 log in silica oleogel and 2.15–3.81 log in sucragel oleogel after 7 and 30 days of storage) than by the extrusion technique (after a week and a month of oleogel storage, the decrease in cell viability was 2.52–4.52 log in silica oleogel and 2.48–4.44 log in sucragel oleogel). Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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31 pages, 3784 KiB  
Article
Controlled Release of Madecassoside and Asiaticoside of Centella asiatica L. Origin from Sustainable Cold-Processed Topical Formulations
by Monika Krzyżostan, Agata Wawrzyńczak and Izabela Nowak
Molecules 2024, 29(23), 5583; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29235583 - 26 Nov 2024
Viewed by 1891
Abstract
Centella asiatica L. extract is a promising natural agent for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. It significantly reduces inflammation due to its immunomodulatory properties, mainly attributed to the presence of pentacyclic triterpenes, namely madecassoside and asiaticoside. Their incorporation into sustainable cold-processed topical formulations, [...] Read more.
Centella asiatica L. extract is a promising natural agent for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. It significantly reduces inflammation due to its immunomodulatory properties, mainly attributed to the presence of pentacyclic triterpenes, namely madecassoside and asiaticoside. Their incorporation into sustainable cold-processed topical formulations, such as emollient-rich emulsions and cosmetic gel containing natural hydrophilic polymers, should inhibit inflammation in atopic skin. Therefore, the objective of this study is to investigate the controlled release of madecassoside and asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica L., loaded into topical formulations, namely emollient-rich O/W and W/O emulsions and cosmetic gel, which could support the treatment of atopic dermatitis. The carriers of active substances have been prepared with sustainable emulsifiers, active substances, and emollients obtained by green technologies from food industry wastes. Low-energy methods during the carrier emulsification process were applied to reduce carbon footprints and preserve the valuable properties of the raw materials used. The influence of the Centella asiatica L. extract on the physicochemical properties of the formulations was studied, showing a satisfactory degree of stability of the formulations obtained. Moreover, factors that may influence the mechanism and kinetics of the release of madecassoside and asiaticoside, such as the concentration of the active substance, the pH of the dissolution medium, and the type of the carrier, have been tested and widely discussed. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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20 pages, 4274 KiB  
Article
Efficient Production of Some Bioactive Depsides and Simple Phenolic Acids by Microshoots of Aronia × Prunifolia (Purple Aronia) Agitated Cultures as the Result of Feeding Strategy with Four Different Biogenetic Precursors
by Paweł Kubica, Agnieszka Szopa, Adam Setkiewicz and Halina Ekiert
Molecules 2024, 29(19), 4622; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29194622 - 29 Sep 2024
Viewed by 849
Abstract
A precursor feeding strategy was used for the first time in agitated microshoot cultures of Aronia × prunifolia. This strategy involved the addition of biogenetic precursors of simple phenolic acids (phenylalanine, cinnamic acid, and benzoic acid) and depsides (caffeic acid) into the [...] Read more.
A precursor feeding strategy was used for the first time in agitated microshoot cultures of Aronia × prunifolia. This strategy involved the addition of biogenetic precursors of simple phenolic acids (phenylalanine, cinnamic acid, and benzoic acid) and depsides (caffeic acid) into the culture media, with an assessment of its effect on the production of these bioactive compounds. The in vitro cultures were maintained in Murashige–Skoog medium (1 mg/L BAP and 1 mg/L NAA). Precursors at five concentrations (0.1, 0.5, 1.0, 5.0, and 10.0 mmol/L) were fed into the medium at the time of culture initiation (point “0”) and independently on the 10th day of growth cycles. The contents of 23 compounds were determined in methanolic extracts of biomass collected after 20 days of growth cycles using an HPLC method. All extracts contained the same four depsides (chlorogenic, neochlorogenic, rosmarinic, and cryptochlorogenic acids) and the same four simple phenolic acids (protocatechuic, vanillic, caffeic, and syringic acids). Chlorogenic and neochlorogenic acids were the predominant compounds in all extracts (max. 388.39 and 263.54 mg/100 g d.w.). The maximal total contents of all compounds were confirmed after feeding with cinnamic acid (5 mmol/L, point “0”) and caffeic acid (10 mmol/L, point “0”), which caused a 2.68-fold and 2.49-fold increase in the contents of the estimated compounds vs. control cultures (603.03 and 558.48 mg/100 g d.w., respectively). The obtained results documented the efficacy of the precursor feeding strategy in enhancing the production of bioactive compounds in agitated cultures of A. × prunifolia and suggest a potential practical application value. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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15 pages, 4227 KiB  
Article
Cosmetically Applicable Soluble Agonists for Toll-like Receptor 2 Produced by Fermentation of Asparagus Extract Supplemented with Skimmed Milk Using Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis TL24 Consist of Molecules Larger than 100 kDa and Can Be Stabilized by Lyophilization with Dextrin
by Yasuhiko Komatsu and Kanako Matsunaga
Molecules 2024, 29(19), 4557; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29194557 - 25 Sep 2024
Viewed by 971
Abstract
Cosmetically applicable soluble agonists for Toll-like receptor 2 (TLR2), which can strengthen skin barrier function, were produced by fermentation of asparagus (Asparagus officinalis L.) extract supplemented with skimmed milk using Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis TL24. Their molecular size was estimated to be [...] Read more.
Cosmetically applicable soluble agonists for Toll-like receptor 2 (TLR2), which can strengthen skin barrier function, were produced by fermentation of asparagus (Asparagus officinalis L.) extract supplemented with skimmed milk using Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis TL24. Their molecular size was estimated to be >100 kDa. Their TLR2-stimulating activity was stable over 1 year at 4 °C, but it decreased by more than 95% within 10 and 4 months at 25 °C and 40 °C, respectively. The possibility of stabilization of TLR2-stimulating activity by powdering was tested, and we found that lyophilization with 10% or a higher amount of dextrin could stabilize the activity even at 40 °C. The powdered fermented product dose-dependently stimulated TLR2. It augmented the formation of tight junctions in normal human keratinocytes, as detected by fluorescence staining of occludin and ZO-1, whereas their protein and gene expression levels did not increase, suggesting that a change in subcellular localization of these proteins without significant changes in their amounts might be responsible. The powder nature has some benefits over the aqueous, besides stability, e.g., it can be dissolved just before application, allowing fresh material to be used each time, and it may widen a range of cosmetic applications in non-aqueous types of cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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Review

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38 pages, 8412 KiB  
Review
The Use of Plants That Seal Blood Vessels in Preparations Applied Topically to the Skin: A Review
by Barbara Hanna Roman, Anna Muzykiewicz-Szymańska, Katarzyna Florkowska, Magdalena Tkacz, Bartłomiej Wilk, Łukasz Kucharski, Agata Madalińska and Anna Nowak
Molecules 2025, 30(9), 1973; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30091973 - 29 Apr 2025
Abstract
Plants provide valuable compounds that positively influence the health of blood vessels, including those in the skin. Numerous plants exhibit anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and vasodilating effects, which enhance blood circulation and may promote skin regeneration and suppleness. Botanical species like Camellia sinensis, Chrysanthellum [...] Read more.
Plants provide valuable compounds that positively influence the health of blood vessels, including those in the skin. Numerous plants exhibit anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and vasodilating effects, which enhance blood circulation and may promote skin regeneration and suppleness. Botanical species like Camellia sinensis, Chrysanthellum indicum, Helichrysum italicum, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Ginkgo biloba, or Artemisia lavandulaefolia may positively influence the health of cutaneous blood vessels in the skin. The beneficial impact in this context is attributed to various secondary metabolites inherent to these plants, including phenolic acids, flavonoids, vitamins, or saponins, which can subsequently enhance microcirculation, diminish swelling, inhibit telangiectasia, occlude blood vessels, and enhance skin appearance. In addition, the high antioxidant activity of plants is also key here, which helps protect vessels from damage caused by oxidative stress. This article provides an overview of specific plants that may positively influence skin blood vessels, along with a discussion of particular active compounds within these plants that exhibit such effects. These herbs not only improve vascular health but also promote a more youthful appearance. By examining their distinct qualities, we can enhance our comprehension of their synergistic effects on skin vitality and resilience. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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20 pages, 2461 KiB  
Review
Cinnamic Acid Derivatives as Potential Multifunctional Agents in Cosmetic Formulations Used for Supporting the Treatment of Selected Dermatoses
by Małgorzata Kabat, Justyna Popiół and Agnieszka Gunia-Krzyżak
Molecules 2024, 29(23), 5806; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29235806 - 9 Dec 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1486
Abstract
Cinnamic acid and its natural derivatives were primarily used in cosmetics as fragrance materials as well as skin and hair conditioners. Nowadays, not only natural but also synthetic cinnamic acid derivatives are used as active ingredients of cosmetic formulations. They still serve as [...] Read more.
Cinnamic acid and its natural derivatives were primarily used in cosmetics as fragrance materials as well as skin and hair conditioners. Nowadays, not only natural but also synthetic cinnamic acid derivatives are used as active ingredients of cosmetic formulations. They still serve as fragrance ingredients but also as active ingredients supporting the treatment of selected dermatoses such as acne vulgaris, atopic dermatitis, and hyperpigmentation. They are also commonly used in anti-aging cosmetic formulations. On the other hand, several cinnamic acid derivatives used as fragrances in cosmetic products are classified as potential allergens which can cause contact dermatitis. The main mechanisms of action proved for various cinnamic acid derivatives include antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic properties. Most commonly used cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics products are hydroxy acids such as ferulic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, and sinapic acid. Chemical synthesis led to several modified acids, esters, and amides, which also showed the potential to be used in cosmetic formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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21 pages, 1653 KiB  
Review
The Potential of Natural Compounds in UV Protection Products
by Jovana Milutinov, Nebojša Pavlović, Dejan Ćirin, Milica Atanacković Krstonošić and Veljko Krstonošić
Molecules 2024, 29(22), 5409; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29225409 - 16 Nov 2024
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 3964
Abstract
Overexposure to ultraviolet radiation mainly leads to skin disorders (erythema, burns, immunosuppression), skin aging, and skin cancer as the most serious side effect. It has been widely accepted that using sunscreen products is an important way to protect against the harmful effects of [...] Read more.
Overexposure to ultraviolet radiation mainly leads to skin disorders (erythema, burns, immunosuppression), skin aging, and skin cancer as the most serious side effect. It has been widely accepted that using sunscreen products is an important way to protect against the harmful effects of UV rays. Although commercial sunscreens have constantly changed and improved over time, there are emerging concerns about the safety of conventional, organic, UV filters due to adverse effects on humans (such as photoallergic dermatitis, contact sensitivity, endocrine-disrupting effects, etc.) as well as accumulation in the environment and aquatic organisms. This is why natural compounds are increasingly being investigated and used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical sunscreens. Some of these compounds are widely available, non-toxic, safer for use, and have considerable UV protective properties and less side effects. Plant-based compounds such as flavonoids can absorb UVA and UVB rays and possess antioxidant, anticarcinogenic, and anti-inflammatory effects that contribute to photoprotection. Apart from flavonoids, other natural products such as certain vegetable oils, carotenoids, stilbenes, and ferulic acid also have UV-absorbing properties. Some vitamins might also be beneficial for skin protection due to their antioxidant activity. Therefore, the aim of this research was to gain insight into the potential of natural compounds to replace or reduce the amount of conventional UV filters, based on recent research. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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27 pages, 2984 KiB  
Review
Metabolites Obtained from Boraginaceae Plants as Potential Cosmetic Ingredients—A Review
by Ewelina Chrzanowska, Bożena Denisow, Halina Ekiert and Łukasz Pietrzyk
Molecules 2024, 29(21), 5088; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29215088 - 28 Oct 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1944
Abstract
One of the challenges of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries is to deliver biochemical compounds that can be advantageous for the skin. Research on Boraginaceae taxa has confirmed their use in traditional medicine and proved the potential biological importance of various molecules in [...] Read more.
One of the challenges of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries is to deliver biochemical compounds that can be advantageous for the skin. Research on Boraginaceae taxa has confirmed their use in traditional medicine and proved the potential biological importance of various molecules in cosmetology. The main classes of valuable compounds associated with Boraginaceae taxa are fatty acids, including γ-linolenic acid, essential oils, phenolic acids (e.g., rosmarinic acid), flavonoids, anthocyanins, tannins, and saponins. Highly specific are naphthoquinone pigments (including shikonin) and allantoin. Another distinguishing feature is the accumulation of silica (silicon dioxide) in trichomes. Some taxa produce mucilages. However, pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs) with toxic properties are also found (mainly in Symphytum spp.); therefore, their applications should be avoided. Extracts or individual compounds of Boraginaceae plants are characterized by antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, anti-irritant, antiaging, and photoprotective activities. Boraginaceae products are widespread in the cosmetic industry as ingredients of creams, balms, lotions, gels, shampoos, lipsticks, perfumes, and deodorants. The most valuable for the cosmetic industry are raw materials obtained from the genera Alcanna Anchusa, Arnebia, Borago, Buglossoides, Cerinthe, Cordia, Echium, Ehretia, Eriodictyon, Glendora, Lappula, Lithospermum, Lycopsis, Macrotomia, Maharanga, Mertensia, Messerschmidia, Myosotis, Omphalodes, Onosma, Pulmonaria, Rindera, Symphytum, Trachystemon, and Trigonotis. Further research should focus on the search for active substances in other plants of the family. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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28 pages, 3357 KiB  
Review
Plant Phenolics in the Prevention and Therapy of Acne: A Comprehensive Review
by Wojciech Koch, Justyna Zagórska, Magdalena Michalak-Tomczyk, Sercan Karav and Anna Wawruszak
Molecules 2024, 29(17), 4234; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29174234 - 6 Sep 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3587
Abstract
Plants are a rich source of secondary metabolites, among which phenolics are the most abundant. To date, over 8000 various polyphenolic compounds have been identified in plant species, among which phenolic acids, flavonoids, coumarins, stilbenes and lignans are the most important ones. Acne [...] Read more.
Plants are a rich source of secondary metabolites, among which phenolics are the most abundant. To date, over 8000 various polyphenolic compounds have been identified in plant species, among which phenolic acids, flavonoids, coumarins, stilbenes and lignans are the most important ones. Acne is one of the most commonly treated dermatological diseases, among which acne vulgaris and rosacea are the most frequently diagnosed. In the scientific literature, there is a lack of a detailed scientific presentation and discussion on the importance of plant phenolics in the treatment of the most common specific skin diseases, e.g., acne. Therefore, the aim of this review is to gather, present and discuss the current state of knowledge on the activity of various plant phenolics towards the prevention and treatment of acne, including in vitro, in vivo and human studies. It was revealed that because of their significant antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities, phenolic compounds may be used in the treatment of various types of acne, individually as well as in combination with commonly used drugs like clindamycin and benzoyl peroxide. Among the various phenolics that have been tested, EGCG, quercetin and nobiletin seem to be the most promising ones; however, more studies, especially clinical trials, are needed to fully evaluate their efficacy in treating acne. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Multifunctional Natural Ingredients in Skin Protection and Care)
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