Search Results (71)

Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.) fruits represent the recognized wellspring of bioactive compounds with various documented bioactivities. Although bilberry leaves are often treated as industrial by-products, they also represent a valuable source of phytochemicals with potential dermocosmetic applications. In this study, extracts of bilberry fruits and leaves were prepared using both conventional solvents (water and 50% ethanol) and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) as green, biodegradable alternatives. The aim of this study was to examine the UV protective activity and inhibitory potential of those extracts against some enzymes (tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, collagenase) that are important in terms of skin conditioning and skin aging. The results of in vitro tests have shown the superiority of NaDES extracts compared to conventional extracts regarding all tested bioactivities. In addition, bilberry leaves extracts were more potent compared to fruit extracts in all cases. The most potent extract was bilberry leaf extract made with malic acid–glycerol, which exhibited strong anti-tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 3.52 ± 0.26 mg/mL), anti-hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ = 3.23 ± 0.30 mg/mL), and anti-collagenase (IC₅₀ = 1.84 ± 0.50 mg/mL) activities. The correlation analysis revealed correlation between UV protective and anti-tyrosinase, UV protective and anti-collagenase as well as between anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase activity. UV protection and anti-tyrosinase activity correlated significantly with chlorogenic acid and hyperoside contents in extracts. The extracts with the best activities also demonstrated a good safety profile in a 24 h in vivo study on human volunteers. Full article

Tuberaria lignosa (Sweet) Samp. (Cistaceae) is a herbaceous species native to southwestern Europe, traditionally used to treat wounds, ulcers, and inflammatory or infectious skin conditions. This study aimed to characterize the phytochemical profile of its aqueous leaf extract and evaluate its skin-related in vitro biological activities. The phenolic composition was determined using UHPLC-HRMS/MS, HPLC-DAD, and quantitative colorimetric assays. Antioxidant activity was assessed against synthetic free radicals, reactive oxygen and nitrogen species, transition metals, and pro-oxidant enzymes. Enzymatic inhibition of tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase were evaluated using in vitro assays. Cytocompatibility was tested on human keratinocytes and NIH/3T3 fibroblasts using MTT and resazurin assays, respectively, while wound healing was evaluated on NIH/3T3 fibroblasts using the scratch assay. Antifungal activity was investigated against several Candida and dermatophyte species, while antibiofilm activity was tested against Epidermophyton floccosum. The extract was found to be rich in phenolic compounds, accounting for nearly 45% of its dry weight. These included flavonoids, phenolic acids, and proanthocyanidins, with ellagitannins (punicalagin) being the predominant group. The extract demonstrated potent antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and antidermatophytic activities, including fungistatic, fungicidal, and antibiofilm effects. These findings highlight the potential of T. lignosa as a valuable and underexplored source of bioactive phenolic compounds with strong potential for the development of innovative approaches for skin care and therapy. Full article

This study explores the valorization of agro-industrial by-products—riceberry broken rice (RBR) and soybean meal (SBM)—as cost-effective substrates for enhancing exopolysaccharide (EPS) production by Bacillus tequilensis PS21. Eight Bacillus strains were screened, and B. tequilensis PS21 demonstrated the highest EPS yield (2.54 g/100 mL DW). The EPS displayed a strong antioxidant capacity with 65.5% DPPH and 80.5% hydroxyl radical scavenging, and a FRAP value of 6.51 mg Fe²⁺/g DW. Antimicrobial testing showed inhibition zones up to 10.07 mm against Streptococcus agalactiae and 7.83 mm against Staphylococcus aureus. Optimization using central composite design (CCD) and the response surface methodology (RSM) revealed the best production at 5% (w/v) RBR, 3% (w/v) SBM, pH 6.66, and 39.51 °C, yielding 39.82 g/L EPS. This EPS is a moderate-molecular-weight (11,282 Da) homopolysaccharide with glucose monomers. X-ray diffraction (XRD) showed an amorphous pattern, favorable for solubility in biological applications. Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) demonstrated thermal stability up to ~250 °C, supporting its suitability for high-temperature processing. EPS also exhibited anticancer activity with IC₅₀ values of 226.60 µg/mL (MCF-7) and 224.30 µg/mL (HeLa) at 72 h, reduced colony formation, inhibited cell migration, and demonstrated anti-tyrosinase, anti-collagenase, and anti-elastase effects. This study demonstrates the successful valorization of agro-industrial by-products—RBR and SBM—for the high-yield production of multifunctional EPS with potent antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer properties. The findings highlight the sustainable potential of these low-cost substrates in supporting the development of green and value-added bioproducts, with promising utilizations across the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic sectors. Full article

Theobroma cacao L. (cocoa) pod husk, a byproduct of the chocolate industry, has potential for commercial applications due to its bioactive compounds. This study aimed to determine the phytochemical composition, biological activity, and clinical efficacy of a standardized extract. This study compared 80% ethanol (CE) and 80% ethanol acidified (CEA) as extraction solvents. The result indicated that CEA yielded higher total phenolic content (170.98 ± 7.41 mg GAE/g extract) and total flavonoid content (3.91 ± 0.27 mg QE/g extract) than CE. Liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (LC/MS/MS) identified various phenolic and flavonoid compounds. CEA demonstrated stronger anti-oxidant (IC₅₀ = 5.83 ± 0.11 μg/mL in the DPPH assay and 234.17 ± 4.01 mg AAE/g extract in the FRAP assay) compared to CE. Additionally, CEA exhibited anti-tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 9.51 ± 0.01 mg/mL), anti-glycation (IC₅₀ = 62.32 ± 0.18 µg/mL), and anti-collagenase (IC₅₀ = 0.43 ± 0.01 mg/mL), nitric oxide (NO) production inhibitory (IC₅₀ = 62.68 μg/mL) activities, without causing toxicity to cells. A formulated lotion containing CEA (0.01–1.0% w/w) demonstrated stability over six heating–cooling cycles. A clinical study with 30 volunteers showed no skin irritation. The 1.0% w/w formulation (F4) improved skin hydration (+52.48%), reduced transepidermal water loss (−7.73%), and decreased melanin index (−9.10%) after 4 weeks of application. These findings suggest cocoa pod husk extract as a promising active ingredient for skin hydrating and lightening formulation. Nevertheless, further long-term studies are necessary to evaluate its efficacy in anti-aging treatments. Full article

Type 2 diabetes mellitus (T2DM) is a chronic metabolic disorder characterized by impaired glucose regulation. This study evaluated the antioxidant and antidiabetic potential of aqueous extracts from four plant species from the southern Algarve: Aristolochia baetica, Chelidonium majus, Dittrichia viscosa, and Lavandula viridis, using non-cellular in vitro assays. HPLC/PDA was used to identify active compounds. Antioxidant activity was assessed by using TAA, FRAP, RP, and DPPH assays; antidiabetic potential through α-glucosidase and α-amylase inhibition; and wound healing relevance through elastase, collagenase, and lipoxygenase inhibition. D. viscosa showed the highest antioxidant activity (FRAP: 1132.99 ± 19.54 mg TE/g dw; DPPH IC₅₀ = 25.85 ± 0.75 μg/mL) and total phenolic/flavonoid content, with a diverse profile including caffeic and chlorogenic acids, isoquercetin, and quercetin. It also exhibited potent α-glucosidase inhibition (IC₅₀ = 0.61 ± 0.06 mg/mL), outperforming acarbose. L. viridis had the highest total phenolic content (39.04 mg/g), while A. baetica demonstrated the strongest anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, and lipoxygenase activity, suggesting wound-healing potential. C. majus showed the weakest effects. A strong correlation was observed between phenolic content and antioxidant/antidiabetic activity. These findings support further in vivo studies on D. viscosa and A. baetica for potential use in T2DM management and diabetic wound healing. Full article

Hypericum hircinum L., commonly known as goat St. John’s wort or stinking tutsan, is a medicinal plant native to the Mediterranean basin and widespread across Europe and parts of the Middle East. It has a long history of traditional uses in folk medicine to treat respiratory diseases, wounds, and burns and to relieve migraine, rheumatism, and muscular pains. Despite numerous scientific studies shading light on the phytochemical profile and on the beneficial properties of the plant extracts, a comprehensive overview of the current knowledge is missing. In this paper, we summarized the available information on botany, traditional uses, phytochemistry, and pharmacological properties of Hypericum hircinum from peer-reviewed articles published till March 2025 in PubMed, ScienceDirect, Wiley, Springer, ACS, Scielo, and Web of Science databases. The presence of numerous valuable compounds, including terpenes, phenolic acids, flavonoids, and phloroglucinols, is reported as well as the wide range of pharmacological properties, such as antimicrobial, antifungal, antiviral, antidepressant, anti-collagenase, anti-α-glucosidase, and antioxidant activities, together with non-pharmacological properties. The data reported in this review contribute to a deeper understanding of the biological properties of the species and pave the way for further investigation of its potential applications. Full article

Background/Objectives: Conjugation techniques are increasingly valued in food chemistry for enhancing sensory properties, nutritional profiles, and bioactivity, with potential applications in cosmeceuticals. This study aimed to investigate the potential of Glycine max (L.) Merrill oligopeptide–monosaccharide conjugates as active ingredients in cosmeceuticals, emphasizing their biological activities and stability. Methods: G. max isolate was prepared and subsequently hydrolyzed using alcalase to obtain the oligopeptide (OP). The OP was then conjugated with allulose (AL) or mannose (MN) through a controlled humid-dry heating process to produce the conjugates, OPA and OPM, respectively. Their biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase properties, were assessed and compared to the individual components. Additionally, the irritation potential was evaluated using the hen’s egg test on chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM). The stability was examined under varying pH levels, temperatures, and light conditions based on their biological activity profiles. Results: OPA demonstrated the highest antioxidant activity, showing the lowest DPPH^• IC₅₀ value of 198.6 ± 2.7 µg/mL along with a strong ferric reducing power of 1.37 ± 0.04 µg FeSO₄/g sample. Besides, OPM showed superior tyrosinase inhibition on both L-tyrosine and L-DOPA substrates, highlighting its potential for skin whitening. Both OPA and OPM significantly enhanced collagenase inhibition, supporting their anti-aging potential. All samples were non-irritating in the HET-CAM test. The conjugates (OPA and OPM) demonstrated enhanced stability against pH, heat, and light compared to OP, AL, and MN. Conclusions: Oligopeptide–monosaccharide conjugation not only improved bioactivity but also enhanced biological stability, suggesting their potential for use in cosmeceutical applications. Full article

Tecoma stans belongs to the Bignoniaceae family and possesses various pharmacological activities, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant, and wound-healing activities. Although numerous studies have highlighted the beneficial effects of T. stans extracts, the impacts of different solvents on its biological activities, particularly its inhibitory effect on skin degradation enzymes (collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase assay), have not been reported. This study aims to explore the effects of different solvent extractions on the total phenolic and total flavonoid contents, antioxidant and anti-aging activities, and cytotoxicity. The most suitable extract was selected for incorporation into an anti-aging product. T. stans flowers were extracted using hexane, ethyl acetate, absolute ethanol, and deionized water through maceration. The aqueous extract yielded the highest extraction efficiency (40.73%), followed by absolute ethanol, ethyl acetate, and hexane. The phytochemical screening results revealed that all T. stans flower extracts contained phenolics, flavonoids, terpenoids, and alkaloids. Among the various solvents tested for T. stans flower extraction, absolute ethanol demonstrated the highest total phenolic content (24.10 ± 2.07 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g extract), followed by deionized water (20.83 ± 1.28 mg GAE/g extract). The highest total flavonoid content was observed in the ethyl acetate extract (205.11 ± 7.83 mg catechin equivalents (CE)/g extract), with ethanol showing a significantly lower concentration (140.67 ± 1.92 mg CE/g extract). In terms of antioxidant activity, the aqueous extract exhibited the most potent effects, with IC₅₀ values of 0.600 ± 0.005 mg/mL for the DPPH^• assay and 0.207 ± 0.001 mg/mL for the ABTS^•+ assay. For anti-aging assays, the absolute ethanolic extract demonstrated the highest enzyme inhibition activity at 1 mg/mL, with collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition rates of 89.49% ± 2.96%, 94.61% ± 2.33%, and 82.56% ± 2.27%, respectively. Moreover, at a concentration of 50 µg/mL, the absolute ethanolic extract exhibited lower cytotoxicity, with human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell viability of 78% ± 8.47%, which was significantly higher than that of the other extracts. An anti-aging gel containing 0.05% w/w of the ethanolic T. stans extract demonstrated physical and physicochemical stability during three months of storage at ambient temperatures, 4 °C, 45 °C, as well as after six cycles of heating/cooling tests. These findings suggest that the ethanolic extract of T. stans flower has potential as a safe and effective anti-aging agent for cosmeceutical products. Full article

Background: Melanin overproduction leads to pigmented skin diseases. Brown algae polyphenols, non-toxic secondary metabolites, exhibit potential bioactivities. Sargassum fusiforme, an edible seaweed, has been underexplored in the field of beauty despite its polyphenol richness. Methods: Polyphenols from S. fusiforme were extracted using macroporous resin (SFRP) and ethyl acetate (SFEP). Their antioxidant and anti-aging properties, tyrosinase inhibitory activities, and mechanisms were assessed. The melanogenesis inhibition effect and mechanism by SFRP was examined in B16F10 melanoma cells. Results: Both SFRP and SFEP demonstrated scavenging activities against DPPH, superoxide anion, and hydroxyl radicals. SFRP showed stronger anti-collagenase and anti-elastase effects. They dose-dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase, with IC50 values of 9.89 μg/mL for SFRP and 0.99 μg/mL for SFEP. SFRP reversibly inhibited tyrosinase, while SFEP showed irreversible inhibition. SFRP also suppressed melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 cells, downregulating the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related protein 1 and 2 expression through the PI3K/Akt and MAPK/ERK signal pathways. Conclusions: S. fusiforme polyphenols, especially SFRP, exhibit promising antioxidant, anti-aging, and melanogenesis inhibitory properties, highlighting their potential application as novel anti-melanogenic agents in cosmetics and the food industry. Full article

Skin grows old due to intrinsic factors, such as age and associated hormonal changes, and external factors, like solar radiation and chemical substances to which we are exposed. With age, skin shows thinning, laxity, pallor, increased dryness, and the appearance of wrinkles, attributed to a decrease in collagen and elastin produced by fibroblasts. Several theories explain skin aging, including the free radical formation, neuroendocrine, and mitochondrial decline theories. Based on a scientific understanding of skin behavior, different in vitro methods are used to evaluate the effects of new ingredients in cosmetics. Commonly used methods include anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity alongside techniques utilizing skin cells or 3D models. Although these methods are recognized and widely used, they lack standardization. In this review, a literature search has been conducted to examine the characteristics and variations of these methods across the laboratories. A key issue identified in this review is that many papers provide insufficient detail regarding their protocols. Moreover, the number of studies using cells is less significant than the ones determining enzyme inhibition. Our findings revealed that, in many cases, there is limited information available, underscoring the urgent need to initiate a comprehensive standardization process for the methodologies used to demonstrate anti-aging activity. Full article

Biotechnological active peptides are gaining interest in the cosmetics industry due to their antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-collagenase (ACE) effects, as well as wound healing properties, making them suitable for cosmetic formulations. The antimicrobial activity of peptides (2–10 kDa) secreted by Saccharomyces cerevisiae Ethanol-Red was evaluated against dermal pathogens using broth microdilution and challenge tests. ACE was assessed using a collagenase activity colorimetric assay, antioxidant activity via spectrophotometric monitoring of nitrotetrazolium blue chloride (NBT) reduction, and anti-inflammatory effects by quantifying TNF-α mRNA in lipopolysaccharides (LPS)-exposed dermal fibroblasts. Wound healing assays involved human fibroblasts, endothelial cells, and dermal keratinocytes. The peptides (2–10 kDa) exhibited antimicrobial activity against 10 dermal pathogens, with the Minimum Inhibitory Concentrations (MICs) ranging from 125 µg/mL for Staphylococcus aureus to 1000 µg/mL for Candida albicans and Streptococcus pyogenes. In the challenge test, peptides at their MICs reduced microbial counts significantly, fulfilling ISO 11930:2019 standards, except against Aspergillus brasiliensis. The peptides combined with Microcare^Ⓡ SB showed synergy, particularly against C. albicans and A. brasilensis. In vitro, the peptides inhibited collagenase activity by 41.8% and 94.5% at 250 and 1000 µg/mL, respectively, and demonstrated antioxidant capacity. Pre-incubation with peptides decreased TNF-α expression in fibroblasts, indicating anti-inflammatory effects. The peptides do not show to promote or inhibit the angiogenesis of endothelial cells, but are able to attenuate fibrosis, scar formation, and chronic inflammation during the final phases of the wound healing process. The peptides showed antimicrobial, antioxidant, ACE, and anti-inflammatory properties, highlighting their potential as multifunctional bioactive ingredients in skincare, warranting further optimization and exploration in cosmetic applications. Full article

Clostridium histolyticum is a Gram-positive anaerobic bacterium belonging to the Clostridium genus. It produces collagenase, an enzyme involved in breaking down collagen which is a key component of connective tissues. However, antimicrobial resistance (AMR) poses a great challenge in combating infections caused by this bacteria. The lengthy nature of traditional drug development techniques has resulted in a shift to computer-aided drug design and other modern drug discovery approaches. The above method offers a cost-effective means for gathering comprehensive information about how ligands interact with their target proteins. The objective of this study is to create novel, explicit drugs that specifically inhibit the C. histolyticum collagenase enzyme. Through structure-based virtual screening, a library containing 1830 compounds was screened to identify potential drug candidates against collagenase enzymes. Following that, molecular dynamic (MD) simulation was performed in an aqueous solution to evaluate the behavior of protein and ligand in a dynamic environment while density functional theory (DFT) analysis was executed to predict the molecular properties and structure of lead compounds, and the WaterSwap technique was utilized to obtain insights into the drug–protein interaction with water molecules. Furthermore, principal component analysis (PCA) was performed to reveal conformational changes, salt bridges to express electrostatic interaction and protein stability, and absorption, distribution, metabolism, excretion, and toxicity (ADMET) to assess the pharmacokinetics profile of top compounds and control molecules. Three potent drug candidates were identified MSID000001, MSID000002, MSID000003, and the control with a binding score of −10.7 kcal/mol, −9.8 kcal/mol, −9.5 kcal/mol, and −8 kcal/mol, respectively. Furthermore, Molecular Mechanics Poisson–Boltzmann Surface Area (MMPBSA) analysis of the simulation trajectories revealed energy scores of −79.54 kcal/mol, −73.99 kcal/mol, −62.26 kcal/mol, and −70.66 kcal/mol, correspondingly. The pharmacokinetics properties exhibited were under the acceptable range. The compounds hold the potential to be novel drugs; therefore, further investigation needs to be conducted to find out their anti-collagenase action against C. histolyticum infections and antibiotic resistance. Full article

The Eleutherine bulbosa bulb has been reported as a potent antioxidant in food. This work aims to extract the E. bulbosa bulb for use as an antioxidative agent in cosmetics. Water, 95% ethanol (EtOH), and propylene glycol (PG), which are normally used in cosmetic formulation, were employed as green and sustainable extraction solvents. EtOH and PG displayed better candidacy to extract active components from E. bulbosa bulbs than using water, and the mixture of EtOH and PG (EtOH/PG) resulted in the extract with higher bioactive compounds and biological activities compared with using EtOH or PG. The total phenolic content of the EtOH/PG extract was 87.60 ± 2.00 mgGAE/mL which was about an 18–23% increase from when using single EtOH or PG (70.91 ± 2.30, 74.05 ± 0.67 mgGAE/mL). UHPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analysis showed that the E. bulbosa bulb extracted in EtOH/PG was composed of naphthalenes, naphthoquinones, anthraquinones, myricetin, quercetin, epicatechin, catechin, epigallocatechin, and their derivatives. The ethanolic crude extract exhibited anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activity with the IC₅₀ of 7.76 ± 0.35 and 0.53 ± 0.23 mg/mL, respectively, and was non-cytotoxic to human dermal fibroblast cells at 0.0001–1 mg/mL. The emulsion cream containing 2%(w/w) E. bulbosa bulb concentrated extract was found cosmetically stable after a one-month stability test under 4 °C, ambient temperature (30–35 °C), 45 °C, fluorescent light, and daylight. However, exposure to sunlight during daytime caused changes in the emulsion’s color with ΔE* of 3.85 ± 0.08, and at 45 °C caused the 12% decrease in DPPH activity of emulsion. The finding of this work heightens the antioxidative and safety potentials of the E. bulbosa bulb in cosmetic preparations. Full article

Skin aging is an inevitable and intricate process instigated, among others, by oxidative stress. The search for natural sources that inhibit this mechanism is a promising approach to preventing skin aging. The purpose of our study was to evaluate the composition of phenolic compounds in the micellar extract of Phaseolus vulgaris sprouts. The results of a liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis revealed the presence of thirty-two constituents, including phenolic acids, flavanols, flavan-3-ols, flavanones, isoflavones, and other compounds. Subsequently, the extract was assessed for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-tyrosinase, and cytotoxic properties, as well as for the evaluation of collagen synthesis. It was demonstrated that micellar extract from common bean sprouts has strong anti-aging properties. The performed WST-8 (a water-soluble tetrazolium salt) assay revealed that selected concentrations of extract significantly increased proliferation of human dermal fibroblasts compared to the control cells in a dose-dependent manner. A similar tendency was observed with respect to collagen synthesis. Our results suggest that micellar extract from Phaseolus vulgaris sprouts can be considered a promising anti-aging compound for applications in cosmetic formulations. Full article

This study aimed to investigate the effects of elicitors on Vanda coerulea Griff. Ex Lindl. protocorms to enhance bioactive compound production and evaluate their biological activities relevant to cosmeceutical applications. The protocorms were developed from the callus treated with different elicitors, including 6-benzylaminopurine (BA), methyl jasmonate (MeJA), and chitosan. Both the adult plant and protocorms were extracted by maceration in 80% methanol and investigated for their chemical compositions using high-performance liquid chromatography. The extracts were evaluated for antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-tyrosinase activities. In addition, anti-inflammatory properties were assessed using a real-time polymerase chain reaction. The irritation potency was evaluated using the hen’s egg test-chorioallantoic membrane test. The findings revealed that protocorms treated with BA and chitosan developed a greener color, while those treated with MeJA exhibited a distinct darker coloration. Elicitation with BA and chitosan resulted in protocorms with comparable or higher levels of syringic acid, rutin, and quercin compared with the adult plant, with rutin being the most prominent identified compound. Furthermore, rutin was reported as the compound responsible for all biological activities. The chitosan-treated protocorm extract exhibited potent inhibition against oxidation, collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and inflammatory cytokines, along with a nonirritating effect, making it a promising candidate for cosmeceutical applications. Full article