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Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients
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Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients

A special issue of Molecules (ISSN 1420-3049). This special issue belongs to the section "Natural Products Chemistry".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 31 December 2025 | Viewed by 6409

Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Jing Wang

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
School of Chemical and Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
Interests: extraction and separation of bioactive substances
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Prof. Dr. Zhong Liu

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
College of Life Science and Technology, Jinan University, Guangzhou 510632, China
Interests: functional cosmetics; targeted drugs; inflammation and autoimmune diseases

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Cosmetics, initially associated with altering one’s appearance, have evolved beyond their traditional beauty role to encompass skin-care and the treatment of various skin conditions. With the rise in consumer preferences for novel ingredients with various bioactivities, researchers are actively exploring the development of functional molecules, including synthetic molecules, natural molecules and bio-derived molecules, and they are also exploring the skin-care and hair-care properties of these substances. Additionally, delivery systems of the functional molecules, such as liposomes, nanolipid, noisomes and other novel emulsions, have been investigated and proven to be more efficient than conventional formulations.

For this Special Issue, we invite researchers to provide original research articles that report on the development and production of novel functional molecules such as synthetic molecules, natural compounds, products from microorganisms, or substances derived from these sources for potential cosmetic applications. In addition, articles reporting on the encapsulation and delivery technologies of the functional molecules for cosmetic formulation applications can be also submitted. We also invite the submission of biological properties and clinical studies demonstrating skin or hair-care applications and the related molecule mechanisms of these functional ingredients. Review articles discussing the current state of the art in the field of functional molecules for cosmetic applications are also welcome.

Prof. Dr. Jing Wang
Prof. Dr. Zhong Liu
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Molecules is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2700 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • synthetic molecules
  • plant extracts
  • natural compounds
  • biotech-derived molecules
  • natural-derived molecules
  • fermentation-derived ingredients
  • biological activity
  • cosmetics
  • encapsulation and delivery technologies of ingredients
  • skin-care
  • hair-care

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Related Special Issue

Published Papers (6 papers)

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Research

18 pages, 2310 KiB  
Article
Kyoh® Rocket Leaf Extract Regulates Proliferation and VEGF and FGF7 Expression in Human Dermal Follicle Papilla Cells
by Adal Mena-García, Justyna M. Meissner, David Pajuelo, María Inés Morán-Valero, Ana Cristos, Marina Díez-Municio and Jose Luis Mullor
Molecules 2025, 30(7), 1489; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30071489 - 27 Mar 2025
Viewed by 290
Abstract
Androgenetic alopecia is the most common cause of hair loss for women and men. Current treatments for androgenetic alopecia, such as those based on drugs like Minoxidil, Finasteride, or Dutasteride, have been associated with a variety of side effects, such as irritation, contact [...] Read more.
Androgenetic alopecia is the most common cause of hair loss for women and men. Current treatments for androgenetic alopecia, such as those based on drugs like Minoxidil, Finasteride, or Dutasteride, have been associated with a variety of side effects, such as irritation, contact dermatitis, scalp pruritus, burning, etc. In this regard, plant extracts have emerged as promising alternatives to available chemical-based treatments for androgenetic alopecia given their efficacy, customer acceptability, and potentially minimized side effects. In this study, we evaluated the efficacy of Kyoh®, an extract from rocket leaves, as a treatment to improve the signs of androgenetic alopecia. We found that Kyoh® contained 2.1% total flavonoids, with kaempferol, quercetin, and isorhamnetin diglucosides being the most abundant. Additionally, Kyoh® showed a stimulating effect on the growth of human dermal follicle papilla cells in laboratory conditions. Most importantly, Kyoh® enhanced the gene expression of the hair growth-associated growth factors VEGF (Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor) and FGF7 (Fibroblast Growth Factor 7). Specifically, VEGF expression increased by 60.7% after 4 h and 267.3% after 24 h, while FGF7 expression increased by 50.3% after 4 h and 244.3% after 24 h, indicating both a rapid induction of gene expression and a sustained effect lasting at least one day. Moreover, Kyoh® increased the gene expression of NRF2 (Nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2) by 71.2%, which encodes for a protein participating in the antioxidant response. Overall, our study shows that flavonol-rich rocket extract (Kyoh®) is a promising treatment for promoting hair growth, demonstrated by its proliferation-promoting effect, potential antioxidant priming, and induction of the expression of growth factors associated with hair growth and health. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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12 pages, 4056 KiB  
Article
Performance and Mechanism of Hydrolyzed Keratin for Hair Photoaging Prevention
by Jiayi Fan, Lei Wu, Jing Wang, Xiaoying Bian, Chongchong Chen and Kuan Chang
Molecules 2025, 30(5), 1182; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30051182 - 6 Mar 2025
Viewed by 1052
Abstract
Photoaging is common and represents one of the primary pathways for hair damage in daily life. Hydrolyzed keratin, which is usually derived from wool and consists of a series of polypeptide molecules, has been investigated as a UV damage prevention ingredient for hair [...] Read more.
Photoaging is common and represents one of the primary pathways for hair damage in daily life. Hydrolyzed keratin, which is usually derived from wool and consists of a series of polypeptide molecules, has been investigated as a UV damage prevention ingredient for hair care. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and fluorescent penetration experiments verified that hydrolyzed keratin can deposit on the hair cuticles to form a film and partly penetrate into the hair cortex. This film played as a UV reducer and helped hair resist surface damage and maintain a sleek and healthy morphology after UV radiation. Surprisingly, it was found that hydrolyzed keratin treatment combined with subsequent UV radiation could significantly improve the tensile properties of hair. For hydrolyzed-keratin-treated hair, tensile strength was maintained after UV radiation, while, as a comparison, it decreased by 14.32% for untreated hair. This phenomenon is explained by a UV-induced degradation–penetration mechanism. During UV radiation, an increase in free amino acid content and conductivity was observed for the hydrolyzed keratin solution, demonstrating photodegradation into smaller peptides and amino acids. The degradation of hydrolyzed keratin allowed it to more easily enter the interior of the hair cortex, thereby enhancing its tensile properties by enhancing the chemical bonds. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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10 pages, 3189 KiB  
Article
Anti-Melanogenic Effects of L-Theanine on B16F10 Cells and Zebrafish
by Chih-Li Yu, Haiyue Pang, Zhao Run and Guey-Horng Wang
Molecules 2025, 30(4), 956; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30040956 - 19 Feb 2025
Viewed by 598
Abstract
L-Theanine, a natural amino acid found in green tea (Camellia sinensis) leaves, is known for its diverse psychotropic effects. This study aimed to evaluate the inhibitory effect of L-theanine on melanin production and uncover its regulatory mechanism. We evaluated the anti-melanogenic [...] Read more.
L-Theanine, a natural amino acid found in green tea (Camellia sinensis) leaves, is known for its diverse psychotropic effects. This study aimed to evaluate the inhibitory effect of L-theanine on melanin production and uncover its regulatory mechanism. We evaluated the anti-melanogenic activities of L-theanine in vitro and in vivo. In B16F10 murine melanoma cells induced by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone, melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity were determined, and melanogenesis-related protein expression and signaling pathways were analyzed by Western blotting. Melanin reduction was further assessed using the zebrafish (Danio rerio) test. L-Theanine reduced the intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content of B16F10 cells. It also attenuated the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins, such as microphthalmia- associated transcription factor, tyrosinase (TYR), TYR-related protein-1, and dopachrome tautomerase. L-Theanine modulated the protein kinase A (PKA), cAMP responder element binding protein (CREB), phosphorylation of/protein kinase B (Akt), glycogen synthase kinase-3β (GSK-3β), and β-catenin. The antimelanogenic activity of L-theanine (<2 mg/mL) was further confirmed using zebrafish larvae. L-Theanine inhibited melanogenesis by downregulating the PKA/CREB and Akt/GSK-3β/β-catenin signaling pathways. In summary, L-theanine shows potential as a skin-whitening compound, warranting further investigation for its possible applications in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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20 pages, 4493 KiB  
Article
Autophagy-Enhancing Properties of Hedyotis diffusa Extracts in HaCaT Keratinocytes: Potential as an Anti-Photoaging Cosmetic Ingredient
by Qiwen Zheng, Xiangji Jin, Trang Thi Minh Nguyen, Eun-Ji Yi, Se-Jig Park, Gyeong-Seon Yi, Su-Jin Yang and Tae-Hoo Yi
Molecules 2025, 30(2), 261; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30020261 - 10 Jan 2025
Viewed by 1037
Abstract
The decline in autophagy disrupts homeostasis in skin cells, leading to oxidative stress, energy deficiency, and inflammation—all key contributors to skin photoaging. Consequently, activating autophagy has become a focal strategy for delaying skin photoaging. Natural plants are rich in functional molecules and widely [...] Read more.
The decline in autophagy disrupts homeostasis in skin cells, leading to oxidative stress, energy deficiency, and inflammation—all key contributors to skin photoaging. Consequently, activating autophagy has become a focal strategy for delaying skin photoaging. Natural plants are rich in functional molecules and widely used in the development of anti-photoaging cosmetics. Hedyotis diffusa (HD), as a medicinal plant, is renowned for its anti-inflammatory and anticancer properties; however, its effects on skin photoaging remain unclear. This study investigates HD’s potential to counteract skin photoaging by restoring mitochondrial autophagy in keratinocytes. We used HPLC to detect the main chemical components in HD and, using a UVB-induced photoaging model in HaCaT keratinocytes, examined the effects of HD on reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels, Ca2+ concentration, mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP), apoptosis, and the cell cycle. Cellular respiration was further evaluated with the Seahorse XFp Analyzer, and RT-PCR and Western blotting were used to analyze the impact of HD on mitochondrial autophagy-related gene expression and signaling pathways. Our findings indicate that HD promotes autophagy by modulating the PI3K/AKT/mTOR and PINK/PARK2 pathways, which stabilizes mitochondrial quality, maintains MMP and Ca2+ balance, and reduces cytochrome c release. These effects relieve cell cycle arrest and prevent apoptosis associated with an increased BAX/BCL-2 ratio. Thus, HD holds promise as an effective anti-photoaging ingredient with potential applications in the development of cosmetic products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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13 pages, 2709 KiB  
Communication
Anti-Melanogenic Effects of Umbelliferone: In Vitro and Clinical Studies
by Da Jung Kim, Min Sook Jung, Hee Un Jin, Mi Sun Kim and Chae Eun An
Molecules 2024, 29(23), 5571; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29235571 - 25 Nov 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 857
Abstract
Melanin overexpression causes skin hyperpigmentation, which is associated with various skin disorders and cosmetic concerns. Umbelliferone, a natural coumarin found widely in plant species, has been noted for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects but has received little attention for its impact on melanogenesis. [...] Read more.
Melanin overexpression causes skin hyperpigmentation, which is associated with various skin disorders and cosmetic concerns. Umbelliferone, a natural coumarin found widely in plant species, has been noted for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects but has received little attention for its impact on melanogenesis. Here, the effects of umbelliferone on melanogenesis were investigated in vitro and in clinical studies. The results showed that umbelliferone was non-cytotoxic to human skin and B16F10 melanoma cells. It also exhibited significant anti-melanogenic effects, reducing both melanin production and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. This effect was achieved through a decrease in tyrosinase mRNA levels. Furthermore, umbelliferone in a formulation was stable under different temperature conditions, and after four weeks of topical application, it significantly decreased the melanin index and increased skin lightness (L*) values compared to those at the baseline. Overall, these findings demonstrate the potential of umbelliferone as a promising skin-lightening agent in the cosmetics industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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16 pages, 1642 KiB  
Article
Formulating Sustainable Emulsions: Mandelic Acid and Essential Oils as Natural Preservatives
by Jana Pavlačková, Pavlína Egner, Pavel Mokrejš and Magda Janalíková
Molecules 2024, 29(18), 4510; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29184510 - 23 Sep 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2137
Abstract
Emulsion products with natural antimicrobials are becoming increasingly popular for topical application. Mandelic Acid is interesting in cosmetics due to its potent exfoliating properties, which have driven advancements in skincare technologies. Essential oils have various properties, of which the most useful in cosmetics [...] Read more.
Emulsion products with natural antimicrobials are becoming increasingly popular for topical application. Mandelic Acid is interesting in cosmetics due to its potent exfoliating properties, which have driven advancements in skincare technologies. Essential oils have various properties, of which the most useful in cosmetics are those that do not cause irritation, smell pleasant, and have other beneficial properties such as antimicrobial effects. Emulsions with Mandelic Acid and essential oils from Satureja montana, Lemongrass, and Litsea cubeba were formulated and microbiologically tested for their preservative effectiveness. The effect of the treatments on skin condition was monitored by non-invasive diagnostic methods, such as hydration, transepidermal water loss, and pH value. Sensory analysis revealed that the matrix containing Mandelic Acid alone or combined with Litsea Cubeba Oil was the best-performing formulation, consistent with the compliant results of antimicrobial efficacy. The topical form of this cosmetic product has demonstrated excellent preservative activity and desirable biophysical efficacy on the skin. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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