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Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics

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A special issue of Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (ISSN 2077-1312). This special issue belongs to the section "Coastal Engineering".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 November 2021) | Viewed by 38900

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Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Felice D'Alessandro

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Guest Editor

Department of Environmental Science and Policy, University of Milan, 20122 Milan, Italy
Interests: coastal engineering; sediment transport processes; beach–dune system morphodynamics; innovative dune restoration methods against storm surge, flooding, and wind/wave induced erosion; wave–beach/structure–sediment interaction
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Prof. Dr. Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio

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Guest Editor

1. Department of Engineering, University of Salento, 73100 Lecce, Italy
2. EUMER - European Maritime & Environmental Research - Campus Ecotekne, 73100 Lecce, Italy
Interests: water wave mechanics; ocean wave statistics; extreme waves; sea storms; coastal engineering; breakwaters; beach morphodynamics; floating wind turbines
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Dr. Ferdinando Frega

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Guest Editor

Department of Civil Engineering, University of Calabria, 87100 Cosenza, Italy
Interests: coastal engineering; water wave mechanics; sediment transport processes; breakwaters; beach morphodynamics; sea level rise
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear colleagues,

Coastal dunes are known for their functions in ecological systems in addition to their aesthetic qualities, providing a unique habitat with high value through their biodiversity of flora and fauna. They also represent the delineation of the land to the sea and act as protective natural barrier against flooding due to storm surges and wave attack.

Beach–dune systems are highly dynamic features whose evolution is mainly governed through their mutual and complex exchange of sand by hydrodynamic and aeolian processes.

The sustainable and resilient conservation of beach–dune (eco)systems under a changing climate requires the insights of a number of multidisciplinary studies and approaches.

Towards this vision, this Special Issue is devoted to collecting original scientific contributions based on field observations, including novel remote sensing techniques, laboratory experiments, and/or numerical modelling. Papers focusing on the following topics are encouraged:

Wave–dune interaction processes and beach–dune vulnerability and resilience;
Innovative dune restoration methods and projects/pilot studies;
Aeolian process dynamics;
Novel remote sensing techniques to observe beach–dune evolution;
Wind/wave–vegetation–sand interaction;
Beach–dune biodiversity and ecological management;
Numerical modelling of beach–dune cross and longitudinal evolution;
Influence of soil properties on the mechanical strength related to hydrodynamic loadings;
Assessing beach–dune erosion and vulnerability under sea level rise;
Salt water intrusion in coastal aquifers.

Dr. Felice D'Alessandro
Prof. Dr. Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio
Dr. Ferdinando Frega
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

wave, wind, vegetation, and sand
beach–dune resilience
sustainable dune restoration
beach–dune biodiversity and ecology
climate change and sea level rise
beach–dune field surveys
coastal aquifers
field and laboratory experiments
numerical modelling

Published Papers (13 papers)

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Editorial

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5 pages, 191 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics

by Felice D’Alessandro, Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio and Ferdinando Frega

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(6), 802; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10060802 - 10 Jun 2022

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1293

Abstract

Coastal dunes are known for their functions in ecological systems in addition to their aesthetic qualities, providing a highly valuable and unique habitat of due to their biodiversity of flora and fauna [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

Research

Jump to: Editorial, Review

22 pages, 17048 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Dune Engineering Demand Parameter and Applications to Forecasting Dune Impacts

by Matthew S. Janssen and Jon K. Miller

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(2), 234; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10020234 - 9 Feb 2022

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 2109

Abstract

Breaching or overtopping of coastal dunes is associated with greater upland damages. Reliable tools are needed to efficiently assess the likelihood of dune erosion during storm events. Existing methods rely on numerical modeling (extensive investment) or insufficiently parameterize the system. To fill this gap, a fragility curve model using a newly developed dune Engineering Demand Parameter (EDP) is introduced. Conceptually, the EDP is similar to the Shield’s parameter in that it represents the ratio of mobilizing terms to stabilizing terms. Physically, the EDP is a measure of storm intensity over the dune’s resilience. To highlight potential applications, the proposed EDP fragility curve models are fit to a spatially and temporally robust dataset and used to predict dune response subjected to varying storm intensities including both extratropical and tropical storm. This approach allows for the probabilistic prediction of dune impacts through an innovative, computationally efficient model. Several different forms of the EDP are tested to determine the best schematization of the dune resilience. The final recommended EDP is the Peak Erosion Intensity (PEI) raised to the fourth power over the product of the dune volume and berm-width squared. Including both storm intensity and resilience terms in the EDP enables comparison of different beach configurations in different storm events fulfilling a need existing vulnerability assessors cannot currently account for directly. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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20 pages, 4335 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Beach and Dune Erosion: Causes and Interventions, Case Study: Kaulon Archaeological Site

by Giuseppe Barbaro, Giandomenico Foti, Giuseppina Chiara Barillà and Ferdinando Frega

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(1), 14; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10010014 - 24 Dec 2021

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 2891

Abstract

The dune systems are very important from an environmental, landscape, and coastal defense point of view within coastal areas. Currently, dune systems are significantly reduced compared to a few decades ago and, in Europe alone, dune systems have decreased by 70%. During the same period, intense beach erosion processes have often been observed, and, currently, 30% of the world’s coasts are eroding. These processes have various causes, both natural and anthropogenic, and the knowledge of the causes of the erosive processes are very important for an effective planning and management of coastal areas and to correctly plan any interventions on dunes and beaches. The paper, through a case study, analyzes the beach and dune erosive processes, their causes, and the possible interventions. The case study concerns the archaeological site of Kaulon, located on a dune in the Ionian coast of Calabria (Italy). The beach near the site was affected by erosive processes and during the winter of 2013–2014, the site was damaged by two sea storms. To identify the causes of these processes, three erosive factors were analyzed. These factors are anthropogenic pressure, wave climate and sea storms, and river transport. The effects produced by these factors were assessed in terms of shoreline changes and of damage to the beach–dune system, also evaluating the effectiveness of the defense interventions. The main causes of the erosive processes were identified through the cross analysis of erosive factors and their effects. This analysis highlighted that in the second half of the last century the erosive processes are mainly correlated to anthropogenic pressure while, recently, natural factors prevail, especially sea storms. Regarding the interventions, the effects produced by two interventions carried out during the winter of 2013–2014, one built in urgency between the first and second sea storm and the other built a few years after the second sea storm were analyzed. This analysis highlighted that the latter intervention was more effective in defending the site. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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34 pages, 10189 KiB

Open AccessFeature PaperArticle

A Numerical Study on the Impact of Building Dimensions on Airflow Patterns and Bed Morphology around Buildings at the Beach

by Paran Pourteimouri, Geert H. P. Campmans, Kathelijne M. Wijnberg and Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(1), 13; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10010013 - 24 Dec 2021

Cited by 12 | Viewed by 2711

Abstract

The attractiveness of beaches to people has led, in many places, to the construction of buildings at the beach–dune interface. Buildings change the local airflow patterns which, in turn, alter the sediment transport pathways and magnitudes. This induces erosion and deposition patterns around the structures. In this study, a numerical model is developed using the open-source computational fluid dynamics solver OpenFOAM. First, the model is used to predict the airflow patterns around a single rectangular building. The model predictions are validated with wind-tunnel data, which show good agreements. Second, a reference beach building is introduced and then the building dimensions are increased in length, width and height, each up to three times the reference building dimension. The impact of each dimensional extent on the near-surface airflow patterns is investigated. The results show that the near-surface airflow patterns are least dependent on the length of the building in the wind direction and they depend most on the width of the building perpendicular to the wind direction. Third, the convergence of the third-order horizontal near-surface velocity field is calculated to interpret the impact of changes in airflow patterns on potential erosion and deposition patterns around the building. The numerical predictions are compared with the observed erosion and sedimentation patterns around scale models in the field. The comparisons show satisfactory agreements between numerical results and field measurements. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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17 pages, 3459 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of Anthropogenic Pressures on Dune Systems—Case Study: Calabria (Italy)

by Giandomenico Foti, Giuseppe Barbaro, Giuseppina Chiara Barillà and Ferdinando Frega

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(1), 10; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10010010 - 23 Dec 2021

Cited by 13 | Viewed by 2625

Abstract

During the second half of the last century, considerable anthropization processes were observed throughout most of the Italian territory. These processes have altered the equilibrium conditions of several river and coastal ecosystems, causing the destruction of numerous dune systems. This issue is particularly important in territories such as Calabria, a region in southern Italy subject to considerable anthropogenic pressures and characterized by over 700 km of coast. The aim of the paper was to evaluate the effects of anthropogenic pressures on the Calabrian dune systems, especially in regard to the triggering of coastal erosion processes. For this purpose, historical and current cartographic data, such as shapefiles, cartography, and satellite imagery, were analyzed using QGIS. This evaluation was carried out through the comparison between the current extension of the dune systems and their extensions after the Second World War, before the anthropogenic pressures. This evaluation was also carried out through the analysis of shoreline changes in coastal areas, where dune systems are currently present, and in coastal areas where dune systems have been partially or totally destroyed by anthropogenic causes, compared to the 1950s, thus excluding coastal areas without dune systems in the 1950s, and analyzing what was built in place of the destroyed dune systems. Two criteria were defined to identify the levels of destruction of the dune systems and to identify the coastal erosion processes. The analysis showed a strong correlation between the destruction of dune systems by anthropogenic causes and the triggering of coastal erosion processes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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21 pages, 2611 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Role of Storm Erosion Potential and Beach Morphology in Controlling Dune Erosion

by Laura Lemke and Jon K. Miller

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9(12), 1428; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9121428 - 14 Dec 2021

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 2525

Abstract

Coastal erosion is controlled by two sets of factors, one related to storm intensity and the other related to a location’s vulnerability. This study investigated the role of each set in controlling dune erosion based on data compiled for eighteen historical events in New Jersey. Here, storm intensity was characterized by the Storm Erosion Index (SEI) and Peak Erosion Intensity (PEI), factors used to describe a storm’s cumulative erosion potential and maximum erosive power, respectively. In this study, a direct relationship between these parameters, beach morphology characteristics, and expected dune response was established through a classification tree ensemble. Of the seven input parameters, PEI was the most important, indicating that peak storm conditions with time scales on the order of hours were the most critical in predicting dune impacts. Results suggested that PEI, alone, was successful in distinguishing between storms most likely to result in no impacts (PEI < 69) and those likely to result in some (PEI > 102), regardless of beach condition. For intensities in between, where no consistent behavior was observed, beach conditions must be considered. Because of the propensity for beach conditions to change over short spatial scales, it is important to predict impacts on a local scale. This study established a model with the computational effectiveness to provide such predictions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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17 pages, 4784 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Use of Nanosilica for Increasing Dune Erosion Resistance during a Sea Storm

by Elisa Leone, Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Antonio Francone, Samuele De Bartolo, Davide Strafella, Felice D’Alessandro and Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9(6), 620; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9060620 - 3 Jun 2021

Cited by 9 | Viewed by 2354

Abstract

Dune recovery interventions that integrate natural, sustainable, and soft solutions have become increasingly popular in coastal communities. In the present study, the reliability of an innovative non-toxic colloidal silica-based solution for coastal sand dunes has been verified for the first time by means of laboratory experiments. An extensive experimental campaign aimed at studying the effectiveness of the use of nanosilica has been conducted in the 2D wave flume of the EUMER laboratory at the University of Salento (Italy). The study was first based on a horizontal seabed and then a cross-shore beach-dune profile was drawn similar to those generally observed in nature. Detailed measurements of wave characteristics and observed bed and cross-shore beach-dune profiles were analyzed for a wide range of wave conditions. In both cases, two sets of experiments were carried out. After the first set of experiments performed resembling the native conditions of the models composed with natural sand, the effects of the injection of the mineral colloidal silica-based grout were investigated. The observations show that mineral colloidal silica increases the mechanical strength of non-cohesive sediments reducing the volume of dune erosion, thus improving the resistance and longevity of the beach-dune system. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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27 pages, 7034 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Investigating Changes in Aeolian Sediment Transport at Coastal Dunes and Sand Trapping Fences: A Field Study on the German Coast

by Christiane Eichmanns and Holger Schüttrumpf

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(12), 1012; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8121012 - 10 Dec 2020

Cited by 9 | Viewed by 3497

Abstract

For the restoration and maintenance of beach and dune systems along the coast, knowledge of aeolian sediment transport and its interaction with coastal protection measures is required. As a nature-based solution, sand trapping fences can be an integral part of coastal protection measures initiating foredune development. There are few detailed studies on aeolian sediment transport rates on coastal dunes and sand trapping fences available to date. Thus, in this work, we present the results of field experiments conducted at the beach, coastal dune, and sand trapping fence on the East Frisian island Langeoog. The vertical sediment flux profile was measured by vertical mesh sand traps, and saltiphones measured the instantaneous sediment transport. A meteorological station was set up to obtain wind data. On the beach, dune toe, and dune crest, the stationary wind profile can be described well by the law of the wall. Saturated aeolian sediment transport rates on the beach and dune toe were predicted by widely used empirical models. Between the sand trapping fence, these empirical transport models could not be applied, as no logarithmic wind profile existed. The upwind sediment supply reduced after each brushwood line of the sand trapping fence, thereby, leading to increased deviation from the saturated conditions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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21 pages, 4838 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Application of an Empirical Dune Growth Model for Evaluating Barrier Island Recovery from Storms

by P. Soupy Dalyander, Rangley C. Mickey, Davina L. Passeri and Nathaniel G. Plant

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(12), 977; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8120977 - 1 Dec 2020

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 2088

Abstract

Coastal zone managers require models that predict barrier island change on decadal time scales to estimate coastal vulnerability, and plan habitat restoration and coastal protection projects. To meet these needs, methods must be available for predicting dune recovery as well as dune erosion. In the present study, an empirical dune growth model (EDGR) was developed to predict the evolution of the primary foredune of a barrier island. Within EDGR, an island is represented as a sum of Gaussian shape functions representing dunes, berms, and the underlying island form. The model evolves the foredune based on estimated terminal dune height and location inputs. EDGR was assessed against observed dune evolution along the western end of Dauphin Island, Alabama over the 10 years following Hurricane Katrina (2005). The root mean square error with EDGR (ranging from 0.18 to 0.74 m over the model domain) was reduced compared to an alternate no-change model (0.69–0.96 m). Hindcasting with EDGR also supports the study of dune evolution processes. At Dauphin Island, results suggest that a low-lying portion of the site was dominated by overwash for ~5 years after Katrina, before approaching their terminal height and becoming growth-limited after 2010. EDGR’s computational efficiency allows dune evolution to be rapidly predicted and enables ensemble predictions to constrain the uncertainty that may result if terminal dune characteristics are unknown. In addition, EDGR can be coupled with an external model for estimating dune erosion and/or the long-term evolution of other subaerial features to allow decadal-scale prediction of barrier island evolution. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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20 pages, 2006 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Predicting Morphodynamics for Beach Intertidal Systems in the North Sea: A Space-Time Stochastic Approach

by Patrick Bogaert, Anne-Lise Montreuil and Margaret Chen

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(11), 901; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8110901 - 11 Nov 2020

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 1818

Abstract

The ability to accurately predict beach morphodynamics is of primary interest for coastal scientists and managers. With this goal in mind, a stochastic model of a sandy macrotidal barred beach is developed that is based on cross-shore elevation profiles. Intertidal elevation was monitored from monthly to annually for 19 years through Real Time Kinematics-GPS (RTK-GPS) and LiDAR surveys, and monthly during two years with an RTK-GPS. In addition, during two campaigns of about two weeks, intensive surveys on a daily basis were performed with an RTK-GPS on a different set of profiles. Based on the measurements, space and time variograms are constructed in order to assess the spatial and temporal dependencies of these elevations. A separable space-time covariance model is then built from them in order to generate a large number of plausible future profiles at arbitrary time instants

t + τ

, starting from observed profiles at time instants t. For each simulation, the total displaced sand volume is computed and a distribution is obtained. The mean of this distribution is in good agreement with the total displaced sand volume measured on the profiles, provided that they are lower than 45 m

^{3}

/m. The time variogram also shows that 90% of maximum variability is reached for a time interval

τ

of three years. These results demonstrate how the temporal evolution of an integrated property, like the total displaced sand volume, can be estimated over time. This suggests that a similar stochastic approach could be useful for estimating other properties as long as one is able to capture the stochastic space-time variability of the underlying processes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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23 pages, 8777 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Sensitivity of Storm Response to Antecedent Topography in the XBeach Model

by Rangley C. Mickey, Patricia S. Dalyander, Robert McCall and Davina L. Passeri

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(10), 829; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8100829 - 21 Oct 2020

Cited by 7 | Viewed by 3076

Abstract

Antecedent topography is an important aspect of coastal morphology when studying and forecasting coastal change hazards. The uncertainty in morphologic response of storm-impact models and their use in short-term hazard forecasting and decadal forecasting is important to account for when considering a coupled model framework. This study provided a methodology to investigate uncertainty of profile response within the storm impact model XBeach related to varying antecedent topographies. A parameterized island Gaussian fit (PIGF) model generated an idealized baseline profile and a suite of idealized profiles that vary specific characteristics based on collated observed LiDAR data from Dauphin Island, AL, USA. Six synthetic storm scenarios were simulated on each of the idealized profiles with XBeach in both 1- and 2-dimensional setups and analyzed to determine the morphological response and uncertainty related to the varied antecedent topographies. Profile morphologic response tends to scale with storm magnitude but among the varied profiles there is greater uncertainty in profile response to the medium range storm scenarios than to the low and high magnitude storm scenarios. XBeach can be highly sensitive to morphologic thresholds, both antecedent and time-varying, especially with regards to beach slope. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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15 pages, 7098 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Application of the Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Wind Scale to Assess Sand Dune Response to Tropical Storms

by Jean T. Ellis, Michelle E. Harris, Mayra A. Román-Rivera, J. Brianna Ferguson, Peter A. Tereszkiewicz and Sean P. McGill

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(9), 670; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8090670 - 1 Sep 2020

Cited by 7 | Viewed by 5082

Abstract

Over one-third of the Earth’s population resides or works within 200 km of the coast. The increasing threat of coastal hazards with predicted climate change will impact many global citizens. Coastal dune systems serve as a natural first line of defense against rising sea levels and coastal storms. This study investigated the volumetric changes of two dune systems on Isle of Palms, South Carolina, USA prior to and following Hurricanes Irma (2017) and Florence (2018), which impacted the island as tropical storms with different characteristics. Irma had relatively high significant wave heights and precipitation, resulting in an average 39% volumetric dune loss. During Florence, a storm where precipitation was low and winds were moderate, net volumetric dune loss averaged 3%. The primary driving force causing dune change during Irma was water (precipitation and storm surge), and during Florence, it was wind (aeolian transport). We suggest that the application of the Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Wind Scale classifications should be reconsidered because different geomorphic responses were measured, despite Irma and Florence both being designated as tropical storms. Site-specific pre- and post-storm studies of the dune morphology and site-specific meteorological measurements of the storm (wind characteristics, storm surge, precipitation) are critically needed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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Review

Jump to: Editorial, Research

14 pages, 3150 KiB

Open AccessFeature PaperReview

Beach–Dune System Morphodynamics

by Felice D’Alessandro, Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio, Ferdinando Frega, Elisa Leone, Antonio Francone, Daniela Pantusa, Giuseppe Barbaro and Giandomenico Foti

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(5), 627; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10050627 - 5 May 2022

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 3707

Abstract

Beach–dune system morphodynamics is probably one of the most classical coastal engineering problems. While the topic has been studied extensively and literature is plentiful of considerable research contributions, from the authors’ knowledge the subject is still challenging for coastal and environmental sciences. As a part of the Special Issue entitled “Beach–dune system morphodynamics” of this Journal, the present paper reviews traditional issues and design advances building bridges between potential risks and adaptation measures. The benefits of nature-based and hybrid solutions and the need for multidisciplinary studies and approaches to promote sustainable and resilient conservation of the coastal environment are emphasized. Considering the importance and complexity of the subject, this work cannot be fully complete. It is limited to providing a general overview and outlining some important directions intending to serve as a springboard for further research in the field of beach–dune system morphodynamics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Beach-Dune System Morphodynamics)

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