Search Results (27)

Background: Epidemiological data link hard and chlorinated water to atopic dermatitis (AD), but experimental evidence on their effect and on dermocosmetic benefit remains limited. Objectives: We aimed to compare the effects of soft, hard, and chlorinated water on atopic skin and assess whether a dermocosmetic routine mitigates these effects. Methods: In a 3-day, open-label, intra-individual study, 66 adults with atopic skin underwent repeated forearm immersions (five cycles/day) in soft, hard, or chlorinated water. One forearm received a cleansing-oil and moisturising-balm routine after each cycle; the contralateral forearm served as untreated control. TEWL, hydration, and global discomfort were assessed. In a 21-day real-life study, adults with AD regularly exposed to hard domestic or swimming-pool water used the routine daily. Discomfort and quality of life were recorded. Results: Water immersion induced modest, inconsistent TEWL changes, increased hydration and slightly reduced discomfort, without differences between water types. The routine reduced TEWL, increased hydration, and decreased discomfort for all water types. In real life, it produced immediate and sustained improvements in discomfort and quality of life. Conclusions: Under controlled exposure, soft, hard, and chlorinated water exert comparable, limited effects on atopic skin. The dermocosmetic routine consistently improves barrier-related parameters and comfort, independently of water type. Full article

In this study, we examined the enhancement of erythritol production by the Yarrowia divulgata strain 1485. Although erythritol fermentation has been thoroughly investigated in earlier studies, the influence of inoculum ratio has not been comprehensively addressed. Therefore, this parameter was selected as the focus of the present work. Since industrial-scale erythritol production is typically carried out using more efficient fungal strains, further improvements in economic viability are primarily expected through integration with other biotechnological processes, allowing the simultaneous generation of multiple valuable products. To this end, the erythritol fermentation was coupled with microbial pigment production, and the potential recovery of additional compounds—such as biodetergents and cosmetic ingredients—were also explored. Based on the results, the fermentation with a 15% inoculation rate appears to be the most effective, producing 67.9 ± 6.0 g/L of erythritol, and 61.81 ± 0.02 mg/L of pigment was successfully extracted at the end of the pigment fermentation. The cells seem capable of increasing the skin’s moisturizing effect according to our preliminary tests when glass bead cell disruption is used, and the emulsifier has also proven to be effective, maintaining an emulsification index (EI) above 50% even after 24 h. When performing a kinetic model, we found that the measured data matched the model predictions and confirmed optimal inoculation size (15%), providing a solid basis for subsequent techno-economic analysis. The integration of the two basic fermentations (erythritol and pigment) is therefore considered successful, and the Yarrowia divulgata strain appears to have great biotechnological potential. Full article

Synthetic surfactants are currently the most commonly used agents in human cosmetics and household chemicals. However, there are increasingly frequent reports of cases showing the negative impact of these surfactants on human skin. Out of concern for users, many companies, including those originating in the automotive chemicals industry, are increasingly turning to surfactants that are more dermatologically friendly and non-toxic to the environment. The following study aimed to examine two custom-developed car shampoo concentrates based on highly biodegradable raw materials and to analyse their impact on selected skin parameters. The research included semi-contact patch tests and in vivo instrumental tests on a group of volunteers, measuring the following parameters: skin moisturising, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), pH, roughness, smoothness, and skin scaliness. Both products showed very good dermatological tolerance, without causing drastic or long-lasting changes in selected skin parameters. The results of the tests confirmed that both car products can represent a safe alternative for everyday use, in accordance with the principles of green chemistry. Full article

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with microbial dysbiosis and impaired skin barrier function. Topical therapies, such as moisturisers and antimicrobial fragrance compounds, may modulate the skin microbiome and support disease management. The objective was to evaluate how a moisturiser and a fragrance compound (farnesol) influence skin microbiome composition in individuals with AD and healthy controls. In a randomised, controlled, operator-blinded study, 15 AD patients and 15 healthy controls applied a moisturiser, farnesol, moisturiser + farnesol, or no treatment to defined skin areas over 7 days. Microbiome composition, alpha/beta diversity, and core taxa were analysed using shotgun metagenomics. At baseline, AD patients exhibited distinct microbial profiles, including elevated Staphylococcus aureus and Micrococcus luteus. Neither moisturiser nor farnesol significantly altered richness, beta diversity, or core taxa in either AD patients or controls. However, moisturiser use in healthy individuals modestly increased Shannon diversity, reflecting improved microbial evenness. Despite clear microbiome differences between AD and healthy skin, short-term topical treatment did not markedly shift microbial composition. The observed stability underscores the resilience of the skin microbiome and suggests that longer interventions or more targeted formulations may be necessary to influence microbial dysbiosis in AD. Full article

Collagen is an essential ingredient in dietary supplements for its anti-ageing benefits, and l-cystine-based supplementation has garnered interest for its ability to improve skin condition. Our study aimed to evaluate the effects of oral supplementation combining l-cystine and fish collagen peptides at two different dosages on mature (55–65 years) and young (18–30 years) skin types. Two randomised, three-arm, double-blind, placebo-controlled trials were conducted. A total of 198 Asian women were allocated into equal groups (5.5 or 11 g of active supplement or placebo daily for 12 weeks). In the Young panel, global aesthetic improvement, cutaneous pigmentation homogeneity, texture, redness, acne scars, and UV sensitivity were investigated. In the Mature panel, complexion radiance, crow’s feet, cutaneous thickness, moisturising, pigmentation homogeneity, texture, and skin colour were investigated. In mature women, the most notable improvements after 12 weeks were hydration, cutaneous thickness, and wrinkles. In younger women, improvements in cutaneous texture, reduced skin redness, and increased UV photoprotection were the most notable effects. Oral administration of the dietary supplement containing l-cystine and collagen peptides was perfectly well tolerated. In addition to the already known benefits for mature skin, this supplementation could also benefit younger people with skin imperfections. Full article

Technological advancements, shifting consumer preferences, and societal changes drive the cosmetics industry to evolve continuously. The cosmetics industry is experiencing a renaissance, with new ingredients that are more environmentally friendly, natural, and transparent in terms of sourcing and manufacturing and, last but not least, which are also multifunctional. The use of technology in cosmetics has been rising, including AI (artificial intelligence) and AR (augmented reality) for virtual try-ons, skin analysis tools, and smart beauty devices that provide at-home skincare treatments. Meanwhile, fermented cosmetic ingredients are becoming increasingly popular in the beauty industry due to their improved efficacy and skin benefits. The benefits include enhanced absorption, improved stability (due to the self-produced preservatives), microbiome-friendliness (supporting the skin’s microbiome), and anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. The most common cosmetic ingredients produced by microorganisms are fermented rice, soy, green tea, fruits, and vegetables. Our laboratory investigates a mineral rock called alginite, which has shown many benefits in other fields, such as agriculture and cosmetics (e.g., as a facemask). It has been proven that alginite combined with LAB (lactic acid-producing bacteria) probiotics is beneficial for health and can increase biomass production. However, cell lysates with alginite have never been investigated for cosmetic purposes. This study aimed to investigate the potential of alginite, a mineral rock, in enhancing the cosmetic properties of LAB lysates, specifically focusing on antioxidant effects, skin-whitening properties, and, in preliminary tests, skin-moisturising effects. LAB strains were cultured with and without alginite, and the resulting cell lysates were analysed for these cosmetic applications. The preliminary results suggested that alginite may boost the hydrating effect of LAB lysate, increasing it tenfold compared to LAB lysate alone. The antioxidant effect was enhanced fivefold in the case of Lactobacillus acidophilus when cultured with alginite. However, no significant effect was observed on mushroom tyrosinase inhibition, suggesting no impact on pigment formation. Further research is needed to fully understand the mechanisms underlying these effects and to explore potential applications in cosmetic formulations. Limitations of this study include the focus on specific LAB strains and the need for in vivo studies to confirm the observed effects on human skin. Full article

Cannabidiol (CBD), a non-psychoactive phytocannabinoid derived from Cannabis sativa L., has emerged as a promising multifunctional agent in dermatology and cosmetic science. The review provides an updated synthesis of CBD’s topical therapeutic potential, challenges, and evolving regulatory frameworks. CBD exhibits diverse biological effects, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, analgesic, lipostatic, antiproliferative, moisturising, and anti-ageing properties through interactions with the skin’s endocannabinoid system (ECS), modulating CB1, CB2, TRPV channels, and PPARs. Preclinical and clinical evidence support its efficacy in managing acne, psoriasis (including scalp psoriasis), atopic and seborrheic dermatitis, and allergic contact dermatitis. CBD also relieves pruritus through neuroimmune modulation and promotes wound healing in conditions such as pyoderma gangrenosum and epidermolysis bullosa. In hair disorders such as androgenetic alopecia, it aids follicular regeneration. CBD shows promise in managing skin cancers (melanoma, squamous cell carcinoma, Kaposi sarcoma) and pigmentation disorders such as melasma and vitiligo. It enhances skin rejuvenation by reducing oxidative stress and boosting collagen and hydration. However, there are challenges regarding CBD’s physicochemical stability, skin penetration, and regulatory standardisation. As consumer demand for natural, multifunctional skincare grows, further research is essential to validate its long-term safety, efficacy, and optimal formulation strategies. Full article

In response to the growing interest in natural cosmetic raw materials with antioxidant and moisturising properties, this study focuses on the use of dandelion leaves (Taraxaci folium) in the co-fermentation process involving selected strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Lactobacillus rhamnosus MI-0272. The aim of the study was to develop an innovative method of co-fermentation of dandelion leaves using waste beet molasses and organic cane biomolasses as substrates to produce lactic acid (LA), which is the main component of fermented cosmetic raw materials (FCRMs). The scope of the research included the determination of antioxidant activity using the DPPH (AA-DPPH) and ORAC (AA-ORAC) methods, determination of total polyphenol content (TPC) using the Folin–Ciocalteu method, assessment of lipophilicity by measuring the log P partition coefficient, assessment of wettability (contact angle), and statistical analysis. The key results indicated that the developed method allows for up to a fivefold reduction in fermentation time, enabling the production of FCRMs with the highest antioxidant activity (AA-DPPH = 3.0 ± 0.1 mmol Tx/L (Trolox equivalents per litre); AA-ORAC = 0.55 ± 0.02 mmol Tx/L) and the highest polyphenol content (TPC = 3589 ± 25 mg gallic acid equivalents per litre (GA/L)), with LA content (determined by GC-MS) up to 37 g/L. In addition, the analysis of the relationship between lipophilicity and membrane wettability showed that the hydrophilic antioxidants contained in FCRMs (log P = −0.9) can accumulate in the aqueous layers of the epidermis, suggesting their potential local protective and antioxidant effects. The results obtained confirm the potential of the developed technology in the production of modern cosmetic raw materials with antioxidant properties. Further research should include qualitative and quantitative analysis of phenolic acids contained in FCRMs and evaluation of the effectiveness of cosmetic preparations containing FCRMs in vivo. Full article

The growing demand for natural and sustainable skincare products has driven interest in plant-based active ingredients, especially from in vitro cultures. This placebo-controlled study investigated the impact of a facial cream containing 2% Kickxia elatine (L.) Dumort cell suspension culture extract on various skin biophysical parameters. The cream was applied to the cheek once daily for six weeks on 40 healthy female volunteers between the ages of 40 to 49. The evaluated skin parameters including skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema intensity (EI), melanin intensity (MI), skin surface pH, and skin structure, wrinkle depth, vascular lesions, and vascular discolouration. The results indicated that significant improvements were observed in skin hydration (from 40.36 to 63.00 AU, p < 0.001) and there was a decrease in TEWL score (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001), while the skin surface pH was maintained (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001). Moreover, the K. elatine cell extract significantly improved skin structure values (9.23 to 8.50, p = 0.028), reduced vascular lesions (2.72 to 1.54 mm², p = 0.011), and lowered skin discolouration (20.98% to 14.84%, p < 0.001), indicating its moisturising, protective, brightening, and soothing properties. These findings support the potential use of K. elatine cell extract in dermocosmetic formulations targeting dry, sensitive, or ageing skin. Full article

Olive mills produce pomace as a by-product of olive oil production process, which has a negative environmental impact. In this study, the dry extract of pomace (OG2), rich in polyphenols, was used for cosmetic purposes. The polyphenolic extract was encapsulated together with sh-oligopeptide-1 using cellulose fibres by spray-drying technology. Cytotoxicity and antistress cell studies were carried out using a modified cell line (THP1). Based on the results, a single, randomised, self-controlled study was conducted to evaluate the cream in thirty healthy volunteers. Statistical analysis was performed using a paired samples t-test. Skin moisture increased in the treated forearm (p-value < 0.000). There was an increase in elasticity in the treated forearm (p-value 0.042). TEWL decreased after one week of cream application (p-value 0.099). The results of this clinical study showed that the cream improved barrier function after one week of application on healthy skin. Full article

Skin ageing is influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, with excessive ultraviolet (UV) exposure being a significant contributor. Such exposure can lead to moisture loss, sagging, increased wrinkling, and decreased skin elasticity. Prolonged UV exposure negatively impacts the extracellular matrix by reducing collagen, hyaluronic acid, and aquaporin 3 (AQP-3) levels. Fermentation, which involves microorganisms, can produce and transform beneficial substances for human health. Natural product fermentation using lactic acid bacteria have demonstrated antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, whitening, and anti-wrinkle properties. Snowberry, traditionally used as an antiemetic, purgative, and anti-inflammatory agent, is now also used as an immune stimulant and for treating digestive disorders and colds. However, research on the skin benefits of Fermented Snowberry Extracts remains limited. Thus, we aimed to evaluate the skin benefits of snowberry by investigating its moisturising and anti-wrinkle effects, comparing extracts from different parts of the snowberry plant with those subjected to fermentation using Lactobacillus plantarum. Chlorophyll-free extracts were prepared from various parts of the snowberry plant, and ferments were created using Lactobacillus plantarum. The extracts and ferments were analysed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to determine and compare their chemical compositions. Moisturising and anti-ageing tests were conducted to assess the efficacy of the extracts and ferments on the skin. The gallic acid content remained unchanged across all parts of the snowberry before and after fermentation. However, Fermented Snowberry Leaf Extracts exhibited a slight decrease in chlorogenic acid content but a significant increase in ferulic acid content. The Fermented Snowberry Fruit Extract demonstrated increased chlorogenic acid and a notable rise in ferulic acid compared to its non-fermented counterpart. Skin efficacy tests revealed that Fermented Snowberry Leaf and Fruit Extracts enhanced the expression of AQP-3, HAS-3, and COL1A1. These extracts exhibited distinct phenolic component profiles, indicating potential skin benefits such as improved moisture retention and protection against ageing. These findings suggest that Fermented Snowberry Extracts could be developed into effective skincare products, providing a natural alternative for enhancing skin hydration and reducing signs of ageing. Full article

Known for its stimulating effects on the nervous and cardiovascular systems, caffeine has proven remarkable versatile properties. It can be used in a wide range of different products, from anti-aging cosmetics to the pharmaceutical treatment of hair loss. Caffeine is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly found in moisturising creams recommended as anti-aging or anti-cellulite and also for the treatment of different skin disorders, including androgenic alopecia. This bioactive is also described to be able to enhance the sunscreen scattering effect of well-known ultraviolet (UV) blockers. One of the major challenges remains its penetration capacity into deeper skin layers, which may be achieved by the use of nanosized delivery systems, yet without the risk of transdermal delivery. In this review, we discuss the nutraceutical value of caffeine in cosmetic products, so-called nutricosmetics, which grants this bioactive several advantages in several formulations, in comparison to other potential bioactives of nutricosmetic value. Furthermore, the disclosed effects of bioactives commonly found in coffee, tea, and their by-products are reviewed and discussed. The discussion concludes by highlighting the significant benefits of caffeine in the treatment of skin disorders and its potential to enhance and promote skin health. Full article

Poly-γ-glutamic acid (γ-PGA) is a carboxylic-acid-rich, bio-derived, water-soluble, edible, hydrating, non-immunogenic polymer produced naturally by several microorganisms. Here, we re-emphasise the ability of Bacillus subtilis natto to naturally produce γ-PGA on whole seaweed, as well as for the yields and chemical properties of the material to be affected by the presence of Mn⁽²⁺⁾. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an extracellular glycosaminoglycan which presents a high concentration of carboxylic acid and hydroxyl groups, being key in fulfilling numerous applications. Currently, there are strong environmental (solvent use), social (non-vegan extraction), and economic factors pushing for the biosynthesis of this material through prokaryotic microorganisms, which is not yet scalable or sustainable. Our study aimed to investigate an innovative raw material which can combine both superior hygroscopicity and UV protection to the cosmetic industry. Comparable hydration effect of commercially available γ-PGA to conventional moisturising agents (HA and glycerol) was observed; however, greater hydration capacity was observed from seaweed-derived γ-PGA. Herewith, successful incorporation of seaweed-derived γ-PGA (0.2–2 w/v%) was achieved for several model cream systems with absorbances reported at 300 and 400 nm. All γ-PGA-based creams displayed shear thinning behaviour as the viscosity decreased, following increasing shear rates. Although the use of commercial γ-PGA within creams did not suggest a significant effect in rheological behaviour, this was confirmed to be a result of the similar molecular weight. Seaweed-derived γ-PGA cream systems did not display any negative effect on model HaCaT keratinocytes by means of in vitro MTT analysis. Full article

Atopic dermatitis (AD)/atopic eczema is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease affecting nearly 14% of the adult population. An important pathogenetic pillar in AD is the disrupted skin barrier function (SBF). The atopic stratum corneum (SC) has been examined using several methods, including Raman microspectroscopy, yet so far, there is no depth-dependent analysis over the entire SC thickness. Therefore, we recruited 21 AD patients (9 female, 12 male) and compared the lesional (LAS) with non-lesional atopic skin (nLAS) in vivo with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Our results demonstrated decreased total intercellular lipid and carotenoid concentrations, as well as a shift towards decreased orthorhombic lateral lipid organisation in LAS. Further, we observed a lower concentration of natural moisturising factor (NMF) and a trend towards increased strongly bound and decreased weakly bound water in LAS. Finally, LAS showed an altered secondary and tertiary keratin structure, demonstrating a more folded keratin state than nLAS. The obtained results are discussed in comparison with healthy skin and yield detailed insights into the atopic SC structure. LAS clearly shows molecular alterations at certain SC depths compared with nLAS which imply a reduced SBF. A thorough understanding of these alterations provides useful information on the aetiology of AD and for the development/control of targeted topical therapies. Full article

The growing population has intensified food processing, increasing the generation of agro-industrial waste. This waste is rich in bioactive compounds; therefore, it can be valorised by extracting their compounds of biological interest and incorporating them into cosmetic products. In this work, an extract was obtained from kiwi peels and characterised regarding its biological properties and phenolic composition. Results demonstrated that the extract presented antioxidant activity against DPPH and ABTS radicals (IC₅₀ values of 244 mg/L and 58 mg/L, respectively) and antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. Catechin and epicatechin (flavonoids), as well as chlorogenic acid (phenolic acid), were the main phenolic compounds identified. Subsequently, the kiwi peel extract was incorporated into cosmetic formulations and their antioxidant properties and stability were evaluated. An increase in the antioxidant activity of the moisturising cream was observed upon the extract’s addition. Also, no microorganisms were present in any formulation prepared, attesting to their microbial safety. Finally, the results from the stability analysis revealed that the moisturising creams remained relatively stable for two weeks. These findings suggest that extracts from kiwi peels have the potential to be used as natural additives to produce value-added cosmetic products in a more sustainable manner. Full article