Next Article in Journal
Preparation of Innovative Skin Compatible Films to Release Polysaccharides for Biobased Beauty Masks
Previous Article in Journal
Seaweeds as Source of Bioactive Substances and Skin Care Therapy—Cosmeceuticals, Algotheraphy, and Thalassotherapy
Article Menu

Export Article

Open AccessArticle
Cosmetics 2018, 5(4), 69; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5040069

Enzyme-Catalysed Conversion of Atranol and Derivatives into Dimeric Hydrosoluble Materials: Application to the Preparation of a Low-Atranol Oakmoss Absolute

Institut de Chimie de Nice, Université Cote d’Azur, CNRS, Parc Valrose, 06108 Nice CEDEX 2, France
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Received: 2 November 2018 / Revised: 15 November 2018 / Accepted: 19 November 2018 / Published: 22 November 2018
Full-Text   |   PDF [886 KB, uploaded 22 November 2018]   |  

Abstract

Oakmoss absolute, a solvent extract from Evernia prunastri, is a valuable fragrance ingredient widely used in fine fragrance for almost two centuries. Some minor components of oakmoss absolute, such as atranol and chloroatranol, are attested contact allergens and their presence in fragrance and cosmetic products should be as low as possible. In this context, we have developed an enzyme-based protocol upon which these undesirable molecules are converted in a hydrosoluble dimeric material, and thus easily separated from the absolute by liquid–liquid extraction. Analytical and sensory analyses were performed to confirm the specificity of the process, the absence of alteration of the olfactory quality of the absolute, and the final titles of atranol and chloroatranol, which eventually were observed in the ppm range. This highly sustainable process is a viable alternative to conventional time-, energy-, and manpower-consuming techniques to produce very low-atranol oakmoss absolute. View Full-Text
Keywords: lichen extract; perfumery; peroxidase; IFRA compliance; sustainable chemistry; fragrance ingredients lichen extract; perfumery; peroxidase; IFRA compliance; sustainable chemistry; fragrance ingredients
Figures

Figure 1

This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited (CC BY 4.0).

Supplementary material

SciFeed

Share & Cite This Article

MDPI and ACS Style

Bouges, H.; Monchot, A.; Antoniotti, S. Enzyme-Catalysed Conversion of Atranol and Derivatives into Dimeric Hydrosoluble Materials: Application to the Preparation of a Low-Atranol Oakmoss Absolute. Cosmetics 2018, 5, 69.

Show more citation formats Show less citations formats

Note that from the first issue of 2016, MDPI journals use article numbers instead of page numbers. See further details here.

Article Metrics

Article Access Statistics

1

Comments

[Return to top]
Cosmetics EISSN 2079-9284 Published by MDPI AG, Basel, Switzerland RSS E-Mail Table of Contents Alert
Back to Top