Next Article in Journal
Preparation of Innovative Skin Compatible Films to Release Polysaccharides for Biobased Beauty Masks
Previous Article in Journal
Seaweeds as Source of Bioactive Substances and Skin Care Therapy—Cosmeceuticals, Algotheraphy, and Thalassotherapy
Open AccessArticle

Enzyme-Catalysed Conversion of Atranol and Derivatives into Dimeric Hydrosoluble Materials: Application to the Preparation of a Low-Atranol Oakmoss Absolute

Institut de Chimie de Nice, Université Cote d’Azur, CNRS, Parc Valrose, 06108 Nice CEDEX 2, France
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Cosmetics 2018, 5(4), 69; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5040069
Received: 2 November 2018 / Revised: 15 November 2018 / Accepted: 19 November 2018 / Published: 22 November 2018
Oakmoss absolute, a solvent extract from Evernia prunastri, is a valuable fragrance ingredient widely used in fine fragrance for almost two centuries. Some minor components of oakmoss absolute, such as atranol and chloroatranol, are attested contact allergens and their presence in fragrance and cosmetic products should be as low as possible. In this context, we have developed an enzyme-based protocol upon which these undesirable molecules are converted in a hydrosoluble dimeric material, and thus easily separated from the absolute by liquid–liquid extraction. Analytical and sensory analyses were performed to confirm the specificity of the process, the absence of alteration of the olfactory quality of the absolute, and the final titles of atranol and chloroatranol, which eventually were observed in the ppm range. This highly sustainable process is a viable alternative to conventional time-, energy-, and manpower-consuming techniques to produce very low-atranol oakmoss absolute. View Full-Text
Keywords: lichen extract; perfumery; peroxidase; IFRA compliance; sustainable chemistry; fragrance ingredients lichen extract; perfumery; peroxidase; IFRA compliance; sustainable chemistry; fragrance ingredients
Show Figures

Figure 1

MDPI and ACS Style

Bouges, H.; Monchot, A.; Antoniotti, S. Enzyme-Catalysed Conversion of Atranol and Derivatives into Dimeric Hydrosoluble Materials: Application to the Preparation of a Low-Atranol Oakmoss Absolute. Cosmetics 2018, 5, 69.

Show more citation formats Show less citations formats
Note that from the first issue of 2016, MDPI journals use article numbers instead of page numbers. See further details here.

Article Access Map

1
Back to TopTop