Search Results (116)

The essential oil (EO) of Mentha spicata L. (spearmint) exhibits pronounced biological activity, making it valuable for applications in agrochemistry as an insecticidal agent, in perfumery and cosmetics, and as a natural preservative in the food industry. However, maintaining the integrity and yield of EO during post-harvest processing and extraction remains a key technological challenge. This study aimed to enhance the vacuum-drying (VD) process of spearmint using calcium chloride as a desiccant and to optimize the conditions of supercritical CO₂ extraction (SC-CO₂), including EO separation and the evaluation of its solubility under dynamic extraction conditions. The incorporation of calcium chloride into the VD process reduced drying duration by 21.1% and processing costs by 31.0%, while increasing EO yield by 11%. A decrease in separator pressure from 70 to 10 bar during SC-CO₂ extraction resulted in nearly a threefold increase in EO yield by minimizing the loss of volatile constituents. The solubility of spearmint EO in supercritical CO₂ was successfully described by the Chrastil model and correlated with carvone solubility. The maximum total phenolic content (72.3 ± 2.2 mg gallic acid equivalent per gram) was observed at a CO₂ density of 353.91 kg/m³. The solubility of EO was studied directly using the plant matrix under dynamic conditions. Full article

Background: Lavandula (Lamiaceae) includes numerous species, cultivars, and hybrids widely cultivated for both their ornamental traits and for functional uses in perfumery, nutrition, medicinal, and cosmetic applications. Objectives: This study characterized the phytochemical profiles of three species (Lavandula stoechas L., Lavandula latifolia Medik., and Lavandula angustifolia Mill.), two cultivars (L. stoechas ‘Alba’ L. and L. angustifolia ‘Krajova’ Mill.), and the interspecific hybrid Lavandula × intermedia ‘Alba’ Emeric ex Loisel. Methods: All grown species and cultivars were maintained under uniform environmental and harvested simultaneously, to provide a comparative assessment of their terpene and polyphenol profiles and content, as well as their associated antioxidant activity. Results: HPLC-DAD/QTOF-MS analysis revealed differences in flavonoid and hydroxycinnamic acid content among species and cultivars. The main compounds identified were glycosylated derivatives of coumaric, caffeic, and ferulic acids, along with luteolin and apigenin derivatives. L. latifolia Medik. exhibited the highest hydroxycinnamic acid content (5.306 ± 1.265 mg/g FW), whereas L. stoechas ‘Alba’ L. showed the highest flavonoid concentration (2.537 ± 0.192 mg/g FW). GC-MS analysis indicated that hydrocarbon and oxygenated monoterpenes were the predominant terpene classes, with the highest levels recorded in L. stoechas L. (1922.09 ± 144.12 ng/g FW oxygenated; 945.89 ± 159.26 ng/g FW hydrocarbon monoterpenes). Antioxidant activity, assessed via DPPH and FRAP assays, was significantly correlated with flavonoid content across species, cultivars, and the hybrid. Conclusions: Intraspecific and interspecific variability within the Lavandula genus influences antioxidant activity and determines its suitability for different applications. Full article

In modern business conditions, where competitiveness is evident across all operational segments, it is necessary to adopt a proactive management approach, i.e., to actively manage business performance. To keep pace with evolving trends and technologies, a daily presence on social networks and an adequate level of product promotion are necessary. This paper proposes a Fuzzy MCDM (Multi-Criteria Decision-Making) model to define the future direction of a perfumery regarding the application of digital marketing, using a two-phase group decision-making process. A total of ten digital advertising variants were considered, combining five social networks: Facebook, Instagram, TikTok, YouTube, and Threads. The results obtained through the application of the original Fuzzy MCDM model indicate that companies should focus their efforts on promoting designer and oriental perfumes via Facebook, Instagram, and TikTok in order to enhance growth and potentially expand their business operations. Full article

This article introduces the Olfactory Attribution Circle (OAC), a conceptual tool for integrating olfaction, color and semantic attributes in the design of sensory atmospheres. Developed through a multi-method strategy, the research combined a literature review, semi-structured interviews with academic and industry sources, a case study of Every Human (Algorithmic Perfumery), and AI-assisted exploration. The review revealed a lack of tools operationalizing olfactory design within the built environment. Interviews provided practice-based insights on inclusion, intensity calibration, and feasibility, while the case study demonstrated the potential and limitations of AI-driven personalization. AI was employed to generate mappings between 60 essences, semantic attributes, and chromatic codes, refined through authorial curation. Results highlight systematic crossmodal correspondences between scents, linguistic attributes, and chromatic values, underscoring the importance of crossmodal congruence in designing coherent sensory experiences. The OAC enables congruent, human-centered olfactory design, though cultural variability and semantic ambiguity limit universal application. The study positions the OAC as both a methodological contribution and a foundation for future empirical testing across diverse cultural contexts. Full article

The growing worldwide demand for essential oils (EOs) brings new opportunities for Azorean Cryptomeria japonica aerial parts waste valorization. Therefore, the phytochemical and bioactivity investigation of EOs from different Azorean C. japonica tissues, such as twigs (Az–CJT), remains imperative to add more value to C. japonica’s EO industry, alongside the contribution to the local sustainable circular bioeconomy. This study provides, for the first time, GC–MS analysis and brine shrimp toxicity of the EO hydrodistilled from Az–CJT and aims to compare these parameters with those determined for a commercial Azorean C. japonica (branches and foliage) EO obtained through steam distillation. The main Az–CJT EO components were α-eudesmol (19.53%), phyllocladene (14.80%), elemol (12.43%), nezukol (11.34%), and γ-eudesmol (5.32%), while α-pinene (28.62%), sabinene (24.30%), phyllocladene (5.10%), β-myrcene (5.09%), and limonene (4.93%) dominated in the commercial EO. Thus, Az–CJT EO exhibited the highest sesquiterpenoids (43.52%), diterpenes (20.85%), and diterpenoids (13.21%) content, while the commercial EO was dominated by monoterpenes (74.61%). The Az–CJT EO displayed significantly higher toxicity than the commercial EO, with mortality rates of 87.7% and 16.9%, respectively, at 100 µg/mL. This result is likely related to the substantially higher terpenoid content of Az–CJT EO (61.20% vs. 9.44%), largely attributed to the sesquiterpenoid fraction. Due to its distinct chemical profile, Az–CJT EO may have differential commercial applications, warranting further investigation into its bioactive value and safe use. In conclusion, this study adds knowledge on the potentialities of C. japonica aerial parts’ EOs from the Azorean region. Full article

The genus Lavandula represents one of the most valuable aromatic and medicinal plants, holding significant economic importance in the pharmaceutical, food, perfumery, and cosmetics industries. Among them, L. multifida is a traditionally used medicinal plant in the Mediterranean region. This work provides a comprehensive review of L. multifida, focusing on its traditional uses, phytochemistry, and pharmacological properties. Unlike conventional lavenders, its essential oil is dominated by phenolic monoterpenes, principally carvacrol, alongside significant concentrations of β-bisabolene, 1,8-cineole, and camphor. This distinct phytochemical profile is further complemented by a rich range of non-volatile constituents, including flavonoids, phenolic acids, and triterpenoids. Pharmacological investigations have validated its broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity, demonstrating efficacy against multidrug-resistant bacterial strains and fungal pathogens through mechanisms such as membrane disruption, metabolic interference, and quorum sensing inhibition. Furthermore, the species exhibits significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, mediated primarily through radical scavenging, cyclooxygenase inhibition, and cytokine modulation. Owing to its distinct chemistry, specific traditional uses for respiratory and digestive ailments, limited endemic habitat, and underexplored status, L. multifida presents a promising candidate for future research with high potential for novel drug discovery, particularly in antiparasitic and respiratory therapies. This review concludes by identifying key research priorities for L. multifida, including a detailed analysis of its non-volatile compounds, mechanistic elucidation, toxicological assessments, and standardization of extracts. Addressing these gaps is essential to validate its traditional applications and advance its development into evidence-based phytomedicines, adjuvant therapies, and natural agrochemicals. Full article

Agarwood, valued for its resin, has long been used in perfumery, incense, and traditional medicine. Its resin is primarily derived from species of Aquilaria and is produced through a still-unknown process in response to biotic or abiotic stress. Concerns regarding agarwood’s sustainability and conservation have emerged because of the substantial loss of natural resources due to overharvesting and illegal trade. To address these concerns, artificial techniques are being used to produce agarwood. The mechanism underlying agarwood production must be elucidated to enhance yield. The authentication of agarwood species is challenging because of morphological similarities between pure and hybrid Aquilaria species. Techniques such as DNA barcoding, molecular marker assessment, and metabolomics can ensure accurate identification, facilitating conservation. Artificial intelligence and machine learning can support this process by enabling rapid, automated identification on the basis of genetic and phytochemical data. Advances in resin induction methods (e.g., fungal inoculation) and chemical induction treatments are improving yield and quality. Endophytic fungi and bacteria promote resin production at minimal harm to the tree. Agarwood’s pharmacological potential—antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer effects—has driven research into bioactive compounds such as sesquiterpenes and flavonoids for the development of novel drugs. This systematic review synthesized current evidence on species authentication, induction techniques, and pharmacological properties. The findings may guide future research aimed at ensuring sustainable use and enhancing the medicinal value of agarwood. Full article

Cinnamomum camphora (L.) Presl, a perennial evergreen tree of the Lauraceae family, exhibits diverse chemotypes and abundant essential oil constituents, which are widely utilized in pharmaceuticals, perfumery, and fine chemicals. Based on the variation in dominant volatile constituents, five chemotypes have been identified: Borneol Chemotype (BC), Camphor Chemotype (CC), Eucalyptol Chemotype (EC), Isoborneol Chemotype (IC), and Linalool Chemotype (LC). Their compositions of monoterpenoids (MT) and sesquiterpenes (SQT) differ significantly. This review systematically summarizes the research progress on MT and SQT in different chemotypes of C. camphora over the past five decades, with a total of 164 compounds identified (83 MT and 81 SQT), and compares the unique and shared constituents among chemotypes. Pharmacological studies indicate that C. camphora essential oils from different chemotypes exhibit strong antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antitumor activities, with linalool, camphor, and several SQT compounds showing remarkable biological effects in multiple bacterial, fungal, and tumor cell models. The underlying mechanisms may involve the disruption of cell membrane integrity, inhibition of key metabolic enzymes, interference with genetic transcription, and synergistic effects among multiple constituents. However, research on low-abundance bioactive components in different chemotypes remains limited, and their pharmacological mechanisms require further elucidation. This review provides a systematic reference for the future exploration of bioactive constituents, mechanistic studies, and efficient utilization of essential oils from different chemotypes of C. camphora, offering valuable insights for refined resource exploitation and industrial application. Full article

The white oil-bearing rose (R. alba L.) is the second of the industrially important rose species for Bulgarian rose cultivation and essential oil production. In recent years, the interest in white oil-bearing rose has increased, following the worldwide trend for searching for new aromatic alternatives. Therefore, the purpose of the current research is to evaluate the volatile compounds profile of fresh R. alba L. flowers using headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). More than 75 individual compounds were identified and quantified using HS-SPME-GC/MS. The study revealed that the aroma-bearing fraction of rose volatiles consists mainly of monoterpene alcohols; 2-phenylethanol was the most abundant component (8.4–33.9%), followed by geraniol (12.8–32.5%) and citronellol + nerol (17.7–26.5%). Linalool, α-pinene, β-myrcene, and rose oxides were also observed in low concentrations. The stearopten fraction in the HS phase was observed in low concentration, with main representatives nonadecane + nonadecene, heptadecane, heneicosane, and tricosane. The HS-GC profile of the R. alba fresh flowers shows distinct differences in relative abundance of the components between the two studied clones of the population, as well as between volatiles in petals and in the whole blossom. The absence of some undesirable components, such as allergenic and potentially carcinogenic methyl eugenol in fresh R. alba blossom, makes white oil-bearing rose a promising alternative to R. damascena in perfumery, natural cosmetics, and aromatherapy. Full article

Background: Myrtus communis L. is a typical aromatic species of the Mediterranean basin, whose leaves are rich in essential oil known for its biological properties. Methods: The essential oil of Tunisian Myrtus communis L. leaves was extracted via hydrodistillation using a Clevenger-type apparatus and optimized using a complete factorial design including three factors with two different modalities and one factor with three modalities, hence the total number of experiments N_total = 2³ × 3¹. This optimization concerns the yield, the terpene composition by GC-MS and the antioxidant activity by the two radical scavenging assays, DPPH and ABTS. Four factors were retained, namely, the type of leaf used (dry or fresh sample), the leaf granulometry (whole or ground), the extraction time (1 h 30 min, 2 h 30 min and 3 h 30 min) and the water volume/plant material ratio (1/4 and 1/10). Results: The dry and whole leaves, duration 3 h 30 min, and V/M 1/10 modalities gave the best yield of essential oil (0.77%). The optimal contents of the majority of the terpene compounds, 1,8-cineole (37.23%), α-pinene (54.79%), myrtenyl acetate (23.43%) and limonene (17.77%), were recorded using the modalities dry and whole leaves, duration 2 h 30 min, V/M 1/10; dry and ground leaves, duration 1 h 30 min, V/M 1/4; fresh and whole leaves, duration 3 h 30 min, V/M 1/4; and fresh and whole leaves, duration 3 h 30 min, V/M 1/4, respectively. The antioxidant activity of the essential oil of myrtle leaves was optimized for the two DPPH (7.477 mg TE/g EO) with the GDL, duration 3 h 30 min, V/M 1/4 and ABTS assays (14.053 mg TE/g EO) with WDL terms, duration 3 h 30 min, V/M 1/10. Conclusions: Optimizing essential oil extraction is of significant interest to the cosmetic, perfumery, and pharmaceutical industries, which are constantly seeking optimal conditions to enhance essential oil yield and to ensure a high concentration of terpenic compounds, valued for their aromatic qualities and diverse biological activities. Full article

Climate change poses significant threats to agriculture globally, particularly in arid and semi-arid regions where drought stress (DS) is most severe, disrupting ecosystems and constraining progress in agriculture and horticulture. Roses, valued for their aesthetic appeal, are highly susceptible to abiotic stresses, especially DS, which markedly reduces flower quantity and quality. Under DS conditions, roses exhibit diverse morphological, physiological, biochemical, and molecular adaptations that vary across species. This review examines the effects of DS on rose growth, yield, and physiological traits, including gas exchange, photosynthesis, phytohormone dynamics, and water and nutrient relationships, alongside their biochemical and molecular responses. Furthermore, DS impacts the biosynthesis of secondary metabolites, notably reducing the yield and quality of essential oils in roses, which are critical for their commercial value in perfumery and aromatherapy. Additionally, the impact of DS on rose flower quality and post-harvest longevity is assessed. By elucidating these diverse responses, this review provides a framework for understanding DS effects on roses and offers insights to develop strategies for mitigating its adverse impacts. Full article

Bergamot [Citrus × limon (L.) Osbeck, syn. C. × bergamia (Risso) Risso & Poit.] is primarily cultivated in the Calabria region of Italy and exploited in the food and perfumery industry. The epicarp of its fruit is a rich source of essential oil (BEO) containing mainly monoterpenes, which are known for their diverse biological activities, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antiproliferative, and neuromodulatory effects. Emerging evidence suggests that oxidative stress plays a central role in the pathogenesis of neurodegenerative diseases, particularly Alzheimer’s disease (AD), where it contributes to neuronal dysfunction and cell death. Moreover, heavy metal exposure has been identified as a key environmental factor exacerbating oxidative stress and neurodegeneration in AD. This study aimed to explore whether BEO could mitigate heavy metal (Cd²⁺, Hg²⁺, and Pb²⁺)-induced neurotoxicity in SH-SY5Y cells, a model system for brain cells. MTT and calcein-AM assays were performed to examine the viability of the SH-SY5Y cells after exposure to each heavy metal itself, or in combination with BEO, whereas the LDH assay was carried out to determine the effects of BEO towards necrotic cell death induced by heavy metals. Furthermore, DCFH-DA was performed to determine whether BEO could protect SH-SY5Y from heavy metal-induced oxidative stress. This study also investigated the antibacterial properties of BEO on different Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacterial strains belonging to the ATCC collection. These results suggest that BEO may help counteract heavy metal-induced neuronal damage, particularly Cd²⁺ toxicity, potentially reducing one of the environmental risk factors associated with AD. Additionally, its antimicrobial properties reinforce its relevance in preventing infections that may contribute to neuroinflammation in AD. Full article

Lavender is one of the most appreciated aromatic plants, with high economic value in food, cosmetics, perfumery, and pharmaceutical industries. Lavender essential oil (LEO) is known to have demonstrative antimicrobial, antioxidant, therapeutic, flavor and fragrance properties. Conventional extraction methods, e.g., steam distillation (SD) and hydro-distillation (HD), have been traditionally employed to extract LEO. However, the low yield, high energy consumption, and long extraction time of conventional methods have prompted the introduction of novel extraction technologies. Some of these innovative approaches, such as ohmic-assisted, microwave-assisted, supercritical fluid, and subcritical water extraction approaches, are used as substitutes to conventional extraction methods. While other methods, e.g., sonication, pulsed electric field, and cold plasma, can be used as a pre-treatment that is preceded by conventional or emerging extraction technologies. These innovative approaches have a great significance in reducing the energy consumption, shortening the extraction time, and increasing the extraction yield and the quality of EOs. Therefore, they can be considered as sustainable extraction technologies. However, the scale-up of emerging technologies to an industrial level should also be investigated from the techno-economic points of view in future studies. Full article

The highly valued oil of Rosa damascena Mill. (Rosaceae), widely used in high perfumery, cosmetics, and other spheres of human life, obliges us to know and study the safety profile of the product obtained from the water–steam distillation of fresh rose petals. The genotoxicity of the essential oil (EsO) has not been thoroughly studied despite its wide range of applications. That predetermined the object of this study—to evaluate, through classical cytogenetic methods, the possible cytotoxic/genotoxic activities of R. damascena Mill. EsO (EsORdm) in three different test systems: plant root meristem cells, mammalian bone marrow cells, and human lymphocyte cultures. The rose essential oil showed varying concentration- and time-dependent cytotoxic and genotoxic effects depending on the test system used, and it was established that the oil showed moderate cytotoxicity in lymphocyte cultures and non-high cytotoxicity in ICR mice but none in barley. Both barley and human lymphocytes showed a genotoxic effect with a dose-dependent increase in chromosomal aberrations (CAs) and a substantial rise in micronucleus (MN) frequency, while no genotoxicity was observed in bone marrow cells at the applied concentrations. Human lymphocytes exhibited the highest susceptibility to cytotoxic and genotoxic actions of the EsO. As a valuable plant-derived aromatic product with versatile uses in human life, R. damascena Mill. essential oil should be used in an appropriate concentration range tailored to cellular sensitivity. Full article

Origanum vulgare L. (Lamiaceae) is widely used in the food, pharmaceutical, perfumery, and cosmetic industries for the needs for which this raw material is cultivated. O. vulgare is a polymorphic species with subspecies, which differ in the structure of their reproductive organs, the location of essential oil (EO) trichomes, and the composition of EO. Therefore, it is very important to identify the most valuable chemotypes rich in biologically active substances and cultivate them more widely. This research aimed to study the chemical composition of O. vulgare EO from aerial parts (n = 17) of cultivated plants (leaves, leaves and flowers, flowering tops) from different European countries (n = 5) to determine the dynamics of EO yield and its component accumulation depending on vegetation phases, as well as to establish chemotypes of O. vulgare, which are the most promising for cultivation. EOs from the raw materials were obtained by hydrodistillation according to the European Pharmacopoeia method; their analysis was carried out by GC-MS. A total of 17 studied samples of O. vulgare aerial parts from Estonia, Turkey, Scotland, Moldova, and Italy contained 1.9–11.0 mL/kg of EO. The highest yields of EO were found in the samples from Moldova (11.0 mL/kg) and Italy (9.3 mL/kg). In total, 89 substances were identified in the studied EOs. By studying the variability of the chemical composition during the plant’s vegetation period, we found the highest content of EO was noted in the phase of full flowering and at the end of blooming. Strong correlations (r = 0.61–0.84) were found between the contents of some terpenoids. The six chemotypes of O. vulgare rich in (1) caryophyllene oxide; (2) sabinene; (3) caryophyllene oxide–(E)-β-caryophyllene; (4) (E)-β-caryophyllene; (5) carvacrol, and (6) thymol–carvacrol were found. In terms of quantitative EO content of O. vulgare, none of the studied samples (n = 17), and in terms of total carvacrol and thymol, most of the samples (n = 15) did not meet the minimum standards of the European Pharmacopoeia. When cultivating O. vulgare for the pharmaceutical industry, it is necessary to proceed from plant propagation material rich in EO and chemotypes rich in carvacrol and thymol. Full article