POLEVAN^®—A Multifunctional Natural Hair Ingredient, as Determined by In-Vitro and Human Studies

Abstract

Natural shampoos are increasingly designed to provide multifunctional benefits beyond cleansing, including hair conditioning, scalp protection, and reduced irritation potential. POLEVAN^®, a proprietary levan-based polysaccharide produced enzymatically from sugar, offers a combination of oligo- and polysaccharide fractions with potential cosmetic applications. This study evaluated POLEVAN^® in shampoo formulations for three targeted effects: improving hair glossiness, enhancing scalp moisturization, and boosting foam while enabling reduced surfactant levels. Glossiness was assessed ex vivo using damaged hair tresses. Moisturization was assessed in a randomized clinical trial, comparing the test formulation with hyaluronic acid (HA), employing corneometer readings and Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements. The study was subject-blinded, and all outcomes were determined solely through quantitative, device-based measurements, minimizing observer bias. Foaming performance was tested using the Shaking Cylinder Method. Shampoos containing 2% POLEVAN^® significantly increased hair glossiness by 24% (p = 0.0375) versus a non-significant increase without POLEVAN^®. Moisturization studies showed no significant difference between POLEVAN^® and HA in maintaining hydration or preventing TEWL over 4 weeks. Foam analysis demonstrated that addition of POLEVAN^® allowed up to 50% reduction in surfactant content without compromising foam generation or stability. These results highlight POLEVAN^® as a multifunctional natural ingredient capable of improving sensory and performance attributes of shampoos while supporting gentler formulations.

1. Introduction

Natural shampoos are formulated to offer several benefits beyond basic cleansing. The main desired qualities are that shampoos should be non-irritant, hypoallergenic, moisturizing, and nourishing for hair and scalp, while also improving hair health and appearance, and scalp protection. For specific uses promotion of hair growth and color protection are expected. The use of POLEVAN^®, a multifunctional natural hair ingredient in shampoo formulations, may be beneficial regarding hair glossiness, scalp protection and reduction in surfactant levels.

This novel hair ingredient, produced from sugar, comprises different fractions of levan polysaccharide. Levan is a homopolysaccharide made up of fructose units linked by β-(2→6) glycosidic bonds with a glucose tail. Its average molecular weight varies according to the polymer’s source. Microbial levan exhibits molecular weights spanning 10³ to 10⁹ Da, depending on the bacterial strain and fermentation conditions [1]. POLEVAN^®, a proprietary levan, is enzymatically produced from sugar, allowing for a wide range of molecular weights, including oligomers below 10³ Da.

Recent studies have explored the potential applications of levan in cosmetic formulations [2], considering its established safety for human use. Levan stimulates the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts; it is non-irritating and can alleviate skin irritations caused by certain surfactants.

The potential of levan as a new material for dermal fillers was evaluated in an injectable levan-based hydrogel by combining levan with Pluronic and carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) [3]. Levan showed non-cytotoxicity, enhanced cell proliferation, and a higher amount of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblast cells compared to hyaluronic acid (HA). The injected levan hydrogel was biocompatible and stable over 2 weeks in vivo, longer than the Pluronic F127 hydrogel or HA hydrogel. Also, the levan hydrogel showed a higher amount of collagen production than the HA hydrogel in vivo [3].

Despite the proven cosmetic attributes of levan, its use in hair and scalp care products has not been widespread to date. A composition containing levan was shown to be effective against dandruff inhibiting proliferation of M. furfur and reducing dandruff symptoms such as flaking and itching. While the precise mechanism of action is unknown, the authors assumed that the beneficial effect was achieved by the combination of the ingredient’s antioxidant activity, skin revitalizing and strengthening activities, and soothing effects [4].

The present study focuses on three effects of levan in shampoos: increasing glossiness, moisturizing hair and scalp, and boosting foam.

Glossiness boosters: To improve the glossiness of hair the most common ingredients used in shampoos are silicones, acids (like glycolic and lactic acids), and cationic polymers. Although some of them can be extracted from natural sources, the vast majority are synthetic. Mineral and vegetable oils can be a more natural option. Moroccan argan and coconut oil are very popular [5].

Moisturizers: Purnamawati et al. (2017) reviewed different categories of moisturizers and their mechanisms of action [6], as summarized in

Table 1. Moisturizer Categories.

Emollients	Humectants	Occlusives	Protein Rejuvenators
Saturated & unsaturated hydrocarbons with variable length which improve skin barrier function, membrane fluidity, and cell signaling, resulting in overall improvement of skin texture and appearance. Often combined with emulsifier	Low molecular substances in majority, with capability to attract water into the stratum corneum. Frequently used with other compounds, which may retain the water content	Consists of oils and waxes, forming an inactive layer on the skin surface to physically block water evaporation from the skin—trans epidermal water loss (TEWL)	Small molecular weight proteins, believed to aid skin rejuvenation by replenishing skin’s essential proteins

.

Regarding natural alternatives Bijauliya et al. (2017) list several natural ingredients for the treatment of dry skin [7]: aloe vera, coconut oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, sunflower oil.

Surfactants and foam boosters: Surfactants are essential cleansing agents in all shampoos, and their primary role is to remove dirt and oil from hair and scalp. Conventional (synthetic) surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) are well-documented skin and eye irritants and therefore are generally excluded from modern shampoos due to their harshness and potential health concerns.

Natural and naturally derived surfactants are typically obtained from plants (e.g., coconut) and include options like decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, and saponins. They are considered milder and less likely to cause irritation. Still, even the mildest surfactants can cause irritation in some individuals, particularly those with very sensitive skin, allergies, or pre-existing skin conditions. The irritation potential is significantly reduced compared to harsher, synthetic options, although it is not entirely irritation-free.

Neytal P. et al. (2024) reviewed several natural alternatives to traditional surfactants produced naturally by bacteria, fungi or yeast as secondary metabolites [8]: sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mannosylerythritol lipids.

The use of saponins as surfactants is part of the growing trend of using more eco-friendly surfactants [9].

Foam boosters are ingredients added to shampoos to enhance the amount, stability, or texture of foam. Most of these foam boosters are either surfactants themselves or are closely related to surfactants in their chemical structure and function. Some foam boosters, such as certain fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), are technically not surfactants but can still help stabilize foam when used alongside surfactants.

Shampoo formulation plays a crucial role, as the overall risk of irritation depends not only on the concentration of surfactants but also on the presence of other ingredients. Incorporating non-surfactant foam boosters into the formulation can help mitigate the negative effects of surfactants by allowing for lower surfactant concentrations.

Most polysaccharides currently used in hair and scalp care such as pullulan, xanthan gum, guar gum, and inulin provide functional benefits through film formation, thickening, or prebiotic activity. While these polymers are valuable, their structural features and physicochemical properties define both their strengths and limitations:

Pullulan is a linear α-(1→4) (1→6)-linked glucan that forms transparent, oxygen-impermeable films widely used in skin tightening and gloss-improving “lifting” products [10]. However, its relatively rigid linear structure restricts flexibility in water retention and foam stabilization.

Xanthan gum, a branched β-(1→4) glucan with charged side chains, is a superb viscosity modifier and stabilizer, but contributes minimally to sensory attributes such as gloss or shine because it tends to form thicker, more turbid solutions [11].

Guar gum and its cationic derivatives deposit strongly on hair fibers, improving conditioning and combability, yet they often impart a build-up effect and can reduce hair’s natural movement when used at higher concentrations [5].

Inulin and other fructan-based prebiotics support scalp microbiota balance and can improve hydration indirectly. Nevertheless, they lack the film uniformity and gloss-enhancing optics needed for strong sensorial performance.

By contrast, levan (a key component in POLEVAN^®) possesses a unique β-(2→6) fructofuranosyl backbone with occasional β-(2→1) branches, giving rise to a spherical, nano-globular conformation in aqueous solution [9]. This molecular arrangement confers several distinct advantages:

High Water Solubility Across Molecular Weight Ranges—Unlike pullulan or xanthan, which form relatively viscous solutions even at low concentrations, levan can exist as both oligosaccharide (MW < 10³ Da) and high-MW polysaccharide fractions (10³–10⁹ Da), allowing it to provide dual functionality: humectancy from low-MW oligomers and film formation from high-MW polymers [1,2].

Smooth, Transparent Films with Gloss-Enhancing Optics—The spherical architecture of levan-based polymers allows formation of uniform, thin coatings on hair fibers. These reduce cuticle irregularities, improving light reflectance and thus hair gloss. This sets POLEVAN^® apart from xanthan and guar, which tend to form thicker, matte coatings [2,9].

Foam Stabilization without Viscosity Overload—Unlike xanthan and guar, which stabilize foam primarily through thickening, levan contributes to foam stability via micro-structural self-assembly, enabling a reduction in surfactant concentration while maintaining or even improving foam quality [9].

Biological Activity Beyond Physical Functionality—Levan has been reported to stimulate keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation, as well as to reduce irritation from surfactants, positioning it as both a functional excipient and a bioactive cosmetic agent [3]. Most traditional polysaccharides (pullulan, xanthan, guar) are inert in this regard, and inulin’s prebiotic effects are indirect.

Taken together, these structural and mechanistic distinctions position POLEVAN^® as a next-generation multifunctional polysaccharide that combines the gloss-enhancing surface effects of pullulan, the foam-modulating potential of xanthan/guar, and the barrier-supporting/prebiotic benefits of inulin, while adding unique bioactivity and versatility through its β-(2→6) fructan architecture.

2. Materials and Methods

2.1. Materials

POLEVAN^®, a 30% levan solution was produced by Gan Shmuel Group, Ltd. (Gan Shmuel, Israel). Amphotensid B4/C– Cocoaminopropyl Betain, and Amphotensid GB 2009 Conc-RSPO-MB—Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate were purchased from Zschimmer & Schwarz (Lahnstein, Germany). LMW hyaluronic acid (M.W. 7–250 kDa) and HMW hy-aluronic acid (M.W. 250–2300 kDa) were obtained from Contipro Biotech (Dolni Dobrouc, Czech Republic).

Commercial shampoo, for normal hair, enriched with linseed extract.

Shampoo Ingredients: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamide DEA, Glycerin, Cocami-dopropyl Betaine, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, DMDM Hydantoin, Benzophenone-4, Polyquaternium–7, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Benzoate, Magnesium Nitrate, Mag-nesium Chloride, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, CI 47005, Methylchloroi-sothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, CI 42090, CI 19140, Potassium Sorbate, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Coumarin, Geraniol, Eugenol.

2.2. Ex-Vivo Evaluation of the Glossiness Effect of Hair Products on Damaged Hair

Hair glossiness was examined using a glossymeter (Skin Glossymeter G200, Courage&Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Mathias-Bruggen-Str. 91, 50829 cologne, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany).

The glossiness readings were measured before and after product application and hair washing:

Damaged hair tresses were collected from donors, each measuring approximately 2 cm in width and 7–10 cm in length. The test included 4 tresses, which were tested each in 3 replicates. The hair tresses were washed in a 2% solution of Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), rinsed in warm water, combed, air dried, and stored.

Before exposure to the test items, the hair glossiness of each tress was monitored by the Glossymeter.

The test items were sprayed, lathered onto the hair tresses, and washed three times before drying with a hair dryer. Afterward, the hair glossiness was measured again.

Two test items were tested at full concentration (100%): Test item 1—Shampoo with 2% POLEVAN^®, Test item 2—Shampoo without 2% POLEVAN^®, as reference.

The blank consisted of damaged hair tresses not treated with test items. The negative control consists of hair tresses, neither treated with test items nor damaged.

Glossiness measurement: The Glossymeter G200 (used for the test) determines the gloss of the hair by light reflectance. The gloss of the surface can be expressed by direct reflection of light on the surface.

The % of glossiness compares the glossiness of the samples treated with the test items with the glossiness of the negative control. % Glossiness = 100 × (Glossiness e/Glossiness n), where Glossiness e is the mean value of the measured glossiness of the test item (3 repeats). Glossiness n is the mean value of the measured glossiness of the negative control.

The lower the % of Glossiness, the lower the efficacy of the product.

2.3. Clinical Trial: Comparative Evaluation of the Hydration Level and TEWL of Body Cream Products on Healthy Skin

Twenty-two healthy female volunteers, without any visible skin diseases or known allergies to skincare products were enrolled in the study. Before participation, each subject received a detailed explanation of the study procedure from the investigator and provided a written informed consent.

The clinical study was carried out for a period of 4 weeks, by daily application of products containing POLEVAN^® vs. hyaluronic acid (HA) and recording skin hydration and TEWL at baseline (T0) and after 4 weeks of daily use (T1).

Application products:

A.

Body cream containing 1.6% POLEVAN^® (Test ingredient).

B.

Body cream containing 0.2% Hyaluronic Acid (Commercial ingredient, recommended dose).

C.

Body cream containing 0.8% POLEVAN^® + 0.1% hyaluronic Acid (Combination of test and commercial ingredients).

Composition of body cream base and preparation process described in Appendix A.

Application site: On the face. To compare the test ingredient (POLEVAN^®) to the commercial ingredient, HA, or the combination of both, each subject applied the A product on half of the face and B or C product on the other half.

Application frequency: once a day.

Population characteristics: Females between the ages of 40–70.

Ethical committee approval date: 05.02.2017.

Clinical study number: MHMC-0023-16.

2.3.1. Hydration Level by Corneometer

Hydration level was evaluated by a Corneometer (Courage&Khazaka, CK). The probe of the Corneometer (A probe is shown in Figure 1), was placed on the skin at a constant pressure and measurement of skin hydration were taken. Each measurement was repeated 3 times, and the median of the repeated measurements was determined. Room temperature and humidity were kept constant.

2.3.2. Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

TEWL was measured with Tewameter TM 300, Courage and Khazaka, CK (Figure 2). The results of TEWL in each measurement (n = 3) were recorded after stabilization of the curve of the results in real time. Room temperature and humidity were kept constant.

2.4. Assessment of a Mix of Surfactants with and Without POLEVAN^® for Foam Generation and Stability

The foam generation capability and stability of a mix of surfactants with and without POLEVAN^® were tested by the Shaking Cylinder Method.

Procedure: after pouring a known volume of surfactant and Levan solution into tap water in a measuring cylinder, (see

Table 2. Composition of blends of surfactants with and without POLEVAN^®.

Sample Number	Tap Water	% CAPB 1	% DC 2	% POLEVAN®	% Total Surfactants
1	70	15	15	0	30
2	70	10	10	10	20
3	75	10	10	5	20
4	75	7.5	7.5	10	15
5	80	7.5	7.5	5	15

¹ CAPB: Amphotensid Cocamidopropyl Betaine; ² DC: Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate.

for details), the cylinders were shaken gently to mix the ingredients without foaming. Then the solutions were mixed 1:1 with tap water (15 mL + 15 mL), resulting in a final 30 mL solution at 50% dilution. These solutions were turned back and forth 20 times and the foam volume measured immediately and after 30 min.

Different concentrations of POLEVAN^® were added while reducing accordingly the concentrations of the foaming agents (surfactants) to optimize product concentrations (Table 2).

After agitation (T0), the foam height reflects the capacity of foam generation, after 30 min (T30) the stability of the foam is determined. Each sample was prepared and tested for foaming capacity and stability six times.

3. Results

The results were presented according to the analyzed effects of POLEVAN^® in shampoos: increasing glossiness, moisturizing hair and scalp, and boosting foam and foam stability.

3.1. Increasing Glossiness

The efficacy of two shampoos, with and without POLEVAN^® were assessed regarding the glossiness of the treated hair.

The statistical analysis was performed according to unpaired t-test, two-tailed p value, with a significant difference for p < 0.05.

According to Figure 3, untreated hair damaged or undamaged, washed three times with distilled water and blow-dried, shows a significant reduction in glossiness. It was hypothesized that the wash cycles with distilled water removed the buildup of sebum responsible for hair gloss.

When the hair tresses were washed three times with the test product containing 2% POLEVAN^® and then blow-dried, a significant increase of 24% (p = 0.0375) in glossiness of the hair was reported. However, when the hair tresses were washed three times with the tested shampoo without POLEVAN^® and then blow-dried, a non-significant increase of 13% in glossiness was detected (p = 0.1955).

In conclusion, the shampoo containing POLEVAN^® demonstrated a significantly greater efficacy than the shampoo without POLEVAN^®, in maintaining and improving the glossiness of the hair.

3.2. Moisturizing Effect

Anatomically, the scalp represents a specialized continuation of the skin, exhibiting the same fundamental epidermal–dermal architecture, barrier composition, and immunological framework. The stratum corneum and viable epidermis maintain a similar lipid matrix, tight-junction organization, and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) content, which together regulate hydration and barrier integrity [12]. Consequently, the mechanisms governing water retention and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) in the skin are applicable to the scalp, where the same structural proteins (e.g., filaggrin), aquaporin-3 channels, and intercellular lipids maintain hydration homeostasis.

Comparative biophysical studies demonstrate that scalp TEWL and hydration levels are generally comparable to, or slightly higher than, those of other body sites, confirming the functional equivalence of the barrier [13]. Pathological scalp conditions such as dandruff and androgenetic alopecia are associated with increased TEWL and reduced stratum corneum hydration, reflecting the same link between barrier disruption and dryness observed in skin disorders [14]. These parallels indicate that the physiological determinants of hydration and water loss—lipid composition, corneocyte cohesion, and microvascular perfusion—are conserved across skin and scalp.

Furthermore, both tissues share the same principal penetration pathways: the trans-stratum corneum and appendageal (follicular) routes. The latter is more prominent in the scalp due to its high follicular density, which influences local moisture gradients [15,16]. Although the scalp’s rich vascular network slightly modifies local clearance and moisture flux [17], the underlying diffusion and evaporation mechanisms driving TEWL remain the same as in other skin regions.

Collectively, these anatomical, physiological, and biophysical correspondences support the extrapolating data from skin research to scalp applications, particularly in studies of barrier repair, hydration modulation, and TEWL.

To evaluate the skin moisturizing effect of POLEVAN^®, a clinical study was performed. The study compares pairs including a cream with 1.6% POLEVAN^® (recommended dose), the same base with 0.2% hyaluronic acid, the recommended dose of the well-known moisturizer, and a mixture of both in equal amounts, applied on half the face for 4 weeks, daily. The parameters measured were hydration and TEWL levels.

3.2.1. Hydration Level (Figure 4 and Figure 5)

No significant difference was found between the half treated with cream containing POLEVAN^® and the half containing hyaluronic acid (p > 0.05).

No significant difference was found between the half treated with cream containing POLEVAN^® and the half containing a mixture of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid (p > 0.05).

Figure 4. Hydration level of POLEVAN^® vs. hyaluronic acid. A—POLEVAN^®, B—hyaluronic acid.

Figure 4. Hydration level of POLEVAN^® vs. hyaluronic acid. A—POLEVAN^®, B—hyaluronic acid.

Figure 5. Hydration level of POLEVAN^® vs. mix of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid. A—POLEVAN^®, C—mix of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid.

Figure 5. Hydration level of POLEVAN^® vs. mix of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid. A—POLEVAN^®, C—mix of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid.

3.2.2. TEWL Level (Figure 6 and Figure 7)

No difference was found between the half treated with cream containing POLEVAN^® and the half containing hyaluronic acid (p > 0.05).

Figure 6. TEWL level of POLEVAN^® vs. hyaluronic acid. A—POLEVAN^®, B—hyaluronic acid.

Figure 6. TEWL level of POLEVAN^® vs. hyaluronic acid. A—POLEVAN^®, B—hyaluronic acid.

Figure 7. TEWL level of POLEVAN^® vs. a mix of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid. A—POLEVAN^®, C—mix of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid.

Figure 7. TEWL level of POLEVAN^® vs. a mix of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid. A—POLEVAN^®, C—mix of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid.

No significant difference was found between the half treated with cream containing POLEVAN^® and the half containing hyaluronic acid (p > 0.05).

In conclusion, POLEVAN^® has the same moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid.

3.3. Foam Booster Effect

We tested the option of reducing surfactant levels by adding POLEVAN^® to the solution. To evaluate the foam booster effect of POLEVAN^®, several solutions containing tap water and different compositions of foaming agents with and without POLEVAN^® were prepared (see Table 2 in M&M, Section 2.4). The volume of the different solutions was checked immediately after shaking to measure the foaming effect (Figure 8 below), and after 30 min to test the stability of the foam (Figure 9). Six replications were made for each sample (

Table 3. Foam generation capacity and stability of solutions with and without POLEVAN^®.

Sample	ABC/DC/Levan (%)	Solution Volume (mL)	Foam Volume, T0	Foam Volume, T30	Foam Generation Capacity (%)	Foam Stability (%)
1	15:15:0	30	196.67	69.17	655.56	35.17
2	10:10:10	30	216.67	86.67	722.22	40.0
3	10:10:5	30	250	81.67	833.33	32.67
4	7.5:7.5:10	30	208.33	85	694.44	40.8
5	7.5:7.5:5	30	215	75	716.67	34.88

).

Sample 3, which contained only 20% surfactant with 5% POLEVAN^® exhibited better foaming results and stability compared to the control (sample 1), which contained tap water and foaming agents at 30%, thus allowing for a reduction of 10% in surfactants (20% instead of 30%), while improving outcomes. The surfactant level may be reduced by up to 15% with an addition of 5% POLEVAN^® with similar foam generation capacity compared to the control (samples 4 and 5 vs. sample 1).

Additionally, sample 4, which contained only 15% foaming agents with 10% POLEVAN^® exhibited similar foaming results and better stability compared to the control, allowing for a reduction of 15% in surfactants (15% instead of 30%).

Beyond the visual inspection of the foam that was performed, the significance of the differences was checked using a One-Way ANOVA test.

For the initial foam generation capacity, F = 2.33 and p = 0.0842.

For the foam stability, F = 2.23 and p = 0.0946.

At the conventional α = 0.05 level, neither T0 nor T30 showed statistically significant differences between groups.

4. Discussion

The results presented above show the effect of POLEVAN^® on three different aspects of hair-scalp treatment.

4.1. Increasing Hair Glossiness

Glossiness in hair is primarily determined by how light interacts with the hair surface. Well-moisturized hair with balanced natural oils (sebum) maintains a smooth surface and reflects light better, but too much oil can make hair look greasy rather than glossy. Additives to hair products may help flatten and seal the cuticle (the outermost layer of the hair) for extra shining. Levan has desirable properties such as being non-toxic, moisturizing, and antioxidant. Levan-based products are stable, and exhibit enhanced functional benefits, positioning them as a promising trend in the green beauty industry [18].

We observed that washing untreated hair three times, either damaged or undamaged, with distilled water, followed by blow-drying, significantly reduced its glossiness. It was hypothesized that the wash cycles with distilled water removed some buildup of sebum responsible for hair gloss, resulting in a reduced glossiness reading.

When the untreated hair, either damaged or undamaged, was washed three times with a shampoo without POLEVAN^®, a non-significant increase of 13% in glossiness of the hair was detected (p = 0.1955). However, when the untreated hair, either damaged or undamaged, was washed three times with a shampoo containing 2% POLEVAN^®, a statistically significant increase of 24% (p = 0.0375) in hair glossiness was observed.

The results show that shampoo with POLEVAN^® is more effective in preserving and increasing the glossiness of the hair compared to the same shampoo without POLEVAN^®.

We hypothesize that POLEVAN^®, a mixture of oligo and polysaccharides, may help increase hair shine by forming a thin, even film over the hair shaft. Moreover, oligo and polysaccharides can retain water and bind moisture to the hair.

It is important to acknowledge that the present evaluation of hair gloss was performed only in comparison to negative control, without benchmarking against well-established gloss-enhancing agents. As such, the findings should be regarded as preliminary. While POLEVAN^® demonstrated a statistically significant improvement in hair glossiness under the tested conditions, further studies are warranted to contextualize its performance relative to recognized industry benchmarks such as silicones (e.g., dimethicone), quaternary ammonium polymers, or natural oils commonly used for shine enhancement. Future comparative studies should also explore POLEVAN^®’s interaction with different surfactant systems, as such formulation variables may significantly influence its deposition, film uniformity, and optical behavior. Expanding the experimental design in this manner would help determine whether POLEVAN^® functions synergistically or competitively with standard gloss boosters and would strengthen the evidence supporting its multifunctional claims.

4.2. Moisturizing Outcome

Moisturizers support skin health by maintaining adequate levels of stratum corneum hydration (SCH) and reducing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). If moisturizers are not used regularly and adequately, skin SCH levels are typically reduced, while TEWL levels are increased.

The moisturizing effect of POLEVAN^® was compared to the moisturizing effect of hyaluronic acid, a well-known moisturizer, by including them in the same cream base (applied to the face). A mixture of both ingredients was also included in the study. The effect was monitored by two tests: Hydration level and TEWL were determined at the beginning of the study and after 30 days of daily application.

The results show that there are no significant differences in the moisturizing effect of POLEVAN^® and hyaluronic acid applied daily for 30 days. Both maintain adequate hydration levels in the stratum corneum and prevent increased trans epidermal water loss.

When considering the use of hyaluronic acid (HA) in skin care, it is important to note that its efficacy is influenced by both environmental conditions and formulation. In dry climates, where ambient humidity is low, HA may draw water from the deeper layers of the skin to the surface rather than attracting moisture from the surrounding air. As a result, this outward movement of water can increase trans epidermal water loss and potentially exacerbate skin dehydration, especially if HA is used without an accompanying emollient or occlusive agent to seal in moisture. The risk of such dehydration is contingent on the molecular weight of the HA used and the absence of humidity, underscoring the need for appropriate formulation and application practices in arid environments.

On the contrary, the moisturizing mechanism of polysaccharides like POLEVAN^® often involves film formation on the skin surface, which prevents water loss and soothes dry skin, contrasting with the potential of HA to pull water from deeper skin layers in dry environments if not properly formulated or used with occlusives.

The extrapolation of data from skin care studies to scalp applications is scientifically grounded. Distinctive features—such as higher follicular density, increased sebaceous secretion, and variations in thickness and sensitivity—do not alter the basic physiological processes relevant to hydration, barrier integrity, and irritation response [19].

In-vivo scalp studies further confirmed that levan-containing complexes reduce dandruff severity and pruritus while improving scalp comfort, outcomes directly aligned with its previously described soothing and revitalizing activities [19]. These results emphasize that irritation and barrier endpoints behave in a comparable manner across different cutaneous regions, supporting extrapolation of safety and tolerability findings from skin to scalp.

Given that HA is an established benchmark humectant in both dermatology and trichology, the demonstrated parity of levan with HA in skin models provides a rational basis for extending these results to scalp care. Since hydration, barrier maintenance, and irritation control are central to both skin and scalp physiology, the use of facial skin experimental data to evaluate levan’s efficacy in scalp applications is scientifically justified.

The present study compared the moisturizing performance of POLEVAN^® primarily with hyaluronic acid, a well-established humectant. However, other reference moisturizers such as glycerin, urea, or natural oils were not included in the comparative design. As a result, the scope of the evaluation remains limited, and the findings should be considered preliminary. Further studies should incorporate these benchmark ingredients to comprehensively assess the relative moisturizing efficacy of POLEVAN^® across different mechanisms of action—humectant, emollient, and occlusive. Additionally, extending such comparison to hair and scalp models under varying environmental conditions would provide a more complete understanding of POLEVAN^®’s functional role and substantiate its potential as a multifunctional moisturizing agent.

4.3. Foam Booster Outcome

As the primary role of shampoos is to remove dirt and oil from hair and scalp, surfactants are essential components due to their cleansing effect. However, the effectiveness of surfactants can also be their disadvantage because, when in contact with the hair and scalp, they reduce the level of sebum and may irritate the scalp.

Sebum, the natural oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands associated with hair follicles, plays several important roles for the hair and scalp: it forms a protective barrier on the scalp surface that shields against environmental aggressors such as UV radiation, pollutants, and harsh weather; maintains scalp health and pH balance; provides antimicrobial effects (due to their components, mainly triglycerides that induce anti-microbial peptide formation) and reduces friction and hair damage during brushing and styling.

Harsh surfactants can strip away the scalp’s natural protective lipid barrier. This disruption increases water loss, leading to dryness, itching, burning, and redness. The compromised barrier makes the scalp more susceptible to pollutants and allergens, raising the risk of irritation, eczema, and allergies.

Because of these undesirable side effects, there is a strong motivation to reduce the level of surfactants without compromising the effectiveness of the shampoo while maintaining the hygiene of the hair and scalp.

We hypothesize that POLEVAN^® can enhance the foaming properties of shampoos and may help reduce the level of traditional surfactants required in formulations. In general, polysaccharides can do this due to their thickening, film-forming, and sometimes amphiphilic properties, all of which contribute to foam stabilization. Polysaccharides are recognized for their ability to stabilize liquid foam [4]. Polymer-surfactant complexes can function as foam stabilizers. The presence of polymers can lead to substantial increases in foam stability when added to surfactant solutions, which is a desirable consumer benefit in shampoos and body washes [20]. Although levan, the main component in POLEVAN^®, does not have amphiphilic properties, its conformation in water can sometimes allow it to form nano- or microstructures, including self-assembled particles, which might give the effect of amphiphilic behavior.

The unique structural conformation of levan, based on β-(2→6) fructan architecture, promotes uniform film formation and microstructural stabilization at the air–water interface, thereby improving foaming capacity and allowing surfactant reduction in formulations [2].

The results demonstrate that it is possible to reduce the concentration of surfactants (from 30 to 20% and even 15%), without affecting foaming capacity or foam stability, by using POLEVAN^® as a supplement. Very good results for foam stability were achieved when using low surfactant concentrations (15%), indicating that levan significantly contributes to enhancing foam stability.

The foam performance assessment in this study was conducted using varying concentrations of surfactants as controls without inclusion of established foam stabilizers or boosters such as fatty alcohols, betaine derivatives, or amphoteric polymers. Further research should include benchmark comparison with well-known foam-stabilizing agents to better define POLEVAN^®’s contribution to foam generation and stability. In addition, evaluating its performance across different surfactant systems and formulation matrices will be essential to confirm its reproducibility and to elucidate the mechanism underlying its foam-enhancing properties.

5. Conclusions

This study demonstrates that POLEVAN^®, a multifunctional levan-based polysaccharide, provides measurable cosmetic benefits when incorporated into shampoo, liquid soap, and skincare formulations. Ex-vivo and in-vivo evaluations confirmed three key effects:

• Increasing hair glossiness: Shampoos containing 2% POLEVAN^® significantly improved hair shine compared to identical formulations without POLEVAN^®, likely through film formation and moisture-binding activity on the hair shaft.
• Moisturizing effect: Topical formulations with POLEVAN^® maintained hydration and reduced trans epidermal water loss at levels comparable to hyaluronic acid. Unlike HA, which can exacerbate dehydration under low-humidity conditions if not properly formulated, POLEVAN^® acts primarily by forming a protective film, preventing water loss and soothing dry skin.
• Foam booster effect: Incorporation of POLEVAN^® into surfactant blends enhanced foam stability and allowed for a reduction in surfactant concentration by up to 50%, without compromising cleansing performance. This property may contribute to lowering irritation potential in hair care formulations.

Using a multi-functional synergistic ingredient in a formula enables multiple effects with a single component, simplifying the formulation while providing greater flexibility.

Overall, the findings highlight POLEVAN^® as a promising multifunctional ingredient that can enhance product performance while supporting safer and more sustainable formulation strategies. By reducing reliance on synthetic surfactants and delivering moisturizing and gloss-enhancing properties, POLEVAN^® aligns with current consumer and industry demands for effective, natural, and eco-friendly cosmetic solutions.

The current study demonstrated that POLEVAN^® contributes to measurable improvements in hair gloss, moisturizing efficacy, and foam performance under the evaluated experimental conditions. These studies support its potential as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient. Nevertheless, the absence of benchmarking against established reference materials limits the generalizability of the results.

Future studies should include systemic comparison with recognized gloss enhancers, humectants, emollients, and foam stabilizers to better define POLEVAN^®’s relative performance within conventional formulation frameworks. In addition, evaluating its behavior in diverse surfactants systems and under variable environmental conditions will be critical for elucidating the mechanism governing its deposition, film formation, and interfacial activity. Such investigations will provide a more comprehensive understanding of POLEVAN^®’s structure-function relationships and substantiate its suitability for broad cosmetic applications.