Search Results (34)

Almost 70 years after the surprise discovery of a cache of textile-wrapped relics inside an early 13th-century reliquary bust, the St Eustace head reliquary (accession number 1850,1127.1), four of the textile relic wrappings were analysed by combining multiband imaging and fibre-optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), as well as dye analysis by high-pressure liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) and fibre analysis by scanning electron microscopy—energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX). In all cases, the use of silk was confirmed, in line with the idea that these precious textiles were purposefully chosen for reuse in a sacred setting. Additionally, dye analysis was able to point to the possible geographic origins of the textile fragments. For 1850,1127.1.a, a mixture of sappanwood (Biancaea sappan) and flavonoid yellow dyes was commensurate with a Chinese or Central Asian origin. Mediterranean origins were thought likely for 1850,1127.1.c and 1850,1127.1.f, from the mixture of kermes (Kermes vermilio) and cochineal (likely Porphyrophora sp.), found in the mauve band of the former, and the combination of weld (Reseda luteola), madder (Rubia tinctorum) and an indigoid dye found in the latter. Finally, the unusual combination of sappanwood, orchil and a yellow dye containing flavonoid glucuronides suggested a less straightforward origin for textile 1850,1127.1.g. The other textile fragments from the reliquary were only investigated using FORS without removing them from their Perspex glass mounts. Nonetheless, indications for the presence of insect-red anthraquinone dyes, safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) and an indigoid dye were obtained from some of these fragments. The study provides a window into the landscape of availability, use and re-use in sacred contexts of precious textiles in the 13th century and evidences the geographic reach of these silks, allowing a new perspective on the St Eustace head reliquary. Full article

As a new development direction in exoskeleton research, wearable flexible exoskeleton systems are highly favored for their freedom of movement, flexibility, lightweight design, and comfortable wearability. These systems are gradually becoming the preferred choice for rehabilitation therapy, and enhancing physical performance. In this thesis, based on existing research in wearable flexible exoskeletons, we aim to design a lightweight wearable upper limb rehabilitation exoskeleton that meets the needs of stroke patients with a high likelihood of upper limb impairment. The system should provide sufficient flexibility for comfortable and convenient use while minimizing the weight to reduce the user’s burden during wear. Our proposed lightweight wearable flexible exoskeleton assists users in achieving rehabilitation exercises for both the shoulder (external/internal rotation) and forearm (flexion/extension) movements. The system consists of a flexible fabric section connecting the torso–shoulder–upper arm, a flexible fabric section for the forearm, and a back-mounted actuation device. The fabric sections primarily consist of elastic textile materials with a few rigid components. Emphasizing lightweight design, we strive to minimize the exoskeleton’s weight, ensuring optimal user comfort. The actuation device connects to the fabric sections via tensioned wires, driven by a motor to induce arm movement during rehabilitation exercises. To enhance safety and prevent secondary upper limb injuries due to exoskeleton malfunction, we incorporate a physical limiter retricting the exoskeleton’s range of motion. Additionally, we include tension-adjustment mechanisms and cushioning springs to improve the feasibility of this wearable flexible exoskeleton. After completing the structural design, this paper conducted a basic static and kinematic analysis of the exoskeleton system to provide theoretical support. Additionally, the feasibility and effectiveness of the exoskeleton system design were verified through dynamic simulations. Full article

Bioimpedance imaging aims to generate a 3D map of the resistivity and permittivity of biological tissue from multiple impedance channels measured with electrodes applied to the skin. When the electrodes are distributed around the body (for example, by delineating a cross section of the chest or a limb), bioimpedance imaging is called electrical impedance tomography (EIT) and results in functional 2D images. Conventional EIT systems rely on individually cabling each electrode to master electronics in a star configuration. This approach works well for rack-mounted equipment; however, the bulkiness of the cabling is unsuitable for a wearable system. Previously presented cooperative sensors solve this cabling problem using active (dry) electrodes connected via a two-wire parallel bus. The bus can be implemented with two unshielded wires or even two conductive textile layers, thus replacing the cumbersome wiring of the conventional star arrangement. Prior research demonstrated cooperative sensors for measuring bioimpedances, successfully realizing a measurement reference signal, sensor synchronization, and data transfer though still relying on individual batteries to power the sensors. Subsequent research using cooperative sensors for biopotential measurements proposed a method to remove batteries from the sensors and have the central unit supply power over the two-wire bus. Building from our previous research, this paper presents the application of this method to the measurement of bioimpedances. Two different approaches are discussed, one using discrete, commercially available components, and the other with an application-specific integrated circuit (ASIC). The initial experimental results reveal that both approaches are feasible, but the ASIC approach offers advantages for medical safety, as well as lower power consumption and a smaller size. Full article

The Ethnographic Museum in Dubrovnik holds an extensive textile collection which includes a number of dresses and costumes from Croatia and neighbouring countries. Until recently, the costumes were displayed on mannequins created by the academic artist Zvonimir Lončarić (1927–2004). His sculptures are expressive forms made of terracotta, fibreglass, wood, metal, acrylic paint and other materials chosen for their visual appeal. Due to their importance, the museum considered the mannequins to be protected works of art in the permanent exhibition; however, they had a harmful effect on the costumes displayed. In 2018, after completing a series of conservation–restoration projects within the collection, it was decided to replace the existing mounts with new, museum-quality mannequins. Two project-based learning workshops were organised, led by a team of textile conservators from the University of Dubrovnik and the Croatian Conservation Institute, in collaboration with the curator of the Ethnographic Museum. This case study highlights the challenges of exhibiting ethnographic costumes by discussing past presentation methods and how new solutions have been implemented in line with the modern conservation–restoration profession. The new solutions take into consideration ethics, decision-making processes, and an understanding of contemporary materials and methodology. Full article

The medieval textiles collection of the National Museum of Art of Romania (MNAR) has been in place since 1865 and nowadays preserves about 1000 medieval and pre-modern weavings and embroideries. These extremely valuable objects, dated between the 14th and the 19th centuries, are mainly religious embroidered garments and veils with special significance in the Byzantine li-turgy. Ecclesiastical embroideries of Byzantine tradition are characterized by a complex technique: metallic threads with a silk core, metallic wires and coloured silk threads are couched over padding on layers of silk and cellulosic supports so as to create relief through light reflection. The silk sup-ports and the sewing threads are coloured, mainly in red, blue, green and yellow hues, and analytical investigations of the dyes used in embroideries preserved in the MNAR, in the Putna and Sucevița Monasteries, have been released in previous studies by the corresponding author. The present work continues the approach with research into dyes in about 25 aëres and epitaphioi from the MNAR collection. Considering their privileged function in the liturgical ritual, these luxurious pieces embroidered with silver, gilded silver or coloured silk threads and decorated with pearls, sequins or semi-precious stones are the most faithful description of the stylistic and technological evolution of the art of post-Byzantine embroidery in the Romanian provinces. The data resulting from the present research will improve the knowledge regarding this topic. Dye analysis was performed by liquid chromatography with diode array detection, while fibres were characterized by infrared spectroscopy (with attenuated total reflectance) and optical microscopy. The biological sources identified—carminic acid-based dyes, redwood, dyer’s broom, weld, indigo-based dyes––will be discussed in correspondence with their use in the embroidery technique: support, lining and embroidery threads, together with other sources previously reported on Byzantine embroideries in Romanian collections, and in similar objects preserved at Holy Mount Athos. Full article

The utilisation of cotton waste as precursors in the synthesis of nanocrystalline cellulose has gained significant attention. This approach suggests a sustainable solution to address the growing concern of textile waste accumulation while simultaneously producing a valuable material. The main aim of this study is to examine the properties of cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) obtained from postconsumer polyester–cotton waste and assess the effect of different fabric structures on the extraction and these properties. To acquire nanocellulose, a thorough decolourisation pretreatment process was utilised, which involved the treatment of polyester–cotton waste with sodium dithionite and hydrogen peroxide. Consequently, the postconsumer material was then treated with an acid hydrolysis method employing a 64% (v/v) sulphuric acid solution at 50 °C for 75 min, resulting in the formation of CNCs with average yield percentages ranging from 38.1% to 69.9%. Separation of the acid from the CNC was facilitated by a centrifugation process followed by dialysis against deionised water. Uniform dispersion was then achieved using ultrasonication. A variety of analytical techniques were employed to investigate the morphological, chemical, thermal, and physical properties of the isolated CNCs. Among these techniques, attenuated total reflection-Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR), energy-filtered transmission electron microscopy (EF-TEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), and X-ray diffraction (XRD) were utilised to analyse the CNCs. The findings indicated that the separated CNCs exhibited a rod-shaped morphology, measuring between 78 and 358 nm in length and 5 and 16 nm in diameter, and also exhibited high crystallinity (75–89%) and good thermal stability. The extracted CNCs were mixed with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and glycerol to assess their reinforcing effect on plastic films. The prepared composite film exhibited improved mechanical properties and thermal stability. Incorporating CNCs led to a 31.9% increase in the tensile strength and a 42.33% rise in the modulus of elasticity. The results from this research proved that CNCs can be extracted from postconsumer mixed fabrics as a potential solution to effectively address the mounting concerns surrounding waste management in the textile industry and also provide avenues for enhancing the qualities of eco-friendly composite films. Full article

The environmental physiognomy of an area can significantly diminish its aesthetic appeal, rendering it susceptible to visual pollution, the unbeaten scourge of modern urbanization. In this study, we propose using a deep learning network and a robotic vision system integrated with Google Street View to identify streets and textile-based visual pollution in Dhaka, the megacity of Bangladesh. The issue of visual pollution extends to the global apparel and textile industry, as well as to various common urban elements such as billboards, bricks, construction materials, street litter, communication towers, and entangled electric wires. Our data collection encompasses a wide array of visual pollution elements, including images of towers, cables, construction materials, street litter, cloth dumps, dyeing materials, and bricks. We employ two open-source tools to prepare and label our dataset: LabelImg and Roboflow. We develop multiple neural network models to swiftly and accurately identify and classify visual pollutants in this work, including Faster SegFormer, YOLOv5, YOLOv7, and EfficientDet. The tuna swarm optimization technique has been used to select the applied models’ final layers and corresponding hyperparameters. In terms of hardware, our proposed system comprises a Xiaomi-CMSXJ22A web camera, a 3.5-inch touchscreen display, and a Raspberry Pi 4B microcontroller. Subsequently, we program the microcontroller with the YOLOv5 model. Rigorous testing and trials are conducted on these deep learning models to evaluate their performance against various metrics, including accuracy, recall, regularization and classification losses, mAP, precision, and more. The proposed system for detecting and categorizing visual pollution within the textile industry and urban environments has achieved notable results. Notably, the YOLOv5 and YOLOv7 models achieved 98% and 92% detection accuracies, respectively. Finally, the YOLOv5 technique has been deployed into the Raspberry Pi edge device for instantaneous visual pollution detection. The proposed visual pollutants detection device can be easily mounted on various platforms (like vehicles or drones) and deployed in different urban environments for on-site, real-time monitoring. This mobility is crucial for comprehensive street-level data collection, potentially engaging local communities, schools, and universities in understanding and participating in environmental monitoring efforts. The comprehensive dataset on visual pollution will be published in the journal following the acceptance of our manuscript. Full article

The design of wearable antennas presents a challenge from multiple perspectives, as they must meet technical requirements and satisfy safety standards while also being suitable for integration into clothing and aesthetically pleasing. In recent years, the development of conductive fabrics has, in many ways, allowed for significant progress in the manufacturing of wearable antennas, and in previous work, we developed textile slotted waveguide antennas using conductive textiles and traditional sewing processes. However, various aspects of the design and realization of such antennas remain challenging. In particular, this work investigates the issue of using foam-based molds, which enables the realization of thin, flexible, wearable antennas, as well as the issue of antenna feed, specifically the transition from a classic coaxial transmission line to a waveguide. The design of the transition was focused on simplicity and robustness, due to which we limited the number of degrees of freedom in the design process in order to achieve a structure suitable for mounting on textile waveguide antennas. In addition, the antenna design procedure and the body-channel model were considered in order to optimize the performance of the antennas and the wireless body-centric system itself. Several prototypes of different kinds were developed in the 5.8 GHz ISM band, confirming the feasibility of the proposed concepts through experimental results. Full article

The urban logistic sector is struggling with the following two problems: a particularly high level of traffic and air pollution. For those reasons, small electric vehicles are the perfect technical solution to cope sustainably with the increasing parcel volume in urban areas. To compensate the weight disadvantage of electric drive, a textile lightweight solution for the body of logistics vehicles is examined in this study. Therefore, various textiles and mounting solutions are examined and developed, as well as tested by multiple testing procedures. The result of this work is an ideal combination of a textile and suitable mounting method for a textile lightweight body for last—mile logistic vehicles. Full article

An e-textile system was developed, allowing USB reprogramming of miniature, flexible, integrated microcontroller circuits which allows for easier development of complex and configurable e-textile circuits. This prototype consisted of a series of five exposed pads on the edge of the PCB and a corresponding clip connector. Mounted onto the clip are a micro-USB port and necessary additional components to facilitate USB programming meaning that no additional components are required on the microcontroller board thus increasing flexibility. This system has the potential to make software development and reconfiguration of the e-textile easier while the small size and flexibility of the connector allow improved textile integration. This work provides a platform for future e-textile system development and increases the operational lifetime, thus reducing waste due to product obsolescence. Full article

Although the accumulation of post-consumer textile waste represents a serious environmental problem, the commercial potential of recycling this waste in the US is less established. The purpose of this research is to investigate the business case for using this waste as an input to textile-to-textile recycling. This research has three main objectives: explore the dynamics between post-consumer waste traders and recyclers; investigate challenges to faster scaling of textile waste feedstocks and the processing of this waste into new fibers; and provide theoretical and practical foundations for effective interventions in this area. The study employs a grounded theory approach. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with eleven senior representatives from textile sorting and fiber recycling organizations with operations in the US. The results reveal that the primary barriers to progress are commercial in nature. There is no financial incentive to take actions needed to reduce environmental impact. As proposed, an expansion of market partnerships to broaden target feedstocks could allow the mounting waste problem to be meaningfully addressed. However, it is still unclear how infrastructure development in the US will be financed or conducted to address the identified barriers. Meanwhile, accumulation of textile waste in US landfills shows no signs of slowing down. Full article

In the framework of the ‘Amorepacific Project for the conservation of Korean pictorial art’ (2018–2023) at the British Museum, three traditional Korean paintings have been investigated with the aim of supporting their conservation and obtaining information about the dyes used in the mounting textiles and other mounting elements. The paintings include a rare example of late 18th-century traditional Korean portraiture (accession number 1996,0329,0.1); a late 19th-century two-panel screen silk painting of Pyeongsaeng-do-Scenes of life (accession number 2016,3028.1); and a late 19th-century twelve-panel screen silk painting representing the Five Confucian virtues (accession number 1957,1214,0.1). The mounting textiles were investigated non-invasively by using digital microscopy and fibre optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), and the results guided a minimally invasive sampling campaign. Fourteen samples were analysed by using high-pressure liquid chromatography coupled with diode array and tandem mass spectrometry detectors (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS), leading to the identification of the natural dyes indigo, sappanwood (Biancaea sappan, formerly Caesalpinia sappan), amur cork tree (Phellodendron amurense) and safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) in the mounting elements of the 18th-century portrait. These results confirmed some of the non-invasive observations and were in agreement with the production date of the painting. Both natural and synthetic dyes were identified in the mounting textiles of the panel screens. Among the synthetic dyes, fuchsin (C.I. 42510), methyl violet 3B (C.I. 42536), methyl blue (C.I. 42780) and benzopurpurin 4B (C.I. 23500) were identified. These are early synthetic dyes first synthesised between the 1860s and the 1880s, suggesting that the silk textiles are likely to have been dyed in the last part of the 19th century. Full article

The combination of flexible-printed substrates and conventional electronics leads to flexible hybrid electronics. When fabrics are used as flexible substrates, two kinds of problems arise. The first type is related to the printing of the tracks of the corresponding circuit. The second one concerns the incorporation of conventional electronic devices, such as integrated circuits, on the textile substrate. Regarding the printing of tracks, this work studies the optimal design parameters of screen-printed silver tracks on textiles focused on printing an electronic circuit on a textile substrate. Several patterns of different widths and gaps between tracks were tested in order to find the best design parameters for some footprint configurations. With respect to the incorporation of devices on textile substrates, the paper analyzes the soldering of surface mount devices on fabric substrates. Due to the substrate’s nature, low soldering temperatures must be used to avoid deformations or damage to the substrate caused by the higher temperatures used in conventional soldering. Several solder pastes used for low-temperature soldering are analyzed in terms of joint resistance and shear force application. The results obtained are satisfactory, demonstrating the viability of using flexible hybrid electronics with fabrics. As a practical result, a simple single-layer circuit was implemented to check the results of the research. Full article

In recent years, the interest in the Internet of Things (IoT) has been growing because this technology bridges the gap between the physical and virtual world, by connecting different objects and people through communication networks, in order to improve the quality of life. New IoT wearable devices require new types of antennas with unique shapes, made on unconventional substrates, which can be unobtrusively integrated into clothes and accessories. In this paper, we propose a fully textile dual-band logo antenna integrated with a reflector for application in IoT wearable devices. The proposed antenna’s radiating elements have been shaped to mimic the logo of South-West University “Neofit Rilski” for an unobtrusive integration in accessories. A reflector has been mounted on the opposite side of the textile substrate to reduce the radiation from the wearable antenna and improve its robustness against the loading effect from nearby objects. Two antenna prototypes were fabricated and tested in free space as well as on three different objects (human body, notebook, and laptop). Moreover, in the two frequency ranges of interest a radiation efficiency of 25–38% and 62–90% was achieved. Moreover, due to the reflector, the maximum local specific-absorption rate, which averaged over 10 g mass in the human-body phantom, was found to be equal to 0.5182 W/kg at 2.4 GHz and 0.16379 W/kg at 5.47 GHz. Additionally, the results from the performed measurement-campaign collecting received the signal-strength indicator and packet loss for an off-body scenario in real-world use, demonstrating that the backpack-integrated antenna prototype can form high-quality off-body communication channels. Full article

Aramid and polyamide cords are used in a wide range of applications, particularly in the automotive industry (tire reinforcement) and textile industry for military and fireguard purposes. The problem of the reliable experimental study of tensile behavior of synthetic cords is considered in this paper. In the available standards for synthetic cord testing, particularly ASTM D 885-03, the tensile test must result with the cord damage in the middle of gauge length, and the cords should be fixed in the machine clamps. The trial test gave damage near the clamps. We propose a novel testing stage mounted in the testing machine clamps to achieve the uniform tensile stress distribution in the gauge length of the measured cords. The results of the deformations were measured in two ways: using testing machine head displacement and a videoextensometer. Stress curves of four distinguished cords were evaluated and compared. The second method allowed to acquire results differing from the manufacturers’ data from 0.7% to 21.5%, which allowed for the conclusion that the designed test stand allows for obtaining reliable results for stretched cords. Full article