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Keywords = skin anti-wrinkling

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25 pages, 3359 KiB  
Article
In Vitro and In Silico Evaluation of the Anti-Aging Potential of Eugenia uniflora UAE Extracts
by Desy Muliana Wenas, Berna Elya, Sutriyo Sutriyo, Heri Setiawan, Rozana Othman, Syamsu Nur, Nita Triadisti, Fenny Yunita and Erwi Putri Setyaningsih
Molecules 2025, 30(15), 3168; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30153168 - 29 Jul 2025
Viewed by 437
Abstract
Skin aging is a natural biological process that can be accelerated by free radical induction, leading to a reduction in skin elasticity and the formation of wrinkles due to the depletion of elastin. Eugenia uniflora (dewandaru) is a promising plant believed to possess [...] Read more.
Skin aging is a natural biological process that can be accelerated by free radical induction, leading to a reduction in skin elasticity and the formation of wrinkles due to the depletion of elastin. Eugenia uniflora (dewandaru) is a promising plant believed to possess anti-aging properties, primarily attributed to its major constituents, myricitrin and quercetin. This study aimed to investigate the anti-elastase and antioxidant properties of Eugenia uniflora stem bark, ripe fruit, and seed extracts. Extracts were obtained using an ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) method with 70% ethanol. Quantitative phytochemical analysis involved measuring the total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and antioxidant activity. Bioactive constituents were identified using LC-MS analysis, and their interactions with target enzymes were further evaluated through in silico molecular docking. The results demonstrated that the E. uniflora seed extract exhibited the highest antioxidant activity, with an IC50 of 5.23 µg/mL (DPPH assay) and a FRAP value of 3233.32 µmol FeSO4/g. Furthermore, the ethanolic seed extract showed significant anti-elastase activity with an IC50 of 114.14 µg/mL. Molecular docking predicted strong potential for several compounds as pancreatic elastase inhibitors, including 5-phenylvaleric acid, 2-(3-phenylpropyl)phenol, n-amylbenzene, 2-aminoadipic acid, and traumatin, each showing a prediction activity (PA) value exceeding 0.6. Notably, these compounds also exhibited inhibitory activity against tyrosinase. These findings collectively underscore the significant promise of E. uniflora seed extract as a novel and natural candidate for pharmacocosmeceutical product development, particularly for anti-aging applications. Full article
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12 pages, 3205 KiB  
Article
Hibiscus Collagen Alternative (VC-H1) as an Oral Skin Rejuvenating Agent: A 12-Week Pilot Study
by Yujin Baek, Ngoc Ha Nguyen, Young In Lee, Min Joo Jung, In Ah Kim, Sung Jun Lee, Hyun Min Kim and Ju Hee Lee
Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2025, 26(15), 7291; https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms26157291 - 28 Jul 2025
Viewed by 588
Abstract
Skin aging causes reduced hydration, elasticity, and increased wrinkles. Recent safety and compliance concerns over oral collagen supplements have increased interest in plant-based alternatives like Hibiscus sabdariffa with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. However, clinical evidence regarding its efficacy remains limited. We aimed to [...] Read more.
Skin aging causes reduced hydration, elasticity, and increased wrinkles. Recent safety and compliance concerns over oral collagen supplements have increased interest in plant-based alternatives like Hibiscus sabdariffa with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. However, clinical evidence regarding its efficacy remains limited. We aimed to evaluate the effects of this plant-based collagen alternative (VC-H1, Hibiscus Enzyme Extract) supplement on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), desquamation, elasticity, and wrinkle reduction in photoaged individuals. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted with 98 participants (aged 35–60 years) presenting with dry skin and periorbital wrinkles. Participants randomly received 1.5 g/day of VC-H1 or placebo for 12 weeks. Skin hydration, TEWL, deep moisture, keratin index, elasticity, and wrinkle parameters were assessed at baseline, 6 weeks, and 12 weeks. VC-H1 supplementation significantly increased skin hydration, reduced the TEWL and keratin index, and improved deep moisture content for those receiving it compared with the controls. Wrinkle depth significantly decreased, and skin elasticity also improved. Those in the VC-H1 group showed greater overall improvement than those in the control group. Oral VC-H1 supplementation significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle reduction, suggesting its potential as a plant-based alternative to traditional collagen supplements for skin rejuvenation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Bioactives and Nutraceuticals)
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81 pages, 6368 KiB  
Review
A Comprehensive Review on the Valorization of Bioactives from Marine Animal By-Products for Health-Promoting, Biofunctional Cosmetics
by Sofia Neonilli A. Papadopoulou, Theodora Adamantidi, Dimitrios Kranas, Paschalis Cholidis, Chryssa Anastasiadou and Alexandros Tsoupras
Mar. Drugs 2025, 23(8), 299; https://doi.org/10.3390/md23080299 - 26 Jul 2025
Viewed by 386
Abstract
In recent decades, there has been a marked surge in the development of marine-by-product-derived ingredients for cosmetic applications, driven by the increasing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. Marine animal by-products, particularly those from fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, represent an abundant yet [...] Read more.
In recent decades, there has been a marked surge in the development of marine-by-product-derived ingredients for cosmetic applications, driven by the increasing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. Marine animal by-products, particularly those from fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, represent an abundant yet underutilized source of bioactive compounds with notable potential in cosmeceutical innovation. Generated as waste from the fishery and seafood-processing industries, these materials are rich in valuable bioactives, such as chitosan, collagen, peptides, amino acids, fatty acids, polar lipids, lipid-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, pigments, phenolics, and mineral-based substrates like hydroxyapatite. Marine by-product bioactives can be isolated via several extraction methods, and most importantly, green ones. These compounds exhibit a broad spectrum of skin-health-promoting effects, including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, anti-wrinkle, anti-hyperpigmentation, and wound-healing properties. Moreover, applications extend beyond skincare to include hair, nail, and oral care. The present review provides a comprehensive analysis of bioactives obtained from marine mollusks, crustaceans, and fish by-products, emphasizing modern extraction technologies with a focus on green and sustainable approaches. It further explores their mechanisms of action and documented efficacy in cosmetic formulations. Finally, the review outlines current limitations and offers future perspectives for the industrial valorization of marine by-products in functional and environmentally-conscious cosmetic development. Full article
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25 pages, 7428 KiB  
Article
Sialic Acid-Loaded Nanoliposomes with Enhanced Stability and Transdermal Delivery for Synergistic Anti-Aging, Skin Brightening, and Barrier Repair
by Fan Yang, Hua Wang, Dan Luo, Jun Deng, Yawen Hu, Zhi Liu and Wei Liu
Pharmaceutics 2025, 17(8), 956; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics17080956 - 24 Jul 2025
Viewed by 323
Abstract
Objectives: Sialic acid (SA), a naturally occurring compound abundantly found in birds’ nests, holds immense promise for skincare applications owing to its remarkable biological properties. However, its low bioavailability, poor stability, and limited skin permeability have constrained its widespread application. Methods: [...] Read more.
Objectives: Sialic acid (SA), a naturally occurring compound abundantly found in birds’ nests, holds immense promise for skincare applications owing to its remarkable biological properties. However, its low bioavailability, poor stability, and limited skin permeability have constrained its widespread application. Methods: To overcome these challenges, SA was encapsulated within nanoliposomes (NLPs) by the high-pressure homogenization technique to develop an advanced and efficient transdermal drug delivery system. The skincare capabilities of this novel system were comprehensively evaluated across multiple experimental platforms, including in vitro cell assays, 3D skin models, in vivo zebrafish studies, and clinical human trials. Results: The SA-loaded NLPs (SA-NLPs) substantially improved the transdermal penetration and retention of SA, facilitating enhanced cellular uptake and cell proliferation. Compared to free SA, SA-NLPs demonstrated a 246.98% increase in skin retention and 1.8-fold greater cellular uptake in HDF cells. Moreover, SA-NLPs protected cells from oxidative stress-induced damage, stimulated collagen synthesis, and effectively suppressed the secretion of matrix metalloproteinases, tyrosinase activity, and melanin production. Additionally, zebrafish-based assays provided in vivo evidence of the skincare efficacy of SA-NLPs. Notably, clinical evaluations demonstrated that a 56-day application of the SA-NLPs-containing cream resulted in a 4.20% increase in L*, 7.87% decrease in b*, 8.45% decrease in TEWL, and 4.01% reduction in wrinkle length, indicating its superior brightening, barrier-repair, and anti-aging effects. Conclusions: This multi-level, systematic investigation strongly suggests that SA-NLPs represent a highly promising transdermal delivery strategy, capable of significantly enhancing the anti-aging, barrier-repair, and skin-brightening properties of SA, thus opening new avenues for its application in the fields of dermatology and cosmeceuticals. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lipid/Polymer-Based Drug Delivery Systems)
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23 pages, 8387 KiB  
Article
Solvent Fractionation of Polygonum cuspidatum Sieb. et Zucc. for Antioxidant, Biological Activity, and Chromatographic Characterization
by Yuchen Cheng, Yuri Kang and Woonjung Kim
Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2025, 26(14), 7011; https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms26147011 - 21 Jul 2025
Viewed by 330
Abstract
This study investigated the natural bioactive compounds in Polygonum cuspidatum Sieb. et Zucc. (P. cuspidatum) by fractionating a 70% ethanol extract using n-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, and water. The total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of each fraction were [...] Read more.
This study investigated the natural bioactive compounds in Polygonum cuspidatum Sieb. et Zucc. (P. cuspidatum) by fractionating a 70% ethanol extract using n-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, and water. The total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of each fraction were determined, and their antioxidant activities were evaluated using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP assays. Additionally, the anti-diabetic potential was assessed via α-glucosidase inhibitory activity, while anti-obesity activity was evaluated using lipase inhibitory activity. The fractions were also tested for tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities to assess their skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle potential, and their antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa was determined using the agar diffusion method. Finally, bioactive compounds were identified and quantified using HPLC and GC–MSD. The results showed that the ethyl acetate fraction possessed the highest total polyphenol content (0.53 ± 0.01 g GAE/g) and total flavonoid content (0.19 ± 0.02 g QE/g). It also exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with the lowest DPPH radical scavenging IC50 (0.01 ± 0.00 mg/mL), ABTS radical scavenging IC50 (0.06 ± 0.00 mg/mL), and the highest FRAP value (6.02 ± 0.30 mM Fe2+/mg). Moreover, it demonstrated potent enzyme inhibitory activities, including tyrosinase inhibitory activity (67.78 ± 2.50%), elastase inhibitory activity (83.84 ± 1.64%), α-glucosidase inhibitory activity (65.14 ± 10.29%), and lipase inhibitory activity (85.79 ± 1.04%). In the antibacterial activity, the ethyl acetate fraction produced a clear inhibitory zone of 19.50 mm against Staphylococcus aureus, indicating notable antibacterial activity. HPLC-PDA and GC–MSD analyses identified tannic acid and emodin as the major bioactive constituents. These findings suggest that the ethyl acetate fraction of P. cuspidatum extract, rich in polyphenol and flavonoid compounds, is a promising natural source of bioactive ingredients for applications in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Further research is needed to explore its mechanisms and therapeutic applications. Full article
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16 pages, 1093 KiB  
Article
Topical Application of Bio-Pulsed Avian MSC-Derived Extracellular Vesicles Enhances Hair Regrowth and Skin Rejuvenation: Evidence from Clinical Evaluation and miRNA Profiling
by Ju-Sheng Shieh, Yu-Tang Chin, Tsu-Te Yeh, Jiong Jiong Guo, Fung-Wei Chang, Hui-Rong Cheng, Hung-Han Hsu, Wei-Lun Huang, Han-Hsiang Huang, Ya-Yu Hsieh, Chien-Ping Chiang and Shih-Ching Wang
Curr. Issues Mol. Biol. 2025, 47(7), 539; https://doi.org/10.3390/cimb47070539 - 11 Jul 2025
Viewed by 533
Abstract
Small extracellular vesicles (sEVs) derived from mesenchymal stem cells have emerged as promising therapeutic agents in regenerative dermatology. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of Bio-Pulsed avian mesenchymal stem cell-derived sEVs (AMSC-sEVs), topically applied for hair follicle stimulation and skin rejuvenation. Two [...] Read more.
Small extracellular vesicles (sEVs) derived from mesenchymal stem cells have emerged as promising therapeutic agents in regenerative dermatology. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of Bio-Pulsed avian mesenchymal stem cell-derived sEVs (AMSC-sEVs), topically applied for hair follicle stimulation and skin rejuvenation. Two prospective, single-arm clinical trials were conducted: one involving 30 participants using a hair ampoule over 60 days, and the other involving 30 participants applying a facial essence for 28 days. Objective measurements demonstrated significant improvements in the anagen/telogen hair ratio, reduced shedding, increased collagen density, and reduced wrinkle depth and pigmentation. Small RNA sequencing and qPCR profiling confirmed that Bio-Pulsed AMSC-sEVs were enriched with regenerative microRNAs, such as miR-21-5p and miR-199a-5p, associated with anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects. No adverse events were reported. These findings suggest that Bio-Pulsed AMSC-sEVs may offer a safe, non-invasive, and cell-free approach to enhance skin and hair regeneration in human subjects. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Biochemistry, Molecular and Cellular Biology)
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29 pages, 1189 KiB  
Review
Decoding Skin Aging: A Review of Mechanisms, Markers, and Modern Therapies
by Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez, Stefano Bacci, Maria Luisa Hernandez-Bule, Alfonso Perez-Gonzalez and Montserrat Fernandez-Guarino
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 144; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040144 - 10 Jul 2025
Viewed by 1818
Abstract
Skin aging is a multifactorial process driven by both intrinsic mechanisms—such as telomere shortening, oxidative stress, hormonal decline, and impaired autophagy—and extrinsic influences including ultraviolet radiation, pollution, smoking, and diet. Together, these factors lead to the structural and functional deterioration of the skin, [...] Read more.
Skin aging is a multifactorial process driven by both intrinsic mechanisms—such as telomere shortening, oxidative stress, hormonal decline, and impaired autophagy—and extrinsic influences including ultraviolet radiation, pollution, smoking, and diet. Together, these factors lead to the structural and functional deterioration of the skin, manifesting as wrinkles, pigmentation disorders, thinning, and reduced elasticity. This review provides an integrative overview of the biological, molecular, and clinical dimensions of skin aging, emphasizing the interplay between inflammation, extracellular matrix degradation, and senescence-associated signaling pathways. We examine histopathological hallmarks and molecular markers and discuss the influence of genetic and ethnic variations on aging phenotypes. Current therapeutic strategies are explored, ranging from topical agents (e.g., retinoids, antioxidants, niacinamide) to procedural interventions such as lasers, intense pulsed light, photodynamic therapy, microneedling, and injectable biostimulators. Special attention is given to emerging approaches such as microneedle delivery systems, with mention of exosome-based therapies. The review underscores the importance of personalized anti-aging regimens based on biological age, phototype, and lifestyle factors. As the field advances, integrating mechanistic insights with individualized treatment selection will be key to optimizing skin rejuvenation and preserving long-term dermal health. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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16 pages, 1441 KiB  
Article
Clinical Efficacy and Safety Evaluation of a Centella asiatica (CICA)-Derived Extracellular Vesicle Formulation for Anti-Aging Skincare
by Hannah S. Park and Sehyun Shin
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 135; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040135 - 25 Jun 2025
Viewed by 1573
Abstract
Centella asiatica (CICA)-derived exosomes have emerged as bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation due to their regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a topical ampoule containing CICA-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) in healthy Korean adults. This human application study [...] Read more.
Centella asiatica (CICA)-derived exosomes have emerged as bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation due to their regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a topical ampoule containing CICA-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) in healthy Korean adults. This human application study was conducted over a 15-day period, during which the test formulation was topically applied to the skin following a controlled regimen. A 24-h patch test with 30 participants confirmed non-irritation (irritation index: 0.00). In a separate two-week trial (n = 20; mean age 50.7 years), 3D imaging and ultrasound assessed five-dimensional pore improvement (area, density, volume, filling, texture), wrinkle depth reduction in five facial regions, dermal hydration at 0.5, 1.5, and 2.5 mm depths, and skin density. Significant reductions were observed in mean pore area (−17.9%) and pore density (−26.9%), with a 9.0% decrease in surface roughness. Wrinkle depths decreased by 7.8–18.8% across the forehead, glabella, crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, and neck. Hydration increased by 7.9% at 0.5 mm, and dermal density improved by 12.7% (p < 0.05). These findings highlight the excellent skin compatibility and multifaceted cosmetic benefits of the formulation containing CICA-derived exosomes and other active ingredients, underscoring its potential as a safe, effective, and innovative anti-aging cosmetic agent. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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37 pages, 5930 KiB  
Article
The Effectiveness of a Topical Rosehip Oil Treatment on Facial Skin Characteristics: A Pilot Study on Wrinkles, UV Spots Reduction, Erythema Mitigation, and Age-Related Signs
by Diana Patricia Oargă (Porumb), Mihaiela Cornea-Cipcigan, Silvia Amalia Nemeș and Mirela Irina Cordea
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 125; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030125 - 16 Jun 2025
Viewed by 3176
Abstract
Skin aging is a complex process influenced by several factors, including UV exposure, environmental stressors, and lifestyle choices. The demand for effective, natural skincare products has driven research into plant-based oils rich in bioactive compounds. Rosehip oil has garnered attention for its high [...] Read more.
Skin aging is a complex process influenced by several factors, including UV exposure, environmental stressors, and lifestyle choices. The demand for effective, natural skincare products has driven research into plant-based oils rich in bioactive compounds. Rosehip oil has garnered attention for its high content of carotenoids, phenolics, and antioxidants, which are known for their anti-aging, photoprotective, and skin-rejuvenating properties. Despite the growing interest in rosehip oil, limited studies have investigated its efficacy on human skin using advanced imaging technologies. This study aims to fill this gap by evaluating the efficacy of cold-pressed Rosa canina seed oil on facial skin characteristics, specifically wrinkles, ultraviolet (UV) spot reduction, and erythema mitigation, using imaging technologies (the VISIA analysis system). Seed oil pressed from R. canina collected from the Băișoara area of Cluj County has been selected for this study due to its high carotenoid, phenolic, and antioxidant contents. The oil has also been analyzed for the content of individual carotenoids (i.e., lutein, lycopene, β Carotene, and zeaxanthin) using HPLC-DAD (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography—Diode Array Detector), along with lutein and zeaxanthin esters and diesters. After the preliminary screening of multiple Rosa species for carotenoid, phenolic, and antioxidant contents, the R. canina sample with the highest therapeutic potential was selected. A cohort of 27 volunteers (aged 30–65) underwent a five-week treatment protocol, wherein three drops of the selected rosehip oil were topically applied to the face daily. The VISIA imaging was conducted before and after the treatment to evaluate changes in skin parameters, including the wrinkle depth, UV-induced spots, porphyrins, and texture. Regarding the bioactivities, rosehip oil showed a significant total carotenoids content (28.398 μg/mL), with the highest levels in the case of the β-carotene (4.49 μg/mL), lutein (4.33 μg/mL), and zexanthin (10.88 μg/mL) contents. Results indicated a significant reduction in mean wrinkle scores across several age groups, with notable improvements in individuals with deeper baseline wrinkles. UV spots also showed visible declines, suggesting ideal photoprotective and anti-pigmentary effects attributable to the oil’s high vitamin A and carotenoid content. Porphyrin levels, often correlated with bacterial activity, decreased in most subjects, hinting at an additional antimicrobial or microbiome-modulatory property. However, skin responses varied, possibly due to individual differences in skin sensitivity, environmental factors, or compliance with sun protection. Overall, the topical application of R. canina oil appeared to improve the facial skin quality, reduce the appearance of age-related markers, and support skin health. These findings reinforce the potential use of rosehip oil in anti-aging skincare formulations. Further long-term, large-scale studies are warranted to refine dosing regimens, investigate mechanisms of action, and explore synergistic effects with other bioactive compounds. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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27 pages, 7392 KiB  
Article
Skin-Whitening, Antiwrinkle, and Moisturizing Effects of Astilboides tabularis (Hemsl.) Engl. Root Extracts in Cell-Based Assays and Three-Dimensional Artificial Skin Models
by Nam Ho Yoo, Hyun Sook Lee, Sung Min Park, Young Sun Baek and Myong Jo Kim
Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2025, 26(12), 5725; https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms26125725 - 15 Jun 2025
Viewed by 545
Abstract
This study investigated the potential cosmetic properties of the ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction obtained from the roots of Astilboides tabularis (Hemsl.) Engl., focusing on skin-whitening, antiwrinkle, and moisturizing effects using cell-based assays and three-dimensional (3D) artificial skin models (Neoderm-ED and Neoderm-ME). The EtOAc [...] Read more.
This study investigated the potential cosmetic properties of the ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction obtained from the roots of Astilboides tabularis (Hemsl.) Engl., focusing on skin-whitening, antiwrinkle, and moisturizing effects using cell-based assays and three-dimensional (3D) artificial skin models (Neoderm-ED and Neoderm-ME). The EtOAc fraction showed significant dose-dependent inhibitory activity against tyrosinase (TYR) (72.0% inhibition at 50 µg/mL), comparable to that of kojic acid. In α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated Neoderm-ME artificial skin containing melanocytes, the EtOAc fraction reduced melanin synthesis at concentrations of 50 and 75 µg/mL and decreased melanogenesis-related gene expression, including TYR, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1) and TRP-2. In the antiwrinkle assays, the EtOAc fraction effectively inhibited elastase activity (41.5% inhibition at 10 µg/mL), exceeding the efficacy of ursolic acid. In the Neoderm-ED artificial skin model, the EtOAc fraction reversed structural damage induced by particulate matter (PM10), restoring epidermal thickness and dermal density. This improvement was supported by the increased expression of skin barrier and antiwrinkle genes, including filaggrin, hyaluronic acid synthase-1 (HAS-1), HAS-2, aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), collagen type I alpha 1 chain (COL1A1), elastin, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases-1 (TIMP-1), and TIMP-2, as well as decreased expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9). Our results indicate that the EtOAc fraction from A. tabularis root has considerable potential as a multifunctional cosmetic. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Bioactives and Nutraceuticals)
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12 pages, 228 KiB  
Review
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in Cosmeceuticals—A Review of Skin Permeability and Efficacy
by Julita Zdrada-Nowak, Agnieszka Surgiel-Gemza and Magdalena Szatkowska
Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2025, 26(12), 5722; https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms26125722 - 14 Jun 2025
Viewed by 2595
Abstract
Biomimetic peptides represent a growing class of active ingredients in modern cosmeceuticals, designed to mimic the function of the naturally occurring peptides involved in skin homeostasis, repair, and regeneration. Among them, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AH-8), often referred to as a “botox-like” peptide, has received [...] Read more.
Biomimetic peptides represent a growing class of active ingredients in modern cosmeceuticals, designed to mimic the function of the naturally occurring peptides involved in skin homeostasis, repair, and regeneration. Among them, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AH-8), often referred to as a “botox-like” peptide, has received considerable attention for its potential to dynamically reduce wrinkles through the modulation of neuromuscular activity. AH-8 is widely used in topical formulations intended for anti-aging effects, scar treatment, and skin rejuvenation. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the structure and proposed mechanisms of action of AH-8, with particular focus on its efficacy and skin penetration properties. Due to its hydrophilic nature and relatively large molecular size, AH-8 faces limited permeability through the lipophilic stratum corneum, making effective dermal delivery challenging. Formulation strategies such as oil-in-water (O/W) and multiple water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsions have been explored to enhance its delivery, but the ability of AH-8 to reach neuromuscular junctions remains uncertain. Preclinical and clinical studies indicate that AH-8 may reduce wrinkle depth, improve skin elasticity, and enhance hydration. However, the precise biological mechanisms underlying these effects—particularly the peptide’s ability to inhibit muscle contraction when applied topically—remain incompletely understood. In some studies, AH-8 has also shown beneficial effects in scar remodeling and sebum regulation. Despite promising cosmetic outcomes, AH-8’s low skin penetration limits its bioavailability and therapeutic potential. This review emphasizes the need for further research on formulation science and delivery systems, which are essential for optimizing the effectiveness of peptide-based cosmeceuticals and validating their use as non-invasive alternatives to injectable treatments. Full article
24 pages, 2342 KiB  
Article
Topically Applied Molecular Hydrogen Normalizes Skin Parameters Associated with Oxidative Stress: A Pilot Study
by Natalia Debkowska, Marek Niczyporuk, Arkadiusz Surazynski and Katarzyna Wolosik
Antioxidants 2025, 14(6), 729; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox14060729 - 14 Jun 2025
Viewed by 1549
Abstract
Topical application of molecular hydrogen (H2) has recently emerged as a promising strategy to counteract oxidative stress-related skin damage. This pilot clinical study aimed to assess the efficacy of hydrogen-rich water treatments in improving objective skin parameters in healthy adults. The [...] Read more.
Topical application of molecular hydrogen (H2) has recently emerged as a promising strategy to counteract oxidative stress-related skin damage. This pilot clinical study aimed to assess the efficacy of hydrogen-rich water treatments in improving objective skin parameters in healthy adults. The hypothesis was that H2, through its selective antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, would reduce oxidative stress, modulate inflammatory pathways, and enhance skin barrier integrity, leading to measurable improvements in skin appearance. Fifteen participants received topical treatments with hydrogen-rich water for four weeks. Skin parameters, including porphyrin levels, pigmentation irregularities, pore size, wrinkle severity, and biological skin age, were quantitatively assessed before and one week post-treatment. A statistically significant reduction in pore visibility was observed, particularly in younger participants. Although porphyrin levels showed a trend toward reduction, this change was not statistically significant. Improvements were also noted in pigmentation, wrinkle severity, and estimated biological skin age. The treatment was well tolerated, with no adverse effects reported. Despite promising outcomes, this study was limited by the absence of a control group and a relatively short follow-up period. Further controlled studies with larger sample sizes and molecular biomarker analyses are needed to confirm these effects and elucidate the underlying mechanisms. This study addresses a gap in the literature regarding standardized, clinical evaluation of topical H2 application and highlights its potential for utilization in cosmetic and preventive dermatology. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Antioxidants for Skin Health)
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11 pages, 735 KiB  
Article
Effects of Hawthorn Fruit Supplementation on Facial Skin Phenotypes and Leukocyte Telomere Length Stratified by TERT Polymorphisms
by Minju Kim and Inkyung Baik
Nutrients 2025, 17(12), 1983; https://doi.org/10.3390/nu17121983 - 12 Jun 2025
Viewed by 587
Abstract
Objectives: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled intervention study aimed to evaluate whether hawthorn fruit (HF) supplementation can influence facial skin phenotypes and leukocyte telomere length (TL) and whether these effects differ by genetic polymorphisms related to TL. Participants/Methods: Among 41 male and female adults [...] Read more.
Objectives: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled intervention study aimed to evaluate whether hawthorn fruit (HF) supplementation can influence facial skin phenotypes and leukocyte telomere length (TL) and whether these effects differ by genetic polymorphisms related to TL. Participants/Methods: Among 41 male and female adults aged 25–75 years who participated in the study, 36 completed initial and follow-up examinations over 6 months. The HF supplementation group (n = 17) was instructed to take a powdered HF supplement (900 mg/day), while controls (n = 19) were to take a cornstarch placebo (900 mg/day). Facial skin phenotypes, including pigmentation, pores, hydration, wrinkles, and elasticity, were measured before and after the intervention, and changes in these phenotype scores were calculated. Sequencing of telomerase reverse transcriptase (TERT) polymorphisms, such as rs7705526 (C>A) and rs2853669 (A>G), was conducted. Results: The HF supplementation group exhibited significantly improved hydration scores compared to the control group; the mean changes (follow-up measure—baseline measure) [standard deviation] in hydration scores over 6 months were 1.71 [8.18] and −3.00 [8.42] for the supplementation group and control group, respectively (p < 0.05) (Cohen’s d = 0.57). However, changes in other phenotypes and leukocyte TL were similar between groups. The genotype-specific analysis revealed that the improvement of hydration state was most noticeable among carriers with the CC genotype of rs7705526 (p < 0.05) (Cohen’s d = 1.50) and that the HF supplementation group exhibited reduced wrinkle scores while the control group showed increased scores among carriers of the AA genotype of rs2853669 (p < 0.05) (Cohen’s d = 1.40). In correlation analysis for all participants, hydration scores were positively correlated with leukocyte TL (Spearman correlation coefficient: 0.36; p < 0.05). Conclusions: These findings suggest that HF consumption may have potential anti-skin-aging effects. Future studies may need to elucidate the biological mechanisms underlying these effects. Full article
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21 pages, 1220 KiB  
Review
Spirulina as a Key Ingredient in the Evolution of Eco-Friendly Cosmetics
by Sergiana dos Passos Ramos, Monize Bürck, Stephanie Fabrícia Francisco da Costa, Marcelo Assis and Anna Rafaela Cavalcante Braga
BioTech 2025, 14(2), 41; https://doi.org/10.3390/biotech14020041 - 30 May 2025
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1972
Abstract
Limnospira spp., commercially known as spirulina, is widely recognized for its remarkable benefits due to its rich composition of bioactive compounds like phycobiliproteins, carotenoids, and phenolic compounds. These natural bioactive compounds not only serve as colorants but also offer potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, [...] Read more.
Limnospira spp., commercially known as spirulina, is widely recognized for its remarkable benefits due to its rich composition of bioactive compounds like phycobiliproteins, carotenoids, and phenolic compounds. These natural bioactive compounds not only serve as colorants but also offer potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, anticancer, antimicrobial, and anti-aging properties. As a result, spirulina and its components are increasingly used in cosmetic formulations to promote skin hydration, reduce wrinkles, and protect against UV radiation damage. Its bioactive components enhance fibroblast growth, boost collagen production, and prevent premature skin aging by inhibiting enzymes responsible for elastin degradation. Additionally, spirulina-based cosmetics have demonstrated wound-healing properties without genotoxic effects, with formulations containing C-phycocyanin particularly effective in shielding skin cells from UV-induced apoptosis. Despite these well-established benefits, there remains significant potential for the cosmetic industry to harness spirulina’s capabilities further. Research into the molecular mechanisms underlying its bioactive compounds in cosmetic formulations is still in its early stages, offering many opportunities for innovation. Emerging fields of biotechnology, such as nanotechnology and biocosmetics, could enhance the stability, efficacy, and delivery of spirulina-based ingredients, unlocking new possibilities for skin protection and rejuvenation. Furthermore, its proven biological properties align perfectly with the increasing consumer demand for safe, sustainable, and nature-inspired skincare solutions. Full article
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14 pages, 2252 KiB  
Article
Molecular and Human In Vivo Study of an Innovative Plant-Derived Multifunctional Peptide Signaling the Collagen and Elastin Pathways and Melanin Production
by Carlotta Bollati, Melissa Fanzaga, Lorenza d’Adduzio and Carmen Lammi
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 100; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030100 - 15 May 2025
Viewed by 1483
Abstract
Chrono Control Penta is a novel plant derived multifunctional bioactive peptide, which offer a tailored targeted approach to skin health by addressing both pigmentation and aging. Chrono Control Penta inhibits tyrosinase with an IC50 value of 202.8 µM. Additionally, it significantly increased [...] Read more.
Chrono Control Penta is a novel plant derived multifunctional bioactive peptide, which offer a tailored targeted approach to skin health by addressing both pigmentation and aging. Chrono Control Penta inhibits tyrosinase with an IC50 value of 202.8 µM. Additionally, it significantly increased collagen (+87.53%) and elastin (+61.29%) production and secretion (+66.29% and +69.74%, respectively) and decreased the Matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and MMP-2 secretion in aged human dermal fibroblasts, vs. aging condition. At the clinical level, Chrono Control Penta was demonstrated to be already active after 2 weeks, promoting a 9.3% reduction in pigmentation after 6 weeks of use, showing its efficacy in promoting skin complexion. Furthermore, it exhibited significant moisturizing (13.05%), anti-wrinkle (11.55%), and purifying effects (12.45%), as well as firming effects (6.35%), after 6 weeks. The peptide was also well tolerated, with no adverse effects reported in clinical patch tests. This timely study presents novel research on a plant derived peptide, Chrono Control Penta, a significantly contribution to the burgeoning cosmetic peptide market. Our rigorous findings make it a new powerful ingredient, offering a comprehensive solution for skin health, and establishing a strong foundation for future research and application. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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