Search Results (94)

The cosmetic industry is growing at an impressive rate worldwide. In the cosmetic field, natural-origin ingredients represent the new frontier in this industry. Among the main components of cosmetics, lipids, emulsifiers, rheological modifiers, preservatives, colorants, and antioxidants can be found. These compounds form emulsions, which are among the main cosmetic formulations. An important aspect in this regard is the evaluation of emulsions’ stability over time and emulsions’ production methodology. In this paper, a comparison is made between two emulsion production technologies, the Standard and the “One-Pot” methods, through the characterization of the raw material ABWAX^® Revomul, a multifunctional wax for cosmetic use which consists of a low-melting structuring wax of vegetal origin (Rhus wax) and a natural emulsifier (Polyglyceril-3 Stearate). First, we evaluated the affinity between the wax raw materials and emollients of different chemical nature; then, we analyzed the impact of the production method on the emulsions to identify similarities and differences. ABWAX^® Revomul demonstrated a high level of effectiveness in regard to stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions. This study suggests that from an industrial point of view, the application of the two procedures allows products with different characteristics to be obtained, consequently allowing a specific method to be chosen to obtain the desired product. Full article

Background/Objectives: The treatment of atopic dermatitis frequently involves using a topical corticosteroid and a moisturizer. While the sequential application of these products is a common dermatological practice, their influence on drug penetration remains poorly understood. There is no clear evidence on how hydration, application sequence, and massage affect cutaneous drug delivery. Hence, this study aimed to evaluate the effects of formulation type, moisturizer composition, application sequence, and mechanical stimulation on betamethasone dipropionate (BET) cutaneous penetration. Methods: Two commercial formulations (cream and ointment) of BET were evaluated in different experimental conditions, including drug application combined with moisturizers (Cetaphil^®, as an emollient; Nivea^®, as an occlusive) pre- or post-application, with or without a 30 s massage. In vitro skin penetration assays were conducted for 12 h using porcine skin mounted in modified Franz diffusion cells. BET levels were extracted from the skin layers and quantified by HPLC. Results: The cutaneous BET penetration was strongly influenced by the application sequence, type of moisturizer, and mechanical stimuli. Pre-application of an occlusive or emollient moisturizer, followed by 30 s physical stimuli, significantly enhanced drug retention in the stratum corneum. For the cream, pre-application of moisturizers followed by massage notably increased BET levels in both the stratum corneum and viable skin. Conversely, post-application of moisturizers hindered BET absorption. The ointment showed limited penetration across all conditions, with no drug detected in the viable skin. Conclusions: The results showed pre-hydrating the skin, combined with a 30 s massage, was the best strategy for BET diffusion into the skin following cream administration. The formulation type and the order of application directly influence the effectiveness of drug therapy and the topical absorption of BET. Full article

Vulvar hygiene is an important part of general hygiene: the goals are to clear the vulvar area of microbial and cellular debris and vaginal and fecal secretions, ensure local comfort, provide natural levels of hydration, and protect the vulvar microbiota. There are few national and international guidelines on vulvar hygiene. We searched the PubMed database up until 30 November 2024, using logical combinations of the following terms: hygiene, washing, vulva, vulvar, microbiota, hydration, syndet, soap, detergent, water, and customs. The abstracts were reviewed, and potentially relevant full-text articles were retrieved and examined. The subregions of the vulva vary with regard to the presence of sweat and sebaceous glands, the keratin content, the water content, the pH, and the microbiota (notably Lactobacillus, Corynebacterium, Staphylococcus, and Prevotella). An alteration in the vulvar microbiota can cause an imbalance in the vaginal microbiota, and vice versa. Vaginal douching may have negative effects on vulvar microbiota. Hair removal might increase the risk of long-term dermatological complications. Repeated washing with water alone exposes the stratum corneum to damage, and washing with soap alters the stratum corneum proteins and lipids, increases skin water loss, and accentuates the risk of irritation. Syndet-based products have a mild detergent effect, promotion of hydration, a suitable pH for the vulvar area, and protection of the vulvar microbiota. Syndet-based products (containing a blend of surfactants, emollients, antioxidants, and buffering agents) appear to be the most appropriate for vulvar care. Full article

Squalane (SQ, a saturated, sebum-mimetic hydrocarbon), oleic acid (OA, a monounsaturated fatty acid), and linoleic acid (LA, a polyunsaturated essential fatty acid) belong to the category of “lipids and fats” in cosmetic materials, and are widely employed as skin-conditioning emollients. However, they present differences in UV stress. In this study, we compared their effects on UV-induced oxidative damage, inflammation, and lipid metabolism using a mouse model and human sebaceous gland cells (SZ95). Results showed that 10% SQ did not worsen oxidative damage or inflammation after 6 weeks of UV exposure. In contrast, the 5% and 10% OA/LA groups showed increased skin wrinkling (p < 0.01), epidermal thickening (p < 0.05), and sebaceous gland atrophy. Transcriptome analysis indicated OA/LA upregulated arachidonic acid-related cytokine pathways (PTGS2/IL-1β; p < 0.001). In SZ95 cells, 0.006% OA/LA significantly increased lipid droplet formation (p < 0.001), free fatty acid (FFA) levels (p < 0.001), and pro-inflammatory gene expression (p < 0.001). Conversely, SQ neither promoted lipid droplet/FFA secretion nor induced oxidative stress. These findings suggest that high concentrations of unsaturated fatty acids in skincare may worsen lipid dysregulation and inflammation, while formulations based on saturated hydrocarbons like SQ could provide superior photoaging management by stabilizing skin barrier function. Full article

Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease with a complex clinical picture that remains incurable and requires ongoing dermatological care. The purpose of this literature review is to identify the latest therapeutic strategies used to treat psoriasis, taking into account both the efficacy of modern approaches and their impact on patients’ quality of life. The cornerstone of psoriasis treatment remains regular skin care through the use of emollients, which support the effectiveness of other topical therapies used such as corticosteroids. In addition, the review presents current epidemiological data on the prevalence of psoriasis worldwide, with a focus on European countries and Poland. The article discusses innovative approaches in therapy, including targeted biologics, modern forms of topical therapy, and the role of emollients in comprehensive skin care, as well as various cosmetological treatments aimed at removing the excessively accumulated stratum corneum, and improving the degree of hydration of psoriatic skin. The review also included current expert recommendations and guidelines from scientific societies that guide the treatment and care of psoriatic skin. The results of the analyses underscore the need for targeted therapies and the importance of a holistic approach to patient care. As the collected data indicate, the possibilities for effective topical and systemic treatment of psoriasis are increasing all the time due to research into newer and newer active substances that are expected to improve the efficacy of treatment, the comfort of life for psoriasis patients and reduce the side effects of long-term therapy. Full article

Over the past decades, atopic diseases have emerged as a growing global health concern. The Global Report on Atopic Dermatitis 2022 estimated that approximately 223 million people worldwide were living with atopic dermatitis in 2022, with around 43 million being children or adolescents. The financial burden associated with the treatment of this condition poses a significant challenge for both healthcare systems and patients. The current therapeutic approach for atopic diseases primarily focuses on symptomatic management, aiming to mitigate the effects of an overactive immune system. The most widely used treatments include topical or systemic corticosteroids, which suppress inflammation, and emollients, which help restore the skin barrier function. However, prolonged corticosteroid use is associated with adverse effects, including impaired immune response and reduced ability to combat external and internal threats. Consequently, there is a growing interest in developing alternative therapeutic strategies for managing atopic dermatitis. Among these emerging treatments, hyperbaric oxygen therapy (HBOT) appears particularly promising. HBOT has a beneficial effect on the vascular and immune systems, which results in improved functioning of tissues and organs. This therapy has demonstrated efficacy in promoting wound healing, particularly in conditions such as thermal burns and diabetic foot ulcers. Given these properties, HBOT is being tested as a potential adjunctive therapy for atopic dermatitis and other allergy-related diseases. In this paper, we present the current state of knowledge regarding the application of HBOT in the treatment of atopic and immune-mediated conditions, with a focus on its immunomodulatory and regenerative effects. Full article

A significant number of UK fire fatalities have been reported to involve textiles contaminated with emollients. In the following study, the flammability of a variety of fabrics containing 14 different emollients, including paraffin-free creams, was evaluated. This is the first time the impact of the presence of such a large range of emollients has been examined. Horizontal burn tests were conducted on emollient-contaminated fabrics. Significantly earlier ignition time were noted upon heating for all emollient-contaminated fabrics (p < 0.001) when compared to the behaviour of blank fabrics were noted using a vertical burn test. The mean time to ignition for 100% cotton fabric (151 ± 2 g/m²) was reduced from 71.5 to 14.4 s and for 52%/48% polyester/cotton fabric (103 ± 2 g/m²) from 328 to 12.9 s by the presence of emollients. Horizontal burn tests with a direct flame on 100% cotton fabric (114 ± 1 g/m²) displayed an accelerated mean flame speed from 0.0032 to 0.0048 ms⁻¹ and an increased maximum flame height of 56.6 to 175.4 mm for emollient-contaminated fabrics. These findings demonstrate the fire risk of fabrics contaminated with a dried emollient. Their potential to ignite quickly and to propagate a fire may strongly decrease the reaction time of an impacted individual. Therefore, it is important that this risk and appropriate safety advice be continually highlighted and communicated not only in the UK but worldwide. Full article

Emollients are multifunctional, water-insoluble ingredients used in cosmetic products. This study aims to define the chemical and physical characteristics and test the activities of a new ester-based emollient, Sharofeel DS (DS), in comparison with other commonly used emollients (fatty alcohols, esters, and silicone emollients). The new entity was synthesized from naturally derived reactants and designed to be utilized in different cosmetic applications, such as skin care, hair care, and makeup. Methods: The emollient was characterized on the basis of its physical properties (Ultraviolet/Infrared (UV/IR) analysis, density, dynamic viscosity, refractive index, surface tension, and contact angle), calorimetric properties by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and differential scanning calorimetry analysis (DSC), viscoelastic properties as is and in emulsion, and toxicity tests. According to the results obtained, DS demonstrated density (0.881 g/mL) and viscosity (86 cPs) values comparable to fatty alcohol emollients, with a refractive index (1.457) comparable to fatty alcohol and ester-based emollients and a surface tension (22.53 mN/m ± 0.11 mN/m) similar to the ester-based ones. It proved stable below 308 °C and capable of reducing the loss of internal water from hair strands (−7.5% w/w). Lastly, the toxicity tests proved that DS is safe for topical skincare, haircare, and makeup applications. Full article

Nanoemulsions are significant for cosmetic products intended for skin care and for health products due to the reduced size (range 20 to 500 nm) of the globules, which avoids processes of instability. They present transparency, fluidity, wettability, and spreadability; increase skin penetration; and have good sensation. The main instability mechanism of nanoemulsions is called Ostwald ripening, responsible for increasing the average diameter of emulsion globules. Sesame Seed Oil (SO) and Raspberry Seed Oil (RO) are indicated as moisturizing agents recently used in the cosmetic industry and for reducing transepidermal water loss, preventing damage to the skin barrier. They contain specific compounds with common properties such as antioxidant, moisturizing, emollient, and photoprotective actions, making them attractive alternative and complementary treatments to soften the process of skin aging. Below, we present the results of this research on the development of nanoemulsions containing Sesame Seed Oil added with Raspberry Seed Oil by the low-energy method. SO nanoemulsions at HLB = 8.0 were obtained with PEG 15 castor oil (A) and PEG 30 castor oil (F.80) and had globule sizes of 50 nm and 200 nm, respectively, along with pH values considered suitable for skin care products and lower viscosity values allowing for the easy application of nanoemulsions to the skin. Nanoemulsions A and F.80 showed antioxidant activities of 68.71% and 67.75%, respectively. SO nanoemulsions with PEG 15 and PEG 30 castor oil were obtained at 85 °C and 75 °C, respectively, and have the lowest Ostwald ripening index (1.33 × 10²² m³ s⁻¹). The in vitro evaluation conducted using the HET-CAM method for nanoemulsions and PEG 15 and PEG 30 castor oils showed that they were slightly irritating and could be used in cosmetic products. Full article

Objectives: This study evaluated the potential of sustainably sourced, plant-based homopolymers derived from citronellol as an alternative to the traditional emollients used in pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care products. With increasing emphasis on environmentally friendly ingredients and manufacturing processes, this study assessed the efficacy of these homopolymers in semi-solid and emulsion-based formulations. Methods: The analyses focused on physicochemical, sensory, biophysical, and neurosensory characteristics. Results: The results demonstrated that emulsions containing sustainable homopolymers maintained viscoelastic stability, preserving rheological properties over time under varying conditions. These formulations showed comparable structural and functional stability to those with traditional emollients while offering skin hydration, moisture retention, and elasticity, with reduced transepidermal water loss. Sensory evaluations highlighted positive user acceptance, with participants favoring the skin feel and in-use qualities of these emulsions over synthetic alternatives. Neurosensory analyses confirmed the strong visual appeal of the product packaging, capturing user attention effectively. Conclusions: These findings underline the capability of plant-based homopolymers to replace traditional emollients while providing significant consumer appeal and sustainability benefits. This study establishes their potential as viable components in the development of more eco-friendly topical formulations for the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries. Full article

For thousands of years, Vachellia nilotica has been widely used as an herbal medicine to treat some diseases and symptoms, including respiratory, gastrointestinal and urogenital ailments. The present study was adapted to document and assemble existing information about V. nilotica and its evidence-based ethnopharmacological activities, with brief reviews on the description, geographical distribution, ecology, medical uses and phytochemistry. A literature review and information up to 2024 was performed in various scientific databases, including PubMed, Science Direct and Google Scholar. The keywords were “Acacia nilotica”, “Botany”, “ecology”, “Traditional uses”, “Phytochemistry”, “Polyphenols”, “Molecular docking”, “Ethnopharmacological activities” and “toxicity”, among others. V. nilotica has a wide range of uses, with low toxicity, reported in different countries. It can be infused into oils or tea or incorporated into paste, poultice and biscuits, used as an emollient, antidiarrheal, astringent and as an antidote for bite poisons. Glucose and lipid-lowering, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antipyretic, antioxidant, antihypertensive, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral and anthelmintic activities are the most prominent. Over 150 chemical components have been identified from V. nilotica that could be associated with its potential actions. Quercetin, rutin, kaempferol, naringenin, catechin, epicatechin, gallic acid, ellagic acid, lupeol and niloticane are its main active constituents. From the research data, and despite the fact that human clinical trials and detailed methodological studies are scarce, V. nilotica has shown wide-ranging activities, though the most robust evidence is related to the treatment of microbial infections, diarrhea, wound and ulcer healing and for topical application. More pharmacological and toxicological studies are required to further elucidate the mechanisms of action, potential side effects, and optimal dosages for these treatments. Additionally, more clinical trials are needed to validate these traditional uses in human populations and to ensure the safety and efficacy of V. nilotica for these applications. This article offers an overview of therapeutic applications by utilizing traditional uses and recent findings on phytochemical studies, and clinical and pharmacological research. Full article

This study aims to explore the impact of aging on skin elasticity, a key biomechanical property that diminishes over time, using the Cutometer to assess viscoelastic parameters. Methods: Researchers analyzed 22 viscoelastic parameters from the facial skin of 60 women aged 18 to 70. Key Results: The findings indicate that relaxation phase parameters, particularly biological elasticity (R7), exhibited the strongest negative correlation with age (r = −0.62), signifying a notable decline in biological elasticity as women age. In contrast, maximum deformation during the first cycle (R0) and the total area under the upper curve after 10 cycles of deformation (F4) also showed significant negative correlations with age (r = −0.47, r = −0.48), suggesting that younger skin typically presents higher values. These correlations raise questions regarding practical applications, as the presence of moisturizers and emollients may alter the stratum corneum’s properties, thus impacting these measurements. Additionally, the ratio of delayed deformation to instantaneous deformation (R6) demonstrated a positive correlation with age (r = 0.49), indicating its potential as a marker for skin aging. Conclusions: This study highlights the critical role of relaxation phase parameters in accurately reflecting skin elasticity changes associated with aging. The results offer valuable insights for evaluating cosmetic efficacy, reinforcing the need for a nuanced understanding of how various parameters interact. These findings contribute to the ongoing development of more effective anti-aging treatments and products. Full article

Centella asiatica L. extract is a promising natural agent for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. It significantly reduces inflammation due to its immunomodulatory properties, mainly attributed to the presence of pentacyclic triterpenes, namely madecassoside and asiaticoside. Their incorporation into sustainable cold-processed topical formulations, such as emollient-rich emulsions and cosmetic gel containing natural hydrophilic polymers, should inhibit inflammation in atopic skin. Therefore, the objective of this study is to investigate the controlled release of madecassoside and asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica L., loaded into topical formulations, namely emollient-rich O/W and W/O emulsions and cosmetic gel, which could support the treatment of atopic dermatitis. The carriers of active substances have been prepared with sustainable emulsifiers, active substances, and emollients obtained by green technologies from food industry wastes. Low-energy methods during the carrier emulsification process were applied to reduce carbon footprints and preserve the valuable properties of the raw materials used. The influence of the Centella asiatica L. extract on the physicochemical properties of the formulations was studied, showing a satisfactory degree of stability of the formulations obtained. Moreover, factors that may influence the mechanism and kinetics of the release of madecassoside and asiaticoside, such as the concentration of the active substance, the pH of the dissolution medium, and the type of the carrier, have been tested and widely discussed. Full article

The sustainable utilization of co-products derived from the salmon processing industry is crucial for enhancing the viability and decreasing the environmental footprint of both capture and aquaculture operations. Salmon (Salmo salar) is one of the most consumed fish worldwide and a major species produced in aquaculture. As such, significant quantities of salmon co-products are produced in pre-commercialization processing/steaking procedures. The present study characterized a specific co-product derived from the processing of salmon: minced salmon heads. More specifically, this work aimed to reveal the nutritional profile of this co-product, with a special focus on its lipid content, including thoroughly profiling fatty acids and fully appraising the composition in complex lipids (polar lipids and triglycerides) for the first time. The antioxidant potential of lipid extracts from this salmon co-product was also studied in order to bioprospect lipid functional properties and possibly unveil new pathways for added-value applications. Our analysis indicated that these minced salmon heads are exceptionally rich in lipids. Oleic acid is the most prevalent fatty acid in this co-product, followed by palmitic acid, stearic acid, and linoleic acid. Moreover, relevant lipid indexes inferred from the fatty acid composition of this co-product revealed good nutritional traits. Lipidome analysis revealed that triglycerides were clearly the predominant lipid class present in this co-product while phospholipids, as well as ceramides, were also present, although in minimal quantities. The bioprospecting of antioxidant activity in the lipid extracts of the minced salmon heads revealed limited results. Given the high concentration of triglycerides, minced salmon heads can constitute a valuable resource for industrial applications from the production of fish oil to biodiesel (as triglycerides can be easily converted into fatty acid methyl esters), as well as possible ingredients for cosmetics, capitalizing on their alluring emollient properties. Overall, the valorization of minced salmon heads, major co-products derived from the processing of one of the most intensively farmed fish in the world, not only offers economic benefits but also contributes to the sustainability of the salmon processing industry by reducing waste and promoting a more efficient use of marine bioresources. Full article

This review discusses the development and applications of bioconjugates derived from natural hydroxycinnamic acids (HCA), such as coumaric, sinapic, ferulic, and caffeic acids, combined with various biomaterials. These bioconjugates offer a range of benefits including antioxidant properties, UV protection, customized hydrophilic–lipophilic balance, improved safety, solubility, emolliency, biocompatibility, biodegradability, and targeted delivery for biomedical, cosmetic, and food applications. The increasing demand for natural products in the biomedical, cosmetic, and food industries has led to the exploration of these hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives. We discuss the synthesis and modification of hydroxycinnamic acids with biomaterials such as ω-hydroxy fatty acids, castor and lesquerella oils, glycerol, isosorbides, and synthetic polyethylene glycol to form functional phenolipids for biomedical, sunscreen, and skincare applications. Encapsulation techniques with β-cyclodextrins and modification of polymeric supports like polysaccharides and starch are discussed for enhancing bioavailability and solubility and targeted delivery. The fine-tuned development of bioconjugates from hydroxycinnamic acids using glycerol to modify the hydrophilic–lipophilic balance, substitution by water-soluble carboxylic acid groups, vegetable oil-based phenolipids, polysaccharides, and PEGylation provide enhanced dual functionalities and offer a promising avenue for creating effective products across various applications. Full article