Search Results (1,457)

The global necessity for sustainable development has prompted a significant re-evaluation of practices across diverse industries, notably influencing the cosmetic sector’s approach to ingredient management. To address this imperative, the L’Oréal Group launched its “Green Sciences” initiative, aiming to support the transition toward more sustainable cosmetic ingredients. This article introduces the Green Sciences Index (GSI), an assessment tool designed for a structured and standardized evaluation of cosmetic ingredient sustainability to assist innovators in selecting ingredients during the early stages of development. Adopting a life-cycle perspective, the proposed framework assesses feedstock origin, ingredient manufacturing processes, and the environmental impact of an ingredient’s end-of-life. The GSI was specifically designed with a focus on the global manufacturing pathway, from primary feedstocks to the final ingredients. It integrates an assessment framework inspired by the Principles of Green Chemistry for cosmetic ingredients, encouraging specific sustainable manufacturing practices, structured around “Biotechnology and Fermentation”, “Eco-extraction and Physical Processes”, and synthesis by “Green Chemistry”. The practical application of the GSI is demonstrated through a series of concrete case studies featuring diverse ingredients. The GSI is an eco-design lever serving as a pre-screening orientation tool at the ingredient level, complementing comprehensive Life Cycle Assessments to guide development and innovation toward more sustainable cosmetic products. Full article

Camellia japonica L., an East Asian species with extensive ethnobotanical use, is a rich source of bioactive metabolites including polyphenols, saponins, terpenoids, sterols, and fatty acids. These compounds have attracted significant attention in cosmetic research due to increasing demand for natural, multifunctional ingredients with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, moisturizing, and skin-brightening properties. This review summarizes the major classes of Camellia metabolites, their chemical characteristics, and mechanisms of action. Terpenoids and polyphenols, including phenolic acids, flavonoids, and tannins, exhibit potent antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Camellia saponins serve as mild natural surfactants for gentle skin cleansing, while phytosterols, amino acids, proteins, and seed fatty acids synergistically reconstruct the epidermal barrier and maintain cutaneous hydration. This review further addresses the current applications of these Camellia-derived bioactives in ameliorating photo-aging, hyperpigmentation, skin inflammation, and barrier dysfunction. Despite significant progress, key challenges persist, including incomplete understanding of biosynthetic regulation, suboptimal extraction methods, limited study of synergistic effects, and insufficient human safety data. Future studies should employ omics technologies and green extraction approaches to elucidate biosynthetic pathways, validate efficacy, and promote sustainable utilization of Camellia resources in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and related industries. Full article

The increasing prohibition of animal testing for cosmetic products has driven the development of alternative approaches to ensure consumer safety. Skin sensitization is one of the most critical toxicological endpoints to evaluate, requiring rigorous assessment to ensure the safety of cosmetic ingredients. This study proposes an Integrated Testing Strategy (ITS) that combines in chemico (Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay—DPRA) and in silico approaches (a six-platform computational panel) to evaluate the sensitization potential of substances. Initially, the in chemico methodology was validated through a partial proficiency demonstration to ensure experimental reliability. Subsequently, this ITS was applied to the Baccharis trimera extract and its major marker, 3-Caffeoylquinic acid (chlorogenic acid/3-CQA). Our results demonstrate that the DPRA alone is insufficient to classify the sensitization potential of complex mixtures, as recommended by OECD guidelines. The integration of in silico data proved essential to interpret the reactivity of the botanical matrix, revealing that the sensitization potential observed in the extract does not stem solely from 3-CQA, but likely results from the synergistic contribution of more lipophilic caffeoylquinic acid isomers. This approach demonstrates that integrating experimental and computational methods is fundamental for a robust safety assessment, offering an efficient, animal-free strategy for the early screening of cosmetic ingredients and for refining the interpretation of toxicological data in complex chemical environments. Full article

Amino acid-based surfactants are promising ingredients for cosmetic formulations, combining mildness with intrinsic self-assembly properties. A recent challenge in the cosmetic field is the replacement of synthetic polymers, used as rheological modifiers, with sustainable and biodegradable alternatives. In this work, sodium cocoyl glycinate (SCG) and sodium cocoyl alaninate (SCA) were investigated as both surfactants and supramolecular gelators for the development of a “supramolecular shampoo”. pK_a analysis and rheological studies revealed that SCG forms robust gel networks at pH 5, whereas SCA shows limited stability. The progressive incorporation of typical cosmetic ingredients, including cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), preservatives, conditioning agents, and fragrance, led to a controlled decrease in mechanical strength while preserving pseudoplastic behavior. The final formulation remained stable under accelerated aging and freeze–thaw conditions for months. These results demonstrate that supramolecular structuring offers a viable and sustainable alternative to conventional polymer-based systems in shampoo formulations. Full article

Natural materials derived from plants have attracted considerable attention as sustainable ingredients for skin-related applications. In this study, we evaluated the antioxidant and skin-related biological activities of a plant-derived peptide preparation obtained from Sesamum indicum L. by enzymatic hydrolysis (Vegan Sesamcoll, SCP). The antioxidant activity of SCP was assessed using ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging assays. SCP inhibited collagenase activity and increased type I collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. In addition, SCP increased hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (HAS3) protein production in human epidermal keratinocytes. These findings indicate that SCP exhibited concentration dependent radical scavenging activity, collagenase inhibitory activity, increased type I collagen production, and enhanced HAS2/HAS3 protein production in vitro in human skin cells. The results suggest that SCP may have potential as a plant-derived cosmetic ingredient for skin-related applications. However, additional studies, including further characterization of the peptide preparation, mechanistic investigations, bioavailability evaluation, and human clinical studies, are required to further validate its biological activities and potential cosmetic applications. Full article

The growing concern over antimicrobial resistance and the increasing demand for safer and more sustainable antimicrobial strategies have driven extensive research into peptide-based natural antimicrobials. This review focuses specifically on antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), bacteriocins and mycocins as peptide- or proteinaceous antimicrobial compounds with potential applications as active ingredients, biopreservatives and antimicrobial tools. These compounds exhibit activity against spoilage and pathogenic microorganisms and are increasingly being explored in food safety, agriculture, cosmetics, animal health and human healthcare. AMPs, bacteriocins and mycocins act through diverse and sometimes overlapping mechanisms, including membrane disruption, pore formation, inhibition of cell wall biosynthesis, interference with intracellular targets, induction of oxidative stress and modulation of host or microbial responses. These mechanisms support their potential use in food biopreservation, crop protection, biofungicide and biopesticide development, topical antimicrobial formulations, cosmetic preservation, antibiofilm strategies and adjunctive therapeutic approaches. Recent advances in encapsulation, peptide engineering, recombinant production, nanodelivery and combination strategies with conventional antibiotics, hurdle technologies or other natural antimicrobials have improved the stability, bioavailability and antimicrobial efficacy of these compounds in experimental systems. However, broader translation remains limited by several major challenges. These include proteolytic degradation, reduced stability in complex matrices, context-dependent antimicrobial activity, possible toxicity, resistance development, high production and purification costs, formulation difficulties, scale-up limitations and regulatory constraints. Further validation is also needed regarding safety, microbiome impact, environmental fate and performance under realistic food-preservation, agricultural, cosmetic and clinical conditions. This review summarises and compares the diversity, mechanisms, applications and translational challenges of AMPs, bacteriocins and mycocins across food safety, sustainable agriculture, cosmetics, animal health and healthcare. It also discusses the main challenges that must be addressed before broader translation, including resistance risk, stability, formulation, scale-up, safety assessment and regulatory approval. Full article

Brown algae are important primary producers in coastal ecosystems, where they provide habitat and food for numerous marine species. For humans, they provide raw materials (food, animal feed, and ingredients for pharmaceuticals and cosmetics) as well as ecosystem services such as coastal protection and carbon sequestration. The molecular characterization of brown algae is necessary to understand their role in ecosystems, their biochemical resources, and responses to environmental stresses—knowledge that is crucial for the sustainable use and biotechnological applications of seaweed. Within this context, we analyzed more than 300 primary and secondary metabolites by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry to elucidate the metabolic profiles of seven habitat-forming species of brown algae in the arctic and temperate seas. Metabolite profiles were discussed considering physiological and ecological characteristics of the different algae, thus revealing the taxon-specific biochemical signatures and metabolite patterns contributing to seaweed adaptation to their typical habitats. Three important groups of metabolites representing polyols, phenolic compounds, and organic acids, were analyzed and discussed in more detail. Our study revealed metabolic diversity of species from the same order and genus, thereby indicating a very distinct regulation at the molecular level to meet metabolic needs of the habitat. The knowledge of different compositions of algal extracts can be used to develop specialized applications for humans in cosmetic, medical, or nutritional sectors. Full article

The introduction of regulations restricting the use of microplastics in cosmetics, combined with the growing demand for sustainable cosmetic formulations and the continuing consumer interest in naturally derived ingredients, increases the need to develop alternative functional materials. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of plant-derived microparticles obtained from agro-industrial fruit by-products (orange peel) on the properties of cosmetic emulsions as a function of their concentration. Model emulsions containing 0–5% orange peel microparticles were prepared and analyzed in terms of physicochemical properties (viscosity, pH, color, stability), sensory characteristics, antioxidant activity (DPPH), and their impact on skin biophysical and optical parameters. Results showed that increasing microparticle concentration significantly enhanced emulsion viscosity (from 17,000 to 36,000 mPa·s) and antioxidant activity (from 13% to 77% DPPH inhibition). Application studies revealed a 54% increase in skin hydration and a fourfold reduction in transepidermal water loss (from 24 to 6 g/m²/h) for formulations with the highest concentration. However, concentrations containing 3-5% led to reduced emulsion stability. Although higher concentrations (4–5%) provided stronger antioxidant and skin-related effects, the 2% formulation provided the most favorable balance between physical stability, functional performance, sensory acceptance, and formulation appearance. These findings indicate that natural microparticles derived from orange peel can serve as multifunctional, sustainable ingredients in cosmetic emulsions, providing structuring, antioxidant, and skin-barrier-supporting effects. Full article

The utilisation of cosmetic plant waxes as sustainable functional ingredients in personal care formulations is on the rise. This is due to their emollient, structuring and film-forming properties. Nevertheless, the intricate lipid composition of these substances engenders considerable analytical difficulties, impeding the reliable characterisation and quality assessment thereof. In this study, an optimised gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) workflow was developed and evaluated for the compositional profiling of waxes derived from R. succedanea and R. verniciflua, two East Asian botanical species that have historically been utilised in cosmetic and lacquer-related applications. Wax samples originating from China, Vietnam, Korea, and Japan were extracted using solvents of different polarity, including petroleum ether, dichloromethane (DCM), ethyl acetate, and acetone. Following the process of BSTFA derivatisation, the extracts were subjected to analysis by GC–MS to evaluate the efficiency of the extraction process and the chemical composition of the extracts. DCM was found to provide the highest extraction yields and the most representative compositional profiles. Across all samples, palmitic acid was identified as the predominant constituent (80–90%), followed by lower amounts of oleic acid, stearic acid, and minor monoacylglycerols. The proposed analytical workflow exhibited satisfactory reproducibility and effective discrimination of lipid constituents, thereby substantiating its application in comparative compositional evaluation, potential support for future quality assessment studies, and formulation development of cosmetic plant waxes. Full article

The growing demand for effective delivery of active ingredients in cosmetic formulations has stimulated the development of advanced carrier systems. This study evaluates the potential of the dicephalic di-N-oxide surfactant N,N-bis [3,3-(dimethylamino)-propyl]dodecylamide (C₁₂-(DAPANO)₂) as a stabilizer for aqueous dispersions of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs). Lipid nanoparticles were prepared using three classes of solid lipids—cetyl palmitate, glyceryl behenate, and stearic acid—through high-speed homogenization followed by ultrasonication. Their physicochemical properties were characterized using DLS, TEM, AFM, DSC, and TGA. All formulations exhibited particle sizes below 300 nm and a low polydispersity index (<0.30), indicating good uniformity. High absolute zeta potential values and stability studies confirmed excellent physical stability, with all dispersions remaining stable for at least 90 days at room temperature. Compared with bulk lipids, nanoparticles showed lower melting temperatures and reduced crystallinity. NLCs exhibited lower crystallization and melting temperatures than SLNs and displayed a more spherical morphology. Cytotoxicity assessment using J774.E macrophages revealed no adverse effects. These findings highlight the surfactant’s potential as a stabilizing agent for lipid-based cosmetic nanocarriers, supporting the development of stable systems with improved active ingredient loading and controlled release properties. Full article

Pantothenic acid (PA; vitamin B5) is an essential component of many key metabolic processes. Vitamin B5 deficiency causes dysfunction in various systems and organs. Humans do not produce vitamin B5, so it must be constantly replenished through diet or supplementation. Pantothenic acid is synthesized by plants, fungi, and bacteria, so a well-balanced diet is a good source of pantothenic acid. Pantothenates have beneficial effects on the skin (regenerative, healing, and anti-inflammatory effects). They are readily absorbed through the skin, making them a common active ingredient in cosmetics and medications with soothing, healing, regenerative, moisturizing, and protective properties for damaged, sensitive, or atopic skin, including topical products labeled hypoallergenic or specifically intended for people with sensitive skin. Although PA is considered non-allergenic and safe, paradoxically, frequent exposure, especially to damaged skin, appears to lead to hypersensitivity to this substance. The pathogenetic mechanisms of pantothenate hypersensitivity have not been clearly defined. The main sensitization pathway is likely a delayed cellular mechanism (type IV, contact). However, other types of hypersensitivity, including immediate (type I) and mixed mechanisms, cannot be ruled out. PA allergy is considered rare and therefore difficult to diagnose. This is due to the unexpected sensitizing factor and the lack of standard diagnostic tests. Due to the likely contact nature of the allergy, patch testing (PT) with a cosmetic (drug) provided by the patient (“as is”) and PA (5% in petrolatum; 5% PET) appears to be the best approach. It is also suggested that PA (5% PET>) be included in the standard series of allergens (haptens) used in routine PT diagnostics. It appears that PA allergy is more common than currently believed, particularly in people with atopic skin and polysensitized individuals, who are the primary users of products containing pantothenate. It is possible that in these individuals, pantothenic acid may be more harmful than beneficial. Full article

Prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.) generates substantial agro-industrial by-products, such as press cake, seed, and oil, that remain underexploited despite their recognized phytochemical richness. This study reports the systematic optimization, characterization, and bioactivity profiling of flavonoid-rich extracts recovered from these three matrices. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) coupled with response surface methodology (RSM) was applied to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) of total flavonoid content (TFC) from press cake using a natural deep eutectic solvent (NADES: fructose–glycerol–sorbitol–water and FGSH), selected through an initial screening of fifteen solvent systems. The quadratic polynomial model showed excellent fit (R² = 0.9852; R²adj = 0.9687; MAPE = 1.31%; Durbin–Watson = 1.857), and optimal extraction conditions were established at 37.6 min extraction time, 35.6% ultrasonic power, and 29.4 °C, yielding a maximum predicted TFC of 54.78 ± 0.49 mg quercetin equivalents (QE)/mL. HPLC-DAD analysis of the press cake extract revealed five isorhamnetin derivatives as the dominant flavonoids, with isorhamnetin-3-O-glucoside (23.18 ± 0.12 mg/g DW) and isorhamnetin-3-O-rutinoside (13.80 ± 0.28 mg/g DW) as the most abundant. Comprehensive bioactivity assessment demonstrated significant antioxidant capacities (CUPRAC: 191.35 ± 3.22 µM AAE; ORAC: 184.44 ± 3.44 µM TE; DPPH: 103.47 ± 9.98 µM TE for press cake extract), potent in cellulo ROS/RNS suppression in a yeast UV-stress model (85.9 ± 1.0% inhibition for press cake), and differential tyrosinase inhibition across fractions (press cake: 32.8%; seed: 57.5%; oil: 83.8%), highlighting the oil as a potent anti-melanogenic ingredient. In silico safety prediction (ProTox-II/pkCSM) confirmed the favorable toxicity profiles of all identified isorhamnetin derivatives (LD₅₀ > 5000 mg/kg; Toxicity Class V). These results collectively position Opuntia ficus-indica by-products as high-value natural sources of bioactive flavonoids with applications in cosmetic, nutraceutical, and dermatological formulations. Full article

Skin aging is associated with oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation, and dysregulation of melanogenesis, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and hyperpigmentation. Natural plant-derived compounds have attracted increasing interest as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Mai-Kae-Den-Klong (MKDK), a traditional Thai longevity herbal formula composed of Albizia procera (Roxb.) Benth., Cyperus rotundus L., Diospyros rhodocalyx Kurz, Piper nigrum L., Streblus asper Lour., and Tinospora crispa (L.) Hook.f. & Thomson, has historically been used to promote vitality and healthy aging; however, its potential application as a cosmetic anti-aging ingredient remains scientifically unexplored. Therefore, this study investigated the anti-aging potential of MKDK extract using integrated enzyme-based bioassays and in silico approaches. Phytochemical profiling of the ethanolic extract was performed using LC-MS analysis, revealing diverse bioactive constituents, including flavonoids, phenolic glycosides, alkaloids, and terpenoids, with (−)-epicatechin, procyanidin B1, and piperine identified as major metabolites. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays, while inhibitory activities against tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase were assessed to determine skin anti-aging potential. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with IC₅₀ values of 17.23 ± 2.11 µg/mL for DPPH and 11.87 ± 1.77 µg/mL for ABTS assays. In addition, the extract demonstrated inhibitory effects against tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 41.25 ± 1.56 µg/mL), elastase (IC₅₀ = 49.51 ± 3.69 µg/mL), collagenase (IC₅₀ = 61.54 ± 2.88 µg/mL), and hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ = 63.74 ± 6.32 µg/mL), suggesting multifunctional anti-aging properties associated with skin brightening and extracellular matrix preservation. Network pharmacology analysis predicted multiple aging-related signaling pathways, particularly the FoxO signaling pathway, which is associated with oxidative stress regulation and longevity. Molecular docking analysis further demonstrated favorable binding affinities of procyanidin B1, epicatechin, and piperine toward skin-aging-related enzymes, supporting their potential contribution to the observed bioactivities. Overall, these findings suggest that MKDK possesses promising cosmeceutical potential as a natural multifunctional anti-aging ingredient and provides scientific support for the application of traditional Thai herbal formulations in cosmetic and skin health products. Full article

Phycocyanin, a phycobiliprotein derived from the cyanobacterium Limnospira (Arthrospira) platensis (commonly known as Spirulina), is recognized for its antioxidant, immunomodulatory, and bioactive properties. This research aims to develop a new cosmetic ingredient based on phycocyanin incorporated into a high-lipid matrix, such as shea butter. A comprehensive characterization of the cytotoxicity and anti-inflammatory activity of this new bioactive phycocyanin–protein complex in human THP-1 monocytic cells was performed. For this purpose, cytocompatibility was evaluated using MTT assays at concentrations ranging from 10 to 0.0006% v/v. Anti-inflammatory activity was measured under LPS-induced inflammatory stress by measuring IL-6 and IL-8 secretion using ELISA in PMA-differentiated THP-1 cells treated with non-cytotoxic concentrations (0.04, 0.02, and 0.01% v/v). A crucial finding was the absence of anti-inflammatory activity at 0.01% v/v, indicating a minimum effective concentration threshold and, consequently, effective doses. The results of this research indicate that the phycocyanin and shea butter ingredients demonstrate strong cytocompatibility at relevant cosmetic doses and significant anti-inflammatory activity, supporting their suitability for formulations targeting skin sensitivity, erythema reduction, and post-inflammatory recovery. Full article

This study assessed the potential of Oleaster leaves as a valuable cosmetic ingredient by comparing aqueous and hydroalcoholic ultrasound-assisted extracts of Oleaster leaves to those of the Olive tree. The hydroalcoholic Oleaster leaf extract showed a higher content in phenolic and flavonoid compounds, with an oleuropein and verbascoside content of 58 mg/g of dry leaves and 3.2 mg/g of dry leaves, respectively. To refine the comparison of their molecular composition, the extracts were analyzed using UHPLC-HRMS/MS. About twenty compounds, including secoiridoids, flavonoids and triterpenic acid derivatives, were annotated in both extracts, demonstrating their similarity. DPPH, CUPRAC and enzymatic SOD assays showed a good antioxidant activity with high inhibition (60–90%) for both Oleaster and Olive tree leaf extracts. The hydroalcoholic extracts at 62.5 µg/mL also exhibited 60–80% of protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in H₂O₂-stressed HaCaT cells, confirming this antioxidant capacity without demonstrating a severe cytotoxicity, which remained below 40%. The anti-inflammatory potential of the extracts was also demonstrated using COX-2 inhibition, which was around 70%, and by measuring the concentration of IL-8 in HaCaT cells under pro-inflammatory conditions, which decreased in the presence of extracts at a concentration of 50 pg/mL, similar to that observed for the positive control. Thus, the hydroalcoholic ultrasound extract of Oleaster leaves demonstrated its high potential to develop sustainable and active cosmetic ingredients. Full article