Search Results (1,208)

Seeds of Cucurbitaceae crops represent a promising yet underexplored source of bioactive compounds with potential applications beyond nutrition, particularly in the cosmetics industry. This review examines the seeds of Citrullus lanatus (watermelon), Cucumis melo (melon), and Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin), focusing on their biochemical composition and evaluating their functional value in natural cosmetic development. Although these fruits are widely consumed, industrial processing generates substantial seed by-products that are often discarded. These seeds are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, proteins, carbohydrates, and phytochemicals, positioning them as sustainable raw materials for value-added applications. The incorporation of seed-derived extracts into cosmetic formulations offers multiple skin and hair benefits, including antioxidant activity, hydration, and support in managing conditions such as hyperpigmentation, acne, and psoriasis. They also contribute to hair care by improving oil balance, reducing frizz, and enhancing strand nourishment. However, challenges such as environmental instability and low dermal permeability of seed oils have prompted interest in nanoencapsulation technologies to improve delivery, stability, and efficacy. This review summarizes current scientific findings and highlights the potential of Cucurbitaceae seeds as innovative and sustainable ingredients for cosmetic and personal care applications. Full article

Avocado (Persea americana), originally from Mesoamerica, has emerged as a focus of intense scientific and industrial interest due to its unique combination of nutritional richness, bioactive potential, and technological versatility. Its pulp, widely consumed across the globe, is notably abundant in monounsaturated fatty acids, especially oleic acid, which can comprise over two-thirds of its lipid content. In addition, it provides significant levels of dietary fiber, fat-soluble vitamins such as A, D, E and K, carotenoids, tocopherols, and phytosterols like β-sitosterol. These constituents are consistently associated with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, glycemic regulatory, and cardioprotective effects, supported by a growing body of experimental and clinical evidence. This review offers a comprehensive and critical synthesis of the chemical composition and functional properties of avocado, with particular emphasis on its lipid profile, phenolic compounds, and phytosterols. It also explores recent advances in environmentally sustainable extraction techniques, including ultrasound-assisted and microwave-assisted processes, as well as the application of natural deep eutectic solvents. These technologies have demonstrated improved efficiency in recovering bioactives while aligning with the principles of green chemistry. The use of avocado-derived ingredients in nanostructured delivery systems and their incorporation into functional foods, cosmetics, and health-promoting formulations is discussed in detail. Additionally, the potential of native cultivars and the application of precision nutrition strategies are identified as promising avenues for future innovation. Taken together, the findings underscore the avocado’s relevance as a high-value matrix for sustainable development. Future research should focus on optimizing extraction protocols, clarifying pharmacokinetic behavior, and ensuring long-term safety in diverse applications. Full article

The cosmetic industry is growing at an impressive rate worldwide. In the cosmetic field, natural-origin ingredients represent the new frontier in this industry. Among the main components of cosmetics, lipids, emulsifiers, rheological modifiers, preservatives, colorants, and antioxidants can be found. These compounds form emulsions, which are among the main cosmetic formulations. An important aspect in this regard is the evaluation of emulsions’ stability over time and emulsions’ production methodology. In this paper, a comparison is made between two emulsion production technologies, the Standard and the “One-Pot” methods, through the characterization of the raw material ABWAX^® Revomul, a multifunctional wax for cosmetic use which consists of a low-melting structuring wax of vegetal origin (Rhus wax) and a natural emulsifier (Polyglyceril-3 Stearate). First, we evaluated the affinity between the wax raw materials and emollients of different chemical nature; then, we analyzed the impact of the production method on the emulsions to identify similarities and differences. ABWAX^® Revomul demonstrated a high level of effectiveness in regard to stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions. This study suggests that from an industrial point of view, the application of the two procedures allows products with different characteristics to be obtained, consequently allowing a specific method to be chosen to obtain the desired product. Full article

Skin dullness contributes to a fatigued and aged appearance, often exceeding one’s biological age. It is a common dermatological concern influenced by aging and poor lifestyle habits, regardless of ethnicity or age. This study aimed to examine advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and their receptor (receptor for AGEs [RAGE]) as contributing factors to skin dullness. AGEs themselves have a yellowish hue, contributing to “yellow dullness.” Additionally, AGE–RAGE signaling promotes melanin production in melanocytes and impairs keratinocyte differentiation as a result of inflammation. Therefore, regulating the AGE–RAGE interaction may help reduce skin dullness. Through screening various natural ingredients, we found that peony root extract (PRE) inhibits AGE formation and blocks AGE–RAGE binding. Furthermore, the presence of PRE leads to the suppression of AGE-induced melanin production in melanocytes and the restoration of impaired keratinocyte differentiation in glycated basement membrane components. In a human clinical study, topical application of a 1% PRE-containing lotion for 2 weeks significantly reduced melanin content, with a trend toward decreased AGE accumulation and visible spots on the cheeks. These findings support the potential of PRE as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient that comprehensively addresses skin dullness by modulating the AGE–RAGE interaction. Full article

The cosmetics industry has been seeking to develop products with renewable natural ingredients to reduce the use of or even replace synthetic substances. Biosurfactants can help meet this demand. These natural compounds are renewable, biodegradable, and non-toxic or have low toxicity, offering minimal risk to humans and the environment, which has attracted the interest of an emerging consumer market and, consequently, the cosmetics industry. The aim of the present study was to produce a biosurfactant from the yeast Starmerella bombicola ATCC 22214 cultivated in a mineral medium containing 10% soybean oil and 5% glucose. The biosurfactant reduced the surface tension of water from 72.0 ± 0.1 mN/m to 33.0 ± 0.3 mN/m after eight days of fermentation. The yield was 53.35 ± 0.39 g/L and the critical micelle concentration was 1000 mg/L. The biosurfactant proved to be a good emulsifier of oils used in cosmetic formulations, with emulsification indices ranging from 45.90 ± 1.69% to 68.50 ± 1.10%. The hydrophilic–lipophilic balance index demonstrated the wetting capacity of the biosurfactant and its tendency to form oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, with 50.0 ± 0.20% foaming capacity. The biosurfactant did not exhibit cytotoxicity in the MTT assay or irritant potential. Additionally, an antioxidant activity of 58.25 ± 0.32% was observed at a concentration of 40 mg/mL. The compound also exhibited antimicrobial activity against various pathogenic microorganisms. The characterisation of the biosurfactant using magnetic nuclear resonance and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy revealed that the biomolecule is a glycolipid with an anionic nature. The results demonstrate that biosurfactant produced in this work has potential as an active biotechnological ingredient for innovative, eco-friendly cosmetic formulations. Full article

The increasing demand for sustainable and safer alternatives in the cosmetic industry has driven the search for multifunctional natural ingredients. Essential oils (EOs), known for their antimicrobial and antioxidant activities, are promising candidates with which to replace synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This study aimed to evaluate the preservative and antioxidant potential of Lippia origanoides Kunth essential oil, in pure and encapsulated in β-cyclodextrin form, for cosmetic applications. The EO exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with low IC₅₀ values in DPPH and ABTS assays, and demonstrated antimicrobial efficacy, particularly against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. Six cosmetic cream formulations were developed and tested for physicochemical and microbiological stability. Formulations with pure EO maintained high antioxidant performance and remained free of bacterial and fungal contamination over time, outperforming the commercial preservatives. In contrast, formulations with encapsulated EO exhibited delayed antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, indicating gradual release. Overall, Lippia origanoides EO proved to be an effective natural alternative to synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This approach aligns with the current trend of eco-friendly formulations, offering a sustainable solution by incorporating plant-derived bioactives into cosmetic products. Full article

In recent decades, there has been a marked surge in the development of marine-by-product-derived ingredients for cosmetic applications, driven by the increasing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. Marine animal by-products, particularly those from fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, represent an abundant yet underutilized source of bioactive compounds with notable potential in cosmeceutical innovation. Generated as waste from the fishery and seafood-processing industries, these materials are rich in valuable bioactives, such as chitosan, collagen, peptides, amino acids, fatty acids, polar lipids, lipid-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, pigments, phenolics, and mineral-based substrates like hydroxyapatite. Marine by-product bioactives can be isolated via several extraction methods, and most importantly, green ones. These compounds exhibit a broad spectrum of skin-health-promoting effects, including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, anti-wrinkle, anti-hyperpigmentation, and wound-healing properties. Moreover, applications extend beyond skincare to include hair, nail, and oral care. The present review provides a comprehensive analysis of bioactives obtained from marine mollusks, crustaceans, and fish by-products, emphasizing modern extraction technologies with a focus on green and sustainable approaches. It further explores their mechanisms of action and documented efficacy in cosmetic formulations. Finally, the review outlines current limitations and offers future perspectives for the industrial valorization of marine by-products in functional and environmentally-conscious cosmetic development. Full article

Background: Olive pomace, a byproduct of olive oil production, represents approximately 85% of the processed material and poses environmental risks when improperly discarded. Its composition is rich in polyphenols with potential for cosmetic use, especially in skin barrier care. Objective: To develop a natural extract rich in antioxidants from olive pomace using sustainable solvents (water and 1,3-propanediol) for skin barrier support. Methods: The phenolic composition and in vitro biological activities of the extracts were analyzed. Results: The extracts demonstrated a reducing capacity (15 to 33 mg GAE/g) and flavonoid content (4 to 5 mg QE/g). In addition, their antioxidant capacity was proven through the inhibition of the DPPH radical (7% to 91%) and ABTS (7% to 95%) and the reduction in oxidation in the beta-carotene/linoleic acid system (6% to 35%), presenting results superior to those of tocopherol acetate. The hydroxytyrosol and oleuropein compounds, ranging from 28 to 54 and 51 to 85 µg/mL, respectively, were quantified via HPLC. The extract with the highest levels of hydroxytyrosol and oleuropein was analyzed via UHPLC-QqTOF-MS, and 33 compounds were identified. This extract showed antiglycation activity (24% to 40%). The incorporation of this extract into a cosmetic emulsion resulted in sufficient antioxidant capacity to replace tocopherol acetate. Conclusions: The use of effective extraction techniques and nontoxic solvents ensures the sustainability and safety of the extract for application as a natural cosmetic ingredient, aiming to promote the health and integrity of the skin barrier. Full article

Biotin (vitamin B7) is a common, naturally occurring water-soluble vitamin. It belongs to the broad group of B vitamins. It is a common ingredient in dietary supplements, cosmetics, medicines, and parapharmaceutical preparations administered orally or applied topically (to the skin, hair, nails). The problem of the relationship between vitamin B supplementation and sensitivity seems to be multi-threaded. There is little literature data that would confirm that oral vitamin B supplementation or local exposure to biotin is a significant sensitizing factor. Moreover, it seems that allergy to vitamin B7 is very rare. It is possible, however, that the relationship between biotin and hypersensitivity is not limited to its direct action, but results from its essential metabolic function. Vitamin B7, as a cofactor of five carboxylases, affects the main pathways of cellular metabolism. Both deficiency and excess of biotin can result in metabolic disorders, which can have a significant impact on the homeostasis of the entire organism, including the efficient functioning of the immune system. Dysregulation of immune systems leads to its dysfunctional functioning, which can also lead to sensitization to various environmental antigens (allergens). Biotin is also used as an element of some methodological models in immunochemical tests (in vitro diagnostics), including methods used to measure the concentration of immunoglobulin E (IgE), both total (tIgE) and allergen-specific (sIgE). For this reason, vitamin B7 supplementation can be a significant interfering factor in some immunochemical tests, which can lead to false laboratory test results, both false positive and false negative, depending on the test format. This situation can have a direct impact on the quality and effectiveness of diagnostics in various clinical situations, including allergy diagnostics. This review focuses on the role of biotin in allergic reactions, both as a causative factor (allergen/hapten), a factor predisposing to the development of sensitization to various allergens, and an interfering factor in immunochemical methods used in laboratory diagnosis of hypersensitivity reactions and how it can be prevented. Full article

Background: Diabetes and cancer are two of the most life-threatening disorders affecting individuals of all ages worldwide. This study aimed to develop a novel Acrocomia aculeata (bocaiuva) fruit pulp oil-loaded nanoemulsion and evaluate its inhibitory effects on α-glucosidase and pancreatic lipase, as well as its antiglycant activity and cytotoxicity against cancer cells. Additionally, this study assessed the impact of both the oil and the nanoemulsion on blood cells. Methods: The pulp oil was extracted by cold pressing. The oil’s physicochemical properties were determined according to the AOAC and the Brazilian Pharmacopeia. The lipid profile was performed by GC-MS. The nanoemulsion was prepared by the phase inversion method using ultrasonic stirring for particle size reduction and for homogenization. Response Surface Methodology was used for optimizing nanoemulsion preparation. Enzyme inhibition tests were conducted using assay kits. Cytotoxicity in cancer cells was evaluated using the Sulforhodamine B assay. Results: Comprehensive physicochemical and chemical characterization of bocaiuva oil was performed, identifying oleic acid (71.25%) as the main component. The oil contains 23.04% saturated fatty acids, 73.79% monounsaturated acids, and 3.0% polyunsaturated fatty acids. The nanoemulsion (particle size 173.6 nm; zeta potential −14.10 mV) inhibited α-glucosidase (IC₅₀: 43.21 µg/mL) and pancreatic lipase (IC₅₀: 41.99 µg/mL), and revealed a potent antiglycation effect (oxidative IC₅0: 18.36 µg/mL; non-oxidative pathway IC₅₀: 16.33 µg/mL). The nanoemulsion demonstrated good cytotoxicity and selectivity against prostate cancer cells (IC₅₀: 19.13 µg/mL) and breast cancer cells (IC₅₀: 27.22 µg/mL), without inducing hemolysis, platelet aggregation, or anticoagulant effects. Conclusions: In this study, a comprehensive physical and chemical characterization of bocaiuva fruit pulp oil was conducted for the first time as a preliminary step toward its future standardization as an active ingredient in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. The resulting nanoemulsion represents a novel alternative for managing diabetes and cancer. Although the nanoemulsion exhibited lower cytotoxicity compared to doxorubicin, it remains promising due to its composition of essential fatty acids, phenols, and carotenoids, which offer multiple health benefits. Further studies are needed to validate its efficacy and safety in clinical applications. Full article

Calcipotriol, a synthetic vitamin D₃ analogue widely used in psoriasis treatment, requires a detailed stability assessment due to its topical application and potential exposure to UV radiation. As a drug applied directly to the skin, calcipotriol is particularly susceptible to photodegradation, which may affect its therapeutic efficacy and safety profile. The present study focuses on the analysis of calcipotriol photostability. An advanced UHPLC/MS^E method was employed for the precise determination of calcipotriol and its degradation products. Particular attention was given to the effects of commonly used organic UV filters—approved for use in cosmetic products in both Europe and the USA (benzophenone-3, dioxybenzone, meradimate, sulisobenzone, homosalate, and avobenzone)—on the stability of calcipotriol. Unexpected degradation of calcipotriol was observed in the presence of sulisobenzone. Importantly, this effect was consistently detected in methanolic solution and in the pharmaceutical formulation containing calcipotriol and betamethasone, which is particularly significant from a practical perspective. This finding underscores the necessity of evaluating photostability under real-life conditions, as cosmetic ingredients, when co-applied with topical drugs on the skin, may substantially influence the stability profile of the pharmaceutical active ingredient. The research resulted in the first-time characterization of four degradation products of calcipotriol. The degradation process was found to primarily affect the E-4-cyclopropyl-4-hydroxy-1-methylbut-2-en-1-yl moiety, causing its isomerization to the Z isomer and the formation of diastereomers with either the R or S configuration. Computational analyses using the OSIRIS Property Explorer indicated that none of the five degradation products exhibit a toxicity effect, whereas molecular docking studies suggested possible binding of two of the five degradation products of calcipotriol with the VDR. Full article

This study investigated the natural bioactive compounds in Polygonum cuspidatum Sieb. et Zucc. (P. cuspidatum) by fractionating a 70% ethanol extract using n-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, and water. The total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of each fraction were determined, and their antioxidant activities were evaluated using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP assays. Additionally, the anti-diabetic potential was assessed via α-glucosidase inhibitory activity, while anti-obesity activity was evaluated using lipase inhibitory activity. The fractions were also tested for tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities to assess their skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle potential, and their antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa was determined using the agar diffusion method. Finally, bioactive compounds were identified and quantified using HPLC and GC–MSD. The results showed that the ethyl acetate fraction possessed the highest total polyphenol content (0.53 ± 0.01 g GAE/g) and total flavonoid content (0.19 ± 0.02 g QE/g). It also exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with the lowest DPPH radical scavenging IC₅₀ (0.01 ± 0.00 mg/mL), ABTS radical scavenging IC₅₀ (0.06 ± 0.00 mg/mL), and the highest FRAP value (6.02 ± 0.30 mM Fe²⁺/mg). Moreover, it demonstrated potent enzyme inhibitory activities, including tyrosinase inhibitory activity (67.78 ± 2.50%), elastase inhibitory activity (83.84 ± 1.64%), α-glucosidase inhibitory activity (65.14 ± 10.29%), and lipase inhibitory activity (85.79 ± 1.04%). In the antibacterial activity, the ethyl acetate fraction produced a clear inhibitory zone of 19.50 mm against Staphylococcus aureus, indicating notable antibacterial activity. HPLC-PDA and GC–MSD analyses identified tannic acid and emodin as the major bioactive constituents. These findings suggest that the ethyl acetate fraction of P. cuspidatum extract, rich in polyphenol and flavonoid compounds, is a promising natural source of bioactive ingredients for applications in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Further research is needed to explore its mechanisms and therapeutic applications. Full article

The cosmetic industry faces a critical need to balance commercial innovation with scientific validation, especially regarding the safety and efficacy of raw materials. Plant-derived materials (PDMs) offer a promising alternative to animal-derived ingredients in cosmetics, particularly due to their safety and compliance with vegan and ethical standards. Unlike compounds such as polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), which is derived from the testis or seminal fluid of Salmonidae species and raises concerns regarding its origin, sustainability, and consumer acceptability, PDMs provide a cleaner, ethically preferable profile. In this study, we evaluated 50 PDM candidates using in vitro cell viability, wound healing, and immunocytochemistry assays, along with primary skin irritation tests in human participants. None of the samples showed harmful effects. Notably, sample Nos. 38 and 42 demonstrated significant wound-healing capacity and upregulated filaggrin expression without causing notable irritation in clinical testing. These findings support the biological activity and safety of specific PDMs as functional cosmetic ingredients. This study presents scientifically validated evidence for plant-based alternatives to animal-derived materials and offers a new milestone in the shift toward sustainable and ethical cosmetic development. By bridging the gap between consumer demand and scientific rigor, this study provides a robust platform for future innovations in vegan cosmetics. Full article

Laurus nobilis L. is a widely cultivated plant, used for ornamental purposes, as a high-value spice crop, and in the flavor and fragrance industry. In natural medicine, it is well-known for its many beneficial properties (due to a broad spectrum of biologically active compounds) and used for the treatment of different disorders. In this study, natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs), coupled with microwave activation, were studied and applied for a green extraction of L. nobilis leaves. The main objective was to obtain a sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredient (the NaDES-based extract itself), exploiting both the intrinsic cosmetic functionalities of NaDES components and the biological properties of laurel bioactive compounds. The most promising candidate was obtained from a eutectic system containing betaine, glycerol, and lactic acid. The evaluation of this NaDES-based complex reveals a considerable number of phenolic compounds (around 11.57 mg of gallic acid equivalents for a gram of fresh leaves) and a notable antioxidant activity (80.1% with respect to Trolox), with values quite constant over a period of six months. The complex exhibits effective antimicrobial activity against different Gram-positive (S. aureus and S. epidermidis) and Gram-negative (E. coli and P. aeruginosa) bacterial strains, with concentrations ranging from 3.8 to 7.5 mg/mL. Furthermore, the extract presents a pleasant fragrance, attributable to the selective extraction of different volatile aromatic compounds, as confirmed by GC-MS analysis. Full article

This study investigated the potential of high-voltage electrical discharge (HVED), as a green, non-thermal extraction technology, for recovering polyphenols from winter savory (Satureja montana L.). Key process parameters, including frequency (40, 70, 100 Hz) and extraction time (1, 5, 15, 30, 45 min), were optimized, using water as a solvent and maintaining a constant solid-to-liquid ratio of 1:100 g/mL. The extracts were characterized for total polyphenol content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP), while individual phenolics were quantified via HPLC-DAD. Multivariate chemometric analyses, including Pearson correlation, heatmap clustering, and principal component analysis (PCA), were employed to reveal relationships between extraction conditions, polyphenolic profiles, and antioxidant activities. The results showed strong correlations between TPC, TFC, and antioxidant activity, with compounds such as quercetin-3-D-galactoside, procyanidin A2, and rutin identified as key contributors. Among the tested conditions, extraction at 70 Hz for 45 min provided the highest polyphenol yield and bioactivity. The application of HVED demonstrated its potential as an efficient and environmentally friendly technique for obtaining phenolic-rich extracts. In addition, the use of chemometric tools provided useful insights for optimizing extraction conditions and understanding the contributions of specific compounds to bioactivity. These results support future applications in clean-label product development and contribute to broader efforts in sustainable ingredient production for the food, cosmetic, and nutraceutical sectors. Full article