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Bioactive Compounds in Cosmetic Applications

A special issue of Molecules (ISSN 1420-3049). This special issue belongs to the section "Natural Products Chemistry".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 December 2025) | Viewed by 1784

Special Issue Editor


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Guest Editor
Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, Italy
Interests: cosmeceuticals; natural product; skin analysis; transdermal delivery; in vivo/in vitro efficacy tests of cosmetics; analytical chemistry on natural product in cosmetics; nutricosmetics; hair analysis; innovative cosmetic formulation
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Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

In the last few years, new bioactive ingredients have been used in cosmetics for their effect on skin health. The use of natural ingredients is widespread, but, nowadays, peptides, biofermentates and upcycling are also popular and sustainable. It would be very interesting to evaluate the mechanisms of action of these new bioactive compounds using in vitro assays and in vivo efficacy evaluation. Therefore, for this Special Issue, we request studies discussing bioactive compounds such as traditional ingredients, herbal extracts, or other biologically active agents used to maintain skin well-being.

Prof. Dr. Sonia Laneri
Guest Editor

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Keywords

  • bioactive compounds
  • peptides
  • herbal extract
  • biofermentates
  • upcycling
  • skin well-being
  • in vitro tests
  • efficacy testing

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Published Papers (2 papers)

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Research

13 pages, 959 KB  
Article
Potential Cosmetic Applications of Dihydroartemisinin
by Yifan Zhao, Mo Chen, Ying Zheng, Le Zhu, Cui Wu, Yue Ma, Ya Zhao, Dong Zhang, Haidong Jia and Lan Yang
Molecules 2026, 31(2), 228; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules31020228 - 9 Jan 2026
Viewed by 805
Abstract
In recent years, active monomers derived from Chinese herbal medicine and their derivatives have attracted significant attention in the field of skincare product development. Artemisinin and its derivatives, including dihydroartemisinin (DHA), exhibit diverse pharmacological activities such as anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, immunomodulatory, and antitumor effects, [...] Read more.
In recent years, active monomers derived from Chinese herbal medicine and their derivatives have attracted significant attention in the field of skincare product development. Artemisinin and its derivatives, including dihydroartemisinin (DHA), exhibit diverse pharmacological activities such as anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, immunomodulatory, and antitumor effects, showing promising therapeutic potential in skin-related diseases. However, systematic studies on artemisinins in cosmetics are lacking. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic potential of DHA by investigating its anti-aging, anti-hair loss, antibacterial, whitening, and anti-glycation activities. Results showed that DHA exhibits multiple biological activities: DHA exhibits anti-aging activity by promoting collagen I synthesis in HDF cell, exhibits anti-hair loss effect by modulating VEGF and DKK1 expression in DPC cell, exhibits antibacterial activity against Malassezia furfur, exhibits whitening activity by suppressing melanin synthesis, and exhibits anti-glycation activity by suppressing glycation reactions. Overall, with the broad biological activities, we believe that DHA holds encouraging promise in the cosmetics industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds in Cosmetic Applications)
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21 pages, 4065 KB  
Article
Preparation and Whitening Activity of Sialoglycopeptide of Chalaza from Liquid Egg Process
by Yanzhao Ma, Ziyi Jiang, Xinyi Jin, Jianrong Wu and Minjie Gao
Molecules 2026, 31(1), 59; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules31010059 - 23 Dec 2025
Viewed by 549
Abstract
The liquid egg processing industry generates a significant amount of solid byproduct known as chalaza (CHA), which is rich in sialic acid and exhibits notable biological activity. In this study, the preparation process, N-glycan profile, and skin-whitening activity of CHA-derived glycopeptides (CHAH) were [...] Read more.
The liquid egg processing industry generates a significant amount of solid byproduct known as chalaza (CHA), which is rich in sialic acid and exhibits notable biological activity. In this study, the preparation process, N-glycan profile, and skin-whitening activity of CHA-derived glycopeptides (CHAH) were investigated. By comparing the hydrolysis efficiency of trypsin, alcalase, and papain, a dual-enzyme hydrolysis strategy was developed: initial hydrolysis with 1.5% trypsin for 3 h, followed by treatment with 1% papain for 2 h. The resulting CHAH exhibited both a high hydrolysis yield and strong antioxidant activity. The sialic acid content in CHAH reached 1.96% (w/w), and 14 distinct N-glycan chain structures were identified. The whitening effect of CHAH was assessed using a combined approach involving an in vitro B16 cell model and an in vivo zebrafish model. CHAH was found to inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduce melanin production in a concentration-dependent manner. Mechanistic studies revealed that CHAH acts by significantly downregulating the expression of key genes involved in melanin synthesis, including MITF, TYR, TYRP1, and TYRP2. This study establishes an efficient preparation method for CHAH, elucidates its skin-whitening efficacy and underlying mechanism, and provides experimental support for the potential industrial application of CHAH as an active ingredient in skincare products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds in Cosmetic Applications)
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