Next Article in Journal
Loads and Response of a Tension Leg Platform Wind Turbine with Non-Rotating Blades: An Experimental Study
Next Article in Special Issue
Mathematical Modeling Framework of Physical Effects Induced by Sediments Handling Operations in Marine and Coastal Areas
Previous Article in Journal
Oil Spill Scenarios in the Kotor Bay: Results from High Resolution Numerical Simulations
Open AccessArticle

Influence of Underwater Bar Location on Cross-Shore Sediment Transport in the Coastal Zone

1
Zubov State Oceanographic Institute of Roshydromet, Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow 119034, Russia
2
Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow 117997, Russia
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(3), 55; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7030055
Received: 31 December 2018 / Revised: 19 February 2019 / Accepted: 21 February 2019 / Published: 26 February 2019
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Marine Sediments: Processes, Transport and Environmental Aspects)
The effect of the underwater bar position on a sandy beach profile was studied on a timescale of one storm, using the XBeach numerical model. The largest shoreline regress occurred in the first hour of storm. For the chosen wave regime an underwater profile close to the theoretical Dean’s equilibrium profile is formed after 6 h. The position of the underwater bar affects the shoreline retreat rate. The lowest shore retreat occurs when the bar crest is located at a distance equal to 0.70–0.82 of the deep-water wavelength, corresponding to the period of the wave spectrum peak. The maximal shoreline retreat occurs when the bar is located at a distance that is close to a half wavelength. The shoreline recession depends on the heights of low-frequency waves. The smaller the mean wave period and the higher low-frequency waves’ height near the coast, the smaller the retreat of the shoreline. The distance of seaward sediment transfer is directly proportional to the significant wave height near shore. View Full-Text
Keywords: coastal zone; storm deformations; underwater bar; XBeach; wave transformation; cross-shore sediment transport; equilibrium profile coastal zone; storm deformations; underwater bar; XBeach; wave transformation; cross-shore sediment transport; equilibrium profile
Show Figures

Figure 1

MDPI and ACS Style

Kuznetsova, O.; Saprykina, Y. Influence of Underwater Bar Location on Cross-Shore Sediment Transport in the Coastal Zone. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 55.

Show more citation formats Show less citations formats
Note that from the first issue of 2016, MDPI journals use article numbers instead of page numbers. See further details here.

Article Access Map

1
Back to TopTop