Search Results (58)

This study examines the evolution of a beach formed along the coastline of a semi-enclosed, essentially tideless, embayment in the eastern Mediterranean Sea. The analysis revealed that the primary factors influencing its recent evolution are the terrestrial sediment influxes, current nearshore oceanographic conditions, and the existence of coastal constructions. The beach zone is exposed to waves approaching from the south with extreme values of height and period of 7 m and 4.3 s, respectively. Associated morphodynamic characteristics include a closure depth of 7 m, a breaking depth of 4.3 m, and a maximum run-up of 2.4 m. Since the mid-1900s, the shoreline has evolved through an accretional phase from 1960 to 1988, followed by a retreating phase from 1989 to 1997, except in the central part, where progradation has continued. The most recent period (1998–2017) has been relatively stable, though with a slight retreating trend. During storm events, changes to the beach are not uniform along-shore. Gross estimates of beach retreat due to sea level rise induced by climate change threaten the existence of the entire beach (for moderate and extreme IPCC Special Report Emissions Scenarios); however, this does not seem to be the case if riverine sediment influx continues. Full article

Thermal discharge from power plants causes significant concerns in aquatic environments. The purpose of this study is to evaluate how river mouth morphodynamics, particularly spit development and removal, influence the dispersion of thermal plumes. To achieve this, a case study was carried out at a coastal power plant in southwest Türkiye, where thermal effluent is conveyed to the sea through a low-flow river. Field measurements combined with numerical modeling were used to analyze plume dynamics under varying spit configurations. Results revealed that the evolution of a spit on one side of the river mouth influences plume dispersion and redirects the mixing zone toward the opposite shoreline. Numerical simulations demonstrated that spit development reduces dispersion efficiency (by over 75%), while the physical removal of the spit significantly improves it, reducing temperature excess from 4–5 °C to 0–1 °C within the mixing zone, meeting safe environmental standards. The findings highlight the pivotal role of morphological changes in governing thermal discharge behavior and emphasize the importance of continuous monitoring and management strategies, such as periodic dredging, to ensure compliance with environmental regulations. Full article

In a coastal engineering project, hydrodynamic models are used to study wave transformations and impacts on structures, while morphodynamic models are applied to calculate the response and evolution of sedimentary beaches. Conventionally, laboratory experiments and numerical modeling have been called to investigate beach changes, particularly those resulting in the formation of an embayed beach. The former is undertaken in a wave basin, necessitating a huge outdoor facility to fit a project with large dimensions, numerous instrumentations, and manpower, while the latter is performed by powerful numerical models on a desktop, requiring only the advent of computing power and professional skills. Conventionally, both approaches have successfully achieved the expected outcome, though differing in cost and time frame. On the contrary, an efficient empirical geomorphic model for headland-bay beaches has been available since 1989 for assessing the planform stability of a crenulated beach in static equilibrium. The model can readily produce a graphic display of the static bay shape aided by a supporting software within a shorter time frame (in a couple of minutes), instead of in hours or days in laboratory tests and numerical modeling. Several practical examples drawn by the software MeePaSoL for the empirical model are presented to complement the results of a morphodynamic model in a wave basin, as well as to guide the modeler to terminate the programming when equilibrium is reached. We believe this alternative approach could be helpful for the experimentalists and numerical modelers on large engineering projects associated with shoreline beach evolution and shore protection, especially for time-saving and reducing manpower and cost. Full article

Coastal foredune blowout is a significant indicator of shoreline retreat, activation of backshore dune fields, and land desertification. Among current research on the terminal phase of coastal foredune blowouts, few studies explain blowouts’ morphological and airflow interaction mechanisms in the late stage through comprehensive field surveys and observations. In this study, the coastal blowout on the foredune at Tannanwan Beach, Pingtan Island, China, is investigated to explore the morphodynamics and evolutionary characteristics of blowout morphology. High-resolution RTK GPS technology and two-dimensional ultrasonic anemometers are utilized to repeatedly measure and observe the morphology of late-stage bowl blowouts. The results revealed that the following: (1) During the entire survey period, the bowl blowout is characterized by deepening erosion of the lateral walls and accretion in the deflation basin, with the maximum erosion depth on the east lateral wall reaching up to 3.99 m and the maximum accumulation height occurring in the front half of the deflation basin. (2) The wind direction and the morphology of the bowl blowout significantly impact the airflow characteristics within the blowout, and the airflow distribution within the blowout further affects the development of the blowout morphology. (3) The bowl blowout is in the late stage of its life cycle. Full article

Sediment transport and shoreline changes causing shoreline morphodynamic evolution are key indicators of a coastal structure’s operational continuity. To reduce the computational costs associated with sediment transport modelling tools, a novel procedure based on the combination of a support vector machine for image classification and a trained neural network to extrapolate the shore evolution is presented here. The current study focuses on the coastal area over the Amir-Abad port, using high-resolution satellite images. The real conditions of the study domain between 2004 and 2023 are analysed, with the aim of investigating changes in the shore area, shoreline position, and sediment appearance in the harbour basin. The measurements show that sediment accumulation increases by approximately 49,000 m²/y. A portion of the longshore sediment load is also trapped and deposited in the harbour basin, disrupting the normal operation of the port. Afterwards, satellite images were used to quantitatively analyse shoreline changes. A neural network is trained to predict the remaining time until the reservoir is filled (less than a decade), which is behind the west arm of the rubble-mound breakwaters. Harbour utility services will no longer be offered if actions are not taken to prevent sediment accumulation. Full article

A quantitative understanding of the migration of munitions and canonical objects in the nearshore is needed for the effective management of contaminated sites. Migrations of munitions with a density range of 2000 kg/m³ to 5720 kg/m³ were quantified in a large-scale wave flume. The forcing consisted of six cases of varying wave heights, periods, still water depths, and durations. The cross-shore profile, typical of natural sandy beaches, was sub-divided into swash, surf, and offshore zones. Overall, 2228 migration measurements were recorded with 16% and 84% of the migration observations classified as “motion” (net distance > 0.5 m) and “no motion” (net distance ≤ 0.5 m), respectively. The probability of munitions migration increased with proximity to the shoreline. There was a nearly equal probability of onshore or offshore migration in the swash zone. Migration in the surf zone tended to be offshore-directed (65%), while migration was onshore-dominant (65%) in the offshore zone. Migration in the offshore zone was preferentially onshore due to skewed waves over flat bathymetry. Less dense munitions in the offshore zone may have migrated offshore likely still related to the skewed nature of the wave profile causing transport in both directions through the majority of the wave phase. The largest migration distances occurred in the surf zone likely due to downslope gravity. Migration in the surf and swash zones is a balance between skewed/asymmetric forcing and downslope gravity, with downslope gravity tending to be pronounced provided the forcing is sufficient to initiate motion. An exception was sometimes observed in the swash zone where onshore forcing was sufficient to transport munitions to the seaward side of the berm where they became trapped in a bathymetric depression between the dune and berm. Relating overall migration (Lagrangian) to fixed hydrodynamic measurements (Eulerian) was ineffective. Parameters such as the Shields number, wave skewness, and wave asymmetry estimated from the closest measurement location were insufficient to predict migration. Large scatter in the migration data resulting from competing hydrodynamic, morphodynamic, and munitions response processes makes robust deterministic predictions with flow statistics and dimensionless numbers difficult. Full article

This study conducts a morphodynamic analysis of beaches located in the northern sector of the Gulf of Roses (NW Mediterranean, Spain). The primary objective is to investigate mid-short (2004–2020) term spatial and temporal variations in shoreline position and sedimentological behaviour. The study area covers the northern part of the gulf, spanning 9.86 km, and includes both natural beaches and heavily anthropized ones. The following GIS methodologies were employed to study the variations in the coastline: QGIS for areas and DSAS-ArcGIS for transects, quantifying coastal changes from 2004 to 2020. Sediment samples were collected from both the dry beach and swash areas for each profile. The results reveal minor discrepancies in shoreline evolution data, depending on the method used (transects or areas). Profile-based analysis shows an average annual rate of −0.11 m·y⁻¹ (ranging between 0.53 and −0.55 m·y⁻¹), while areal-based results (2004–2020) indicate a total loss of −20,810 m² (−1300 m²·y⁻¹). Sediment grain size decreases northward (from 745 to 264 µm in the swash zone). Changes in shoreline position and grain size illustrate the impact of various anthropogenic structures on morphodynamic behaviour. These structures preferentially deposit specific grain sizes and impede sediment transport, which will cause an advance in the position of the shoreline and sediment grain sizes upstream and a reverse process downstream. This study underscores the influence of coastal anthropization on beach morphology and sedimentology, generating distinct morphodynamic behaviour. Full article

Understanding beach dynamics, both in time and in space, is paramount to better understand how and when to intervene to improve coastal management strategies. Beach morphodynamics is expressed in a variety of ways. As indicators of beach change, we can measure the shoreline, the beach topography, and the bathymetry; e.g., in situ measurements rarely cover large extents, are often collected on a local scale (beach), and rarely cover a sufficient time span with a sufficient surveying frequency or a simultaneous measurement of the beach and bar system. Regular-revisit satellites, such as the ESA’s Sentinel-2 mission, provide the opportunity to regularly monitor both shoreline and sandbar dynamics, and the time span is increasing and likely to continue for the decades to come. Using the satellite-derived shoreline and bar position, here, we show that the shoreline and bar are intrinsically coupled. Using Sentinel-2 satellite imagery, we show that the actual erosion/accretion status of the beach at Saint Louis (Senegal) is strongly influenced by the sandbar dynamics. There is a coupled behavior in their seasonal evolution and trend. Our results show that a very large accretive wave of about 50 m observed on the beach is driven by a local welding of the inner sandbar to the beach. Finally, we conclude that this type of event could be anticipated by an analysis of the sandbar. Full article

The protection against a storm event provided by nourishment to Costa da Caparica beaches near Lisbon, Portugal, is investigated numerically with a two-dimensional-horizontal morphodynamic model able to generate and propagate the longer infragravity waves. The beach has a groyne field and a multi-typology backshore. The nourishment of 10⁶ m³ of sand was placed at the beach face and backshore. Pre- and post-nourishment topo-bathymetric surveys of the beach, which suffers from chronic erosion, were performed under a monitoring program. The morphodynamics of the pre- and post-nourished beach when exposed to a simulated historically damaging storm event and the post-storm morphologies were compared to evaluate the efficacy of the nourishment. Results indicate that the lower surface level of the beach face and backshore of the pre-nourished beach induces a larger erosion volume. The nourishment prevented the extreme retreat of the shoreline that occurred during the storm in the pre-nourished beach and reduced the storm-induced erosion volume by 20%, thus protecting the beach effectively against the storm. The beach backshore typology (seawall vs. dune) exerts differential influences on the sandy bottom. As a result, multi-typology backshores induce alongshore variability in cross-shore dynamics. The backshore seawalls exposed to direct wave action cause higher erosion volumes and a larger cross-shore extension of the active zone. The most vulnerable alongshore sectors of the beach were identified and related to the mechanisms responsible for the erosion phenomenon. These findings strengthen the importance of sand nourishment for the protection and sustainability of beaches, particularly those with a seawall at the backshore, where storm events cause higher erosion. Full article

Coastal erosion poses significant challenges to shoreline management, exacerbated by rising sea levels and changing climate patterns. This study investigates the influence of gap spacing between semicircular coastal defence structures on shoreline dynamics during storm events. The innovative design of these structures aims to induce a drift reversal of prevalent sediment transport while avoiding interruption of alongshore sediment drift, thus protecting the beach. Three different gap spacings, ranging from 152 m to 304 m, were analysed using the XBeach numerical model, focusing on storm morphodynamic behaviour. Methodologically, hydrodynamic and morphodynamic analyses were conducted to understand variations in significant wave heights adjacent to the structures, in accretion and erosion volumes, and changes in bed level under storm conditions. The study aims to elucidate the complex interaction between engineered coastal protection solutions and natural coastal processes, providing practical insights for coastal management practices. Results indicate that installing semicircular coastal defence structures influences sediment dynamics during storm events, effectively protecting stretches of the coast at risk. Optimal gap spacing between structures is crucial to mitigating coastal erosion and enhancing sediment accumulation, offering a sustainable shoreline protection approach. The findings underscore the importance of balanced location selection to optimize protection benefits while minimizing adverse morphological effects. Overall, this research contributes to advancing knowledge of hydro-morphological phenomena essential for effective coastal engineering and informs the design and implementation of more sustainable coastal protection strategies in the face of increasing coastal erosion and sea level rise challenges. Full article

The morphological responses of two mesotidal beaches located in different coastal settings (embayed and open sandy beaches) on the northwestern Iberian coast were monitored during the winter of 2018/19. The offshore wave time series analysis is related to high-resolution topo-bathymetric measurements to explore spatial-temporal morphological variability at monthly to seasonal scales. Both locations are subjected to the North Atlantic wave climate which exhibits a pronounced seasonality. Throughout the last decade (2010–2020), significant wave heights reached values of up to H_s~9 m during winters and up to H_s~6 m during summers. On average, approximately 12 storms occurred annually in this region. The results clearly reveal divergent morphological responses and sediment transport behaviors at the upper beach and the intertidal zone during the winter for each location. In the embayed beach (Patos), sediment transport in the nearshore is governed by cross-shore processes between the beach berm and a submerged sandbar. In contrast, the open beach (Mira) showed dynamic sediment exchanges and three-dimensional morphologies alternating between accumulation and erosion zones. Overall, both beaches exhibited an erosional trend after the winter, particularly concerning berm erosion and the subaerial beach volume/shoreline retreat. This study highlights the contrasting morphodynamic response on open and embayed beaches to winter conditions, integrating both the subaerial and submerged zones. Local geological and environmental factors, as well as the coastal management strategies applied, will influence how the beach responds to winter wave events. Monitoring and understanding these responses are essential for effective coastal management and adaptation to changing climate. Full article

The morphology of some lithified wind-blown, carbonate dunes in The Bahamas preserves the signature of erosion from paleo-marine processes: wave-induced swash, scarping, and longshore transport. Digital elevation models were used to distinguish between two dune morphotypes—those disconnected versus connected to beach processes. Dune sinuosity and upwind slope were quantified and used to interpret which dunes remained beach-attached and subject to marine erosion and processes versus dunes that became disconnected from the shoreline via inland migration or shoreline regression. Disconnected dunes possess low slopes over stoss surfaces with sinuous planforms mimicking their crestlines. Beach-connected foredunes preserve steep, kilometers-long linear upwind faces, which are interpreted to be signatures of beach-dune morphodynamics. Foredune morphology serves as a proxy for shoreline position during past sea-level high-stands, while the basal elevations of their stoss dune toes provide an upper limit on the beach and adjacent sea level. A growing library of digital topography will allow for this tool to be used to interpret global paleo-shoreline positions through time and space. Full article

Coastal erosion has become one of the many natural hazards affecting Chile’s sandy coastlines. Currently, more than 90% of the sandy coasts of Valparaíso show high erosion rates. Cartagena Bay is one of the coastal areas with the greatest transformations caused by extreme events and anthropogenic activities. Satellite imagery is seen as an invaluable resource for following these coastal changes. This study combines optical satellite imagery, a simulation-derived wave climate, in situ data, the SHOREX system developed in Python, and GIS-based tools such as DSAS to quantify rates of change in the Bay from 1986 to 2022. Satellite-derived shorelines were used to identify erosion hotspot areas in the Bay, differentiating the impact of erosive processes associated with ENSO hydrometeorological phenomena, the 27-F 2010 earthquake, and tidal waves from 2015–2022, which led to major transformations in the morphodynamics of the beach. The results show that the Bay is currently undergoing high erosional processes in 20% of the coastline with values <− 1.5 m/year and 60% with erosion rates ranging from [−0.2 to −1.5 m/year]. Since 2015, these processes have been accentuated, due to increased swells throughout the year. Full article

Anegada, the easternmost island of the Virgin Islands group (Caribbean Sea), is a low Pleistocene carbonate platform surrounded by Horseshoe Reef, the world’s third-largest fringing reef. The western part of the island consists of an extensive beachridge plain (>40 ridges). The sandy carbonate shoreline exists in three morphodynamic domains that exhibit distinctive behaviour over the 59-year study period (1953 to 2012). The northern shore is dominated by westerly longshore drift under fair-weather conditions and cross-shore sediment transport during high-energy events. Storm wave run-up and high nearshore sediment availability contribute to the construction of shore-parallel beachridges. The western end of the island is affected by refracted waves that drive strong erosion and sediment transport. This is reflected in a succession of alternating rapid shoreline recession and progradation phases over the study period. The south–central shoreline is exposed to low wave energy and is stable and colonised by mangroves. The fringing reef plays a dominant role in mesoscale shoreline morphodynamics, both as a sediment source and in wave energy dissipation. Quasi-stable points and embayments suggest a strong influence of the reef framework in controlling the shoreline’s morphology and position. Sediment transfer from the reef to the shoreline appears to take place via shore-oblique, linear sediment transport pathways that develop across the lagoon in response to the modification of incoming waves. Cannibalisation of the shoreline sediment over the past 50 years is leading to straightening of the shoreline planform. This is counter to the long-term (Holocene) development of beachridges and suggests a change from a strongly positive to negative sediment budget. Full article

This study assessed the deposition of sediment and shoreline evolution at two newly constructed port facilities in the Bight of Benin, West Africa. Based on the Building with Nature approach, the concept of a sandbar breakwater was implemented at the study sites. The coastal system of the bight is characterized by a sand barrier-lagoon system and a uniform prevailing wave climate, making it a favorable location for this innovative port solution. The case studies were undertaken at the Port of Lomé, Togo, and the Lekki Deep Sea Port (Dangote Sea Port), Nigeria, using remotely sensed shoreline positions and the one-line coastline change model for different periods. After construction of the breakwater, we estimated that the updrift coastline at the two locations accreted in the range of 10–23 m/year and the rates of sediment deposition were estimated to be in the magnitude of 1.0–7.0 × 10⁵ m³/year. The comparative study conducted also showed that these rates could further reach a magnitude of 10⁶ m³/year at other sediment-accreting landforms within the bight. We found that these large magnitudes of longshore sediment transport generated from very oblique incident waves (10°–20°) and sediment input from rivers (in orders of 10⁶ m³/year) have enabled the realization of expected morphodynamic changes on the updrift shoreline of the ports. From these results, downdrift morphological changes should not be underestimated due to potential imbalances induced in the sedimentary budget along the coastline. Future developmental plans within the bight should also continuously aim to adopt nature-based solutions to protect the ecosystem while mitigating unforeseen implications. Full article