Search Results (42)

The growing demand for natural and sustainable skincare products has driven interest in plant-based active ingredients, especially from in vitro cultures. This placebo-controlled study investigated the impact of a facial cream containing 2% Kickxia elatine (L.) Dumort cell suspension culture extract on various skin biophysical parameters. The cream was applied to the cheek once daily for six weeks on 40 healthy female volunteers between the ages of 40 to 49. The evaluated skin parameters including skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema intensity (EI), melanin intensity (MI), skin surface pH, and skin structure, wrinkle depth, vascular lesions, and vascular discolouration. The results indicated that significant improvements were observed in skin hydration (from 40.36 to 63.00 AU, p < 0.001) and there was a decrease in TEWL score (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001), while the skin surface pH was maintained (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001). Moreover, the K. elatine cell extract significantly improved skin structure values (9.23 to 8.50, p = 0.028), reduced vascular lesions (2.72 to 1.54 mm², p = 0.011), and lowered skin discolouration (20.98% to 14.84%, p < 0.001), indicating its moisturising, protective, brightening, and soothing properties. These findings support the potential use of K. elatine cell extract in dermocosmetic formulations targeting dry, sensitive, or ageing skin. Full article

Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are increasingly transforming the landscape of cosmetic formulation, enabling the development of safer, more effective, and personalized products. This article explores how AI-driven predictive modeling is applied across various components of cosmetic products, including surfactants, polymers, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, and prebiotics. These technologies are employed to forecast critical properties such as texture, stability, and shelf-life, optimizing both product performance and user experience. The integration of computational toxicology and ML algorithms also allows for early prediction of skin sensitization risks, including the likelihood of adverse events such as allergic contact dermatitis. Furthermore, AI models can support efficacy assessment, bridging formulation science with dermatological outcomes. The article also addresses the ethical, regulatory, and safety challenges associated with AI in cosmetic science, underlining the need for transparency, accountability, and harmonized standards. The potential of AI to reshape dermocosmetic innovation is vast, but it must be approached with robust oversight and a commitment to user well-being. Full article

In the context of modern dermocosmetic development, multifunctional topical gel-cream formulations must be efficient for both therapeutic efficacy and cosmetic applications. This study presents a comparative physicochemical and pharmacotechnical analysis of three topical gel-cream formulations developed by Brand Chanand^®: Acne Control Cleanser (ACC), Acne Face Cream (AFC), and Gentle Cream Cleanser Serum Control, Regenerating, Hydrating, Calming (IRC). Each formulation is enriched with a specific blend of bioactive compounds, including botanical oils, vitamins, and proteins, designed to treat acne, to support skin regeneration, and to maintain the skin barrier. A multidisciplinary approach was used, including Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy with Attenuated Total Reflectance (FTIR-ATR), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), rheological evaluation, pH and density determination, spreadability analysis, and oxidative stability testing to evaluate the products. Antioxidant capacity was assessed through multiple in vitro assays. The results demonstrated that all three gel-cream formulations exhibit pseudoplastic rheological behaviour, suitable for topical application. AFC showed the highest oxidative stability and antioxidant activity, while IRC presented superior spreadability and cosmetic efficacy, likely due to its complex composition. ACC displayed faster absorption and was ideal for targeted use on oily or acne-prone skin. The differences observed in the stability and performance suggest that the ingredient synergy, base composition, and solubility profiles show notable variations in dermato-cosmetic formulations. These findings highlight the formulation–performance relationship in topical gel-cream formulations and support the development of new cosmetic products tailored for sensitive and acne-prone skin. Full article

Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its lactate form to enhance water solubility and enable nanoparticle formation at physiological pH via ionic gelation with citric acid. The formulation was optimized using Box–Behnken response surface methodology to achieve minimal particle size and maximal zeta potential. The final gel was structured with xanthan gum as the gelling polymer, into which the optimized nanoparticles were incorporated to create a stable and bioactive hydrogel system. Encapsulation efficiency was measured separately to assess the effectiveness of drug loading. The optimized nanoparticles exhibited a mean diameter of 422.02 nm, a zeta potential of +29.49 mV, and a high quercetin encapsulation efficiency (76.9%), corresponding to the proportion of quercetin retained in the nanoparticle matrix relative to the total amount initially used in the formulation. Antioxidant assays (TAC, DPPH, and reducing power) confirmed superior radical-scavenging activity of the nanoformulation compared to the base hydrogel. Antibacterial tests showed strong inhibition against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus, with MIC values comparable to streptomycin. Accelerated stability studies demonstrated excellent physicochemical and microbiological stability over 60 days. This natural, bioactive, and eco-friendly formulation represents a promising platform for next-generation cosmeceuticals targeting oxidative stress and skin-related pathogens. Full article

The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also lead to adverse reactions in patients. The aim of our study was to assess the impact of the tolerability of cosmetics used in routine skin care on quality of life in this vulnerable population group through a survey. In addition, information was collected to improve the knowledge of the beneficial effects of cosmetics and the composition recommended. Hospital nurses guided the patients to fill in the surveys, which were done once. The main uses are related to daily hygiene care, photoprotection, and dermo-cosmetic treatment to prevent or at least reduce the skin’s adverse effects. More than 30% (36.36%) of patients perceived undesirable effects or discomfort with the use of cosmetics (27.27% in the facial area, 27.27% in the body and hands, and 22.73% in the scalp and hair). Intolerance was described for some soaps and creams used in the facial area. This study provides additional evidence on perceived tolerance supporting updates of clinical practice guidelines, highlights consolidated knowledge and evidence on the use of cosmetics, as well as new recommendations on the use and composition of cosmetics intended for oncological patients. There is a need for more knowledge about cosmetic ingredients and formulations, including ingredients of concern, such as endocrine disruptors. Full article

Background/Objectives: This study investigates the physical, rheological, and antioxidant properties of nano-liposomal formulations encapsulating Fumaria officinalis L. (fumitory) extract, focusing on their stability and performance under ultraviolet (UV) exposure, as well as polyphenol release within simulated skin conditions in a Franz diffusion cell. Methods: Liposomal formulations, composed of phospholipids with or without β-sitosterol or ergosterol, were evaluated for their encapsulation efficiency, liposome size, size distribution, zeta potential, viscosity, surface tension, density, oxidative stability, antioxidant capacity, and polyphenol recovery. Results: Encapsulation efficiency was the highest in phospholipid liposomes (72.2%) and decreased with the incorporation of sterols: 66.7% for β-sitosterol and 62.9% for ergosterol liposomes. Encapsulation significantly increased viscosity and reduced surface tension compared to the plain liposomes, suggesting modified interfacial behavior. The inclusion of fumitory extract significantly increased the viscosity of liposomes (from ~2.5 to 6.09–6.78 mPa × s), consistent with the observed reduction in particle size and zeta potential. Antioxidant assays (thiobarbituric acid reactive substances—TBARS, 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid—ABTS, and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl—DPPH) confirmed enhanced lipid peroxidation inhibition and radical scavenging upon encapsulation, with ABTS activity reaching up to 95.05% in sterol-containing liposomes. Release studies showed that the free extract exhibited the fastest polyphenol diffusion (5.09 × 10⁻⁹ m²/s), while liposomes demonstrated slower/controlled release due to bilayer barriers. UV-irradiated liposomes released more polyphenols than untreated ones, particularly in the sterol-containing formulations, due to oxidative destabilization and pore formation. Conclusions: These findings highlight the potential of fumitory extract-loaded liposomes as stable, bioactive carriers with tunable polyphenol antioxidant release properties for dermal applications. Overall, liposomal formulations of fumitory extract exhibit significant potential for further development as a pharmaceutical, cosmetic, or dermo-cosmetic ingredient for use in the prevention and treatment of various skin disorders. Full article

The stability of Cotinus coggygria extract-loaded liposomes (non-treated and UV-irradiated) was determined after 60 days through an investigation of the impact of storage on liposomal physical and antioxidant properties. The liposome size varied in a narrow range for 60 days; PDI was 0.273–0.313 (non-treated) and 0.829–0.911 (UV-irradiated). The zeta potential ranged from −28.2 to −29.6 mV (non-treated) and from −21.5 to −22.0 mV (UV-irradiated). The obtained liposomes with the extract neutralized 81.9% of free DPPH radicals before UV irradiation and 80.9% after irradiation. In the ABTS assay, UV irradiation also significantly reduced the antioxidant capacity, from 12.02 to 10.55 µmol Trolox equivalent (TE)/mL. The ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging activity of the UV-irradiated liposomes significantly decreased after the 60-day storage (8.93 µmol TE/mL and 75.4%, respectively), whereas in the non-treated sample, the mentioned drop in antioxidant capacity was not noticed. Liposomal formulations of C. coggygria extract can exhibit significant potential for further development as a functional food or dermo-cosmetic ingredient. Full article

In this study, vesicular lipid systems and semi-solid formulations for the skin application of Palmitoyl-GHK were formulated and characterized. Palmitoyl-GHK is a cosmetic peptide with anti-aging action, capable of treating the signs of skin aging by mainly stimulating collagen synthesis in the dermis. The so-called “ethosomes” were evaluated as nanovesicular systems constituted of phosphatidylcholine, organized in vesicles, ethanol, and water. In addition, semi-solid systems were produced and characterized, namely an organogel based on phosphatidylcholine, isopropyl palmitate, and water, a gel based on Poloxamer 407, and the poloxamer organogel, created by combining organogel and Poloxamer gel. To make the ethosomal dispersions suitable for skin application, xanthan gum was added as a gelling agent. Studies were therefore carried out on semi-solid formulations to determine (i) the spreadability, a key factor that influences various aspects of a topical/transdermal formulation, (ii) the occlusive factor, important to guarantee good effectiveness of a dermocosmetic product, and finally, (iii) the hydrating power, to study the effect of a formulation applied to the skin. A formulation study enabled the selection of the most suitable formulations for the incorporation of the active ingredient of interest. Palmitoyl-GHK was found to be soluble both in ethosomes and in the poloxamer organogel. In vitro studies were therefore conducted to evaluate the release kinetics of Palmitoyl-GHK from the formulations, via Franz cells. The qualitative–quantitative analysis, through analytical HPLC, highlighted that the active ingredient is released more slowly from semi-solid formulations compared to vesicular systems; in particular, the presence of poloxamer allows a controlled release of the peptide. Further studies will be necessary to verify the anti-aging efficacy of formulations containing the peptide. Full article

In this study, we present a novel approach using amperometric microsensors to detect quercetin in cosmetic formulations and track its metabolic behavior after topical application. This method offers a sensitive, real-time alternative to conventional techniques, enabling the detection of quercetin’s bioavailability, its transformation into active metabolites, and its potential therapeutic effects when applied to the skin. Quercetin (Q) is a bioactive flavonoid known for its potent antioxidant properties, naturally present in numerous plants, particularly those with applications in cosmetic formulations. In response to the growing interest in developing novel plant-based dermo-cosmetic solutions, this study investigates the electrochemical detection of quercetin, a ketone-type flavonoid, extracted from Gingko biloba essential oil. Three newly designed amperometric microsensors were developed to assess their efficacy in detecting quercetin in botanical samples. The sensor configurations utilized two forms of carbon material as a foundation: graphite (G) and carbon nanoparticles (CNs). These base materials were modified with paraffin oil, chitosan (CHIT), and cobalt(II) tetraphenylporphyrin (Co(II)TPP) to enhance sensitivity. Differential pulse voltammetry (DPV) served as the analytical method for this investigation. Among the sensors, the CHIT/G–CN microsensor exhibited the highest sensitivity, with a detection limit of 1.22 × 10⁻⁷ mol L⁻¹, followed by the G–CN (5.64 × 10⁻⁸ mol L⁻¹) and Co(II)TPP/G–CN (9.80 × 10⁻⁸ mol L⁻¹) microsensors. The minimum detectable concentration was observed with the G–CN and CoP/G–CN microsensors, achieving a threshold as low as 0.0001 μmol L⁻¹. Recovery rates and relative standard deviation (RSD) values averaged 97.4% ± 0.43, underscoring the sensors’ reliability for quercetin detection in botanical matrices. Full article

Essential oils (EOs) are known for their diverse bioactivities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, skin-barrier repairing and anticancer, and therefore, hold profound potential to be used in cosmetic and skincare products. Owing to these properties, EOs have long been utilized to address a range of dermatological issues, from acne and inflammation to aging and dryness. However, problems associated with EOs beset their practical applications, which include high volatility, oxidation, hydrophobic nature, low bioavailability, skin irritation, chemical transformation and poor stability in air and light. A prospective of nanolipidic formulations, including the nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) system for improved skin delivery of these EOs highlights the possibility of their use in topical applications, which offer several advantages such as improved bioavailability and stability, lower toxicity and higher drug content. These nanoformulations protect the EOs from environmental degradation and improve their penetration into deeper skin layers, leading to prolonged therapeutic benefits. The delivery of bioactive agents using a conventional topical preparation exhibits low penetration, frequent applications, poor adherence and prolonged therapy duration, whereas the novel delivery system exhibits improved stability of the drug, enhanced skin penetration, enhanced retention and better therapeutic efficacy. This review provides a comprehensive compendium of information on EOs, which are widely used in skincare, along with their nanolipidic formulations for maximized skincare uses. The mechanism of action of EOs as skin bioactive agents, challenges associated with their use, advances in nanolipidic formulations and their market value as cosmetic skincare products are also explored. Full article

Backgrounds/Objectives: Skin wound healing is a physiological process orchestrated by epithelial and mesenchymal cells able to restore tissue continuity by re-organizing themselves and the ECM. This research study aimed to develop an optimized in vitro experimental model of full-thickness skin, to address molecular and morphological modifications occurring in the re-epithelization and wound healing process. Methods: Wound healing starting events were investigated within an experimental window of 8 days at the molecular level by gene expression and immunofluorescence of key epidermal and dermal biomarkers. To mirror the behavior of infected wounds, the established wound healing model was then colonized with S. aureus, and the efficacy of a novel antibacterial agent, XZ.700, was investigated. Viable counts (CFU/tissue), IF, and ultrastructural analysis (SEM) were performed to evaluate S. aureus colonization inside and around the wound bed in an experimental window of 3 h of colonization and 24 h of treatment. Results: Endolysin showed an efficacy in counteracting bacterial growth and invasion within the wound bed, reducing the S. aureus load compared to its placebo, thanks to its selective antimicrobial activity interfering with biofilm formation. Conclusions: The preclinical in vitro infected wound model on FT-kin showed interesting applications to assess the repair efficacy of dermo-pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. Full article

The use of clays for thermal treatments and cosmetic purposes continues to be a worldwide practice, whether through the preservation of native cultural traditions, pharmaceutical formulations or integrative health and well-being practices. Special clays, such as bentonites, are very common for healing applications due to their high cation exchange capacity (CEC), high specific surface area (SSA) and alkaline pH values and, therefore, are used in multiple therapeutic and dermocosmetic treatments. Numerous bentonitic deposits occur on Porto Santo Island with different chemical weathering degrees. This research evaluates which residual soils have the most suitable characteristics for pelotherapy. The texture of residual soils varies from silt loam to loamy sand and SSA between 39 and 90 m²/g. The pH is alkaline (8.7 to 9.6), electrical conductivity ranges from 242 to 972 µS/cm, and CEC from 50.4 to 86.8 µS/cm. The residual soils have a siliciclastic composition (41.36 to 54.02% SiO₂), between 12.52 and 17.65% Al₂O₃ and between 52 and 82% smectite content, which are montmorillonite and nontronite. Specific heat capacity (0.5–0.9 J/g°C) and cooling kinetics (14.5–19 min) show that one residual soil has the potential to be suitable for pelotherapy according to the literature. Moreover, the residual soils have As, Cd, Co, Cr, Hg, Mn, Ni, Pb, Sb and V concentrations higher than the limits of guidelines for cosmetics and pharmaceutical products. Full article

Rutin, a flavonoid found in various plants, has gained attention for its potential applications in the cosmetic industry due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and potential photoprotective properties. Our review explored the use of rutin (rutoside, 3-O-rutinoside-quercetin) in cosmetics/dermocosmetics, focusing on its physicochemical properties and stability, cutaneous permeability, and efficacy in sunscreen systems, involving in vitro tests and the current state of clinical trials. Rutin’s ability to scavenge free radicals, prevent peroxidation, and reduce vascular fragility makes this flavonoid a promising ingredient for photoprotection. Studies have shown that rutin can enhance the sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreen formulations, especially when combined with organic UV filters. The encapsulation of rutin in nanostructures has also been investigated to improve its applicability. Overall, rutin shows potential as a safe and effective ingredient in cosmetics/dermocosmetics, offering protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation and oxidative stress on the skin, as well as being a feasible strategy for developing environmentally friendly multifunctional sunscreens. Full article

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed for AD are precisely formulated with ingredients targeting critical and often early symptoms of AD (e.g., itch, inflammation, damaged skin barrier). Dermo-cosmetic products, which are rich in moisturizing and emollient agents contributing to recovery as well as strengthening the skin barrier, have proven to be excellent adjuncts in AD treatment. There are various galenic forms of dermo-cosmetics, such as lotions, gels, creams, foams, and sprays, requiring a rationale in choosing ingredients for the product formulation and development. In addition, the role of moisturizer and emollient therapy to address skin dryness linked to dermatological conditions is hugely dependent on varying chemistry and morphology in the deeper regions of the skin. There are also limits to the efficacy of treatments, corticosteroid side effects, and product sensory appeal, which may decrease patient acceptance and compliance. The objective of this review is thus to offer a comprehensive overview of the critical aspects involved in the development of cosmetic vehicles, as well as a detailed examination of the primary ingredients used in formulations for AD. Full article

The aim of this work is research dedicated to the search for new bactericidal systems for use in cosmetic formulations, dermocosmetics, or the production of wound dressings. Over the last two decades, chitosan, due to its special biological activity, has become a highly indispensable biopolymer with very wide application possibilities. Reports in the literature on the antibacterial effects of chitosan are very diverse, but our research has shown that they can be successfully improved through chemical modification. Therefore, in this study, results on the synthesis of new chitosan-based Schiff bases, dCsSB-SFD and dCsSB-PCA, are obtained using two aldehydes: sodium 4-formylbenzene-1,3-disulfonate (SFD) and 2-pyridine carboxaldehyde (PCA), respectively. Chitosan derivatives synthesized in this way demonstrate stronger antimicrobial activity. Carrying out the procedure of grafting chitosan with a caproyl chain allowed obtaining compatible blends of chitosan derivatives with κ-carrageenan, which are stable hydrogels with a high swelling coefficient. Furthermore, the covalently bounded poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) chain improved the solubility of obtained polymers in organic solvents. In this respect, the Schiff base-containing polymers obtained in this study, with special hydrogel and antimicrobial properties, are very promising materials for potential use as a controlled-release formulation of both hydrophilic and hydrophobic drugs in cosmetic products for skin health. Full article