Search Results (449)

Resveratrol is a natural stilbene known for its wide range of biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging effects. However, its application in cosmetics and dermatology is limited by poor stability and bioavailability. Azelaic acid is a natural carboxylic acid employed in cosmetics for its tyrosinase inhibition activity and for cutaneous hyperpigmentation disorders. In this work, we report a concise chemoenzymatic procedure for the synthesis of a novel hybrid molecule combining acetylated resveratrol and azelaic acid. This methodology offers a valuable route for the development of new bioactive compounds for potential cosmetic and dermatological applications. Full article

Metagenomic studies have provided deeper insights into the complex interactions between the skin and its microbiota. However, limited research has been conducted on the skin microbiota of Brazilian women. Given that Brazil ranks as the fourth-largest consumer of cosmetics worldwide, the development of new tools to analyze skin microbiota is crucial for formulating cosmetic products that promote a healthy microbiome. Skin samples were analyzed using the Illumina platform. Biometrology assessments were applied. The results showed pH variations were more pronounced in the older age group, along with higher transepidermal water loss values. Metagenomic analysis showed a predominance of Actinobacteria (83%), followed by Proteobacteria (7%), Firmicutes (9%) and Bacteroidetes (1%). In the older group (36–45 years old), an increase in Actinobacteria (87%) was observed and a decrease in Proteobacteria (6%). Moreover, the results differ from the international literature, since an increase in proteobacteria (13.9%) and a decrease in actinobacteria (46.7%) were observe in aged skin. The most abundant genus identified was Propionibacterium (84%), being the dominant species. Interestingly, previous studies have suggested a decline in Cutibacterium abundance with aging; although there is no significant difference, it is possible to observe an increasing trend in this genus in older skin. These studies can clarify many points about the skin microbiota of Brazilian women, and these findings could lead to the development of new cosmetics based on knowledge of the skin microbiome. Full article

Aloe vera gel is a valuable raw material used in the cosmetic industry for its skin care properties. The present study analyzed the effects of the fermentation of aloe vera gel with a tea fungus kombucha, which is a symbiotic consortium of bacteria and yeast, carried out for 10 and 20 days (samples F10 and F20, respectively). The resulting ferments and unfermented gel were subjected to chromatographic analysis to determine the content of biologically active compounds. The permeability and accumulation of these compounds in pig skin were evaluated. In addition, the methods of DPPH, ABTS and the determination of intracellular free radical levels in keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (HDF) cell lines were used to determine antioxidant potential. The results showed a higher content of phenolic acids and flavonoids and better antioxidant properties of the ferments, especially after 20 days of fermentation. Cytotoxicity tests against HaCaT and HDF cells confirmed the absence of toxic effects; moreover, samples at the concentrations tested (mainly 10 and 25 mg/mL) showed cytoprotective effects. The analysis of enzymatic activity (collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase) by the ELISA technique showed higher levels of inhibition for F10 and F20. The kombucha ferments also exhibited better moisturizing properties and lower levels of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), confirming their cosmetic potential. Full article

A number of marine resources have been exploited for a long time. Examples include Fucus and Laminaria, from which gelling agents are extracted. Only a few hundred thousand marine species are currently known, representing a tiny fraction of the estimated total of between 700,000 and one million species. This opens up numerous possibilities for innovation in the cosmetics industry. In this study, we present various species that are currently under-exploited, but which could have applications in hydration and photoprotection, for example. Algae and microalgae are worthy of interest because they can be used for hydration and anti-ageing purposes. Collagen can be extracted from animal sources and used as a substitute for collagen of bovine origin. From a marketing perspective, it is possible to market it as ‘marine collagen’. However, it is imperative to emphasize the significance of ensuring the sustainability of the resource. In accordance with this imperative, algae that are capable of being cultivated are distinguished by their enhanced qualities. Full article

In recent decades, there has been a marked surge in the development of marine-by-product-derived ingredients for cosmetic applications, driven by the increasing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. Marine animal by-products, particularly those from fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, represent an abundant yet underutilized source of bioactive compounds with notable potential in cosmeceutical innovation. Generated as waste from the fishery and seafood-processing industries, these materials are rich in valuable bioactives, such as chitosan, collagen, peptides, amino acids, fatty acids, polar lipids, lipid-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, pigments, phenolics, and mineral-based substrates like hydroxyapatite. Marine by-product bioactives can be isolated via several extraction methods, and most importantly, green ones. These compounds exhibit a broad spectrum of skin-health-promoting effects, including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, anti-wrinkle, anti-hyperpigmentation, and wound-healing properties. Moreover, applications extend beyond skincare to include hair, nail, and oral care. The present review provides a comprehensive analysis of bioactives obtained from marine mollusks, crustaceans, and fish by-products, emphasizing modern extraction technologies with a focus on green and sustainable approaches. It further explores their mechanisms of action and documented efficacy in cosmetic formulations. Finally, the review outlines current limitations and offers future perspectives for the industrial valorization of marine by-products in functional and environmentally-conscious cosmetic development. Full article

Background: Blackberry seed oil (BSO), obtained from Rubus spp. Xavante cultivar via supercritical CO₂ extraction, contains bioactive lipids and antioxidants, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor solubility and stability. Nanoencapsulation with poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) can overcome these limitations. Methods: BSO was characterized by Ultra-High-Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry and incorporated into PCL nanocapsules (NCBSO) using the preformed polymer deposition method. Physicochemical properties, stability (at 4 °C, room temperature, and 37 °C for 90 days), cytotoxicity, and collagen production were assessed in human fibroblasts. Additionally, a predictive in silico analysis using PASS Online, Molinspiration, and SEA platforms was performed to identify the bioactivities of major BSO compounds related to collagen synthesis, antioxidant potential, and anti-aging effects. Results: NCBSO showed a nanometric size of ~267 nm, low polydispersity (PDI < 0.2), negative zeta potential (−28 mV), and spherical morphology confirmed by FE-SEM. The dispersion remained stable across all tested temperatures, preserving pH and colloidal properties. In particular, BSO and NCBSO at 100 µg.mL⁻¹ significantly enhanced in vitro collagen production by 170% and 200%, respectively, compared to untreated cells (p < 0.01). Superior bioactivity was observed for NCBSO. The in silico results support the role of key compounds in promoting collagen biosynthesis and protecting skin structure. No cytotoxic effects were achieved. Conclusions: The nanoencapsulation of BSO into PCL nanocapsules ensured formulation stability and potentiated collagen production. These findings support the potential of NCBSO as a promising candidate for future development as a collagen-boosting cosmeceutical. Full article

Type I collagen is a major protein in animals, and its hydrolyzed products, collagen peptides, have wide-ranging applications. This article reviews collagen peptides’ preparation methods, biological activities, and application progress in the fields of food, cosmetics, and medicine. By employing various extraction and hydrolysis methods, collagen peptides with different molecular weights can be obtained, and their biological activities are closely related to their molecular weight and amino acid sequence. Studies have revealed that collagen peptides possess a variety of biological activities, including antioxidant, hematopoietic promotion, osteogenic differentiation promotion, antihypertensive, and anti-diabetic effects. In the food industry, their antioxidant and hypoglycemic properties have opened new avenues for the development of healthy foods; in the cosmetics field, the moisturizing, anti-aging, and repair functions of collagen peptides are favored by consumers; in the medical field, collagen peptides are used in wound dressings, drug carriers, and tissue engineering scaffolds. Looking to the future, the development of green and efficient preparation technologies for collagen peptides and in-depth research into the relationship between their structure and function will be important research directions. The multifunctional properties of collagen peptides provide a broad prospect for their further application in the health industry. Full article

The cigarette production from Nicotiana tabacum generates significant amounts of waste, with an estimated 68.31 million tons of pre- and post-harvest waste discarded annually. The pre-harvest waste includes the upper parts of the plant, inflorescences, and bracts, which are removed to help the growth of the lower leaves. This study explores the potential of apical leaves from Nicotiana tabacum var. Virginia, discarded during the budding stage (pre-harvest waste). The leaves were extracted using environmentally friendly solvents (green solvents), including distilled water (DW) and two natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs), one consisting of simple sugars, fructose, glucose, and sucrose (FGS) and the other consisting of choline chloride and urea (CU). The anti-inflammatory and anti-aging potential of these green extracts was assessed by the inhibition of key enzymes related to skin aging. The xanthine oxidase and lipoxygenase activities were mostly inhibited by CU extracts with IC₅₀ values of 63.50 and 8.0 μg GAE/mL, respectively. The FGS extract exhibited the greatest hyaluronidase inhibition (49.20%), followed by the CU extract (33.20%) and the DW extract (20.80%). Regarding elastase and collagenase inhibition, the CU extract exhibited the highest elastase inhibition, while all extracts inhibited collagenase activity, with values exceeding 65%. Each extract had a distinct chemical profile determined by LC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS and spectrophotometric methods, with several shared compounds present in different proportions. CU extract is characterized by high concentrations of rutin, nicotiflorin, and azelaic acid, while FGS and DW extracts share major compounds such as quinic acid, fructosyl pyroglutamate, malic acid, and gluconic acid. Ames test and Caenorhabditis elegans assay demonstrated that at the concentrations at which the green tobacco extracts exhibit biological activities, they did not show toxicity. The results support the potential of N. tabacum extracts obtained with NaDESs as antiaging and suggest their promising applications in the cosmetic and cosmeceutical industries. Full article

Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to structural changes in the skin. Current anti-aging cosmetic trends emphasize innovative natural ingredients, including plant extracts, thermal waters, and botanical hydrolats. This work aims to develop six natural anti-aging cosmetics (two serums, two day creams, and two night creams) with innovative and non-irritating profiles. The rational design was guided by market analysis and ingredient properties. Prototype formulations were created with two core mixtures: (1) natural mineral water from Termas de Unhais da Serra and Thymus × citriodorus hydrolat and (2) natural mineral water from Termas de Chaves and aqueous Vaccinium myrtillus (blueberry) extract. The products were evaluated for stability (4 °C and 40 °C, 4 weeks), safety (according to EC Regulation No. 1223/2009), including in vitro testing for skin irritation potential (epiderm model; OECD TG 439). The market study highlighted a gap in anti-aging products combining natural extracts and thermal waters. All prototypes showed desirable textures and remained stable under test conditions. No irritating effects were observed. The results support the development of effective anti-aging cosmetics rooted in natural resources. These innovative products can meet the market demand for natural and sustainable skincare solutions. Full article

Retinoids are used in cosmetics as anti-aging ingredients, along with other substances. However, due to limitations in use (such as photodegradation), it seems necessary to look for retinoid alternatives to be applied in cosmetic products. Bakuchiol, a natural alternative of retinoids, isolated from Psolarea corylifolia, is one such compound. It has great cosmetic potential and its mechanism of action is not yet fully explored. From the point of view of the bioactive compound, it is also essential to develop a method for rapid quality control of cosmetic preparations containing bakuchiol. The aim of this study was to apply and compare methods for the quantification of bakuchiol in cosmetic products using UV-Vis, ¹H qNMR, and HPLC. The results show the possibility of using the ¹H NMR method in the routine quality control of cosmetics with bakuchiol because of its comparable results with HPLC analysis and significantly shorter analysis time. Full article

Characteristic manifestations of skin aging, due to either intrinsic or extrinsic factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation and oxidative stress, include cell senescence, alterations in collagen and elastin networks, and melanogenesis disorders. Natural products are considered a rich source of anti-aging molecules. Accordingly, the screening of a plant extract library from the Greek flora for a panel of biological activities related to skin aging is presented herein. In particular, 52 plant materials extracted using Accelerated Solvent Extraction (ASE) and Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE) were assessed for their effects on (1) human skin cell viability, (2) antioxidant activity—using both cell-free and cell-based methods—(3) photoprotective capacity, and (4) interference with collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase, as well as with proteasomal and lysosomal activities of human skin cells. In vivo phenotypic screens on Danio rerio (zebrafish) embryos were also used for assessing melanogenesis. Many active extracts were identified, some of them for the first time, and others in agreement with previous reports. In general, ASE extracts exhibited higher activities than SFE ones. Seven extracts showed multiple activities, being highly effective in at least four different assays. These data support the potential use of these extracts against skin aging in medicinal and cosmetic applications. Full article

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores a curated selection of medicinal plants widely used or emerging in dermocosmetics, highlighting their phytochemical composition, mechanisms of action, and experimental support. A narrative literature review was conducted using databases such as PubMed and Scopus, targeting studies on topical cosmetic applications. Results show that many officinal plants, including Camellia sinensis, Panax ginseng, and Mentha piperita, offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and anti-aging benefits. Less conventional species, such as Drosera ramentacea and Kigelia africana, demonstrated depigmenting and wound-healing potential. In particular, bioactive constituents like flavonoids, iridoids, saponins, and polyphenols act on key skin targets such as COX-2, MMPs, tyrosinase, and the Nrf2 pathway. These findings underscore the potential of botanical extracts to serve as effective, natural, and multifunctional agents in modern skincare. While only Mentha piperita is currently recognized as a traditional herbal medicinal product for dermatological use, this research supports the broader dermocosmetic integration of these species. Full article

Caffeic acid (CA) is a naturally occurring polyphenol antioxidant found in coffee, tea, fruits, and vegetables, known for its strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. However, its cosmetic application is limited because of poor dermal absorption due to its high polarity. This study aimed to evaluate the antioxidant and skin-brightening effects of a novel lipophilic CA derivative, CAD (caffeic acid-3,4-dihydroxyphenylpropanolester). CAD was synthesized by conjugating CA with 3,4-DHPEA, a lipophilic antioxidant derived from olive oil. In both DPPH and ABTS assays, CAD exhibited more potent antioxidant activity than CA. In B16F10 melanoma cells, CAD significantly inhibited melanin production without cytotoxicity at concentrations lower than those required for CA. Cellular assays using DCF-DA staining demonstrated that CAD effectively reduced intracellular ROS levels. Mechanistic studies revealed that CAD inhibited tyrosinase activity and downregulated the expression of TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Additionally, CAD suppressed MITF phosphorylation, along with reduced phosphorylation of ERK and JNK, elucidating its anti-melanogenic mechanism. Importantly, CAD showed dose-dependent skin-brightening effects in the 3D human skin model Melanoderm™, as evidenced by increased lightness and histological evaluation. In conclusion, CAD demonstrates strong potential as a safe and effective antioxidant and skin-brightening agent for cosmetic applications. Full article

The growing demand for sustainable and effective cosmetic ingredients has prompted renewed interest in winemaking by-products. Among these, grape stem (GS) extract remains relatively underexplored despite its rich content of phenolic compounds distinct from those found in more commonly studied grape seeds or skins. This study validates the potential of GS extract as a novel bioactive component in cosmetic cream formulations. Rich in antioxidant, antiaging, and depigmenting compounds—such as resveratrol, catechins, and phenolic acids—GS extract was incorporated into creams at concentrations ranging from 0.33% to 6.25%. The formulations were evaluated for physicochemical characteristics, texture, rheological behaviour, and biological activity. The results demonstrated that GS extract enhanced total phenolic and flavonoid content, as well as viscosity, firmness, and antioxidant capacity—although not always in a concentration-dependent manner. All formulations maintained appropriate pH values and microbiological stability. Accelerated stability tests (40 °C, 75% RH, 3 months) identified the 0.83% to 1.64% concentration range as the most stable, preserving phenolic content, viscosity, and bioactivity. Higher extract levels, in contrast, led to reduced formulation stability, coalescence, and diminished antioxidant performance over time. Notably, GS-enriched creams exhibited significant elastase and tyrosinase inhibition, with lower concentrations maintaining antiaging potential throughout storage. These findings not only demonstrate that the incorporation of GS extract into a cosmetic base preserves its biological functionality but also reinforce the unique value of grape stems as an untapped resource for cosmetic innovation. Overall, the study advances current knowledge by establishing formulation parameters for a stable, effective, and sustainable cream based on grape stem extract. Further studies are recommended to optimize extract concentration and investigate encapsulation strategies for enhanced bioactive delivery and long-term stability. Full article

Centella asiatica (CICA)-derived exosomes have emerged as bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation due to their regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a topical ampoule containing CICA-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) in healthy Korean adults. This human application study was conducted over a 15-day period, during which the test formulation was topically applied to the skin following a controlled regimen. A 24-h patch test with 30 participants confirmed non-irritation (irritation index: 0.00). In a separate two-week trial (n = 20; mean age 50.7 years), 3D imaging and ultrasound assessed five-dimensional pore improvement (area, density, volume, filling, texture), wrinkle depth reduction in five facial regions, dermal hydration at 0.5, 1.5, and 2.5 mm depths, and skin density. Significant reductions were observed in mean pore area (−17.9%) and pore density (−26.9%), with a 9.0% decrease in surface roughness. Wrinkle depths decreased by 7.8–18.8% across the forehead, glabella, crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, and neck. Hydration increased by 7.9% at 0.5 mm, and dermal density improved by 12.7% (p < 0.05). These findings highlight the excellent skin compatibility and multifaceted cosmetic benefits of the formulation containing CICA-derived exosomes and other active ingredients, underscoring its potential as a safe, effective, and innovative anti-aging cosmetic agent. Full article