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Pharmaceuticals
Special Issues
Natural Products for Skin Applications
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Natural Products for Skin Applications

A special issue of Pharmaceuticals (ISSN 1424-8247). This special issue belongs to the section "Natural Products".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 31 January 2026 | Viewed by 4527

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Octavia Gligor

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Guest Editor
Faculty of Medicine and Pharmacy, University of Oradea, 410073 Oradea, Romania
Interests: bioactive compounds; plant extracts; natural dermatocosmetic products; skincare; cutaneous applications
Dr. Ana-Maria Vlase

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Guest Editor
Department of Pharmaceutical Botany, Faculty of Pharmacy, Iuliu Hațieganu University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 8 Victor Babeș Street, 400012 Cluj-Napoca, Romania
Interests: modern extraction techniques; optimized/standardized extracts; phytochemical analysis; health outcomes of plant extracts; bioaccessability of compounds from various vegetal matrices; drug–vegetal extract interactions at metabolic level
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

In recent decades, the interest in natural products has grown significantly, particularly in the fields of dermatology and cosmetology. Medicinal plants and their extracted bioactive compounds are increasingly incorporated into skincare formulations due to their therapeutic potential, biocompatibility, and lower risk of adverse effects compared to synthetic alternatives.

Numerous plant-derived compounds—such as those from Matricaria recutita, Calendula officinalis, or Melaleuca alternifolia—have demonstrated antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and photoprotective properties, making them suitable for various dermatological applications. These include anti-acne and anti-aging treatments, care for sensitive skin, sun protection, and even adjunctive use in skin cancer therapies. Examples range from green tea and witch hazel in acne care to pomegranate extract and Coenzyme Q10 in anti-aging formulations and raspberry seed and carrot oils in natural sun protection.

However, challenges remain, such as the instability of certain natural compounds, risk of allergic reactions, and the need for standardization of extract purity and dosage. Addressing these limitations requires continued scientific validation, particularly through well-designed in vitro and in vivo studies.

This Special Issue invites original research articles and reviews focused on the characterization, biological activity, and dermatological application of natural bioactive compounds. Emphasis will be placed on mechanistic studies, innovative formulation strategies, and preclinical models supporting the safe and effective integration of natural compounds into modern dermatocosmetic products.

Dr. Octavia Gligor
Dr. Ana-Maria Vlase
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 250 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for assessment.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Pharmaceuticals is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2900 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • bioactive compounds
  • plant extracts
  • topic preparations
  • skincare
  • cutaneous applications
  • skin cancer
  • medicinal plants
  • modern extraction techniques
  • optimized/standardized extracts
  • phytochemical analysis
  • health outcomes of plant extracts
  • bioaccessability of compounds from various vegetal matrices
  • drug–vegetal extract interactions at metabolic level

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Published Papers (3 papers)

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Research

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14 pages, 777 KB  
Article
Rheological Characterization of Lemon Oil-Loaded Eucerin Cream and Aquaphor Ointment
by Shorouq Alzahrani and Jinsong Hao
Pharmaceuticals 2025, 18(12), 1838; https://doi.org/10.3390/ph18121838 - 2 Dec 2025
Viewed by 253
Abstract
Background/Objectives: Lemon oil has demonstrated its therapeutic effects in various dermatological diseases, and different dosage forms have been investigated to incorporate lemon oil. Using the existing ointment bases to prepare drug-loaded formulations is a common practice in formulation development. Eucerin and Aquaphor [...] Read more.
Background/Objectives: Lemon oil has demonstrated its therapeutic effects in various dermatological diseases, and different dosage forms have been investigated to incorporate lemon oil. Using the existing ointment bases to prepare drug-loaded formulations is a common practice in formulation development. Eucerin and Aquaphor are commonly used ointment bases in pharmacy for compounding preparations to meet patient needs. The maximum drug-loading capacity is an important consideration in order not to compromise desired properties of the ointment bases. The objective of this research was to determine the maximum lemon oil loading capacities by understanding the effects of loading lemon oil into Eucerin and Aquaphor on the rheological properties of the lemon oil-loaded formulations. Methods: Lemon oil was incorporated into Eucerin and Aquaphor at different concentrations. The rheological properties of the formulations were determined in flow and oscillation modes. Creep and recover tests were performed to determine the viscoelastic properties of the formulations. Results: The results showed that addition of lemon oil impacted rheological properties, including viscosity, elastic modulus, viscous modulus, compliance, and strain%, but the overall rheological behaviors remained consistent with the control for both bases. Conclusions: The maximum loading capacity of lemon oil could be determined from rheological testing. The rheological studies provided an important tool to determine the desired formulations for topical applications, without affecting the performance characteristics of the commercial products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products for Skin Applications)
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27 pages, 2069 KB  
Article
In Vitro and in Vivo Efficacy of Different Ointment Formulations Containing Centaurium erythraea Rafn. Aerial Extract
by Anett Jolán Karetka, Boglárka Papp, István Lekli, Ana-Maria Vlase, Annamária Pallag, Laura Grațiela Vicaș, Antonia-Maria Lestyán, Liza Józsa, Dóra Kósa, Ágota Pető, Zoltán Ujhelyi, Fruzsina Nacsa, Ildikó Bácskay, Pálma Fehér and Tünde Jurca
Pharmaceuticals 2025, 18(11), 1681; https://doi.org/10.3390/ph18111681 - 6 Nov 2025
Viewed by 735
Abstract
Background: Centaurium erythraea Rafn. (C. erythraea) is a medicinal plant traditionally used in European folk medicine for the treatment of wounds, skin inflammations, and other dermatological conditions, in addition to its well-documented systemic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. However, its [...] Read more.
Background: Centaurium erythraea Rafn. (C. erythraea) is a medicinal plant traditionally used in European folk medicine for the treatment of wounds, skin inflammations, and other dermatological conditions, in addition to its well-documented systemic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. However, its topical applications remain insufficiently investigated, particularly using plant material collected from Romania. The purpose of this study was to prepare different ointment formulations containing C. erythraea Rafn. extract obtained from the aerial parts of the plant, using various excipients, and to evaluate their in vitro and in vivo efficacy. Methods: The phytochemical profile of C. erythraea extract was characterized using liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (LC–MS/MS). The lyophilized extract was pre-dissolved in different solubilizing agents—Transcutol® P (diethylene glycol monoethyl ether), Capryol® 90 (propylene glycol monocaprylate), or a combination of both—and then incorporated into five ointment formulations. Texture analysis and an in vitro membrane diffusion study were performed. The antioxidant capacity of the formulations was assessed by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging, ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), and total phenolic content (TPC) assays. Anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated in vitro using tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α)-induced interleukin-1 beta (IL-1β) production in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells, and in vivo using a carrageenan-induced rat paw edema model. Results: LC–MS/MS identified 18 polyphenolic compounds, with hyperoside (3.78 ± 0.05 µg/mL), protocatechuic acid (1.13 ± 0.06 µg/mL), chlorogenic acid (1.07 ± 0.06 µg/mL), and quercetin (0.53 ± 0.03 µg/mL) as the principal constituents. The formulation containing both Transcutol® P and Capryol® 90 exhibited the most pronounced antioxidant activity (65% DPPH inhibition; 69.71 ± 0.83 mg gallic acid equivalent/mL) and significantly reduced IL-1β levels by 45.7% compared to the inflamed control. In vivo, this formulation showed comparable anti-edematous effects to a methylprednisolone ointment. Furthermore, it demonstrated the highest skin permeation efficiency, with a quercetin diffusion coefficient of 35.12 × 10−5 cm2/min. Conclusions: These findings highlight the therapeutic potential of C. erythraea extract from aerial parts in topical formulations and underscore the enhancing role of Transcutol® P and Capryol® 90 in improving both the pharmacodynamic and pharmacokinetic properties of bioactive compounds. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products for Skin Applications)
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Review

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23 pages, 2247 KB  
Review
Comparison of the Effectiveness Differences between Western and Chinese Medicinal Ointments against Eczema
by Siu Kan Law, Yanping Wang and Xiao Xiao Wu
Pharmaceuticals 2025, 18(9), 1248; https://doi.org/10.3390/ph18091248 - 22 Aug 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3085
Abstract
Eczema is the most common skin disease among Hong Kong’s adults and children, affecting an estimated 30% of the total population. Western and Chinese medicinal ointments are the usual treatment for eczema. Conventional Western medicinal ointments are topical corticosteroids and non-steroidal agents. Eczema [...] Read more.
Eczema is the most common skin disease among Hong Kong’s adults and children, affecting an estimated 30% of the total population. Western and Chinese medicinal ointments are the usual treatment for eczema. Conventional Western medicinal ointments are topical corticosteroids and non-steroidal agents. Eczema skin products include “Aveeno Parabens Lotion”, “Cerave Moisturizing Cream”, and “Cetaphil Lotion”. However, these are not a long-term solution for managing significant erythema. Chinese medicinal ointments are based on adjusting the formula, including the ingredients and amount, to address an individual’s skin condition and other factors that may be worsening symptoms. This approach aims to regulate the immune system and make it less reactive to environmental and food allergies. This approach is mainly for local topical use. The ingredients of eczema skin products should include Coptis chinensis Franch, Phellodendron chinense Schneid, Angelica sinensis (Oliv.) Diels, Rehmannia glutinosa Libosch, Curcuma longa L., and sesame oil. Chinese medicinal ointments are natural ingredients, personalized formulas, and concerned with holistic healing, while Western medicinal ointments provide fast-acting relief, targeted action, and a standardized dosage. Methods: Nine electronic databases, such as WanFang Data, PubMed, Science Direct, Scopus, Web of Science, Springer Link, SciFinder, and the China National Knowledge Infrastructure (CNKI), were searched mainly within the past twenty years and without any language restrictions. The inclusion criteria were the keywords “Western medicine and ointment”, “Chinese medicine and ointment”, and “Western and Chinese medicines and ointment”. Differences in effectiveness between Western and Chinese ointments were evaluated to determine if they had functions against eczema. This review included an analysis and summary of all relevant papers. Results: Western medicinal ointments are topical corticosteroids, and they exert their pharmacological activities via many mechanisms, including anti-inflammatory, immunosuppressive, antiproliferative, and vasoconstrictive effects on eczema. Similarly, Chinese medicinal ointments have the same pharmacological functions, but they may focus on the immune system for the treatment of inflammatory and skin conditions, including erythema, edema, dryness, desquamation, and callus exfoliation. Conclusion: Based on the clinical research, the effectiveness rate of integrated Chinese and Western medicines was 88%, which was greater than the 70% rate for using Western medicine alone to treat eczema. Western and Chinese medicinal ointments have different active ingredients with advantages and disadvantages for eczema or when acting as skin care products. The most important thing is knowing “How” to use Western and Chinese medicinal ointments properly, especially for some formulations of Chinese ointments. It may be beneficial to consider the pharmacokinetic studies of herbal ingredients, which offer personalized formulas tailored to individual body constitutions and conditions, as well as to emphasize holistic healing, addressing both symptoms and underlying imbalances in the body. Much more work needs to be carried out, such as safety assessments of these ointments for use as skin care products for eczema. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products for Skin Applications)
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