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Cosmetics
Special Issues
Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations
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Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 March 2024) | Viewed by 28003

Special Issue Editors

Dr. André R.T.S. Araujo

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Guest Editor
1. CPIRN-IPG, Center of Potential and Innovation of Natural Resources, Polytechnic Institute of Guarda, Av. Dr. Francisco de Sá Carneiro, No. 50, 6300-559 Guarda, Portugal
2. Department of Chemical Sciences, Laboratory of Applied Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, LAQV, REQUIMTE, Porto University, Rua de Jorge Viterbo Ferreira, 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
Interests: herbs-based cosmetics; nanocosmetics; semisolid formulations; analytical chemistry; pharmaceutical technology
Dr. Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos

E-Mail Website
Co-Guest Editor
1. Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Azinhaga Sta. Comba, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal
2. REQUIMTE/LAQV, Group of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Azinhaga Sta. Comba, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal
Interests: pharmaceutical technology; nanotechnology; new drug delivery systems; nanosystems; halloysite clay nanotubes; targeted therapies; multifunctional nanoplatforms; combined therapies, anticancer therapies; theranostics; cutaneous melanoma & pancreatic cancer; dermopharmacy and cosmetics; skin care; hair care and topical formulations
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Isabel Martins De Almeida

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Co-Guest Editor
UCIBIO/REQUIMTE, MedTech-Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira nº 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
Interests: antioxidants; natural products; sunscreens and anti-aging cosmetics; phototoxicity; photostability and photoprotection; mechanical and sensory characterization of topical formulations; patient centric design of topical products; health literacy in cosmetology
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Naturally-based cosmetic products are preferred by consumers who wish to adopt a more natural and healthy lifestyle. While natural ingredients offer many beneficial properties such as improved biodegradability, they pose some challenges for cosmetic formulation design regarding stability, performance and the supply chain. The COVID-19 pandemic has boosted the search for natural ingredients/raw materials as alternatives to avoid exposure to potentially “harmful” chemical ingredients, such as potential endocrine disruptors. This has enhanced the cosmetic industry's shift towards the development of natural and organic cosmetic products, which are expected to drive the growth of the worldwide cosmetic ingredients market.

This Special Issue aims to emphasize the use of natural ingredients/raw materials from all categories of ingredients (such as emulsifiers, emollients, permeation enhancers, preservatives, gelling agents and humectants) used in cosmetic formulations, highlighting not only their diverse potential bioactivities, according to their physicochemical characteristics, but also their behavior in technological terms, which gives them the possibility of having different and multifunctional applications in the development of cosmetic formulations. Innovative natural (mainly botanical and marine) sources of single ingredients and blends, as alternatives to conventional ingredients, are of interest to this Special Issue. In addition, works focusing on the technical  challenges and  safety of these ingredients, both for humans and the environment, as well as the contribution and/or impact that the natural ingredients may exhibit in relation to the environment, economy and/or sustainability will be considered.

Dr. André R.T.S. Araujo
Dr. Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos
Dr. Isabel Martins De Almeida
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • natural cosmetic ingredient
  • natural raw material
  • eco-friendly
  • safety
  • green cosmetics
  • natural cosmetic product
  • organic cosmetic product
  • botanicals
  • marine origin

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Published Papers (7 papers)

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Research

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13 pages, 1516 KiB  
Article
Development of an Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, and Photoprotective Phytocosmetic from Discarded Agave sisalana Perrine Roots
by Guilherme dos Santos Mazo, Julia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso, Luísa Taynara Silvério da Costa, Valdecir Farias Ximenes, Natália Alves Zoppe, Amanda Martins Viel, Lucas Pires Guarnier, Beatriz de Castro Silva, Luan Victor Coelho de Almeida and Lucinéia dos Santos
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 104; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030104 - 20 Jun 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1859
Abstract
The primary source of hard fiber globally is Agave sisalana Perrine, also known as sisal. In areas where sisal is grown, the roots of the plant are usually left in the field after it has stopped producing, which leads to soil degradation and [...] Read more.
The primary source of hard fiber globally is Agave sisalana Perrine, also known as sisal. In areas where sisal is grown, the roots of the plant are usually left in the field after it has stopped producing, which leads to soil degradation and decreased sisal productivity. It is, therefore, critical to find alternatives to reuse this waste. This study explores the potential use of sisal waste in the cosmetic industry by incorporating a hydroethanolic extract (HER) into a cream–gel formulation, taking advantage of the plant’s recognized ethnopharmacological value. The study involves analyzing the extract’s phytochemical composition (flavonoids) and evaluating its cytotoxicity. Subsequently, the antioxidant and antiglycation activities of the extract and cream–gel are evaluated, as well as ex vivo ocular toxicity, photoprotective activity, and preliminary stability analyses. The HER extract showed a flavonoid composition (catechin, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, and chrysin) and maintained cell viability above 70% throughout all time points analyzed in the MTT assay. Furthermore, the extract and the formulation demonstrated proven antioxidant and antiglycation activities. The cream–gel’s UVB and UVA protection effectiveness with the HER was comparable to that of synthetic UVB/UVA sunscreens, with the samples proving nonirritating and stable. In conclusion, the extract has a significant presence of flavonoids, and the cream–gel developed with it did not present cytotoxicity and met the stability requirements, indicating phytocosmetic potential with antioxidant, antiglycation, and photoprotective properties. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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8 pages, 826 KiB  
Communication
Deodorant Efficacy of Xylityl Sesquicaprylate Vehiculated into Roll-on and Stick Prototype Formulations
by Lilian Mussi, André Rolim Baby, Cecilia Nogueira, Flávio Bueno de Camargo Junior and Wagner Vidal Magalhães
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 88; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030088 - 31 May 2024
Viewed by 1596
Abstract
Given the burgeoning global market for deodorant products, it is paramount to develop novel, safe, and efficacious molecules that align with the cosmetic industry’s trend toward active compounds sourced from natural, sustainable, and renewable sources. In this context, we in vitro and in [...] Read more.
Given the burgeoning global market for deodorant products, it is paramount to develop novel, safe, and efficacious molecules that align with the cosmetic industry’s trend toward active compounds sourced from natural, sustainable, and renewable sources. In this context, we in vitro and in vivo investigated the deodorant potential of xylityl sesquicaprylate, a compound that, besides other functions, has antimicrobial activity. We performed the time–kill test to challenge the xylityl sesquicaprylate against Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, and Corynebacterium xerosis and in vivo trial efficacy was established through a sniff test using two deodorant prototype formulations containing xylityl sesquicaprylate at 0.35% (w/w). The xylityl sesquicaprylate at 0.35% (w/w) in glycerin presented in vitro deodorant activity through a bactericide/bacteriostatic profile against S. epidermidis, S. aureus, and C. xerosis. The in vivo efficacy trial performed by the sniffers through a single application of the roll-on and the stick prototype formulations added to the developed active compound deodorant’s effectiveness with a reduction in axillary bad odor, in comparison to the respective blank sample, for 2, 4, 8, and 12 h. When the deodorant efficacy was evaluated subjectively by the participants, there was always no difference between the stick sample and the blank; however, the roll-on deodorant was perceived as effective after 4 and 8 h of a single application of the sample, as established by the volunteers. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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19 pages, 2295 KiB  
Article
Development of a Ready-to-Use Oxyresveratrol-Enriched Extract from Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb. Using Greener Solvents and Deep Eutectic Solvents for a Whitening Agent
by Krittanon Saesue, Pornnapa Thanomrak, Wipawan Prompan, Warakhim Punan, Nantaka Khorana, Wasinee Juprasert, Tammanoon Rungsang, Pattravee Thong-on and Jukkarin Srivilai
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 58; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020058 - 5 Apr 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2561
Abstract
Oxyresveratrol (ORV) is naturally found in Artocapus lakoocha Roxb. (AL), similar to resveratrol. This AL extract has demonstrated considerable importance in dietary supplements and cosmetics for its anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant properties. There is a great demand for ORV in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical [...] Read more.
Oxyresveratrol (ORV) is naturally found in Artocapus lakoocha Roxb. (AL), similar to resveratrol. This AL extract has demonstrated considerable importance in dietary supplements and cosmetics for its anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant properties. There is a great demand for ORV in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Traditionally, harsh solvents have been used to extract ORV from AL. This study aims to address this issue by introducing green technology with a ready-to-use extract for the enrichment of ORV extraction from AL using deep eutectic solvents (DESs). Thirty-three DESs were synthesized and characterized. The extraction efficiency of these DESs was evaluated by ORV content (g ORV/kg dried plant) and compared with the conventional solvents, analyzed by validated HPLC. Notably, two synthesized DESs, namely choline chloride/citric acid/water (2:1:3) (DES10) and choline chloride/xylose (1:1) (DES17), showed higher ORV content than the conventional solvents and were therefore selected for optimization of extraction conditions using Box–Behnken designs, considering three variable levels: time, temperature, and water as co-solvents. Interestingly, the biological activities of ORV-enriched extracts from DES10 and DES17 were evaluated, and the results showed that they were 74-fold and 252-fold more potent than kojic acid in terms of tyrosinase inhibitory activity. DES17 was 17-fold more potent antioxidants than ascorbic acid. The morphology of AL powder before and after extraction with DESs under SEM suggested that DESs have the same mechanism as classical organic solvents. These ORV-enriched extracts can be directly incorporated into cosmetic formulations and production scales without the need to prepare a stock solution and are therefore referred to as ready-to-use extracts. This study successfully pioneered the use of DESs for environmentally friendly and highly efficient ORV extraction from AL to produce ready-to-use extracts and applications for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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22 pages, 1374 KiB  
Article
The Formulation of Dermato-Cosmetic Products Using Sanguisorba minor Scop. Extract with Powerful Antioxidant Capacities
by Alexandra-Cristina Tocai (Moţoc), Adriana Ramona Memete, Mariana Ganea, Laura Graţiela Vicaș, Octavia Dorina Gligor and Simona Ioana Vicas
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 8; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010008 - 11 Jan 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3953
Abstract
There has been a significant increase in the use of botanical resources for the formulation of topical products designed for medicinal and cosmetic applications. Sanguisorba minor Scop., a botanical species, exhibits a variety of properties and has significant potential for applications in the [...] Read more.
There has been a significant increase in the use of botanical resources for the formulation of topical products designed for medicinal and cosmetic applications. Sanguisorba minor Scop., a botanical species, exhibits a variety of properties and has significant potential for applications in the field of cosmetics. The aim of this study was to formulate topical preparations, incorporating an extract derived from the plant S. minor Scop. comprising a combination of roots, leaves, and flowers. In the initial phase, a total of seven combinations were prepared using extracts derived from the roots, leaves, and flowers of S. minor Scop. (v/v/v). These combinations were subsequently subjected to evaluation for their antioxidant capacity using four distinct methods: 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), cupric reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), and Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC). An extract of plant organs in a ratio of 1:2:1 (v/v/v), which had a strong antioxidant capacity and demonstrated synergistic effects according to the DPPH, TEAC, and CUPRAC assays (with values of 1.58 ± 0.1, 1.18 ± 0.09, and 1.07 ± 0.07, respectively), was selected for inclusion in three dermato-cosmetic products (hydrogel, emulgel, and cream). All the prepared preparations were evaluated in terms of topical formulation attributes and organoleptic characteristics. The testing of dermato-cosmetic products included assessments of their topical formulation properties and organoleptic characteristics. The hydrogel, emulgel, and cream exhibited varying degrees of stretchability. In addition, a study was carried out to assess the in vitro release of polyphenols from the cosmetic formulations using a Franz diffusion cell system. The results showed that the emulgel containing the extract of S. minor Scop. had the highest and most significant release of polyphenols, with a release rate of 84.39 ± 1.01%. This was followed by the hydrogel and cream, which had release percentages of 80.52 ± 0.89 and 75.88 ± 0.88, respectively, over an 8 h period. Thus, for the first time in the literature, a topical cosmetic product with high antioxidant potential containing S. minor Scop. extract was developed and optimized. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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Review

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14 pages, 1963 KiB  
Review
A Review of the Anti-Inflammatory Skincare Potential of Epilobium angustifolium (Fireweed) Inspired by Herbal Tradition
by Jaana Ailus, Imran Saleem and Fyaz M. D. Ismail
Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 156; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050156 - 9 Sep 2024
Viewed by 1635
Abstract
The demand for naturally derived cosmetic ingredients is rising as consumers increasingly prioritize green and environmentally friendly products. Naturally derived ingredients, such as plant extracts rich in polyphenols like flavonoids and tannins, are often perceived as more sustainable and beneficial for skincare. Epilobium [...] Read more.
The demand for naturally derived cosmetic ingredients is rising as consumers increasingly prioritize green and environmentally friendly products. Naturally derived ingredients, such as plant extracts rich in polyphenols like flavonoids and tannins, are often perceived as more sustainable and beneficial for skincare. Epilobium angustifolium (fireweed) is a circumpolar plant with traditional uses in Northern and Eastern Europe known for its skincare benefits. This review explores the chemical composition, traditional uses, and potential skincare benefits of E. angustifolium, focusing on its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Literature surveys, ethnopharmacological research, and database searches were conducted to investigate the properties of E. angustifolium. The plant contains various compounds such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, tannins, steroids, and triterpenes, each with potential skincare benefits. Pharmacological reports suggest that E. angustifolium exhibits antioxidant and antibacterial properties, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare products. The availability of E. angustifolium in the market as a raw material for cosmetics offers opportunities for formulators to create innovative products with skin-conditioning and anti-inflammatory properties. Understanding the chemical composition and bioactivity of E. angustifolium can guide the development of effective and sustainable skincare formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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18 pages, 722 KiB  
Review
Polyglutamate: Unleashing the Versatility of a Biopolymer for Cosmetic Industry Applications
by Mónica Serra, Eduardo Gudina, Cláudia Botelho, José António Teixeira and Ana Novo Barros
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030076 - 8 May 2024
Viewed by 3366
Abstract
Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency, [...] Read more.
Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency, and tailored molecular properties. Beyond its industrial applications, PGA exhibits unique properties that render it an attractive candidate for use in the cosmetic industry. The biocompatibility, water solubility, and film-forming characteristics of PGA make it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. This article explores the extensive potential cosmetic applications of PGA, highlighting its multifaceted role in skincare, haircare, and various beauty products. From moisturizing formulations to depigmentating agents and sunscreen products, PGA offers a wide array of benefits. Its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and hair makes it an ideal ingredient for moisturizers, conditioners, and hydrating masks. Moreover, PGA’s depigmentating properties contribute to the reduction in hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, enhancing the overall complexion. As the demand for sustainable and bio-derived cosmetic ingredients escalates, comprehending the microbial production and cosmetic benefits of PGA becomes crucial for driving innovation in the cosmetic sector. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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21 pages, 508 KiB  
Review
Cosmetic Formulations from Natural Sources: Safety Considerations and Legislative Frameworks in the European Union
by Maame Ekua Manful, Lubna Ahmed and Catherine Barry-Ryan
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 72; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030072 - 4 May 2024
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 11511
Abstract
Consumer preferences, safety, and sustainability aspects of conventional cosmetic ingredients have contributed to an increase in the demand for natural cosmetic ingredients and products. Naturally derived active cosmetic agents and excipients may come into contact with various naturally occurring and synthetic contaminants throughout [...] Read more.
Consumer preferences, safety, and sustainability aspects of conventional cosmetic ingredients have contributed to an increase in the demand for natural cosmetic ingredients and products. Naturally derived active cosmetic agents and excipients may come into contact with various naturally occurring and synthetic contaminants throughout the supply chain, and substantiating their safety is essential. This review examines the safety and legislative requirements applicable to natural cosmetic ingredients in the European Union (EU). Cosmetic safety requirements include technical data based on the ingredient profile, presence of hazards and the risks associated with the intended conditions of use. The hazard analysis includes screening for microbial contaminants such as aerobic mesophilic bacteria, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and Candida albicans; chemical contaminants such as lead, cadmium, arsenic, and mercury; and naturally occurring toxins, such as allergens. The toxicological assessment considers both local effects (such as skin sensitisation, eye/skin irritation, and photo-induced effects) and systemic effects (including acute dermal toxicity, sub-acute and sub-chronic toxicity, mutagenicity and carcinogenicity, reproductive toxicity, and toxicokinetics). The EU legislative requirements prohibit the use of animal-based tests for the toxicological evaluation of cosmetic ingredients, paving the way for alternatives termed as New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). The validation of NAMs is critical for their wider usage, and despite advancements, few have been validated, particularly for systemic toxicity testing. The use of NAMs in evaluating the safety of complex natural cosmetic ingredients is further examined. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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