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Development of Innovative Cosmetics—2nd Edition

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A special issue of Applied Sciences (ISSN 2076-3417). This special issue belongs to the section "Biomedical Engineering".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 20 May 2026 | Viewed by 4371

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Dr. Anna Waszkielewicz

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Department of Medicinal Chemistry and Biochemistry, Faculty of Medicine, Andrzej Frycz Modrzewski Krakow University, Gustawa Herlinga-Grudzińskiego 1, 30-705 Krakow, Poland
Interests: chemistry of cosmetics; organic chemistry; medicinal chemistry
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Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

This Special Issue, “Development of Innovative Cosmetics–2nd Edition” has played a crucial role in cosmetology. All papers regarding the efficacy and safety of new substances, the function of various ingredients in cosmetics, and the composition of substances in cosmetics are welcome. We want to address this Special Issue to those who want to stay up-to-date with cosmetics development processes.

Our last Special Issue, “Development of Innovative Cosmetics”, was a success, and we hope to facilitate the dissemination of your research with this new forum of academic publishing.

Dr. Anna Waszkielewicz
Guest Editor

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Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 250 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for assessment.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Applied Sciences is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

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Keywords

artificial skin
synthesis
cosmetics ingredients

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Published Papers (6 papers)

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Research

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15 pages, 2720 KB

Open AccessArticle

Upcycling Winery Waste into Functional Cosmetic Ingredient: Green Recovery of Squalene from Wine Lees as a Potential In Vitro Permeation Enhancer

by Ela Hoti, Lucrezia Di Nicolantonio, Marco Zannotti, Rita Giovannetti, Stefano Ferraro, Piera Di Martino and Maria Rosa Gigliobianco

Appl. Sci. 2026, 16(8), 3893; https://doi.org/10.3390/app16083893 - 17 Apr 2026

Viewed by 214

Abstract

Squalene and squalane are widely used cosmetic ingredients valued for their emollient properties and excellent skin compatibility, yet sustainable sourcing remains a challenge. This study presents an integrated and eco-friendly strategy for valorizing wine lees as a renewable source of squalene and converting it into stable, high-performance squalane. Squalene was efficiently recovered from yeast-rich winery waste through optimized ultrasound-assisted extraction, followed by chromatographic purification. Green catalytic hydrogenation using palladium supported on natural clay minerals enabled the selective conversion of squalene into squalane under mild conditions. The functional evaluation via in vitro transport studies across an artificial membrane, using quercetin as a poorly permeable model antioxidant, demonstrated enhanced permeation compared with conventional vehicles, while accelerated aging experiments further confirmed the superior oxidative stability of squalane relative to native squalene. Overall, this work provides a proof of concept for upcycling winery by-products into multifunctional cosmetic ingredients that combine sustainability, stability, and functional performance, supporting circular economy principles and the growing demand for ethically sourced raw materials in the cosmetic industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics—2nd Edition)

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21 pages, 2133 KB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of FT Waxes Synthesized from Natural Gas for Cosmetic Applications: Safety, Sensory Properties, and Lipid Packing Characteristics

by Xue Li Lim, Yerin Yun and Seol-Hoon Lee

Appl. Sci. 2026, 16(8), 3720; https://doi.org/10.3390/app16083720 - 10 Apr 2026

Viewed by 224

Abstract

This study investigates the potential of Fischer–Tropsch (FT) waxes, synthesized from natural gas, as high-performance and sustainable alternatives to conventional ester waxes in cosmetic applications. To evaluate their technical viability, a series of FT waxes with varying hydrocarbon chain lengths were synthesized and characterized. Safety was rigorously assessed through human patch tests and irritation surveys, while sensory attributes, including gloss and transparency, were compared against beeswax and carnauba wax. Furthermore, the impact on the skin barrier was analyzed using Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier Transform Infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy to determine lipid packing characteristics. The results demonstrated that FT waxes possess an excellent safety profile with irritation levels comparable to traditional waxes. Sensory evaluations revealed that adjusting the hydrocarbon chain length allows for precise control over melting points and texture, offering significant formulation flexibility. Crucially, lipid packing analysis indicated that FT waxes promote an orthorhombic organization, effectively mimicking and reinforcing the native crystalline structure of the human skin barrier. These findings conclude that FT waxes provide both superior sensory properties and functional skin-barrier benefits, positioning them as versatile and innovative ingredients for advanced dermo-cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics—2nd Edition)

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26 pages, 2897 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Physicochemical Characterization of Oil-in-Water Cosmetic Creams Containing Vaccinium vitis-idaea (Lingonberry) Fruit Extract

by Daniela Gitea, Manuela Bianca Pasca, Laura Maria Endres, Simona Ioana Vicas, Mirela Marioara Toma, Manuel Alexandru Gitea and Mirela-Liliana Moldovan

Appl. Sci. 2026, 16(5), 2607; https://doi.org/10.3390/app16052607 - 9 Mar 2026

Viewed by 392

Abstract

The purpose of this investigation was to develop and physicochemically characterize two natural O/W cosmetic cream prototypes (LC1, LC2) containing 5% (w/w) of a Vaccinium vitis-idaea (lingonberry) fruit extract (LE) together with their corresponding blank formulations (LC1-BL, LC2-BL). The extract was obtained by hydroalcoholic maceration followed by solvent removal and was characterized for total phenolic, flavonoid, and monomeric anthocyanin content. Its antioxidant capacity was evaluated using DPPH, FRAP, CUPRAC, and ABTS assays. The phenolic profile was further explored by HPLC–DAD–ESI(+), enabling tentative identification of phenolic subclasses previously reported in the literature to be associated with antioxidant properties. The prepared creams were evaluated for qualitative organoleptic properties, pH, texture (hardness, adhesiveness, and spreadability), viscosity, and accelerated conditions of stability. All formulations were stable, and no phase separation occurred; however, the addition of the extract modified their color and odor and decreased the pH to values within the physiological skin pH range. An in-silico safety evaluation of the constituents (MoS and TTC) found a good toxicological profile at concentrations employed. Overall, the results support the feasibility of incorporating lingonberry fruit extract into O/W cosmetic cream systems and demonstrate that appropriate formulation design allows the development of stable products with defined physicochemical and mechanical characteristics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics—2nd Edition)

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19 pages, 789 KB

Open AccessArticle

Overview of the Composition of Cosmetic Preparations for Intimate Hygiene

by Urszula Kalinowska-Lis and Paulina Mucha

Appl. Sci. 2026, 16(5), 2293; https://doi.org/10.3390/app16052293 - 27 Feb 2026

Viewed by 1031

Abstract

A number of products for maintaining intimate hygiene are available on the market. They consist of a blend of components intended to cleanse, care for and protect the area of application, and support its microbiological balance. The present study reviews the compositions of international intimate hygiene product brands currently available in Poland (within the European Union) and the frequency of their components: their surfactants, plant extracts, prebiotics, postbiotics and skin care agents. The most popular surfactants in rinse-off products for women were Cocamidopropyl Betaine, present in 72% of products, followed by Coco-Glucoside (58%) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (24%). Similarly, in the products for girls, the most common were Cocamidopropyl Betaine (55%), Lauryl Glucoside (45%), Coco-Glucoside (40%) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (20%). The intimate wipes contained mainly nonionic surfactants: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (28%), Coco-Glucoside and Polysorbate 20 (20% each). Many components with protective and caring properties were identified: plant extracts (e.g., Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract), prebiotics (Inulin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide) and postbiotics (Lactobacillus Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate), as well as Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Citric Acid, Panthenol and Allantoin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics—2nd Edition)

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Review

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22 pages, 328 KB

Open AccessReview

Thermal Spring Waters as Cosmeceuticals: An Update

by M. Lourdes Mourelle and André R. T. S. Araujo

Appl. Sci. 2026, 16(6), 2753; https://doi.org/10.3390/app16062753 - 13 Mar 2026

Viewed by 490

Abstract

Thermal spring waters (TSWs) have long been used in dermatology for chronic inflammatory dermatoses and sensitive skin and are increasingly positioned as cosmeceutical active ingredients. This review summarizes studies on the use of TSW and their hydrobiome derivatives in dermocosmetics and cosmeceuticals for skin health. TSW exhibits anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, soothing, hydrating and barrier-restoring effects in vitro, ex vivo and in clinical studies, improving conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, sensitive skin, radiation dermatitis and post-procedure erythema. In parallel, the hydrobiome of TSW has enabled the development of postbiotic and paraprobiotic ingredients, which modulate skin immunity, microbiota, barrier function and clinical signs of inflammatory and sensitive skin. Despite robust preclinical and growing clinical evidence, cosmeceuticals remain regulated as cosmetics in most regions, highlighting the need for specific regulatory frameworks and standardized approaches to demonstrate the safety and efficacy of TSW-based cosmeceuticals, as well as defining acceptable claim categories and minimum evidence thresholds. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics—2nd Edition)

18 pages, 667 KB

Open AccessReview

Innovative Skin Depigmenting Strategies: A Review

by Rita Carneiro, Carla M. Lopes and Maria Helena Amaral

Appl. Sci. 2026, 16(4), 1735; https://doi.org/10.3390/app16041735 - 10 Feb 2026

Viewed by 1578

Abstract

Skin pigmentation results from the melanin production by melanocytes, an essential process for protection against ultraviolet radiation and for maintaining cutaneous homeostasis. Disruptions in this balance lead to pigmentary disorders, such as hyperpigmentation, which is characterized by localized or diffuse darkening of the skin. Its most prevalent forms include melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and solar lentigines, often driven by hormonal, inflammatory, and environmental factors, particularly sun exposure. Despite being clinically benign, these conditions have a significant impact on self-esteem and quality of life. Conventional treatments rely on depigmenting agents such as hydroquinone, retinoids, and corticosteroids, as well as chemical peels, and laser or light-based therapies, frequently used in combination. However, limited efficacy, prolonged treatment durations, and potential adverse effects underscore the need for safer and more effective alternatives. In recent years, research has focused on developing novel approaches, with nanotechnology-based delivery systems and minimally invasive techniques, such as microneedling, standing out as particularly promising fields. In parallel, the growing number of interventional clinical trials reflects an increasing interest in optimizing topical depigmenting strategies. This review summarizes the main types of hyperpigmentation, the depigmenting substances currently used, and emerging therapeutic approaches with potential clinical impact. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics—2nd Edition)

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