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Article

Conceptual Design of the Process for Making Cosmetic Emulsion Using Amazonian Oils

by
Estela Guardado Yordi
1,*,
Irma Sofia Guambuguete Guaman
2,
Mayra Elizabeth Freire Fuentes
2,
Matteo Radice
1,
Laura Scalvenzi
1,
Reinier Abreu-Naranjo
3,
Luis Ramón Bravo Sánchez
1 and
Amaury Pérez Martínez
1
1
Facultad de Ciencias de la Tierra, Universidad Estatal Amazónica, Pastaza 160150, Ecuador
2
Carrera de Agroindustria, Facultad de Ciencias de la Tierra, Universidad Estatal Amazónica, Pastaza 160150, Ecuador
3
Facultad de Ciencias de la Vida, Universidad Estatal Amazónica, Pastaza 160150, Ecuador
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Processes 2025, 13(6), 1770; https://doi.org/10.3390/pr13061770
Submission received: 14 February 2025 / Revised: 29 March 2025 / Accepted: 1 April 2025 / Published: 4 June 2025
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 2nd Edition of Innovation in Chemical Plant Design)
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Abstract

:
In recent years, there has been a growing interest in natural and sustainable cosmetic ingredients, particularly those derived from Amazonian plant oils. The present research focuses on the creation of a prototype cosmetic emulsion from two Amazonian oils, morete oil (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.) and ungurahua oil (Oenocarpus bataua Mart). The aim of the study was to develop a conceptual design of the process for making cosmetic emulsion using Amazonian oils. The methodology consisted of observational data collection, definition of unit operations and equipment, and process simulation. The design was simulated using SuperPro Designer V10.0. Experimental data, unit operations, equipment, and operation time confirmed the feasibility of a conceptual process design for scaling up. In the conceptual design, an operation time of 4.25 h was estimated, which would allow the production of two or more batches per day, depending on the demand, and the initial investment was expected to be recovered within 6.24 years. This study highlights the potential application of Amazonian oils in the cosmetic industry, promoting financially viable, natural, and ecologic products. Future research should analyze extraction yields, alternative strategies for efficient scale-up, and the long-term stability of emulsions under different storage conditions.

1. Introduction

The cosmetics industry is a dynamic and constantly evolving sector, with global prominence in key markets such as the European Union, the United States, China, Brazil, and Japan [1]. Today, the industry continues to develop and produce innovative and successful products. Consumers can therefore select cosmetic creams on the basis of performance and efficacy [2].
In Ecuador, the consumption of cosmetics for personal care is of great significance, representing 1.6% of the Gross Domestic Product (GDP) and experiencing an annual growth of 10% [3]. Based on recent research, Gordillo López et al. [4] mentioned that the country consumes approximately 51.5 million beauty products per year, equivalent to an average of 3.09 units per person.
In the cosmetic industry, Amazonian vegetable oils have gained relevance due to their emollient, nourishing, and antioxidant properties, which make them key ingredients in the formulation of skin and hair care products [5]. A representative example is ungurahua oil (Oenocarpus bataua), extracted from the fruits of a palm tree native to the Amazon. This oil is highly valued for its richness in essential fatty acids, tocopherols, and phytosterols, fundamental components in cellular metabolism that favor hydration, protection, and hair and skin repair. Traditionally, the Amazonian Shuar and Achuar peoples have used this oil in hair treatments to strengthen hair, add shine, and prevent hair loss. This knowledge has aroused the interest of the cosmetic industry in terms of incorporating innovative and sustainable formulations [6].
Emulsions play a crucial role in the formulation of cosmetic products, as they enhance product stability, improve the delivery of active ingredients, and provide desirable sensory properties. They are fundamental in creams, lotions, and other skincare formulations due to their ability to hydrate and protect the skin. From a technical perspective, a cosmetic emulsion may be defined as a semi-solid system composed of two distinct phases: an aqueous phase and an oil phase, which are kept stable by the addition of an emulsifying agent [7]. As emulsions are thermodynamically unstable, energy is required for their formation [8]. Their basic composition is enriched by the presence of active ingredients, preservatives, fragrances, and flavorings, among other components [9].
However, cosmetic emulsions are classified into several groups, the most representative of which are water-in-oil (W/O), where the water is dispersed in a continuous oil phase, and oil-in-water (O/W), the most commonly used formulation in which the continuous phase is aqueous and the oil is dispersed into it [10]. These emulsions have the function of softening the skin and making it supple [11]. In addition, the most important properties include viscosity, color, stability, ease of dilution, and formation [12].
Increasing market interest in formulated products (emulsions) has driven the advancement of innovative approaches to their design. Today, products are scaled up using trial-and-error methods based on modeling [13]. According to Ruiz and Álvarez [14], this process is traditionally performed according to dimensional analysis, geometric similarity, and empirical relationships from a data set. Scaling up from the laboratory to the industrial environment is therefore a critical and decisive step during process design [15]. Broadly speaking, Newtonian fluids are simpler to scale up [16]. In contrast, non-Newtonian or, in this case, emulsions are more complex due to changes in their properties, such as viscosity and flow conditions [17]. In general, the process of scaling up involves obtaining data at different levels; on a laboratory scale, it allows us to take data to design another plant of a different size. It is therefore crucial that a product made in small quantities must present the same properties and characteristics as one produced in larger series [18].
A study by Türedi and Acaralı [19] argues that scaling up an emulsion technology depends on the correct choice of stirrer speed, mixing time, and process temperature. Meanwhile, research by Burakova et al. [18] suggests that to scale up, it is necessary to consider the risks that can lead to the production of heterogeneous and unstable creams. The latter authors developed a technology to produce emulsions based on dry extracts of bergenia or “elephant’s ear” (Bergenia crassifolia) under laboratory conditions. In this regard, they used three pilot series for production, considering possible risks such as mixer speed, mixing time, temperature, etc., where they obtained a stable cosmetic product. Likewise, Campos Prada [20] proposed the scaling up of the mixing process of concentrated O/W emulsions in order to study their dynamics under controlled hydrodynamic conditions. Restrepo Jimenez [21] also demonstrated that it is possible to scale up emulsification processes, supporting the feasibility of scaling up cosmetic emulsions through multiscale design and controlled operating parameters. Moreover, May-Masnou et al. [17] maintain that the quality and final properties of emulsions are linked to various process factors. Even small changes in the agitation speed, the way in which the components are added, or the size of the container can cause variations in the product in addition to the loss of raw material, time, and economic resources. Therefore, it is essential to perform a scaling analysis of these procedures and to study the impact of the variables to predict their behaviors and optimization at the industrial level. These analyses would save resources and time in inefficient trials.
Although several attempts have been made to carry out pilot laboratory scale-ups of certain technological processes for emulsions, they are not sufficient due to the lack of information on experimental data in their designs. For this reason, the aim of the study was to develop a conceptual design of the process for making a cosmetic emulsion using Amazonian oils.

2. Materials and Methods

2.1. Study Design

This study developed a conceptual design based on a case study to analyze the extraction of vegetable oils from morete (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.) and ungurahua (Oenocarpus bataua Mart) fruits obtained in the Local Market, Puyo Ecuador, and their application in the production of a cosmetic emulsion. The information used came from the observation and analysis of experiments carried out by other researchers that have not yet been published. The study was divided into three phases (Figure 1):
  • Phase 1: Information retrieval and observational data collection. This focused on collecting data on vegetable oil extraction and the formulation of cosmetic emulsions through observation, measurement, recording, and analysis.
  • Phase 2: Identification and definition of unit operations and processes. This involved identifying, categorizing, and selecting appropriate unit operations for oil extraction and emulsion production based on industry standards and observed procedures.
  • Phase 3: Process simulation and diagram construction. This was designed to integrate process data into simulation models and visual representations, ensuring a structured and scalable workflow.
This study was conducted based on the observation of an ongoing, unpublished experimental process focused on data documentation rather than the direct execution of experiments. Observations were systematically recorded to register processing data, operational parameters, and material flows. Findings were contrasted by reviewing the literature on vegetable oil extraction and cosmetic formulation.

2.1.1. Phase 1: Information Retrieval and Observational Data Collection

The first phase of the study involved the systematic observation and analysis of unpublished laboratory experiments on oil extraction and emulsion formulation, which were previously conducted by other researchers. These observations served as the basis for the development of the conceptual design and the scaling up of the process to the artisanal level.
From the observation and recording of these experimental data, operational parameters were identified. The observed procedures were then transformed into a process design that is adaptable to a larger scale. The objective was to collect data for the development of a conceptual process design. The parameters recorded included the following:
  • Processing conditions: temperature, time, and sequence of the operations.
  • Composition of raw materials: type and quantity of ingredients used in oil extraction and emulsion formulation; these data were subsequently entered into the simulation software.
  • Unit operations: identification of essential steps in the vegetable oil extraction and formulation process.
  • Material flows: documentation of inputs and outputs at each stage of the process.

2.1.2. Phase 2: Identification and Definition of Unit Operations and Processes

In the second phase, the conceptual design of the technological process (extraction of vegetable oils and production of cosmetic emulsions) began by selecting the extraction method, identifying its unitary operations, and deciding upon the equipment.
First, the extraction method was selected based on laboratory and bibliographic information. This enabled the proposal and analysis of technological alternatives for the extraction method based on the nature of the raw material, its compatibility with traditional practices, and the purity and stability of the final product.
Next, the data collected in Phase 1 were analyzed and converted into unit operations. To achieve this, it was necessary to adopt the heuristic method based on reasoning, which is based on the application of practical rules and previous experiences for the efficient resolution of design problems, as stated by López-Arévalo et al. [22]. Within this approach, the equipment and operating conditions were also chosen.
As part of the methodological approach adopted in this study, heuristic rules geared toward the conceptual design of the process were established. These rules were formulated based on technical criteria and previous experience in the analysis of similar processes and served as a guide for the selection of unit operations and equipment. The heuristic rules proposed were as follows:
  • The process scalability rule: If a unit operation is feasible on a small scale but involves critical conditions (such as temperature, pressure, or residence time), then its scalability should be evaluated with phenomenological models before its industrial implementation.
  • The material and equipment compatibility rule: The construction material of the equipment must be compatible with the chemical and physical properties of the processed product in order to avoid product and equipment degradation.
  • The energy consumption minimization rule: Whenever possible, production methods should be selected that minimize energy consumption without compromising product quality.
Since the technological process was conceived as a discontinuous production, its design was structured by considering the availability of raw materials in the Amazon and the synchronization of batch operations, as proposed in Guardado Yordi et al. [5].

2.1.3. Phase 3: Process Simulation and Diagram Construction

The data obtained in the initial phases of the study were used to define the parameters required for the simulation of the cosmetic cream production process. For this purpose, an artisanal scale was used in order to adapt the design to the production conditions of the Amazon region. The simulation integrated the information of the oil extraction process with the unitary operations and equipment necessary for the emulsion formulation.
This phase focused on process scale-up under a process modeling and simulation approach, as proposed by Yazdanpanah [23]. The block diagram for the transformation of raw materials into the final product was created, as well as the Gantt chart, both of which allowed the conformation of the process flow diagram and the simulation.

Analysis and Economic Feasibility

SuperPro Designer V10.0 (Intelligen, Freehold, NJ, USA) software was used to simulate the process. In addition, an analysis of its technical and economic feasibility was carried out according to the proposal of Pérez-Martínez et al. [24]. The input data for the simulation included experimental values obtained from the literature and data based on the results observed in Phase 1. The economic dynamic indicators calculated were as follows: net present value (NPV), internal rate of return (IRR), return on investment (ROI), payback period, and gross margin. The economic evaluation horizon was set at 10 years, with a discount rate of 7%, which took into account raw material and operating costs [5].

3. Results

3.1. Phase 1: Information Retrieval and Observational Data Collection

3.1.1. Extraction of Vegetable Oil from Morete (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.) and Ungurahua (Oenocarpus bataua Mart)

The following are the results of the information gathered by the authors by observing the experimental procedure of other investigators at a laboratory scale for both fruits:
(a)
The morete fruits were selected and separated from those showing any damage. Subsequently, 35 kg of fruit was weighed, cleaned, and washed with 12.5 L of water to remove any impurities, such as soil. Then, the fruits were softened with 20 L of water at a temperature of 60 °C for two hours to facilitate the removal of the seed. The rind and pulp of the seed were then separated from the fruit by hand. As a result of this procedure, 8 kg of pulp and 27 kg of residue were obtained. The pulp was subjected to a drying process for a period of 24 h at a temperature of 60 °C, resulting in 3000 g of dry pulp. The oil was then extracted using the decoction method. At this stage, the pulp was boiled to extract the oil contained in it, obtaining 325 mL or 280.82 g of the product. The percentage yield at this stage was 9.36%, which is the proportion of oil in relation to the weight of the dehydrated pulp obtained after the drying process.
(b)
The ungurahua fruits were selected and separated from those showing any damage. 3498.30 g of fruit was received and washed to remove molds and impurities. The fruits were then softened by boiling them in 6996.6 mL of water. After boiling, the fruits were left for a period of two hours to allow softening and pulp extraction. The husk and pulp were then ground. After obtaining 1097.53 g of ground pulp, the decoction process was carried out to extract the oil. This procedure resulted in obtaining a total of 19 mL of oil, equivalent to 17.16 g with a yield of 0.6%.

3.1.2. Emulsion Production

Below is a description of the information gathered by observing the experimental procedure at a laboratory scale to obtain the cosmetic emulsion:
(a)
Table 1 shows the formulation used to make 1 kg of cosmetic cream as well as the ingredients and quantities used.
(b)
After obtaining the raw material in optimal conditions, the ingredients to produce 1 kg of the final product were weighed in order to create the cream. This process was divided into two parts: an aqueous phase, consisting of 645 g of purified sterile water, and an oil phase, containing 3 g of Montanov 202, 10 g of Montanov 68 (emulsifiers), 155 g of cocoa butter, 44 g of morete oil, 102 g of ungurahua oil, and 10 g of preservatives. Previously, the mixtures were subjected to a water bath at a temperature of 75 °C for 20 min to achieve liquid homogeneity across all ingredients (Figure 2). Once the desired temperature was reached and the ingredients were ready, they were transferred to the homogenizer/emulsifier at 7000 rpm for 40 min, where the water was added slowly to the oil phase to achieve a uniform fluid.

3.2. Phase 2: Identification and Definition of Unit Operations and Processes

Four methods of extraction of morete (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.) and ungurahua (Oenocarpus bataua Mart) oils were compared by evaluating their unit operations and the equipment required. The methods analyzed in the conceptual design were decoction, solvent extraction, cold pressing, and hot pressing. Each of them was different in terms of raw material preparation, oil yield, and operating conditions. However, when analyzing the technological feasibility, cold pressing was selected. Table 2 presents a summary of the unit operations involved in each method, together with the equipment used for each alternative evaluated.
As for the production of the cosmetic emulsion, the unit operations shown in Table 3 were used. The turbo emulsifier was the most suitable piece of equipment since all operations can be carried out in it and it helps to guarantee the stability of the final product.

3.3. Phase 3: Process Simulation and Diagram Construction

The block diagram (Figure 3A) represents the interconnection of the main operations of the process, identifying the stages from the input of raw materials to obtaining the final product. The simulation results indicated that the process requires the sequence of operation units for oil extraction and emulsification, ensuring a continuous flow of the oil extraction and subsequent obtaining of the cosmetic emulsion.
The simulation showed that the total processing time for the production of one batch of cosmetic cream at the artisanal level is 4.25 h (Figure 3B). Given that the Gantt chart organizes the sequence of operations represented in the block diagram, it facilitated the planning and coordination of the technological process. In the Gantt chart (Figure 3B), the progress of the activities and the logical sequence for carrying out both phases are graphically summarized, given their interdependence. For this, the aqueous phase was prepared and then the lipid phase since it is a W/O emulsion. Each activity is listed vertically, with its start time and duration indicated by a horizontal line along a time scale [25].
Figure 4 shows the process flow diagram, where the distribution of the equipment and the sequence of the transformation of the raw materials into the cosmetic emulsion can be observed. The simulation made it possible to evaluate the operating efficiency of the industrial scale-up, showing that the technological configuration used in the laboratory can be adapted to larger-scale production without altering the operating conditions for extracting the vegetable oils and obtaining the emulsion.
As a result of observing other investigators carry out experiments, it was evident that the technological process for the extraction of vegetable oils from morete and ungurahua uses various technologies. First, the raw materials were selected and meticulously washed. The fruit was then softened at a temperature of 100 °C for one hour to facilitate pulping, which separates the pulp from the fruit and separates the seed and peel as residues. The resulting pulp was crushed to facilitate subsequent pressing. Once the oil was obtained, filtration was carried out to obtain a final product free of impurities and residues that can be used to produce cosmetic cream.
The production of the cosmetic cream began with the simultaneous incorporation of the two phases, oil and aqueous. The first phase involved heating a combination of cocoa butter, emulsifiers (Montanov 68, 202), oils, and preservatives (Sharomix), while the second phase comprised only water. This procedure was carried out at a temperature of 70–80 °C for a period of 40 min.
Then, both phases were mixed at the end of the heating process, and by constant stirring at 7000 rpm, the aqueous phase was incorporated into the oil phase. Finally, once the desired emulsion was achieved, it was cooled to room temperature.
The above-mentioned procedures coincide with the Gantt Chart (Figure 3B) for the extraction of morete and ungurahua oils. Once obtained, both oils passed simultaneously to the heating phase of the aqueous and oil phases in separate equipment, both starting at the same temperature (75 °C) and time. At the end of this process, the aqueous phase was combined with the oil phase to homogenize and form the desired emulsion. The total duration of the process to produce cosmetic cream was 4.25 h.
In the process flow diagram (Figure 4), one can see the technology consisting of two turbo emulsifiers with a capacity of 10 kg. The first one is used to prepare the aqueous phase, and the second one is used for the oil phase to obtain the emulsion. This process followed detailed operations (Figure 3) to obtain the cosmetic cream.
In the same way, Figure 5 depicts the process flow diagram for obtaining morete oil and ungurahua oil. The process began with the input of fruits into the pulper to separate the seeds and peels from the fruit. Subsequently, the fruits were cooked to soften them and obtain the condensate as a residue. Once the fruits had a smooth texture, they were crushed and subjected to cold pressing to extract the oil, and as a residue the morete cake and ungurahua cake. The oil obtained was filtered to eliminate the particles present, resulting in the final product, i.e., vegetable oils.

3.3.1. Mass and Energy Balance, Consumption vs. Availability of Raw Materials, and Environmental Compatibility of Technology

Table 4 presents a comprehensive analysis of the consumption of environmental indicators linked to the annual production of 4717.48 kg of cosmetic cream. This analysis provides a detailed overview of the consumption of raw materials, water, and energy, as well as the amount of waste generated from the initial waste and the residual cake resulting from the morete and ungurahua pressing process. The data presented provides a clear and accurate picture of the environmental footprint associated with the production of cosmetic cream, allowing for a comprehensive technical assessment of its environmental impact.

3.3.2. Equipment Sizing and Procurement Cost

For the sizing and acquisition cost of the equipment, it is essential to establish the entire manufacturing process of the technologies. Table 5 shows the equipment involved in the processes of obtaining vegetable oils and cosmetic cream, the design parameter that characterizes each one of them, and the quantity and acquisition cost of each one of them, the latter being USD 126,000.00.

3.3.3. Analysis and Economic Feasibility

The investment cost (Figure 5A) for 260 batches is USD 1,016,000.00, while the production cost is lower at USD 44,100.00 per year. The NPV determines the different costs and benefits of technological investment, which, to produce the cosmetic cream, was positive for the number of batches at USD 216,000.00. This value indicates that it is possible to recover the investment. The profit margin and return on investment show positive values of 20.22% and 16.04%, respectively. The venture is also economically feasible, which leads to an increase in profitability (Figure 5B). Indeed, the IRR is positive, implying higher profitability. The only drawback is the long payback time, which stands at 6.24 years. Therefore, the operation appears to be profitable and able to generate profits that exceed the initial capital.

4. Discussion

The extraction yield of morete using the decoction method was 9.36% relative to the dehydrated pulp. Rivera et al. [26] suggested that the most efficient method for morete oil extraction is by using the pulp under cold pressing, with a pre-treatment at 85 °C for a period of 10 min, generating a yield of 56.77%. In contrast, Rivera Chasiquiza [27] reported the oil content in morete pulp by machine pressing to be 59.42% when heat treatment was applied and the rindless fruit was used at 85 °C for 10 min. Paredes Amasifuen [28] found that by applying heat treatment prior to oil extraction, a high fat percentage of more than 19.0% was achieved. This process involves heating, crushing, extraction with a manual press, and separation by decantation and filtration. Furthermore, another study by Adrianzén et al. [29] commented that the amount of oil extracted is directly related to the heating temperature of the pulp. They also showed that this percentage decreases when using the pulp with peel during pre-treatment prior to pressing.
Applying the decoction method to dried ungurahua pulp produced a yield of 0.6%. This figure is significantly below the results reported by various other authors who used different techniques during pulp softening and extraction methods, which could contribute to their higher yields. The procedures used to obtain oil from ungurahua are similar to those reported by other authors [30,31], who agree on the seed softening time, set at 2 h. Peña et al. [32] obtained a yield of 19.06% using the pressing method. Unlike other studies, Chaves Yela et al. [33] did not report the percentage yield of the extracted oil, although they did describe in detail the artisanal process and extensively characterized its physicochemical properties and lipid profile. The process began with the harvesting and storage of ripe fruits for 24 h, followed by washing, selection, softening, pulping, and filtration at 130 °C. Emphasis was placed on the process of filtering with a cloth as a guarantee of the oil’s purity, and proper storage ensured that its properties were preserved and a high-quality product was obtained.
The low oil recovery observed in the present study raises concerns regarding the economic feasibility of using decoction as the main extraction method. While the method aligns with traditional practices, alternative techniques such as cold pressing or supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) should be considered to enhance yield. SFE, particularly with CO2, has been explored in other vegetable oil extractions, demonstrating improved oil purity and higher efficiency while eliminating the risk of solvent contamination [34]. Future research should evaluate the implementation of SFE or enzymatic-assisted extraction to optimize oil recovery without compromising environmental and safety standards.
The process for the preparation of the cosmetic cream involved heating the oil and aqueous phases separately. Once the components of the oil phase reached a liquid state and the required temperature, the aqueous phase was combined with the oil phase to obtain the desired cosmetic emulsion. This coincides with the phase inversion method, also known as the indirect method, used by previous researchers [35,36]. In this method, the oil phase is heated separately from the aqueous phase, and through continuous stirring, the aqueous phase is gradually incorporated into the oil phase until the desired emulsion is achieved.
The study carried out by Rivera et al. [26] highlights that cold pressing, complemented by preheating at 85 °C for 10 min, represents the most efficient option in terms of yield, with a production of over 56.77%. This method preserves the functional properties of the product during extraction, unlike hot pressing, which prevents the loss of volatile components observed in decoction extraction methods. In addition, it is noted that this technique does not cause potential skin irritation associated with the use of hexane or other organic solvents, making it a safer and more effective alternative.
The equipment selected for the extraction of oils from both morete and ungurahua is the same because these two fruits share similar characteristics in terms of their softening, pulping, and oil extraction. We based this choice on the information provided by Aliaga Zumaeta and Quispe Alarcon [37], who used a pulper designed to separate the pulp from the fibrous material, pips, and skin of various fruits. This equipment, made of stainless steel, consists of brushes and nylon that rotate at high speeds, which facilitates the breaking of the fruit. It has a processing capacity of 1200 kg per hour. Finally, a pressure and temperature regulator was used. It has a capacity of 370 kg/h. The pressure applied helps to raise the temperature of the pulp, thus helping to obtain a high-quality oil.
In order to select the technology, we were guided by the methodology proposed by Mosquera et al. [36], which involves the creation of a W/O cosmetic emulsion and rapid agitation and a cooling process with slow agitation.
For the selection of the necessary equipment, we relied on the work of Romero et al. [38], who suggest the use of an emulsifier made of stainless steel. This equipment is designed to heat up and withstand both external and internal pressures, as well as vacuum. In addition, it has the capacity to mix at different agitation speeds, adapting to the viscosity of the emulsion. Finally, the device has a cooling system composed of a double chamber through which water and steam circulate. For these reasons, this equipment was seen as the most suitable for carrying out the cosmetic cream production process.
The time required to produce the cosmetic cream was 4.25 h. Therefore, it is feasible to produce two or more batches per day. In comparison, in a research project carried out by Aguilar [39] for the production of 10 kg of cosmetic cream, the total time was 0.52 h. In the heating phase, Zurita Acosta and López Pérez [40] used a jacketed mixing tank at 65–75 °C for 20 min. Furthermore, Chauhan and Gupta [41] used a melting kettle for heating at 90 °C for 10 to 15 min until the oils and fats were melted. In the mixing and melting process, Celeiro et al. [42,43] reported that it should be kept running for 15 to 20 min until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
The raw materials used in this context were renewable, so the technology used is environmentally friendly. In addition, a minimal amount of solid waste was generated, as detailed in Table 5. The small amounts of waste, together with the efficient use of raw materials and energy, as well as the implementation of sustainable practices in the production and collection of these raw materials, ensure that the proposed technology complies with the recommendations set out by Bom et al. [34] and Rocca et al. [44].
The values obtained in the production of 260 batches/year, evaluated through dynamic economic indicators, demonstrate that the process is economically viable and that the recovery of the investment is feasible, which is in line with the research by Cerda et al. [45,46]. What is more, both product quality and market demand suggest the possibility of increasing the quantity of batches produced, resulting in an increase in revenue and a reduction in the time required to recover the investment, as noted by Cerda et al. [47].

5. Conclusions

With this research, it has been possible to prove that, to carry out the conceptual design of a technological process, it is essential to obtain experimental data that facilitate its subsequent scaling up. The unit operations, the equipment, and the operating time of the case study designed in this research should be confirmed or modified during such an experiment.
In the conceptual design for obtaining cosmetic cream, an operating time of 4.25 h was estimated, which would allow the production of two or more batches per day, depending on demand. Furthermore, the initial investment was expected to be recovered within 6.24 years.
The results obtained indicate that the extraction process of Amazonian vegetable oils and their incorporation into cosmetic emulsions have potential for scalability, provided that the appropriate processing conditions are maintained to preserve the essential physicochemical properties of the commercial formulations. The simulation of the process using SuperPro Designer V10.0 has made it possible to evaluate the technical feasibility, optimize operational parameters, and estimate economic feasibility based on dynamic indicators.
From an industrial perspective, this study shines a light on the potential application of Amazonian oils in the cosmetic industry, promoting the development of sustainable formulations aligned with the growing market interest in natural and ecological products. The proposed process is framed within the current trends of green chemistry and circular economy. This makes it a viable option for companies seeking to integrate regional biodiversity into innovative formulations, adding value to both the industry and local communities.
In addition, the methodological approach presented in this study can serve as a reference for future industrial projects, particularly those aimed at scaling up bioproducts derived from natural resources. The combination of traditional extraction techniques with modern process simulation tools offers a comprehensive strategy that balances productive efficiency, environmental sustainability, and economic viability, favoring the application of this strategy in broader industrial contexts.
To strengthen the applicability of the process at the industrial level, future research should focus on optimizing extraction yields, evaluating alternative strategies for efficient scale-up, and analyzing the long-term stability of emulsions under different storage conditions. Furthermore, validating the process at a pilot scale and integrating advanced emulsification technologies will be key steps to consolidate its implementation in the cosmetic industry.
This study establishes a technical and economic basis for the industrialization of cosmetic emulsions from Amazonian oils, confirming that process conceptualization, simulation, and economic analysis are essential for the development and scale-up of formulations with industrial viability and market potential.

Author Contributions

Conceptualization, A.P.M. and E.G.Y.; methodology, I.S.G.G. and M.E.F.F.; software, A.P.M. and R.A.-N.; formal analysis, L.S., M.R. and L.R.B.S.; investigation, E.G.Y. and L.R.B.S.; writing—original draft preparation, R.A.-N. and E.G.Y.; writing—review and editing, M.R. and L.S.; supervision, A.P.M. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

Funding

This study was funded by Universidad Estatal Amazónica in Puyo, Ecuador, and has been completed as part of the project: Desarrollo de Nuevos Productos Agroindustriales de Alto Valor Agregado a Partir de Aceites Fijos, Esenciales y Extractos de Plantas Ricos en Metabolitos Antioxidantes o Antimicrobianos [Development of New Agro-Industrial Products with High Added Value from Fixed Oils, Essential Oils, and Plant Extracts Rich in Antioxidant or Antimicrobial Metabolites].

Data Availability Statement

All relevant data are included within the article.

Acknowledgments

The authors wish to thank Helen Pugh for proofreading the article.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflicts of interest or potential conflicts of commercial interest.

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Processes 13 01770 g001
Figure 1. Methodological phases used in the conceptual design of the process for obtaining the cosmetic emulsion.
Figure 1. Methodological phases used in the conceptual design of the process for obtaining the cosmetic emulsion.
Processes 13 01770 g001
Processes 13 01770 g002
Figure 2. Experimental plant for obtaining vegetable oils and cosmetic cream.
Figure 2. Experimental plant for obtaining vegetable oils and cosmetic cream.
Processes 13 01770 g002
Processes 13 01770 g003
Figure 3. Procedure for obtaining cosmetic cream. (A) Block diagram. Continuous lines (────) represent the main flow of the process, indicating the sequence of unit operations from the selection of raw materials to the finalization of the product. Dashed lines (- - - - - - -) mark out the stages of the process, separating the extraction of the vegetable oils (morete and ungurahua) from the production of the cosmetic emulsion. They also indicate the relationship between the processed raw materials and their integration in the final formulation. (B) Gantt chart of the vegetable oil extraction and cosmetic cream production process. The key stages are represented, including grinding (GRIND), separation (SPLIT), heating (HEAT), agitation (AGITATE), material transfer (TRANSFER-IN and TRANSFER-OUT), and cleaning (CIP), allowing the visualization of the duration and sequence of each operation within the process.
Figure 3. Procedure for obtaining cosmetic cream. (A) Block diagram. Continuous lines (────) represent the main flow of the process, indicating the sequence of unit operations from the selection of raw materials to the finalization of the product. Dashed lines (- - - - - - -) mark out the stages of the process, separating the extraction of the vegetable oils (morete and ungurahua) from the production of the cosmetic emulsion. They also indicate the relationship between the processed raw materials and their integration in the final formulation. (B) Gantt chart of the vegetable oil extraction and cosmetic cream production process. The key stages are represented, including grinding (GRIND), separation (SPLIT), heating (HEAT), agitation (AGITATE), material transfer (TRANSFER-IN and TRANSFER-OUT), and cleaning (CIP), allowing the visualization of the duration and sequence of each operation within the process.
Processes 13 01770 g003
Processes 13 01770 g004
Figure 4. Process flow diagram for obtaining vegetable oils and making cosmetic cream. GR-101, GR-102 (grinding); CSP-101, CSP-102, CSP-103, CSP-104 (component splitting); SR-101, SR-102 (shredding); V-101, V-102, V-103, V-104 (blending/storage); P-102, P-103, P-104 (transfer pumps); M-103 (final mixing); Montanov 202, Montanov 68b, Theobroma cacao, Sharomix (ingredients for the oil phase of the emulsion); cosmetic emulsion (final product).
Figure 4. Process flow diagram for obtaining vegetable oils and making cosmetic cream. GR-101, GR-102 (grinding); CSP-101, CSP-102, CSP-103, CSP-104 (component splitting); SR-101, SR-102 (shredding); V-101, V-102, V-103, V-104 (blending/storage); P-102, P-103, P-104 (transfer pumps); M-103 (final mixing); Montanov 202, Montanov 68b, Theobroma cacao, Sharomix (ingredients for the oil phase of the emulsion); cosmetic emulsion (final product).
Processes 13 01770 g004
Processes 13 01770 g005
Figure 5. Results of the economic analysis: (A) investment and production costs; (B) dynamic economic and profitability indicators.
Figure 5. Results of the economic analysis: (A) investment and production costs; (B) dynamic economic and profitability indicators.
Processes 13 01770 g005
Table 1. Formulation for 1 kg of cosmetic cream.
Table 1. Formulation for 1 kg of cosmetic cream.
IngredientVendor LocationAmount (g)
Montanov 202 (emulsifier 1)(Formulator Sample Shop,
Lincolnton, NC 28092, USA)		34
Montanov 68 (emulsifier 2)(Formulator Sample Shop,
Lincolnton, NC 28092, USA)		10
Cocoa butter(Local Market, Puyo, Ecuador)155
Morete oil(Local Market, Puyo, Ecuador)44
Ungurahua oil(Local Market, Puyo, Ecuador)102
PreservativesEssential oils were obtained
in our laboratory by steam distillation Sharomix (Hebbe cosmetics, Cuernavaca, Mexico)		10
WaterDistilled in our laboratory645
Table 2. Comparison of extraction methods, unit operations, and equipment for morete and ungurahua oils.
Table 2. Comparison of extraction methods, unit operations, and equipment for morete and ungurahua oils.
Process StageMethod: Option 1
(Decoction)		Method: Option 2
(Solvent Extraction)		Method: Option 3 (Cold Pressing)Method: Option 4 (Hot Pressing)Equipment Used
Softening
of material		Heating in water
at 60 °C		Maceration
in the solvent		Heating in water
at 60 °C		Heating in water
at 60 °C		Jacketed tank
Grinding/
Pulping		Manual separationManual separationGround with
a machine		Ground with
a machine		Grinding mill
or pulper
Drying24 h at 60 °C24 h at 60 °C24 h at 60 °C24 h at 60 °CTray dryer
Oil extractionBoiling and decantingSolvent extractionCold pressingHot pressingOil press machine
or extraction reactor
FiltrationGravity filtrationSolvent evaporation and filtrationMechanical filtrationMechanical filtrationPlate filter
Table 3. Unit operations and equipment for the production of cosmetic emulsion.
Table 3. Unit operations and equipment for the production of cosmetic emulsion.
Process StageUnit OperationEquipment Used
Raw material preparationAddition of raw materialsTurbo emulsifier
HeatingWater phase heatingTurbo emulsifier
HeatingOil phase heatingTurbo emulsifier
MixingHomogenization of phasesTurbo emulsifier
CoolingControlled coolingCooling system
Table 4. Environmental indicators * for the artisanal creation of cosmetic emulsion.
Table 4. Environmental indicators * for the artisanal creation of cosmetic emulsion.
Environmental IndicatorInput/Output CurrentAmountUnit
Raw material consumptionMontanov 680.011kg/kg
Montanov 2020.036kg/kg
Morete fruit0.136kg/kg
Sharomix0.011kg/kg
Cocoa butter0.111kg/kg
Ungurahua fruit0.563kg/kg
Water consumptionWater48.411kg/kg
Energy consumptionPower consumption5.86kW⋅h/kg
Steam consumption10kg/kg
Refrigerated water260kg/kg
DischargeOf gases--
Of liquids--
Of solids0.56kg/kg
Cosmetic emulsion4717.48kg/yr
* Calculations according to Pérez-Martínez et al. [24].
Table 5. Equipment specifications and acquisition cost for the production of cosmetic emulsion.
Table 5. Equipment specifications and acquisition cost for the production of cosmetic emulsion.
QuantityEquipmentDesign ParameterUnit Cost (USD)Cost (USD)
1Turbo emulsifierTank volume = 22.47 L20,00020,000
1Turbo emulsifierTank volume = 14.66 L20,00020,000
1Pulper Nominal Yield = 2.55 kg/h14,00014,000
1PulperNominal Yield = 10.58 kg/h14,00014,000
1Jacketed tankTank volume = 2.62 L10,00010,000
1Jacketed tankTank volume = 8.95 L10,00010,000
1CrusherNominal Yield = 2.55 kg/h10001000
1CrusherNominal Yield = 2.16 kg/h10001000
1PressNominal Yield = 12.98 kg/h60006000
1PressNominal Yield = 45.82 kg/h60006000
Unlisted equipment 25,00025,000
Total126,000
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MDPI and ACS Style

Guardado Yordi, E.; Guambuguete Guaman, I.S.; Freire Fuentes, M.E.; Radice, M.; Scalvenzi, L.; Abreu-Naranjo, R.; Bravo Sánchez, L.R.; Pérez Martínez, A. Conceptual Design of the Process for Making Cosmetic Emulsion Using Amazonian Oils. Processes 2025, 13, 1770. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr13061770

AMA Style

Guardado Yordi E, Guambuguete Guaman IS, Freire Fuentes ME, Radice M, Scalvenzi L, Abreu-Naranjo R, Bravo Sánchez LR, Pérez Martínez A. Conceptual Design of the Process for Making Cosmetic Emulsion Using Amazonian Oils. Processes. 2025; 13(6):1770. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr13061770

Chicago/Turabian Style

Guardado Yordi, Estela, Irma Sofia Guambuguete Guaman, Mayra Elizabeth Freire Fuentes, Matteo Radice, Laura Scalvenzi, Reinier Abreu-Naranjo, Luis Ramón Bravo Sánchez, and Amaury Pérez Martínez. 2025. "Conceptual Design of the Process for Making Cosmetic Emulsion Using Amazonian Oils" Processes 13, no. 6: 1770. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr13061770

APA Style

Guardado Yordi, E., Guambuguete Guaman, I. S., Freire Fuentes, M. E., Radice, M., Scalvenzi, L., Abreu-Naranjo, R., Bravo Sánchez, L. R., & Pérez Martínez, A. (2025). Conceptual Design of the Process for Making Cosmetic Emulsion Using Amazonian Oils. Processes, 13(6), 1770. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr13061770

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