Search Results (1,827)

Seeds of Cucurbitaceae crops represent a promising yet underexplored source of bioactive compounds with potential applications beyond nutrition, particularly in the cosmetics industry. This review examines the seeds of Citrullus lanatus (watermelon), Cucumis melo (melon), and Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin), focusing on their biochemical composition and evaluating their functional value in natural cosmetic development. Although these fruits are widely consumed, industrial processing generates substantial seed by-products that are often discarded. These seeds are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, proteins, carbohydrates, and phytochemicals, positioning them as sustainable raw materials for value-added applications. The incorporation of seed-derived extracts into cosmetic formulations offers multiple skin and hair benefits, including antioxidant activity, hydration, and support in managing conditions such as hyperpigmentation, acne, and psoriasis. They also contribute to hair care by improving oil balance, reducing frizz, and enhancing strand nourishment. However, challenges such as environmental instability and low dermal permeability of seed oils have prompted interest in nanoencapsulation technologies to improve delivery, stability, and efficacy. This review summarizes current scientific findings and highlights the potential of Cucurbitaceae seeds as innovative and sustainable ingredients for cosmetic and personal care applications. Full article

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is a key factor in the overproduction of melanin in the skin. Melanocytes produce melanin through melanogenesis to protect the skin from UVB radiation-induced damage. However, excessive melanogenesis can lead to hyperpigmentation and increase the risk of malignant melanoma. Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme in melanogenesis; it catalyzes the oxidation of tyrosine to 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine and subsequently to dopaquinone. Thus, inhibiting tyrosinase is a promising strategy for preventing melanogenesis and skin hyperpigmentation. White mulberry (Morus alba L.) is rich in antioxidants, and mulberry fruit extracts have been used as cosmetic skin-lightening agents. However, data on the capacity of mulberry fruit extracts to inhibit tyrosinase under UVB radiation-induced melanogenic conditions remain scarce, especially in an in vivo model. In this study, we evaluated the effects of a mulberry crude extract (MCE) on UVB radiation-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish embryos. The MCE significantly reduced tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in a dose-dependent manner without inducing cytotoxicity. These effects are likely attributable to the antioxidant constituents of the extract. Our findings highlight the potential of this MCE as an effective tyrosinase inhibitor for the prevention of UVB radiation-induced skin hyperpigmentation. Full article

Metagenomic studies have provided deeper insights into the complex interactions between the skin and its microbiota. However, limited research has been conducted on the skin microbiota of Brazilian women. Given that Brazil ranks as the fourth-largest consumer of cosmetics worldwide, the development of new tools to analyze skin microbiota is crucial for formulating cosmetic products that promote a healthy microbiome. Skin samples were analyzed using the Illumina platform. Biometrology assessments were applied. The results showed pH variations were more pronounced in the older age group, along with higher transepidermal water loss values. Metagenomic analysis showed a predominance of Actinobacteria (83%), followed by Proteobacteria (7%), Firmicutes (9%) and Bacteroidetes (1%). In the older group (36–45 years old), an increase in Actinobacteria (87%) was observed and a decrease in Proteobacteria (6%). Moreover, the results differ from the international literature, since an increase in proteobacteria (13.9%) and a decrease in actinobacteria (46.7%) were observe in aged skin. The most abundant genus identified was Propionibacterium (84%), being the dominant species. Interestingly, previous studies have suggested a decline in Cutibacterium abundance with aging; although there is no significant difference, it is possible to observe an increasing trend in this genus in older skin. These studies can clarify many points about the skin microbiota of Brazilian women, and these findings could lead to the development of new cosmetics based on knowledge of the skin microbiome. Full article

Skin dullness contributes to a fatigued and aged appearance, often exceeding one’s biological age. It is a common dermatological concern influenced by aging and poor lifestyle habits, regardless of ethnicity or age. This study aimed to examine advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and their receptor (receptor for AGEs [RAGE]) as contributing factors to skin dullness. AGEs themselves have a yellowish hue, contributing to “yellow dullness.” Additionally, AGE–RAGE signaling promotes melanin production in melanocytes and impairs keratinocyte differentiation as a result of inflammation. Therefore, regulating the AGE–RAGE interaction may help reduce skin dullness. Through screening various natural ingredients, we found that peony root extract (PRE) inhibits AGE formation and blocks AGE–RAGE binding. Furthermore, the presence of PRE leads to the suppression of AGE-induced melanin production in melanocytes and the restoration of impaired keratinocyte differentiation in glycated basement membrane components. In a human clinical study, topical application of a 1% PRE-containing lotion for 2 weeks significantly reduced melanin content, with a trend toward decreased AGE accumulation and visible spots on the cheeks. These findings support the potential of PRE as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient that comprehensively addresses skin dullness by modulating the AGE–RAGE interaction. Full article

Aloe vera gel is a valuable raw material used in the cosmetic industry for its skin care properties. The present study analyzed the effects of the fermentation of aloe vera gel with a tea fungus kombucha, which is a symbiotic consortium of bacteria and yeast, carried out for 10 and 20 days (samples F10 and F20, respectively). The resulting ferments and unfermented gel were subjected to chromatographic analysis to determine the content of biologically active compounds. The permeability and accumulation of these compounds in pig skin were evaluated. In addition, the methods of DPPH, ABTS and the determination of intracellular free radical levels in keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (HDF) cell lines were used to determine antioxidant potential. The results showed a higher content of phenolic acids and flavonoids and better antioxidant properties of the ferments, especially after 20 days of fermentation. Cytotoxicity tests against HaCaT and HDF cells confirmed the absence of toxic effects; moreover, samples at the concentrations tested (mainly 10 and 25 mg/mL) showed cytoprotective effects. The analysis of enzymatic activity (collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase) by the ELISA technique showed higher levels of inhibition for F10 and F20. The kombucha ferments also exhibited better moisturizing properties and lower levels of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), confirming their cosmetic potential. Full article

In recent decades, there has been a marked surge in the development of marine-by-product-derived ingredients for cosmetic applications, driven by the increasing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. Marine animal by-products, particularly those from fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, represent an abundant yet underutilized source of bioactive compounds with notable potential in cosmeceutical innovation. Generated as waste from the fishery and seafood-processing industries, these materials are rich in valuable bioactives, such as chitosan, collagen, peptides, amino acids, fatty acids, polar lipids, lipid-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, pigments, phenolics, and mineral-based substrates like hydroxyapatite. Marine by-product bioactives can be isolated via several extraction methods, and most importantly, green ones. These compounds exhibit a broad spectrum of skin-health-promoting effects, including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, anti-wrinkle, anti-hyperpigmentation, and wound-healing properties. Moreover, applications extend beyond skincare to include hair, nail, and oral care. The present review provides a comprehensive analysis of bioactives obtained from marine mollusks, crustaceans, and fish by-products, emphasizing modern extraction technologies with a focus on green and sustainable approaches. It further explores their mechanisms of action and documented efficacy in cosmetic formulations. Finally, the review outlines current limitations and offers future perspectives for the industrial valorization of marine by-products in functional and environmentally-conscious cosmetic development. Full article

Background: Blackberry seed oil (BSO), obtained from Rubus spp. Xavante cultivar via supercritical CO₂ extraction, contains bioactive lipids and antioxidants, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor solubility and stability. Nanoencapsulation with poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) can overcome these limitations. Methods: BSO was characterized by Ultra-High-Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry and incorporated into PCL nanocapsules (NCBSO) using the preformed polymer deposition method. Physicochemical properties, stability (at 4 °C, room temperature, and 37 °C for 90 days), cytotoxicity, and collagen production were assessed in human fibroblasts. Additionally, a predictive in silico analysis using PASS Online, Molinspiration, and SEA platforms was performed to identify the bioactivities of major BSO compounds related to collagen synthesis, antioxidant potential, and anti-aging effects. Results: NCBSO showed a nanometric size of ~267 nm, low polydispersity (PDI < 0.2), negative zeta potential (−28 mV), and spherical morphology confirmed by FE-SEM. The dispersion remained stable across all tested temperatures, preserving pH and colloidal properties. In particular, BSO and NCBSO at 100 µg.mL⁻¹ significantly enhanced in vitro collagen production by 170% and 200%, respectively, compared to untreated cells (p < 0.01). Superior bioactivity was observed for NCBSO. The in silico results support the role of key compounds in promoting collagen biosynthesis and protecting skin structure. No cytotoxic effects were achieved. Conclusions: The nanoencapsulation of BSO into PCL nanocapsules ensured formulation stability and potentiated collagen production. These findings support the potential of NCBSO as a promising candidate for future development as a collagen-boosting cosmeceutical. Full article

Background: Olive pomace, a byproduct of olive oil production, represents approximately 85% of the processed material and poses environmental risks when improperly discarded. Its composition is rich in polyphenols with potential for cosmetic use, especially in skin barrier care. Objective: To develop a natural extract rich in antioxidants from olive pomace using sustainable solvents (water and 1,3-propanediol) for skin barrier support. Methods: The phenolic composition and in vitro biological activities of the extracts were analyzed. Results: The extracts demonstrated a reducing capacity (15 to 33 mg GAE/g) and flavonoid content (4 to 5 mg QE/g). In addition, their antioxidant capacity was proven through the inhibition of the DPPH radical (7% to 91%) and ABTS (7% to 95%) and the reduction in oxidation in the beta-carotene/linoleic acid system (6% to 35%), presenting results superior to those of tocopherol acetate. The hydroxytyrosol and oleuropein compounds, ranging from 28 to 54 and 51 to 85 µg/mL, respectively, were quantified via HPLC. The extract with the highest levels of hydroxytyrosol and oleuropein was analyzed via UHPLC-QqTOF-MS, and 33 compounds were identified. This extract showed antiglycation activity (24% to 40%). The incorporation of this extract into a cosmetic emulsion resulted in sufficient antioxidant capacity to replace tocopherol acetate. Conclusions: The use of effective extraction techniques and nontoxic solvents ensures the sustainability and safety of the extract for application as a natural cosmetic ingredient, aiming to promote the health and integrity of the skin barrier. Full article

Biotin (vitamin B7) is a common, naturally occurring water-soluble vitamin. It belongs to the broad group of B vitamins. It is a common ingredient in dietary supplements, cosmetics, medicines, and parapharmaceutical preparations administered orally or applied topically (to the skin, hair, nails). The problem of the relationship between vitamin B supplementation and sensitivity seems to be multi-threaded. There is little literature data that would confirm that oral vitamin B supplementation or local exposure to biotin is a significant sensitizing factor. Moreover, it seems that allergy to vitamin B7 is very rare. It is possible, however, that the relationship between biotin and hypersensitivity is not limited to its direct action, but results from its essential metabolic function. Vitamin B7, as a cofactor of five carboxylases, affects the main pathways of cellular metabolism. Both deficiency and excess of biotin can result in metabolic disorders, which can have a significant impact on the homeostasis of the entire organism, including the efficient functioning of the immune system. Dysregulation of immune systems leads to its dysfunctional functioning, which can also lead to sensitization to various environmental antigens (allergens). Biotin is also used as an element of some methodological models in immunochemical tests (in vitro diagnostics), including methods used to measure the concentration of immunoglobulin E (IgE), both total (tIgE) and allergen-specific (sIgE). For this reason, vitamin B7 supplementation can be a significant interfering factor in some immunochemical tests, which can lead to false laboratory test results, both false positive and false negative, depending on the test format. This situation can have a direct impact on the quality and effectiveness of diagnostics in various clinical situations, including allergy diagnostics. This review focuses on the role of biotin in allergic reactions, both as a causative factor (allergen/hapten), a factor predisposing to the development of sensitization to various allergens, and an interfering factor in immunochemical methods used in laboratory diagnosis of hypersensitivity reactions and how it can be prevented. Full article

Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are increasingly transforming the landscape of cosmetic formulation, enabling the development of safer, more effective, and personalized products. This article explores how AI-driven predictive modeling is applied across various components of cosmetic products, including surfactants, polymers, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, and prebiotics. These technologies are employed to forecast critical properties such as texture, stability, and shelf-life, optimizing both product performance and user experience. The integration of computational toxicology and ML algorithms also allows for early prediction of skin sensitization risks, including the likelihood of adverse events such as allergic contact dermatitis. Furthermore, AI models can support efficacy assessment, bridging formulation science with dermatological outcomes. The article also addresses the ethical, regulatory, and safety challenges associated with AI in cosmetic science, underlining the need for transparency, accountability, and harmonized standards. The potential of AI to reshape dermocosmetic innovation is vast, but it must be approached with robust oversight and a commitment to user well-being. Full article

Calcipotriol, a synthetic vitamin D₃ analogue widely used in psoriasis treatment, requires a detailed stability assessment due to its topical application and potential exposure to UV radiation. As a drug applied directly to the skin, calcipotriol is particularly susceptible to photodegradation, which may affect its therapeutic efficacy and safety profile. The present study focuses on the analysis of calcipotriol photostability. An advanced UHPLC/MS^E method was employed for the precise determination of calcipotriol and its degradation products. Particular attention was given to the effects of commonly used organic UV filters—approved for use in cosmetic products in both Europe and the USA (benzophenone-3, dioxybenzone, meradimate, sulisobenzone, homosalate, and avobenzone)—on the stability of calcipotriol. Unexpected degradation of calcipotriol was observed in the presence of sulisobenzone. Importantly, this effect was consistently detected in methanolic solution and in the pharmaceutical formulation containing calcipotriol and betamethasone, which is particularly significant from a practical perspective. This finding underscores the necessity of evaluating photostability under real-life conditions, as cosmetic ingredients, when co-applied with topical drugs on the skin, may substantially influence the stability profile of the pharmaceutical active ingredient. The research resulted in the first-time characterization of four degradation products of calcipotriol. The degradation process was found to primarily affect the E-4-cyclopropyl-4-hydroxy-1-methylbut-2-en-1-yl moiety, causing its isomerization to the Z isomer and the formation of diastereomers with either the R or S configuration. Computational analyses using the OSIRIS Property Explorer indicated that none of the five degradation products exhibit a toxicity effect, whereas molecular docking studies suggested possible binding of two of the five degradation products of calcipotriol with the VDR. Full article

This study investigated the natural bioactive compounds in Polygonum cuspidatum Sieb. et Zucc. (P. cuspidatum) by fractionating a 70% ethanol extract using n-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, and water. The total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of each fraction were determined, and their antioxidant activities were evaluated using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP assays. Additionally, the anti-diabetic potential was assessed via α-glucosidase inhibitory activity, while anti-obesity activity was evaluated using lipase inhibitory activity. The fractions were also tested for tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities to assess their skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle potential, and their antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa was determined using the agar diffusion method. Finally, bioactive compounds were identified and quantified using HPLC and GC–MSD. The results showed that the ethyl acetate fraction possessed the highest total polyphenol content (0.53 ± 0.01 g GAE/g) and total flavonoid content (0.19 ± 0.02 g QE/g). It also exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with the lowest DPPH radical scavenging IC₅₀ (0.01 ± 0.00 mg/mL), ABTS radical scavenging IC₅₀ (0.06 ± 0.00 mg/mL), and the highest FRAP value (6.02 ± 0.30 mM Fe²⁺/mg). Moreover, it demonstrated potent enzyme inhibitory activities, including tyrosinase inhibitory activity (67.78 ± 2.50%), elastase inhibitory activity (83.84 ± 1.64%), α-glucosidase inhibitory activity (65.14 ± 10.29%), and lipase inhibitory activity (85.79 ± 1.04%). In the antibacterial activity, the ethyl acetate fraction produced a clear inhibitory zone of 19.50 mm against Staphylococcus aureus, indicating notable antibacterial activity. HPLC-PDA and GC–MSD analyses identified tannic acid and emodin as the major bioactive constituents. These findings suggest that the ethyl acetate fraction of P. cuspidatum extract, rich in polyphenol and flavonoid compounds, is a promising natural source of bioactive ingredients for applications in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Further research is needed to explore its mechanisms and therapeutic applications. Full article

Cellulite, characterised by cutaneous dimpling, surface irregularities, and dermal atrophy skin texture, affects up to 90% of post-pubertal females. It is a multifactorial condition involving anatomical, hormonal, and metabolic components, primarily affecting the thighs and buttocks. Despite numerous available therapies, there remains a high demand for effective, non-invasive, and well-tolerated treatment options. This single-centre, in vivo, prospective study evaluated the efficacy of a non-pharmacological, thermogenic topical cream-gel combined with manual massage in women with symmetrical grade II or III cellulite (Nürnberger–Müller scale). A total of 56 female participants (aged 18–55 years) were enrolled and instructed to apply the product twice daily for eight weeks to the thighs and buttocks. Efficacy was assessed using instrumental skin profilometry (ANTERA^® 3D CS imaging system), dermatological clinical grading, and patient self-assessment questionnaires. Quantitative analysis showed a mean reduction of 23.5% in skin indentation volume (p < 0.01) and a mean decrease of 1.1 points on the cellulite severity scale by week 8. Patient-reported outcomes revealed 85.7% satisfaction with visible results and 91% satisfaction with product texture and ease of application. Dermatological evaluation confirmed no clinically significant adverse reactions, and only 3.5% of participants reported mild and transient skin sensitivity. These findings suggest that this topical cream-gel formulation, when used in conjunction with manual massage, represents a well-tolerated and non-invasive option for the cosmetic improvement of moderate to severe cellulite. Full article

This study assessed the accuracy of a long-term AI-based projection of signs of facial aging and their acceptance by consumers. Standardized photographs of 25 Chinese and 25 French women were first taken at T0 and graded using ethnic-specific skin aging atlases. An AI-based algorithm then aged the photographs by 10 (T10) and 15 (T15) years. A total of 246 women from China, France, and Thailand compared these images in pairs (T0 vs. T0 + 10 or T0 + 15) and provided feedback on their overall impressions, realism, and psychological acceptance via a questionnaire. Besides lower face ptosis (p < 0.01), the simulated images revealed that regardless of ethnicity, there were no significant differences in grading. Irrespective of ethnic background, 62–78% of overall panelists found the projections realistic and liked them, while 85–96% of panelists (Chinese and French) were willing to test them. A total of 47% of Thai panelists were reluctant to try, while 4–14% found it scary. This indicated some degree of cultural influence. This study confirms women’s acceptance of future facial appearance with some degree of cultural divergence. It also highlights a valid methodology to explore skin aging for a more realistic and personalized cosmetic improvement and innovation. Full article