Search Results (32)

Background/Objectives: Insect oils have gained attention as sustainable cosmetic ingredients due to their bioactive lipid content. This study aimed to characterize oils from cricket and to evaluate their safety, biological activities, and performance in sunscreen formulations. Methods: Oils were extracted from Gryllus bimaculatus, Teleogryllus mitratus, and Acheta domesticus by cold pressing following hot-air drying. Fatty acid composition was determined using gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Safety was assessed by cytotoxicity testing in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) assay. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were evaluated by intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitric oxide (NO^•) assays. Based on biological performance, T. mitratus oil (TMO) was incorporated into sunscreen creams containing physical and chemical ultraviolet (UV) filters. Physical stability, viscosity, pH, sun protection factor (SPF), persistent pigment darkening/ultraviolet A protection factor (PPD/UVA-PF), and blue light protection were evaluated. Results: All cricket oils were non-cytotoxic to NHDF cells and were classified as non-irritating in the HET-CAM assay. TMO exhibited the strongest antioxidant activity, reducing intracellular ROS and significantly inhibiting NO^• production in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated cells. Only TMO showed measurable UVA protection (PPD/UVA-PF = 12.1, PA+++). Sunscreen creams formulated with TMO achieved higher photoprotective efficacy than olive oil-based creams, with SPF values up to 40.51 and PPD/UVA-PF up to 39.17. The inclusion of foundation pigments further increased SPF to 43.09 and enhanced blue light protection to 35.1%. Conclusions: TMO is a safe and effective multifunctional ingredient that enhances sunscreen performance and supports sustainable cosmetic formulation. Full article

Porphyra-334 (PPR-334) is one of the species of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), known as biological UV protection ingredients. In this study, we developed a large-scale purification process to extract PPR-334 from Saccharomyces cerevisiae and confirmed the previously identified efficacy of PPR-334, while also demonstrating its efficacy under UV-independent conditions. PPR-334 scavenged reactivity oxygen species (ROS) and increased catalase (CAT) gene expression in human epidermal keratinocyte cells (HEKa). In both HEKa and normal human dermal fibroblast cells (NHDF), PPR-334 suppressed the gene expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). NHDF treated with PPR-334 showed increased collagen expression and proliferation, while advanced glycation end-product (AGE) production was decreased. It was confirmed that the efficacy in vitro was also reproduced in human artificial skin tissue models. Above all, the antioxidant efficacy mechanism of PPR-334 through nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) and Caspase-9 signals was identified. It was determined that the proliferation efficacy of PPR-334 was due to factors related to the cell cycle. These results demonstrate the anti-aging efficacy of PPR-334 independent of UV irradiation, while enhancing the UV-blocking and antioxidant effects. Thus, we suggest the potential of PPR-334 as a sunscreen agent as well as a dual- or multifunctional material. Full article

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced skin photoaging impacts both appearance and skin health, potentially leading to disorders and cancer. Unlike traditional sunscreens, natural antioxidants can target photoaging at its source. Among these, cathelicidins have attracted considerable research interest due to their multifunctional properties. This study examines the gecko-derived cathelicidin-modified peptide G3CY-10, utilizing a microemulsion gel delivery system to address the challenges related to the transdermal absorption of macromolecular peptides, and systematically assesses its anti-photoaging effects and underlying mechanisms. The results demonstrate that the G3CY-10 microemulsion, formulated with a lecithin–ethanol–butyl acetate system (km = 1:1), exhibits notable stability, and the gelation significantly enhances the transdermal delivery efficiency of G3CY-10. The anti-photoaging efficacy of the G3CY-10 microemulsion gel is substantiated by its capacity to mitigate UV-induced skin photoaging in murine models. This is evidenced by a decrease in epidermal thickness, suppression of sebaceous gland proliferation, and restoration of collagen fiber density. Masson staining further corroborates a significant reduction in collagen degradation. Mechanistic analyses suggest that G3CY-10 primarily confers protection by inhibiting UV-induced collagen degradation and reversing the depletion of superoxide dismutase. This study provides a theoretical foundation and technical support for the clinical translation of natural peptides and the development of innovative anti-photoaging products. Full article

Valorization of Phoenix dactylifera L. (date) seeds, an abundant agro-industrial byproduct, offer a sustainable approach to developing multifunctional ingredients for dermocosmetic photoprotection. Rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and lipophilic antioxidants, date seed extracts and oils demonstrate promising UV-absorbing, anti-inflammatory, and free-radical-scavenging properties. Recent in vitro, ex vivo, and preclinical studies underscore their potential as bioactive agents in sunscreen formulations, supporting both skin barrier integrity and oxidative stress mitigation, although clinical validation is still required. This review consolidates current knowledge on the phytochemical profile and biological efficacy of date seed derivatives, with emphasis on their integration into advanced delivery systems such as nanocarriers, Pickering emulsions, and cyclodextrin complexes to enhance photostability, skin permeability, and esthetic acceptability. Safety aspects, including allergenicity, phototoxicity, and regulatory gaps, are critically examined alongside environmental and ethical advantages, including biodegradability and vegan suitability. The findings advocate for the inclusion of Phoenix dactylifera L. seed actives in next-generation dermocosmetic sunscreens that align with circular bioeconomy principles, consumer demand for “reef-safe” products, and evolving international regulations. Further clinical validation is encouraged to fully translate these botanically derived agents into effective and ethically sound sun care innovations. Full article

Sustainable ultraviolet (UV) filters that couple photoprotection with antioxidant activity are needed. Carbon dots (CDots) derived from agro-industrial waste have emerged as promising candidates. CDots were prepared from Coffea canephora (coffee leaf) residues by a one-pot microwave route and characterized by UV–Vis, FTIR, and TEM. Antioxidant capacity was determined by CUPRAC and DPPH-EPR. The photoprotective efficacy was assessed in vitro by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry before and after solar-simulator exposure. Nearly spherical CDots (3.3 ± 0.7 nm) displayed a 4.16 eV optical bandgap and broad absorption from 200 to 400 nm. At 10 μg mL⁻¹, CDots exhibited 24.62 ± 0.19% antioxidant activity relative to Trolox by CUPRAC, while by DPPH-EPR, they showed 99.9 ± 12.5% of radical quenching at 240 µg mL⁻¹. Addition of 4.5% w/w (dry basis) CDots to the sunscreen system increased the in vitro SPF from 26 ± 13 to 161 ± 8 (p < 0.05) while maintaining the critical wavelength at 380 ± 0.64 nm. After 30 min of irradiation, the SPF dropped only 10%, versus 44% for the CDots-free sample (control), indicating superior photostability. Coffee leaf CDots acted as an efficient broadband UV absorber and antioxidant that markedly enhanced and stabilized a conventional sunscreen formulation. The work positions waste-derived CDots as an eco-friendly, next-generation multifunctional ingredient, aligning with circular economy principles. Full article

Background: currently, there is a growing trend toward multifunctional cosmetics, which combine several active ingredients in a single product to enhance efficacy and user convenience. As ingredients may influence one another, it is important to study the behavior of mixing multiple compounds in complex formulations, especially regarding their interaction with the skin. Piceatannol, for instance, is a naturally occurring stilbene recognized for its in vitro potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging activities, making it a promising candidate for dermocosmetic use in suncare. But despite its beneficial biological activities, its cutaneous permeation remains poorly understood, particularly when delivered from complex formulations containing multiple ingredients. Objectives: in this sense, this study aimed to evaluate the in vitro skin diffusion profile of piceatannol from a passion fruit seed extract (P_ext) incorporated into a topical base (B_em) or an organic sunscreen emulsion (O_em), with or without a spilanthol-rich Acmella oleracea extract (J_ext) used as a natural permeation enhancer. Methods: due to ethical and variability issues with human and animal skins, the Strat-M™ synthetic membrane was chosen as a standardized model for the in vitro skin permeation assays. Piceatannol localization within membrane layers was examined by confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), while compound identification in donor and receptor compartments was performed via UHPLC-DAD. Results: piceatannol from B_em was detected up to 140 µm from the Strat-M™ surface and exceeded 180 µm in depth when J_ext and organic sunscreens were included in the formulation. Notably, formulations containing J_ext and those based on O_em promoted enhanced accumulation in both the stratum corneum and deeper skin layers, suggesting an improved delivery potential in lipid-rich vehicles. Conclusions: even though some instability issues were observed, piceatannol penetration into Strat-M™ from the proposed formulations was confirmed, and the results provide a foundation for further research on its topical delivery, supporting the rational development of formulations capable of harnessing its demonstrated biological properties. Full article

This paper presents a literature review on the potential of jaboticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora) peel extracts for application in multifunctional dermocosmetic formulations, particularly as natural antioxidants and photoprotective agents. Utilizing the Methodi Ordinatio methodology, of a total of 1226, 90 scientific articles were selected from six major databases and analyzed through bibliometric mapping (VOSviewer) and qualitative data processing (MAXQDA). The results highlight research concentration in three key areas: (1) extraction methodologies for bioactive compounds, (2) identification and quantification techniques, and (3) biological activities (antioxidant and photoprotective effects). The most frequent compounds reported were anthocyanins (cyanidin-3-glucoside and delphinidin-3-glucoside), quercetin-derived flavonoids (rutin and myricetin), and phenolic acids (ellagic, gallic, and ferulic acids), which exhibit synergistic effects with conventional UV filters. Ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using ethanol and emerging green solvents, like glycerol and deep eutectic solvents (DESs), was identified as an effective, sustainable alternative. Despite increasing evidence supporting the dermocosmetic potential of jaboticaba peel, studies remain scarce, with only one identified investigation using it in a topical formulation. This review provides a structured scientific foundation to encourage research aimed at developing multifunctional, eco-friendly, plant-based cosmetics aligned with the principles of the circular economy. Full article

Sunscreen protects skin from harmful Ultra Violet (UV) rays, preventing skin diseases like cancer and premature aging. This review explores the role of nanotechnology in enhancing sunscreen formulations by incorporating green and sustainable ingredients. Nanoparticles such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide effectively reflect UV rays, improving protection while minimizing white residue, thereby enhancing aesthetics, stability, and efficacy. Recent advancements in formulation include lipid-based and polymer-based nanosystems that improve the delivery of active ingredients, offering multifunctional benefits. Additionally, modern sunscreens integrate anti-aging and antioxidant properties, reflecting the trend toward hybrid formulations with multiple skin benefits. The review also examines recent patents, highlighting innovations in nanotechnology-driven sunscreen formulations and delivery systems. Safety and regulatory concerns are critically analyzed, focusing on public perception of nanoparticles and their environmental impact. Issues such as manufacturing challenges and consumer hesitancy toward nano-scaled formulations due to safety considerations are also discussed. While nanotechnology presents significant potential in advancing sun protection, the review underscores the importance of balancing innovation with safety and sustainability. Ultimately, it serves as a guide for future research directions in nano-based sunscreens, advocating for responsible and informed development in the field. Full article

The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific sun protection products remains underexplored. This study aims to analyze technological trends and innovations in lip photoprotection by reviewing patents published between 2014 and 2024. A comprehensive patent search using the IPC code A61Q19 and the keywords “lip” and “sunscreen” identified 17 relevant patents across China, the United States, and Japan. The patents were examined for active ingredients, formulation strategies, and use of botanical or sustainable excipients. The findings revealed that patented formulations predominantly rely on well-established UV filters such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, octyl methoxycinnamate, and avobenzone, often combined with antioxidants like ferulic acid and rutin for enhanced efficacy. Lipid-based excipients were widely used to improve texture, hydration, and product stability. Although many formulations exhibit a conservative ingredient profile, the strategic combination of UV filters with natural antioxidants and moisturizing lipids demonstrates a multifunctional approach aimed at enhancing both protection and user experience. Full article

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin injury, including sunburn, photoaging, and augmented risk of skin cancer, primarily through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that induce oxidative stress. Rosmarinic acid (RA), a natural phenolic compound with antioxidant and several other biological properties, has shown promise in mitigating such damage when incorporated into sunscreens. We evaluated RA’s possible interactions and potential to enhance the efficacy of three worldwide known UVB filters—ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), octocrylene (OCT), and ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS). The performance of sunscreens with and without RA (0.1% w/w) was analyzed through in vitro and in vivo photoprotective assessments. The HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography—thiobarbituric acid reactive substances—ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol, which quantified oxidative stress reduction in the human stratum corneum, was also used. The in vitro photoprotective assays showed that RA had distinct levels of interactions with the UVB filters. When associated with EHMC, RA exclusively acted in the UVB range (SPF-enhancing effect). Remarkably, for EHS, RA contributed to a higher efficacy profile in the total UV spectrum. OCT-RA was the sample that reached the highest critical wavelength value parallelly to OCT, boosting the in vivo SPF by more than 157% in comparison to OCT. However, its in vitro SPF performance was not affected by the RA addition, being comparable to OCT, EHS, and EHS-RA. Furthermore, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC protocol highlighted RA’s ability to reduce lipid peroxidation, with OCT-RA exhibiting the most notable protective effect. These findings underscore RA’s potential as a multifunctional additive in sunscreen systems, enhancing both photoprotection and oxidative stress mitigation. Full article

Traditional sunscreens have relied on synthetic compounds to protect against harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, there is increasing interest in utilizing the natural photoprotective properties of microalgae extracts. This approach does not only aim to enhance the stability and efficacy of sun protection formulae but also seeks to reduce the reliance on synthetic sunscreens. This study investigates the encapsulation of Tisochrysis lutea extract (TL) in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) to create a combination (NLC-TL) with enhanced physicochemical stability, antioxidant activity, SPF efficacy, wound healing capacity, and skin hydration. The particle size and ζ-potential were approximately 100 nm and −50 mV, respectively, and both formulations successfully passed the stability tests. The antioxidant activity, measured via DPPH assay, revealed that NLC-TL achieved the highest free radical scavenging activity across all tested concentrations, indicating a synergistic effect. The incorporation of TL in NLCs maintained the sun protection factor (SPF) of a 2% extract solution (1.53 ± 0.13). The wound healing assay indicated that NLC-TLs significantly enhanced wound closure compared to controls and TL alone. Additionally, skin hydration tests on healthy volunteers revealed that NLC-TLs provided superior and sustained hydration effects. These results highlight NLC-TLs’ potential as a multifunctional topical agent for cosmetic and therapeutic applications. Full article

A current trend in healthcare research is to discover multifunctional compounds, able to interact with multiple biological targets, in order to simplify multi-drug therapies and improve patient compliance. The aim of this work was to outline the growing demand for innovative multifunctional compounds, achieved through the synthesis, characterisation and SAR evaluation of a series of 2-styrylbenzothiazole derivatives. The six synthesised compounds were studied for their potential as photoprotective, antioxidant, antiproliferative, and anti-inflammatory agents. In order to profile antioxidant activity against various radical species, in vitro DPPH, FRAP and ORAC assays were performed. UV-filtering activity was studied, first in solution and then in formulation (standard O/W sunscreen containing 3% synthesised molecules) before and after irradiation. Compound BZTst6 proved to be photostable, suitable for broad-spectrum criteria, and is an excellent UVA filter. In terms of antioxidant activity, only compound BZTst4 can be considered a promising candidate, due to the potential of the catechol moiety. Both also showed exceptional inhibitory action against the pro-inflammatory enzyme 5-lipoxygenase (LO), with IC₅₀ values in the sub-micromolar range in both activated neutrophils and under cell-free conditions. The results showed that the compounds under investigation are suitable for multifunctional application purposes, underlining the importance of their chemical scaffolding in terms of different biological behaviours. Full article

Rutin, a flavonoid found in various plants, has gained attention for its potential applications in the cosmetic industry due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and potential photoprotective properties. Our review explored the use of rutin (rutoside, 3-O-rutinoside-quercetin) in cosmetics/dermocosmetics, focusing on its physicochemical properties and stability, cutaneous permeability, and efficacy in sunscreen systems, involving in vitro tests and the current state of clinical trials. Rutin’s ability to scavenge free radicals, prevent peroxidation, and reduce vascular fragility makes this flavonoid a promising ingredient for photoprotection. Studies have shown that rutin can enhance the sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreen formulations, especially when combined with organic UV filters. The encapsulation of rutin in nanostructures has also been investigated to improve its applicability. Overall, rutin shows potential as a safe and effective ingredient in cosmetics/dermocosmetics, offering protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation and oxidative stress on the skin, as well as being a feasible strategy for developing environmentally friendly multifunctional sunscreens. Full article

The modern trend in sunscreen products is towards the development of UV filters with multi-functional properties, to provide a broad shielding against ultraviolet radiation, antioxidant activity, and the prevention of skin cancer. Additionally, they should also be safe for humans as well as the environment. The benzimidazole heterocycle is a suitable platform for the development of such multifunctional molecules with potential application in cosmetic formulations, due to their ability to act as both UV protectors and reactive pharmacophores. This review presents for the first time the progress in the synthesis and optimization of benzimidazole compounds as UV sunscreen filters. The modifications to the substitution pattern of the lead compound and structure–activity relationships are discussed, as well as the synthetic approaches for the preparation of 2-substituted benzimidazoles. These aggregated data will be useful in future in the development of modern benzimidazole-based sunscreen. Full article

The recycling of biomass into high-value-added materials requires important developments in research and technology to create a sustainable circular economy. Lignin, as a component of biomass, is a multipurpose aromatic polymer with a significant potential to be used as a renewable bioresource in many fields in which it acts both as promising biopolymer and bioactive compound. This comprehensive review gives brief insights into the recent research and technological trends on the potential of lignin development and utilization. It is divided into ten main sections, starting with an outlook on its diversity; main properties and possibilities to be used as a raw material for fuels, aromatic chemicals, plastics, or thermoset substitutes; and new developments in the use of lignin as a bioactive compound and in nanoparticles, hydrogels, 3D-printing-based lignin biomaterials, new sustainable biomaterials, and energy production and storage. In each section are presented recent developments in the preparation of lignin-based biomaterials, especially the green approaches to obtaining nanoparticles, hydrogels, and multifunctional materials as blends and bio(nano)composites; most suitable lignin type for each category of the envisaged products; main properties of the obtained lignin-based materials, etc. Different application categories of lignin within various sectors, which could provide completely sustainable energy conversion, such as in agriculture and environment protection, food packaging, biomedicine, and cosmetics, are also described. The medical and therapeutic potential of lignin-derived materials is evidenced in applications such as antimicrobial, antiviral, and antitumor agents; carriers for drug delivery systems with controlled/targeting drug release; tissue engineering and wound healing; and coatings, natural sunscreen, and surfactants. Lignin is mainly used for fuel, and, recently, studies highlighted more sustainable bioenergy production technologies, such as the supercapacitor electrode, photocatalysts, and photovoltaics. Full article