Search Results (17)

This article documents the widespread absence of sessile species in bedrock intertidal habitats at the head of the St. Lawrence Estuary, a large macrotidal estuary located in eastern Canada. Extensive observations revealed that no seaweeds or sessile invertebrates occurred anywhere (including cracks and crevices) on substrate areas that become exposed to the air during low tides. Only one sessile species, a green filamentous alga, was found submerged in tidepools. The lack of truly marine sessile species is likely explained by the very low water salinity of this coast, while the absence of sessile freshwater species on intertidal substrates outside of tidepools likely responds to a combination of oligohaline conditions during high tides and daily exposures to the air during low tides, which freshwater species are typically not adapted to. Influences of winter ice scour and coastal suspended sediments are likely secondary. Experimental research could unravel the interactive effects of these abiotic stressors. Overall, this “intertidal desert” could be a useful model system to further explore the boundaries of life on our planet. Full article

Building shoreline position databases able to capture event- to centennial-scale coastal changes is critical for scientists to improve knowledge of past coastal dynamics and predict future changes. Thanks to the commissioning of several satellites acquiring recurrent high-resolution optical images over coastal areas, coastal scientists have developed methods for detecting the shoreline position from satellite images in most parts of the world. These methods use image band analyses to delineate the waterline and require post-processing to produce time-consistent satellite-derived shorelines. However, the detection accuracy generally decreases with increasing tidal range. This work investigates an alternative approach for meso- and macrotidal coasts, which relies on the delineation of the boundary between dry and wet sand surfaces. The method was applied to the high-energy meso-macrotidal km-scale Cap Ferret sand spit, SW France, which has undergone large and contrasted shoreline changes over the last decades. Comparisons with topographic surveys conducted at Cap Ferret between 2014 and 2020 have shown that the raw satellite-derived wet/dry line reproduces well the mean high water shoreline, with an overall bias of 1.7 m, RMSE of 20.2 m, and R2 of 0.86. Building on this, the shoreline variability at Cap Ferret was investigated over the 1984–2021 period. Results have evidenced an alongshore gradient in the dominant modes of variability in the last 2 km of the sand spit. Near the tip, the shoreline has chronically retreated on the decadal scale at about 8.4 m/year and has been strongly affected on the interannual scale by the onset and migration of shoreline undulations having a wavelength of 500–1200 m and a cross-shore amplitude of 100–200 m. Some 3 km away from the sand spit extremity, the shoreline has been relatively stable in the long term, with a dominance of seasonal and interannual variability. This work brings new arguments for using the wet/dry line to monitor shoreline changes from spatial imagery at meso- and macrotidal sandy coasts. Full article

Abstract: Tidal flats are dynamic coastal ecosystems continually reshaped by natural processes and human activities. This study investigates the application of Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis to the long-term profile evolution of tidal flats along the Jiansan Bend of the Qiantang River Estuary, China. By applying EOF analysis to profiles observed from 1984 to 2023, this study identifies dominant modes of variability and their spatial and temporal characteristics, offering insights into the complex sediment transport and morphological evolution processes. EOF analysis helps unravel the complex interactions between natural and anthropogenic factors shaping tidal flats, with the first three eigenfunctions accounting for over 90% of the observed variance. The first spatial eigenfunction captures the primary trend, while the subsequent two eigenfunctions reveal secondary and tertiary modes of variability. A conceptual model developed in this study elucidates the interplay between hydrodynamic forces and morphological changes, highlighting the rotation and oscillation of tidal flat profiles in response to seasonal variations in hydrological conditions. The findings emphasize the effectiveness of EOF analysis in capturing significant geomorphological processes and underscore its potential in enhancing the understanding of tidal flat dynamics, thereby informing more effective management and conservation strategies for these critical coastal environments. Full article

A numerical model integrating tides, waves, and surges can accurately evaluate the surge height (SH) risks of tropical cyclones. Furthermore, incorporating the external forces exerted by the storm’s wind field can help to accurately reproduce the SH. However, the lack of long-term typhoon best track (BT) data degrades the SH evaluations of past events. Moreover, archived BT data (BTD) for older typhoons contain less information than recent typhoon BTD. Thus, herein, the wind field structure, specifically its relationship with the central air pressure, maximum wind speed, and wind radius, are augmented. Wind formulae are formulated with empirically adjusted radii and the maximum gradient wind speed is correlated with the central pressure. Furthermore, the process is expanded to four quadrants through regression analyses using historical asymmetric typhoon advisory data. The final old typhoon BTs are converted to a pseudo automated tropical cyclone forecasting format for consistency. Validation tests of the SH employing recent BT and reconstructed BT (rBT) indicate the importance of the nonlinear interactions of tides, waves, and surges for the macrotidal west and microtidal south coasts of Korea. The expanded wind fields—rBT—based on the historical old BT successfully assess the return periods of the SH. The proposed process effectively increases typhoon population data by incorporating actual storm tracks. Full article

Although concrete abrasion damage is a major maintenance challenge for coastal structures fronted by beaches with hard coarse sediments, there are no readily available field studies that have measured abrasion damage of known concrete mixtures under defined exposure conditions. The objective of this investigation is to evaluate the abrasive exposure conditions of the concrete revetment armour units at Cleveleys on the Fylde coast of the U.K. and examine the feasibility of using terrestrial laser scanning (TLS) to measure concrete abrasion damage in field conditions. It was found that the concrete elements at Cleveleys are exposed to a macro-tidal environment, which experiences significant wave heights that vary from 0.42 to 1.92 m, whilst the peak wave periods range from 3.7 to 6.5 s. The beach sediments have a mean size of 26 mm and are moderately sorted. TLS provides a dense point cloud of abraded surfaces suitable for quantitative assessment of concrete abrasion in the field. Based on the measured abrasion depths and exposure durations, the peak concrete abrasion rates at the site varied from 3.5 to 4.5 mm/year, and severe abrasion was concentrated in the region between mean high-water springs and mean high-water neaps, wherein the highest beach levels were also found during the survey. Finally, the abraded surfaces exhibited a polished texture with no visible craters; thus, the mechanism of concrete material loss was by grinding/polishing due to rolling/sliding sediments. Full article

Beach slope is a critical parameter to, e.g., beach safety, wave reflection at the coast and longshore transport rate. However, it is usually considered as a time-invariant and profile-average parameter. Here, we apply a state-of-the-art equilibrium model to hindcast beach slope variability from the time scales of days to years at the high-energy meso-macrotidal sandy beach of Truc Vert, southwest France. We use 9 years of bimonthly beach surveys to compute beach slope time series at different elevations. Results show that beach slope exhibits an equilibrium response with contrasting behaviors along two distinct areas of the beach profile. From 0 to 2 m above mean sea level, which is located under the berm crest, a slope response predominantly at the storm time scale is observed. The beach slope steepens under low energy waves, with the equilibrium model explaining up to 40% of the observed beach slope variability. In contrast, from 2.5 to 4 m above mean sea level, which is above the berm crest, the beach slope steepens under high-energy waves. Within this region of the beach profile, the response time scale increases upwards from seasonal (~2.5 m) to seasonal (~4 m), with the model explaining up to 65% of the observed beach slope variability. Such behaviors are found to be enforced by the berm dynamics developing from the end of the winter to early autumn, providing new perspectives to model and predict beach slope on sandy beaches. Full article

Estuaries along the Amazonian coast are subjected to both a macrotidal regime and seasonally high fluvial discharge, both of which generate complex circulation. Furthermore, the Amazon River Plume (ARP) influences coastal circulation and suspended sediment concentrations (SSCs). The Gurupi estuary, located south of the mouth of the Amazon River, is relatively unstudied. This study evaluates how the Gurupi estuary dynamics respond to seasonal discharge and the varying influence of the ARP using cross-sectional and longitudinal surveys of morphology, hydrodynamics, and sediment transport. The Gurupi was classified as a tide-dominated estuary based on morphology and mean hydrodynamic conditions. However, the estuary was only partially mixed during both the wet and dry seasons. The tides propagated asymmetrically and hypersynchronously, with flood dominance during the dry season and ebb dominance during the rainy season. Seasonal variations of the ARP did not significantly affect the hydrodynamic structure of the lower Gurupi estuary. Estuarine turbidity maxima (ETM) were observed in both seasons, although the increase in fluvial discharge during the wet season attenuated and shifted the ETM seaward. Little sediment was delivered to the estuary by the river, and the SSCs were higher at the mouth in both seasons. Sediment was strongly imported during the dry season by tidal asymmetry. The morphology, hydrodynamics, and sediment dynamics all highlight the importance of considering both fluvial discharge and coastal influences on estuaries along the Amazon coast. Full article

The Amazon Macrotidal Mangrove Coast contains the most extensive and continuous mangrove belt globally, occupying an area of ~6500 km² and accounting for 4.2% of global mangroves. The tallest and densest mangrove forests in the Amazon occur on the Bragança Peninsula. However, road construction that occurred in 1973 caused significant mangrove degradation in the area. A spatial-temporal analysis (1986–2019) based on optical, Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR), drone images, and altimetric data obtained by photogrammetry and validated by a topographic survey were carried out to understand how the construction of a road led to the death of mangroves. The topographic data suggested that this road altered the hydrodynamical flow, damming tidal waters. This process killed at least 4.3 km² of mangrove trees. Nevertheless, due to natural mangrove recolonization, the area exhibiting degraded mangrove health decreased to ~2.8 km² in 2003 and ~0.73 km² in 2019. Climatic extreme events such as “El Niño” and “La Niña” had ephemeral control over the mangrove degradation/regeneration. In contrast, the relative sea-level rise during the last several decades caused long-term mangrove recolonization, expanding mangrove areas from lower to higher tidal flats. Permanently flooded depressions in the study area, created by the altered hydrodynamical flow due to the road, are unlikely to be recolonized by mangroves unless connections are re-established between these depressions with drainage on the Caeté estuary through pipes or bridges to prevent water accumulation between the road and depressions. To minimize impacts on mangroves, this road should have initially been designed to cross mangrove areas on the highest tidal flats and to skirt the channel headwaters to avoid interruption of regular tidal flow. Full article

Coasts are continually changing and remote sensing from satellite has the potential to both map and monitor coastal change at multiple scales. This study aims to assess the application of shorelines extracted from Multi-Spectral Imagery (MSI) and Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) from publicly available satellite imagery to map and capture sub-annual to inter-annual shoreline variability. This is assessed at three macro-tidal study sites along the coastline of England, United Kingdom (UK): estuarine, soft cliff environment, and gravel pocket-beach. We have assessed the accuracy of MSI-derived lines against ground truth datum tideline data and found that the satellite derived lines have the tendency to be lower (seaward) on the Digital Elevation Model than the datum-tideline. We have also compared the metric of change derived from SAR lines differentiating between ascending and descending orbits. The spatial and temporal characteristics extracted from SAR lines via Principal Component Analysis suggested that beach rotation is captured within the SAR dataset for descending orbits but not for the ascending ones in our study area. The present study contributes to our understanding of a poorly known aspect of using coastlines derived from publicly available MSI and SAR satellite missions. It outlines a quantitative approach to assess their mapping accuracy with a new non-foreshore method. This allows the assessment of variability on the metrics of change using the Open Digital Shoreline Analysis System (ODSAS) method and to extract complex spatial and temporal information using Principal Component Analysis (PCA) that is transferable to coastline evolution assessments worldwide. Full article

In the west coast of Korea (WCK), macro-tidal environments with wide tidal flats yield distinctive characteristics such as recursive tidal currents and tidal asymmetry. Here, we proposed an efficient search and rescue (SAR) computation method for WCK conditions (where bottom shapes affect nearshore sticking) using a finely resolved wet–dry circulation model. A random-walk particle tracking module (PTM) was applied to an unstructured finite element model to provide the SAR information needed to mitigate the consequences of marine leisure accidents. To capture the unique external forcing characteristics affecting the nearshore SAR case, sensitivity tests, which considered the characteristics of human bodies in particle representation, were performed on an idealized basin under typical external forcing. Furthermore, the effects of surface drag were included to represent real conditions more accurately. Our simulations showed that the accuracy of initial accident times for in situ mannequin floating tests (where several initial locations and times of accidents were used) directly affected the accuracy and effectiveness of SAR missions. However, to understand and predict the missing floating person in real time, additional intensive field experiments are required that account for the local geomorphological characteristics, external real-time temporal tides, and wind forcing incorporating extreme weather conditions. Full article

Intertidal bars are common features of sandy beaches in meso- and macro-tidal environments, yet their behaviour under storm impact and subsequent recovery remain poorly documented. Intensive surveys provide valuable information; however, it takes time to process the vast amount of data. This study presents the morphological response of a multibarred macro-tidal beach along the Belgian coast after a severe storm that happened on 8–12 February 2020, and to develop and apply an oPen-source Raster prOcessing Toolbox for invEstigation Coast intertidal bar displacemenT (PROTECT) in Python for automated bar extraction. This toolbox was applied to the digital surface models of pre- and post-storm airborne LiDAR surveys of a multibarred intertidal beach. The PROTECT toolbox is capable of detecting the position and elevation of intertidal bars accurately. The uncertainty in the elevation characteristics of the bars induces an error in the elevation dimension of 0.10 m. Using the toolbox, the results showed that the intertidal bars changed in term of variations in bar number, dimensions and shape across the storm event. Overall, the storm significantly eroded the dune and the upper-beach zone with a sand loss equivalent elevation decrease of −0.14 m. This was followed by a continuous and full recovery after 9 months under fair weather conditions. In contrast, the sand budget in the intertidal zone did not change over the entire monitoring period although the bars showed significant morphological change. Applying the PROTECT toolbox on high-resolution 3D topographic datasets allows to increase the temporal mapping resolution of intertidal bars from long-term (years) to short (storm events) time scales. Similar assessments at locations worldwide would allow the improvement of our knowledge on the morphodynamical role of multibarred beaches and to forecast their evolution, thus contributing to manage future storm response and the progressively accelerating sea level rise. Full article

The wide spatial and temporal coverage of remotely sensing images is an essential asset to analyze the morphological behaviour of fast-changing coastal environments such as estuarine systems. This paper investigates the reliability of intertidal topography mapping around the Authie Bay, a macrotidal estuarine system located on the northern coast of France. A Satellite-Derived Topography technique is developed by relating the green band reflectance of Sentinel-2 images to rapid variations in topography. This method is well suited to small sedimentary structures of the coastal zone with a 0.30 to 0.35 m height accuracy of the constructed Digital Elevation Model (DEM). For the more complex estuarine configuration, the waterline method was applied and resulted in the construction of DEMs with a height accuracy of 0.35 to 0.38 m. Video animations and records of Authie meander positions along transects are created from Sentinel-2 and Landsat satellite archives (1984–2020). These materials allow to highlight a sedimentation phase at the east side of the spit since 2015. It constrains the main channel towards the eastern bank, thus promoting coastal erosion. The monitoring of a severe erosion phase throughout 2019 shows a 130 m retreat of the coastline. Topographic map differentiation led to the detection of a sedimentation anomaly upstream of the bay, probably linked to this erosion event. Full article

Wave dynamics contribute significantly to coastal hazards and were thus investigated at Vougot Beach by simulating both historical and projected future waves considering climate change impacts. The historical period included a major storm event. This period was projected to the future using three globally averaged sea level rise (SLR) scenarios for 2100, and combined SLR and wave climate scenarios for A1B, A2, and B1 emissions paths of the IPCC. The B1 wave climate predicts an increase in the occurrence of storm events. The simulated waves in all scenarios showed larger relative changes at the beach than in the nearshore area. The maximum increase of wave energy for the combined SLR and wave scenarios was 95%, while only 50% for the SLR-only scenarios. The effective bed shear stress from waves and currents showed different spatial variability than that of the wave height, emphasizing the importance of interactions between nearshore waves and currents. Increases in the effective bed shear stress (combined scenarios: up to 190%, and SLR-only scenarios: 35%) indicate that the changes in waves and currents will likely have significant impacts on the nearshore sediment transport. This work emphasizes that combined SLR and future wave climate scenarios need to be used to evaluate future changes in local hydrodynamics and their impacts. These results provide preliminary insights into potential future wave dynamics at Vougot Beach under different climate change scenarios. Further studies are necessary to generalize the results by investigating the wave dynamics during storm events with different hydrodynamical conditions and to evaluate potential changes in sediment transport and morphological evolution due to climate change. Full article

Barred macrotidal beaches are affected by continuous horizontal displacements of different hydrodynamic zones associated with wave transformation (shoaling, breaker and surf zones) due to significant tide-induced water level changes. A series of wave and current meters, complemented by a video imagery system, were deployed on a barred beach of northern France during a 6-day experiment in order to characterize the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced processes across the beach. Wave and current spectral analyses and analyses of cross-shore current direction and asymmetry resulted in the identification of distinct hydrodynamic processes, including the development of infragravity waves and offshore-directed flows in the breaker and surf zones. Our results revealed a high spatial variability in the hydrodynamic processes across the beach, related to the bar-trough topography, as well as significant variations in the directions and intensity of cross-shore currents at fixed locations due to the horizontal translation of the different hydrodynamic zones resulting from continuous changes in water level due to tides. Full article

In tide-dominated estuaries, maximum-turbidity zones (MTZs) are common and prominent features, characterized by a peak in suspended-sediment concentration (SSC) associated with estuarine processes. The Brazilian Amazon coast includes many estuaries, experiencing macrotidal conditions. MTZs are expected to occur and are crucial for sediment delivery to the longest continuous mangrove belt of the world. The area is under influence of the Amazon River plume (ARP), the main SSC source, as local rivers do not deliver substantial sediment supply. To assess the processes that allow the ARP to supply sediment to the estuaries and mangrove belt along the Amazon coast, the results from previous individual studies within five Amazon estuaries (Mocajuba, Taperaçu, Caeté, Urumajó and Gurupi) were compared with regards to SSC, salinity, morphology and tidal propagation. This comparison reinforces that these estuaries are subject to similar regional climate and tidal variations, but that their dynamics differ in terms of distance from the Amazon River mouth, importance of the local river sediment source, and morphology of the estuarine setting. The Urumajó, Caeté and Gurupi are hypersynchronous estuaries where perennial, classic MTZs are observed with SSC > 1 g·L⁻¹. This type of estuary results in transport convergence and MTZ formation, which are suggested to be the main processes promoting mud accumulation in the Amazonian estuaries and therefore the main means of mud entrapment in the mangrove belt. The Mocajuba and the Taperaçu estuaries showed synchronous and hyposynchronous processes, respectively, and do not present classic MTZs. In these cases, the proximity to the ARP for the Mocajuba and highly connected tidal channels for the Taperaçu estuary, assure substantial mud supply into these estuaries. This study shows the strong dependence of the estuaries and mangrove belt on sediment supply from the ARP, helping to understand the fate of Amazon River sediments and providing insights into the mechanisms providing sediment to estuaries and mangroves around the world, especially under the influence of big rivers. Full article