Search Results (55)

Seeds of Cucurbitaceae crops represent a promising yet underexplored source of bioactive compounds with potential applications beyond nutrition, particularly in the cosmetics industry. This review examines the seeds of Citrullus lanatus (watermelon), Cucumis melo (melon), and Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin), focusing on their biochemical composition and evaluating their functional value in natural cosmetic development. Although these fruits are widely consumed, industrial processing generates substantial seed by-products that are often discarded. These seeds are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, proteins, carbohydrates, and phytochemicals, positioning them as sustainable raw materials for value-added applications. The incorporation of seed-derived extracts into cosmetic formulations offers multiple skin and hair benefits, including antioxidant activity, hydration, and support in managing conditions such as hyperpigmentation, acne, and psoriasis. They also contribute to hair care by improving oil balance, reducing frizz, and enhancing strand nourishment. However, challenges such as environmental instability and low dermal permeability of seed oils have prompted interest in nanoencapsulation technologies to improve delivery, stability, and efficacy. This review summarizes current scientific findings and highlights the potential of Cucurbitaceae seeds as innovative and sustainable ingredients for cosmetic and personal care applications. Full article

Plasma-activated water (PAW), enriched with reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (RONS), presents oxidative and antimicrobial characteristics with potential in cosmetic applications. This study examined the effects of two PAW formulations—nitrate-rich (PAW-N) and peroxide-rich (PAW-P)—on human hair types classified as straight (Type 1), wavy (Type 2), and coily/kinky (Type 4). The impact of PAW on hair structure and chemistry was evaluated using Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS), UV–Vis spectrophotometry, and physicochemical analyses of the liquids (pH, ORP, conductivity, and TDS). PAW-N, with high nitrate content (~500 mg/L), low pH (2.15), and elevated conductivity (6244 µS/cm), induced significant damage to porous hair types, including disulfide bond cleavage, protein oxidation, and lipid degradation, as indicated by FTIR and EDS data. SEM confirmed severe cuticle disruption. In contrast, PAW-P, containing >25 mg/L of hydrogen peroxide and exhibiting milder acidity and lower ionic strength, caused more localized and controlled oxidation with minimal morphological damage. Straight hair showed greater resistance to both treatments, while coily and wavy hair were more susceptible, particularly to PAW-N. These findings suggest that the formulation and ionic profile of PAW should be matched to hair porosity for safe oxidative treatments, supporting the use of PAW-P as a gentler alternative in hair care technologies. Full article

In recent decades, there has been a marked surge in the development of marine-by-product-derived ingredients for cosmetic applications, driven by the increasing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. Marine animal by-products, particularly those from fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, represent an abundant yet underutilized source of bioactive compounds with notable potential in cosmeceutical innovation. Generated as waste from the fishery and seafood-processing industries, these materials are rich in valuable bioactives, such as chitosan, collagen, peptides, amino acids, fatty acids, polar lipids, lipid-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, pigments, phenolics, and mineral-based substrates like hydroxyapatite. Marine by-product bioactives can be isolated via several extraction methods, and most importantly, green ones. These compounds exhibit a broad spectrum of skin-health-promoting effects, including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, anti-wrinkle, anti-hyperpigmentation, and wound-healing properties. Moreover, applications extend beyond skincare to include hair, nail, and oral care. The present review provides a comprehensive analysis of bioactives obtained from marine mollusks, crustaceans, and fish by-products, emphasizing modern extraction technologies with a focus on green and sustainable approaches. It further explores their mechanisms of action and documented efficacy in cosmetic formulations. Finally, the review outlines current limitations and offers future perspectives for the industrial valorization of marine by-products in functional and environmentally-conscious cosmetic development. Full article

The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also lead to adverse reactions in patients. The aim of our study was to assess the impact of the tolerability of cosmetics used in routine skin care on quality of life in this vulnerable population group through a survey. In addition, information was collected to improve the knowledge of the beneficial effects of cosmetics and the composition recommended. Hospital nurses guided the patients to fill in the surveys, which were done once. The main uses are related to daily hygiene care, photoprotection, and dermo-cosmetic treatment to prevent or at least reduce the skin’s adverse effects. More than 30% (36.36%) of patients perceived undesirable effects or discomfort with the use of cosmetics (27.27% in the facial area, 27.27% in the body and hands, and 22.73% in the scalp and hair). Intolerance was described for some soaps and creams used in the facial area. This study provides additional evidence on perceived tolerance supporting updates of clinical practice guidelines, highlights consolidated knowledge and evidence on the use of cosmetics, as well as new recommendations on the use and composition of cosmetics intended for oncological patients. There is a need for more knowledge about cosmetic ingredients and formulations, including ingredients of concern, such as endocrine disruptors. Full article

The porosity of hair fibers can be modified by chemical and physical damage, influencing their response to cosmetic treatments. To investigate the effect of commonly applied hair care protocols on textured hair, virgin and once-bleached tresses were subjected to multiple cycles of washing, blow-drying while combing, and styling with a hot flat iron, simulating a consumer routine spanning one to six months. Porosity-related properties were evaluated using swelling test, fluorescence, atomic force, and scanning electron microscopies, high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry, and tensile testing. Both chemical and physical processes induced significant changes in the hair’s water permeability, surface topography, and appearance, alongside a reduction in mechanical and thermal properties, indicating substantial structural alterations compared to virgin hair. Increased porosity compared to virgin hair possibly reduced the heat conductivity of bleached hair, leading to less pronounced effects of heat exposure. These findings underscore the damaging potential of routine practices for textured hair and emphasize the need for targeted cosmetic solutions to protect and repair these fibers as part of consumers’ hair care regimens. Full article

Emulsions play a crucial part in the whole beauty and care market, especially in skin and hair care domains where, due to their extraordinary versatility, they represent most of the finite products. Being thermodynamically unstable, one key aspect of their formulation is the use of stabilizers that ensure a long lifetime under different conditions. In this framework a key role is related to rheology modifiers, which include all those raw ingredients added to achieve, among others, desirable inflow characteristics that would not be possible to gain in their absence. In this review, strong attention was dedicated to different polymers and formulation strategies to understand the key role of these ingredients, widely used in emulsion-based cosmetics formulations. Full article

Emollients are multifunctional, water-insoluble ingredients used in cosmetic products. This study aims to define the chemical and physical characteristics and test the activities of a new ester-based emollient, Sharofeel DS (DS), in comparison with other commonly used emollients (fatty alcohols, esters, and silicone emollients). The new entity was synthesized from naturally derived reactants and designed to be utilized in different cosmetic applications, such as skin care, hair care, and makeup. Methods: The emollient was characterized on the basis of its physical properties (Ultraviolet/Infrared (UV/IR) analysis, density, dynamic viscosity, refractive index, surface tension, and contact angle), calorimetric properties by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and differential scanning calorimetry analysis (DSC), viscoelastic properties as is and in emulsion, and toxicity tests. According to the results obtained, DS demonstrated density (0.881 g/mL) and viscosity (86 cPs) values comparable to fatty alcohol emollients, with a refractive index (1.457) comparable to fatty alcohol and ester-based emollients and a surface tension (22.53 mN/m ± 0.11 mN/m) similar to the ester-based ones. It proved stable below 308 °C and capable of reducing the loss of internal water from hair strands (−7.5% w/w). Lastly, the toxicity tests proved that DS is safe for topical skincare, haircare, and makeup applications. Full article

Hair care products that have oxidative hair dye ingredients have been widely used to permanently change hair color for the characteristic and younger appearance of people and/or their companion animals. In the European Union and the Republic of Korea, these ingredients have been carefully used or prohibited for cosmetic products according to their genotoxic potential. There is a growing demand for reliable quantification methods to monitor oxidative hair dye ingredients in hair care products. However, accurately quantifying oxidative dyes in cosmetic samples is challenging due to their high reactivity and chemical instability under both basic and ambient conditions. For this reason, for the quantification methods, elaborate sample preparation procedures should be accompanied by chemical derivatization to avoid chemical reactions between hair dye ingredients, before instrumental analysis. Therefore, this study utilized a gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS) method combined with in situ chemical derivatization to quantify 26 oxidative hair dye ingredients in hair care products. In situ derivatization using acetic anhydride provided the characteristic [M-CH₂CO]⁺ ions at m/z (M-42), produced by the loss of a ketene from the hair dye ingredient derivatives. These characteristic ions can be used to establish a selective ion monitoring (SIM) mode of GC-MS. The established method was successfully applied to hair dye products (n = 13) and hair coloring shampoos (n = 12). Most products contained unintended hair dye ingredients including catechol without labeling. It was cautiously speculated that these unintended hair dye ingredients might be caused by biodegradation due to various enzymes in natural product extracts. This study presents a reliable GC-MS method with in situ derivatization to quantify 26 oxidative hair dye ingredients in hair care products, addressing challenges related to their chemical instability. This method is crucial for public health and regulatory compliance. Full article

Background: Multiphoton tomography (MPT) is a femtosecond laser imaging technique that enables high-resolution virtual biopsies of human skin. It provides a non-invasive method for analyzing cellular metabolism, structural changes, and responses to cosmetic products, providing insights into cell–cosmetic interactions. This review explores the principles, historical development, and key applications of MPT in cosmetic research. Methods: The latest MPT device combines five modalities: (i) two-photon fluorescence: visualizes cells, elastin, and cosmetic ingredients; (ii) second harmonic generation (SHG): maps the collagen network; (iii) fluorescence lifetime imaging (FLIM): differentiates eumelanin from pheomelanin and evaluates the impact of cosmetics on cellular metabolic activity; (iv) reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM): images cell membranes and cosmetic particles; and (v) white LED imaging for dermoscopy. Results: MPT enables in-depth examination of extracellular matrix changes, cellular metabolism, and melanin production. It identifies skin responses to cosmetic products and tracks the intratissue distribution of sunscreen nanoparticles, nano- and microplastics, and other cosmetic components. Quantitative measurements, such as the elastin-to-collagen ratio, provide insights into anti-aging effects. Conclusions: MPT is a powerful in vivo imaging tool for the cosmetic industry. Its superior resolution and metabolic information facilitate the evaluation of product efficacy and support the development of personalized skincare solutions. Full article

Osmolytes, cellular compounds that maintain osmotic balance and integrity, are gaining attention in cosmetics for their ability to modulate protein folding and stability. Their incorporation into hair and skin care products enhances hydration and strengthens cellular structures. As the cosmetic industry seeks innovative and effective ingredients, osmolytes remain promising candidates for further advancing technologies. This study evaluates the protective effects of four osmolytes—betaine, erythritol, glycine, and isopentyldiol—on bovine serum albumin (BSA), as a substrate, under stressors such as UV irradiation, extreme temperatures, pH changes, surfactants, and oxidative stress. Protein stability was assessed via fluorescence emission. Only betaine at 0.50% w/w provided significant protection under oxidative stress, while glycine was the most effective osmolyte under basic and acidic pH and UVC radiation. Betaine showed potential in mitigating cold-induced stress but increased stress under UVA radiation, highlighting its condition-specific effects. The study emphasizes the need for comprehensive screening and synergistic testing of osmolytes to optimize cosmetic formulations for diverse stressors. Among the tested osmolytes, glycine is a promising candidate for skin and hair care products, though further research is needed. These findings provide a rapid, cost-effective method to evaluate osmolytes’ potential, offering valuable insights for cosmetic formulation. Full article

Background: Coffea arabica, commonly known as Arabica coffee, has garnered attention in recent years for its potential applications in dermato-cosmetic formulations. This review aims to critically evaluate the emerging role of Coffea arabica as an active ingredient in skin care products, focusing on its bioactive compounds derived from both the leaves and beans, mechanisms of action, and efficacy in dermatological applications. A comparative analysis between the bioactive profiles of the leaves and beans is also presented to elucidate their respective contributions to dermato-cosmetic efficacy. Results: This review synthesizes findings from various studies that highlight the presence of key bioactive compounds in Coffea arabica, including caffeine, chlorogenic acids, and flavonoids. Notably, the leaves exhibit a higher concentration of certain phenolic compounds compared to the beans, suggesting unique properties that may enhance skin health. These compounds have demonstrated significant anticellulite, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-aging, antibacterial, and moisturizing properties. Discussion: This article delves into the biochemical pathways through which bioactive compounds derived from both the leaves and beans of Coffea arabica exert their beneficial effects on skin and hair health. Furthermore, this review highlights the growing trend of incorporating natural ingredients in cosmetic formulations and the consumer demand for products with scientifically substantiated benefits. Conclusions: The findings of this review underscore the potential of Coffea arabica as a valuable active ingredient in dermato-cosmetic applications. Its multifaceted bioactivity suggests that it can contribute significantly to skin health and cosmetic efficacy. Future research should focus on clinical trials to further validate these benefits and explore optimal formulation strategies for enhanced delivery and stability in cosmetic products. Full article

The addition of an extract to an emulsion is intended to improve its fragrance and care qualities. Green tea is a beverage known all over the world. It is tasty and has beneficial effects on human health due to its high polyphenol content. The compounds present in this variety of tea have also made it an interesting cosmetic ingredient. The polyphenols contained in green tea have antioxidant properties and can delay the ageing process in human skin. Various preparations with this ingredient can be found on the market—from creams to hair care products. Making one’s own cosmetics is also a trend. In the following study, three creams containing green tea extracts from three different manufacturers were prepared, and the total polyphenol (TP) contents, the phenolic profile of the extracts used and the antioxidant activity of these preparations were examined using two methods: DPPH^• and ABTS^•+ cationic radicals. The study showed that the antioxidant activity of the glycerin–water extracts measured by the selected methods was higher than that of the oil extract. Among the creams, the product with green tea extract from Firm 2 (glycerin–water extract) showed the best antioxidant properties. Full article

Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.), native to Southern Asia, stands out for its significant nutritional and therapeutic properties. Its adaptability and resilience have enabled its global cultivation, highlighting the necessity for comprehensive scientific research to fully harness its potential. Rich in bioactive compounds like flavonoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, polysaccharides, tannins, and saponins, jujube extracts exhibit notable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and wound healing properties. These qualities have made jujube a popular ingredient in various skin and hair care formulations. The versatility of jujube extracts, along with their synergy with other herbal active ingredients, enables the development of targeted personal care solutions. These solutions address a range of concerns, including anti-aging, UV protection, brightening, moisturizing, and calming effects, as well as promoting hair health. Despite its potential, research on the cosmetic applications of Z. jujuba is still in its early stages, with only one clinical trial to date focusing on its skin-brightening effects. This review aims to consolidate the current and emerging research on the applications of jujube in conventional and medical cosmetics, highlighting its potential in enhancing skin and hair wellness. By providing a comprehensive overview, it seeks to pave the way for further studies and innovations in utilizing jujube for personal care. Full article

The Polish market of cosmetics is highly rich in different types of hair care preparations. A great number of Polish and foreign cosmetic companies and brands mean that finding care products ideal for a given person should be trouble-free. Unfortunately, a wide selection is both an advantage and a problem when a customer is doubtful about how a given cosmetic can work and what an individual’s hair really needs. Reading the composition of cosmetics, the potential user can recognize the needs of their skin or hair, which affects taking more conscious care and choosing the right cosmetics with more attention. This article assesses which ingredients and types of ingredients are present in the largest number of preparations and in the highest positions in the composition. This is a comparison of ingredients present in the largest amounts between four groups of hair cosmetics: care products with washing properties (shampoos), care products without washing properties (conditioners), preparations that are aqueous solutions (water cosmetics), and preparations that are not aqueous solutions (waterless cosmetics). It was revealed that the vast majority of all high-ranking ingredients are substances responsible for the functionality of hair cosmetics: surfactants, rheology regulators, substances responsible for foaming properties, emulsifiers, and solvents. The huge number of substances that can be used in hair products imposes the fact that the ingredients of the highest rank will be substances with many applications and, at the same time, are those that form the base of the cosmetic. Full article

Hair cosmetics are in fashion. Numerous products are commonly used in combination. Frequent allergens are present in hair cosmetics, which, with almost daily use, increase the risk of sensitization. Familiarity with the clinical distribution of the eczematous rash is necessary to seriously consider patch testing. Not all the products on the market are haptens. It is necessary to know how to patch your own products. When avoidance of the allergen is not possible, new treatments are evaluated to combat allergic contact dermatitis, mainly of the occupational type. In this manuscript, a complete and practical review of the main allergens and contact sources of hair cosmetic origin has been carried out. Full article