Search Results (17)

Wave deformation and sediment transport nearest the shoreside are among the main reasons for sand erosion and beach profile changes. In particular, identifying the areas of incident-wave breaking and longshore current generation parallel to the shoreline is important for understanding the morphological changes of coastal beaches. In this study, a two-phase incompressible flow model along with a sandy sloping topography was employed to investigate the wave deformation and longshore current generation areas in a circular wave basin model. The finite volume method (FVM) was implemented to discretize the governing equations in cylindrical coordinates, the volume-of-fluid method (VOF) was adopted to differentiate the air–water interfaces in the control cells, and the zonal embedded grid technique was employed for grid generation in the cylindrical computational domain. The water surface elevations and velocity profiles were measured in different wave conditions, and the measurements showed that the maximum water levels per wave were high and varied between cases, as well as between cross-sections in a single case. Additionally, the mean water levels were lower in the adjacent positions of the approximated wave-breaking zones. The wave-breaking positions varied between cross-sections in a single case, with the incident-wave height, mean water level, and wave-breaking position measurements indicating the influence of downstream flow variation in each cross-section on the sloping topography. The cross-shore velocity profiles became relatively stable over time, while the longshore velocity profiles predominantly moved in the alongshore direction, with smaller fluctuations, particularly during the same time period and in measurement positions near the wave-breaking zone. The computed velocity profiles also varied between cross-sections, and for the velocity profiles along the cross-shore and longshore directions nearest the wave-breaking areas where the downstream flow had minimal influence, it was presumed that there was longshore-current generation in the sloping topography nearest the shoreside. The computed results were compared with the experimental results and we observed similar characteristics for wave profiles in the same wave period case in both models. In the future, further investigations can be conducted using the presented circular wave basin model to investigate the oblique wave deformation and longshore current generation in different sloping and wave conditions. Full article

This study presents an in-depth analysis of the dynamic beach landscapes of Hainan Island, which is located at the southernmost tip of China. Home to over a hundred natural and predominantly sandy beaches, Hainan Island confronts significant challenges posed by frequent marine natural disasters and human activities. Addressing the urgent need for long-term studies of beach dynamics, this research involved the use of CoastSat to extract and analyze shoreline data from 20 representative beaches and calculate the slopes of 119 sandy beaches around the island for the period from 2013 to 2023. The objective was to delineate the patterns of beach evolution that contribute to the prevention of sediment loss, the mitigation of coastal hazards, and the promotion of sustainable coastal zone management. By employing multi-source remote sensing imagery and the CoastSat tool, this investigation validated slope measurements across selected beaches, demonstrating consistency between the calculated and actual distances despite minor anomalies. The effective use of the finite element solution (FES) in the 2014 global tidal model for tidal corrections further aligned the coastlines with the mean shoreline, underscoring CoastSat’s utility in enabling precise coastal studies. The analysis revealed significant seasonal variations in shoreline positions, with approximately half of the monitored sites showing a seaward progression in summer and a retreat in winter, which were linked to variations in wave height. The southern beaches exhibited distinct seasonal variations, which contrasted with the general trend due to differing wave impacts. The western and southern shores showed erosion, while the northern and eastern shores displayed accretion. The calculated slopes across the island indicated that the southern beaches had steeper slopes, while the northern areas exhibited more pronounced slope variations due to wave and tidal impacts. These findings highlight the critical role of integrated coastal management and erosion control strategies in safeguarding Hainan Island’s beaches. By understanding the mechanisms driving seasonal and regional shoreline changes, effective measures can be developed to mitigate the impacts of erosion and enhance the resilience of coastal ecosystems amidst changing environmental conditions. This research provides a foundational basis for future efforts aimed at the sustainable development and utilization of coastal resources on Hainan Island. Full article

Historical buildings are constructed using a variety of materials, including stone, wood, and combinations thereof. These structures serve as tangible links to the past and are of great importance to cultural heritage, thus necessitating their protection. Throughout history, these buildings and materials have been exposed to various environmental conditions, including climate, wind, humidity, and seismic activity. This study focused on the Florya Atatürk Marine Mansion, Istanbul, a coastal structure situated at the shoreline and subject to the effects of wind, moisture, and sea salt. The mansion is primarily constructed from pinewood, and due to the complexity of the material salt can cause deterioration that poses a threat to the building’s cultural and historical value. With a focus on seasonal variations, this study explored the relationship between the mechanical properties and monetary values of the pinewood materials used in the waterfront mansion. To achieve this, samples were naturally aged in a saline environment by the sea and subjected to tensile and bending tests at the end of each season. The resulting mechanical properties were compared to computer simulations using finite element methods. By subtracting the specific depreciation rate of the material at the end of each season, a relationship between mechanical properties and monetary value was calculated and presented in graphical form. It was found that the material’s mechanical properties varied throughout the year, affecting its monetary value in different ways. Therefore, optimal maintenance should be provided before January to preserve the economic value of the material, considering temperature change, exposure to direct sunlight, and humidity, which have direct effects on the front and back parts of the building. Full article

An existing Boussinesq wave model, solved in a hybrid format of the finite-difference method (FDM) and finite-volume method (FVM), with good merits of stability and shock-capturing, was used as the wave driver to simulate the beach evolution under nearshore wave action. By coupling the boundary layer model, the sand transport model, and the terrain updating model, the beach evolution model is established. Based on the coupled model, the interaction process between sandbars and waves was simulated, reproducing the process of the original sand bars diminishing, new sandbars creating, and finally disappearing. At the same time, the formation and movement process of sand bars under solitary and regular waves are numerically simulated, in the breaking zone, the water bottom has a larger shear stress, which promotes the sediment activation, transport and erosion formation, and near the breaking point, the decrease of sand-carrying capacity is the main reason for the formation of sandbars, the numerical model can accurately describe the changes in the shoreline profile under wave action. Full article

Aquifer overexploitation in coastal aquifers has led to seawater intrusion that causes severe salinization effects on the groundwater system. The most widespread method for assessing groundwater vulnerability to seawater intrusion, the dominant cause of salinization in coastal aquifers, is the GALDIT method, with numerous applications globally. The present study proposes a modified version of the GALDIT method (GALDIT-Ι) to evaluate the vulnerability of salinization, including its potential additional sources. Both methods have been applied to Rhodope coastal aquifer, an intensively cultivated agricultural area subject to multiple salinization sources. The basic modifications of the proposed GALDIT-I method include different weighting factors and modification of classes for critical parameters, the use of a different indicator (TDS) for the estimation of the Impact factor and, overall, the address of the concept of groundwater salinization instead of seawater intrusion only. The differences in the results of the two methods were significant, as the modified version exhibited a more finite and realistic vulnerability capture, according to the area’s existing hydrogeological and hydrogeochemical knowledge. The original GALDIT method showed an area of nearly 80% as medium vulnerable with very limited spatial deviations. On the other hand, the proposed modified GALDIT method depicted high vulnerability hotspots away from the shoreline, indicating various salinity sources. The validation of the modified method showed that nearly 80% of the sampling points present very good to perfect match between the salinity assessment and the concentration of Cl⁻, indicating the successful validation of the method. Overall, the GALDIT-I method facilitated groundwater vulnerability assessment to salinization more accurately and exhibited a more discrete spatial assessment, thus, it could be regarded as a promising proactive tool for groundwater management and decision-making. Full article

Many post-disaster surveys have reported on the natural function and effectiveness of fringing reef in preventing the shoreline from the inundation caused by severe weather events. Prior studies mainly focus on the wave propagating, transforming, and breaking on the fringing reefs by assuming that ocean waves propagate in an ideal environment where the wind is absent. However, in the real severe ocean environment, huge surges and waves always occur simultaneously with the strong winds. The wave profile can be easily reshaped by the strong winds, which can also significantly affect the way that ocean waves propagate on the fringing reefs. Therefore, it is necessary to study the hydrodynamics of fringing reefs under the combined action of wind and waves. To study the influences of the onshore wind on the hydrodynamics of solitary wave on the fringing reef, the finite volume method is applied to solve the governing equations of two-phase incompressible flow and a high-resolution numerical wind-wave tank is established in this study. Effects of several main factors are analyzed in detail. The research results show that the onshore wind can significantly increase the maximum wave runup height (maximum by 38.49%) and decrease the wave reflection coefficient of solitary wave (maximum by 8.66%). It is hoped that the research results of this study can enhance the understandings on the hydrodynamics of ocean waves on the fringing reefs during severe weather events. Full article

Vipingo quarry in Kilifi county, Kenya, is one of the quarries supplying coral limestone for limestone manufacturing in the coastal region. Due to its close proximity to the Indian ocean, the semidiurnal ocean tides tend to have an influence on the stability of the quarry slopes adjacent to the shoreline. Finite element numerical analysis using the generalized Hoek–Brown criterion is conducted to assess the stability condition of the slopes followed by slope-angle optimization to determine the safest overall slope angle as well as analyzing the stability of the slopes due to action of varying ocean tides. The optimum overall slope angles for various excavation depths are found to be 52° for 20 m, 46° for 30 m, 42° for 40 m, and 39° for 50 m, which are the same even with varying distance of the slope face from the shoreline. A parametric analysis shows that there is no significant effect of the tides on slope stability for excavations above the water table, but as the quarry gets deeper, the slope stability is affected. A sensitivity factor (ζ) is introduced, being a measure of how much the slope safety factor is reduced as a result of the semidiurnal tidal action. Full article

Analytical solutions for a one-line model for shoreline changes are employed to investigate the formation of two wave-dominated river delta coastlines, along with a small-scale laboratory experiment. Since the present analytical solution can be applied only to a river delta with infinite shorelines, a new analytical solution was developed to consider the effects of lateral boundaries to the evolution of delta coastlines. It was determined that two demarcations represented by the dimensionless times t* can be used to judge whether the lateral boundaries have affected the coastline evolution or not. After the successful application of a new analytical solution to the experimental data, the new analytical solution was applied to predict the formation and deformation of the shorelines of the Ombrone River and Funatsu River deltas. Results obtained from the analysis showed that the new analytical solution can be used to describe well the formation and deformation of finite river-delta shorelines. Based on the two demarcations as represented by the dimensionless time t*, the shorelines of the Ombrone River and Funatsu River deltas are classified as finite shorelines. Full article

This study presents a numerical tool for calculating storm surges from offshore, nearshore, and coastal regions using the finite-difference method, two-way grid-nesting function in time and space, and a moving boundary scheme without any numerical filter adopted. The validation of the solitary wave runup on a circular island showed the perfect matches between the model results and measurements for the free surface elevations and runup heights. After the benchmark problem validation, the 2013 Super Typhoon Haiyan event was selected to showcase the storm surge calculations with coastal inundation and flood depths in Tacloban. The catastrophic storm surges of about 8 m and wider, storm-induced inundation due to the Super Typhoon Haiyan were found in the Tacloban Airport, corresponding to the findings from the field survey. In addition, the anti-clockwise, storm-induced currents were explored inside of Cancabato Bay. Moreover, the effect of the nonlinear advection terms with the fixed and moving shoreline and the parallel efficiency were investigated. By presenting a storm surge model for calculating storm surges, inundation areas, and flood depths with the model validation and case study, this study hopes to provide a convenient and efficient numerical tool for forecasting and disaster assessment under a potential severe tropical storm with climate change. Full article

The erosion of limestone and calcarenite ridges that existed parallel to the Mediterranean shoreline forms the calcareous sand (CS) formation at the surface layer of Egypt’s northern coast. The CS is often combined with broken shells which are considered geotechnically problematic due to their possible crushability and relatively high compressibility. In this research, CS samples collected from a site along the northern coast of Egypt are studied to better understand its behavior under normal and shear stresses. Reconstituted CS specimens with different ratios of broken shells (BS) are also investigated to study the effect of BS ratios on the soil mixture strength behavior. The strength is evaluated using laboratory direct-shear and one-dimensional compression tests (oedometer test). The CS specimens are not exposed to significant crushability even under relatively high-stress levels. In addition, a 3D finite element analysis (FEA) is presented in this paper to study the degradation offshore pile capacity in CS having different percentages of BS. The stress–strain results using oedometer tests are compared with a numerical model, and it gave identical matching for most cases. The effects of pile diameter and embedment depth parameters are then studied for the case study on the northern coast. Three different mixing ratios of CS and BS have been used, CS + 10% BS, CS + 30% BS, and CS + 50% BS, which resulted in a decrease of the ultimate vertical compression pile load capacity by 8.8%, 15%, and 16%, respectively. Full article

Beach erosion is a natural phenomenon that is not compensated by depositing fresh material on the shoreline while transporting sand away from the shoreline. There are three phenomena that have a serious influence on the coastal structure, such as increases in flooding, accretion, and water levels. In addition, the prediction of coastal evolution is used to investigate the topography of the beach. In this research, we present a one-dimensional mathematical model of shoreline evolution, and the parameters that influence this model are described on a monthly basis over a period of one year. Consideration is given to the wave crest impact model for evaluating the impact of the wave crest at that stage. It focuses on the evolution of the shoreline in environments where groins are installed on both sides. The initial and boundary condition setting techniques are proposed by the groins and their environmental parameters. The non-uniform influence of the crest of the breaking wave is so often considered. We then used the traditional forward time centered space technique and the Saulyev finite difference technique to estimate the monthly evolution of the shoreline for each year. Full article

The mechanisms that control estuarine sediment transport are complicated due to the interaction between riverine flows, tidal currents, waves, and wave-driven currents. In the past decade, severe seabed erosion and shoreline retreat along the sandy coast of western Taiwan have raised concerns regarding the sustainability of coastal structures. In this study, ADCPs (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) and turbidity meters were deployed at the mouth of the Zengwen river to obtain the time series and the spatial distribution of flow velocities and turbidity during the base flow and flood conditions. A nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, has been adapted into a hybrid finite-difference/finite-volume, TVD (Total Variation Diminishing)-type scheme and coupled with the wave-spectrum model Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). Conventional finite-difference schemes often produce unphysical oscillations when modeling coastal processes with abrupt bathymetric changes at river mouths. In contrast, the TVD-type finite volume scheme allows for robust treatment of discontinuities through the shock-capturing mechanism. The model reproduces water levels, waves, currents observed at the mouth of the Zengwen River reasonably well. The simulated residual sediment transport patterns demonstrate that the transport process at the river mouth is dominated by the interaction of the bathymetry and wave-induced currents when the riverine discharge was kept in reservoirs. The offshore residual transport causes erosion at the northern part of the river mouth, and the onshore residual transport causes accretion in the ebb tidal shoals around the center of the river mouth. The simulated morphological evolution displays significant changes on shallower deltas. The location with significant sea bed changes is consistent with the spot in which severe erosion occurred in recent years. Further analysis of morphological evolution is also discussed to identify the role of coastal structures, for example, the extension of the newly constructed groins near the river mouth. Full article

Among the various causes of coastal erosion, the installation of offshore breakwaters is considered the main cause that influences the most serious changes in shorelines. However, without a proper means for predicting such terrain changes, countries and regions continue to suffer from the aftermath of development projects on coastal land. It has been confirmed that the parabolic bay shape equation (PBSE) can accurately predict shoreline changes under the wave climate diffracted as a result of such development projects. This study developed a shoreline change model that has enhanced the previous shoreline change models by applying PBSE to shoreline changes into bay-shaped features. As an analytical comparison with the second term of the GENESIS model, which is an existing and well-known shoreline change model, a similar beach erosion width was obtained for a small beach slope. However, as the beach slope became larger, the result became smaller than that of the GENESIS model. The validity of the model was verified by applying it to satellite images that demonstrated the occurrence of shoreline changes caused by breakwaters for seaports on the eastern coast of Korea; Wonpyeong beach, Yeongrang beach, and Wolcheon beach. As a result, each studied site converged on the static equilibrium planform within several years. Simultaneously, the model enabled the coastal management of the arrangement of seaports to evaluate how the construction of structures causes serious shoreline changes by creating changes to wavefields. Full article

Many coastal aquifers are facing severe anthropogenic impacts such as urbanization, industrialization and agricultural activities are resulting in a saltwater intrusion. This establishes the need for a sustainable groundwater management strategy aimed to overcome the situation. Pumping of brackish/saline water to mitigate saltwater intrusion is a major potential approach to effectively control saltwater intrusion. However, this method has many challenges including selection of appropriate discharge rates under an optimum number of pumping wells and at specified wells distance from the shoreline. Hence, this study developed a Finite Element Flow and solute transport model (FEFLOW) to simulate three scenarios to assess the most appropriate pumping rates, number of wells and optimum well locations from the shoreline. These parameters were assessed and evaluated with respect to the change in groundwater saline concentration at different distance from the coastline. The 15,000 mg L⁻¹ isosalinity contour line was used as a linear threshold to assess the progression of saltwater intrusion along three major locations in the aquifer. Scenario One was simulated with a constant number of wells and rate of pumping. Shifting of pumping wells to several distances from the shoreline was conducted. Scenario Two assessed the most appropriate number of pumping wells under constant pumping rates and distances from the shoreline and in scenario 3, the optimum pumping rates under a constant number of wells and distance from the shoreline were simulated. The results showed that the pumping of brackish/saline water from a distance of 1500 m from the shoreline using 16 pumping wells at a total pumping rate of 8000 m³ d⁻¹ is the most effective solution in contrasting the saltwater intrusion in the Wadi Ham coastal aquifer. Full article

Wave and tidal energies are some of the most prominent potential sources of renewable energy. Presently, these energy sources are not being utilized to their maximum extent. In this paper, we present a new conversion mechanism with an innovative electrical energy converter design that enables the use of wave energy to its maximum potential. The conventional wave energy converter comprises two stages of conversion (kinetic to mechanical and mechanical to electrical), imposing transformation loss that reduces the overall system efficiency. Additionally, the architecture and operational norms are dependent on the availability of shoreline areas, and the convertor is not suitable for all ocean weather conditions. To solve these problems, we have developed a wave energy conversion system that integrates the two stages of power with the minimum number of moving parts. This results in significant reduction of transformation losses that otherwise occur in the process. This paper presents an innovative idea of designing a DC generator that reduces the hierarchy of power conversion levels involved to improve the efficiency. The back and forth motion of the machine means it operates in a two-quadrant generation mode. The machine was constructed as a square box model with windings placed on both the top and bottom stator plates, and the rotor consisted of a field winding placed between these plates with two axes of operation. The electromagnetic field (EMF) induced in the stator plates is due to the resulting flux cutting, which is generated by a rolling object (rotor) in between them. A finite element analysis (FEA) of the machine is also listed to validate the flux linkage and operational efficiency. Additionally, a generator is fabricated to the predetermined design criteria as a proof of concept and the corresponding results are posted in the paper. Additionally, we present the material and cost limitations of this invention and outline some possible future directions. Full article