Search Results (946)

Skin aging is closely related to mitochondrial dysfunction and cell cycle abnormalities, and developing intervention strategies targeting mitochondrial quality control is an important direction for anti-aging research. In this study, we investigated the anti-aging mechanism of Camellia japonica flower (CJF) extract and its active ingredient hyperoside based on a doxorubicin (DOX)-induced endogenous senescence model in human skin fibroblasts (HSFs). LC-MS proteomics analysis revealed that CJF extract and hyperoside specifically activated the FUNDC1-mediated mitochondrial autophagy pathway, significantly ameliorated the DOX-induced decrease in mitochondrial membrane potential and the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), and alleviated the cellular S-phase blockade and reversed the high expression of senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal). Further studies showed that the two cleared damaged mitochondria by enhancing mitochondrial autophagy and restoring cellular energy metabolism homeostasis while promoting type III collagen and elastin synthesis and repairing the expression of Claudin 1 related to skin barrier function. For the first time, the present study reveals the molecular mechanism of CJF extract in delaying skin aging by regulating the FUNDC1-dependent mitochondrial autophagy pathway, which provides a theoretical basis and a candidate strategy for developing novel anti-aging agents targeting mitochondrial quality control. Full article

Metagenomic studies have provided deeper insights into the complex interactions between the skin and its microbiota. However, limited research has been conducted on the skin microbiota of Brazilian women. Given that Brazil ranks as the fourth-largest consumer of cosmetics worldwide, the development of new tools to analyze skin microbiota is crucial for formulating cosmetic products that promote a healthy microbiome. Skin samples were analyzed using the Illumina platform. Biometrology assessments were applied. The results showed pH variations were more pronounced in the older age group, along with higher transepidermal water loss values. Metagenomic analysis showed a predominance of Actinobacteria (83%), followed by Proteobacteria (7%), Firmicutes (9%) and Bacteroidetes (1%). In the older group (36–45 years old), an increase in Actinobacteria (87%) was observed and a decrease in Proteobacteria (6%). Moreover, the results differ from the international literature, since an increase in proteobacteria (13.9%) and a decrease in actinobacteria (46.7%) were observe in aged skin. The most abundant genus identified was Propionibacterium (84%), being the dominant species. Interestingly, previous studies have suggested a decline in Cutibacterium abundance with aging; although there is no significant difference, it is possible to observe an increasing trend in this genus in older skin. These studies can clarify many points about the skin microbiota of Brazilian women, and these findings could lead to the development of new cosmetics based on knowledge of the skin microbiome. Full article

Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.) fruits represent the recognized wellspring of bioactive compounds with various documented bioactivities. Although bilberry leaves are often treated as industrial by-products, they also represent a valuable source of phytochemicals with potential dermocosmetic applications. In this study, extracts of bilberry fruits and leaves were prepared using both conventional solvents (water and 50% ethanol) and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) as green, biodegradable alternatives. The aim of this study was to examine the UV protective activity and inhibitory potential of those extracts against some enzymes (tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, collagenase) that are important in terms of skin conditioning and skin aging. The results of in vitro tests have shown the superiority of NaDES extracts compared to conventional extracts regarding all tested bioactivities. In addition, bilberry leaves extracts were more potent compared to fruit extracts in all cases. The most potent extract was bilberry leaf extract made with malic acid–glycerol, which exhibited strong anti-tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 3.52 ± 0.26 mg/mL), anti-hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ = 3.23 ± 0.30 mg/mL), and anti-collagenase (IC₅₀ = 1.84 ± 0.50 mg/mL) activities. The correlation analysis revealed correlation between UV protective and anti-tyrosinase, UV protective and anti-collagenase as well as between anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase activity. UV protection and anti-tyrosinase activity correlated significantly with chlorogenic acid and hyperoside contents in extracts. The extracts with the best activities also demonstrated a good safety profile in a 24 h in vivo study on human volunteers. Full article

High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound (HIFU) is a non-invasive technology widely used in aesthetic dermatology for skin tightening and facial rejuvenation. This study aimed to evaluate the safety and efficacy of a modified HIFU device, More Young, compared to the standard 7D HIFU system through a randomized, single-blinded clinical trial. The More Young device features enhanced focal depth precision and energy delivery algorithms, including nine pre-programmed stabilization checkpoints to minimize treatment risks. A total of 100 participants with facial wrinkles and skin laxity were randomly assigned to receive either More Young or 7D HIFU treatment. Skin improvements were assessed at baseline and one to six months post-treatment using the VISIA^® Skin Analysis System (7th Generation), focusing on eight key parameters. Patient satisfaction was evaluated through the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS). Data were analyzed using paired and independent t-tests, with effect sizes measured via Cohen’s d. Both groups showed significant post-treatment improvements; however, the More Young group demonstrated superior outcomes in wrinkle reduction, skin tightening, and texture enhancement, along with higher satisfaction and fewer adverse effects. No significant differences were observed in five of the eight skin parameters. Limitations include the absence of a placebo group, limited sample diversity, and short follow-up duration. Further studies are needed to validate long-term outcomes and assess performance across varied demographics and skin types. Full article

Skin aging is characterized by compromised epidermal homeostasis and dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ) integrity, resulting in reduced stem cell potential and impaired tissue regeneration. This study investigated the effects of Andrographis paniculata extract (APE) on keratinocyte stem cells (KSCs) and DEJ composition in human skin. Using human skin explants and cell culture models, we demonstrated that APE treatment enhances DEJ composition by increasing Collagen IV and Laminin production while decreasing MMP-9 expression, without altering epidermal structure or differentiation. In the same model, APE preserved stemness potential by upregulating markers related to niche components (collagen XVII and β1-integrin), proliferation (Ki-67 and KRT15), and stem cell capacity (Survivin and LRIG1). In vitro studies revealed that APE selectively stimulated KSC proliferation without affecting transit amplifying cells and promoted Collagen IV and Laminin secretion, particularly in KSCs. Furthermore, in a co-culture model simulating a compromised DEJ (UVB-induced), APE increased Laminin production in KSCs, suggesting a protective effect against photo-damage. These findings indicate that APE enhances DEJ composition and preserves stem cell potential, highlighting its promise as a candidate for skin anti-aging strategies targeting stem cell maintenance and extracellular matrix stability to promote skin regeneration and repair. Full article

Skin aging is a natural biological process that can be accelerated by free radical induction, leading to a reduction in skin elasticity and the formation of wrinkles due to the depletion of elastin. Eugenia uniflora (dewandaru) is a promising plant believed to possess anti-aging properties, primarily attributed to its major constituents, myricitrin and quercetin. This study aimed to investigate the anti-elastase and antioxidant properties of Eugenia uniflora stem bark, ripe fruit, and seed extracts. Extracts were obtained using an ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) method with 70% ethanol. Quantitative phytochemical analysis involved measuring the total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and antioxidant activity. Bioactive constituents were identified using LC-MS analysis, and their interactions with target enzymes were further evaluated through in silico molecular docking. The results demonstrated that the E. uniflora seed extract exhibited the highest antioxidant activity, with an IC₅₀ of 5.23 µg/mL (DPPH assay) and a FRAP value of 3233.32 µmol FeSO₄/g. Furthermore, the ethanolic seed extract showed significant anti-elastase activity with an IC₅₀ of 114.14 µg/mL. Molecular docking predicted strong potential for several compounds as pancreatic elastase inhibitors, including 5-phenylvaleric acid, 2-(3-phenylpropyl)phenol, n-amylbenzene, 2-aminoadipic acid, and traumatin, each showing a prediction activity (PA) value exceeding 0.6. Notably, these compounds also exhibited inhibitory activity against tyrosinase. These findings collectively underscore the significant promise of E. uniflora seed extract as a novel and natural candidate for pharmacocosmeceutical product development, particularly for anti-aging applications. Full article

Skin aging causes reduced hydration, elasticity, and increased wrinkles. Recent safety and compliance concerns over oral collagen supplements have increased interest in plant-based alternatives like Hibiscus sabdariffa with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. However, clinical evidence regarding its efficacy remains limited. We aimed to evaluate the effects of this plant-based collagen alternative (VC-H1, Hibiscus Enzyme Extract) supplement on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), desquamation, elasticity, and wrinkle reduction in photoaged individuals. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted with 98 participants (aged 35–60 years) presenting with dry skin and periorbital wrinkles. Participants randomly received 1.5 g/day of VC-H1 or placebo for 12 weeks. Skin hydration, TEWL, deep moisture, keratin index, elasticity, and wrinkle parameters were assessed at baseline, 6 weeks, and 12 weeks. VC-H1 supplementation significantly increased skin hydration, reduced the TEWL and keratin index, and improved deep moisture content for those receiving it compared with the controls. Wrinkle depth significantly decreased, and skin elasticity also improved. Those in the VC-H1 group showed greater overall improvement than those in the control group. Oral VC-H1 supplementation significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle reduction, suggesting its potential as a plant-based alternative to traditional collagen supplements for skin rejuvenation. Full article

In recent decades, there has been a marked surge in the development of marine-by-product-derived ingredients for cosmetic applications, driven by the increasing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. Marine animal by-products, particularly those from fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, represent an abundant yet underutilized source of bioactive compounds with notable potential in cosmeceutical innovation. Generated as waste from the fishery and seafood-processing industries, these materials are rich in valuable bioactives, such as chitosan, collagen, peptides, amino acids, fatty acids, polar lipids, lipid-soluble vitamins, carotenoids, pigments, phenolics, and mineral-based substrates like hydroxyapatite. Marine by-product bioactives can be isolated via several extraction methods, and most importantly, green ones. These compounds exhibit a broad spectrum of skin-health-promoting effects, including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, anti-wrinkle, anti-hyperpigmentation, and wound-healing properties. Moreover, applications extend beyond skincare to include hair, nail, and oral care. The present review provides a comprehensive analysis of bioactives obtained from marine mollusks, crustaceans, and fish by-products, emphasizing modern extraction technologies with a focus on green and sustainable approaches. It further explores their mechanisms of action and documented efficacy in cosmetic formulations. Finally, the review outlines current limitations and offers future perspectives for the industrial valorization of marine by-products in functional and environmentally-conscious cosmetic development. Full article

Background: Blackberry seed oil (BSO), obtained from Rubus spp. Xavante cultivar via supercritical CO₂ extraction, contains bioactive lipids and antioxidants, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor solubility and stability. Nanoencapsulation with poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) can overcome these limitations. Methods: BSO was characterized by Ultra-High-Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry and incorporated into PCL nanocapsules (NCBSO) using the preformed polymer deposition method. Physicochemical properties, stability (at 4 °C, room temperature, and 37 °C for 90 days), cytotoxicity, and collagen production were assessed in human fibroblasts. Additionally, a predictive in silico analysis using PASS Online, Molinspiration, and SEA platforms was performed to identify the bioactivities of major BSO compounds related to collagen synthesis, antioxidant potential, and anti-aging effects. Results: NCBSO showed a nanometric size of ~267 nm, low polydispersity (PDI < 0.2), negative zeta potential (−28 mV), and spherical morphology confirmed by FE-SEM. The dispersion remained stable across all tested temperatures, preserving pH and colloidal properties. In particular, BSO and NCBSO at 100 µg.mL⁻¹ significantly enhanced in vitro collagen production by 170% and 200%, respectively, compared to untreated cells (p < 0.01). Superior bioactivity was observed for NCBSO. The in silico results support the role of key compounds in promoting collagen biosynthesis and protecting skin structure. No cytotoxic effects were achieved. Conclusions: The nanoencapsulation of BSO into PCL nanocapsules ensured formulation stability and potentiated collagen production. These findings support the potential of NCBSO as a promising candidate for future development as a collagen-boosting cosmeceutical. Full article

Objectives: Sialic acid (SA), a naturally occurring compound abundantly found in birds’ nests, holds immense promise for skincare applications owing to its remarkable biological properties. However, its low bioavailability, poor stability, and limited skin permeability have constrained its widespread application. Methods: To overcome these challenges, SA was encapsulated within nanoliposomes (NLPs) by the high-pressure homogenization technique to develop an advanced and efficient transdermal drug delivery system. The skincare capabilities of this novel system were comprehensively evaluated across multiple experimental platforms, including in vitro cell assays, 3D skin models, in vivo zebrafish studies, and clinical human trials. Results: The SA-loaded NLPs (SA-NLPs) substantially improved the transdermal penetration and retention of SA, facilitating enhanced cellular uptake and cell proliferation. Compared to free SA, SA-NLPs demonstrated a 246.98% increase in skin retention and 1.8-fold greater cellular uptake in HDF cells. Moreover, SA-NLPs protected cells from oxidative stress-induced damage, stimulated collagen synthesis, and effectively suppressed the secretion of matrix metalloproteinases, tyrosinase activity, and melanin production. Additionally, zebrafish-based assays provided in vivo evidence of the skincare efficacy of SA-NLPs. Notably, clinical evaluations demonstrated that a 56-day application of the SA-NLPs-containing cream resulted in a 4.20% increase in L*, 7.87% decrease in b*, 8.45% decrease in TEWL, and 4.01% reduction in wrinkle length, indicating its superior brightening, barrier-repair, and anti-aging effects. Conclusions: This multi-level, systematic investigation strongly suggests that SA-NLPs represent a highly promising transdermal delivery strategy, capable of significantly enhancing the anti-aging, barrier-repair, and skin-brightening properties of SA, thus opening new avenues for its application in the fields of dermatology and cosmeceuticals. Full article

Theobroma cacao L. (cocoa) pod husk, a byproduct of the chocolate industry, has potential for commercial applications due to its bioactive compounds. This study aimed to determine the phytochemical composition, biological activity, and clinical efficacy of a standardized extract. This study compared 80% ethanol (CE) and 80% ethanol acidified (CEA) as extraction solvents. The result indicated that CEA yielded higher total phenolic content (170.98 ± 7.41 mg GAE/g extract) and total flavonoid content (3.91 ± 0.27 mg QE/g extract) than CE. Liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (LC/MS/MS) identified various phenolic and flavonoid compounds. CEA demonstrated stronger anti-oxidant (IC₅₀ = 5.83 ± 0.11 μg/mL in the DPPH assay and 234.17 ± 4.01 mg AAE/g extract in the FRAP assay) compared to CE. Additionally, CEA exhibited anti-tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 9.51 ± 0.01 mg/mL), anti-glycation (IC₅₀ = 62.32 ± 0.18 µg/mL), and anti-collagenase (IC₅₀ = 0.43 ± 0.01 mg/mL), nitric oxide (NO) production inhibitory (IC₅₀ = 62.68 μg/mL) activities, without causing toxicity to cells. A formulated lotion containing CEA (0.01–1.0% w/w) demonstrated stability over six heating–cooling cycles. A clinical study with 30 volunteers showed no skin irritation. The 1.0% w/w formulation (F4) improved skin hydration (+52.48%), reduced transepidermal water loss (−7.73%), and decreased melanin index (−9.10%) after 4 weeks of application. These findings suggest cocoa pod husk extract as a promising active ingredient for skin hydrating and lightening formulation. Nevertheless, further long-term studies are necessary to evaluate its efficacy in anti-aging treatments. Full article

The cigarette production from Nicotiana tabacum generates significant amounts of waste, with an estimated 68.31 million tons of pre- and post-harvest waste discarded annually. The pre-harvest waste includes the upper parts of the plant, inflorescences, and bracts, which are removed to help the growth of the lower leaves. This study explores the potential of apical leaves from Nicotiana tabacum var. Virginia, discarded during the budding stage (pre-harvest waste). The leaves were extracted using environmentally friendly solvents (green solvents), including distilled water (DW) and two natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs), one consisting of simple sugars, fructose, glucose, and sucrose (FGS) and the other consisting of choline chloride and urea (CU). The anti-inflammatory and anti-aging potential of these green extracts was assessed by the inhibition of key enzymes related to skin aging. The xanthine oxidase and lipoxygenase activities were mostly inhibited by CU extracts with IC₅₀ values of 63.50 and 8.0 μg GAE/mL, respectively. The FGS extract exhibited the greatest hyaluronidase inhibition (49.20%), followed by the CU extract (33.20%) and the DW extract (20.80%). Regarding elastase and collagenase inhibition, the CU extract exhibited the highest elastase inhibition, while all extracts inhibited collagenase activity, with values exceeding 65%. Each extract had a distinct chemical profile determined by LC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS and spectrophotometric methods, with several shared compounds present in different proportions. CU extract is characterized by high concentrations of rutin, nicotiflorin, and azelaic acid, while FGS and DW extracts share major compounds such as quinic acid, fructosyl pyroglutamate, malic acid, and gluconic acid. Ames test and Caenorhabditis elegans assay demonstrated that at the concentrations at which the green tobacco extracts exhibit biological activities, they did not show toxicity. The results support the potential of N. tabacum extracts obtained with NaDESs as antiaging and suggest their promising applications in the cosmetic and cosmeceutical industries. Full article

This study aims to provide a comprehensive evaluation of the bioactive compounds present in honeysuckle flower (Lonicera japonica Thunb.) extract (HSF) and their remarkable antioxidant activity. A docking simulation was performed to clarify the binding affinities of the identified phytochemicals to enzymes associated with anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities. In addition, the low-energy nanoemulsions based on optimally formulated polyglycerol fatty acid esters (PGFEs), developed through D-optimality, were designed for the incorporation of HSF extract. The result revealed that HSF is a rich source of diverse phenolic and flavonoid compounds that contribute to its remarkable antioxidant capacity. Molecular docking analysis indicates that its compounds exhibit anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities, particularly through collagenase, hyaluronidase, and TNF-α inhibition. Furthermore, D-optimality revealed that HSF-loaded nanoemulsions can be fabricated by a surfactant to oil ratio (SOR) of 2:1 with a ratio of low hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) surfactant to high HLB surfactant (LHR) of 1:2. Polyglyceryl-6 laurate as a high HLB surfactant produced the optimal nanoemulsion with small particle size and possessed an encapsulation efficiency (EE) of 74.32 ± 0.19%. This is the first report to combine D-optimal design-based nanoemulsion development with a multi-level analysis of HSF, including phytochemical profiling, antioxidant evaluation, and in silico molecular docking. These findings highlight that HSF-loaded polyglycerol fatty acid ester-based nanoemulsions could be a skin health-promoting ingredient and effective alternative for a variety of skincare applications. Full article

Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to structural changes in the skin. Current anti-aging cosmetic trends emphasize innovative natural ingredients, including plant extracts, thermal waters, and botanical hydrolats. This work aims to develop six natural anti-aging cosmetics (two serums, two day creams, and two night creams) with innovative and non-irritating profiles. The rational design was guided by market analysis and ingredient properties. Prototype formulations were created with two core mixtures: (1) natural mineral water from Termas de Unhais da Serra and Thymus × citriodorus hydrolat and (2) natural mineral water from Termas de Chaves and aqueous Vaccinium myrtillus (blueberry) extract. The products were evaluated for stability (4 °C and 40 °C, 4 weeks), safety (according to EC Regulation No. 1223/2009), including in vitro testing for skin irritation potential (epiderm model; OECD TG 439). The market study highlighted a gap in anti-aging products combining natural extracts and thermal waters. All prototypes showed desirable textures and remained stable under test conditions. No irritating effects were observed. The results support the development of effective anti-aging cosmetics rooted in natural resources. These innovative products can meet the market demand for natural and sustainable skincare solutions. Full article

Small extracellular vesicles (sEVs) derived from mesenchymal stem cells have emerged as promising therapeutic agents in regenerative dermatology. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of Bio-Pulsed avian mesenchymal stem cell-derived sEVs (AMSC-sEVs), topically applied for hair follicle stimulation and skin rejuvenation. Two prospective, single-arm clinical trials were conducted: one involving 30 participants using a hair ampoule over 60 days, and the other involving 30 participants applying a facial essence for 28 days. Objective measurements demonstrated significant improvements in the anagen/telogen hair ratio, reduced shedding, increased collagen density, and reduced wrinkle depth and pigmentation. Small RNA sequencing and qPCR profiling confirmed that Bio-Pulsed AMSC-sEVs were enriched with regenerative microRNAs, such as miR-21-5p and miR-199a-5p, associated with anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects. No adverse events were reported. These findings suggest that Bio-Pulsed AMSC-sEVs may offer a safe, non-invasive, and cell-free approach to enhance skin and hair regeneration in human subjects. Full article