Search Results (53)

Wave deformation and sediment transport nearest the shoreside are among the main reasons for sand erosion and beach profile changes. In particular, identifying the areas of incident-wave breaking and longshore current generation parallel to the shoreline is important for understanding the morphological changes of coastal beaches. In this study, a two-phase incompressible flow model along with a sandy sloping topography was employed to investigate the wave deformation and longshore current generation areas in a circular wave basin model. The finite volume method (FVM) was implemented to discretize the governing equations in cylindrical coordinates, the volume-of-fluid method (VOF) was adopted to differentiate the air–water interfaces in the control cells, and the zonal embedded grid technique was employed for grid generation in the cylindrical computational domain. The water surface elevations and velocity profiles were measured in different wave conditions, and the measurements showed that the maximum water levels per wave were high and varied between cases, as well as between cross-sections in a single case. Additionally, the mean water levels were lower in the adjacent positions of the approximated wave-breaking zones. The wave-breaking positions varied between cross-sections in a single case, with the incident-wave height, mean water level, and wave-breaking position measurements indicating the influence of downstream flow variation in each cross-section on the sloping topography. The cross-shore velocity profiles became relatively stable over time, while the longshore velocity profiles predominantly moved in the alongshore direction, with smaller fluctuations, particularly during the same time period and in measurement positions near the wave-breaking zone. The computed velocity profiles also varied between cross-sections, and for the velocity profiles along the cross-shore and longshore directions nearest the wave-breaking areas where the downstream flow had minimal influence, it was presumed that there was longshore-current generation in the sloping topography nearest the shoreside. The computed results were compared with the experimental results and we observed similar characteristics for wave profiles in the same wave period case in both models. In the future, further investigations can be conducted using the presented circular wave basin model to investigate the oblique wave deformation and longshore current generation in different sloping and wave conditions. Full article

The long-term trend of coastal upwelling under global warming has been a research focus in recent years. Based on datasets including sea surface temperature (SST), sea surface wind, air–sea heat fluxes, ocean currents, and sea level pressure, this study explores the long-term trend and underlying mechanisms of the Oman coastal upwelling intensity in summer during 1993–2018. The results indicate a persistent decrease in SST within the Oman upwelling region during this period, suggesting an intensification trend of Oman upwelling. This trend is primarily driven by the strengthened positive wind stress curl (WSC), while the enhanced net shortwave radiation flux at the sea surface partially suppresses the SST cooling induced by the strengthened positive WSC, and the effect of horizontal oceanic heat transport is weak. Further analysis revealed that the increasing trend in the positive WSC results from the nonuniform responses of sea level pressure and the associated surface winds to global warming. There is an increasing trend in sea level pressure over the western Arabian Sea, coupled with decreasing atmospheric pressure over the Arabian Peninsula and the Somali Peninsula. This enhances the atmospheric pressure gradient between land and sea, and consequently strengthens the alongshore winds off the Oman coast. However, in the coastal region, wind changes are less pronounced, resulting in an insignificant trend in the alongshore component of surface wind. Consequently, it results in the increasing positive WSC over the Oman upwelling region, and sustains the intensification trend of Oman coastal upwelling. Full article

This paper showcases the results of three-dimensional numerical modeling of coastal zone hydrodynamics, based on a recently developed three-dimensional analytical model incorporating a three-dimensional formulation of radiation stress. The study examines the influence of cross-shore and alongshore bathymetric variability on hydrodynamic model results, focusing on internal volumetric current transport, bottom friction, free surface elevation, and velocity distributions. Using coastal zone cases with increasing complexity and wave datasets, we analyze differences between 2D and 3D model solutions, as well as theoretical calculations based on analytical solutions. Results indicate that in idealized, homogeneous bathymetric conditions, 2D and 3D models yield similar outputs. However, increased bathymetric complexity introduces significant variations, particularly in velocity fields and transport dynamics. Alongshore variability further modifies these distributions, emphasizing the role of lateral gradients often neglected in simplified models. The study demonstrates that neglecting alongshore bathymetric heterogeneity can lead to underestimation of key hydrodynamic variables, affecting model accuracy in coastal applications. Two-dimensional current transport fields reveal circulation patterns and possible rip current formations, suggesting that the proposed model framework provides improved insights into real-world coastal hydrodynamics. These findings highlight the necessity of incorporating three-dimensional bathymetric variability in predictive models to enhance accuracy in coastal engineering and environmental management applications. Full article

This study conducted an in-depth analysis of the sediment dynamics in the lower reaches of the Changhua River and its estuary on Hainan Island. Through field collection of topographic data and sediment sampling, combined with advanced computational techniques, the study explored the transport pathways and depositional patterns of sediments. The grain size trend analysis (GSTA) method was utilized, in conjunction with the Flemming triangle diagram method, to classify the dynamic environment of the sediments. Furthermore, hydrodynamic modeling results were integrated to further analyze the transport trends of the sediments. The study revealed that the sediment types in the research area are complex, primarily consisting of gravelly sand and sandy gravel, indicating a generally coarse sedimentary environment in the region. The sediments in the lower reaches of the Changhua River generally transport towards the south and southwest (in the direction of Beili Bay). The net sediment transport directions inferred from the GSTA model are largely consistent with the Eulerian residual flow patterns, especially in the offshore area, where discrepancies are observed in the nearshore zone. The nearshore transport is influenced by the combined effects of alongshore currents, residual flows, and river inputs, while the offshore transport exhibits a shift from the northwest to southwest directions, reflecting the regional circulation patterns. Full article

Background/Objectives: The swimming crab Charybdis feriata is an important commercial fishery species and a major economic contributor to the southeast coastal fishing communities in China. Under the scenario of resource decline and shortage in the market over recent years, it has become more urgent and necessary to explore the fine-scale population genetic characteristics of C. feriata. Methods: In this study, the genotyping-by-sequencing (GBS) method was used to estimate the genome-wide genetic variation in and population differentiation pattern of C. feriata collected from four geographical locations (Zhoushan, Quanzhou, Yangjiang, and Qinzhou) along the southeast coast of China. Results: A total of 18,815 high-quality single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) were identified and the results revealed the existence of high genetic diversity and low genetic divergence among the populations of C. feriata. Floating eggs and larvae transported by alongshore currents during the reproductive season might enhance the interpopulation genetic exchange. Principal component analysis (PCA) and a phylogenetic tree showed a high genetic connectivity of C. feriata across the southeast coast of China, but C. feriata distributed in the Zhoushan Archipelago might possess some genetic distinctiveness and diversification. Conclusions: The results supplemented basic genetic information of C. feriata at the genome level and also provided specific knowledge that could lead to the improved spatial management of fishery resources. Full article

Muddy coastlines cover much of the world’s shores, yet studies on the interaction between mud-affected coasts and estuaries are limited. This study focuses on the Mahury River estuary and its interaction with the muddy coast of the Guianas, primarily fed by the Amazon. A coupled wave–current–sediment transport model is developed to analyze the sediment exchange in an environment with strong interactions between the waves and the fluid mud. Simulations explore how seasonal changes in waves, mud availability, and tides affect sediment fluxes. The main processes influencing suspended particulate matter (SPM) and sediment transport are well emulated, notwithstanding the complexity of the ambient muddy environment. The results show that during the rainy season, strong wave damping and wave refraction zones cause high SPM resuspension in shallow waters (<5 m). In contrast, during the dry season, wave influence shifts to the estuary mouth. Erosion and sedimentation patterns indicate that ebb currents associated with neap tides during the rainy season represent the most favourable conditions for the alongshore migration of mud banks. Neaptide ebb currents also contribute to sedimentation during the dry season but only in the estuary mouth and the nearby coastal area. The abundance of mud leads to an extension of the estuary’s intertidal area during the dry season. Full article

This study aims to investigate the hydrodynamic-morphological interactions on a microtidal intermediate-dissipative beach under low to moderate wave energy conditions using field measurements during two climatic seasons. The separate contributions of currents, sea-swell waves, and infragravity waves to high- and low-frequency sediment fluxes were analyzed. The infragravity wave energy was more relevant near the swash zone than in other areas. Although the currents are the primary suspended sediment transport mechanism, the results suggest that the waves are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed. The results indicate that Sea-Swell (SS) waves and cross-shore currents are the prevailing hydrodynamic factors in nearshore sediment transport, and the cross-shore suspended sediment transport rates are higher than those in alongshore transport. The submerged bar intensified during the wet season (1–4 November 2018) when the wave height intensities were lower, contrary to the dry season (24–25 March 2018). Significant accretion nearshore was identified (in the subaerial beach) during the wet season when the suspended sediments were greater, the SS-wave heights nearshore were lower, and sediment flux was directed onshore. A notorious erosion was distinguished during the dry season. The most representative volume changes occurred during the dry season (with high erosion), which is attributed to the high SS-wave energy. Full article

The sediment transport along a coastal zone of Thermaikos Bay and the interaction with the coastline were studied in the present research. This study concerns the greater basin of an existing breakwater, for which the sand transport during the time periods 1950–1968 and 2009–2017, before and after the construction of the breakwater, were examined. The breakwater led to sand accumulation behind it, causing the well-known phenomenon of salient. It was revealed that climate change, in terms of wind conditions, significantly affected sediment transport; more specifically, the sand transport during 2009–2017 not only decreased significantly, but also changed its direction, in relation to 1950–1968. Based on the information obtained, technical interventions are proposed for the interception of sediment transport and the consequent accumulation of sand behind the breakwater. Full article

Sand nourishments and groynes as coastal protection measures (CPM) address similar challenges on sandy coasts but take different approaches: while groynes are intended to reduce alongshore sediment transport and erosion, nourishments add new sediment to the system to compensate for erosion. The aim of this study is to compare the ecological effects of such measures on the vegetation. To this end, nutrient analysis and botanical mappings were carried out on a site with installed groynes, a site where sand nourishments are regularly carried out, and a control site without any CPM. In addition to an increase in nutrient availability after the sand nourishment, significant changes in plant species diversity and composition were also measured. The number of higher plants, mosses, and lichen species was lower at the nourishment site. The opposite impacts were observed at the groyne site: an increase in sediment cover by higher plants and mosses and a distinct increase in lichen species. The results suggest that groynes lead to a stabilization of the coastal system and enable dense vegetation growth. In contrast, sand nourishments lead to nutrient input and unstable habitat conditions, attracting certain plant communities but preventing the establishment of ground-covering vegetation. Full article

Coastal erosion poses significant challenges to shoreline management, exacerbated by rising sea levels and changing climate patterns. This study investigates the influence of gap spacing between semicircular coastal defence structures on shoreline dynamics during storm events. The innovative design of these structures aims to induce a drift reversal of prevalent sediment transport while avoiding interruption of alongshore sediment drift, thus protecting the beach. Three different gap spacings, ranging from 152 m to 304 m, were analysed using the XBeach numerical model, focusing on storm morphodynamic behaviour. Methodologically, hydrodynamic and morphodynamic analyses were conducted to understand variations in significant wave heights adjacent to the structures, in accretion and erosion volumes, and changes in bed level under storm conditions. The study aims to elucidate the complex interaction between engineered coastal protection solutions and natural coastal processes, providing practical insights for coastal management practices. Results indicate that installing semicircular coastal defence structures influences sediment dynamics during storm events, effectively protecting stretches of the coast at risk. Optimal gap spacing between structures is crucial to mitigating coastal erosion and enhancing sediment accumulation, offering a sustainable shoreline protection approach. The findings underscore the importance of balanced location selection to optimize protection benefits while minimizing adverse morphological effects. Overall, this research contributes to advancing knowledge of hydro-morphological phenomena essential for effective coastal engineering and informs the design and implementation of more sustainable coastal protection strategies in the face of increasing coastal erosion and sea level rise challenges. Full article

Numerical models can be powerful tools for evaluating the best scenarios for the construction of artificial nourishments to mitigate coastal erosion. Until recent decades, when looking at medium- to long-term simulations, cross-shore and alongshore processes have been studied separately. Accounting for both processes in a shoreline evolution numerical model would improve the understanding and predictive capacity of future changes in coastline evolution. The AX-COAST project aims to develop new capacities in modeling cross-shore sediment transport processes by adding the CS-Model, a cross-shore numerical model, into the existing LTC (Long-Term Configuration) model. The LTC model is a shoreline evolution numerical model which is a module of the cost–benefit assessment tool COAST. This work presents the first steps of the CS-Model implementation, which involve evaluating its performance by calibrating the model with extensive measured datasets of wave climate, beach profiles, tide levels, etc., from coastal areas in IJmuiden and Sand Motor in the Netherlands. The results show good agreement between modeled and observed values. Additionally, wave climate datasets derived from global and regional wave models were considered to evaluate modeling performance at IJmuiden. Using derived timeseries from the wave models did not significantly lead to different results compared to using measured data. The obtained mean absolute and relative errors for each profile were low for both types of datasets. Calibration processes with consistent data are important in modeling simulations to accurately represent the study area and ensure the credibility of future simulations. Full article

The effect of artificial island on the geomorphologic processes in the coastal area under the coupled hydrodynamics, wave, and sediment transport system is a complicated and multi-scale problem. Studying these dynamic processes will suggest how coastal ecological restoration should be conducted. In this study, a unified, unstructured, gridded coupled hydrodynamics, wave, and sediment transport model and a topographic evolution model were adopted. Based on the field observations of water depth, velocity, suspended sediment concentration, bed sand, and quaternary thickness, a high-spatiotemporal-resolution numerical simulation of the offshore dynamic environment under the disturbance of artificial island was performed, and the accuracy of the calculation was verified. The research showed that the coupling system with an unstructured mesh was able to reproduce the flow and sediment transport processes with acceptable accuracy. The contracted flow zone between the artificial island and the coastline, the runoff and alongshore current from the river, as well as the tidal flow from the ocean, worked together to mold the local complex morphology around the artificial island. The coupled modeling system, supported with parallel computation, can be used to study coastal environments with small-scale wading structures. Full article

Costa da Caparica beach, in Portugal, has suffered from chronic erosion for the last 50 years, a phenomenon that has been countered by various management interventions. This study aims at comparing sixteen possible interventions, thus identifying the most effective one(s) in terms of reducing beach erosion or even promoting beach accretion. This exercise is achieved using a one-line shoreline evolution model, calibrated with in situ field data, forced by local wave conditions. The target management period is 25 years. In the calibration phase, it is found that the annual mean alongshore net sediment transport along the 24 km sandy coast is variable in direction and magnitude, but it is mostly smaller than ±50 × 10³ m³/year. This net transport results from the imbalance of northward/southward-directed bulk transports of circa tenfold-larger magnitudes. This affects the overall sediment balance at the urban beaches, as well as the effectiveness of the intervention strategies. The results show that the present management strategy is effective in holding the shoreline position, although deploying the same nourishment volume but over a shorter area could lead to better results. The best solutions, which are capable of promoting beach accretion, implicate the lengthening of the terminal groin at the northern extremity of the beach. The results from this study can support decision makers in identifying the most appropriate management action, not just locally but also at other coastal regions where similar problems persist and the same methodology could be applied. Full article

Assessments of the state of sea waters and complex studies of the marine environment in various ocean basins are often based on hydrophysical fields (currents, temperature, salinity, etc.) obtained through the use of numerical modeling. The regular fields of currents are of particular importance for assessing the transport of impurities in sea waters at different depths, including pollutants of various origins. The results of hydrophysical field modeling, in turn, depend on the conditions set at the boundaries of the basin. Therefore, the correct setting of rapidly changing atmospheric conditions is extremely important for the reconstruction of marine dynamics. This paper presents model estimates of the Black Sea circulation obtained using two different datasets, SKIRON and ERA5, as atmospheric forcing. Numerical experiments for 2016 are carried out based on the eddy-resolving MHI-model. ARGO floats and R/V Cruises data are used to validate the simulation results. It was discovered that temperature and salinity RMSE between the model and measurement data are decreased under ERA5 forcing. Near the northeastern continental slope, a change in the direction of the alongshore subpycnocline current, which is detected in the ARGO float trajectory, is modeled using ERA5 rather than SKIRON. Therefore, for a more accurate reconstruction of the Black Sea circulation, ERA5 atmospheric forcing is recommended. Full article

This study discusses the coastal sediment budget for the Ishikawa coast using 12 years of observational datasets; it involves an understanding the local and regional sediment dynamics, the intensity of the transport processes in the region, and sediment supply from a local river. Although alongshore sediment transport and sediment budgets have been analyzed in previous studies, only a few conducted cross-shore sediment transport evaluations. The concentration of suspended sediments will be determined in this study, taking into account the influence of waves that are associated with the coastal current. The cross-shore sediment transport using sediment budget analysis indicated that the net alongshore sediment transport directions in the surf and offshore zones are opposite on the Ishikawa coast. The increase in the sediment budget of the surf zone can be attributed to the river sediment supply and longshore sediment transport inflow. Because of the significant outflow components of longshore and cross-shore sediment transports, the offshore zone budget showed a decreasing trend. A detailed sensitivity study was performed by varying the input parameters, in order to determine the possible ranges of net transport rates and sediment transport to the adjacent coasts. The results demonstrated the possibility of a clockwise residual sediment circulation. Our method can be used to analyze the alongshore sediment transport for other coasts and supplement future studies on coastal sedimentology and sediment budgets. Full article