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Marine Drugs
Special Issues
Bioactive Compounds for Marine-Derived Cosmeceuticals against Skin Diseases 2.0
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Bioactive Compounds for Marine-Derived Cosmeceuticals against Skin Diseases 2.0

A special issue of Marine Drugs (ISSN 1660-3397).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (25 January 2023) | Viewed by 21714

Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. María J. Pérez

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Guest Editor
Departamento de Biología Funcional y Ciencias de la Salud, Facultad de Ciencias, Universidad de Vigo, Ourense, Spain
Interests: aquatic microbiology; microbiological control; bacteriology; antimicrobial activity; cosmetic microbiology
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Prof. Dr. Elena Falqué López

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Analytical Chemistry, Faculty of Sciences, University of Vigo, Ourense, Spain
Interests: extraction; volatile compounds; antioxidant activity; sensory analysis; cosmetics
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The cosmetic industry shows an increasing amount of interest in the development of new products with bioactive properties obtained from different marine resources. Thus, macroalgae, microalgae, marine invertebrates, and marine microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi are being analyzed in the search for new substances with new applications in skin care.

This Special Issue on “Bioactive Compounds for Marine-Derived Cosmeceuticals against Skin Diseases 2.0” aims to present the utilization of compounds from marine organisms and their incorporation in cosmetic products, to provide biological beneficial effects on human skin. These marine-derived compounds can function as active ingredients with the purpose of improving skin diseases such as acne, etc. This overview of the current knowledge in this field is provided through original papers, reviews, and short communications.

Prof. Dr. María J. Pérez
Prof. Dr. Elena Falqué López
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Marine Drugs is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2900 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • cosmeceuticals
  • marine-derived bioactive compounds
  • activities and functions
  • skin diseases
  • anti-acne activity
  • anti-inflammatory activity
  • anti-melanogenic activity

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Published Papers (4 papers)

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Research

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13 pages, 17757 KiB  
Article
Anti-Pollutant Activity of Porphyra yezoensis Water Extract and Its Active Compound, Porphyra 334, against Urban Particulate Matter-Induced Keratinocyte Cell Damage
by Seoyoung Choi, Jeong Hun Lee, Sae Woong Oh, Eunbi Yu, Kitae Kwon, Sung Joo Jang, Dong Sun Shin, Sang Hyun Moh and Jongsung Lee
Mar. Drugs 2023, 21(2), 121; https://doi.org/10.3390/md21020121 - 13 Feb 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2657
Abstract
Urban particulate matter (UPM) causes skin aging and inflammatory reactions by influencing skin cells through the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) signaling pathway. Porphyra yezoensis (also known as Pyropia yezoensis), a red alga belonging to the Bangiaceae family, is an edible red seaweed. [...] Read more.
Urban particulate matter (UPM) causes skin aging and inflammatory reactions by influencing skin cells through the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) signaling pathway. Porphyra yezoensis (also known as Pyropia yezoensis), a red alga belonging to the Bangiaceae family, is an edible red seaweed. Here, we examined the anti-pollutant effect of P. yezoensis water extract. While UPM treatment induced xenobiotic response element (XRE) promoter luciferase activity, P. yezoensis water extract reduced UPM-induced XRE activity. Next, we isolated an active compound from P. yezoensis and identified it as porphyra 334. Similar to the P. yezoensis water extract, porphyra 334 attenuated UPM-induced XRE activity. Moreover, although UPM augmented AhR nuclear translocation, which led to an increase in cytochrome P450 1A1 (CYP1A1) mRNA levels, these effects were reduced by porphyra 334. Moreover, UPM induced the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and reduced cell proliferation. These effects were attenuated in response to porphyra 334 treatment. Furthermore, our results revealed that the increased ROS levels induced by UPM treatment induced transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) activity, which is related to skin aging and inflammatory responses. However, porphyra 334 treatment reduced this reaction by inhibiting ROS production induced by CYP1A1 activation. This indicates that porphyra 334, an active compound of P. yezoensis, attenuates UP-induced cell damage by inhibiting AhR-induced ROS production, which results in a reduction in TRPV1 activation, leading to cell proliferation. This also suggests that porphyra 334 could protect the epidermis from harmful pollutants. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds for Marine-Derived Cosmeceuticals against Skin Diseases 2.0)
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19 pages, 2637 KiB  
Article
In Vivo Skin Hydrating Efficacy of Fish Collagen from Greenland Halibut as a High-Value Active Ingredient for Cosmetic Applications
by Eva Martins, Rui L. Reis and Tiago H. Silva
Mar. Drugs 2023, 21(2), 57; https://doi.org/10.3390/md21020057 - 17 Jan 2023
Cited by 13 | Viewed by 4270
Abstract
The industrial processing of fish for food purposes also generates a considerable number of by-products such as viscera, bones, scales, and skin. From a value-added perspective, fish by-products can act also as raw materials, especially because of their collagen content (particularly in fish [...] Read more.
The industrial processing of fish for food purposes also generates a considerable number of by-products such as viscera, bones, scales, and skin. From a value-added perspective, fish by-products can act also as raw materials, especially because of their collagen content (particularly in fish skin). Interestingly, the potential of marine collagen for cosmetic applications is enormous and, remarkably, the extraction of this protein from fish skins has been established for different species. Using this approach, we investigated the integration of marine collagen (COLRp_I) extracted from the skin of the Greenland halibut as an active ingredient in a cosmetic hydrogel formulation. In this study, extracts of marine collagen at concentrations up to 10 mg/mL showed a non-cytotoxic effect when cultured with fibroblast cells for 3 days. In addition, marine collagen extract, when incorporated into a cosmetic hydrogel formulation, met criterion A of ISO 11930:2019 regarding the efficacy of the preservative system (challenge test). In addition, the cosmetic formulations based on marine collagen at dosages of 0.1, 0.25 and 0.5% were tested in a clinical study on the skin of the forearms of 23 healthy volunteers, showing a sightly hydration effect, suggesting its potential for beauty applications. Moreover, this work illustrates that the circular economy concept applied to the fish processing industry can represent important benefits, at innovation, environmental and economic levels. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds for Marine-Derived Cosmeceuticals against Skin Diseases 2.0)
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17 pages, 3579 KiB  
Article
Physicochemical Evaluation of Personal Care Products Developed with Chondrus crispus Fractions Processed by Ecofriendly Methodologies
by Lucía López-Hortas, María Dolores Torres, Elena Falqué and Herminia Domínguez
Mar. Drugs 2022, 20(11), 695; https://doi.org/10.3390/md20110695 - 6 Nov 2022
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2154
Abstract
Novel personal care products are necessary to cope with the growing market demand for sustainable green products. In this context, this work deals with the formulation and fundamental physicochemical and rheological characterization of different natural personal care products using bioactive fractions from Chondrus [...] Read more.
Novel personal care products are necessary to cope with the growing market demand for sustainable green products. In this context, this work deals with the formulation and fundamental physicochemical and rheological characterization of different natural personal care products using bioactive fractions from Chondrus crispus red macroalgae extracted under optimized green conditions. Body milks, body oils and shampoos were supplemented with soluble extracts with antioxidant features recovered after hydrothermal (200 °C) and microwave (170 °C)- and ultrasound (80 °C)-assisted extraction of the red macroalgae used as raw material. Formulated products were also compared with those prepared using (±)-α-tocopherol and butylhydroxytoluene standards. Body scrubs were formulated with the remaining solids (<2.25%) after microwave hydrodiffusion and gravidity treatment of the macroalgae. Results indicated that selected extracts provided personal care products with similar or even better physicochemical, color and viscous features than those supplemented with (±)-α-tocopherol or butylhydroxytoluene commercial antioxidants. Rheological profiles indicated that it is possible to develop personal care products with adequate viscous behavior (102–105 mPa s, at 1 s−1), comparable with their synthetic counterparts. To conclude, the addition of antioxidant extracts led to lower apparent viscosity values suggesting an advantage from the skin applicability point of view, jointly with the absence of both the hysteresis phenomenon and water syneresis of the proposed formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds for Marine-Derived Cosmeceuticals against Skin Diseases 2.0)
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Review

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26 pages, 1388 KiB  
Review
Potential Cosmetic Active Ingredients Derived from Marine By-Products
by Evi Amelia Siahaan, Agusman, Ratih Pangestuti, Kyung-Hoon Shin and Se-Kwon Kim
Mar. Drugs 2022, 20(12), 734; https://doi.org/10.3390/md20120734 - 24 Nov 2022
Cited by 27 | Viewed by 11793
Abstract
The market demand for marine-based cosmetics has shown a tremendous growth rate in the last decade. Marine resources represent a promising source of novel bioactive compounds for new cosmetic ingredient development. However, concern about sustainability also becomes an issue that should be considered [...] Read more.
The market demand for marine-based cosmetics has shown a tremendous growth rate in the last decade. Marine resources represent a promising source of novel bioactive compounds for new cosmetic ingredient development. However, concern about sustainability also becomes an issue that should be considered in developing cosmetic ingredients. The fisheries industry (e.g., fishing, farming, and processing) generates large amounts of leftovers containing valuable substances, which are potent sources of cosmeceutical ingredients. Several bioactive substances could be extracted from the marine by-product that can be utilized as a potent ingredient to develop cosmetics products. Those bioactive substances (e.g., collagen from fish waste and chitin from crustacean waste) could be utilized as anti-photoaging, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier, and hair care products. From this perspective, this review aims to approach the potential active ingredients derived from marine by-products for cosmetics and discuss the possible activity of those active ingredients in promoting human beauty. In addition, this review also covers the prospect and challenge of using marine by-products toward the emerging concept of sustainable blue cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds for Marine-Derived Cosmeceuticals against Skin Diseases 2.0)
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