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Open AccessArticle

Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing

1
CSIRO Oceans and Atmosphere, Crawley 6009, Australia
2
Faculty of Science, School of Earth Sciences, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia
3
Departamento de Física, Universidad Nacional, Heredia 3000, Costa Rica
4
Faculty of Engineering and Mathematical Sciences, Oceans Graduate School, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(11), 383; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7110383
Received: 18 September 2019 / Revised: 22 October 2019 / Accepted: 23 October 2019 / Published: 28 October 2019
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advances in Nearshore Hydrodynamics Research)
An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind wave conditions. The strong sea breeze cycle at the study site (wind speeds frequently > 10 m s−1) produced diurnal variations in the peak frequency of the incident waves, with wind sea conditions (periods 2 to 8 s) dominating during the peak of the sea breeze and swell (periods 8 to 20 s) dominating during times of low wind. We observed that edge wave modes and their frequency distribution varied with the frequency of the short-wave forcing (swell or wind-sea) and edge waves were more energetic than leaky waves for the duration of the 10-day experiment. While the total infragravity energy in the surf zone was higher during swell forcing, edge waves were more energetic during wind-sea periods. However, low-frequency (0.005–0.023 Hz) edge waves were found to be dominant in absence of wind-sea conditions, while higher-frequency (0.023–0.050 Hz) edge waves dominated when wind-sea conditions were present. View Full-Text
Keywords: edge waves; infragravity waves; barred beach; field observations edge waves; infragravity waves; barred beach; field observations
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MDPI and ACS Style

Contardo, S.; Symonds, G.; Segura, L.E.; Lowe, R.J.; Hansen, J.E. Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 383. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7110383

AMA Style

Contardo S, Symonds G, Segura LE, Lowe RJ, Hansen JE. Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 2019; 7(11):383. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7110383

Chicago/Turabian Style

Contardo, Stephanie; Symonds, Graham; Segura, Laura E.; Lowe, Ryan J.; Hansen, Jeff E. 2019. "Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing" J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 7, no. 11: 383. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7110383

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