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Keywords = runup prediction

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24 pages, 8979 KB  
Article
Physics-Consistent Overtopping Estimation for Dam-Break Induced Floods via AE-Enhanced CatBoost and TreeSHAP
by Hanze Li, Yazhou Fan, Zhenzhu Meng, Xinhai Zhang, Jinxin Zhang and Liang Wang
Water 2026, 18(1), 42; https://doi.org/10.3390/w18010042 - 23 Dec 2025
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 796
Abstract
Dam break problem-induced floods can trigger hazardous dike overtopping, demanding predictions that are fast, accurate, and interpretable. We pursue two objectives: (i) introducing a new alpha evolution (AE) optimization scheme to improve tree-model predictive accuracy, and (ii) developing a cluster-wise modeling strategy in [...] Read more.
Dam break problem-induced floods can trigger hazardous dike overtopping, demanding predictions that are fast, accurate, and interpretable. We pursue two objectives: (i) introducing a new alpha evolution (AE) optimization scheme to improve tree-model predictive accuracy, and (ii) developing a cluster-wise modeling strategy in which regimes are defined by wave characteristics. Using a dataset generated via physical model experiments and smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) numerical simulations, we first group samples via hierarchical clustering (HC) on the Froude number (Fr), wave nonlinearity (R), and relative distance to the dike (D). We then benchmark CatBoost, XGBoost, and ExtraTrees within each cluster and select the best-performing CatBoost as the baseline, after which we train standard CatBoost and its AE-optimized variant. Under random train–test splits, AE-CatBoost achieves the strongest generalization for predicting relative run-up distance Hm (testing dataset R2=0.9803, RMSE=0.0599), outperforming particle swarm optimization (PSO) and grid search (GS)-tuned CatBoost. We further perform TreeSHAP analyses on AE-CatBoost for global, local, and interaction attributions. SHAP analysis yields physics-consistent explanations: D dominates, followed by H and L, with a weaker positive effect of Fr and minimal influence of R; H×D is the strongest interaction pair. Overall, AE optimization combined with HC-based cluster-wise modeling produces accurate, interpretable overtopping predictions and provides a practical route toward field deployment. Full article
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23 pages, 6239 KB  
Article
Numerical and Experimental Investigation of New Concrete Armor Unit Maya
by Angela Di Leo, Anna Sansanelli, Luigi Pratola, Valentino Paolo Berardi and Fabio Dentale
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(11), 2098; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13112098 - 4 Nov 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1023
Abstract
The subject of the present work is the study of the phenomena of the interaction between wave motion and coastal defense structures for a new type of reinforcement unit in concrete armor blocks (C.A.U.)—named “MAYA”. The performance of single-layer MAYA armor, reproduced in [...] Read more.
The subject of the present work is the study of the phenomena of the interaction between wave motion and coastal defense structures for a new type of reinforcement unit in concrete armor blocks (C.A.U.)—named “MAYA”. The performance of single-layer MAYA armor, reproduced in a 1:20 Froude-scaled physical model, has been investigated in terms of hydraulic behavior and wave run-up, reflection, and overtopping. The results have been compared to classic literature formulations, numerical results of the same type of structure reproduced at full scale, and other artificial blocks. A new approach for the prediction of the reflection coefficient based on dimensional analysis was proposed in a previous study, and a newly derived empirical equation was also tested for numerical result validation. The structures were numerically modeled and reproduced using an innovative approach by overlapping individual three-dimensional elements of a new type of block “Maya”, Accropode and Tetrapod and a fine computational grid was fitted to provide enough computational nodes within the flow paths. The hydraulic behavior of the novel block was numerically evaluated, and its potential was assessed in comparison to other existing blocks. This was achieved by reproducing and analyzing the structures using a RANS approach. The numerical approach, which was validated by experimental results, enables the analysis of various design solutions in a shorter amount of time while ensuring the accuracy of the results. Additionally, the preliminary analysis showed the potential of the novel block, which allows for a reduction in construction and manufacturing costs while also demonstrating superior hydrodynamic performance in some cases. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Ocean Engineering)
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15 pages, 1382 KB  
Article
Wave Run-Up Distance Prediction Combined Data-Driven Method and Physical Experiments
by Peng Qin, Hangwei Zhu, Fan Jin, Wangtao Lu, Zhenzhu Meng, Chunmei Ding, Xian Liu and Chunmei Cheng
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(7), 1298; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13071298 - 1 Jul 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 980
Abstract
Predicting wave run-up on seawalls is essential for assessing coastal flood risk and guiding resilient design. In this study, we combine physical model experiments with a hybrid data driven method to forecast wave run-up distance. Laboratory tests generated a nonlinear data set spanning [...] Read more.
Predicting wave run-up on seawalls is essential for assessing coastal flood risk and guiding resilient design. In this study, we combine physical model experiments with a hybrid data driven method to forecast wave run-up distance. Laboratory tests generated a nonlinear data set spanning a wide range of wave amplitudes, wavelengths, Froude numbers. To capture the underlying physical regimes, the records were first classified using a Gaussian Mixture Model (GMM), which automatically grouped waves of similar hydrodynamic character. Within each cluster a Gradient Boosting Regressor (GBR) was then trained, allowing the model to learn tailored input–output relationships instead of forcing a single global fit. Results demonstrate that the GMM-GBR combined model achieves a coefficient of determination R2 greater than 0.91, outperforming a conventional, non-clustered GBR model. This approach offers a reliable tool for predicting seawall performance under varying wave conditions, contributing to better coastal management and resilience strategies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Wave Hydrodynamics in Coastal Areas)
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22 pages, 6482 KB  
Article
Similar Physical Model Experimental Investigation of Landslide-Induced Impulse Waves Under Varying Water Depths in Mountain Reservoirs
by Xingjian Zhou, Hangsheng Ma and Yizhe Wu
Water 2025, 17(12), 1752; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17121752 - 11 Jun 2025
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1315
Abstract
Landslide-induced impulse waves (LIIWs) are significant natural hazards, frequently occurring in mountain reservoirs, which threaten the safety of waterways and dam project. To predict the impact of impulse waves induced by Rongsong (RS) potential landslide on the dam, during the layered construction period [...] Read more.
Landslide-induced impulse waves (LIIWs) are significant natural hazards, frequently occurring in mountain reservoirs, which threaten the safety of waterways and dam project. To predict the impact of impulse waves induced by Rongsong (RS) potential landslide on the dam, during the layered construction period and maximum water level operation period of Rumei (RM) Dam (unbuilt), a large-scale three-dimensional similar physical model with a similarity scale of 200:1 (prototype length to model length) was established. The experiments set five water levels during the dam’s layered construction period and recorded and analyzed the generation and propagation laws of LIIWs. The findings indicate that, for partially granular submerged landslides, no splashing waves are generated, and the waveform of the first wave remains intact. The amplitude of the first wave exhibits stable attenuation while the third one reaches the largest. After the first three columns of impulse waves, water on the dam surface oscillates between the two banks. This study specifically discusses the impact of different water depths on LIIWs. The results show that the wave height increases as the water depth decreases. Two empirical formulas to calculate the wave attenuation at the generation area and to calculate the maximum vertical run-up height on the dam surface were derived, showing strong agreement between the empirical formulas and experimental values. Based on the model experiment results, the wave height data in front of the RM dam during the construction and operation periods of the RM reservoir were predicted, and engineering suggestions were given for the safety height of the cofferdam during the construction and security measures to prevent LIIW overflow the dam top during the operation periods of the RM dam. Full article
(This article belongs to the Topic Hydraulic Engineering and Modelling)
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18 pages, 1335 KB  
Article
Prediction of Seawater Intrusion Run-Up Distance Based on K-Means Clustering and ANN Model
by Jiatao Li, Zhenzhu Meng, Junkang Zhang, Yukai Chen, Jiewen Yao, Xinyue Li, Peng Qin, Xian Liu and Chunmei Cheng
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(2), 377; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13020377 - 18 Feb 2025
Cited by 22 | Viewed by 1701
Abstract
Coastal regions are increasingly vulnerable to sea-level rise and extreme storm events, making the accurate prediction of wave run-up on seawalls crucial for effective flood and erosion protection. This study presents a novel hybrid approach combining K-means clustering with artificial neural networks [...] Read more.
Coastal regions are increasingly vulnerable to sea-level rise and extreme storm events, making the accurate prediction of wave run-up on seawalls crucial for effective flood and erosion protection. This study presents a novel hybrid approach combining K-means clustering with artificial neural networks (ANNs) to predict wave run-up distance. The method begins with dimensionless analysis to scale all the variables, followed by data segmentation using K-means clustering to group wave characteristics such as the Froude number, scaled distance from the wave front to the shoreline, and wave nonlinearity. These clusters help to focus the ANN on more homogeneous wave conditions, significantly improving prediction accuracy. Two-dimensional flume experiments systematically varied wave height, period, and steepness, producing a robust dataset that accounts for a range of wave conditions. The model’s performance is demonstrated through a high R2 value of 0.97 and low mean squared error (MSE) of 0.0092, surpassing traditional ANN models in its ability to capture complex wave dynamics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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17 pages, 2011 KB  
Article
AI-Driven Optimization of Breakwater Design: Predicting Wave Reflection and Structural Dimensions
by Mohammed Loukili, Soufiane El Moumni and Kamila Kotrasova
Fluids 2025, 10(2), 34; https://doi.org/10.3390/fluids10020034 - 30 Jan 2025
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2820
Abstract
Coastal defense structures play a crucial role in mitigating wave impacts; yet, existing breakwater designs often face challenges in balancing wave reflection, energy dissipation, and structural stability. This study leverages machine learning (ML) to predict the optimal 2D dimensions of rectangular breakwaters in [...] Read more.
Coastal defense structures play a crucial role in mitigating wave impacts; yet, existing breakwater designs often face challenges in balancing wave reflection, energy dissipation, and structural stability. This study leverages machine learning (ML) to predict the optimal 2D dimensions of rectangular breakwaters in two configurations: submerged at the bottom of a wave tank and positioned at the free surface. Further, the objective is to achieve controlled wave reflection allowing a specific wave run-up and optimized energy dissipation, while ensuring maritime stability. Thus, we used an analytical equation modeling the reflection coefficient versus relative water depth (KH), for different immersion ratios of obstacle (h/H), and relative length (l/H). Two datasets of 32,000 data points were generated for underwater and free-surface breakwaters, with an additional 10,000 data points for validation, totaling 42,000 data points per case. Five ML algorithms—Random Forest, Support Vector Regression, Artificial Neural Network, Decision Tree, and Gaussian Process—were applied and evaluated. Results demonstrated that Random Forest and Decision Tree balanced accuracy with computational efficiency, while the Gaussian Process closely matched analytical results but demanded higher computational resources. These findings support ML as a powerful tool to optimize breakwater design, complementing traditional methods and contributing to more sustainable and resilient coastal defense systems. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Machine Learning and Artificial Intelligence in Fluid Mechanics)
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18 pages, 12010 KB  
Article
Landslide-Induced Wave Run-Up Prediction Based on Large-Scale Geotechnical Experiment: A Case Study of Wangjiashan Landslide Area of Baihetan Reservoir, China
by Lei Tian, Jie Lei, Pengchao Mao and Wei-Chau Xie
Water 2025, 17(3), 304; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17030304 - 22 Jan 2025
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 2210
Abstract
When a landslide mass enters a water body, it generates waves that propagate along the river channel, climb up upon reaching the riverbank, and impact nearby residential areas. To investigate the characteristics of wave run-up on a three-dimensional terrain, this study established a [...] Read more.
When a landslide mass enters a water body, it generates waves that propagate along the river channel, climb up upon reaching the riverbank, and impact nearby residential areas. To investigate the characteristics of wave run-up on a three-dimensional terrain, this study established a large-scale 3D physical model with a scale of 1:150 (dimensions: 64 m × 40 m × 3 m) based on the geological features of a specific amphibious landslide. The results show that the landslide-induced waves can partially inundate nearby residential areas. The unique terrain formed by the combination of residential areas and the southern riverbank amplifies the wave run-up height. A predictive formula was used to estimate the wave run-up height during wave convergence. This study provides valuable insights for predicting wave run-up heights in three-dimensional terrains. Considering the influence of different water levels on wave run-up, the study can be used to optimize water level regulation. Full article
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23 pages, 26348 KB  
Article
Numerical Analysis of Wave Interaction with a New Ecological Quadrangular Hollow Block
by Yu Wang, Dongfeng Li, Junwei Ye, Haitao Zhao, Miaohua Mao, Fuqing Bai, Jianyong Hu and Hongwu Zhang
Water 2025, 17(1), 96; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17010096 - 1 Jan 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1990
Abstract
Armor blocks are extensively deployed to shield vital coastal facilities against wave erosion. Evaluating the wave run-up and reflection under wave impact is essential for the engineering design of new ecological quadrangular hollow blocks. This study constructs a three-dimensional numerical model employing the [...] Read more.
Armor blocks are extensively deployed to shield vital coastal facilities against wave erosion. Evaluating the wave run-up and reflection under wave impact is essential for the engineering design of new ecological quadrangular hollow blocks. This study constructs a three-dimensional numerical model employing the open-source CFD software OpenFOAM-v2206 to analyze these processes for the new blocks. The model’s accuracy was confirmed by comparing its predictions with physical modelling tests. Model results accurately captured the variation in hydrodynamic parameters, as well as the energy dissipation properties of the new blocks. Sensitivity analysis indicated that both the wave reflection coefficients and run-up are considerably affected by mesh sizes, while velocity distributions and pressure fields were less affected by mesh. Finally, the model was utilized to examine how wave run-up and reflection for the new ecological quadrilateral hollow block are influenced by factors such as wave period, water depth, wave height, wave breaking characteristics, and wave steepness. The findings in this study provide valuable insights into novel design and safety assessment of new ecological quadrangular hollow blocks. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Management and Nearshore Hydrodynamics)
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20 pages, 5026 KB  
Article
Numerical Simulation Study on Dominant Factors of Surge Hazards in Semi-Submerged Landslides
by Jie Lei, Weiya Xu, Qingfu Huang, Lei Tian, Fugang Zhao and Changhao Lyu
Water 2025, 17(1), 22; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17010022 - 25 Dec 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1468
Abstract
Landslide-generated surge waves are significant natural hazards, posing severe risks to engineering safety. Despite extensive research on the dynamics of landslide-generated waves, studies analyzing controlling factors and their mechanisms remain limited, leaving key influencing processes inadequately understood. This study utilizes computational fluid dynamics [...] Read more.
Landslide-generated surge waves are significant natural hazards, posing severe risks to engineering safety. Despite extensive research on the dynamics of landslide-generated waves, studies analyzing controlling factors and their mechanisms remain limited, leaving key influencing processes inadequately understood. This study utilizes computational fluid dynamics (CFD) to perform a numerical simulation of a semi-submerged landslide in a hydropower station reservoir area. The research systematically investigated the effects of key variables, including slide volume, velocity, centroid height, and water depth, on the behavior of semi-submerged landslide-generated surge waves. Results demonstrate a positive correlation of slide volume, velocity, and centroid height with the initial wave height and run-up on the opposing shoreline. However, the impact of water depth reveals a more complex pattern, exhibiting distinct surge characteristics in the near-field and far-field zones. Via correlation and sensitivity analyses, this study elucidated the relationships between these factors and surge dynamics, identifying the primary factors influencing the size of the semi-submerged landslide-generated surge. The findings provide critical insights for predicting and mitigating surge disasters, offering both theoretical foundations and practical application value for landslide disaster prevention and management. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Research Status of Operation and Management of Hydropower Station)
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20 pages, 7545 KB  
Article
Numerical Evaluation of Wave Dissipation on a Breakwater Slope Covered by Precast Blocks with Different Geometrical Characteristics
by Bowen Jiao, Qingli Zhao, Fang Chen, Chunhui Liu and Qinghe Fang
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(10), 1735; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12101735 - 2 Oct 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2224
Abstract
Slopes suffer damage from waves in coastal environments. Precast blocks with well-designed geometrical characteristics can benefit the construction of revetments by mitigating the issue of wave overtopping and dissipating wave energy. In this study, we numerically studied the effect of the geometrical characteristics [...] Read more.
Slopes suffer damage from waves in coastal environments. Precast blocks with well-designed geometrical characteristics can benefit the construction of revetments by mitigating the issue of wave overtopping and dissipating wave energy. In this study, we numerically studied the effect of the geometrical characteristics of precast blocks on wave overtopping by carrying out a numerical simulation of wave overtopping on a slope covered with precast blocks. A total of three different types of blocks were considered in this study to determine the optimal geometric shape using a validated numerical model. Our numerical investigation demonstrated that the roughness of the precast block plays an important role in lessening the height of the wave run-up. Concave and embedded regular hexagons could reduce the wave run-up height by 44.6% compared with smooth slopes within a 2 s wave period. Herein, we evaluate and discuss the influence of the geometrical characteristics of a given precast block, such as thickness, aperture, and wave dissipation notch, on wave run-up. We also present an empirical formula for predicting wave run-up on a slope covered by a concave and embedded regular hexagon-type prefabricated block. This study provides valuable insights into the design of prefabricated revetment blocks. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Studies in Breakwaters and Coastal Protection)
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30 pages, 15310 KB  
Article
Characterization of Seismic Signal Patterns and Dynamic Pore Pressure Fluctuations Due to Wave-Induced Erosion on Non-Cohesive Slopes
by Zheng-Yi Feng, Wei-Ting Wu and Su-Chin Chen
Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(19), 8776; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14198776 - 28 Sep 2024
Viewed by 2117
Abstract
Wave erosion of slopes can easily trigger landslides into marine environments and pose severe threats to both the ecological environment and human activities. Therefore, near-shore slope monitoring becomes crucial for preventing and alerting people to these potential disasters. To achieve a comprehensive understanding, [...] Read more.
Wave erosion of slopes can easily trigger landslides into marine environments and pose severe threats to both the ecological environment and human activities. Therefore, near-shore slope monitoring becomes crucial for preventing and alerting people to these potential disasters. To achieve a comprehensive understanding, it is imperative to conduct a detailed investigation into the dynamics of wave erosion processes acting on slopes. This research is conducted through flume tests, using a wave maker to create waves of various heights and frequencies to erode the slope models. During the tests, seismic signals, acoustic signals, and pore pressure generated by wave erosion and slope failure are recorded. Seismic and acoustic signals are analyzed, and time-frequency spectra are calculated using the Hilbert–Huang Transform to identify the erosion events and signal frequency ranges. Arias Intensity is used to assess seismic energy and explore the relationship between the amount of erosion and energy. The results show that wave height has a more decisive influence on erosion behavior and retreat than wave frequency. Rapid drawdown may potentially cause the slope to slide during cyclic swash and backwash wave action. As wave erosion changes from swash to impact, there is a significant increase in the spectral magnitude and Power Spectral Density (PSD) of both seismic and acoustic signals. An increase in pore pressure is observed due to the rise in the run-up height of waves. The amplitude of pore pressure will increase as the slope undergoes further erosion. Understanding the results of this study can aid in predicting erosion and in planning effective management strategies for slopes subject to wave action. Full article
(This article belongs to the Topic Slope Erosion Monitoring and Anti-erosion)
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13 pages, 11797 KB  
Article
Numerical Simulation of Subaerial Granular Landslide Impulse Waves and Their Behaviour on a Slope Using a Coupled Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics–Discrete Element Method
by Feidong Zheng, Qiang Liu, Jinchao Xu, Aqiang Ming and Jia Dong
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(10), 1692; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12101692 - 24 Sep 2024
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 1678
Abstract
Numerical simulations were conducted to investigate the wave features of subaerial granular landslide-generated impulse waves and their impact on slopes. A numerical solution was obtained by coupling smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) and the discrete element method (DEM). Several predictive equations were tested for [...] Read more.
Numerical simulations were conducted to investigate the wave features of subaerial granular landslide-generated impulse waves and their impact on slopes. A numerical solution was obtained by coupling smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) and the discrete element method (DEM). Several predictive equations were tested for their applicability in predicting the maximum crest amplitude of impulse waves generated by slides of different shapes. The results indicated that the predictive model developed by Heller and Hager, utilising slide centroid impact velocity, showed favourable prediction accuracy for the maximum crest amplitude, almost independent of the slide shape at impact. Regarding the leading wave, although the wave profile and velocity distribution deviated significantly from a solitary wave of the same wave amplitude, the maximum run-up could be satisfactorily estimated using solitary wave theory. In addition, the increase in the maximum dynamic forces exerted by the impulse waves on the slope followed a power law with the incident wave amplitude. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Hydrodynamics and Water Environment Characteristics in Coastal Areas)
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18 pages, 1713 KB  
Review
Empirical Predictions on Wave Overtopping for Overtopping Wave Energy Converters: A Systematic Review
by Deping Cao, Jie He and Hao Chen
Processes 2024, 12(9), 1940; https://doi.org/10.3390/pr12091940 - 10 Sep 2024
Cited by 16 | Viewed by 4433
Abstract
Over the past three decades, the development and testing of various overtopping wave energy converters (OWECs) have highlighted the importance of accurate wave run-up and overtopping predictions on those devices. This study systematically reviews the empirical formulas traditionally used for predicting overtopping across [...] Read more.
Over the past three decades, the development and testing of various overtopping wave energy converters (OWECs) have highlighted the importance of accurate wave run-up and overtopping predictions on those devices. This study systematically reviews the empirical formulas traditionally used for predicting overtopping across different types of breakwaters by assessing their strengths, limitations, and applicability to OWECs. This provides a foundation for future research and development in OWECs. Key findings reveal that empirical formulas for conventional breakwaters can be categorized as mild or steep slopes and vertical structures based on the angle of the slope. For the same relative crest freeboards, the dimensionless average overtopping discharge of mild slopes is larger than that of vertical structures. However, the formula features predictions within a similar range for small relative crest freeboards. The empirical formulas for predicting overtopping in fixed and floating OWECs are modified from the predictors developed for conventional breakwaters with smooth, impermeable and linear slopes. Different correction coefficients are introduced to account for the effects of limited draft, inclination angle, and low relative freeboard. The empirical models for floating OWECs, particularly the Wave Dragon model, have been refined through prototype testing to account for the unique 3D structural reflector’s influence and dynamic wave interactions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Design and Utilization of Wind Turbines/Wave Energy Convertors)
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18 pages, 11422 KB  
Article
2DH Numerical Study of Solitary Wave Processes around an Idealized Reef-Fringed Island
by Weijie Liu, Feng Qian, Yue Ning and Rongliang Cheng
Water 2024, 16(14), 1991; https://doi.org/10.3390/w16141991 - 14 Jul 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1619
Abstract
In order to better understand the role of coral reefs around an isolated island in mitigating tsunami hazards, this study performed a horizontally two-dimensional (2DH) numerical study of tsunami-like solitary wave propagation and run-up around an idealized reef-fringed island. The shock-capturing Boussinesq wave [...] Read more.
In order to better understand the role of coral reefs around an isolated island in mitigating tsunami hazards, this study performed a horizontally two-dimensional (2DH) numerical study of tsunami-like solitary wave propagation and run-up around an idealized reef-fringed island. The shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model, the FUNWAVE-TVD is used in the present study and well-validated with existing experimental data for its robustness in predicting 2DH solitary wave processes around an island. Based on the validated model, the typical solitary propagation process around the reef-fringed island and the effects of morphological and hydrodynamic parameters on the maximum run-up heights were systematically investigated. It is found that coral reefs can effectively reduce maximum run-up heights around an isolated island. The reef flat’s water depth, reef flat width, and reef surface roughness are the main factors affecting maximum run-up heights around an island, while the fore-reef slope has little impact. For the idealized reef-fringed island in this study, sea-level rise will cause coral reefs to lose their protective capability on the lee side, and the presence of coral reefs may even enhance tsunami hazards around an island when the reef flat width is very narrow or coral bleaching happens. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Management and Nearshore Hydrodynamics)
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22 pages, 7765 KB  
Article
The Role of Different Total Water Level Definitions in Coastal Flood Modelling on a Low-Elevation Dune System
by Paulo Cabrita, Juan Montes, Enrico Duo, Riccardo Brunetta and Paolo Ciavola
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(6), 1003; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12061003 - 16 Jun 2024
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 2597
Abstract
The present study investigates different combinations and methods for estimating the extreme Total Water Level (TWL) and its implications for predicting flood extension caused by coastal storms. This study analyses various TWL components and approaches and assesses how different methodologies alter flood predictions, [...] Read more.
The present study investigates different combinations and methods for estimating the extreme Total Water Level (TWL) and its implications for predicting flood extension caused by coastal storms. This study analyses various TWL components and approaches and assesses how different methodologies alter flood predictions, with implications for warning systems and emergency responses. Using different combinations of individual TWL components, flood extension simulations were conducted using a hydrodynamic model in the Volano Beach area (Emilia-Romagna, Italy). A real coastal storm event was used as a reference for comparison. The findings indicate that the selection of individual TWL components and calculation methods significantly impacts flood extension predictions. The approaches, which involve calculating extreme values from a combined time series or the water level time series plus the extreme value of wave setup, yield the most realistic results, excluding the runup component. In comparison, the other combinations overestimate the flood. Incorporating hydromorphological models like XBeach could enhance the accuracy of runup estimations and improve the overall method reliability. Despite limitations such as runup estimation and the use of generic regional parameters, this study underscores the importance of the TWL combination selection in accurately predicting flood extents, emphasising the need for context-specific adaptations in environmental contexts. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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