Search Results (113)

Photoaging, predominantly induced by ultraviolet radiation, is a primary driver of premature skin aging, characterized by complex molecular mechanisms including oxidative stress, inflammation, matrix metalloproteinase activation, and extracellular matrix degradation. Consequently, there is growing scientific interest in identifying effective natural agents to counteract skin aging and photoaging. Djulis (Chenopodium formosanum), an indigenous Taiwanese pseudocereal from the Amaranthaceae family, has emerged as a promising candidate for skincare applications because of its rich phytochemicals and diverse bioactivities. This review describes the current understanding of the molecular mechanisms underlying photoaging and examines the therapeutic potential of djulis extract as a multifunctional agent for skin aging. Its mechanisms of action include enhancing antioxidant defenses, modulating inflammatory pathways, preserving the extracellular matrix, and inhibiting the formation of advanced glycation end products. Bioactive constituents of djulis extract, including phenolic compounds, flavonoids, and betanin, are known to exhibit potent antioxidant and photoprotective activities by modulating multiple molecular pathways essential for skin protection. The bioactivities of djulis in in vitro and animal studies, and four skin clinical trials of djulis extract products are presented in this review article. Ultimately, this review provides an overview that supports the potential of djulis extract in the development of evidence-based skincare formulations for the prevention and treatment of skin aging. Full article

A number of marine resources have been exploited for a long time. Examples include Fucus and Laminaria, from which gelling agents are extracted. Only a few hundred thousand marine species are currently known, representing a tiny fraction of the estimated total of between 700,000 and one million species. This opens up numerous possibilities for innovation in the cosmetics industry. In this study, we present various species that are currently under-exploited, but which could have applications in hydration and photoprotection, for example. Algae and microalgae are worthy of interest because they can be used for hydration and anti-ageing purposes. Collagen can be extracted from animal sources and used as a substitute for collagen of bovine origin. From a marketing perspective, it is possible to market it as ‘marine collagen’. However, it is imperative to emphasize the significance of ensuring the sustainability of the resource. In accordance with this imperative, algae that are capable of being cultivated are distinguished by their enhanced qualities. Full article

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation drives skin photodamage, prompting exploration of natural therapeutics. This study investigated the reparative effects and mechanisms of crude Gastrodia elata polysaccharides (GP) on UVB-induced acute skin damage. GP was extracted from fresh G. elata via water extraction and alcohol precipitation. It is a homogeneous polysaccharide with a weight-average molecular weight of 808.863 kDa, comprising Ara, Glc, Fru, and GalA. Histopathological analysis revealed that topical application of GP on the dorsal skin of mice effectively restored normal physiological structure, suppressing epidermal hyperplasia and collagen degradation. Biochemical assays showed that GP significantly reduced the activities of MPO and MDA following UVB exposure while restoring the enzymatic activities of SOD and GSH, thereby mitigating oxidative stress. Moreover, GP treatment markedly upregulated the anti-inflammatory cytokines TGF-β and IL-10 and downregulated the pro-inflammatory mediators IL-6, IL-1β, and TNF-α, suggesting robust anti-inflammatory effects. Transcriptomics revealed dual-phase mechanisms: Early repair (day 5) involved GP-mediated suppression of hyper inflammation and accelerated necrotic tissue clearance via pathway network modulation. Late phase (day 18) featured enhanced anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and tissue regeneration processes through energy-sufficient, low-inflammatory pathway networks. Through a synergistic response involving antioxidation, anti-inflammation, promotion of collagen synthesis, and acceleration of skin barrier repair, GP achieves comprehensive repair of UVB-induced acute skin damage. Our findings not only establish GP as a potent natural alternative to synthetic photoprotective agents but also reveal novel pathway network interactions governing polysaccharide-mediated skin regeneration. Full article

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores a curated selection of medicinal plants widely used or emerging in dermocosmetics, highlighting their phytochemical composition, mechanisms of action, and experimental support. A narrative literature review was conducted using databases such as PubMed and Scopus, targeting studies on topical cosmetic applications. Results show that many officinal plants, including Camellia sinensis, Panax ginseng, and Mentha piperita, offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and anti-aging benefits. Less conventional species, such as Drosera ramentacea and Kigelia africana, demonstrated depigmenting and wound-healing potential. In particular, bioactive constituents like flavonoids, iridoids, saponins, and polyphenols act on key skin targets such as COX-2, MMPs, tyrosinase, and the Nrf2 pathway. These findings underscore the potential of botanical extracts to serve as effective, natural, and multifunctional agents in modern skincare. While only Mentha piperita is currently recognized as a traditional herbal medicinal product for dermatological use, this research supports the broader dermocosmetic integration of these species. Full article

This study presents the first comprehensive theoretical investigation of the antioxidant mechanisms of trans-isoferulic acid against hydroperoxyl (HOO^•) radicals in aqueous solution, using the DFT/M062X/6-311+G(d,p)/PCM method. Thermodynamic and kinetic parameters, including reaction energy barriers and bimolecular rate constants, were determined for the three major pathways: hydrogen transfer (HT), radical adduct formation (RAF), and single electron transfer (SET). The results indicate that, at physiological pH, the RAF mechanism is both more exergonic and approximately eight-times faster than HT. At a higher pH, where the phenolate anion dominates, antioxidant activity is enhanced by an additional fast, diffusion-limited SET pathway. Isoferulic acid was also found to effectively chelate Fe²⁺ ions at pH 7.4 and above, forming stable complexes that could inhibit Fenton-type hydroxyl radical generation. Moreover, its strong UV absorption suggests a role in limiting photo-induced free radical formation. These findings not only clarify the antioxidant behavior of isoferulic acid but also provide novel theoretical insights applicable to related phenolic compounds. The compound’s multi-target antioxidant profile highlights its potential as a photoprotective agent in sunscreen formulations. Full article

People are paying more and more attention to their physical appearance. One way is the use of cosmetics containing antioxidants that slow down the skin ageing process. The application of photoprotective agents is another factor that protects the skin against ageing. Preparations based on natural raw materials are considered to be more safe. The evaluation of both antioxidant and photoprotective potential seems to be of interest for formulating new cosmetics. The aim of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and in vitro photoprotective potential of Lavandula angustifolia alcoholic extracts. Two methods, i.e., DPPH and ABTS, based on spectrophotometric analysis were applied to determine antioxidant activity. Additionally, the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) of these extracts was determined and a correlation between this parameter and the antioxidant potential of the extracts was also evaluated. The extracts of dry flowers and herbs of lavender were prepared using ultrasound-assisted extraction. As extractants, four short-chain alcohols, i.e., methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, and isopropanol, in three concentrations were applied to obtain the extracts. To evaluate the stability of the extracts, the determination of antioxidant activity by the DPPH and ABTS methods as well as the SPF value in vitro were performed twice: immediately after the preparation of the extracts and twelve months later. Moreover, the GC-MS analysis of certain extracts was also performed. In extracts made in diluted alcohols, a higher antioxidant potential was observed. A similar observation was made for the in vitro SPF determination. A significant correlation was seen between the antioxidant activity determined by the ABTS method and SPF (for herbs analysed immediately after extract preparation and twelve months later, r = 0.713 and 0.936, respectively, and for flower extracts, r = 0.640 and 0.801, respectively). For the DPPH method, a significant correlation was found only for herb extracts (r = 0.520 and 0.623, respectively). In general, slightly higher antioxidant or photoprotective in vitro potential were observed in later-analysed extracts. However, no significant differences were noted between the antioxidant activity or the photoprotection factor of the extracts determined immediately after their preparation and twelve months later, except for the flower extracts evaluated using the DPPH method (p < 0.0001). A very high correlation was found between the SPF values for both herb and flower extracts evaluated immediately and twelve months later, r = 0.953 and 0.899, respectively. Based on the obtained results, the extracts of Lavandula angustifolia Hidcote Blue variety could be considered as a possible component of anti-ageing cosmetics. Full article

The depletion of the ozone layer and climate change have increased exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving the search for natural photoprotective agents. Marine macroalgae, particularly Gracilaria sp. (Rhodophyta) and Sargassum polyceratium (Ochrophyta), are rich in UV-absorbing bioactives, such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and fucoxanthin, offering natural alternatives to synthetic sunscreens. This study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion incorporating both algal extracts, with MAAs and fucoxanthin strategically distributed in the aqueous and oil phases, respectively, to enhance synergistic broad-spectrum UV protection. MAAs were quantified in Gracilaria sp. using UHPLC-DAD, revealing 8.03 mg/g dry weight, primarily composed of shinorine and porphyra-334. Fucoxanthin was identified in S. polyceratium at 0.98 mg/g dry weight. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) was employed to optimize the nanoemulsion, targeting minimal droplet size and optimal ζ potential. The resulting formulation achieved a droplet size less than 100 nm and a ζ potential less than −25.0 mV. In vitro spectrophotometric analysis demonstrated significant photoprotective potential. The nanoemulsion containing only 375 ppm of algal extracts exhibited a UVA ratio of 1.25 and a critical wavelength of 379 nm, meeting the criteria for broad-spectrum protection and outperforming the commercial natural filter Helioguard^®365. These results confirm the efficacy of combining red and brown algae extracts in a nanoemulsion platform to deliver sustainable, low-dose photoprotection. This work presents, for the first time, the incorporation of red and brown algae extracts into a single nanoemulsion system, representing a novel strategy to maximize the combined photoprotective potential of MAAs and fucoxanthin. Ultimately, this investigation contributes to the growing field of marine-derived sunscreens and supports the advancement of “blue beauty” innovations aligned with eco-conscious formulation principles. Full article

Skin photoaging, driven primarily by ultraviolet radiation, remains a critical dermatological concern. Carotenoids, a class of natural pigments with potent antioxidant properties, have emerged as promising agents for preventing and mitigating photoaging. This review comprehensively integrates current understanding regarding the triggers of skin photoaging, oxidative stress and their associated signal pathways, the photoprotective roles and mechanisms of carotenoids, as well as their bioavailability. Common C₄₀ carotenoids, such as β-carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, lutein, and zeaxanthin demonstrate remarkable antioxidant activity, primarily attributed to their conjugated double bond structures. Many studies have demonstrated that both oral and topical administration of these C₄₀ carotenoids can effectively alleviate skin photoaging. Specifically, they play a crucial role in promoting the formation of a new skin barrier and enhancing the production of collagen and elastin, key structural proteins essential for maintaining skin integrity and elasticity. Mechanistically, these carotenoids combat photoaging by effectively scavenging reactive oxygen species and modulating oxidative stress responsive signal pathways, including MAPK, Nrf2, and NF-κB. Notably, we also anticipate the anti-photoaging potential of novel carotenoids, with a particular emphasis on bacterioruberin, a C₅₀ carotenoid derived from halophilic archaea. Bacterioruberin exhibits a superior radical scavenging capacity, outperforming the conventional C₄₀ carotenoids. Furthermore, when considering the application of carotenoids, aspects such as safe dosage, bioavailability, and possible long term usage issues, including allergies and pigmentation disorders, must be taken into account. This review underscores the anti-photoaging mechanism of carotenoids, providing strategies and theoretical basis for the prevention and treatment of photoaging. Full article

The harmful effects of solar radiation on the skin are known and scientifically proven, with recent studies indicating that not only ultraviolet (UV) radiation but also infrared (IR) radiation contributes to skin photoaging and increases the risk of carcinogenesis. Infrared radiation is also responsible for the degradation of protective carotenoids in the skin, the disruption of calcium homeostasis, and the activation of apoptosis pathways. The biological mechanisms underlying these effects include an increased level of reactive oxygen species and increased expression of metalloproteinases in the skin. The aim of this study was to evaluate the photoprotective properties of 10 cold-pressed plant oils in the infrared spectral range from 1000 nm to 2500 nm by assessing their impact on the directional–hemispherical reflectance (DHR) of human skin after their topical application. This study was conducted in vivo on the skin of 12 volunteers, with non-invasive DHR measurements taken before and directly after the application of the oil and 30 min later. Additionally, the correlation between the oil’s compounds (chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b, lycopene, and β-carotene) and antioxidant activity, expressed as the DPPH free radical scavenging capacity, was analyzed in relation to the differences in the skin’s DHR observed. An interesting result was obtained in the context of protecting the skin against IR radiation. A statistically significant increase in the skin’s reflectance after the penetration of the oil (p < 0.05) was observed in the 1700–2500 nm range for the chokeberry, fig, pomegranate, and perilla oils, suggesting their potential as photoprotective agents against IR. These findings indicate that chokeberry, fig, pomegranate, and perilla oils may serve as ingredients in cosmetic formulations designed for broad-spectrum skin photoprotection, complementing traditional UV filters with additional protection against infrared radiation. However, further research is needed to confirm these findings in a larger population. Full article

Background/Objectives: This study explores the bioactive potential of Bovistella utriformis biomass and its polysaccharides (PsBu) through comprehensive biochemical and bioactivity analyses, focusing on their antioxidant, cytotoxic, and antihyperglycemic properties. Methods: Elemental analysis determined the biomass’s chemical composition. Antioxidant activity was assessed using ABTS and DPPH assays. Monosaccharide composition was analyzed via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). In vitro cytotoxicity assays were conducted on cancer and normal cell lines to determine IC₅₀ values and selectivity indices (SI). Zebrafish embryo toxicity was evaluated for teratogenic effects, and an in vivo antihyperglycemic study was performed in diabetic rat models. Results: The biomass exhibited high carbon content (around 41%) and nitrogen levels, with a balanced C/N ratio nearing 5. Protein content exceeded 50%, alongside significant carbohydrate, fiber, and ash levels. Antioxidant assays revealed inhibition rates of approximately 89% (ABTS) and 64% (DPPH). GC-MS analysis identified glucose as the predominant sugar (>80%), followed by galactose and mannose. Additionally, HPLC detected a photoprotective compound, potentially a mycosporin-like amino acid. Cytotoxicity assays demonstrated PsBu’s selective activity against colon, lung, and melanoma cancer cell lines (IC₅₀: 100–500 µg·mL⁻¹), while effects on normal cell lines were lower (IC₅₀ > 1300 µg·mL⁻¹ for HaCaT, >2500 µg·mL⁻¹ for HGF-1), with SI values approaching 27, supporting PsBu’s potential as a targeted anticancer agent. Zebrafish embryo assays yielded LC₅₀ values ranging from 1.4 to 1.8 mg·mL⁻¹. In vivo, PsBu reduced fasting blood glucose levels in hyperglycemic rats (approximately 210 mg·dL⁻¹ vs. 230 mg·dL⁻¹ in controls) and preserved pancreatic β-cell integrity (around 80% vs. 65% in controls). Conclusions: These findings suggest that B. utriformis biomass and PsBu exhibit strong antioxidant activity, selective cytotoxicity against cancer cells, and antihyperglycemic potential, making them promising candidates for further biomedical applications. Full article

Bromelain, a natural enzyme derived from pineapple, is known for its antioxidant properties, and its potential as a photoprotective agent has garnered interest in skincare applications. The primary objective of this research was to evaluate and optimize the effectiveness of bromelain-based creams in providing antioxidant and photoprotective protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Antioxidant activity was assessed using the DPPH radical scavenging assay, and the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was determined in vitro and in vivo to evaluate photoprotective activity. The results revealed that bromelain exhibited strong antioxidant activity. Photoprotection, as measured by SPF, the formulation F3, which combined bromelain with other UV filters, exhibited the highest SPF values of 22.043 ± 0.277 (in vitro) and 21.3 ± 2.901 (in vivo), indicating enhanced photoprotective efficacy. This improvement in SPF was likely due to the synergistic effect of bromelain with the UV filters Octyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC). The findings suggest a positive correlation between antioxidant activity and photoprotection, with bromelain’s antioxidant properties contributing to its overall photoprotective effect. Bromelain may be used on people without causing skin or eye irritation. This study supports the potential of bromelain-based creams as dual-action skincare formulations, offering both antioxidant and UV protection. Full article

Antioxidants are indispensable in protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pollution, and lifestyle-related influences. This review examines the essential role of antioxidants in modern cosmetology, highlighting their dual functionality as protective agents and active components in skincare formulations. Oxidative stress, primarily driven by an imbalance between reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and the skin’s defense mechanisms, accelerates aging processes, damages cellular structures, and compromises skin integrity. Antioxidants, whether natural or synthetic, act by neutralizing ROS, reducing inflammation, and promoting cellular repair, effectively mitigating these harmful effects. This comprehensive analysis synthesizes findings from 280 studies accessed via key databases, including PubMed, Scopus, and ScienceDirect. It investigates the biochemical mechanisms of antioxidant activity, emphasizing compounds such as vitamins (C, E, A), carotenoids, polyphenols, peptides, and minerals, alongside bioactive extracts derived from algae, fungi, lichens, and plants. Carotenoids, including ꞵ-carotene, lutein, lycopene, and astaxanthin, demonstrate potent antioxidant activity, making them crucial for photoprotection and anti-aging. Phenolic compounds, such as ferulic acid, resveratrol, hesperidin, and xanthohumol, play a significant role in neutralizing oxidative stress and improving skin health. This review also highlights bioactives from algae, fungi, and lichens. Algae, particularly microalgae like Haematococcus pluvialis, known for astaxanthin production, are highlighted for their extraordinary photoprotective and anti-aging properties. Brown algae (Fucus vesiculosus) and red algae (Porphyra) provide polysaccharides and bioactive molecules that enhance hydration and barrier function. Fungi contribute a wealth of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds, including polysaccharides, ꞵ-glucans, and enzymes, which support cellular repair and protect against oxidative damage. Lichens, through unique phenolic metabolites, offer potent free-radical-scavenging properties and serve as effective ingredients in formulations targeting environmental stress. Plant-derived antioxidants offer a diverse range of benefits. Plant-derived antioxidants, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, and carotenoids, further amplify skin resilience, hydration, and repair mechanisms, aligning with the growing demand for nature-inspired solutions in cosmetics. The integration of these diverse natural sources into cosmetic formulations reflects the industry’s commitment to sustainability, innovation, and efficacy. By harnessing the synergistic potential of bioactives from algae, fungi, lichens, and plants, modern cosmetology is advancing toward multifunctional, health-conscious, and eco-friendly products. Future research directions include optimizing delivery systems for these bioactives, enhancing their stability and bioavailability, and expanding their applications to meet evolving dermatological challenges. Full article

Nanoemulsions are significant for cosmetic products intended for skin care and for health products due to the reduced size (range 20 to 500 nm) of the globules, which avoids processes of instability. They present transparency, fluidity, wettability, and spreadability; increase skin penetration; and have good sensation. The main instability mechanism of nanoemulsions is called Ostwald ripening, responsible for increasing the average diameter of emulsion globules. Sesame Seed Oil (SO) and Raspberry Seed Oil (RO) are indicated as moisturizing agents recently used in the cosmetic industry and for reducing transepidermal water loss, preventing damage to the skin barrier. They contain specific compounds with common properties such as antioxidant, moisturizing, emollient, and photoprotective actions, making them attractive alternative and complementary treatments to soften the process of skin aging. Below, we present the results of this research on the development of nanoemulsions containing Sesame Seed Oil added with Raspberry Seed Oil by the low-energy method. SO nanoemulsions at HLB = 8.0 were obtained with PEG 15 castor oil (A) and PEG 30 castor oil (F.80) and had globule sizes of 50 nm and 200 nm, respectively, along with pH values considered suitable for skin care products and lower viscosity values allowing for the easy application of nanoemulsions to the skin. Nanoemulsions A and F.80 showed antioxidant activities of 68.71% and 67.75%, respectively. SO nanoemulsions with PEG 15 and PEG 30 castor oil were obtained at 85 °C and 75 °C, respectively, and have the lowest Ostwald ripening index (1.33 × 10²² m³ s⁻¹). The in vitro evaluation conducted using the HET-CAM method for nanoemulsions and PEG 15 and PEG 30 castor oils showed that they were slightly irritating and could be used in cosmetic products. Full article

Substances that delay the skin aging process have become very popular lately. Undoubtedly, this is influenced by all kinds of efforts to maintain a youthful appearance for as long as possible. Plant-derived antioxidants are a group of compounds that exhibit protective properties against the degenerative effects of oxidative stress on skin aging. Another important factor that protects skin against aging is photoprotective agents. The comparison of antioxidant and photoprotective activities seems to be interesting. The aim of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant properties of Pinus strobus, Pinus nigra, and Pinus mugo extracts using two frequently applied methods, i.e., DPPH and ABTS. Moreover, the polyphenol content was evaluated using Folin–Ciocalteu method. The correlation between the polyphenol content, antioxidant potential of the extracts, and sun protection factor in vitro was evaluated. Extracts were prepared using methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, and n-propanol in three concentrations: 40% (v/v), 70% (v/v), and undiluted. Ultrasound-assisted extraction, which is a type of green extraction technique, was applied for 15, 30, or 60 min. The highest antioxidant activity determined by the DPPH and ABTS methods was observed for Pinus mugo extracts in 40% ethanol and 40% methanol, respectively, both after 15 min extraction. The highest total polyphenol content was also found in Pinus mugo extracts. These activities were significantly higher than those of Pinus strobus and Pinus nigra. Similarly, the highest SPF values were also found for Pinus mugo extracts. Moreover, a strong correlation was observed between the antioxidant potential and SPF—the highest values were found for the correlation between the SPF and antioxidant activity determined using the ABTS method. Based on the obtained results, Pinus mugo could be suggested as a possible component for use in cosmetics. Full article

Green tea catechins (GTCs) are a group of bioactive polyphenolic compounds found in fresh tea leaves (Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Kuntze). They have garnered significant attention due to their diverse health benefits and potential therapeutic applications, including as antioxidant and sunscreen agents. Human skin serves as the primary barrier against various external aggressors, including pathogens, pollutants, and harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by intrinsic factors such as genetics and hormonal changes, as well as extrinsic factors like environmental stressors, among which UVR plays a pivotal role in accelerating skin aging and contributing to various dermatological conditions. Research has demonstrated that GTCs possess potent antioxidant properties that help neutralize free radicals generated by oxidative stress. This action not only mitigates cellular damage but also supports the repair mechanisms inherent in human skin. Furthermore, GTCs exhibit anti-carcinogenic effects by inhibiting pathways involved in tumor promotion and progression. GTCs have been shown to exert anti-inflammatory effects through modulation of inflammatory signaling pathways. Chronic inflammation is known to contribute significantly to both premature aging and various dermatological diseases such as psoriasis or eczema. By regulating these pathways effectively, GTCs may alleviate symptoms associated with inflammatory conditions. GTCs can enhance wound healing processes by stimulating angiogenesis. They also facilitate DNA repair mechanisms within dermal fibroblasts exposed to damaging agents. The photoprotective properties attributed to GTCs further underscore their relevance in skincare formulations aimed at preventing sun-induced damage. Their ability to screen UV light helps shield underlying tissues from harmful rays. This review paper aims to comprehensively examine the beneficial effects of GTCs on skin health through an analysis encompassing in vivo and in vitro studies alongside insights into molecular mechanisms underpinning these effects. Such knowledge could pave the way for the development of innovative strategies focused on harnessing natural compounds like GTCs for improved skincare solutions tailored to combat environmental stresses faced by the human epidermis. Full article