Search Results (18)

In a coastal engineering project, hydrodynamic models are used to study wave transformations and impacts on structures, while morphodynamic models are applied to calculate the response and evolution of sedimentary beaches. Conventionally, laboratory experiments and numerical modeling have been called to investigate beach changes, particularly those resulting in the formation of an embayed beach. The former is undertaken in a wave basin, necessitating a huge outdoor facility to fit a project with large dimensions, numerous instrumentations, and manpower, while the latter is performed by powerful numerical models on a desktop, requiring only the advent of computing power and professional skills. Conventionally, both approaches have successfully achieved the expected outcome, though differing in cost and time frame. On the contrary, an efficient empirical geomorphic model for headland-bay beaches has been available since 1989 for assessing the planform stability of a crenulated beach in static equilibrium. The model can readily produce a graphic display of the static bay shape aided by a supporting software within a shorter time frame (in a couple of minutes), instead of in hours or days in laboratory tests and numerical modeling. Several practical examples drawn by the software MeePaSoL for the empirical model are presented to complement the results of a morphodynamic model in a wave basin, as well as to guide the modeler to terminate the programming when equilibrium is reached. We believe this alternative approach could be helpful for the experimentalists and numerical modelers on large engineering projects associated with shoreline beach evolution and shore protection, especially for time-saving and reducing manpower and cost. Full article

Understanding long-term coastal evolution requires historical data, yet accessing reliable information becomes increasingly challenging for extended periods. While vertical aerial imagery has been extensively used in coastal studies since the mid-20th century, and satellite-derived shoreline measurements are now revolutionizing shoreline change studies, ground-based images, such as historical photographs and picture postcards, provide an alternative source of shoreline data for earlier periods when other datasets are scarce. Despite their frequent use for documenting qualitative morphological changes, these valuable historical data sources have rarely supported quantitative assessments of coastal evolution. This study demonstrates the potential of historical ground-oblique images for quantitatively assessing shoreline position and long-term change. Using Conceição-Duquesa Beach (Cascais, Portugal) as a case study, we analyze shoreline evolution over 92 years by applying a novel methodology to historical photographs and postcards. The approach combines image registration, shoreline detection, coordinate transformation, and rectification while accounting for positional uncertainty. Results reveal a significant counterclockwise rotation of the shoreline between the 20th and 21st centuries, exceeding estimated uncertainty thresholds. This study highlights the feasibility of using historical ground-based imagery to reconstruct shoreline positions and quantify long-term coastal change. The methodology is straightforward, adaptable, and offers a promising avenue for extending the temporal range of shoreline datasets, advancing our understanding of coastal evolution. Full article

Headland and groyne sand bypassing greatly influences embayment dynamics at medium to long timescales, but is often disregarded or partially included in reduced-complexity shoreline models. This study explores how accounting for subaqueous sediment bypassing in a shoreline model affects mean embayed beach planshape and spatial variability. We implement a generic parametrization of sand bypassing in the LX-Shore model, with simulations on a synthetic embayment in two configurations: “full bypassing” (FB) where the sediments bypass the obstacle in the surfzone and beyond, and “shoreline bypassing” (SB) where bypassing occurs only when the shoreline extends beyond the obstacle. Time-invariant wave simulations show significant differences in updrift shoreline position between FB and SB. Simulations with time-varying wave angles and fixed wave height and period reveal that FB significantly impacts the embayment mean planform and spatial variability: FB reduces beach rotation by about 1/3, particularly under slightly oblique and slightly asymmetrical wave climates, and decreases shoreline curvature, especially under highly oblique wave climates. Downdrift shoreline erosion may be overestimated by up to 20% under SB. Our simulations provide new insight into the influence of subaqueous sand bypassing on embayed beach dynamics and emphasize the importance of including this process when modelling shoreline evolution in coastal embayments. Full article

The distribution pattern and the morphology of sandy beaches have been extensively studied, while those in turbid coastal environments near large river estuaries are still unclear. This study analyzes the distribution pattern, morphological characteristics, and influencing factors of Zhejiang sandy beaches using statistical analysis, based on field data and historical records. Results show that the mean grain size distribution of Zhejiang sandy beaches ranges from fine sand to very coarse sand, and the beach slope and sediment grain size correspond well with the wave heights in the three regions of Zhejiang. The extent of beach headlands in central Zhejiang appeared the largest, suggesting an increased susceptibility to wave erosion due to the less sheltered headlands. Most sandy beaches in Zhejiang formed on the islands and the areas far from the estuaries, showing quantity difference in beach distribution. The comparison of the regional difference in Zhejiang sandy beaches shows that embayment is the main factor affecting the beach distribution pattern and morphological characteristics. The different embayment characteristics provide the space for beach formation and the interaction with the coastal process, the sediment supply, the nearshore hydrodynamic environment, and human intervention also have influence on the morphological characteristics of Zhejiang beaches. Full article

The monitoring of beach topographical changes and recovery processes under typhoon storm influence has primarily relied on traditional techniques that lack high spatial resolution. Therefore, we used an unmanned aerial vehicle light detection and ranging (UAV LiDAR) system to obtain the four time periods of topographic data from Tantou Beach, a sandy beach in Xiangshan County, Zhejiang Province, China, to explore beach topography and geomorphology in response to typhoon events. The UAV LiDAR data in four survey periods showed an overall vertical accuracy of approximately 5 cm. Based on the evaluated four time periods of the UAV LiDAR data, we created four corresponding DEMs for the beach. We calculated the DEM of difference (Dod), which showed that the erosion and siltation on Tantou Beach over different temporal scales had a significant alongshore zonal feature with a broad change range. The tidal level significantly impacted beach erosion and siltation changes. However, the storm surge did not affect the beach area above the spring high-tide level. After storms, siltation occurred above the spring high-tide zone. This study reveals the advantage of UAV LiDAR in monitoring beach changes and provides novel insights into the impacts of typhoon storms on coastal topographic and geomorphological change and recovery processes. Full article

In this paper, an improved one-line evolution formulation is proposed and derived for the dynamic shoreline planforms of embayed beaches. Although embayed sandy beaches can perform several functions, serving as leisure spots and areas of coastal protection, shoreline advances and retreats occur continuously as a result of many natural forces, such as winds, waves, currents, tides, etc. The one-line evolution formulation for dynamic shoreline planforms based on the polar coordinate can be adopted to simulate high-planform-curvature shorelines and achieve better stability and simplicity in comparison with other description coordinates. While the polar coordinate and rectangular control volume are adopted to derive the one-line evolution formulation for dynamic shoreline planforms, the difference between the radial direction of the polar coordinate and the normal direction of the shoreline segment may result in inaccurate predictions of shoreline movements. In this study, a correction coefficient, which can adjust the influence of these two misaligned directions, is derived and included in the one-line evolution formulation, which is based on the polar coordinate. Thus, by considering the correction coefficient, an improved one-line evolution formulation for dynamic shoreline planforms of crenulate-shaped bays is proposed in this paper. Some numerical examples are provided to verify the merits of the proposed improved one-line evolution formulation. Moreover, the proposed numerical approach is applied to simulate the dynamic movements of the shoreline in Taitung—the southeastern part of Taiwan—and the effectiveness of the proposed formulation in solving realistic engineering applications is evidently verified. Full article

The morphological responses of two mesotidal beaches located in different coastal settings (embayed and open sandy beaches) on the northwestern Iberian coast were monitored during the winter of 2018/19. The offshore wave time series analysis is related to high-resolution topo-bathymetric measurements to explore spatial-temporal morphological variability at monthly to seasonal scales. Both locations are subjected to the North Atlantic wave climate which exhibits a pronounced seasonality. Throughout the last decade (2010–2020), significant wave heights reached values of up to H_s~9 m during winters and up to H_s~6 m during summers. On average, approximately 12 storms occurred annually in this region. The results clearly reveal divergent morphological responses and sediment transport behaviors at the upper beach and the intertidal zone during the winter for each location. In the embayed beach (Patos), sediment transport in the nearshore is governed by cross-shore processes between the beach berm and a submerged sandbar. In contrast, the open beach (Mira) showed dynamic sediment exchanges and three-dimensional morphologies alternating between accumulation and erosion zones. Overall, both beaches exhibited an erosional trend after the winter, particularly concerning berm erosion and the subaerial beach volume/shoreline retreat. This study highlights the contrasting morphodynamic response on open and embayed beaches to winter conditions, integrating both the subaerial and submerged zones. Local geological and environmental factors, as well as the coastal management strategies applied, will influence how the beach responds to winter wave events. Monitoring and understanding these responses are essential for effective coastal management and adaptation to changing climate. Full article

Since the 1970s, dredging sands have been poured onto the embayed beaches of La Magdalena in the western mouth of the estuarine Bay of Santander (N Spain) in order to increase beach width. Up until the year 2000, the sands were systematically fed by a trailing suction dredge, which was later replaced by truck sand transfers from the surplus sands of the western beach to the eastern ones and by mechanical redistribution to create artificial berms. A recent project aimed to solve sand losses after each storm by building two perpendicular breakwaters about 620 m apart. The eastern breakwater was built in the early summer of 2018, and wave storms in November 2018, February 2019, October 2020 and the last days of 2021 progressively dismantled the reconstructed upper beach areas and eroded other segments. The western breakwater, however, designed to retain the E–W sandy beach drift, was never built. Four photogrammetric restitutions from 2005, 2010, 2014 and 2017 and an aerial LiDAR in 2012 were obtained to better understand the previous topographic distribution of the back and foreshore. Numerous field observations were made, and six field surveys have been performed since 2018 using laser TLS and GNSS, which occurred in November 2018, March 2019, October 2019, March 2020, October 2020 and April 2021. The definitive results of the evolution of the sand loss are presented, a hypothesis is proposed to explain the dynamo-sedimentary trend, in which longitudinal transport dominates promoting the formation in the progress of a new sand beach, and some sustainable solutions are proposed. The results show that the constructive solution has failed to stabilize the beach and that the predictive models that justified it have not coincided with the real dynamic and sedimentary evolution. Full article

Monitoring and analysis of changes in the volume and area of nourished beaches is crucial to inform any beach renourishment programme. The aim of this study is to utilise UAV surveys and SfM photogrammetry to assess the beach nourishment performance of an artificial gravel beach exposed to a range of external forcing, including storms. The paper presents results from nineteen UAV surveys conducted between January 2020 and January 2021 at Ploče, an artificial beach in Rijeka (Croatia). The beach was nourished twice and eleven storm events, ranging from weak to strong, were recorded during this period. The Agisoft Metashape software was used to obtain point clouds and digital elevation models (DEMs) from UAV images; Matlab and CloudCompare were used for further analysis of the DEMs. The accuracy and precision of the DEMs was assessed and uncertainty levels of ±5 cm were applied to all derived DEMs. The study provides new insights into the response of the emerged part of the beach to storms. Predictably, the largest changes were recorded after the first storm following beach nourishment. The longshore variability in the beach response to storms was identified from full 3D point clouds. Most of the lost sediment was from the east side of the beach, while the rest of the beach aligned with the predominant wave direction through cross-shore and longshore processes. Offshore/onshore sediment exchange between the lower and upper beach face on the western side manifested itself in beach profile steepening and berm formations. Overall, changes in beach volume and area were small, indicating that this artificial beach is relatively stable. The embayed layout following the natural coastal configuration appears to be effective in retaining nourished sediment on the beach. This work highlights the need to consider pocket embayed beaches in three dimensions, as traditional transect studies can overlook the three-dimensional behaviour. This study also highlighted the wider potential of UAVs and SfM for studies of high-resolution elevation changes on natural and artificial beaches, as well as for coastal monitoring of beach nourishment. Full article

The present study focuses on the long-term multi-year evolution of the shoreline position of the Nha Trang sandy beach. To this end an empirical model which is a combination of longshore and cross-shore models, is used. The Nha Trang beach morphology is driven by a tropical wave climate dominated by seasonal variations and winter monsoon intra-seasonal pulses. The combined model accounts for seasonal shoreline evolution, which is primarily attributed to cross-shore dynamics but fails to represent accretion that occurs during the height of summer under low energy conditions. The reason is in the single equilibrium Dean number ${\mathsf{\Omega }}_{eq}$ of the ShoreFor model, one of the components of the combined model. This equilibrium Dean number cannot simultaneously account for the evolution of strong intra-seasonal events (i.e., winter monsoon pulses) and the annual recovery mechanisms associated with swash transport. By assigning a constant value to ${\mathsf{\Omega }}_{eq}$, when the surf similarity parameter is higher than $3.3$ (occurrence of small surging breakers in summer), we strongly improve the shoreline position prediction. This clearly points to the relevance of a multi-scale approach, although our modified ${\mathsf{\Omega }}_{eq}$ retains the advantage of simplicity. Full article

Beaches responses to storms, as well as their potential adaptation to the foreseeable sea level rise (SLR), were investigated along three beaches in a coastal tract in western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea). The grain size of the sediments, the beach profile variability and the wave climate were analyzed in order to relate morphological changes, geological inheritances and waves forcing. Multibeam, single-beam and lidar data were used to characterize the inner shelf morphologies and to reproduce the flooding due to the SLR. The studied beaches experienced major changes when consecutive storms, rather than singles ones, occurred along the coastline. The sediment availability, the grain size and the geomorphological structure of the beaches were the most important factors influencing the beach response. On the sediment-deprived coarse beaches the headlands favor the beach rotation, and the gravel barrier morphology can increase the resistance against storms. On the sediment-abundant beaches, the cross-shore sediment transport towards a submerged area leads to a lowering in the subaerial beach level and a contemporaneous shoreline retreat in response to storms. A very limited ingression of the sea is related to the SLR. This process may affect (i) the gravel barrier, promoting a roll over due to the increase in overwash; (ii) the embayed beach increasing its degree of embayment as headlands become more prominent, and (iii) the sediment-abundant beach with an erosion of the whole subaerial beach during storms, which can also involve the foredune area. Full article

Extreme wind-driven storm events have the potential to erode beach systems. Along the East Coast of Australia, storm events have been responsible for beach erosion in many coast-facing, open beaches. This paper investigates the potential impacts of wind-driven storms on partly sheltered estuarine beaches—a niche found within Batemans Bay, New South Wales (NSW), along the East Coast. It combines beach geomorphological data with meteorological and oceanographic data to evaluate the impacts of large storm events on three partly sheltered estuarine embayed beaches (Cullendulla Beach, Corrigans Beach, and Maloney’s Beach). The results show that while embayed beaches are protected from some storm events, storm impacts may vary with the season due to wind speed and direction changes, the presence of nearby rivers or creeks, and anthropogenic modifications such as dredging and coastline alterations. This study may contribute to the understanding of the erosive impacts of storms and help improve management strategies used to prevent recession, particularly on embayed beaches. Full article

Headland rips, sometimes referred to as boundary rips, are rip currents flowing against natural or artificial obstructions extending seaward from the beach, such as headland or groynes. They can be driven either by the deflection of the longshore current against the obstacle or by alongshore variation in breaking wave height due to wave shadowing in the lee of the obstacle. The driving mechanism therefore essentially depends on the angle of wave incidence with respect to the natural or artificial obstruction. We analyze 42 days of velocity profile measurements against a natural headland at the high-energy meso-macrotidal beach of Anglet, southwest France. Measurements were collected in 6.5–10.5-m depth as tide elevation varied, during the autumn–winter period with offshore significant wave height and period ranging 0.9–6 m and 8–16 s, respectively, and the angle of wave incidence ranging from −20 ${}^{\circ }$ to 20 ${}^{\circ }$ . Here we analyze deflection rip configurations, corresponding to approximately 24 days of measurements, for which the current meter was alternatively located in the rip neck, rip head or away from the rip as wave and tide conditions changed. Deflection rips were associated with large offshore-directed velocities (up to 0.6 m/s depth-averaged velocities) and tide modulation for low- to moderate-energy waves. The vertical profile of deflection rips was found to vary from depth-uniform in the rip neck to strongly depth-varying further offshore in the rip head with maximum velocities near the surface. Very low frequency motions of the rip were dramatic, ranging 10–60 min with a dominant peak period of approximately 40 min, i.e., with longer periods than commonly reported. The strong offshore-directed velocities measured well beyond the surf zone edge provide new insight into deflection rips as a dominant mechanism for water and sediment exchanges between embayed (or structurally-controlled) beaches and the inner-shelf and/or the adjacent embayments. Full article

Foredunes are important features within coastal landscapes, yet there are relatively few medium to long-term studies on how they evolve and change over time. This study of Australia’s New South Wales (NSW) foredunes has used 70 years of aerial photographs (or photogrammetry) and recent Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) datasets to assess multi-decadal fluctuations in foredune morphology. It was shown that over the past 70 years NSW foredunes have exhibited considerable spatial variation, ranging from accretion/aggradation to recession. Those sites that accreted predominantly extended seaward as new incipient dunes, gaining a maximum of 235 m³ m⁻¹ in sand volume over the study period (for the entire dune system). These sites were commonly found in the north of the state, within closed sediment compartments, and with strong onshore (and alongshore) wind climates present (increasing the potential for aeolian sand transport). Stable foredunes were those that remained within +/− 50 m³ m⁻¹ of their initial volume and managed to recover from the various storm impacts over the study period. The majority of these sites were found within the central to southern half of the state, behind embayed beaches, and within leaky sediment compartments, or those that have estuarine sinks. Finally, those foredunes in recession have retreated landwards and/or have reduced in height or width, and lost up to 437 m³ m⁻¹ of sand volume over the study period. There was no clear spatial trend for these sites; however, generally they were found in compartments that had unusual orientations, had disruptions in longshore drift/cross shore sand delivery (i.e., rocky reefs), or were being impacted by humans (i.e., the installation of river training walls, sand bypassing systems, or coastal management programs). This study has shown that NSW foredunes have undergone substantial recent changes and, by understanding their past history, will provide better insight into how they can be managed into the future. Full article

The objective of the present study is to achieve a better understanding of the possible rotation of embayed beaches using shoreline position data from two beaches on the central Tyrrhenian Sea (Italy) during a 64-year period. With this aim, this study tests the utility of Differential Global Positioning System (DGPS) and GPS RTK (Real Time Kinematic) dual-frequency navigation system for the in situ surveys, low-altitude aerial imagery collected by Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV), and satellite polarimetric Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) measurements. The dataset consists of aerial photographs and orthophotos, DGPS, and remote surveys performed by UAV and SAR platform in 2018 along with wave data coming from the Ponza buoy. The results of the field data analysis explained a part of the beach variations in terms of coastline rotation around a virtual pivotal point. This rotation has been correlated with the wave directional shift in the recent period. The results of the comparison between the different techniques gave the possibility to investigate the limitations of remote survey methods for the identification of shoreline rotation. Full article