Search Results (146)

The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific sun protection products remains underexplored. This study aims to analyze technological trends and innovations in lip photoprotection by reviewing patents published between 2014 and 2024. A comprehensive patent search using the IPC code A61Q19 and the keywords “lip” and “sunscreen” identified 17 relevant patents across China, the United States, and Japan. The patents were examined for active ingredients, formulation strategies, and use of botanical or sustainable excipients. The findings revealed that patented formulations predominantly rely on well-established UV filters such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, octyl methoxycinnamate, and avobenzone, often combined with antioxidants like ferulic acid and rutin for enhanced efficacy. Lipid-based excipients were widely used to improve texture, hydration, and product stability. Although many formulations exhibit a conservative ingredient profile, the strategic combination of UV filters with natural antioxidants and moisturizing lipids demonstrates a multifunctional approach aimed at enhancing both protection and user experience. Full article

Helianthus annuus L. (H. annuus) receptacles, a major agricultural by-product generated during seed processing, are currently underutilized. This study aimed to explore the valorization potential of this by-product by extracting H. annuus receptacles total polysaccharides (HRTP) and characterizing their potential as natural ingredients in ultraviolet (UV)-protective cosmetics. A new purified polysaccharide named H. annuus receptacles polysaccharide-1 (HRP-1) was isolated, likely exhibiting a backbone of alternating →4)-α-D-GalA-(1→ and →4)-α-D-GalA(6-OCH₃)-(1→ units, with a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of 163 kDa. HRTP demonstrated significant protective effects against UV-induced damage in human immortalized keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells by suppressing intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels and downregulating MAPK-p38/ERK/JNK pathways, thereby inhibiting inflammatory cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8, and TNF-α) and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9). Additionally, HRTP exhibited moisturizing properties. These findings highlight H. annuus receptacle polysaccharides as sustainable, bioactive ingredients for eco-friendly sunscreen formulations, providing a practical approach to converting agricultural by-products into high-value industrial biomaterials. Full article

The aim of this study was to elucidate all the degradation byproducts (DBPs) of bemotrizinol (BEMT) that are associated with sodium hypochlorite treatment. BEMT is a UV filter that is found not only in many personal care products, such as sunscreen and cosmetics, but also as an additive in plastics or clothing to protect them from damage that results from absorbed radiation. BEMT has been detected in wastewater, surface water, and some lake sediments, in quantities from a few ng/L to hundreds of ng/L, to such an extent that, today, it is considered an emerging pollutant. In this study, the UV filter was subjected to oxidation with sodium hypochlorite, which is an oxidant at the base of the disinfection process that is used in most wastewater treatment plants or in swimming pools. Using different chromatographic methods (CC, TLC, HPLC, and GC), the resulting DBP mixture was separated into its main components, which were then identified using one- and two-dimensional nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy and mass spectrometry. Nineteen DBPs were isolated, and a plausible reaction mechanism was proposed to explain how they were obtained. Full article

The use of UV filters is a well-established strategy for preventing skin cancer and photoaging. Among inorganic filters, titanium dioxide (TiO₂) provides excellent protection against both UVA and UVB radiation. Moreover, the use of such inorganic filters at the nano-sized scale has increased their acceptability because it ensures the cosmetically desired transparency in sunscreens that consumers demand. However, concerns remain regarding the potential toxicity of TiO₂ nanoparticles, and discussion about their use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics is still in progress. Their increased (bio)reactivity compared to bulk materials may lead to DNA damage. Furthermore, their capacity to cross dermal, respiratory, and gastrointestinal membranes remains a subject of debate. This study is therefore designed to assess and contrast the toxicological characteristics of a pair of commercially available titanium (IV) oxide sunscreens differing in particle size—microscale versus nanoscale. First, the morphology and hydrodynamic diameter of the TiO₂ nanoparticles were characterized. Then, potential interactions and/or interferences of these nanoparticles with the methods used to evaluate cytotoxic behavior were studied. Finally, the hemocompatibility, cytotoxicity, phototoxicity, and genotoxicity of both micro- and nano-sized TiO₂ were evaluated using human keratinocytes. Full article

With the increase in biodiesel production experienced in the last decades, biomass-derived glycerol is obtained at a high rate, so glycerol availability in the market has scaled up while this polyol price has been reduced, with the exception of high-quality glycerol. In this context, novel and sustainable products based on glycerol are actively looked for. Octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC) is a common cosmetic ingredient and sunscreen with potential activity as an endocrine disruptor that is considered an emergent contaminant in aquatic environments. As possible substituents, glycerol-based methoxycinnamates such as monoglycerides can be obtained via lipase-driven esterification. In this work, we develop an enzymatic process under solventless conditions to obtain p-methoxycinnamate monoglyceride under mild conditions using Novozym 435—an immobilized industrial preparation of the lipase B of Candida antarctica—observing the effect of key process variables such as temperature and enzyme, water and acid concentrations. Furthermore, the obtained product was assessed for its activity as UVB-filter and for its stability under irradiation conditions, showing a similar SPF activity and a much higher stability toward photooxidation than OMC. Full article

Comparing electroanalysis and chromatography, this study highlights that electroanalysis, specifically using a glassy carbon sensor (GCS), is the most appropriate choice for quantifying recalcitrant organic compounds. Octocrylene (OC), an organic compound commonly found in sunscreens, is of particular concern in swimming pool water monitoring, as its presence above legal limits poses health risks. OC quantification was performed using both high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and electroanalysis in sunscreen formulations and water matrices. The limits of detection (LODs) and quantification (LOQ) for OC were approximately 0.11 ± 0.01 mg L⁻¹ and 0.86 ± 0.04 mg L⁻¹ by electroanalysis, and 0.35 ± 0.02 mg L⁻¹ and 2.86 ± 0.12 mg L⁻¹ by HPLC. Electroanalysis successfully quantified OC in real sunscreen samples, and the results were comparable to those obtained by HPLC. The matrices tested—swimming pool water and distilled water (containing 0.002 M Cl⁻) contaminated with 0.4 ± 0.2 g L⁻¹ of sunscreen (based on a maximum concentration in sunscreen and cosmetic formulations of 10%)—showed OC concentrations below 10% in the formulation, with no significant differences observed between the two techniques. GCS was further utilized to monitor OC degradation via anodic oxidation at current densities of 5 and 10 mA cm⁻², using a boron-doped diamond (BDD) anode. The combined approach demonstrated high efficacy in both detecting and eliminating OC from various water matrices, making it a reliable and efficient alternative for environmental and water quality monitoring. Full article

Phenolic compounds, with their diverse biological activities, are widely explored as cosmetic ingredients with photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-hyperpigmentation properties, offering a multitargeted approach to combat photo-induced skin aging. The study analyzed 1299 cosmetic products from 2021 to 2024 to understand the market impact of phenolic compounds and their mechanism of action against photo-induced skin damage. A total of 28 active phenolic compounds were identified and the prevalence of phenolics was 13.2% in anti-aging products, 5.2% in sunscreens and 4.8% in aftersun products. Bakuchiol and polyphenols, such as resveratrol, chrysin, and hesperidin methyl chalcone, were found in anti-aging products. Sunscreens and aftersun products were counted with ferulic and caffeic acids, and salicylic acid, respectively. Antioxidant activity was found to be the primary mechanism of action of phenolic compounds by scavenging reactive species, thus mitigating oxidative stress. Ferulic and caffeic acids, chrysin, and glucosylrutin can also absorb UV radiation, acting preventively against solar-induced skin damage. This study provides insights into the limited use of phenolic compounds in commercial cosmetics, despite their diverse biological activities, and suggests potential barriers to wider use in skin and sun care products. Full article

The cosmetic market is constantly evolving and ever-changing, particularly with the introduction and incorporation of nanotechnology-based processes into cosmetics for the production of unique formulations with both aesthetic and therapeutic benefits. There is no doubt that nanotechnology is an emerging technology for cosmetic formulations. Among the numerous cosmetic items, incorporating nanomaterials has provided a greater scope and is commonly utilized in facial masks, hair products, antiaging creams, sunscreen creams, and lipsticks. In cosmetics, nanosized materials, including lipid crystals, liposomes, lipid NPs, inorganic nanocarriers, polymer nanocarriers, solid lipid nanocarriers (SLNs), nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs), nanofibers, nanocrystals, and nanoemulsions, have become common ingredients. The implementation of nanotechnology in the formulation of face masks will improve its efficacy. Nanotechnology enhances the penetration of active ingredients used in the preparation of face masks, such as peel-off masks and sheet masks, which results in better effects. The emphasis of this review is mainly on the formulation of cosmetic face masks, in which the impact of nanotechnology has been demonstrated to improve the product performance on the skin. Full article

Background: Multiphoton tomography (MPT) is a femtosecond laser imaging technique that enables high-resolution virtual biopsies of human skin. It provides a non-invasive method for analyzing cellular metabolism, structural changes, and responses to cosmetic products, providing insights into cell–cosmetic interactions. This review explores the principles, historical development, and key applications of MPT in cosmetic research. Methods: The latest MPT device combines five modalities: (i) two-photon fluorescence: visualizes cells, elastin, and cosmetic ingredients; (ii) second harmonic generation (SHG): maps the collagen network; (iii) fluorescence lifetime imaging (FLIM): differentiates eumelanin from pheomelanin and evaluates the impact of cosmetics on cellular metabolic activity; (iv) reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM): images cell membranes and cosmetic particles; and (v) white LED imaging for dermoscopy. Results: MPT enables in-depth examination of extracellular matrix changes, cellular metabolism, and melanin production. It identifies skin responses to cosmetic products and tracks the intratissue distribution of sunscreen nanoparticles, nano- and microplastics, and other cosmetic components. Quantitative measurements, such as the elastin-to-collagen ratio, provide insights into anti-aging effects. Conclusions: MPT is a powerful in vivo imaging tool for the cosmetic industry. Its superior resolution and metabolic information facilitate the evaluation of product efficacy and support the development of personalized skincare solutions. Full article

Amazonian fruit residues like piquia shells are often discarded despite their antioxidant potential for sustainable cosmetic use. This study evaluated the photostability, phototoxicity, and photoprotection of hydroalcoholic piquia shell extract (PqSE) combined with UV filters in solutions and cosmetic formulations. PqSE formulations were photostable, even stabilizing photounstable UV filters. Phototoxicity tests (OECD TG 432) showed no phototoxic potential (MPE < 0.15) and reduction in the phototoxic potential of UV filters, while ocular irritation potential via HET-CAM assay indicated no irritant effects. The extract combined with UV filters enhanced protection against UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, achieving 60.9% effectiveness, outperforming commercial photostabilizers. Against UVB radiation, it showed cellular viability above 80%, comparable to benzophenone-3. PqSE formulations exhibited a radical protection factor (RPF) nine times higher than controls and reduced radical production by 64% after visible/near-infrared (VIS/NIR) irradiation on porcine skin, compared to 38% for controls. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy showed penetration depths below 12 µm for all time points. This study highlights the potential of reusing fruit residues like PqSE as sustainable, effective ingredients in sunscreen formulations, offering enhanced photoprotection and reduced environmental waste. Full article

Diacylglycerol (DAG) is a functional oil but is rarely used in the cosmetic industry because low solubility, susceptibility to leakage and low viscosity to skin are still the main hurdles. A novel diacylglycerol nanostructured lipid carrier hydrogel (GTP-DAG-NLC-GEL) loaded with green tea polyphenol (GTP) was designed and successfully prepared to broaden DAG’s application in cosmetics, which significantly improved GTP stability and skin stickiness of DAG. The results showed that DAG-NLC-GEL had good viscosity, which was 980 Pa·s when the shear rate was 5 rpm, and its viscosity decreased quickly with the increase in shear rate, making it easily expand on skin. Meanwhile, the encapsulation rate and drug loading of GTP in GDP-DAG-NLC-GEL reached 86.7% and 2.6%, respectively, and the DPPH free radicals scavenging rate and inhibition rate of the advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) were 85.46% and 89.72%, respectively, which indicate that GTP-DAG-NLC-GEL has significant skin sunscreen, antioxidant and anti-glycation activities. The GTP-loaded nanostructured lipid carrier hydrogel can be deemed to have great prospects for skin protection in cosmetics. Full article

Coffea arabica, Centella asiatica, and Curcuma longa extracts have demonstrated significant antioxidant and anti-aging activities. However, research on combining these three extracts in specific proportions to enhance their antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase effects remains limited. Therefore, this study aimed to determine the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts to maximize their combined antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase activities. A two-level full factorial design was used to identify the optimal concentration ratios of the mixed extracts. The results indicated that all extracts influenced antioxidant activity, with the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 0.5:6:2 mg/mL, respectively. In addition, all factors affected hyaluronidase enzyme inhibition, with the optimal proportions for C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 10:10:5 mg/mL to achieve the best inhibition. In a photostability study on individual extracts, mixed extracts, and mixed extracts combined with sodium metabisulfite and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, it was observed that preparing the mixed extracts and adding an antioxidant and a sunscreen agent helped reduce the photodegradation of phenolic compounds in the mixed extracts. Consequently, the stabilized mixed extracts could serve as raw materials in cosmetic products. Full article

Overexposure to ultraviolet radiation mainly leads to skin disorders (erythema, burns, immunosuppression), skin aging, and skin cancer as the most serious side effect. It has been widely accepted that using sunscreen products is an important way to protect against the harmful effects of UV rays. Although commercial sunscreens have constantly changed and improved over time, there are emerging concerns about the safety of conventional, organic, UV filters due to adverse effects on humans (such as photoallergic dermatitis, contact sensitivity, endocrine-disrupting effects, etc.) as well as accumulation in the environment and aquatic organisms. This is why natural compounds are increasingly being investigated and used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical sunscreens. Some of these compounds are widely available, non-toxic, safer for use, and have considerable UV protective properties and less side effects. Plant-based compounds such as flavonoids can absorb UVA and UVB rays and possess antioxidant, anticarcinogenic, and anti-inflammatory effects that contribute to photoprotection. Apart from flavonoids, other natural products such as certain vegetable oils, carotenoids, stilbenes, and ferulic acid also have UV-absorbing properties. Some vitamins might also be beneficial for skin protection due to their antioxidant activity. Therefore, the aim of this research was to gain insight into the potential of natural compounds to replace or reduce the amount of conventional UV filters, based on recent research. Full article

Global warming has recently intensified research interest in renewable polymer chemistry, with significant attention directed towards lignin nanoparticle (LNP) synthesis. Despite progress, LNP industrial application faces challenges: (1) reliance on kraft lignin from declining raw biomass processes, (2) sulfur-rich and condensed lignin use, (3) complex lignin macroparticles to LNP conversion, using harmful and toxic solvents, and, above all, (4) lack of control over the LNP production process (i.e., anti-solvent precipitation parameters), resulting in excessive variability in properties. In this work, eco-friendly LNPs with tailored properties were produced from a semi-industrial organosolv process by studying anti-solvent precipitation variables. Using first a parametric and then a Fractional Factorial Design, predictions of LNP sizes and size distribution, as well as zeta-potential, were derived from a model over beech by-products organosolv lignin, depending on initial lignin concentration (x₁, g/L), solvent flow rate (x₂, mL/min), antisolvent composition (x₃, H2O/EtOH v/v), antisolvent ratio (x₄, solvent/antisolvent v/v), and antisolvent stirring speed (x₅, rpm). This novel chemical engineering approach holds promise for overcoming the challenges inherent in industrial lignin nanoparticle production, thereby accelerating the valorization of lignin biopolymers for high value-added applications such as cosmetics (sunscreen or emulsion) and medicine (encapsulation, nanocarriers), a process currently constrained by significant limitations. Full article

Chitosan (Ch), a natural polysaccharide, is known for its biocompatibility, biodegradability, and various beneficial properties, including antioxidant and antibacterial activities. The objective of this study is to investigate the functionalization of zinc oxide (ZnO) with chitosan to develop a novel ZnO@Ch adduct for use in cosmetic formulations, specifically as a sun protection agent. The functionalization was achieved through ionotropic gelation, which enhanced the stability and reduced the photocatalytic activity of ZnO, thereby improving its safety profile for skin applications. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed the successful functionalization, while TGA and DSC characterized the thermal properties and stability. The Zeta potential and particle size analyses demonstrated improved stability of ZnO@Ch across various pH levels compared to uncoated ZnO. The structure of the obtained adduct was also confirmed by SEM analysis. The ZnO@Ch adduct exhibited enhanced stability at neutral and slightly alkaline pH values, reduced photocatalytic activity compared to pure ZnO, and had lower cytotoxicity in 3T3 cells compared to pure ZnO, particularly at higher concentrations. The ZnO@Ch adduct provided a higher Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF) than pure ZnO, indicating enhanced UV protection. The adduct’s ability to provide higher SPF at lower ZnO concentrations offers economic and environmental benefits, aligning with sustainable product design principles. Future studies will focus on optimizing the formulation and testing the efficacy and safety at higher concentrations to fully realize its potential as a natural, eco-friendly sunscreen ingredient. Full article