Search Results (12)

Grape seeds are a rich source of bioactive compounds, especially polyphenols, which are known for their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. The aim of this study was to extract phytochemicals from the Lebanese grape variety “Obeidi” and incorporate them into liposomes and hyalurosomes in order to select the most effective formulation for improving skin properties and protecting against oxidative damage. Grape seeds were extracted by a sustainable ethanol-water method, yielding a total phenolic content (TPC) of 376 ± 16 mg/g (gallic acid equivalents) and an antioxidant activity of 0.58 ± 0.04 µg/mL (trolox equivalents). HPLC analysis identified catechins (4.51 mg/g), gallic acid (3.2 mg/g) and epicatechins (0.88 mg/g) as the dominant phenolics. The extract was encapsulated in liposomes and hyalurosomes with a mean diameter of 148–159 nm, polydispersity index < 0.3, and zeta potentials of −47 to −44 mV, and remained stable for three months at 4 °C. In vitro studies showed that hyalurosomes significantly increased keratinocyte viability by up to 144% and provided better protection against oxidative stress compared to liposomes. A 12-week clinical study involving 40 volunteers was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of extract-loaded hyalurosomes as an “anti-aging serum” by assessing various skin parameters. This treatment resulted in improved skin hydration, a reduction in wrinkle depth, and a slight decrease in melanin and erythema levels as demonstrated by imaging. These results are promising for cosmeceutical applications using grape seed extract loaded in hyalurosomes. Full article

Green soybean (Glycine max L.) seed contains a high procyanidin content and high antioxidant activity. Moreover, ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) has proved to be advantageous in providing high extraction efficiency. Hence, this study aimed to extract procyanidins from green soybean seeds (GSSs) using UAE. This study also evaluated the inhibitory activities of tyrosinase and the cytotoxic effects of crude procyanidin extract. The extract exhibited maximum levels of bioactive components and antioxidant capacity when subjected to a temperature of 15 °C and an extraction time of 20 min. The crude procyanidin extract at a concentration of 10 mg/mL inhibited the tyrosinase enzyme by more than 60%, and the half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) value obtained for the extract was 6.85 ± 0.81 mg/mL. This result was much greater than the IC₅₀ value obtained for kojic acid (0.089 ± 0.08 mg/mL), which was used as a positive control. For the cytotoxicity assessment, the results indicated that the crude procyanidin extract showed no cytotoxicity and actually stimulated the growth of human skin fibroblast cells. More than 80% of the bioactive compounds (total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), procyanidin content (PC)) and antioxidant activities (DPPH and FRAP) of the crude extract powder were retained at 38.68 ± 0.01 mg GAE/g, 16.07 ± 0.01 mg CAE/g, 9.24 ± 0.01 mg PC/g, 359.8 ± 0.72 μM Trolox eq/g, and 1640 ± 2.86 μM Trolox eq/g, respectively, after 12 weeks of storage at 25 °C. The crude procyanidin extract powder was then included in a facial serum formulation and tested for pH value and physical evaluation. The stability of the crude procyanidin extract facial serum was shown to be greater for bioactive compounds and antioxidant activity when stored at a temperature of 4 °C than when stored at a temperature of 25 °C. These results suggest that the GSS extracts obtained via ultrasonication show promise for use in cosmeceutical formulations for whitening skincare products. Full article

Collagen (CLG) belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains, which, twisting around themselves and their axis, form a right-handed superhelix. In the chemical structure, it contains mainly proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. It occurs naturally in the dermis in the form of fibers that provide the skin with proper density and elasticity. The review aimed to present the types of collagen protein, factors affecting its structure and its unusual role in the functioning of the human body. Also, an overview of cosmetic products containing collagen or its derivatives, the characteristics of the formulas of these products, and the effects of their use were presented. Throughout the market, there are many cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing CLG. They are in the form of fillers administered as injections, belonging to the group of the oldest tissue fillers; products administered orally and for topical use, such as creams, gels, serums, or cosmetic masks. Analyzed studies have shown that the use of products with collagen or its peptides improves the general condition of the skin and delays the aging process by reducing the depth of wrinkles, improving hydration (in the case of oral preparations), reducing transepithelial water loss (TEWL), as well as improving skin density and elasticity. In addition, oral application of bioactive CLG peptides has shown a positive effect on the nails, reducing the frequency of their breakage. Full article

The emergence of multidrug-resistant (MDR) Staphylococcus spp. has resulted in the reduced use of antibiotics in many skincare cosmetic products. Alternative treatments using natural bioactive compounds and chemical agents can be replaced. However, these compounds have induced negative side effects among users and are not environmentally friendly. Phage therapy is an alternative to antibiotics for the treatment of specific pathogenic bacteria including Staphylococcus spp., without harmful effects on human skin cells and microflora. Phages can be potentially used in cosmetic products. The direct application of phage-based cosmetic products on skin can reduce the chance of skin infection caused by pathogenic Staphylococcus spp. In the present work, we isolated 17 Staphylococcus phages from sewage and soil samples. Phage A1 showed the highest lytic ability at 50% (B1 profile), covering 13 tested Staphylococcus isolates including Staphylococcus aureus (SA), methicillin-resistant S. aureus (MRSA), S. capitis (SC), and S. epidermidis (SE). Phage A1 reduced the representative S. aureus ATCC 25923 and S. capitis SC1 by 2.0 ± 0.1 and 4.1 ± 0.3 log units at a multiplicity of infection (MOI) of 10⁴ and by 4.2 ± 0.2 and 4.4 ± 0.5 log units at a MOI of 10⁵ after 6 h of post-phage treatment. The transmission electron microscope revealed that phage A1 was classified in the order Caudovirales of the family Myoviridae based on its appearance. Phage A1 showed optimal survival in the presence of a 0.125% (v/v) solidant DMH suspension after 3 h of post-treatment. Under a phage skincare serum formulation, the titers of phage A1 were reduced by 0.46 and 0.85 log units after storage at 4 and 25 °C, whereas a reduction of 2.96 log units was also observed after storage at 37° for 90 days. This study provides strong evidence for the effectiveness of phage application in cosmetic skincare serum for the treatment of skin diseases caused by MDR and pathogenic Staphylococcus spp. The concept of this study could be advantageous for cosmetic and/or cosmeceutical industries searching for new bioactive ingredients for cosmetic/cosmeceutical products. Full article

Nasco and Bovale grape pomace extracts, alone or in association, were loaded in nanoemulsions tailored for cosmetic application, using Kolliphor^®RH40 (kolliphor) as the synthetic surfactant, Olivem^®1000 (olivem) as the natural one, and lecithin as the cosurfactant. Pink transparent or milky dispersions, as a function of the used extract and surfactant, were obtained to be used as cosmeceutical serum or milk. The sizes of the nanoemulsion droplets were small (≈77 nm with kolliphor and ≈141 nm with olivem), homogenously dispersed (~0.24 with kolliphor and ~0.16 with olivem), highly negatively charged (≈−43 mV irrespective of the used surfactant) and their stability either on storage or under stressing conditions was affected by the used extract and surfactant. Formulations protected the extracts from the degradation caused by UV exposition, were biocompatible against keratinocytes, protected them against oxidative damages induced using hydrogen peroxide and inhibited the release of nitrite induced in macrophages using the lipopolysaccharide inflammatory stimulus. The overall results underlined the key role played by the composition of the formula to achieve a suitable cosmeceutical for skin care but even for the prevention of premature aging and chronic damages caused by the stressing conditions. Full article

In this current review, research spanning the last decade (such as transcriptomic studies, phenotypic observations, and confirmed comorbidities) has been synthesized into an updated etiology of hair loss and applied to the new cosmeceutical paradigm of hair rejuvenation. The major etiological components in scalps with hair loss are denoted as the ‘big eight strikes’, which include the following: androgens, prostaglandins, overactive aerobic metabolism of glucose, bacterial or fungal over-colonization, inflammation, fibrosis, metabolism or circulation problems, and malnutrition. The relevance of the ‘big eight’ to nine categories of hair loss is explained. In cases of androgenetic alopecia or female pattern hair loss, both elevated DHT and increased frequency of androgen receptors lead to problems with the metabolism of glucose (sugar), redox imbalance, disruption to the electron transport chain, and PPAR-γ overactivity (the latter is unique to androgenetic alopecia, where the reverse occurs in other types of hair loss). These etiological factors and others from ‘the big eight’ are the focal point of our hypothetical narrative of the attenuative mechanisms of commercial cosmeceutical hair serums. We conclude that cosmeceuticals with the potential to improve all eight strikes (according to published in vitro or clinical data) utilize bioactive peptides and plant compounds that are either flavonoids (isoflavones, procyanidins, flavanols, and flavonols) or sterols/triterpenes. It is noteworthy that many therapeutic interventions are generic to the multiple types of hair loss. Lastly, suggestions are made on how scalp and hair health can be improved by following the cosmeceutical approach. Full article

Sleep shortage is a major concern in modern life and induces various psycho-physical disorders, including skin problems. In cosmeceutics, females are aware that sleep deprivation worsens their facial skin tone. Here, we measured the effects of sleep deprivation on facial skin yellowness and examined yellow chromophores, such as bilirubin and carotenoids, in blood serum as potential causes of yellowness. Total sleep deprivation (0 h sleep overnight, N = 28) and repeated partial sleep deprivation (4 h sleep for 5 consecutive days, N = 10) induced significant increases in facial skin yellowness. The higher yellowness was sustained even after both sleep deprivation types stopped. However, circulating levels of yellow chromophores were unchanged in the total sleep deprivation study. Neither circulating interleukin-6 nor urinary biopyrrin levels were affected by total sleep deprivation, suggesting that apparent oxidative stress in the body was not detected in the present total deprivation protocol. Facial redness was affected by neither total nor repeated partial sleep deprivation. Therefore, blood circulation may play a limited role in elevated yellowness. In conclusion, facial skin yellowness was indeed increased by sleep deprivation in our clinical studies. Local in situ skin-derived factors, rather than systemic chromophore change, may contribute to the sleep deprivation-induced elevation of facial skin yellowness. Full article

Fish collagen is a good source of protein and essential amino acids. It has a wide range of applications in food manufacturing, pharmaceutics, cosmetics, etc. By-products obtained from fish processing industries are currently used as alternative sources for the production of collagen and gelatin. Hydrolyzed collagen derived from fish skin has properties that are beneficial in cosmetic products. The aim of this study was to: (1) formulate a cosmetic product containing hydrolyzed fish collagen obtained from a by-product of fish processing industries, and other effective ingredients such as vitamin C, vitamin E and vitamin B3, (2) evaluate the physicochemical properties and stability of the product, and (3) conduct a facial skin evaluation test wherein volunteers use the product and have their facial skin analyzed. The formulated serum was translucent with low turbidity and had a pH of 7.7, and a viscosity of 1333 cps. The stability of the formulation was good, without any significant change in appearance, pH and viscosity as tested by freeze–thaw cycle testing, and after storage at room temperature for a period of 6 months. Furthermore, the results from the Visia skin analysis instrument revealed that the product was able to enhance facial skin moisture, reduce skin pores and wrinkles, and brighten the skin significantly when regularly used for at least 2 weeks. In conclusion, it was observed that hydrolyzed fish collagen obtained from a by-product of fish processing industries could be a sustainable and suitable material utilized in the production of safe and useful cosmeceutical products. Full article

If it can be effectively delivered to its site of action, α-mangostin has potential in development of novel cosmeceuticals due to its melanogenesis-blocking activity. The aim of this study was to develop an ultra-small unilamellar carrier system for α-mangostin and to evaluate its effect as an anti-age-spot serum on humans in vivo. The ultra-small unilamellar carrier bases were optimized using a 2⁵ factorial design, with five factors (virgin coconut oil, soy lecithin, Tween 80, and stirring duration and speed) and two levels (low and high); response of droplet size was analyzed using Design Expert 12^®. The anti-spot examination was conducted via capturing digital images of the human skin after topical application of an α-mangostin-loaded ultra-small unilamellar carrier at night for two consecutive weeks. The results thereof were analyzed using Motic Live Imaging 3.0 and a standard red, green, and blue score. The optimized serum formula was confirmed with a composition of 2.3% virgin coconut oil, 1% lecithin, and 28.3% Tween 80 (polysorbate 80) at a stirring speed of 1500 revolutions per minute for 15 min. Incorporation of 3% α-mangostin to the optimized base formula produced an ultra-small unilamellar carrier globule size of 16.5 nm, with zeta potential of −25.8 mV and a polydispersion index of 0.445. Physical characterization of an α-mangostin-loaded ultra-small unilamellar carrier comprised 90.94% transmittance, a pH value of 6.5, a viscosity of 38 cP, specific gravity of 1.042 g/mL and 72.46% entrapment efficiency. A transmission electron microscope confirmed spherical nanosized droplets in the system. Topical application of an α-mangostin-loaded ultra-small unilamellar carrier at night for 2 consecutive weeks demonstrated anti-age-spot activity shown through a significant reduction in intensity and area of spots in human volunteers (p < 0.05). Full article

Technology and environmental innovations always have a growing emphasis and have affected various industries. Since the cosmetics industry is highly competitive and consumers always desire innovations in products, the cosmetics industry tends to launch new products to satisfy customer desires without exception. Recently, in the area of cosmeceuticals, the application of nanotechnology has been attempting to increase; however, it seems to be tackling certain disadvantages compared to traditional products. Cosmeceuticals based on nanotechnology offer the benefits of product differentiation, improved bioavailability, and prolonged effects of active ingredients. These are widely used as a regulated delivery medium for cosmeceuticals, such as shampoo, nail enamels, lotions, hair serums, and conditioners. Their wide application is attributed to their intrinsic properties, such as rapid penetration, stability, hydrating power, and texture. The ability of the nanoemulsion system to form small- and large-surface nanoparticles enable the bioactive components to be transported into the skin more effectively. Furthermore, natural cosmetics are a general term that refers to all preparations for external conditioning and beautifying of the body from ingredients produced by or found in nature. The purpose of this review is to understand the nature of natural cosmetics which incorporate nanotechnology for better encapsulation and a better drug delivery system. The importance of innovations in the cosmetic industry is also discussed. Full article

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) have recently been increasingly discussed as one factor of skin aging. In this study, we investigated the effects of Cirsium japonicum flower (CFE) extract on glycation in relation to skin aging and skin elasticity. Moreover, we learned the main active constituent of CFE that has effects against glycation. To demonstrate the effects of CFE on glycation, we carried out an in vitro glycation study, 3-dimensional culture, and clinical study. As a result, CFE inhibited formation of AGEs in both bovine serum albumin (BSA)/glucose glycation system and aldehyde-derived glycation system. Moreover, CFE reduced Nε-(carboxymethyl), lysine (CML), and carbonylated proteins that increased by glycation. Furthermore, CFE broke crosslinks of collagen–AGEs and inhibited the increase of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) gene expression by AGEs. In the 3D culture condition, CFE restored the reduction of collagen gel contraction by glycation. Moreover, apigenin was detected as the main active constituent in CFE that has anti-glycation effects. In the clinical study, we confirmed that CFE has effects on skin wrinkles and skin elasticity. Our findings suggest that CFE can be used as a cosmetic or cosmeceutical ingredient for improving skin elasticity and wrinkles. Regulation of AGEs can be an interesting target for anti-aging. Full article

This study aimed to encapsulate Celastrus paniculatus seed oil (CPSO) in 2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HPβCD) cavities and investigate their biological activity, physicochemical stability, and skin penetration by vertical Franz diffusion cells of the CPSO-HPβCD inclusion complex formulations. For biological activity studies—including 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryhydrazyl radical (DPPH) scavenging, metal ion chelating, and inhibition of lipid and tyrosinase inhibition activities—the CPSO-HPβCD inclusion complex exhibited lower inhibition activity than free CPSO. CPSO-HPβCD dispersion, serum, and gel formulations were prepared. All formulations containing the CPSO-HPβCD inclusion complex showed no significant changes in physical characteristics after three months’ storage. The percentages of oleic acid remaining in all formulations were over 80% of the initial amount during a three-month stability study. For the skin-penetration study, compared to other formulations, the CPSO-HPβCD serum formulation exhibited the highest cumulative amount of oleic acid in the whole skin and flux through receptor fluid, after six hours, of 32.75 ± 1.25 µg/cm² and 1.02 ± 0.15 µg/cm²/h, respectively. The CPSO-HPβCD serum formulation also showed the proper viscosity. Hence, the CPSO-HPβCD inclusion complex will be beneficial for the further development of cosmeceutical products. Full article