Surface Science of Cosmetic Substrates, Cleansing Actives and Formulations

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 August 2022) | Viewed by 13401

Special Issue Editors

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Guest Editor
L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 93600 Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
Interests: cosmetics; surface chemistry; hair and skin biophysics; polymer physics; shampoo science

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Guest Editor
Department of Chemical Engineering, Manhattan College, Parkway Riverdale, NY 10471, USA
Interests: complex fluids; smart materials; rheology/microrheology/tribology; light, X-ray and neutron scattering; cosmetic formulation design; biopharmaceutical formulations/protein aggregation; surfactant, biosurfactant and polymer self-assembly
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Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The design of cosmetic products is currently a multidisciplinary task that requires marrying the economic and ecological aspects with the consumer demand for better products. The only way to successfully meet this challenge is via a broad perspective that includes a deep understanding of the most fundamental physicochemical bases that govern the behavior of the target substrates for cosmetic treatments, e.g., hair or skin, and their interactions with cosmetic formulations, an approach which requires analyzing the important role of the interface between the cosmetic substrate and the environment.

External agents, including pollution, mechanical stresses, and thermal treatment, can lead to a degradation of the physicochemical properties of cosmetic substrates which in most cases cannot be biologically repaired. Hence, cosmetic treatments are the only alternative providing a partial reparation of aesthetic damages. In particular, cosmetic formulations mostly work by repairing the external surface of cosmetic substrates, which means that it is very important to come up with a rational design of formulations that contains cleverly chosen ingredients to take advantage of their interaction at the surface of cosmetic substrates for the reparation process.

The current switch toward more eco-friendly ingredients is irreversible. Natural and biodegradable formulations need to maintain the standards in terms of performance of the properties expected in the cosmetic substrate. The interactions of these new ingredients with hair and skin must be revisited to create new structure–property correlations.   

The goal of this Special Issue is to provide a comprehensive overview of the current understanding of the surface aspects of cosmetic science, including both experimental and theoretical approaches to the study of substrates and formulations of cosmetic interest. Therefore, the Special Issue is open to interdisciplinary contributions aiming to push the limits of knowledge beyond the current state of the art.

Dr. Gustavo Luengo
Dr. Samiul Amin
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.


  • surface science
  • colloids
  • reparation
  • surfaces
  • polymers
  • surfactants
  • ecosustainability
  • adsorption

Published Papers (1 paper)

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15 pages, 722 KiB  
Chitosan: A Promising Multifunctional Cosmetic Ingredient for Skin and Hair Care
by Eduardo Guzmán, Francisco Ortega and Ramón G. Rubio
Cosmetics 2022, 9(5), 99; - 27 Sep 2022
Cited by 28 | Viewed by 12634
The cosmetic industry has an undeniable need to design and develop new ecosustainable products to respond to the demands of consumers and international regulations. This requires substituting some traditional ingredients derived from petrochemical sources with new ones with more ecofriendly profiles. However, this [...] Read more.
The cosmetic industry has an undeniable need to design and develop new ecosustainable products to respond to the demands of consumers and international regulations. This requires substituting some traditional ingredients derived from petrochemical sources with new ones with more ecofriendly profiles. However, this transition towards the use of green ingredients in the cosmetic industry cannot compromise the effectiveness of the obtained products. Emerging ingredients in this new direction of the cosmetic industry are chitosan and its derivatives, which combine many interesting physicochemical and biological properties for the fabrication of cosmetic products. Thus, the use of chitosan opens a promising future path to the design of cosmetic formulations. In particular, chitosan’s ability for interacting electrostatically with negatively charged substrates (e.g., skin or damaged hair), resulting in the formation of polymeric films which contribute to the conditioning and moisturizing of cosmetic substrates, makes this polymer an excellent candidate for the design of skin and hair care formulations. This review tries to provide an updated perspective on the potential interest of chitosan and its derivatives as ingredients of cosmetics for skin and hair care. Full article
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