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Keywords = slope breakwater

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22 pages, 3296 KiB  
Article
Performance of an L-Shaped Duct OWC-WEC Integrated into Vertical and Sloped Breakwaters by Using a Free-Surface RANS-Based Numerical Model
by Eric Didier and Paulo R. F. Teixeira
Fluids 2025, 10(5), 114; https://doi.org/10.3390/fluids10050114 - 30 Apr 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 521
Abstract
Waves generated by the wind in oceans and seas have a significant available quantity of clean and renewable energy. However, harvesting their energy is still a challenge. The integration of an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter into a breakwater leads to [...] Read more.
Waves generated by the wind in oceans and seas have a significant available quantity of clean and renewable energy. However, harvesting their energy is still a challenge. The integration of an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter into a breakwater leads to more viability, since it allows working as both harbor and coastal protection and harvesting wave energy. The main objective of this study is to investigate different configurations of L-shaped duct OWC devices inserted into vertical and sloped (2:3) impermeable breakwaters for different lengths of the lip by using a numerical model based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations. The ANSYS FLUENT® software (2016) is used in 2D numerical simulations by adopting the volume of fluid method to consider the two-phase free surface flow (water and air). It was observed that both the length of the lip and the length of the L-shaped duct OWC significantly influence the resonance and the efficiency of the OWC device. In addition, the performance of the OWC device varies significantly with its geometric configuration, which needs to be adapted for the local sea state. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Computational Fluid Dynamics Applied to Transport Phenomena)
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20 pages, 7862 KiB  
Article
Numerical and Experimental Study on the Hydrodynamic Performance of a Sloping OWC Wave Energy Converter Device Integrated into Breakwater
by Taotao Tao, Zhengzhi Deng, Mengyao Li, Pengda Cheng and Wenbo Luo
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(12), 2318; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12122318 - 17 Dec 2024
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 1285
Abstract
This study presents numerical and experimental investigations on an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy device integrated into a sloping breakwater. Regular waves were generated in a physical wave tank to investigate the hydrodynamic performance and extraction efficiency of the small-scale nested OWC [...] Read more.
This study presents numerical and experimental investigations on an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy device integrated into a sloping breakwater. Regular waves were generated in a physical wave tank to investigate the hydrodynamic performance and extraction efficiency of the small-scale nested OWC device. Simultaneously, to complement various scenarios, numerical simulations were conducted using the open-source computational fluid dynamics platform OpenFOAM. The volume of fluid (VOF) method was employed to capture the complex evolution of the air–water interface, and an artificial source term (Forchheimer flow region) was introduced into the Navier–Stokes equations to replace the power take-off (PTO) system. By analyzing wave reflection properties, energy absorption efficiency, and wave run-up, the hydrodynamic characteristics of the inclined OWC device were explored. The comparison between the numerical and experimental results indicate a good consistence. A smaller front wall draft broadens the high-efficiency frequency bandwidth. For relatively long waves, increasing the air chamber width enhances energy conversion efficiency and reduces wave run-up. The optimal configuration was achieved with the following dimensionless parameters: front wall draft a/h=1/3, air chamber width d1/h=2/9, and slope i=2. Due to the sloped structure, when compared with a vertical OWC, long waves can more easily enter the chamber. This causes the efficient frequency bandwidth to shift towards the low frequency range, allowing more wave energy to be converted into pneumatic energy. As a result, wave run-up is reduced, enhancing the protective function of the breakwater. Full article
(This article belongs to the Topic Marine Renewable Energy, 2nd Edition)
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20 pages, 7868 KiB  
Article
Numerical Simulation of Wave-Induced Scour in Front of Vertical and Inclined Breakwaters
by Xin Liu, Tomoaki Nakamura, Yong-Hwan Cho and Norimi Mizutani
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(12), 2261; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12122261 - 9 Dec 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 956
Abstract
The erosion of the seabed in front of shoreline structures due to wave action is a critical concern. While previous models accurately depict fluid and sediment interactions, they each have limitations and require significant computational resources, especially when simulating complex processes. This study [...] Read more.
The erosion of the seabed in front of shoreline structures due to wave action is a critical concern. While previous models accurately depict fluid and sediment interactions, they each have limitations and require significant computational resources, especially when simulating complex processes. This study proposed and validated a numerical model for simulating wave-induced sediment transport by integrating three key components: (1) a main solver based on large eddy simulation that includes the porosity of permeable materials, (2) a volume of fluid module to track the air–water surface, and (3) a sediment transport module that includes both bedload and suspended load to compute sediment concentrations and seabed changes. The model was validated against previously published experimental data, demonstrating its accuracy in capturing both wave motion and seabed profile changes induced by sediment transport. Furthermore, the numerical model was applied to study the effects of varying breakwater slopes on sediment seabed profile changes. The results show that steeper breaker slopes led to more concentrated wave energy near the structure, resulting in deeper scouring and higher sediment displacement. These results indicate that the proposed model is a valuable tool for coastal engineering applications, particularly for designing breakwaters, to mitigate sediment erosion and improve sediment stability. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Studies in Marine Geomechanics and Geotechnics)
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13 pages, 4339 KiB  
Article
Experimental Investigation on Wave Dissipation of Perforated Pipe Breakwater Under Regular Wave Conditions
by Shaopeng Yang, Lipeng Yang, Bing Shi, Jing Na and Yakun Guo
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(12), 2137; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12122137 - 23 Nov 2024
Viewed by 1206
Abstract
The permeable breakwater is an innovative, eco-friendly coastal protection structure that reduces wave impact while minimizing “dead water” and environmental harm. This study introduces a perforated pipe breakwater design with an increasing pipe diameter from top to bottom, evaluated through physical model tests [...] Read more.
The permeable breakwater is an innovative, eco-friendly coastal protection structure that reduces wave impact while minimizing “dead water” and environmental harm. This study introduces a perforated pipe breakwater design with an increasing pipe diameter from top to bottom, evaluated through physical model tests using transmission coefficient Kt and reflection coefficient Kr serving as the primary parameters. The results indicate that Kt decreases as the relative width (B/L), wave steepness (H/L), and relative water depth (h/L) increase, but rises with a steeper breakwater slope. When B/L exceeds 0.3, H/L surpasses 0.06, or the h/L ratio is greater than 0.3, Kt gradually declines until reaching a stable state, resulting in a more pronounced wave reduction. As B/L and H/L increase, the coefficient Kr initially drops, then rises. The slope ratio of 1:1.5 demonstrates the most effective wave energy dissipation, with primary dissipation occurring on the front slope. The mixed pipe diameter design shows superior wave absorption over a uniform diameter. Compared to a porous horizontal plate, the perforated pipe breakwater exhibits better wave absorption. These findings offer valuable guidance for designing eco-friendly coastal protection projects. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Ocean Engineering)
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20 pages, 5502 KiB  
Article
Numerical and Experimental Power Output Estimation for a Small-Scale Hinged Wave Energy Converter
by Giovanni Martins, Paulo Rosa-Santos and Gianmaria Giannini
Sustainability 2024, 16(19), 8671; https://doi.org/10.3390/su16198671 - 8 Oct 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1392
Abstract
Wave energy converters (WECs) integrated into breakwaters present a promising solution for combining coastal protection with renewable energy generation, addressing both energy demands and environmental concerns. Additionally, this integration offers cost-sharing opportunities, making the overall investment more economically viable. This study explores the [...] Read more.
Wave energy converters (WECs) integrated into breakwaters present a promising solution for combining coastal protection with renewable energy generation, addressing both energy demands and environmental concerns. Additionally, this integration offers cost-sharing opportunities, making the overall investment more economically viable. This study explores the potential of a hinged point-absorber WEC, specifically designed as a floating hinged half-sphere, by assessing the device’s power output and comparing two different breakwater configurations. To evaluate the device’s performance, a comprehensive numerical and experimental approach was adopted. Numerical simulations were carried out using a radiation-diffraction model, a time domain tool for analyzing wave–structure interactions. These simulations predicted average power outputs of 25 kW for sloped breakwaters and 18 kW for vertical breakwaters located at two strategic sites: the Port of Leixões and the mouth of the Douro River in Portugal. To validate these predictions, a 1:14 scale model of the WEC was constructed and subjected to testing in a wave–current flume, replicating different sea-state conditions. The experimental results closely aligned with the numerical simulations, demonstrating a good match in terms of relative error and relative amplitude operator (RAO). This alignment confirms the reliability of the predictive model. These findings support the potential of integrating WECs into breakwaters, contributing to port energy self-sufficiency and decarbonization. Full article
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20 pages, 7545 KiB  
Article
Numerical Evaluation of Wave Dissipation on a Breakwater Slope Covered by Precast Blocks with Different Geometrical Characteristics
by Bowen Jiao, Qingli Zhao, Fang Chen, Chunhui Liu and Qinghe Fang
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(10), 1735; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12101735 - 2 Oct 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1168
Abstract
Slopes suffer damage from waves in coastal environments. Precast blocks with well-designed geometrical characteristics can benefit the construction of revetments by mitigating the issue of wave overtopping and dissipating wave energy. In this study, we numerically studied the effect of the geometrical characteristics [...] Read more.
Slopes suffer damage from waves in coastal environments. Precast blocks with well-designed geometrical characteristics can benefit the construction of revetments by mitigating the issue of wave overtopping and dissipating wave energy. In this study, we numerically studied the effect of the geometrical characteristics of precast blocks on wave overtopping by carrying out a numerical simulation of wave overtopping on a slope covered with precast blocks. A total of three different types of blocks were considered in this study to determine the optimal geometric shape using a validated numerical model. Our numerical investigation demonstrated that the roughness of the precast block plays an important role in lessening the height of the wave run-up. Concave and embedded regular hexagons could reduce the wave run-up height by 44.6% compared with smooth slopes within a 2 s wave period. Herein, we evaluate and discuss the influence of the geometrical characteristics of a given precast block, such as thickness, aperture, and wave dissipation notch, on wave run-up. We also present an empirical formula for predicting wave run-up on a slope covered by a concave and embedded regular hexagon-type prefabricated block. This study provides valuable insights into the design of prefabricated revetment blocks. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Studies in Breakwaters and Coastal Protection)
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26 pages, 15491 KiB  
Article
Modeling Rip Current Systems around Multiple Submerged Breakwaters
by Jie Xu, Yuchuan Wang, Baoying Mu, Huan Du, Yanlei Li, Zaijin You, Sheng Yan and Lixin Lu
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(9), 1627; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12091627 - 12 Sep 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1083
Abstract
Multiple submerged breakwaters (MSBWs) are commonly used coastal protection structures due to their specific advantages over the emerged ones. Rip currents, as the inevitable natural hazard in the gaps of these constructions, are investigated numerically in the present study. A fully nonlinear mild-slope [...] Read more.
Multiple submerged breakwaters (MSBWs) are commonly used coastal protection structures due to their specific advantages over the emerged ones. Rip currents, as the inevitable natural hazard in the gaps of these constructions, are investigated numerically in the present study. A fully nonlinear mild-slope equation (NMSE) model possessing both fully nonlinear and fully dispersive properties is validated and adopted in the simulations. With four monochromatic wave conditions of different wave heights, periods and incidences representing low-energy, typical, storm and oblique waves tested, the flow patterns and the low-frequency oscillations of the rip currents are studied. For the convenience of risk assessment, the rip risk level is divided into three degrees according to the maximum rip flow speed. The effects of the configurations of the MSBWs on the rip current system as well as the rip risk level are examined, considering different breakwater widths, heights, forms, gap widths and gap numbers. Simulation results suggest that the cross-shore configurations of MSBWs influence the rip risk level by inducing different wave energy dissipations but the longshore configurations of MSBWs by changing flow field patterns. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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18 pages, 1713 KiB  
Review
Empirical Predictions on Wave Overtopping for Overtopping Wave Energy Converters: A Systematic Review
by Deping Cao, Jie He and Hao Chen
Processes 2024, 12(9), 1940; https://doi.org/10.3390/pr12091940 - 10 Sep 2024
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 2400
Abstract
Over the past three decades, the development and testing of various overtopping wave energy converters (OWECs) have highlighted the importance of accurate wave run-up and overtopping predictions on those devices. This study systematically reviews the empirical formulas traditionally used for predicting overtopping across [...] Read more.
Over the past three decades, the development and testing of various overtopping wave energy converters (OWECs) have highlighted the importance of accurate wave run-up and overtopping predictions on those devices. This study systematically reviews the empirical formulas traditionally used for predicting overtopping across different types of breakwaters by assessing their strengths, limitations, and applicability to OWECs. This provides a foundation for future research and development in OWECs. Key findings reveal that empirical formulas for conventional breakwaters can be categorized as mild or steep slopes and vertical structures based on the angle of the slope. For the same relative crest freeboards, the dimensionless average overtopping discharge of mild slopes is larger than that of vertical structures. However, the formula features predictions within a similar range for small relative crest freeboards. The empirical formulas for predicting overtopping in fixed and floating OWECs are modified from the predictors developed for conventional breakwaters with smooth, impermeable and linear slopes. Different correction coefficients are introduced to account for the effects of limited draft, inclination angle, and low relative freeboard. The empirical models for floating OWECs, particularly the Wave Dragon model, have been refined through prototype testing to account for the unique 3D structural reflector’s influence and dynamic wave interactions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Design and Utilization of Wind Turbines/Wave Energy Convertors)
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16 pages, 4067 KiB  
Article
Physical Experimental Study on the Wave Reflection and Run-Up of a New Ecological Hollow Cube
by Haitao Zhao, Feiyue Ding, Junwei Ye, Huabin Jiang, Wei Chen, Weifang Gu, Gengfeng Yu and Qiang Li
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(4), 664; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12040664 - 17 Apr 2024
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 1831
Abstract
Implementing quadrangular hollow blocks on breakwaters is a common method for wave mitigation and ocean disaster prevention. In order to improve the wave-damping performance of conventional quadrangular hollow blocks, a new quadrangular hollow block is proposed. In this study, a series of physical [...] Read more.
Implementing quadrangular hollow blocks on breakwaters is a common method for wave mitigation and ocean disaster prevention. In order to improve the wave-damping performance of conventional quadrangular hollow blocks, a new quadrangular hollow block is proposed. In this study, a series of physical modeling experiments were conducted in a two-dimensional wave flume to investigate the wave reflection and wave run-up height of a new quadrilateral hollow block under regular wave action. Test results showed that wave reflection and wave run-up height decreased with the breakwater slope. The wave run-up height increased with wave height, and the reflection coefficient decreased with wave height. Wave reflection and run-up height increased with the wave period. The reflection coefficient of the new quadrangular hollow blocks was lower than that of the conventional quadrangular hollow blocks and decreased with frame height. In addition, this study found that the reflection coefficient and relative run-up height increased with the average wave breaking parameter. The new quadrilateral hollow block has advantages in wave mitigation compared to the conventional quadrilateral hollow block. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Wave Interactions with Coastal Structures II)
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25 pages, 10837 KiB  
Article
Integrated Modeling of Coastal Processes Driven by an Advanced Mild Slope Wave Model
by Michalis K. Chondros, Anastasios S. Metallinos and Andreas G. Papadimitriou
Modelling 2024, 5(2), 458-482; https://doi.org/10.3390/modelling5020025 - 11 Apr 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2253
Abstract
Numerical modeling of wave transformation, hydrodynamics, and morphodynamics in coastal regions holds paramount significance for combating coastal erosion by evaluating and optimizing various coastal protection structures. This study aims to present an integration of numerical models to accurately simulate the coastal processes with [...] Read more.
Numerical modeling of wave transformation, hydrodynamics, and morphodynamics in coastal regions holds paramount significance for combating coastal erosion by evaluating and optimizing various coastal protection structures. This study aims to present an integration of numerical models to accurately simulate the coastal processes with the presence of coastal and harbor structures. Specifically, integrated modeling employs an advanced mild slope model as the main driver, which is capable of describing all the wave transformation phenomena, including wave reflection. This model provides radiation stresses as inputs to a hydrodynamic model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations to simulate nearshore currents. Ultimately, these models feed an additional model that can simulate longshore sediment transport and bed level changes. The models are validated against experimental measurements, including energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave breaking; combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking over a submerged shoal; wave transformation and wave-generated currents over submerged breakwaters; and wave, currents, and sediment transport fields over a varying bathymetry. The models exhibit satisfactory performance in simulating all considered cases, establishing them as efficient and reliable integrated tools for engineering applications in real coastal areas. Moreover, leveraging the validated models, a numerical investigation is undertaken to assess the effects of wave reflection on a seawall on coastal processes for two ideal beach configurations—one with a steeper slope of 1:10 and another with a milder slope of 1:50. The numerical investigation reveals that the presence of reflected waves, particularly in milder bed slopes, significantly influences sediment transport, emphasizing the importance of employing a wave model that takes into account wave reflection as the primary driver for integrated modeling of coastal processes. Full article
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22 pages, 10902 KiB  
Article
Swash-Zone Formula Evaluation of Morphological Variation in Haeundae Beach, Korea
by Jong Dae Do, Sang Kwon Hyun, Jae-Youll Jin, Weon-Mu Jeong, Byunggil Lee and Yeon S. Chang
Water 2024, 16(6), 836; https://doi.org/10.3390/w16060836 - 14 Mar 2024
Viewed by 1389
Abstract
In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea [...] Read more.
In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea where Typhoon Phanfone occurred in October 2014, and bathymetric surveys were performed before and after the typhoon. Hydrodynamic data were also measured to validate the modeled data. The performance of LW07 was tested by running the model in two modes, with and without LW07. First, the model was run to simulate the shoreline response to an imaginary coastal breakwater. The result showed a clear discrepancy between the two modes as the sediments were considerably cumulated behind the breakwater in the case with the swash-zone formula (LW07) in the wide range along the shoreline behind the breakwater, indicating that the sediments more actively and rapidly responded to the shadowing by the breakwater with LW07. The model was also run for a realistic case from August to October 2014, which included the typhoon’s period during 2–6 October. The results showed that the morphological changes at both ends of the beach in the swash zone were simulated with higher accuracy with LW07, supporting the effectiveness of LW07 in simulating the short-term morphological changes induced by the typhoon attack. In particular, the successful simulation of the sand accumulation at the end sides of the beach’s swash zone indicates that LW07 was effective in estimating not only the cross-shore transport but also longshore transport, which was likely due to the characteristics of LW07 that calculated sand transport in both directions. The enhanced modeling performance with LW07 was likely due to the adjustment of the sediment transport rate to the instantaneous changes in the local beach slope, which could successfully control the erosion/accretion process in the swash zone more realistically. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Sediments: Processes, Transport, Modeling and Hydrodynamics)
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15 pages, 4691 KiB  
Article
On the Stability of Rubble Mound Structures under Oblique Wave Attack
by Meysam Bali, Amir Etemad-Shahidi and Marcel R. A. van Gent
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(7), 1261; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11071261 - 21 Jun 2023
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1838
Abstract
Slope stability formulae for rubble mound structures are usually developed for head-on conditions. Often, the effects of oblique waves are neglected, mainly because it is assumed that for oblique wave attack, the reduction in damage compared to perpendicular wave attack is insignificant. When [...] Read more.
Slope stability formulae for rubble mound structures are usually developed for head-on conditions. Often, the effects of oblique waves are neglected, mainly because it is assumed that for oblique wave attack, the reduction in damage compared to perpendicular wave attack is insignificant. When the incident waves are oblique, the required armour size can be reduced compared to the perpendicular wave attack case. Therefore, it is important to consider the wave obliquity influence on slope stability formulae as a reduction factor. One of the most recent formulae for estimating the stability of rock-armoured slopes, referred to as Etemad-Shahidi et al. (2020), was proposed for perpendicular wave attack. The aim of this study is to develop a suitable wave obliquity reduction factor for the above-mentioned stability formula. To achieve this, first, laboratory experiment datasets from existing reliable studies were selected and analysed. Then, previously suggested reduction factors were evaluated and a suitable reduction factor for the mentioned stability formula were suggested. The suggested reduction factor includes the effect of wave obliquity and directional spreading explicitly. It is shown that the stability prediction is improved by using the wave obliquity reduction factor. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Engineering: Sustainability and New Technologies, 2nd Edition)
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18 pages, 7340 KiB  
Article
Efficiency and Wave Run-Up of Porous Breakwater with Sloping Deck
by Mengmeng Han and Chien Ming Wang
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(12), 1896; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10121896 - 5 Dec 2022
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 2640
Abstract
In order to protect fragile shoreline and coastal assets during extreme storms, a combined floating breakwater-windbreak has been proposed to reduce both wind and wave energies in the sheltered area. The 1 km-long breakwater has a porous hull with internal tubes to allow [...] Read more.
In order to protect fragile shoreline and coastal assets during extreme storms, a combined floating breakwater-windbreak has been proposed to reduce both wind and wave energies in the sheltered area. The 1 km-long breakwater has a porous hull with internal tubes to allow free passage of water; thereby further dissipating wave energy. The deck of the structure is designed to have a slope of 25 degrees facing the upstream side, and arrays of cylindrical tubes are placed on the sloping deck to form a windbreak. A reduced-scale (1:50) model test was carried out in a wave flume to examine wave sheltering performance under significant wave heights Hs = 3.0 m to 7.5 m and peak wave periods Tp = 9.4 s to 14 s sea states. Both regular and random wave conditions with different wave heights were considered. It is found that transmission coefficients ranging from 0.4 to 0.6 can be achieved under tested wave conditions. Porous breakwater hull increases the wave dissipation coefficients and is effective in reducing the wave reflection at the upstream side. The wave run-up length is dependent on the Iribarren number if the reduction induced by vertical freeboard is considered. Based on experimental data, empirical formulae have been proposed to predict the wave run-up responses in regular waves, probability of non-zero wave run-up occurrence, modified Weibull distribution of the wave run-up peaks and extreme wave run-up in random waves. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advances in Floating Structures)
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22 pages, 5385 KiB  
Article
Sediment Transport Equivalent Waves for Estimating Annually Averaged Sedimentation and Erosion Trends in Sandy Coastal Areas
by Michalis Chondros, Anastasios Metallinos, Andreas Papadimitriou and Vasiliki Tsoukala
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(11), 1726; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10111726 - 11 Nov 2022
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1999
Abstract
In this paper, a simple approach to determine representative offshore wave characteristics for estimating the annually averaged sedimentation and erosion trends in sandy coastal areas is presented. Given the offshore wave climate, the proposed approach breaks down the climate into fixed 22.5-degree bins [...] Read more.
In this paper, a simple approach to determine representative offshore wave characteristics for estimating the annually averaged sedimentation and erosion trends in sandy coastal areas is presented. Given the offshore wave climate, the proposed approach breaks down the climate into fixed 22.5-degree bins and based on the sediment transport potential it determines the equivalent wave characteristics for each bin, i.e., a significant wave height, a peak period, a mean wave direction, and a corresponding frequency of occurrence. The approach is validated in idealized cases of uniformly sloping beaches with the presence of a breakwater, for various sediment diameters, sea bottom slopes, and different offshore wave characteristics. The performance of the proposed approach is evaluated against the full climate, returning good results. Furthermore, the proposed approach is applied in a real-life challenge, in the coastal area of Therma in the Island of Samothraki in Greece, where the presence of a fishing shelter has led to sedimentation and erosion problems. The performance of the proposed approach is very satisfactory, given the complexity of the problem. The generic nature of the proposed methodological approach allows it to be applied in numerous sandy coastal regions to estimate the sedimentation and erosion trends, reducing the amount of input parameters and thus requiring significantly less computational efforts. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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27 pages, 33982 KiB  
Article
Numerical Study on Hydrodynamics of Submerged Permeable Breakwater under Impacts of Focused Wave Groups Using a Nonhydrostatic Wave Model
by K. Qu, J. X. Huang, L. Guo and X. H. Li
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(11), 1618; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10111618 - 1 Nov 2022
Cited by 8 | Viewed by 4003
Abstract
Extreme waves, called rogue waves or freak waves, usually occur unexpectedly and with very large wave heights. In recent years, extreme waves were reported not only in deep ocean waters but also in shallow waters, which threaten the safety and intactness of the [...] Read more.
Extreme waves, called rogue waves or freak waves, usually occur unexpectedly and with very large wave heights. In recent years, extreme waves were reported not only in deep ocean waters but also in shallow waters, which threaten the safety and intactness of the coastal regions. To prevent the coastal infrastructures and communities from the devastating power of extreme surges and waves, many coastal defense structures were built along the coastline, i.e., submerged permeable breakwaters. However, the number of studies on the hydrodynamic characteristics of a submerged permeable breakwater under the impact of extreme waves is relatively few. In addition, wave focusing has been widely used to generate extreme waves in the past few decades. Hence, as a necessary supplement to the previous research work, the hydrodynamic performance of a submerged permeable breakwater under the impacts of focused wave groups was numerically studied by using a nonhydrostatic numerical wave model (NHWAVE). The influences of several main factors, such as the incident significant wave height, water depth, wave peak period, porosity of the breakwater (n), and the side slope angle of the breakwater, were considered. It is expected that the results of this study will further strengthen the research on the hydrodynamic characteristics of a submerged permeable breakwater under extreme wave conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Ocean Engineering)
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