Search Results (194)

This study investigated the potential cosmetic properties of the ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction obtained from the roots of Astilboides tabularis (Hemsl.) Engl., focusing on skin-whitening, antiwrinkle, and moisturizing effects using cell-based assays and three-dimensional (3D) artificial skin models (Neoderm-ED and Neoderm-ME). The EtOAc fraction showed significant dose-dependent inhibitory activity against tyrosinase (TYR) (72.0% inhibition at 50 µg/mL), comparable to that of kojic acid. In α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated Neoderm-ME artificial skin containing melanocytes, the EtOAc fraction reduced melanin synthesis at concentrations of 50 and 75 µg/mL and decreased melanogenesis-related gene expression, including TYR, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1) and TRP-2. In the antiwrinkle assays, the EtOAc fraction effectively inhibited elastase activity (41.5% inhibition at 10 µg/mL), exceeding the efficacy of ursolic acid. In the Neoderm-ED artificial skin model, the EtOAc fraction reversed structural damage induced by particulate matter (PM10), restoring epidermal thickness and dermal density. This improvement was supported by the increased expression of skin barrier and antiwrinkle genes, including filaggrin, hyaluronic acid synthase-1 (HAS-1), HAS-2, aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), collagen type I alpha 1 chain (COL1A1), elastin, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases-1 (TIMP-1), and TIMP-2, as well as decreased expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9). Our results indicate that the EtOAc fraction from A. tabularis root has considerable potential as a multifunctional cosmetic. Full article

Allium genus (Amaryllidaceae) is widely distributed in the Northern hemisphere. Some species, including garlic and onion, have been used since ancient times as both food ingredients and medicinal plants. Many reviews deal with the chemical constituents, particularly the typical sulfur compounds, as well as with Allium pharmacological properties, such as antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and cytotoxic activities. The bibliographic search performed in this review is mainly focused on the potential role of Allium species in inhibiting melanogenesis, which has been mainly assessed through the evaluation of the inhibitory properties on tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin biosynthesis. Two well established models for identifying potential skin-whitening agents have been used to assess the anti-melanogenic effects of Allium species, the mushroom tyrosinase and the murine melanoma B16 cell line. Here, a literature search from Scopus, Web of Science, and PubMed databases has been performed using the keywords “Allium”, “tyrosinase”, “anti-melanogenic”, and “melanogenesis”, combined by means of Boolean operators. Based on selected inclusion criteria, 32 eligible papers have been selected. The aim of this systematic review is to offer an overview of the species for which the ability to affect melanogenesis has been demonstrated to date, highlighting a new and emerging perspective on the potential therapeutic use of Allium species. The biological properties of isolated pure compounds and the negative outcomes have been also considered. Full article

Peptides are molecules composed of two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds, and they play essential biological roles. In recent decades, peptides have become pivotal bioactive ingredients in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics due to their unique features. Originally developed for therapeutic purposes, peptides have gained popularity in the cosmetic field, providing solutions for anti-aging, whitening, moisturizing, and skin repair. Moreover, innovations such as artificial intelligence-assisted peptide design, efficient delivery systems, and the integration of multifunctional ingredients have significantly contributed to the industry’s rapid evolution. This review explores the historical milestones of peptides in medicine and cosmetics, delves into cutting-edge synthesis technologies, and dissects the molecular mechanisms behind their cosmetic properties. Research in medicinal peptides has promoted the development of cosmetic peptides. Despite their potential, challenges such as stability, bioavailability, and cost-effective production remain barriers to widespread adoption. Future studies should focus on enhancing peptide stability, developing synergistic formulations, and conducting large-scale clinical trials to validate long-term efficacy. With continuous innovation, peptides are poised to redefine the cosmetic industry, bridging the gap between pharmaceuticals and skincare for safer and more effective solutions. Full article

Excessive melanogenesis causes abnormal pigmentation and a higher risk of skin disorders (e.g., melanoma). Resveratrol (RSV), a natural polyphenol, exerts antioxidant and anti-aging effects. However, the effects of RSV and its derivatives on melanogenesis remain unclear. This study investigated their effects on melanogenesis and antioxidant activity in B16F10 cells. After measuring cell viability, B16F10 cells were incubated with 50 µM of RSV, dihydroresveratrol (DIRSV), and other RSV derivatives for 24 h. The relative melanin content and tyrosinase activity were quantified. The protein and mRNA levels of melanogenesis-related genes (MITF, CREB, TYR, and TRP) and the binding affinity of RSV derivatives to their target proteins were measured. The antioxidant activity was evaluated using ABTS and DPPH assays. RSV and DIRSV (50 µM) significantly reduced melanin content and tyrosinase activity, respectively. However, other derivatives had no significant effects. RSV, DIRSV, and other derivatives significantly suppressed MITF and CREB levels. Additionally, DIRSV significantly reduced p-CREB and TYR protein levels and showed a higher affinity for CREB than RSV, despite no significant changes in MITF, TYR, or TRP mRNA levels. In the antioxidant assays, RSV and DIRSV exhibited significant ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging activities. DIRSV, like RSV, inhibits melanogenesis and exhibits antioxidant effects in B16F10 cells. However, RSV derivatives demonstrate partial antioxidant activity and inhibit melanogenesis-related proteins but do not significantly affect melanogenesis. DIRSV’s practical applications as a skin-protective and -whitening agent warrant further exploration. Full article

Rosa damascena Mill., widely recognized for its remarkable skincare benefits, is extensively used in the cosmeceutical industry. This study introduces a novel green approach to extract bioactive compounds from R. damascena for cosmeceutical applications while also evaluating its stability in terms of physical, chemical, and biological properties. R. damascena petals were extracted using deionized water instead of organic solvents, using various green extraction methods, including infusion, microwave, ultrasound, pulsed electric field, and micellar extraction. Their chemical composition was analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography. The extract with the highest concentration of bioactive compounds was further evaluated for its cosmeceutical properties and stability and compared with its individual chemical components. Various factors influencing stability were evaluated, including pH level (5, 7, and 9), temperature (4 °C, 30 °C, and 45 °C), and light exposure. The findings indicate that the extract obtained through microwave-assisted extraction (MAE) contained the highest concentration of bioactive constituents, with corilagin being the most abundant, followed by cyanidin-3,5-O-diglucoside, gallic acid, ellagic acid, L-ascorbic acid, and rutin, respectively. Additionally, MAE exhibited excellent antioxidant, whitening, and anti-skin-aging effects, demonstrating significantly higher activities than both the positive control (L-ascorbic acid for antioxidant effects, kojic acid for anti-tyrosinase effects, and epigallocatechin gallate and oleanolic acid for anti-skin-aging effects) and the individual chemical constituents. However, the physico-chemical and biological stability of MAE was influenced by pH, temperature, and light exposure, and as such, light-protected and controlled temperature (not exceeding 30 °C) is essential to maintain the extract’s efficacy in skincare products, and optimal formulation strategies are strongly recommended to ensure long-term stability. Full article

Due to the adverse effects associated with synthetic cosmetic ingredients, global demand is increasingly shifting toward natural formulations that offer diverse benefits for enhancing skin health and overall beauty. Researchers around the world are extensively exploring a variety of unique natural secondary metabolites for cosmeceutical applications. Among the potential candidates, phlorotannins derived from brown seaweeds have shown significant potential as an active ingredient in cosmeceutical applications. The notable properties associated with phlorotannins include antioxidant, anti-aging, whitening, anti-wrinkling, anti-inflammatory, and hair health and growth-promoting effects, making them valuable in cosmeceutical formulations. However, to date, only a limited number of studies have critically reviewed the cosmeceutical applications of phlorotannins, and most are outdated. Thus, in the present review, primary attention is given to the collected scientific data published after 2020 about the bioactive properties of brown seaweed phlorotannins related to cosmeceutical applications. Full article

The flower buds of Syzygium nervosum are traditional edible and medicinal plant materials for the treatment of inflammation and stomach disorders. With rising demand for natural products in food and cosmetics, the nutraceutical and nutricosmetic potential of the flower buds has been evaluated in this work. The antioxidant activity of ethanol and water extracts of S. nervosum flower buds were detected through free radical scavenging (DPPH, ·OH, and ABTS) assays, and their inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase enzymes were also evaluated. The ethanol extract (SNEE) exhibited stronger antioxidant activity and superior inhibitory effects on both enzymes compared with the water extract (SNWE), highlighting its potential for anti-aging and skin-whitening applications. Meanwhile, the LC-QTOF-MS was employed for the identification of key chemical molecules responsible for the nutricosmetic properties. Moreover, the enzyme inhibitory mechanisms of the flower bud extracts were further elucidated using inhibition kinetics and molecular docking methods. This research underscores the promising nutraceutical and nutricosmetic potential of S. nervosum flower buds so as to offer important information for further developing the edible flower resource as skin feeding bioactive ingredients. Full article

Background/Objectives: Potato (Solanum tuberosum)-derived exosomes (SDEs) are extracellular vesicles (66 nm in diameter) with therapeutic potential. SDEs suppress matrix metallopeptidases (MMPs) 1, 2, and 9, tumor necrosis factor (TNF), and interleukin 6 (IL6), while exhibiting radical-scavenging activity against the free radical 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) in vitro and mitigating hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂)-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT cells. SDEs upregulate the antioxidant gene glutathione S-transferase alpha 4 (GSTA4), prevent UVB damage, and regenerate photodamaged HaCaT cells. This study evaluates SDEs’ safety and skin-enhancing properties to improve their beauty-related and medical applications. Methods: The SDEs purified via ultracentrifugation were tested for their cytotoxic effects on HaCaT cell viability in scratch wound healing assays and for skin barrier gene modulation in HaCaT keratinocytes and Detroit 551 fibroblasts. A reverse transcription–polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) was used to analyze the changes in skin barrier gene expression following the SDE treatment. Cosmetic prototypes containing SDEs were assessed for skin irritation, cooling effects, periorbital wrinkle reduction, elasticity, and whitening properties. Results: The cytotoxicity and human topical tests confirmed the safety of SDE application. The SDEs accelerated wound closure, elevated the skin barrier gene expression level, and improved the clinical parameters, including wrinkle reduction, elasticity enhancement, and whitening. No irritation or side effects were observed. Conclusions: This study identified natural, edible potato-derived exosomes (SDEs) as highly safe agents that significantly enhance wound healing and promote skin barrier-related gene expression. Their multifunctional anti-aging efficacy—reducing wrinkles, enhancing elasticity, and promoting whitening without irritation—positions them as promising candidates for cosmetic and dermatological innovations. These findings warrant further exploration of SDEs for therapeutic applications, including inflammatory skin disorders and drug delivery systems. Full article

L-Theanine, a natural amino acid found in green tea (Camellia sinensis) leaves, is known for its diverse psychotropic effects. This study aimed to evaluate the inhibitory effect of L-theanine on melanin production and uncover its regulatory mechanism. We evaluated the anti-melanogenic activities of L-theanine in vitro and in vivo. In B16F10 murine melanoma cells induced by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone, melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity were determined, and melanogenesis-related protein expression and signaling pathways were analyzed by Western blotting. Melanin reduction was further assessed using the zebrafish (Danio rerio) test. L-Theanine reduced the intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content of B16F10 cells. It also attenuated the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins, such as microphthalmia- associated transcription factor, tyrosinase (TYR), TYR-related protein-1, and dopachrome tautomerase. L-Theanine modulated the protein kinase A (PKA), cAMP responder element binding protein (CREB), phosphorylation of/protein kinase B (Akt), glycogen synthase kinase-3β (GSK-3β), and β-catenin. The antimelanogenic activity of L-theanine (<2 mg/mL) was further confirmed using zebrafish larvae. L-Theanine inhibited melanogenesis by downregulating the PKA/CREB and Akt/GSK-3β/β-catenin signaling pathways. In summary, L-theanine shows potential as a skin-whitening compound, warranting further investigation for its possible applications in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Full article

Melanin overproduction causes various skin diseases, such as spots, freckles, and wrinkles, resulting in the requirement of melanin synthesis inhibitors like 1-phenyl-2-thiourea (PTU) and kojic acid, which have been commonly used in the pharmaceutical industry. However, these inhibitors can cause side effects such as skin irritation and allergies. Therefore, it is necessary to develop safe and effective melanin inhibitors from natural resources. The purpose of this study was to investigate a whitening agent from natural substances using B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish model. We investigated the melanogenesis-inhibiting activities of the fractions from Sargassum pallidum extract. The ethyl acetate fraction from S. pallidum extract (SPEF) significantly decreased tyrosinase activity. SPEF also significantly reduced α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH)-induced intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content in B16F10 cells. Moreover, SPEF inhibited the expression levels of key melanogenic proteins such as tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF by downregulating the phosphorylation levels of CREB and PKA in α-MSH-stimulated melanoma cells. Furthermore, SPEF significantly suppressed melanin synthesis in the zebrafish model with no developmental toxicity. LC-Q-TOF-MS/MS analysis identified that SPEF was composed of 12 phytochemical compounds, including diterpenes, which were the dominant metabolites. These results altogether show that SPEF effectively suppresses melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and in a zebrafish model, with potential for usage in pharmaceuticals and cosmeceuticals. Full article

Skin aging is accelerated by inflammation processes generated by oxidative stress and external factors such as UV radiation. Plants belonging to the genus Kalanchoe that are rich sources of antioxidants could potentially strengthen the skin barrier if used as ingredients in cosmetic formulations. However, their use is limited due to the contents of bufadienolides, known cardiotoxins. This study aimed to establish a semi-quantitative profile of bufadienolides in the juices of K. blossfeldiana, K. daigremontiana, and K. pinnata using UHPLC combined with charged aerosol detection (CAD) and high-resolution mass spectrometry (HR-MS). Additionally, the study determined the ability of bufadienolides to penetrate the skin barrier using the Bronaugh Diffusion Cell Apparatus and Strat-M membrane. The study also assessed the ferric and molybdenum-reducing powers, as well as the radical scavenging capabilities of these plants juices using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonate) (ABTS) methods. The in vitro antihyaluronidase and antityrosinase activities and sun protection factor (SPF) were evaluated spectrophotometrically, indicating moderate capability to inhibit the skin enzymes, but low SPF protection for all analyzed juices. The semi-qualitative analysis demonstrated the presence of bufadienolides occurring in two juices from K. daigremontiana and K. pinnata, with the highest contents of 1,3,5-bersaldegenin-orthoacetate, bryophyllin-A/bryotoxin-C, bersaldegenin-acetate/bryophyllin-C, and diagremontianin. After passing through the skin model, no bufadienolide compounds were present in the subcutaneous filtrate. Antiradical and reduction assays revealed the antioxidant potential of K. blossfeldiana and K. pinnata. These results indicate that Kalanchoe juices have antiaging potential and appear safe for dermal applications. Full article

This review examines existing studies on wheat bran extracts (WBEs) to provide an overview of their functional properties, including antioxidant and enzyme-inhibitory activities, highlighting their potential as natural alternatives for applications in both the food and cosmetic industries. Despite variations in extraction techniques, WBEs consistently demonstrated a significant presence of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity. In the food industry, WBEs are valued for their nutritional richness, including dietary fiber, proteins, and bioactive compounds such as arabinoxylans. These compounds improve food texture, stability, and baking properties. Additionally, WBEs have demonstrated antimicrobial potential, enhanced product quality, and serve as natural preservatives. Furthermore, WBEs exhibit significant inhibitory effects against collagenase and elastase, suggesting promising anti-aging potential. In the cosmetics sector, WBEs have gained attention due to their emulsion stability, skin-whitening properties, antimicrobial effects, and antioxidant capacities. They have the potential to enhance the stability of cosmetic emulsions, improve skin hydration, and inhibit enzymes linked to skin aging, positioning WBEs as potentially natural alternatives to synthetic ingredients in skincare and anti-aging products. Our recent pilot study also supports that WBEs enhance antioxidant defenses against oxidative stress in rats, highlighting their potential role in anti-aging interventions. To further elucidate the efficacy and bioavailability of the beneficial bioactive compounds in WBEs for both food and cosmetic applications, more comprehensive in vivo studies are required in the future. Full article

Graptopetalum paraguayense (G. paraguayense) is a succulent plant that has been used in traditional Chinese and Taiwanese medicine, mainly for antihypertensive and hepatoprotective activities. G. paraguayense is also used as an edible vegetable, which is considered a functional food. Different in vitro, in vivo, and clinical studies have highlighted the multiple pharmacological activities of G. paraguayense, which include anticancer, antibacterial, antiviral, antiasthma, antihypertensive, skin-whitening and anti-aging, anti-Alzheimer, neuroprotective, and hepatoprotective activities. Numerous studies revealed the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential of G. paraguayense, which may be the major contributing factor for multiple pharmacological activities and the protective effect of G. paraguayense on pancreatic, liver, lung, colon, and brain diseases. Initial safety studies on animal models also support the therapeutic candidature of G. paraguayense. The presence of numerous bioactive phytochemicals, especially polyphenols, and the identification of important disease targets of G. paraguayense emphasize its high therapeutic potential. The lack of a directional approach and limited in vivo studies limit the development of G. paraguayense against important diseases. Still, a compilation of pharmacological activities and target pathways of G. paraguayense is missing in the literature. The current review not only compiles pharmacological activities and phytochemicals but also highlights gaps and proposes future directions for developing G. paraguayense as a candidate against important diseases. Full article

The silkworm neuropeptide Orcokinin (abbreviated as BommoOK) is equipped with multiple biological functions, one of which acts as a pigmentation inhibitor. To explore the whitening efficiency of BommoOK, the inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and its adaptability on the cell for six mature peptides of BommoOK were investigated in this paper. At the same time, BommoOKA_type4, the peptide with the best melanin inhibition effect, was used as an additive to prepare a whitening cream, and the effects on skin moisture, oil content, fine lines, skin glossiness, pores, and pigment depth were determined. The results revealed that the cream added with BommoOKA_type4 peptide showed a good improvement effect on the skin, especially in significantly reducing the pigment depths of skin. The results displayed a potential application of BommoOK in whitening and skincare products as an excellent additive and provide certain references for the mechanism research of BommoOK in inhibiting melanin synthesis. Full article

Natural products and botanicals continue to play a very important role in the development of cosmetics worldwide. The chemical constituents of a fine active fraction of the whole plant extract of Cuphea hookeriana Walp., and the tyrosinase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibitory and antioxidant activities of this fraction were investigated. The fine active fraction was mainly composed of seven natural compounds. The fine active fraction demonstrated substantial in vitro antioxidant potential using the ABTS assay (IC₅₀ 1.66 μg/mL). It inhibited the two target enzymes (tyrosinase and MMP-1) engaged in skin whitening and aging with comparable IC₅₀ values to the reference drugs. Acute toxicity experiments showed that mice gavage orally with the fine active fraction had no significant animal toxicity at a dose of 2000 mg/kg, and the maximum tolerated dose (MTD) in mice was greater than 2000 mg/kg. In a model where ultraviolet light promotes the increase in melanin secretion in guinea pig skin tissues, both α-arbutin and the fine active fraction can reduce melanogenesis, and the effect of the fine active fraction is better than that of α-arbutin. Full article