Search Results (694)

Plastic debris is a pervasive and persistent threat to marine ecosystems. Microplastics (plastics < 5 mm) are increasing in a variety of marine habitats, including open water systems, shorelines, and benthic sediments. It remains unclear how microplastics distribute and accumulate in marine systems and the extent to which this pollutant is accessible to marine taxa. We examined subtidal benthic sediments and beach sediments in critical nearshore habitats for forage fish species—Pacific sand lance (Ammodytes personatus), Pacific herring (Clupea pallasi), and surf smelt (Hypomesus pretiosus)—to quantify microplastic concentrations in the spawning and deep-water habitats of these fish and better understand how microplastics accumulate and distribute in nearshore systems. In the San Juan Islands, we examined an offshore subtidal bedform in a high-flow channel and beach sites of protected and exposed shorelines. We also examined 12 beach sites proximate to urban areas in Puget Sound. Microplastics were found in all samples and at all sample sites. Microfibers were the most abundant, and flakes were present proximate to major shipyards and marinas. Microplastics were significantly elevated in Puget Sound compared to the San Juan Archipelago. Protected beaches had elevated concentrations relative to exposed beaches and subtidal sediments. Microplastics were in higher concentrations in sand and fine-grain sediments, poorly sorted sediments, and artificial sediments. Microplastics were also elevated at sites confirmed as spawning habitats for forage fish. The model results indicate that both current speed and proximate urban populations influence nearshore microplastic concentrations. Our research provides new insights into how microplastics are distributed, deposited, and retained in marine sediments and shorelines, as well as insight into potential exposure in benthic, demersal, and shoreline habitats. Further analyses are required to examine the relative influence of urban populations and shipping lanes and the effects of physical processes such as wave exposure, tidal currents, and shoreline geometry. Full article

Suspended particulate matter (SPM) plays a pivotal role in marine source-to-sink sedimentary systems. Internal solitary waves (ISWs), a prevalent hydrodynamic phenomenon, significantly influence vertical mixing, cross-shelf material transport, and sediment resuspension. Acting as energetic nonlinear waves, ISWs can disrupt the settling trajectories of suspended particles, enhance lateral transport above the pycnocline, and generate nepheloid layers nearshore. Meanwhile, intense turbulent mixing induced by ISWs accumulates large quantities of SPM at both the leading surface and trailing bottom of the waves, thereby altering the structure and dynamics of the intermediate nepheloid layers. This review synthesizes recent advances in the in situ observational techniques for SPM under the influence of ISWs and highlights the key mechanisms governing their interactions. Particular attention is given to representative field cases in the SCS, where topographic complexity and strong stratification amplify ISWs–sediment coupling. Finally, current limitations in observational and modeling approaches are discussed, with suggestions for future interdisciplinary research directions that better integrate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes. Full article

Coastal climate processes that affect landscape hydrology and beach dynamics are studied using local and remote data sets near Cape Vidal (28.12° S, 32.55° E). The sporadic intra-seasonal pulsing of coastal runoff, vegetation, and winds is analyzed to understand sediment inputs and transport by near-shore wind-waves and currents. River-borne sediments, eroded coral substrates, and reworked beach sand are mobilized by frequent storms. Surf-zone currents ~0.4 m/s instill the northward transport of ~6 10⁵ kg/yr/m. An analysis of the mean annual cycle over the period of 1997–2024 indicates a crest of rainfall over the Umfolozi catchment during summer (Oct–Mar), whereas coastal suspended sediment, based on satellite red-band reflectivity, rises in winter (Apr–Sep) due to a deeper mixed layer and larger northward wave heights. Sediment input to the beaches near Cape Vidal exhibit a 3–6-year cycle of southeasterly waves and rainy weather associated with cool La Nina tropical sea temperatures. Beachfront sand dunes are wind-swept and release sediment at ~10³ m³/yr/m, which builds tall back-dunes and helps replenish the shoreline, especially during anticyclonic dry spells. A wind event in Nov 2018 is analyzed to quantify aeolian transport, and a flood in Jan–Feb 2025 is studied for river plumes that meet with stormy seas. Management efforts to limit development and recreational access have contributed to a sustainable coastal environment despite rising tides and inland temperatures. Full article

Coastal areas are increasingly vulnerable to erosion, a process that can lead to severe consequences such as flooding and land loss. This study investigates strategies for preventing and mitigating coastal erosion, with a particular focus on nature-based solutions, notably artificial sand nourishment. Artificial nourishment has proven to be an effective method for erosion control. However, its success depends on factors such as the placement location, sediment volume, and frequency of operations. To optimize these interventions, simulations were conducted using both a numerical model (CS-Model) and a physical flume model, based on the same cross-section beach/dune profile, to compare cross-shore nourishment performance across different scenarios. The numerical modeling approach is presented first, including a description of the reference prototype-scale scenario. This is followed by an overview of the physical modeling, detailing the experimental 2D cross-section flume setup and tested scenarios. These scenarios simulate nourishment interventions with variations in beach profile, aiming to assess the influence of water level, berm width, bar volume, and bar geometry. The results from both numerical and physical simulations are presented, focusing on the cross-shore morphological response of the beach profile under wave action, particularly the effects on profile shape, water level, bar volume, and the position and depth of the bar crest. The main conclusion highlights that a wider initial berm leads to greater wave energy dissipation, thereby contributing to the mitigation of dune erosion. Full article

Erosion represents a significant global threat to coastal zones, especially beaches, which are among the most valuable coastal landforms. This study evaluates the vulnerability to coastal erosion along the Brazilian Amazon coast, focusing on eight recreational beaches. The research is based on an assessment of geological, physical, ecological, and anthropogenic indicators. Some of these indicators were proposed in this study to enhance the evaluation of vulnerability in Amazonian beaches. The analysis reveals that most of the beaches studied are highly vulnerable to erosion due to a combination of natural factors and human activities. The barrier–beach ridge, composed of unconsolidated sediments, exhibits the highest vulnerability, while low cliffs present a moderate level of risk. The study highlights that semi-urban beaches with significant infrastructure development are particularly susceptible to erosion, a problem exacerbated by unplanned land use. Conversely, rural beaches, especially those located in protected areas, show lower vulnerability due to reduced human impact and better conservation of natural ecosystems. Furthermore, the study underscores the effects of extreme climatic events, such as prolonged rainfall and high-energy waves, which can intensify erosion risks. The findings suggest that anthropogenic changes, combined with extreme climate events, significantly influence the dynamics of coastal erosion. This research emphasizes the importance of targeted management strategies that address both natural and human-induced vulnerabilities, aiming to enhance coastal resilience and sustainability for Amazonian beaches. Full article

In this study, a dynamic load forecasting model was developed for offshore wind turbines, based on the COAWST (Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport) model, the GRU (Gated Recurrent Unit) algorithm, and a data assimilation module. The model was able to forecast aerodynamic, wave, and current loads acting on the turbines. Four groups of forecasting tests were conducted to evaluate the model’s performance under different strategies and to assess the impact of atmospheric assimilation on improving dynamic load forecasts. The wind turbines in Cangnan Offshore Wind Farm, located in the west of the East China Sea, were chosen as the study object. The results indicated that the model achieved high forecasting accuracy, with the RMSEs (root mean square errors) of 275.59 kN, 335.85 kN, and 313.51 N, for the aerodynamic, wave, and current loads. The errors were reduced by about 13%, 10.09%, and 6.7% when compared with the original COAWST model, and were also lower than the atmospheric and oceanic reanalysis data. Atmospheric data assimilation was demonstrated to reduce the forecasting RMSE of aerodynamic load by about 12%, and its error improvement was able to be combined with GRU-based error correction. Additionally, atmospheric assimilation mitigated the reduction in temporal variability caused by forecasting error correction, preventing a decrease in the standard deviation of aerodynamic load forecasts. However, atmospheric assimilation had minimal impacts on wave and current load forecasts, with the RMSEs increased by about 2.5% and 0.1%, and had almost the same performance in correlation coefficients and standard deviations. Full article

Coarse-grained beaches consisting of gravel, pebbles, and cobbles play a crucial role in coastal protection. On the Croatian Adriatic coast, there are artificial gravel pocket beaches created for recreational and protective purposes. However, these beaches are subject to constant morphological changes due to natural forces and human intervention. This study investigates the morphodynamics of artificial gravel pocket beaches, focusing on berm formation and crest build-up processes characteristic for low to moderate wave conditions. Despite mimicking natural formations, artificial beaches require regular maintenance due to sediment shifts dominantly caused by wave action and storm surges. Structure-from-Motion (SfM) photogrammetry and UAV-based surveys were used to monitor morphological changes on the artificial gravel pocket beach Ploče (City of Rijeka). The XBeach-Gravel model, originally adapted to simulate the effects of high-energy waves, was calibrated and validated to analyze low to moderate wave dynamics on gravel pocket beaches. The calibration includes adjustments to the inertia coefficient (ci), which influences sediment transport by shear stress at the bottom; the angle of repose (ϕ), which controls avalanching and influences sediment transport on sloping beds; and the bedload transport calibration coefficient (γ), which scales the transport rates linearly. By calibrating XBeach-G for low to moderate wave conditions, this research improves the accuracy of the model for the cases of morphological responses “berm formation” and “crest build-up”. Full article

Coastal erosion poses a significant threat to small tropical island regions, where coastal tourism and infrastructure play vital economic roles. However, the processes affecting tropical beaches, particularly in Central America, remain underexplored due to a lack of data on waves and atmospheric conditions. We propose a novel approach that utilises low-cost smartphone and satellite imagery to characterise beach ecosystems, where typically expensive and technologically intensive monitoring strategies are impractical and background data are scarce. As a test of its performance under real conditions, we apply this approach to four contrasting beaches in the low-lying islands of the Bocas del Toro Archipelago, Panama. We employ Earth Observation data and field-based monitoring to enhance understanding of beach erosion. Optical flow tracking velocimetry (OFTV) is applied to smartphone camera footage to provide a quantitative metric of wave characteristics during the high wave energy season. These data are combined with satellite-derived shoreline change data and additional field data on beach profiles and grain size. The results reveal distinct patterns of accretion and erosion across the study sites determined by wave climate, beach morphology, and grain size. Accreting beaches are generally characterised by longer wave periods, more consistent wave velocities, and finer, positively skewed sediments indicative of swell-dominated conditions and dissipative beach profiles. Conversely, more erosive sites are associated with shorter wave periods, more variable wave velocities, coarser and better-sorted sediments, and a shorter, steeper beach profile. Seasonal erosion during the high-energy wave season (January–April) and subsequent recovery were observed at most sites. This work demonstrates how foundational data for evidence-based coastal management can be generated in remote locations that lack essential baseline data. Full article

The bottom-simulating reflector (BSR) serves as an important seismic indicator for identifying gas hydrate-bearing sediments. This review synthesizes global BSR observations and demonstrates that spatial relationships among BSRs, free gas, and gas hydrates frequently deviate from one-to-one correspondence. Moreover, our analysis reveals that more than 35% of global BSRs occur shallower than the bases of gas hydrate stability zones, especially in deepwater regions, suggesting that the BSRs more accurately represent the interface between the gas hydrate occurrence zone and the underlying free gas zone. BSR morphology is influenced by geological settings, sediment properties, and seismic acquisition parameters. We find that ~70–80% of BSRs occur in fine-grained, grain-displacive sediments with hydrate lenses/nodules, while coarse-grained pore-filling sediments host <20%. BSR interpretation remains challenging due to limitations in traditional P-wave seismic profiles and conventional amplitude versus offset (AVO) analysis, which hinder accurate fluid identification. To address these gaps, future research should focus on frequency-dependent AVO inversion based on viscoelastic theory, multicomponent full-waveform inversion, improved anisotropy assessment, and quantitative links between rock microstructure and elastic properties. These innovations will shift BSR research from static feature mapping to dynamic process analysis, enhancing hydrate detection and our understanding of hydrate–environment interactions. Full article

The propagation characteristics of shear waves in granular sediments are usually used to assess the dynamic response and liquefaction potential of marine engineering foundations. However, the mesoscopic processes by which the excitation frequency influences the shear wave propagation and attenuation remain unclear. In this study, based on a triaxial bender element (BE) test model, the shear wave behavior in uniform spherical particles was simulated by the discrete element method (DEM). It revealed that the BE excites shear waves in a point source manner and that the propagation processes within a triaxial unit cell assembly follow exponential attenuation patterns. Near the vibration source (10–100 kHz), the attenuation law of spherical wave propagation is dominated by friction slip and geometric diffusion in particles. At 0.7–3.5 wavelengths, the shear waves progressively transition to plane waves, and the attenuation law is governed by boundary absorption and viscous damping. At 2.9–10 wavelengths, near-field effects diminish, and planar wave propagation stabilizes. Higher excitation frequencies enhance friction slip, boundary absorption, and viscous damping, leading to frequency-dependent attenuation. The granular system exhibits segmented filtering, with cutoff frequencies dependent on the receiver location but independent of the excitation frequency. Full article

This study quantifies morphological features of global braided river deltas using Google Earth imagery, analyzing eight systems (e.g., Yukon–Kuskokwim, Poyang Lake, Lena River deltas). Methods include listwise deletion for missing data (retaining 87% of Poyang Lake delta samples) and sensitivity analysis (threshold changes ≤2.4%). Nonparametric tests (Kruskal–Wallis, H = 12.73, p = 0.005) show significant differences in bifurcation angles across deltas, with the wave-dominated Po River (59.2°) having an 18% higher 80% threshold the than tide-dominated Poyang Lake (50.1°, p = 0.003). Key quantitative results include the following: 1.65% of bifurcation angles cluster at 30–60°, differing from fan deltas (p < 0.01); wavelength–amplitude relationships are nonlinear (R² = 0.537–0.913), with positive slopes indicating a high sediment supply (e.g., Yukon–Kuskokwim) and negative slope channel avulsion (e.g., Poyang Lake); bifurcation spacing correlates with the sediment supply—54% of Poyang Lake spacings < 2000 m (dense networks) vs. 80% of Lena River spacings < 15,000 m (stable channels). The resulting dataset enables global, remote-sensing-based comparisons, providing thresholds for sedimentary modeling and reservoir prediction. Moderate missing data (≤13%) minimally affect results, though high-missingness cases need further analysis. This study replaces empirical rules with statistical validation, showing that morphometric differences reflect depositional dynamics, which are critical for reservoir heterogeneity assessments. Full article

With the increasing global population and migration toward coastal regions, and the rising demand for coastal urbanization, including the development of living spaces, ports, and tourism infrastructure, the need for coastal defense structures (CDSs) is also increasing. Traditional CDSs, such as breakwaters, typically composed of hard units designed to block and divert wave and current energy, often fail to support diverse and abundant marine communities because of their impact on current and sediment transport, the introduction of invasive species, and the loss of natural habitats. Marine ecoengineering aims at increasing CDS ecological services and the development of marine organisms on them. In this study, carried out in a coral reef environment, we examined the relationship between coral colony protection levels and three factors related to their development, namely, coral fragment survival rate, larval settlement, and water motion (flow rate), across three distinct niches: Exposed, Semi-sheltered, and Sheltered. Coral survivability was assessed through fragment planting, while recruitment was monitored using ceramic settlement tiles. Water motion was measured in all defined niches using plaster of Paris Clod-Cards. Additionally, concrete barrier structures were placed in Exposed niches to test whether artificially added protective elements could enhance coral fragment survival. No differences were found in coral settlement between the niches. Flow rate patterns remained similar in Exposed and Sheltered niches due to vortex formation in the Sheltered zones. Survival analysis revealed variability between niches, with the addition of artificial shelter barriers leading to the highest coral fragment survival on the breakwater. This study contributes to the development of ways to enhance coral development with the goal of transforming artificial barriers into functional artificial reefs. Full article

This study evaluates the sediment-trapping performance of three coastal protection structures—submerged breakwaters, derosion lattices, and a composite seawall–submerged breakwater system—under monsoon and typhoon wave conditions. Physical model experiments were conducted in a wave basin with a movable-bed setup and variable water levels to simulate high tidal range environments. The results show that all three structures significantly improved sediment retention in the landward region, with the composite system performing best, followed by the submerged breakwaters and derosion lattices. However, in the seaward region, the sediment retention was 55.36% lower with submerged breakwaters and 126.79% lower with the composite system, relative to the no-structure case under monsoon wave conditions. Notably, the derosion lattice was the only structure that consistently achieved greater sediment retention than the no-structure case on both the seaward and landward sides. Full article

A small tombolo on the west coast of Guangdong’s Honghai Bay was investigated using over a decade of satellite imagery. Occasionally, this stream forms a lagoon behind the island, giving the appearance of a double tombolo. However, analysis of satellite imagery reveals that the double tombolo was not consistently formed and that the tombolo tip was not always attached to the leeward side of the island. This suggests that the tombolo was in a transitional state between the formation of a tombolo and a salient. The beaches on both sides of the tombolo are headland-bay beaches. Therefore, MEPBAY and XBeach, coupled with grain size analysis, were utilized to investigate the dynamic geomorphological processes of the tombolo. This study shows that the headlands at both ends of the beaches, along with waves approaching perpendicular to the shore, inhibit longshore drift on either side of the tombolo. The sediment sustaining the tombolo originates from the stream sands and offshore sands transported onshore by waves. When wave-driven sediment transport exceeds stream sediment supply, a tombolo forms. Conversely, only a salient develops. This specific case study reveals previously undocumented phenomena, thereby offering valuable insights into the mechanisms of double tombolo formation. Full article

Background/Objectives: Knee osteoarthritis (KOA) is a progressive degenerative joint disease characterised by low-grade inflammation and is associated with increased cardiovascular (CV) risk and arterial stiffness. Pulse wave velocity (PWV) is a quantitative measure of arterial stiffness and an important tool for detecting subclinical arterial calcification and CV risk. This study aimed to determine whether PWV can distinguish radiographically mild KOA (Kellgren–Lawrence grades 1-2) from severe KAO (Kellgren–Lawrence grades 3-4) in terms of CV risk factors. Methods: A total of 223 postmenopausal women with KOA participated in this cross-sectional study. Assessments included anthropometry, laboratory analyses, blood pressure and PWV measurements, a 6 min walk test, pain evaluation using a visual analogue scale (VAS), and completion of the International Physical Activity Questionnaire (IPAQ). Results: PWV was significantly higher in the severe KOA group (10.53 m/s vs. 8.78 m/s, p < 0.001). A cut-off value of 8.4 m/s effectively distinguished between severe and mild forms of KOA (AUC = 0.798, p = 0.001). OA grade, pain, age, waist circumference, WHR, SCORE 2/SCORE 2OP, systolic blood pressure, serum glucose, HbA1c, uric acid, creatinine, and erythrocyte sedimentation rate were increased in the group with PWV > 8.4 m/s, compared to the group with PWV ≤ 8.4 m/s. Conversely, eGFR, the 6 min walk test and physical activity of patients were reduced in the group with PWV > 8.4 m/s. A patient with a PWV > 8.4 m/s has a 1.77 times higher chance of developing a more severe form of the disease than a patient with a lower PWV. Conclusions: Patients with a higher PWV are more likely to develop a more severe form of KOA, which is associated with increased cardiovascular risk. Full article