Search Results (19)

This study investigates the influence of weaving process parameters on the structural homogeneity of woven fabrics, with a focus on the structural autoregulation phenomenon. Two experimental fabric groups of 30 each, plain and twill weaves, were produced using varied loom settings: shed closure timing, lease rod position, backrest roller position, warp pre-tension, and yarn twist direction. Structural uniformity was assessed using a proprietary method and the MagFABRIC 2.1. image analysis system, which quantify intra-repeat, inter-repeat, and global inhomogeneity. This method uses the size, shape, and location of inter-thread pores as well as warp and weft pitches. The results indicate that autoregulation can reduce local structural disturbances, including warp yarn grouping. In plain weaves, loom parameters and humidity significantly contributed to structural autoregulation. In contrast, twill weaves demonstrated dominant internal feedback mechanisms, significantly influenced by yarn twist direction. Regression models at F = 10 revealed nonlinear interactions, confirming autoregulation and experimentally supporting Nosek’s quasi-dynamic theory for these types of fabrics. The results of these studies have practical relevance in high-performance textiles such as filtration, barrier fabrics, and composite reinforcements, where local structural deviations critically affect the functional properties of fabrics. Full article

The improvements in collecting and processing data using machine learning algorithms have increased the interest in data mining. This trend has led to the development of real-life decision support systems (DSSs) in diverse areas such as biomedical informatics, fraud detection, natural language processing, face recognition, autonomous vehicles, image processing, and each part of the real production environment. The imbalanced datasets in some of these studies, which result in low performance measures, have highlighted the need for additional efforts to address this issue. The proposed method (HOUM) is used to address the issue of imbalanced datasets for classification problems in this study. The aim of the model is to prevent the overfitting problem caused by oversampling and valuable data loss caused by undersampling in imbalanced data and obtain successful classification results. The HOUM is a hybrid approach that tackles imbalanced class distribution challenges, refines datasets, and improves model robustness. In the first step, majority-class data points that are distant from the decision boundary obtained via SVM are reduced. If the data are not balanced, SLS is employed to augment the minority-class data. This loop continues until the dataset becomes balanced. The main contribution of the proposed method is reproducing informative minority data using SLS and diminishing non-informative majority data using the SVM before applying classification techniques. Firstly, the efficiency of the proposed method, the HOUM, is verified by comparison with the SMOTE, SMOTEENN, and SMOTETomek techniques using eight datasets. Then, the results of the W-SIMO and RusAda algorithms, which were developed for imbalanced datasets, are compared with those of the HOUM. The strength of the HOUM is revealed through this comparison. The proposed HOUM algorithm utilizes a real dataset obtained from a project endorsed by The Scientific and Technical Research Council of Turkey. The collected data include quality control and processing parameters of yarn data. The aim of this project is to prevent yarn breakage errors during the weaving process on looms. This study introduces a decision support system (DSS) designed to prevent yarn breakage during fabric weaving. The high performance of the algorithm may encourage producers to manage yarn flow and enhance the HOUM’s efficiency as a DSS. Full article

With the rapid development of intelligent manufacturing, Digital Twin technology, as an advanced tool for the intelligentization of weaving workshops, has endowed weaving services with real-time simulation and dynamic optimization capabilities while also placing higher demands on the digital capabilities of workshops. The diverse and multi-manufacturer equipment in weaving workshops exacerbates the complexity of multi-source heterogeneous data. Moreover, traditional data collection methods, which are mostly based on fixed frequencies, increase the network load during real-time high-frequency data reception, making stable, long-term operation difficult. Conversely, low-frequency collection might miss important state changes, thus affecting the quality of weaving big data. To address these issues, this paper proposes a service-oriented Digital Twin modeling method for weaving workshops. This method combines OPC Unified Architecture (OPC UA) with a state change-based data collection approach, utilizing a sliding time window (STW) to identify anomalous data and employing median interpolation to correct these anomalies. The goal is to enhance the representation capability of the Digital Twin in the weaving workshop by improving the data quality. For a specific service of predicting the warp-out time of 288 air-jet looms in a workshop, the average error of the predicted warp-out time using the dynamic data set proposed in this study was reduced from 0.85 h to 0.78 h compared to the static data set based on fixed frequency, an improvement of 8.2%, thereby validating the effectiveness of the proposed method. Full article

An innovative and simple design for a weaving loom was proposed to simplify the pattern design and the decoding process of weaving. Using the structural analysis of the existing looms and based on the concepts of weaving, a creative open-type rigid heald was developed to replace the traditional one and generate warp shedding. Corresponding to the raster graphics of the designed pattern, the heald shape had convex–concave features to control warping in shedding. The pattern design was integrated into the heald design using mechanical coding. Full article

Digital technology can be used to enable the living preservation and heritage innovation of the intangible cultural heritage of Chinese traditional textile skills for sustainable development. Taking the “Wu Leno” weaving technique in Suzhou as the research object, we first elaborated on the origin, development, and evolution of “Wu Leno” through documentary research and case study methods. Second, considering the inheritance of the Leno weaving technique, we used digital technology to establish the pattern. The study showed that a digital database and virtual reality technology can be used to build a loom model and create a simulation library to realize innovative applications and interactive experiences in apparel design. The study also showed that the digital database and the interactive technology of virtual reality can provide practical pathways and explore experiences for the preservation, inheritance, cross-border communication, and sustainable innovation development of Suzhou “Wu Leno” weaving techniques in modern times. Full article

The Sea Island cotton Gossypium barbadense has been present in Brazil for at least 750 years. Cultivated worldwide, the fibres present superior quality; therefore, farmers’ seeds are an important genetic resource and in situ maintenance is essential to complement ex situ conservation. To understand how the species has been conserved in situ and investigate the socio-economic aspects which may ensure the continuity of its conservation, we conducted expeditions to three different municipalities situated in Brazilian Cerrado, Goiás state, Brazil—one of which is a traditional community, the quilombo Kalunga community—interviewed plant maintainers and compared our results with data from the Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics. There is hand spinning and hand weaving for home uses and commercialization within and outside the traditional community, which contribute to the continuity of the in situ conservation of Gossypium barbadense. Medicinal use is more determinant than hand weaving in deciding to keep plants and seeds. Fabric handicraft is a predominantly female, low-income activity. Interviews with cotton hand spinners indicated that in situ maintenance may be favoured by access to weaving looms and improvement in the marketing and sale of their products. Policies valuing handicrafts can ensure the continuity of biodiversity and disseminate and vivify traditions in addition to maintaining an income for the artisans. Full article

With the triboelectric nanogenerator developing in recent years, it has gradually become a promising alternative to fossil energy and batteries. Its rapid advancements also promote the combination of triboelectric nanogenerators and textiles. However, the limited stretchability of fabric-based triboelectric nanogenerators hindered their development in wearable electronic devices. Here, in combination with the polyamide (PA) conductive yarn, polyester multifilament, and polyurethane yarn, a highly stretchable woven fabric-based triboelectric nanogenerator (SWF-TENG) with the three elementary weaves is developed. Different from the normal woven fabric without elasticity, the loom tension of the elastic warp yarn is much larger than non-elastic warp yarn in the weaving process, which results in the high elasticity of the woven fabric coming from the loom. Based on the unique and creative woven method, SWF-TENGs are qualified with excellent stretchability (up to 300%), flexibility, comfortability, and excellent mechanical stability. It also exhibits good sensitivity and fast responsibility to the external tensile strain, which can be used as a bend–stretch sensor to detect and identify human gait. Its collected power under pressure mode is capable of lighting up 34 light-emitting diodes (LEDs) by only hand-tapping the fabric. SWF-TENG can be mass-manufactured by using the weaving machine, which decreases fabricating costs and accelerates industrialization. Based on these merits, this work provides a promising direction toward stretchable fabric-based TENGs with wide applications in wearable electronics, including energy harvesting and self-powered sensing. Full article

Employing cultural ergonomics concepts to product innovation for cultural education and sustainable development is the target of this study. Atayal culture is famous for its weaving craft and art. The Atayal tribe of Taiwanese aborigines weave on the Atayal loom. Traditional culture is disappearing rapidly due to colonial history and modernization. The Atayal people consider the weaving loom a cultural object when used as a weaving device. This study attempts to transform the ancient Atayal loom into a teaching device and extend Atayal weaving from execution in daily living to cultural experience and cultural heritage development. This study first explores and identifies the meaning of cultural objects and extracts their cultural features. Then, employing cultural ergonomics, a weaving box is redesigned from an ancient part of the loom into a modern weaving box. Finally, the new weaving device is evaluated and discussed. This case study examines a paradigm of how designers interact with cultural heritage and transform cultural objects into new instructional aids. Through cultural product design, it provides an intertwined experience in theoretical and practical approaches to accomplishing the development of cultural sustainability. Full article

Textiles-fibres, yarns and fabrics are omnipresent in our daily lives, with unique mechanical properties that fit the design specifications for the tasks for which they are designed. The development of yarns and fabrics with negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR) is an area of current research interest due to their potential for use in high performance textiles (e.g., military, sports, etc.). The unique braiding technology of interlacement for preparation of braided helically wrapped yarns with NPR effect with later development of auxetic woven fabric made it possible to avoid the slippage of the wrapped component from the core. The applied geometrical configuration and NPR behaviour of the braided helical yarn structure with seven different angles comprising of monofilament elastomeric polyurethane (PU) core with two wrap materials that include multifilament ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibres were investigated and analysed. The mechanically stable 2D woven textile auxetic fabrics (AF) with various weave patterns such as 2/2 matt and 3/1 twill were developed from the auxetic yarn with PU elastomer core having maximum NPR effect of −1.70 using lower wrapped angle of 9° to study and compare their mechanical responses. The auxetic yarn was used in weft direction and multifilament UHMWPE yarn in warp direction, using semi-automatic loom. Auxeticity of AF was analysed and its various mechanical properties such tensile strength, impact energy absorption, in-plane, and out-of-plane auxeticity, and puncture resistance were studied. Higher energy absorption of 84 Nm for matt fabric was seen compared to twill fabric having an energy of 65 Nm. The puncture resistance capability of matt fabric was better than twill fabric. While twill fabric exhibited better auxetic effect in both in-plane and out-of-plane mode compared to matt fabric. In short, both the twill and matt design AF’s showed unique characteristics which are beneficial in making various protective textiles such as protective helmets, bullet proof shields, cut resistance gloves, blast resistant curtains, and puncture tolerant elastomeric composites. Full article

Tendons and ligaments are complex tissues that are necessary for human movement. Injuries occur very commonly and treatment quite often requires implants. Such implants must be adapted to the biological and structural composition of human tendons and ligaments. Thus, the objective is to realize graded, biomimetic tendon and ligament implants that are long-term resorbable. First, basic woven fabrics are fabricated from biocompatible silk fibroin yarns. Starting from the basic fabrics, gradient fabrics, with three different weave zones, are then developed and produced. In addition, fabrics with variable width and lateral warp yarn offset are fabricated on the basis of open reed weaving (ORW) technology on a modified shuttle narrow weaving loom. Meso-scale finite element models are developed in order to support the design of the gradient weaves. First, TexGen software is used to create a close to reality fabric geometry. Models are then converted into beam element models using a Python script. Results of real and virtual tensile tests show a clear relationship between the crimp of the warp yarns in the fabric structures and the resulting elongations. The additional ORW yarn system influences the stiffness. The tensile behavior of experiments and simulation agree very well, so the models are suitable for further development of woven implants. Full article

The study analysed the impact of the flipped classroom (FC) approach on weaving experience, self-efficacy and students’ learning achievement. To achieve this purpose, a quasi-experimental (pre-test/post-test) design, with a control group and an experimental group, was implemented. A mixed methods approach was used to evaluate the outcomes of the intervention. Forty- four first year senior high school students of an elective textile education subject participated in the study. An academic achievement test and a semi-structured group interview were employed as data-gathering instruments. Descriptive and inferential statistics (parametric and nonparametric tests), as well as thematic analysis were used to analyse the data collected. Findings of the study indicated that, regarding the acquisition of skill set and the maintenance of academic achievement, the students in the treatment group taught using the FC approach obtained higher levels of achievement juxtaposed with the students in the control group tutored with a traditional teacher-centred approach. The study further established that a flipped-classroom approach was engaging, interactive and exciting for students. The students in the experimental group, via the qualitative inquiry, expressed satisfaction with the practice in weaving and felt elevated in their knowledge, attitudes, self-learning, problem-solving and critical thinking skills acquisition. Therefore, the study recommended that the school adopt the FC approach as a method of teaching studio-based Visual Art subjects to support instructional hours. Full article

The aim of this study was to investigate the distribution of crimp in new jacquard fabric structures (in which one-layer and two-layer weaves are combined) in the fabric width and to create a method of crimp prediction. It was established that crimp was around 18.80% and changed within the limits of errors, i.e., a range of only ~4%, in the fabric width. It can therefore be said that the warp crimp was constant in the fabric width. Because the warp crimp of jacquard fabric changed insignificantly (within the limits of errors), it can be stated that the fabric-setting parameters and structural solutions were chosen and matched correctly, and such fabric can be woven on any jacquard weaving loom. Full article

Multilayer woven fabrics used for conveyor belts must be characterized by high mechanical strength. The design process of multilayer woven fabrics for such application requires taking into account the structural characteristics of the fabric, which allows to adjust the final product properties to the dedicated use. The geometry of warp threads—means stuffer and binding is the decisive aspect, which influences the strength properties of multilayer woven fabrics and materials made with their use as well. The aim of this work was to examine the possibility of shaping mechanical strength and bending rigidity of multilayer woven fabrics by changing the order of introducing weft threads into individual layers. The eight variants of multilayer woven fabrics were manufactured using laboratory harness loom. They were produced using different structural models in two weft variants, then tested. The mechanical features were determined, such as breaking force, recovered and unrecovered elongations in cyclic tensile test, stiffness rigidity. The analysis of the obtained results confirmed, that both the model and the order in which the weft threads were introduced into individual layers influence the mechanical strength and bending rigidity of multilayer woven. It was found, that the strength properties characterized by the above mentioned indicators are influenced by the number of threads weaved as both the stuffer and binding warp. Full article

The documentation, dissemination, and enhancement of Cultural Heritage is of great relevance. To that end, technological tools and interactive solutions (e.g., 3D models) have become increasingly popular. Historical silk fabrics are nearly flat objects, very fragile and with complex internal geometries, related to different weaving techniques and types of yarns. These characteristics make it difficult to properly document them, at the yarn level, with current technologies. In this paper, we bring a new methodology to virtually represent such heritage and produce 3D printouts, also making it highly interactive through the tool Virtual Loom. Our work involves sustainability from different perspectives: (1) The traditional production of silk fabrics respects the environment; (2) Virtual Loom allows the studying of silk heritage while avoiding their degradation; (3) Virtual Loom allows creative industries to save money and materials; (4) current research on bioplastics for 3D printing contributes to environmental sustainability; (5) edutainment and gaming can also benefit from Virtual Loom, avoiding the need to acquire the original objects and enhancing creativity. The presented work has been carried out within the scope of the SILKNOW project to show some results and discuss the sustainability issues, from the production of traditional silk fabrics, to their dissemination by means of Virtual Loom and 3D printed shapes. Full article

Symmetry is part of textile art in patterns and motifs that decorate fabrics, which are made by the interlacement of warp and wefts. Moreover, the 3D representation of fabrics have already been studied by some authors; however, they have not specifically dealt with preserving historical weaving techniques. In this paper, we present the SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom, a tool intended to document, preserve and reproduce silk historical weaving techniques from the 15th to the 19th centuries. We focus on the symmetry function and its contribution to art history, textile conservation, and modern design. We analyzed 2028 records from Garin 1820 datasets—a historical industry that still weaves with these techniques—and we reconstructed some historical designs that presented different types of defects. For those images (including fabrics and drawings) that had a symmetrical axis, we applied the symmetry functionality allowing to reconstruct missing parts. Thanks to these results, we were able to verify the usefulness of the Virtual Loom for conservation, analysis and new interpretative advantages, thanks to symmetry analysis applied to historical fabrics. Full article