Search Results (85)

Coastal areas are increasingly affected by erosion due to climate change and human interventions, threatening the stability of many shorelines. Understanding coastal dynamics is therefore crucial for developing effective conservation and management strategies. This study analyzes the evolution of the coastline between the Port of Valencia and the Port of Sagunto from 1957 to the present, one of the most anthropized littoral cells in the Eastern Mediterranean, where urban development, groyne fields, and major harbor structures strongly modify longshore transport. Using Geographic Information Systems (GIS), including QGIS and the DSAS extension, five shoreline change indicators (EPR, LRR, NSM, SCE, and WLR) were calculated based on coastlines extracted from orthophotos and satellite images. The analysis was conducted across five distinct zones and three temporal scales (long, medium, and short term) to capture spatial and temporal variations. The results reveal significant heterogeneity: the Arenas–Malvarrosa–Patacona area shows long-term accretion but recent erosion (LRR = +0.88 m/year; NSM = +58 m), Port Saplaya shows moderate erosion (LRR ≈ 0.27 m/year), Pobla de Farnals is undergoing strong erosion (LRR = −0.57 m/year; NSM = −44 m), Puzol appears recently stabilized (2015–2024; LRR ≈ +0.06 m/year) and Marjal dels Moros, historically stable, now exhibits a short-term retreat of −0.53 m/year. Overall, coastal evolution in the study area exhibits a clear pattern, being influenced by both natural processes and human actions: long-term accretion occurs exclusively in sectors located updrift of major infrastructures, while most remaining areas show persistent or recently accelerated erosion, reflecting the cumulative impact of sediment scarcity, coastal armoring and increasing storm intensity. The data provide valuable insights for medium- and long-term coastal planning and sustainable territorial management. Full article

Wave deformation and sediment transport nearest the shoreside are among the main reasons for sand erosion and beach profile changes. In particular, identifying the areas of incident-wave breaking and longshore current generation parallel to the shoreline is important for understanding the morphological changes of coastal beaches. In this study, a two-phase incompressible flow model along with a sandy sloping topography was employed to investigate the wave deformation and longshore current generation areas in a circular wave basin model. The finite volume method (FVM) was implemented to discretize the governing equations in cylindrical coordinates, the volume-of-fluid method (VOF) was adopted to differentiate the air–water interfaces in the control cells, and the zonal embedded grid technique was employed for grid generation in the cylindrical computational domain. The water surface elevations and velocity profiles were measured in different wave conditions, and the measurements showed that the maximum water levels per wave were high and varied between cases, as well as between cross-sections in a single case. Additionally, the mean water levels were lower in the adjacent positions of the approximated wave-breaking zones. The wave-breaking positions varied between cross-sections in a single case, with the incident-wave height, mean water level, and wave-breaking position measurements indicating the influence of downstream flow variation in each cross-section on the sloping topography. The cross-shore velocity profiles became relatively stable over time, while the longshore velocity profiles predominantly moved in the alongshore direction, with smaller fluctuations, particularly during the same time period and in measurement positions near the wave-breaking zone. The computed velocity profiles also varied between cross-sections, and for the velocity profiles along the cross-shore and longshore directions nearest the wave-breaking areas where the downstream flow had minimal influence, it was presumed that there was longshore-current generation in the sloping topography nearest the shoreside. The computed results were compared with the experimental results and we observed similar characteristics for wave profiles in the same wave period case in both models. In the future, further investigations can be conducted using the presented circular wave basin model to investigate the oblique wave deformation and longshore current generation in different sloping and wave conditions. Full article

Hydrotechnical structures reshape sandy coasts by altering hydrodynamics and sediment transport, yet their long-term effects on sediment texture remain underexplored, particularly in the Baltic Sea. This study investigates the spatial and temporal variations in sediment grain size near two ports (Šventoji and Klaipėda) on the sandy Baltic Sea coast, considering the influence of jetties, nourishment, and geological framework. A total of 246 surface sand samples were collected from beach and foredune zones between 1993 and 2018. These samples were analyzed in relation to shoreline changes, hydrodynamic data, and geological context. The results show that sediment texture is most affected within 1–2 km downdrift and up to 4–5 km updrift of port structures. Downdrift areas tend to contain coarser, poorly sorted sediments because of erosion and the exposure of deeper strata, while updrift zones accumulate finer, well-sorted sands via longshore transport. In the long term, the geological framework controls sediment characteristics. In the medium term, introduced material that differs in grain size from natural beach sediments may alter the texture of the sediment, either coarsening or refining it. The latter slowly returns to its natural texture. Short-term changes are driven by storm events. These findings highlight the importance of integrating structural interventions, nourishment practices, and geological understanding for sustainable coastal management. Full article

Typhoons can significantly alter ocean hydrodynamic processes through their powerful external forces, greatly affecting marine biogeochemistry and ocean productivity. However, the specific impacts of typhoons with different tracks on coastal dynamics, including frontal activities and phytoplankton lateral transport, are not well understood. This study captured two distinct types of typhoons, namely Merbok (2017) and Nuri (2020), which landed from the right and left sides of the Pearl River Estuary (PRE), respectively, utilizing satellite remote sensing data to study their impacts on frontal dynamics and marine productivity. We found that after both typhoons, the southwest monsoon amplified geostrophic currents significantly (increased ~14% after Nuri (2020) and 48% after Merbok (2020)). These stronger currents transported warmer offshore seawater from the South China Sea to the PRE and intensified the frontal activities in nearshore PRE (increased ~47% after Nuri (2020) and ~2.5 times after Merbok (2020)). The ocean fronts limited the transport of high-chlorophyll and eutrophic water from the PRE to the offshore waters due to the barrier effect of the front. This resulted in a sharp drop in chlorophyll concentrations in the offshore-adjacent waters of PER after Typhoon Nuri (2020) (~37%). By contrast, despite the intensified geostrophic current induced by the summer monsoon following Typhoon Merbok (2020), its stronger offshore force, driven by the intense offshore wind stress (characteristic of the left-side typhoon), caused the nearshore front to move offshore. The displacement of fronts lifted the restriction of the front barrier and led more high-chlorophyll (increased ~4 times) and eutrophic water to be transported offshore, thereby stimulating offshore algal blooms. Our findings elucidate the mechanisms by which different track typhoons influence chlorophyll distribution through changes in frontal dynamics, offering new perspectives on the coastal ecological impacts of typhoons and further studies for typhoon impact modeling or longshore management. Full article

A small tombolo on the west coast of Guangdong’s Honghai Bay was investigated using over a decade of satellite imagery. Occasionally, this stream forms a lagoon behind the island, giving the appearance of a double tombolo. However, analysis of satellite imagery reveals that the double tombolo was not consistently formed and that the tombolo tip was not always attached to the leeward side of the island. This suggests that the tombolo was in a transitional state between the formation of a tombolo and a salient. The beaches on both sides of the tombolo are headland-bay beaches. Therefore, MEPBAY and XBeach, coupled with grain size analysis, were utilized to investigate the dynamic geomorphological processes of the tombolo. This study shows that the headlands at both ends of the beaches, along with waves approaching perpendicular to the shore, inhibit longshore drift on either side of the tombolo. The sediment sustaining the tombolo originates from the stream sands and offshore sands transported onshore by waves. When wave-driven sediment transport exceeds stream sediment supply, a tombolo forms. Conversely, only a salient develops. This specific case study reveals previously undocumented phenomena, thereby offering valuable insights into the mechanisms of double tombolo formation. Full article

Sediment transport and shoreline changes causing shoreline morphodynamic evolution are key indicators of a coastal structure’s operational continuity. To reduce the computational costs associated with sediment transport modelling tools, a novel procedure based on the combination of a support vector machine for image classification and a trained neural network to extrapolate the shore evolution is presented here. The current study focuses on the coastal area over the Amir-Abad port, using high-resolution satellite images. The real conditions of the study domain between 2004 and 2023 are analysed, with the aim of investigating changes in the shore area, shoreline position, and sediment appearance in the harbour basin. The measurements show that sediment accumulation increases by approximately 49,000 m²/y. A portion of the longshore sediment load is also trapped and deposited in the harbour basin, disrupting the normal operation of the port. Afterwards, satellite images were used to quantitatively analyse shoreline changes. A neural network is trained to predict the remaining time until the reservoir is filled (less than a decade), which is behind the west arm of the rubble-mound breakwaters. Harbour utility services will no longer be offered if actions are not taken to prevent sediment accumulation. Full article

The Málaga coast, in the south of Spain, is a densely populated tourist destination where ports, marinas and coastal protection structures of various typologies (e.g., groins, breakwaters, revetments) and shapes (e.g., “Y”, “L”, etc., shaped groins) have been emplaced. Such structures have modified the long- and cross-shore sediment transport and produced changes in beach morphology and the evolution of nearby areas. To characterize the changes related to shore-normal structures, beach erosion/accretion areas close to coastal anthropic structures were measured using a sequence of aerial orthophotos between 1956 and 2019, and the potential littoral sediment transport for the two main littoral transport directions was determined by means of the CMS (Coastal Modeling System). Available data on wave propagation and coastal sediment transport reflect the complex dynamics of the study area, often characterized by the coexistence of opposing longshore transport directions. Accretion was observed on both sides of ports in all studied periods and groins and groups of groins presented mixed results that reflect the heterogeneity of the study area; in certain sectors where the wave regime is bidirectional, changes in the shoreline trend were observed during the study period. The study cases described in this paper emphasize the difficulties in finding clear spatial and temporal trends in the artificially induced erosion/accretion patterns recorded along a heavily modified shoreline. Full article

This review updates the different categories and formulations of the calculation of longshore sediment transport (LST) and summarizes their advantages and disadvantages. Most of these methodologies require calibration for areas different from those studied by their authors. Thus, a method of validation and calibration is presented here by processing satellite images with CoastSat software (release v 2.7) to determine accretion and erosion volumes. This low-cost methodology was applied to Salaverry Beach (Peru) to compare the results of the different formulations. A range of variation between −96% and +68% was observed concerning the error, with van Rijn’s formula being the most accurate for this particular case. Full article

Coastal upwelling that cools sea temperatures and nutrifies the euphotic layer is the focus of this research, motivated by how these processes benefit the marine ecosystem. Here, atmosphere–ocean reanalysis fields and satellite radiance data are employed to link South African coastal upwelling with nearshore winds and currents in the 2000–2021 period. Temporal behavior is quantified in three regimes—Benguela, transition, and Agulhas—to distinguish the influence of offshore transport, vertical pumping, and dynamic uplift. These three mechanisms of coastal upwelling are compared to reveal a leading role for cyclonic wind vorticity. Daily time series at west, south, and east coast sites exhibit pulsing of upwelling-favorable winds during summer. Over the western shelf, horizontal transport and vertical motion are in phase. The south and east shelf experience greater cyclonic wind vorticity in late winter, due to land breezes under the Mascarene high. Ekman transport and pumping are out of phase there, but dynamic uplift is sustained by cyclonic shear from the shelf-edge Agulhas current. Temporal analysis of longshore wind stress and cyclonic vorticity determined that vertical motion of ~5 m/day is pulsed at 4- to 11-day intervals due to passing marine high/coastal low-pressure cells. Height sections reveal that 15 m/s low-level wind jets diminish rapidly inshore due to topographic shearing by South Africa’s convex mountainous coastline. Mean maps of potential wind vorticity show a concentration around capes and at nighttime, due to land breezes. Air–land–sea coupling and frequent coastal lows leave a cyclonic footprint on the coast of South Africa that benefits marine productivity, especially during dry spells with a strengthened subtropical atmospheric ridge. This work has, for the first time, revealed that South Africa is uniquely endowed with three overlapping mechanisms that sustain upwelling along the entire coastline. Amongst those, cyclonic potential vorticity prevails due to the frequent passage of coastal lows that initiate downslope airflows. No other coastal upwelling zone exhibits such a persistent feature. Full article

Beach–dune systems are highly dynamic features of the coastal system, the evolution of which is influenced by several processes that occur at very different spatial and temporal scales. To mitigate shoreline retreat that threatens extensive coastal areas worldwide, coastal erosion mitigation measures are implemented, aiming to make coastal areas resilient to the effects induced by coastal erosion and the anticipated climate change related to storms, flood events and sea level rise. Numerical modelling can support planned and sustainable coastal management from a medium-to-long-term perspective (decades). This research focuses on presenting contributions regarding the numerical modelling of subaerial beach dynamics (berm width and dune systems interactions) from a medium-term perspective. The method applied is based on a combination of the results of two simplified numerical models (the LTC and CS-Model). The results demonstrate the potential of the proposed combined model for medium-term projections, allowing for the interpretation of beach–dune dynamics and the evaluation of the importance of longshore and cross-shore sediment transport processes. Full article

This study investigates the future wave climate-driven longshore sediment transport (LST) and shoreline change on the Karasu Coast, situated on the southwestern coast of the Black Sea, under the RCP4.5 and RCP8.5 wave climate scenarios. Within the scope of this study, hourly deep sea wave data between 2021 and 2100, according to the RCP4.5 and RCP8.5, were used in order to predict future LST processes. Net and gross LST rates were computed using various empirical and numerical methods based on hourly wave parameters. By the conclusion of the study period after 80 years, the average net LST rates were obtained as 48,000 and 51,500 m³/year in the RCP4.5 and RCP8.5, respectively, while the gross LST rates were 250,000 and 255,000 m³/year. Due to the increase in wave height and period in both climate scenarios compared to the historical data, the average gross LST rates are projected to rise in the future. The reduction in swell wave heights, coupled with an increase in wind wave heights, compared to the past has led to a reduction in net LST. The results show that, after 80 years, LST will have increased 2.5 times more in the near future in comparison with the middle future for both scenarios. Full article

Wave-induced currents play a critical role in coastal dynamics, influencing sediment transport and shaping bottom topography. Traditionally, long- and cross-shore currents in coastal zones were analyzed independently, often with two-dimensional models for longshore currents and undertow being used. The introduction of quasi-three-dimensional models marked a significant advancement toward a more holistic understanding. Despite recent proposals for fully three-dimensional models, none have achieved widespread acceptance, primarily due to challenges in accurately capturing depth-dependent radiation stress. This paper presents an innovative analytical model advocating for comprehensive three-dimensional approaches in coastal hydrodynamics. The model, based on novel simplification rules, refines relationships governing turbulent stress tensors and provides valuable insights into wave-induced stresses. It offers analytical solutions for both homogeneous and general coastal zones, laying the foundation for future advancements in numerical modeling techniques. Full article

Numerical modeling of wave transformation, hydrodynamics, and morphodynamics in coastal regions holds paramount significance for combating coastal erosion by evaluating and optimizing various coastal protection structures. This study aims to present an integration of numerical models to accurately simulate the coastal processes with the presence of coastal and harbor structures. Specifically, integrated modeling employs an advanced mild slope model as the main driver, which is capable of describing all the wave transformation phenomena, including wave reflection. This model provides radiation stresses as inputs to a hydrodynamic model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations to simulate nearshore currents. Ultimately, these models feed an additional model that can simulate longshore sediment transport and bed level changes. The models are validated against experimental measurements, including energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave breaking; combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking over a submerged shoal; wave transformation and wave-generated currents over submerged breakwaters; and wave, currents, and sediment transport fields over a varying bathymetry. The models exhibit satisfactory performance in simulating all considered cases, establishing them as efficient and reliable integrated tools for engineering applications in real coastal areas. Moreover, leveraging the validated models, a numerical investigation is undertaken to assess the effects of wave reflection on a seawall on coastal processes for two ideal beach configurations—one with a steeper slope of 1:10 and another with a milder slope of 1:50. The numerical investigation reveals that the presence of reflected waves, particularly in milder bed slopes, significantly influences sediment transport, emphasizing the importance of employing a wave model that takes into account wave reflection as the primary driver for integrated modeling of coastal processes. Full article

The spatial distribution of sediments on the seafloor reflects the various dynamic processes involved in the marine realm. To analyze sediment transport patterns in the North Aegean Sea, 323 surficial samples were obtained and studied. The granulometry data revealed a diverse range of grain sizes of surficial sediments, ranging from purely sandy to clay. The predominant size classes were silt and muddy sand, followed by sandy silt and mud. However, there were very few samples that fell within the clay classes. The sorting coefficient ranged from 0.21 to 5.48, while skewness ranged from −1.09 to 1.29. The sediment transport patterns were analyzed based on the grain-size parameters (mean, sorting, and skewness). The results showed the variability of flow parameters involved in sediment distribution. River influx and longshore drift near the shoreline are the most significant factors affecting sediment transport. At the open sea, sediment distribution is mainly controlled by general water circulation patterns, especially by the outflow of low-salinity waters from the Black Sea through the Dardanelles and the Marmara Sea. The heterogeneity of sediment textural parameters across the study area suggests that seafloor sediments are further reworked in areas where water masses are highly energetic. It can be concluded that open sea water circulation controls sediment distribution patterns at the open shelf, while close to the coast, river discharge plays a key role. Full article

In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea where Typhoon Phanfone occurred in October 2014, and bathymetric surveys were performed before and after the typhoon. Hydrodynamic data were also measured to validate the modeled data. The performance of LW07 was tested by running the model in two modes, with and without LW07. First, the model was run to simulate the shoreline response to an imaginary coastal breakwater. The result showed a clear discrepancy between the two modes as the sediments were considerably cumulated behind the breakwater in the case with the swash-zone formula (LW07) in the wide range along the shoreline behind the breakwater, indicating that the sediments more actively and rapidly responded to the shadowing by the breakwater with LW07. The model was also run for a realistic case from August to October 2014, which included the typhoon’s period during 2–6 October. The results showed that the morphological changes at both ends of the beach in the swash zone were simulated with higher accuracy with LW07, supporting the effectiveness of LW07 in simulating the short-term morphological changes induced by the typhoon attack. In particular, the successful simulation of the sand accumulation at the end sides of the beach’s swash zone indicates that LW07 was effective in estimating not only the cross-shore transport but also longshore transport, which was likely due to the characteristics of LW07 that calculated sand transport in both directions. The enhanced modeling performance with LW07 was likely due to the adjustment of the sediment transport rate to the instantaneous changes in the local beach slope, which could successfully control the erosion/accretion process in the swash zone more realistically. Full article