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38 pages, 6505 KiB  
Review
Trends in Oil Spill Modeling: A Review of the Literature
by Rodrigo N. Vasconcelos, André T. Cunha Lima, Carlos A. D. Lentini, José Garcia V. Miranda, Luís F. F. de Mendonça, Diego P. Costa, Soltan G. Duverger and Elaine C. B. Cambui
Water 2025, 17(15), 2300; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17152300 (registering DOI) - 2 Aug 2025
Abstract
Oil spill simulation models are essential for predicting the oil spill behavior and movement in marine environments. In this study, we comprehensively reviewed a large and diverse body of peer-reviewed literature obtained from Scopus and Web of Science. Our initial analysis phase focused [...] Read more.
Oil spill simulation models are essential for predicting the oil spill behavior and movement in marine environments. In this study, we comprehensively reviewed a large and diverse body of peer-reviewed literature obtained from Scopus and Web of Science. Our initial analysis phase focused on examining trends in scientific publications, utilizing the complete dataset derived after systematic screening and database integration. In the second phase, we applied elements of a systematic review to identify and evaluate the most influential contributions in the scientific field of oil spill simulations. Our analysis revealed a steady and accelerating growth of research activity over the past five decades, with a particularly notable expansion in the last two. The field has also experienced a marked increase in collaborative practices, including a rise in international co-authorship and multi-authored contributions, reflecting a more global and interdisciplinary research landscape. We cataloged the key modeling frameworks that have shaped the field from established systems such as OSCAR, OIL-MAP/SIMAP, and GNOME to emerging hybrid and Lagrangian approaches. Hydrodynamic models were consistently central, often integrated with biogeochemical, wave, atmospheric, and oil-spill-specific modules. Environmental variables such as wind, ocean currents, and temperature were frequently used to drive model behavior. Geographically, research has concentrated on ecologically and economically sensitive coastal and marine regions. We conclude that future progress will rely on the real-time integration of high-resolution environmental data streams, the development of machine-learning-based surrogate models to accelerate computations, and the incorporation of advanced biodegradation and weathering mechanisms supported by experimental data. These advancements are expected to enhance the accuracy, responsiveness, and operational value of oil spill modeling tools, supporting environmental monitoring and emergency response. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Remote Sensing for Coastal System Monitoring and Management)
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20 pages, 753 KiB  
Article
Has the Free Trade Zone Enhanced the Regional Economic Resilience? Evidence from China
by Henglong Zhang and Congying Tian
Sustainability 2025, 17(15), 6951; https://doi.org/10.3390/su17156951 (registering DOI) - 31 Jul 2025
Viewed by 156
Abstract
This study examines the impact of free trade zone (FTZ) establishment on regional economic resilience (RER) in China, using provincial-level panel data spanning from 2010 to 2022 and a multi-period difference-in-differences (DID) approach. The empirical results indicate that FTZ implementation significantly enhances regional [...] Read more.
This study examines the impact of free trade zone (FTZ) establishment on regional economic resilience (RER) in China, using provincial-level panel data spanning from 2010 to 2022 and a multi-period difference-in-differences (DID) approach. The empirical results indicate that FTZ implementation significantly enhances regional economic resilience by 3.46%, with the development of green finance acting as a key moderating mechanism that amplifies this positive effect. Heterogeneity analysis uncovers notable disparities across policy cohorts and geographical regions: the first wave of FTZs demonstrates the most pronounced resilience-enhancing impact, whereas later cohorts exhibit weaker or even adverse effects. Coastal regions experience substantial benefits from FTZ policies, in contrast to statistically insignificant outcomes observed in inland areas. These findings suggest that strategically expanding the FTZ network, when paired with tailored implementation mechanisms and the integration of green finance, could serve as a powerful policy tool for post-COVID economic recovery. Importantly, by strengthening economic resilience through institutional openness and green investment, this study offers valuable insights into balancing economic growth with environmental sustainability. It provides empirical evidence to support the optimization of FTZ spatial governance and institutional innovation pathways, thereby contributing to the pursuit of sustainable regional development. Full article
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34 pages, 13488 KiB  
Review
Numeric Modeling of Sea Surface Wave Using WAVEWATCH-III and SWAN During Tropical Cyclones: An Overview
by Ru Yao, Weizeng Shao, Yuyi Hu, Hao Xu and Qingping Zou
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(8), 1450; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13081450 - 29 Jul 2025
Viewed by 128
Abstract
Extreme surface winds and wave heights of tropical cyclones (TCs)—pose serious threats to coastal community, infrastructure and environments. In recent decades, progress in numerical wave modeling has significantly enhanced the ability to reconstruct and predict wave behavior. This review offers an in-depth overview [...] Read more.
Extreme surface winds and wave heights of tropical cyclones (TCs)—pose serious threats to coastal community, infrastructure and environments. In recent decades, progress in numerical wave modeling has significantly enhanced the ability to reconstruct and predict wave behavior. This review offers an in-depth overview of TC-related wave modeling utilizing different computational schemes, with a special attention to WAVEWATCH III (WW3) and Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). Due to the complex air–sea interactions during TCs, it is challenging to obtain accurate wind input data and optimize the parameterizations. Substantial spatial and temporal variations in water levels and current patterns occurs when coastal circulation is modulated by varying underwater topography. To explore their influence on waves, this study employs a coupled SWAN and Finite-Volume Community Ocean Model (FVCOM) modeling approach. Additionally, the interplay between wave and sea surface temperature (SST) is investigated by incorporating four key wave-induced forcing through breaking and non-breaking waves, radiation stress, and Stokes drift from WW3 into the Stony Brook Parallel Ocean Model (sbPOM). 20 TC events were analyzed to evaluate the performance of the selected parameterizations of external forcings in WW3 and SWAN. Among different nonlinear wave interaction schemes, Generalized Multiple Discrete Interaction Approximation (GMD) Discrete Interaction Approximation (DIA) and the computationally expensive Wave-Ray Tracing (WRT) A refined drag coefficient (Cd) equation, applied within an upgraded ST6 configuration, reduce significant wave height (SWH) prediction errors and the root mean square error (RMSE) for both SWAN and WW3 wave models. Surface currents and sea level variations notably altered the wave energy and wave height distributions, especially in the area with strong TC-induced oceanic current. Finally, coupling four wave-induced forcings into sbPOM enhanced SST simulation by refining heat flux estimates and promoting vertical mixing. Validation against Argo data showed that the updated sbPOM model achieved an RMSE as low as 1.39 m, with correlation coefficients nearing 0.9881. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Ocean and Global Climate)
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26 pages, 8897 KiB  
Article
Numerical Study of Wave-Induced Longshore Current Generation Zones on a Circular Sandy Sloping Topography
by Mohammad Shaiful Islam, Tomoaki Nakamura, Yong-Hwan Cho and Norimi Mizutani
Water 2025, 17(15), 2263; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17152263 - 29 Jul 2025
Viewed by 224
Abstract
Wave deformation and sediment transport nearest the shoreside are among the main reasons for sand erosion and beach profile changes. In particular, identifying the areas of incident-wave breaking and longshore current generation parallel to the shoreline is important for understanding the morphological changes [...] Read more.
Wave deformation and sediment transport nearest the shoreside are among the main reasons for sand erosion and beach profile changes. In particular, identifying the areas of incident-wave breaking and longshore current generation parallel to the shoreline is important for understanding the morphological changes of coastal beaches. In this study, a two-phase incompressible flow model along with a sandy sloping topography was employed to investigate the wave deformation and longshore current generation areas in a circular wave basin model. The finite volume method (FVM) was implemented to discretize the governing equations in cylindrical coordinates, the volume-of-fluid method (VOF) was adopted to differentiate the air–water interfaces in the control cells, and the zonal embedded grid technique was employed for grid generation in the cylindrical computational domain. The water surface elevations and velocity profiles were measured in different wave conditions, and the measurements showed that the maximum water levels per wave were high and varied between cases, as well as between cross-sections in a single case. Additionally, the mean water levels were lower in the adjacent positions of the approximated wave-breaking zones. The wave-breaking positions varied between cross-sections in a single case, with the incident-wave height, mean water level, and wave-breaking position measurements indicating the influence of downstream flow variation in each cross-section on the sloping topography. The cross-shore velocity profiles became relatively stable over time, while the longshore velocity profiles predominantly moved in the alongshore direction, with smaller fluctuations, particularly during the same time period and in measurement positions near the wave-breaking zone. The computed velocity profiles also varied between cross-sections, and for the velocity profiles along the cross-shore and longshore directions nearest the wave-breaking areas where the downstream flow had minimal influence, it was presumed that there was longshore-current generation in the sloping topography nearest the shoreside. The computed results were compared with the experimental results and we observed similar characteristics for wave profiles in the same wave period case in both models. In the future, further investigations can be conducted using the presented circular wave basin model to investigate the oblique wave deformation and longshore current generation in different sloping and wave conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Numerical Modeling of Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport)
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37 pages, 10198 KiB  
Article
Mooring Evaluation of a Floating Offshore Wind Turbine Platform Under Rogue Wave Conditions Using a Coupled CFD-FEM Model
by Bo Li, Hao Qin, Haoran Zhang, Qibin Long, Donghao Ma and Chen Xu
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(8), 1443; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13081443 - 28 Jul 2025
Viewed by 269
Abstract
As the development of offshore wind energy transforms from coastal to deep-sea regions, designing a cost effective mooring system while ensuring the safety of floating offshore wind turbine (FOWT) remains a critical challenge, especially considering extreme wave environments. This study employs a model [...] Read more.
As the development of offshore wind energy transforms from coastal to deep-sea regions, designing a cost effective mooring system while ensuring the safety of floating offshore wind turbine (FOWT) remains a critical challenge, especially considering extreme wave environments. This study employs a model coupling computational fluid dynamics (CFD) and finite element method (FEM) to investigate the responses of a parked FOWT platform with its mooring system under rogue wave conditions. Specifically, the mooring dynamics are solved using a local discontinuous Galerkin (LDG) method, which is believed to provide high accuracy. Firstly, rogue wave generation and the coupled CFD-FEM are validated through comparisons with existing experimental and numerical data. Secondly, FOWT platform motions and mooring tensions caused by a rogue wave are obtained through simulations, which are compared with the ones caused by a similar peak-clipped rogue wave. Lastly, analysis of four different mooring design schemes is conducted to evaluate their performance on reducing the mooring tensions. The results indicate that the rogue wave leads to significantly enlarged FOWT platform motions and mooring tensions, while doubling the number of mooring lines with specific line angles provides the most balanced performance considering cost-effectiveness and structural safety under identical rogue wave conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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22 pages, 9790 KiB  
Article
Assessing the Hazard of Flooding from Breaching of the Alacranes Dam in Villa Clara, Cuba
by Victor Manuel Carvajal González, Carlos Lázaro Castillo García, Lisdelys González-Rodriguez, Luciana Silva and Jorge Jiménez
Sustainability 2025, 17(15), 6864; https://doi.org/10.3390/su17156864 - 28 Jul 2025
Viewed by 751
Abstract
Flooding due to dam failures is a critical issue with significant impacts on human safety, infrastructure, and the environment. This study assessed the potential flood hazard that could be generated from breaching of the Alacranes dam in Villa Clara, Cuba. Thirteen reservoir breaching [...] Read more.
Flooding due to dam failures is a critical issue with significant impacts on human safety, infrastructure, and the environment. This study assessed the potential flood hazard that could be generated from breaching of the Alacranes dam in Villa Clara, Cuba. Thirteen reservoir breaching scenarios were simulated under several criteria for modeling the flood wave through the 2D Saint Venant equations using the Hydrologic Engineering Center’s River Analysis System (HEC-RAS). A sensitivity analysis was performed on Manning’s roughness coefficient, demonstrating a low variability of the model outputs for these events. The results show that, for all modeled scenarios, the terrain topography of the coastal plain expands the flood wave, reaching a maximum width of up to 105,057 km. The most critical scenario included a 350 m breach in just 0.67 h. Flood, velocity, and hazard maps were generated, identifying populated areas potentially affected by the flooding events. The reported depths, velocities, and maximum flows could pose extreme danger to infrastructure and populated areas downstream. These types of studies are crucial for both risk assessment and emergency planning in the event of a potential dam breach. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Hazards and Sustainability)
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38 pages, 16643 KiB  
Article
Numerical Investigation of Inclination Effects on a Submerged Plate as Breakwater and Wave Energy Converter Under Realistic Sea State Waves
by Vitor Eduardo Motta, Gabrielle Ücker Thum, Maycon da Silveira Paiva, Rafael Adriano Alves Camargo Gonçalves, Luiz Alberto Oliveira Rocha, Elizaldo Domingues dos Santos, Bianca Neves Machado and Liércio André Isoldi
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(8), 1438; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13081438 - 28 Jul 2025
Viewed by 172
Abstract
This study investigates the influence of inclination on a submerged plate (SP) device acting as both a breakwater (BW) and a wave energy converter (WEC) subjected to representative regular and realistic irregular waves of a sea state across 11 inclination angles. Numerical simulations [...] Read more.
This study investigates the influence of inclination on a submerged plate (SP) device acting as both a breakwater (BW) and a wave energy converter (WEC) subjected to representative regular and realistic irregular waves of a sea state across 11 inclination angles. Numerical simulations were conducted using ANSYS Fluent. Regular waves were generated by Stokes’s second-order theory, while the WaveMIMO technique was employed to generate irregular waves. Using the volume of fluid (VOF) method to model the water–air interaction, both approaches generate waves by imposing their vertical and horizontal velocity components at the inlet of the wave flume. The SP’s performance as a BW was analyzed based on the upstream and downstream free surface elevations of the device; in turn, its performance as a WEC was determined through its axial velocity beneath the plate. The results indicate that performance varies between regular and irregular wave conditions, underscoring the importance of accurately characterizing the sea state at the intended installation site. These findings demonstrate that the inclination of the SP plays a critical role in balancing its dual functionality, with certain configurations enhancing WEC efficiency by over 50% while still offering relevant BW performance, even under realistic irregular sea conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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23 pages, 7095 KiB  
Article
Development of a Dual-Input Hybrid Wave–Current Ocean Energy System: Design, Fabrication, and Performance Evaluation
by Farooq Saeed, Tanvir M. Sayeed, Mohammed Abdul Hannan, Abdullah A. Baslamah, Aedh M. Alhassan, Turki K. Alarawi, Osama A. Alsaadi, Muhanad Y. Alharees and Sultan A. Alshehri
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(8), 1435; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13081435 - 27 Jul 2025
Viewed by 382
Abstract
This study presents the design, fabrication, and performance assessment of a novel, small-scale (30–70 W), hybrid ocean energy system that captures energy from wave-induced heave motion using a point-absorber buoy and from ocean currents via a vertical axis water turbine (VAWT). Key innovations [...] Read more.
This study presents the design, fabrication, and performance assessment of a novel, small-scale (30–70 W), hybrid ocean energy system that captures energy from wave-induced heave motion using a point-absorber buoy and from ocean currents via a vertical axis water turbine (VAWT). Key innovations include a custom designed and built dual-rotor generator that accepts independent mechanical input from both subsystems without requiring complex mechanical coupling and a bi-directional mechanical motion rectifier with an overdrive. Numerical simulations using ANSYS AQWA (2024R2) and QBLADE(2.0.4) guided the design optimization of the buoy and turbine, respectively. Wave resource assessment for the Khobar coastline, Saudi Arabia, was conducted using both historical data and field measurements. The prototype was designed and built using readily available 3D-printed components, ensuring cost-effective construction. This mechanically simple system was tested in both laboratory and outdoor conditions. Results showed reliable operation and stable power generation under simultaneous wave and current input. The performance is comparable to that of existing hybrid ocean wave–current energy converters that employ more complex flywheel or dual degree-of-freedom systems. This work provides a validated pathway for low-cost, compact, and modular hybrid ocean energy systems suited for remote coastal applications or distributed marine sensing platforms. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Marine Energy)
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21 pages, 12172 KiB  
Article
Risk Assessment of Storm Surge Disasters in a Semi-Enclosed Bay Under the Influence of Cold Waves: A Case Study of Laizhou Bay, China
by Hongyuan Shi, Shengnian Zhao, Ruiqi Zhu, Liqin Sun, Haixia Wang, Qing Wang and Chao Zhan
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(8), 1434; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13081434 - 27 Jul 2025
Viewed by 201
Abstract
Laizhou Bay, a semi-enclosed bay, is prone to storm surges from cold waves due to its geographic and environmental characteristics. This study uses satellite data, in situ measurements, and the MIKE numerical model to analyze storm surges along Laizhou Bay’s coast under no-dike [...] Read more.
Laizhou Bay, a semi-enclosed bay, is prone to storm surges from cold waves due to its geographic and environmental characteristics. This study uses satellite data, in situ measurements, and the MIKE numerical model to analyze storm surges along Laizhou Bay’s coast under no-dike conditions. It examines the surges caused by cold waves with different intensities and directions. This study provides the storm surge disaster risk levels along Laizhou Bay’s coast. The results show that the maximum sustained wind speed during cold waves is distributed between the NW and NE. The NE wind direction causes the most severe storm surge along Laizhou Bay. Under NE-directed cold waves with level 12 wind, the maximum risk areas for Level III and IV are approximately 1341 km2 and 1294 km2, respectively. Dongying, Shouguang, and Hanting exhibit large Level I and II risk zones. The maximum seawater intrusion distance along the Kenli coast is about 41 km. The coastal segment from Kenli to Changyi is most severely affected by storm surges. It is recommended to effectively maintain and heighten seawalls along this segment to mitigate storm surge disasters caused by strong NE winds. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Physical Oceanography)
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22 pages, 7144 KiB  
Article
Wave Height Forecasting in the Bay of Bengal Using Multivariate Hybrid Deep Learning Models
by Phyusin Thet, Aifeng Tao, Tao Lv and Jinhai Zheng
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(8), 1412; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13081412 - 24 Jul 2025
Viewed by 315
Abstract
The development in coastal engineering and maritime transport demands accurate wave height prediction. In this study, hybrid deep learning models, including CNN-LSTM, CNN-BiLSTM, CNN-GRU, and CNN-BiGRU, are employed to develop regional multivariate wave prediction models that incorporate multiple features, such as wave height, [...] Read more.
The development in coastal engineering and maritime transport demands accurate wave height prediction. In this study, hybrid deep learning models, including CNN-LSTM, CNN-BiLSTM, CNN-GRU, and CNN-BiGRU, are employed to develop regional multivariate wave prediction models that incorporate multiple features, such as wave height, wind stress, water depth, pressure, and sea surface temperature (SST), for the entire Bay of Bengal area. Sensitivity analysis is performed to evaluate the accuracy using statistical metrics, such as the correlation coefficient, RMSE, and MAE. The findings demonstrate that regional multivariate models offer satisfactory results for the entire Bay of Bengal region. The multivariate model performs better compared to the univariate model as the forecast horizon increases. Performance assessment of each environmental factor, employing the integrated gradient method, reveals that sea surface temperature has the most significant influence, while wind stress is the least dominant factor in the wave prediction model. Among the tested models, the CNN-BiGRU has superior performance with a correlation of 0.9872, an RMSE of 0.1547, and an MAE of 0.1005 for the 3 h prediction and is proposed as the optimal model. This study contributes to assessing the contribution of each environmental feature and improving the accuracy of regional wave prediction. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Physical Oceanography)
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8 pages, 2843 KiB  
Proceeding Paper
Coastal Erosion in Tsunami and Storm Surges-Exposed Areas in Licantén, Maule, Chile: Case Study Using Remote Sensing and In-Situ Data
by Joaquín Valenzuela-Jara, Idania Briceño de Urbaneja, Waldo Pérez-Martínez and Isidora Díaz-Quijada
Eng. Proc. 2025, 94(1), 10; https://doi.org/10.3390/engproc2025094010 - 24 Jul 2025
Viewed by 285
Abstract
This study examines urban expansion, coastal erosion, and extreme wave events in Licantén, Maule Region, following the 2010 earthquake and tsunami. Using multi-source data—Landsat and Sentinel-2 imagery, ERA5 reanalysis, high-resolution Maxar images, UAV surveys, and the CoastSat algorithm—we detected significant urban growth in [...] Read more.
This study examines urban expansion, coastal erosion, and extreme wave events in Licantén, Maule Region, following the 2010 earthquake and tsunami. Using multi-source data—Landsat and Sentinel-2 imagery, ERA5 reanalysis, high-resolution Maxar images, UAV surveys, and the CoastSat algorithm—we detected significant urban growth in tsunami-prone areas: Iloca (36.88%), La Pesca (33.34%), and Pichibudi (20.78%). A 39-year shoreline reconstruction (1985–2024) revealed notable changes in erosion rates and shoreline dynamics using DSAS v6.0, influenced by tides, storm surges, and wave action modeled in R to quantify storm surge events over time. Results underscore the lack of urban planning in hazard-exposed areas and the urgent need for resilient coastal management under climate change. Full article
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23 pages, 4912 KiB  
Article
A Dynamic Analysis of Oscillating Water Column Systems: Design of a 16 kW Wells Turbine for Coastal Energy Generation in Ecuador
by Brayan Ordoñez-Saca, Mayken Espinoza-Andaluz, Carlos Vallejo-Cervantes, Julio Barzola-Monteses, Marcos Guamán-Macias and Christian Aldaz-Trujillo
Processes 2025, 13(8), 2349; https://doi.org/10.3390/pr13082349 - 24 Jul 2025
Viewed by 308
Abstract
The work presents the design of an Oscillating Water Column (OWC) system with a nominal capacity of 16 kW, proposed as a contribution to reducing the energy gap in Ecuador, where electricity demand surpasses supply. The province of Santa Elena was selected as [...] Read more.
The work presents the design of an Oscillating Water Column (OWC) system with a nominal capacity of 16 kW, proposed as a contribution to reducing the energy gap in Ecuador, where electricity demand surpasses supply. The province of Santa Elena was selected as a promising site due to its favorable wave conditions and coastal location. The design process involved identifying areas with high wave energy potential, conducting a brief mathematical modeling analysis, and defining the parameters required for the system. Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) simulations were carried out in two stages: In the first stage, OpenFOAM was used to evaluate wave behavior, specifically flow velocity and pressure, before the water enters the generation chamber. In the second stage, a different CFD tool was used, incorporating the output data from OpenFOAM to simulate the energy conversion process inside the Wells turbine. This analysis focused on how the turbine captures and transforms the wave energy into usable power. The results show that, under ideal conditions, the system achieves an average power output of 11 kW. These findings suggest that implementing this type of system in coastal regions of Ecuador is both viable and beneficial for local energy development. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advances in Hydraulic Machinery and Systems)
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21 pages, 13177 KiB  
Article
Links Between the Coastal Climate, Landscape Hydrology, and Beach Dynamics near Cape Vidal, South Africa
by Mark R. Jury
Coasts 2025, 5(3), 25; https://doi.org/10.3390/coasts5030025 - 18 Jul 2025
Viewed by 260
Abstract
Coastal climate processes that affect landscape hydrology and beach dynamics are studied using local and remote data sets near Cape Vidal (28.12° S, 32.55° E). The sporadic intra-seasonal pulsing of coastal runoff, vegetation, and winds is analyzed to understand sediment inputs and transport [...] Read more.
Coastal climate processes that affect landscape hydrology and beach dynamics are studied using local and remote data sets near Cape Vidal (28.12° S, 32.55° E). The sporadic intra-seasonal pulsing of coastal runoff, vegetation, and winds is analyzed to understand sediment inputs and transport by near-shore wind-waves and currents. River-borne sediments, eroded coral substrates, and reworked beach sand are mobilized by frequent storms. Surf-zone currents ~0.4 m/s instill the northward transport of ~6 105 kg/yr/m. An analysis of the mean annual cycle over the period of 1997–2024 indicates a crest of rainfall over the Umfolozi catchment during summer (Oct–Mar), whereas coastal suspended sediment, based on satellite red-band reflectivity, rises in winter (Apr–Sep) due to a deeper mixed layer and larger northward wave heights. Sediment input to the beaches near Cape Vidal exhibit a 3–6-year cycle of southeasterly waves and rainy weather associated with cool La Nina tropical sea temperatures. Beachfront sand dunes are wind-swept and release sediment at ~103 m3/yr/m, which builds tall back-dunes and helps replenish the shoreline, especially during anticyclonic dry spells. A wind event in Nov 2018 is analyzed to quantify aeolian transport, and a flood in Jan–Feb 2025 is studied for river plumes that meet with stormy seas. Management efforts to limit development and recreational access have contributed to a sustainable coastal environment despite rising tides and inland temperatures. Full article
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15 pages, 1508 KiB  
Article
Satellite and Statistical Approach for the Characterization of Coastal Storms Causing Damage on the Dakar Coast, Capital of Senegal (West Africa)
by Cheikh Omar Tidjani Cisse
Coasts 2025, 5(3), 24; https://doi.org/10.3390/coasts5030024 - 16 Jul 2025
Viewed by 279
Abstract
Today, coastal storms represent one of the most formidable environmental challenges, causing significant impacts on coastal communities. This situation underscores both the importance and urgency of studying storms and their characterization. This study proposes an innovative approach combining Principal Component Analysis (PCA) and [...] Read more.
Today, coastal storms represent one of the most formidable environmental challenges, causing significant impacts on coastal communities. This situation underscores both the importance and urgency of studying storms and their characterization. This study proposes an innovative approach combining Principal Component Analysis (PCA) and machine learning (Classification and Regression Trees, CART) to characterize and distinguish damaging storms from non-damaging ones along the coast of Dakar, Senegal. The analysis revealed that among several hydrometeorological variables studied (wave height, period, direction, runup, wave energy, sea level anomaly, tide, etc.), the variables SLA and tide play a central role in the occurrence of damage, although they are weakly correlated with the others. By cross-analyzing these variables, critical thresholds were established, such as Tide > 0.53 m combined with SLA ≥ 0.061 m, Tide > 0.53 m and ECWL ≥ 1.3 m, as well as Runup ≤ 0.64 m associated with a high wave period (Tp), allowing accurate differentiation of potentially damaging storms. The CART method validated these results and identified three key combinations: (1) Tide–SLA, where no damage is observed if Tide < 0.53 m, and damage occurs beyond this threshold when SLA ≥ 0.061 m; (2) Tide–ECWL, where storms are damaging if Tide > 0.53 m and ECWL ≥ 1.3 m; (3) Runup–Tp, where storms are damaging if Runup ≤ 0.64 m or if Runup > 0.82 m with Tp ≥ 16 s. These results constitute the first application of machine learning for storm classification on the Senegalese coast, providing a novel quantitative foundation for better understanding the hydrodynamic conditions associated with damaging storms. The findings of this study could be valuable for risk management and the development of early warning systems Full article
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29 pages, 3959 KiB  
Article
Hindcasting Extreme Significant Wave Heights Under Fetch-Limited Conditions with Tree-Based Models
by Damjan Bujak, Hanna Miličević, Goran Lončar and Dalibor Carević
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(7), 1355; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13071355 - 16 Jul 2025
Viewed by 193
Abstract
Accurately hindcasting waves in semi-enclosed, fetch-limited basins remains challenging for reanalysis models, which tend to underestimate storm peaks near the coast. We developed interpretable ML models for Rijeka Bay (northern Adriatic) using only wind observations from two land-based wind stations to predict buoy [...] Read more.
Accurately hindcasting waves in semi-enclosed, fetch-limited basins remains challenging for reanalysis models, which tend to underestimate storm peaks near the coast. We developed interpretable ML models for Rijeka Bay (northern Adriatic) using only wind observations from two land-based wind stations to predict buoy Hm0 measurements spanning 2009–2011 (testing) and 2019–2021 (training and validation). The tested tree-based models included Random Forest, XGBoost, and Explainable Boosting Machine. This study introduces a novel approach in the literature by employing weighted schemes and feature engineering to enhance the predictive performance of interpretable, low-complexity machine learning models in hindcasting waves. Representing wind direction as sine–cosine components generally reduced RMSE and BIAS relative to traditional speed–direction inputs, while an exponential sample weight scheme that emphasized storm waves halved extreme Hm0 underprediction without inflating overall RMSE. The best-performing model, a Random Forest model, achieved an RMSE of 0.096 m and a correlation of 0.855 on the unseen test set—30% lower overall RMSE and 50% lower extreme wave RMSE than the MEDSEA and COEXMED hindcasts. Additionally, the underprediction was reduced by 90% compared to these reanalysis models. The method offers a computationally lightweight, transferable supplement to numerical wave guidance for coastal engineering and harbor operations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Machine Learning in Coastal Engineering)
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