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A special issue of Marine Drugs (ISSN 1660-3397). This special issue belongs to the section "Marine-Derived Ingredients for Drugs, Cosmeceuticals and Nutraceuticals".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 May 2024) | Viewed by 23466

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Dr. Jose Luis Legido

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Department of Applied Physics, Universidad de Vigo, Spain
Interests: Balneotherapy; thalassotherapy; microalgae
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Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

This Special Issue of Marine Drugs, entitled “Marine Cosmeceuticals”, aims to collect papers containing up-to-date information regarding the historical and potential use of marine resources, their secondary metabolites, as well as their overall molecular constituents.

Marine organisms constitute an important source of bioactive compounds, including proteins and peptides, polysaccharides, polyphenols, pigments, and mycosporine-like amino acids, among others, that are of a great interest to the cosmetics industry.

This Special Issue will cover all the most recent advances in the field of marine resources research and discuss how these approaches contribute to defining innovative trends in marine cosmeceuticals formulations.

Dr. Jose Luis Legido
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Marine Drugs is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2900 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

cosmeceuticals
marine compounds
marine ingredients
marine antioxidants
marine polysaccharides
marine proteins
marine polyphenols
seaweed and cosmeceuticals
marine microalgae and cosmeceuticals

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Published Papers (7 papers)

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Research

14 pages, 853 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Improving the Value Utilization of Tuna Peptide Powder for the Cosmetics Field Through Ozone Oxidation

by Haolong Zheng, Shiyang Gu, Shiqi Huang, Yan Zhang, Feng Xu, Daofei Lv, Wenbing Yuan, Kongyu Zhu and Xin Chen

Mar. Drugs 2025, 23(5), 191; https://doi.org/10.3390/md23050191 - 28 Apr 2025

Viewed by 335

Abstract

The existing in vitro and clinical trial evidence supports the health and wellness benefits of collagen peptides sourced from various origins. Despite this, research on collagen peptides from tuna remains limited. Notably, tuna-derived peptides possess an inherent fishy odor, rendering them unsuitable for direct application in humans. This study explores the enhancement of tuna peptides’ applicability in cosmetics through odor mitigation. We developed a dual-phase ozone treatment, employing both dry and wet ozone, to deodorize tuna peptide powder, enabling its use in cosmetic formulations. The deodorized tuna peptide powder can be used in cosmetics. We optimized the ozone nitrification and deodorization conditions for tuna peptide powder by adjusting the treatment time, ozone concentration, and temperature. Sensory evaluation and GC-MS analysis confirmed the effectiveness of fishy odor removal, offering a comprehensive understanding of the deodorization process. The findings reveal that wet ozonation at 50 °C with an ozone concentration of 99.1 mg/L for 40 min significantly reduces the fishy odor of tuna peptide powder. Notably, n-Hexaldehyde, the primary odor-contributing volatile compound, decreased by 66.5%, confirming the efficacy of ozone treatment in odor mitigation. Moreover, the protein activity within the powder remained unaffected, ensuring the preservation of its functional properties. This study demonstrates the efficacy of ozone oxidation in adapting tuna peptide powder for cosmetic use. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Marine Cosmeceuticals)

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24 pages, 1100 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Eco-Friendly Extraction of Phlorotannins from Padina pavonica: Identification Related to Purification Methods Towards Innovative Cosmetic Applications

by Moustapha Nour, Valérie Stiger-Pouvreau, Alain Guenneguez, Laurence Meslet-Cladière, Stéphane Cérantola, Ahmed Ali, Gaelle Simon, Abdourahman Daher and Sylvain Petek

Mar. Drugs 2025, 23(1), 15; https://doi.org/10.3390/md23010015 - 28 Dec 2024

Viewed by 1228

Abstract

This study focuses on developing innovative and eco-friendly purification methods for the isolation of bioactive compounds derived from Padina pavonica, a brown abundant macroalga in Djibouti. Three distinct fractions, obtained via liquid-liquid extraction (LLE_FAE), solid-phase extraction (SPE_WE50), and flash chromatography (FC_EtOH20), were selected based on their high phenolic content and antioxidant activities. All fractions were also evaluated for their anti-ageing potential by assessing their ability to inhibit two vital skin-ageing enzymes, tyrosinase and elastase. Structural analysis by ¹H-¹³C HMBC NMR and LC-MS revealed a selectivity of phlorotannins depending on the purification methods. The LLE_FAE fraction exhibited greater structural complexity, including compounds such as phloroglucinol, diphlorethol/difucol, fucophlorethol and bifuhalol, which likely contribute to its enhanced bioactivity compared to the fractions obtained by FC_EtOH20 and SPE_WE50, which were also active and enriched only in phloroglucinol and fucophlorethol. These findings highlight the impact of purification techniques on the selective enrichment of specific bioactive compounds and demonstrated the interest of FC or SPE in producing active phlorotannin-enriched fractions. These two purification methods hold strong potential for innovative cosmeceutical applications. Results are discussed regarding the use of P. pavonica as a promising marine resource in Djibouti to be used for the development of cosmetic industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Marine Cosmeceuticals)

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17 pages, 5163 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Fermented Fish Collagen Attenuates Melanogenesis via Decreasing UV-Induced Oxidative Stress

by Kyung-A Byun, So Young Lee, Seyeon Oh, Sosorburam Batsukh, Jong-Won Jang, Bae-Jin Lee, Kyoung-min Rheu, Sichao Li, Min-Seok Jeong, Kuk Hui Son and Kyunghee Byun

Mar. Drugs 2024, 22(9), 421; https://doi.org/10.3390/md22090421 - 15 Sep 2024

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 2205

Abstract

Excessive melanogenesis leads to hyperpigmentation-related cosmetic problems. UV exposure increases oxidative stress, which promotes melanogenesis-related signal pathways such as the PKA, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP2) pathways. Glycine is a source of endogenous antioxidants, including glutathione. Fermented fish collagen (FC) contains glycine; thus, we evaluated the effect of FC on decreasing melanogenesis via decreasing oxidative stress. The glycine receptor (GlyR) and glycine transporter-1 (GlyT1) levels were decreased in UV-irradiated keratinocytes; however, the expression levels of these proteins increased upon treatment with FC. The FC decreased oxidative stress, as indicated by the decreasing expression of NOX1/2/4, increased expression of GSH/GSSG, increased SOD activity, and decreased 8-OHdG expression in UV-irradiated keratinocytes. Administration of conditioned media from FC-treated keratinocytes to melanocytes led to decreased p38, PKC, MITF, TRP1, and TRP2 expression. These changes induced by the FC were also observed in UV-irradiated animal skin. FC treatment increased the expression of GlyR and GlyT, which was accompanied by decreased oxidative stress in the UV-irradiated skin. Moreover, the FC negatively regulated the melanogenesis signaling pathways, leading to decreased melanin content in the UV-irradiated skin. In conclusion, FC decreased UV-induced oxidative stress and melanogenesis in melanocytes and animal skin. FC could be used in the treatment of UV-induced hyperpigmentation problems. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Marine Cosmeceuticals)

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18 pages, 11765 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Antioxidant and Skin-Whitening Efficacy of a Novel Decapeptide (DP, KGYSSYICDK) Derived from Fish By-Products

by Sung-Gyu Lee, Jin-Woo Hwang and Hyun Kang

Mar. Drugs 2024, 22(8), 374; https://doi.org/10.3390/md22080374 - 20 Aug 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2270

Abstract

The skin is vulnerable to damage from ultraviolet rays and oxidative stress, which can lead to aging and pigmentation issues. This study investigates the antioxidant and whitening efficacy of a decapeptide (DP, KGYSSYICDK) derived from marine fish by-products and evaluates its potential as a new skin-whitening agent. DP demonstrated high antioxidant activity, showing comparable or superior performance to Vitamin C (Vit. C) in ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays. In hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂)-treated HaCaT cells, DP increased cell viability and reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. Furthermore, DP inhibited tyrosinase activity and decreased melanin production in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner. Reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) analysis revealed that DP reduces the mRNA expression of MITF, tyrosinase, and MC1R, thus suppressing melanin production. DP exhibits strong binding interactions with multiple amino acid residues of tyrosinase, indicating potent inhibitory effects on the enzyme. These results suggest that DP possesses significant antioxidant and whitening properties, highlighting its potential as a skin-whitening agent. Future research should focus on optimizing DP’s structure and exploring structure–activity relationships. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Marine Cosmeceuticals)

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17 pages, 5421 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Biocosmetics Made with Saccharina latissima Fractions from Sustainable Treatment: Physicochemical and Thermorheological Features

by Noelia Flórez-Fernández, Tania Ferreira-Anta, Julie Queffelec, Isa B. Ingrez, Manuela Buján, Antonio Muiños, Herminia Domínguez and María Dolores Torres

Mar. Drugs 2023, 21(12), 618; https://doi.org/10.3390/md21120618 - 29 Nov 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2373

Abstract

This work deals with the formulation of natural cosmetics enriched with antioxidant fractions from the ultrasound treatment (US) of the brown seaweed Saccharina latissima. The challenge was the development of a cosmetic matrix without jeopardizing the thermorheological features of the creams, adding microparticles containing the antioxidant fractions using two different carriers, mannitol and alginate. The fundamental chemical characteristics of seaweed and the extracts obtained via sonication, as well as the antioxidant properties of the latter, were analyzed. The highest TEAC (Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity) value was identified for the extracts subjected to the longest processing time using ultrasound-assisted extraction (240 min). A similar yield of microparticle formulation (around 60%) and load capacity (about 85%) were identified with mannitol and alginate as carriers. Color testing of the creams exhibited small total color differences. The rheological results indicated that the testing temperature, from 5 to 45 °C, notably influenced the apparent viscosity of the matrices. All creams were adequately fitted with the two parameters of the Ostwald–de Waele model, with the flow consistency index following an Arrhenius dependency with the testing temperature. Neither hysteresis nor water syneresis was observed in the proposed cosmetics during 6 months of cold storage at 4–6 °C. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Marine Cosmeceuticals)

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18 pages, 2897 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Collagen Hydrolysate from the Scales of Mozambique Tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus) Improve Hair and Skin Health by Alleviating Oxidative Stress and Inflammation and Promoting Hair Growth and Extracellular Matrix Factors

by Su Bin Hwang, Hyeon Ju Park and Bog-Hieu Lee

Mar. Drugs 2023, 21(9), 475; https://doi.org/10.3390/md21090475 - 29 Aug 2023

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 5496

Abstract

Fish-derived collagen hydrolysate (CH) has shown promise in improving hair and skin health. Therefore, this study sought to comprehensively assess the effects of CH extracted from Mozambique tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus) scales on hair and skin using in vitro and in vivo models. Human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) were used for antioxidant and gene expression analyses, while C57BL/6 mice were orally administered CH for six weeks to assess hair growth patterns. The mice were divided into four groups: negative control (NC; distilled water), positive control (PC; 1 mg/kg finasteride), CH500 (500 mg/kg BW CH), and CH1000 (1000 mg/kg BW CH). CH mitigated catalase activity reduction in hDPCs, increased IGF-1 and VEGF levels, and decreased TGF-β1, TNF-α, and IL-1β expression. In vivo, CH treatment improved hair growth index, length, diameter, weight, and density. Scanning electron microscopy revealed reduced hair damage. Moreover, CH up-regulated IGF-1, VEGF, Elastin, and HAS2 mRNA expression while down-regulating TNF-α and IL-1β. CH enhanced hair shine, growth, and skin health while alleviating inflammation. These findings demonstrate the potential of CH in alleviating oxidative stress, promoting hair growth, and enhancing skin health, both in vitro and in vivo. Fish-derived CH offers a cost-effective and bioavailable option for improving hair and skin health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Marine Cosmeceuticals)

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32 pages, 3833 KiB

Open AccessFeature PaperArticle

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component

by Haresh S. Kalasariya, Leonel Pereira and Nikunj B. Patel

Mar. Drugs 2023, 21(7), 385; https://doi.org/10.3390/md21070385 - 29 Jun 2023

Cited by 14 | Viewed by 8617

Abstract

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts’ ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC₅₀ value of 36.75 μg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC₅₀ value of 42.784 μg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii’s potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Marine Cosmeceuticals)

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