Marine Cosmeceuticals

This work deals with the formulation of natural cosmetics enriched with antioxidant fractions from the ultrasound treatment (US) of the brown seaweed Saccharina latissima. The challenge was the development of a cosmetic matrix without jeopardizing the thermorheological features of the creams, adding microparticles containing the antioxidant fractions using two different carriers, mannitol and alginate. The fundamental chemical characteristics of seaweed and the extracts obtained via sonication, as well as the antioxidant properties of the latter, were analyzed. The highest TEAC (Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity) value was identified for the extracts subjected to the longest processing time using ultrasound-assisted extraction (240 min). A similar yield of microparticle formulation (around 60%) and load capacity (about 85%) were identified with mannitol and alginate as carriers. Color testing of the creams exhibited small total color differences. The rheological results indicated that the testing temperature, from 5 to 45 °C, notably influenced the apparent viscosity of the matrices. All creams were adequately fitted with the two parameters of the Ostwald–de Waele model, with the flow consistency index following an Arrhenius dependency with the testing temperature. Neither hysteresis nor water syneresis was observed in the proposed cosmetics during 6 months of cold storage at 4–6 °C. Full article

Fish-derived collagen hydrolysate (CH) has shown promise in improving hair and skin health. Therefore, this study sought to comprehensively assess the effects of CH extracted from Mozambique tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus) scales on hair and skin using in vitro and in vivo models. Human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) were used for antioxidant and gene expression analyses, while C57BL/6 mice were orally administered CH for six weeks to assess hair growth patterns. The mice were divided into four groups: negative control (NC; distilled water), positive control (PC; 1 mg/kg finasteride), CH500 (500 mg/kg BW CH), and CH1000 (1000 mg/kg BW CH). CH mitigated catalase activity reduction in hDPCs, increased IGF-1 and VEGF levels, and decreased TGF-β1, TNF-α, and IL-1β expression. In vivo, CH treatment improved hair growth index, length, diameter, weight, and density. Scanning electron microscopy revealed reduced hair damage. Moreover, CH up-regulated IGF-1, VEGF, Elastin, and HAS2 mRNA expression while down-regulating TNF-α and IL-1β. CH enhanced hair shine, growth, and skin health while alleviating inflammation. These findings demonstrate the potential of CH in alleviating oxidative stress, promoting hair growth, and enhancing skin health, both in vitro and in vivo. Fish-derived CH offers a cost-effective and bioavailable option for improving hair and skin health. Full article

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts’ ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC₅₀ value of 36.75 μg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC₅₀ value of 42.784 μg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii’s potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties. Full article