Search Results (97)

The mapping and monitoring of coastal regions are critical to ensure their sustainable use and viability in the long term. Delineation of coastlines is becoming increasingly important in the light of climate change and rising sea levels. However, many coastlines are highly dynamic; therefore, mono-temporal assessments of coastal ecosystems and coastlines are mere snapshots of limited practical value for space-based planning. Understanding of the spatio-temporal dynamics of coastal ecosystem boundaries is important to inform ecosystem management but also for a meaningful delineation of the high-water mark, which is used as a benchmark for coastal spatial planning in South Africa. This research aimed to use hyper-temporal Sentinel-2 imagery to extract ecological zones on the coast of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. A total of 613 images, collected between 2019 and 2023, were classified into four distinct coastal ecological zones—vegetation, bare, surf, and water—using a Random Forest model. Across all classifications, the percentage of each of the four classes’ occurrence per pixel over time was determined. This enabled the identification of ecosystem locations, spatially static ecosystem boundaries, and the occurrence of ecosystem boundaries with a more dynamic location over time, such as the non-permanent vegetation zone of the foredune area as well as the intertidal zone. The overall accuracy of the model was 98.13%, while the Kappa coefficient was 0.975, with user’s and producer’s accuracies ranging between 93.02% and 100%. These results indicate that cloud-based analysis of Sentinel-2 time series holds potential not just for delineating coastal ecosystem boundaries, but also for enhancing the understanding of spatio-temporal dynamics between them, to inform meaningful environmental management, spatial planning, and climate adaptation strategies. Full article

Coastal climate processes that affect landscape hydrology and beach dynamics are studied using local and remote data sets near Cape Vidal (28.12° S, 32.55° E). The sporadic intra-seasonal pulsing of coastal runoff, vegetation, and winds is analyzed to understand sediment inputs and transport by near-shore wind-waves and currents. River-borne sediments, eroded coral substrates, and reworked beach sand are mobilized by frequent storms. Surf-zone currents ~0.4 m/s instill the northward transport of ~6 10⁵ kg/yr/m. An analysis of the mean annual cycle over the period of 1997–2024 indicates a crest of rainfall over the Umfolozi catchment during summer (Oct–Mar), whereas coastal suspended sediment, based on satellite red-band reflectivity, rises in winter (Apr–Sep) due to a deeper mixed layer and larger northward wave heights. Sediment input to the beaches near Cape Vidal exhibit a 3–6-year cycle of southeasterly waves and rainy weather associated with cool La Nina tropical sea temperatures. Beachfront sand dunes are wind-swept and release sediment at ~10³ m³/yr/m, which builds tall back-dunes and helps replenish the shoreline, especially during anticyclonic dry spells. A wind event in Nov 2018 is analyzed to quantify aeolian transport, and a flood in Jan–Feb 2025 is studied for river plumes that meet with stormy seas. Management efforts to limit development and recreational access have contributed to a sustainable coastal environment despite rising tides and inland temperatures. Full article

Nearshore bathymetry is key to most oceanographic studies and coastal engineering works. This work proposes a new methodology to assess nearshore wave celerity and infer bathymetry from video images. Shoaling and breaking wave patterns were detected on the Timestacks distinctly, and wave celerity was estimated from wave trajectories. The wave type separation enabled the implementation of specific domain formulations for depth inversion: linear for shoaling and non-linear for breaking waves. The technique was validated over a rocky bottom using video acquisition of an online streaming webcam for a period of two days, with significant wave heights varying between 1.7 m and 3.5 m. The results were corroborated in comparison to ground-truth data available up to a depth of 10 m, yielding a mean bias of 0.05 m and a mean root mean square error (RMSE) of 0.43 m. In particular, RMSE was lower than 15% in the outer surf zone, where breaking processes occur. Overall, the depth-normalized RMSE was always lower than 20%, with the major inaccuracy due to some local depressions, which were not resolved. The developed technique can be readily applied to images collected by coastal monitoring stations worldwide and is applicable to drone video acquisitions. Full article

Accurate predictions of beach user numbers are important for coastal management, resource allocation, and minimising safety risks, especially when considering surf-zone hazards. The present work applies an XGBoost model to predict beach attendance from automatically video-derived data, incorporating input variables such as weather, waves, tide, and time (e.g., day hour, weekday). This approach is applied to data collected from Biscarrosse Beach during the summer of 2023, where beach attendance varied significantly (from 0 to 2031 individuals). Results indicate that the optimal XGBoost model achieved high predictive accuracy, with a coefficient of determination ($R^2$) of 0.97 and an RMSE of 70.4 users, using daily mean weather data, tide and time as input variables, i.e., disregarding wave data. The model skilfully captures both day-to-day and hourly variability in attendance, with time of day (hour) and daily mean air temperature being the most influential variables. An XGBoost model using only daily mean temperature and hour of the day even shows good predictive accuracy ($R^2$ = 0.90). The study emphasises the importance of daily mean weather data over instantaneous measurements, as beach users tend to plan visits based on forecasts. This model offers reliable, computationally inexpensive, and high-frequency (e.g., every 10 min) beach user predictions which, combined with existing surf-zone hazard forecast models, can be used to anticipate life risk at the beach. Full article

Based on the field data of laser interference devices obtained on the shelf of the Sea of Japan, the interaction of internal sea waves with the bottom and the transfer of energy from the sea wave to the seismic acoustic wave were studied. It has been established that when internal waves move from the depth dump to the surf zone, they transform, and their period decreases. When the energy of the internal wave is transformed into elastic bottom vibrations, the flow density is estimated to spread evenly over a shelf about 30 km wide. Taking into account the maximum amplitudes of elastic bottom vibrations caused by offshore internal waves, the density of the seismic energy flux will increase by 2–3 orders of magnitude and will be comparable to the density of the seismic energy flux caused by surface sea waves. Full article

Understanding the evolution of the sandbar–trough system under regular wave conditions is essential for revealing the dynamic responses of coastal morphology in non-extreme environments and provides a scientific basis for long-term beach stability assessments and coastal erosion management. This study conducted a three-day field observation on Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China, to investigate the coupling relationships between hydrodynamic factors and bed elevation changes during the morphological evolution of the sandbar–trough system. The results indicate that gravity wave (>0.04 Hz) energy is a key driver of bed elevation changes. During the erosion phase, gravity wave energy increases, and the peak wave energy frequency shifts toward lower frequencies, accompanied by a contraction of low-frequency energy and an expansion of high-frequency energy. In contrast, the accretion phase exhibits the opposite pattern. As the sandbar–trough system developed, the explanatory power of hydrodynamic factors on bed elevation decreased by 41% in the trough region and increased by 3.7% in the sandbar region, indicating a spatially differentiated pattern characterized by weakened forcing in the trough and enhanced response over the sandbar. During the geomorphic adjustment process, the trough area exhibited increased sensitivity, with gravity wave energy, near-infragravity wave (0.01–0.04 Hz) energy, far-infragravity wave (0.004–0.01 Hz) energy, mean wave height, and significant wave steepness reversing their influence directions on bed elevation. In contrast, the sandbar area maintained a more stable hydrodynamic control mechanism, with only the influence pattern of significant wave steepness undergoing a shift. This study enhances the understanding of geomorphology–hydrodynamics coupling within nearshore sandbar–trough systems and provides theoretical insights and technical support for monitoring and evaluating coastal erosion and accretion processes under normal wave conditions. Full article

This study examines the surf and swash zone dynamics of a microtidal, low-energy, dissipative beach in Kos Island, Greece, using high-frequency optical monitoring with a Beach Optical Monitoring System (BOMS) and in situ wave measurements during the winter period. Increased wave heights induced the offshore migration of the wave-breaking zone with significant alongshore variability; however, no triggering of NOM (Net Offshore Movement) behavior was verified, while occasional rhythmic patterns were observed in the breaking location under moderate wave conditions. Shoreline dynamics showed transient erosional episodes coupled with elevated run-up excursions, yet the shoreline showed signs of recovery, suggesting a quasi-equilibrium state. Run-up energy spectra were consistently dominated by lower frequencies than those of incoming waves under both low- and high-energy conditions. This behavior is attributed to the nearshore sandbars acting as low-pass filters, dissipating high-frequency wave energy and allowing for lower-frequency motions to dominate run-up processes. A widely used empirical wave run-up predictor corresponded well with the video observations, confirming its applicability to low-energy dissipative beaches. These results underscore the role of submerged sandbars in regulating wave energy dissipation and stabilizing beach morphology under low-to-moderate wave conditions. Full article

Dump sites harbour microorganisms with potential for environmentally friendly industrial applications. This study assessed the lipolytic activity of municipal dumpsite-associated bacteria and evaluated the stability of the most potent isolate’s lipolytic enzyme against laundry detergents. It also examined the crude lipase’s ability to remove stains from cotton fabric. Among twelve bacteria isolated, five demonstrated notable halo zones on tributyrin agar plates. The diameters (mm) were MN38 (11 ± 1.4), MN1310 (8.5 ± 0.7), MN28 (6.5 ± 0.71), MN18 (7.0 ± 1.4), and MN310 (8.15 ± 0.21). Quantitative analysis revealed that MN38 exhibited the highest lipase activity (14.76 ± 0.27 U/mL), while MN1310 showed the lowest (6.40 ± 0.85 U/mL). Nucleotide sequence analysis identified the isolates as Raoultella terrigena veli18 (MN38), Stenotrophomonas maltophilia veli96 (MN1310), Viridibacillus sp. veli10 (MN28), Stenotrophomonas sp. veli19 (MN18), and Klebsiella sp. veli70 (MN310). The crude lipase from R. terrigena veli18 maintained 73.33%, 52.67%, 55.0%, and 54.0% of its original activity after 60 min of exposure to Sunlight, Surf, Maq, and Omo, respectively. Adding crude lipase to enzyme-free laundry detergents significantly enhanced their cleaning efficacy, completely removing oil stains from cotton fabric. This performance of R. terrigena veli18 crude lipase highlights its potential as an effective detergent bio-additive. Full article

Surf zones are important nursery grounds for fish larvae and juveniles. However, little is known about fish larvae and juveniles in the surf zone along the coast of Jiangsu Province. To describe the species composition of fish larvae and juveniles, monthly collections were conducted at eight stations during the spring tide from February 2024 to January 2025. The fish larvae and juveniles were sampled using a seine net (1m × 4m; 1 mm mesh aperture), with sampling repeated three times at each station per month. A total of 1435 fish larvae and juveniles were collected, belonging to 42 species and 37 genera in 21 families. Almost half of them were postflexion larvae. Gobiidae, with 14 species, was the most diverse family. Based on the index of relative importance (IRI) result, the dominant species was Amoya pflaumi, accounting for 35.33% of the total number of individuals collected. Common species were Mugil cephalus, Amblychaeturichthys hexanema, Tridentiger trigonocephalus, Acanthogobius ommaturus, Mugilogobius abei, Thryssa mystax, Periophthalmus modestus, Sillago sihama, and Mugilogobius myxodermus. All other species were classified as rare. No fish larvae or juveniles were collected in February 2024 and January 2025. The species number, catch per unit effort (CPUE), Margalef’s richness index, Pielou’s evenness index, and Shannon–Wiener diversity index showed similar trends, and significant differences could be found for each parameter among sampling months. The cluster analysis from the ten months (excluding February 2024 and January 2025) indicated a significant seasonal change in the community structure of fish larvae and juveniles. Fish larvae and juveniles were abundant and diverse at one station near an aquaculture tidal flat for seaweed. This study provides essential basic data to support the management and conservation of fishery resources in the surf zone along the coast of Jiangsu Province. Full article

Rip currents are fast-moving, narrow channels of water that flow seaward from the shoreline, typically forming within the surf zone and extending beyond the wave-breaking region. These currents pose significant hazards to swimmers, contributing to numerous drowning incidents, especially with the increasing popularity of ocean recreation. Despite their prevalence, rip currents remain difficult to detect visually, and no universally reliable method exists for their identification by beachgoers. To address this challenge, this study presents a novel approach for detecting rip currents in optical images using wavelet-based edge detection and image convolution techniques. Five identification criteria were established based on previous literature and expert observations. The proposed program incorporates image augmentation, averaging, and frame aggregation to enhance generalization and accuracy. Experimental analysis involving four iterations and four wavelet bases demonstrated that using two iterations with the Daubechies wavelet yielded the highest interpretation accuracy (88.3%). Performance evaluation using a confusion matrix further confirmed an accuracy rate of 83.0%. The results indicate that the proposed method identifies rip currents in images, offering a valuable tool for researchers studying rip current patterns. This approach lays the groundwork for future advancements in rip current detection and related research. Full article

River surfing has evolved from natural rivers to artificial standing waves, like the Fuchslochwelle in Nuremberg, where optimizing wave quality and safety remains a challenge. Key issues include recirculation zones that pose risks, particularly at higher inflows. This study addresses safety and performance improvements by introducing geometric modifications to reduce recirculation zones. Using STAR-CCM+ simulations, 16 configurations of baffles and inlays were analyzed. A 3D-CAD model of the Fuchslochwelle was developed to test symmetrical and asymmetrical configurations, focusing on reducing vorticity. Results showed that baffles placed 2 m from the inlay reduced recirculation zones by over 50%. Asymmetrical setups, combining wall and inlay baffles, also proved effective. Following simulations, a baffle was installed at 3 m, enhancing safety and quality. Previously, inflows above 7.5 m³/s caused dangerous backflow, requiring surfers to swim or dive to escape turbulence. With the baffle, safe operation increased to 9 m³/s, a 20% improvement, making the system suitable for surfers of all skill levels. These finding provide a novel approach to enhancing flow dynamics, applicable to a wide range of artificial standing waves. The valuable insights gained enable operators to optimize the dynamics and accessibility through geometric modifications while ensuring safety for users. Full article

A quantitative understanding of the migration of munitions and canonical objects in the nearshore is needed for the effective management of contaminated sites. Migrations of munitions with a density range of 2000 kg/m³ to 5720 kg/m³ were quantified in a large-scale wave flume. The forcing consisted of six cases of varying wave heights, periods, still water depths, and durations. The cross-shore profile, typical of natural sandy beaches, was sub-divided into swash, surf, and offshore zones. Overall, 2228 migration measurements were recorded with 16% and 84% of the migration observations classified as “motion” (net distance > 0.5 m) and “no motion” (net distance ≤ 0.5 m), respectively. The probability of munitions migration increased with proximity to the shoreline. There was a nearly equal probability of onshore or offshore migration in the swash zone. Migration in the surf zone tended to be offshore-directed (65%), while migration was onshore-dominant (65%) in the offshore zone. Migration in the offshore zone was preferentially onshore due to skewed waves over flat bathymetry. Less dense munitions in the offshore zone may have migrated offshore likely still related to the skewed nature of the wave profile causing transport in both directions through the majority of the wave phase. The largest migration distances occurred in the surf zone likely due to downslope gravity. Migration in the surf and swash zones is a balance between skewed/asymmetric forcing and downslope gravity, with downslope gravity tending to be pronounced provided the forcing is sufficient to initiate motion. An exception was sometimes observed in the swash zone where onshore forcing was sufficient to transport munitions to the seaward side of the berm where they became trapped in a bathymetric depression between the dune and berm. Relating overall migration (Lagrangian) to fixed hydrodynamic measurements (Eulerian) was ineffective. Parameters such as the Shields number, wave skewness, and wave asymmetry estimated from the closest measurement location were insufficient to predict migration. Large scatter in the migration data resulting from competing hydrodynamic, morphodynamic, and munitions response processes makes robust deterministic predictions with flow statistics and dimensionless numbers difficult. Full article

The paper investigates various methods of microfinishing and arrives at the best technique to produce a very smooth surface. Various setups, with and without oscillation, were developed, together with a microfinishing attachment used on conventional lathes and milling machines. The workpiece material used was an amorphous nickel–phosphorus Ni–P alloy. The surface roughness parameters, such as Sa, Sv, and Sp, were measured with the TalySurf CCI6000 instrument. For the measurement of the surface protrusions, an “analysis of islands” technique was used at various levels of cut-off. The 2BA method—machining below the workpiece axis with oscillation—turned out to be the most effective method applied because it had the highest density of protrusions while having the smallest value of surface roughness. Non-oscillation with the machining zone below the axis also becomes effective, indicating that repositioning can compensate for a lack of oscillation. Already, the very compact surface structure achieved with minimized depths in the valleys by the 2BA method supported the improvement in tribological performance and increase in load-carrying capacity, together with lubricant retention enhancement. These results show that the microfinishing process can be optimized by parameter tuning, and also, non-oscillating methods could come to be a practical alternative, probably reducing the complexity of equipment and cutting costs. Further studies need to be aimed at the scalability of these methods and their application to other materials and fields. Full article

Marine aerosol particles can act as cloud condensation nuclei and influence the atmospheric boundary layer by scattering solar radiation. The interaction of ocean waves and coral reefs may affect the distribution and size of marine aerosol particles. Measuring this effect has proven challenging. Here, we tested the hypothesis that the distribution and size of marine aerosol particles would vary over three distinct zones (i.e., coral lagoon, surf break, and open water) near One Tree Island in the Great Barrier Reef, which is approximately 85 km off the east coast of Australia. We used a modified DJI Agras T30 drone fitted with a miniaturised scanning electrical mobility sizer and advanced mixing condensation particle counter to collect data on aerosol size distribution between 30 and 300 nm at 20 m above the water surface. We conducted 30 flights over ten days during the Austral summer/autumn of 2023. The fitted bimodal lognormal curves indicate that the number concentrations for aerosols below 85 nm diameter are more than 16% higher over the lagoon than over open water. The average mean mode diameters remained constant across the different zones, indicating no significant influence of breaking waves on the detected aerosol size modes. The most influential explanatory variable for aerosol size distribution was the difference between air temperature and the underlying sea surface, explaining around 40% of the variability. Salinity also exhibited a significant influence, explaining around 12% of the measured variability in the number concentration of aerosols throughout the campaign. A calculated wind stress magnitude did not reveal significant variation in the measured marine aerosol concentrations. Overall, our drone-based aerosol measurements near the water surface effectively characterise the dynamics of background marine aerosols around One Tree Island Reef, illustrating the value of drone-based systems for providing size-dependent aerosol information in difficult-to-access and environmentally sensitive areas. Full article

In spectral wave models, the nonlinear triad source term accounts for the transfer of energy to the bound higher harmonics. This paper presents an extension to commonly used spectral models that resolves the evolution of the bound wave energy by keeping track of the energy that has been bound by the triad interactions. This extension is referred to as the bound wave evolution (BWE) model. From this, the spatial evolution of the bound wave height is obtained, which serves as a proxy for the nonlinear wave shape. The accuracy of these bound wave heights, and thus wave shape predictions, is highly dependent on the accuracy of the triad source term. Therefore, in this study, the capability of the LTA and SPB triad formulations to capture the growth of the bound wave height is evaluated. For both of these formulations, it is found that slope dependent calibration parameters are required. Overall, despite being computationally more expensive, the SPB method proves to be significantly more accurate in predicting the bound wave evolution. In the shoaling zone, where the bound wave energy is dominated by triads, the BWE model is well capable of predicting the nonlinear wave’s shape. In the surf zone, however, where a combination of triads and wave breaking control the spectral evolution, the BWE model over-predicts the bound wave height. Nevertheless, this paper shows the promising capabilities of spectral models to predict the nonlinear wave shape. Full article