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31 pages, 11568 KiB  
Review
The Chemistry of Behind the UV-Curable Nail Polishes
by Inese Mieriņa, Zane Grigale-Sorocina and Ingmars Birks
Polymers 2025, 17(9), 1166; https://doi.org/10.3390/polym17091166 - 25 Apr 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1706
Abstract
As far as history tells, people have set efforts both to improve the conditions and to change the visual outfit of the skin, nails, and hair. The first information on nail cosmetics is found in ancient China and Egypt, where various nature-derived compositions [...] Read more.
As far as history tells, people have set efforts both to improve the conditions and to change the visual outfit of the skin, nails, and hair. The first information on nail cosmetics is found in ancient China and Egypt, where various nature-derived compositions were used for changing the colour of the nails. Nowadays more mechanically and chemically durable systems for nail polishes are elaborated. This review focuses on the latest achievements in the field of UV-curable nail polishes. Herein, the polymerization mechanisms of various systems (acrylates, as well as epoxides and thiols) occurring in nail polishes are described. Besides plausible side reactions of the polymerization process are characterized. Thus, the main drawbacks for forming a uniform, perfect layer are illuminated. For effective curing, the choice of photoinitiators may be crucial; thus, various types of photoinitiators as well as their main advantages and disadvantages are characterized. Ensuring effective adhesion between the substrate (human nail) and the polymer film is one of the challenges for the nail polish industry—thus the plausible interactions between the adhesion promoters and the keratin are described. Regarding the film-forming agents, a comprehensive overview of the composition of the traditional UV-curing nail polishes is provided, but the main emphasis is devoted to alternative, nature-derived film-forming agents that could introduce renewable resources into nail cosmetics. Additionally, this review gives short insight into the latest innovations in UV-curing nail cosmetics, like (1) nail polishes with improved pealability, (2) covalently polymer-bonded dyes and photoinitiators, thus reducing the release of the low-molecular compounds or their degradation products, and (3) UV-curing nail polishes as delivery systems for nail treatment medicine. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Polymer Membranes and Films)
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11 pages, 1464 KiB  
Article
GC-MS Analysis with In Situ Derivatization for Managing Toxic Oxidative Hair Dye Ingredients in Hair Products
by Geon Park, Won-Young Cho, Jisu Park, Yujin Jeong, Jihwan Kim, Hyo Joon Park, Kyung Hyun Min and Wonwoong Lee
Chemosensors 2025, 13(3), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/chemosensors13030094 - 6 Mar 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1325
Abstract
Hair care products that have oxidative hair dye ingredients have been widely used to permanently change hair color for the characteristic and younger appearance of people and/or their companion animals. In the European Union and the Republic of Korea, these ingredients have been [...] Read more.
Hair care products that have oxidative hair dye ingredients have been widely used to permanently change hair color for the characteristic and younger appearance of people and/or their companion animals. In the European Union and the Republic of Korea, these ingredients have been carefully used or prohibited for cosmetic products according to their genotoxic potential. There is a growing demand for reliable quantification methods to monitor oxidative hair dye ingredients in hair care products. However, accurately quantifying oxidative dyes in cosmetic samples is challenging due to their high reactivity and chemical instability under both basic and ambient conditions. For this reason, for the quantification methods, elaborate sample preparation procedures should be accompanied by chemical derivatization to avoid chemical reactions between hair dye ingredients, before instrumental analysis. Therefore, this study utilized a gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS) method combined with in situ chemical derivatization to quantify 26 oxidative hair dye ingredients in hair care products. In situ derivatization using acetic anhydride provided the characteristic [M-CH2CO]+ ions at m/z (M-42), produced by the loss of a ketene from the hair dye ingredient derivatives. These characteristic ions can be used to establish a selective ion monitoring (SIM) mode of GC-MS. The established method was successfully applied to hair dye products (n = 13) and hair coloring shampoos (n = 12). Most products contained unintended hair dye ingredients including catechol without labeling. It was cautiously speculated that these unintended hair dye ingredients might be caused by biodegradation due to various enzymes in natural product extracts. This study presents a reliable GC-MS method with in situ derivatization to quantify 26 oxidative hair dye ingredients in hair care products, addressing challenges related to their chemical instability. This method is crucial for public health and regulatory compliance. Full article
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18 pages, 1922 KiB  
Article
Hair Dye and Relaxer Use among Cisgender Women in Embu and Nakuru Counties, Kenya: Associations with Perceived Risk of Breast Cancer and Other Health Effects
by Adana A. M. Llanos, Adiba Ashrafi, Teresa Olisa, Amber Rockson, Alexis Schaefer, Jasmine A. McDonald, Mary Beth Terry, Dede K. Teteh-Brooks, Dustin T. Duncan, Beatrice Irungu, Cecilia Kimani and Esther Matu
Int. J. Environ. Res. Public Health 2024, 21(7), 846; https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph21070846 - 28 Jun 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2255
Abstract
Despite widespread use of hair products globally, little is known about the prevalence and patterns of use in populations outside the United States. As some hair products contain endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) and EDCs have been linked to breast cancer, which is increasing globally, [...] Read more.
Despite widespread use of hair products globally, little is known about the prevalence and patterns of use in populations outside the United States. As some hair products contain endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) and EDCs have been linked to breast cancer, which is increasing globally, in this study, we addressed key knowledge gaps about hair product use and practices, and perceptions of use among women in two counties in Kenya. Using community-engaged approaches in Embu and Nakuru, Kenya, we recruited women aged 15–50 years to complete a questionnaire that ascertained hair product use in the last 7–14 days, ever using hair dyes and chemical relaxers, and participants’ perceptions or harm around hair product use. In multivariable-adjusted regression models, we evaluated associations between participants’ sociodemographic characteristics and perceptions of hair product use in relation to if they have ever used hair dyes and relaxers. In our sample of 746 women (mean age, 30.4 ± 8.1 years), approximately one-third of participants reported ever using permanent and/or semi-permanent hair dyes, with approximately one-fifth reporting current use. Almost 60% reported ever using chemical relaxers, with a little over one-third reporting current use. Increasing age and having an occupation in the sales and service industry were statistically significant predictors of hair dye use (OR 1.04, 95% CI: 1.02–1.06 and OR 2.05, 95% CI: 1.38–3.03, respectively) and relaxer use (OR 1.03, 95% CI: 1.01–1.06 and OR 1.93, 95% CI: 1.30–2.87). On average, participants reported moderate-to-high levels of concern about exposures and general health effects from using hair products, and relatively high levels of perceived risk of breast cancer related to hair product use. However, in contrast to our hypotheses, we observed mixed evidence regarding whether higher levels of perceived risk were associated with lower odds of ever using hair dyes and relaxers. These findings add new knowledge to the extant literature on hair product use among women in Kenya, where breast cancer incidence rates are increasing. Improving the understanding of patterns of use of specific products and their chemical ingredients—which may be hormone disruptors or carcinogens—and exploring the role of environmental health literacy are critical for developing interventions to reduce potentially harmful exposures found in these products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Women's Health, Pregnancy and Child Health)
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13 pages, 2802 KiB  
Article
Exploring the Use of Natural Ingredients for the Protection of Textured Hair from Ultraviolet Radiation: An In Vitro Study
by Ewa Markiewicz and Olusola C. Idowu
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 102; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030102 - 19 Jun 2024
Viewed by 3488
Abstract
Human hair is characterized by significant diversity, which is dictated by the individual genetic makeup. It is estimated that up to 70% of the world’s population has textured hair, with a significant proportion also living in areas with high exposure to ultraviolet radiation [...] Read more.
Human hair is characterized by significant diversity, which is dictated by the individual genetic makeup. It is estimated that up to 70% of the world’s population has textured hair, with a significant proportion also living in areas with high exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). This highlights the unique requirements for textured hair care products that can protect hair shafts from the harmful effects of the environment whilst enhancing the natural features of the fibre. In this study, we investigated the UV-protective effects of hair conditioner formulated from active ingredients, mangiferin, ferulic acid and naringin. The analysis of UV-irradiated straight and textured hair was performed by measurements of hair thickness and darkness, the uptake of the fluorescent dye, spectral absorbance of keratin extracts, ATR-FTIR and SEM. We found that textured hair was more sensitive to UVR-induced changes than straight hair, with the primary molecular targets represented by chemical groups in keratins. Pre-treatment of the hair with conditioner had protective effects against structural damage and oxidative stress caused by UVR. These data indicate the importance of the personalized approach to hair research and the formulation of hair care products tailored to the individual demands of textured hair types. Full article
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6 pages, 5228 KiB  
Review
Chemical Scalp Burn after Hair Coloring—Case Report with Literature Review
by Natalia Welc, Sandra Ważniewicz, Aleksandra Anioła, Paulina Ratajska, Małgorzata Wilawer, Magdalena Jałowska and Ryszard Żaba
J. Clin. Med. 2024, 13(12), 3542; https://doi.org/10.3390/jcm13123542 - 17 Jun 2024
Viewed by 4259
Abstract
Hair dyeing is widely performed around the world. Chemical and thermal burns can result from the components present in brightening and coloring products, as well as the application process. We present a case of a chemical burn after applying hair dye and review [...] Read more.
Hair dyeing is widely performed around the world. Chemical and thermal burns can result from the components present in brightening and coloring products, as well as the application process. We present a case of a chemical burn after applying hair dye and review the literature on similar cases, the composition of hair dyes, their mechanism of action, and the process of burns. The patient was a 17-year-old girl, who presented to the Dermatology Clinic with a 13 × 10 cm ulcer on the scalp after hair dyeing in a hairdressing salon. General and local treatment was applied, with particular emphasis on specialized dressings. The ulcer site was replaced by an area of scarring after 11 months of treatment. Based on the presented case and the review of the literature, we conclude that hair dye treatments warrant careful attention for potential scalp complications. The diagnostic and therapeutic approach demands a multidisciplinary effort, with ongoing patient–doctor cooperation throughout the treatment, which may complicate and span several months. Full article
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22 pages, 962 KiB  
Essay
Applying Stimulus–Organism–Response Theory to Explore the Effects of Augmented Reality on Consumer Purchase Intention for Teenage Fashion Hair Dyes
by Hsiu-Ping Yang, Wei-Shang Fan and Ming-Chun Tsai
Sustainability 2024, 16(6), 2537; https://doi.org/10.3390/su16062537 - 20 Mar 2024
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 5121
Abstract
The application of augmented reality (AR) in the beauty and hairdressing industry provides customers with a rich experience, especially in terms of virtual hair styling. Through virtual hair color tests, customers can quickly decide on the most suitable hair dye for them. Teenagers [...] Read more.
The application of augmented reality (AR) in the beauty and hairdressing industry provides customers with a rich experience, especially in terms of virtual hair styling. Through virtual hair color tests, customers can quickly decide on the most suitable hair dye for them. Teenagers use multimedia communication channels to distinctively express their enjoyment of and aesthetic experiences with the interactive, emotional, and spatial aspects of AR. They can also preview diverse hair dyes and hairstyles in a virtual environment and, ultimately, select the option that suits them the most. This study applied the Stimulus–Organism–Response (S–O–R) theoretical framework and collected 337 valid samples through a SmartPLS-4-supported questionnaire survey for analysis. The results revealed that spatiality significantly influenced behavioral intention in the context of aesthetic experiences, whereas interactivity significantly influenced behavioral intention in the context of entertainment experiences. Overall, the hair dye consumption behavior of Taiwanese teenagers was positively influenced by spatiality and interactivity, and the overall model was well structured. The findings of this study can serve as a reference for businesses to develop innovative technology products that enhance consumer marketing experiences and can contribute to the future development of the hair dye segment of the fashion industry. Full article
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48 pages, 3582 KiB  
Review
Mass-Spectrometry-Based Research of Cosmetic Ingredients
by Alina Florina Serb, Marius Georgescu, Robert Onulov, Cristina Ramona Novaconi, Eugen Sisu, Alexandru Bolocan and Raluca Elena Sandu
Molecules 2024, 29(6), 1336; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29061336 - 17 Mar 2024
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 6027
Abstract
Cosmetic products are chemical substances or mixtures used on the skin, hair, nails, teeth, and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, whose use is intended to clean, protect, correct body odor, perfume, keep in good condition, or change appearance. The analysis of [...] Read more.
Cosmetic products are chemical substances or mixtures used on the skin, hair, nails, teeth, and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, whose use is intended to clean, protect, correct body odor, perfume, keep in good condition, or change appearance. The analysis of cosmetic ingredients is often challenging because of their huge complexity and their adulteration. Among various analytical tools, mass spectrometry (MS) has been largely used for compound detection, ingredient screening, quality control, detection of product authenticity, and health risk evaluation. This work is focused on the MS applications in detecting and quantification of some common cosmetic ingredients, i.e., preservatives, dyes, heavy metals, allergens, and bioconjugates in various matrices (leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic products). As a global view, MS-based analysis of bioconjugates is a narrow field, and LC- and GC/GC×GC-MS are widely used for the investigation of preservatives, dyes, and fragrances, while inductively coupled plasma (ICP)-MS is ideal for comprehensive analysis of heavy metals. Ambient ionization approaches and advanced separation methods (i.e., convergence chromatography (UPC2)) coupled to MS have been proven to be an excellent choice for the analysis of scented allergens. At the same time, the current paper explores the challenges of MS-based analysis for cosmetic safety studies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Applied Chemistry in Europe)
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17 pages, 2144 KiB  
Article
Toxicity of Beauty Salon Effluents Contaminated with Hair Dye on Aquatic Organisms
by Letícia C. Gonçalves, Matheus M. Roberto, Paloma V. L. Peixoto, Cristina Viriato, Adriana F. C. da Silva, Valdenilson J. A. de Oliveira, Mariza C. C. Nardi, Lilian C. Pereira, Dejanira de F. de Angelis and Maria A. Marin-Morales
Toxics 2023, 11(11), 911; https://doi.org/10.3390/toxics11110911 - 7 Nov 2023
Viewed by 3305
Abstract
Cosmetic residues have been found in water resources, especially trace elements of precursors, couplers, and pigments of hair dyes, which are indiscriminately disposed of in the sewage system. These contaminants are persistent, bioactive, and bioaccumulative, and may pose risks to living beings. Thus, [...] Read more.
Cosmetic residues have been found in water resources, especially trace elements of precursors, couplers, and pigments of hair dyes, which are indiscriminately disposed of in the sewage system. These contaminants are persistent, bioactive, and bioaccumulative, and may pose risks to living beings. Thus, the present study assessed the ecotoxicity of two types of effluents generated in beauty salons after the hair dyeing process. The toxicity of effluent derived from capillary washing with water, shampoo, and conditioner (complete effluent—CE) and effluent not associated with these products (dye effluent—DE) was evaluated by tests carried out with the aquatic organisms Artemia salina, Daphnia similis, and Danio rerio. The bioindicators were exposed to pure samples and different dilutions of both effluents. The results showed toxicity in D. similis (CE50 of 3.43% and 0.54% for CE and DE, respectively); A. salina (LC50 8.327% and 3.874% for CE and DE, respectively); and D. rerio (LC50 of 4.25–4.59% and 7.33–8.18% for CE and DE, respectively). Given these results, we can infer that hair dyes, even at low concentrations, have a high toxic potential for aquatic biota, as they induced deleterious effects in all tested bioindicators. Full article
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27 pages, 2913 KiB  
Review
Safety Concern and Regulatory Status of Chemicals Used in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products
by Manthan Kaushik, Uzma Farooq, Mohd Shoab Ali, Mohammad Javed Ansari, Zeenat Iqbal and Mohd Aamir Mirza
Dermato 2023, 3(2), 131-157; https://doi.org/10.3390/dermato3020011 - 24 May 2023
Cited by 11 | Viewed by 16146
Abstract
Cosmetics and personal care products (PCPs) are a few of the most commonly used products across the globe with a whopping market share of approximately USD 500 billion. These products are used for cleansing purposes and for improving the quality and beauty of [...] Read more.
Cosmetics and personal care products (PCPs) are a few of the most commonly used products across the globe with a whopping market share of approximately USD 500 billion. These products are used for cleansing purposes and for improving the quality and beauty of the face, hair, and skin. There are many chemical substances involved in the manufacturing of cosmetics and PCPs. These chemical substances incorporated in cosmetics or PCPs are crucial to develop high-quality products with superior appearance, applicability, and stability; however, excessive use of such chemicals in cosmetics and PCPs has become a safety concern as many of these are reported to cause severe health complications. Overuse of cosmetics and PCPs with hazardous material should be minimized, especially by pregnant women and children. Gynecologists advise pregnant women not to use cosmetics and PCPs with hazardous chemicals. The implementation of a lawful framework is crucial to establish the safety of cosmetics and PCPs. Cosmetic companies/industries must be strictly regulated and made compliant to the guidelines in order to protect human health and minimize safety concerns. In this review, hazardous chemicals incorporated in the personal care products/cosmetics and their related risk and health complications have been discussed in detail. Additionally, regulatory status and clinical trials of chemical substances that involve toxicity and causing severe complications have also been discussed. Full article
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11 pages, 2325 KiB  
Article
Participation of Lattice Oxygen in Perovskite Oxide as a Highly Sensitive Sensor for p-Phenylenediamine Detection
by Juan He, Xiaomin Xu, Hainan Sun, Tengfei Miao, Meisheng Li, Shouyong Zhou and Wei Zhou
Molecules 2023, 28(3), 1122; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28031122 - 22 Jan 2023
Cited by 12 | Viewed by 2578
Abstract
The harmful effects on the human body from p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in hair dyes can cause allergies and even cancer. Therefore, it is particularly important to accurately control and detect the content of PPD in our daily products and environment. Here, a small amount [...] Read more.
The harmful effects on the human body from p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in hair dyes can cause allergies and even cancer. Therefore, it is particularly important to accurately control and detect the content of PPD in our daily products and environment. Here, a small amount of non-metallic elemental P doped in perovskite oxide of SrCoO3−δ (SC) forms a good catalytic material, SrCo0.95P0.05O3−δ (SCP), for PPD detection. The improved performance compared with that of the parent SC can be attributed to three contributing factors, including a larger amount of highly oxidative oxygen species O22−/O, better electrical conductivity, and more active sites on the P5+-oxygen bonds of SCP. Moreover, the lattice oxygen mechanism (LOM) with highly active species of lattice O vacancies and adsorbed –OO for electrocatalytic oxidation of PPD by the SCP/GCE (glass carbon electrode) sensor is proposed in our work. More importantly, the SCP/GCE sensor exhibits good stability, a low limit of detection, and high reliability (error < 5.78%) towards PPD determination in real samples of hair dyes, suggesting the substantial research potential for practical applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Green Chemistry)
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39 pages, 2425 KiB  
Review
Behind the Scenes of Anthocyanins—From the Health Benefits to Potential Applications in Food, Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Fields
by José S. Câmara, Monica Locatelli, Jorge A. M. Pereira, Hélder Oliveira, Marco Arlorio, Iva Fernandes, Rosa Perestrelo, Victor Freitas and Matteo Bordiga
Nutrients 2022, 14(23), 5133; https://doi.org/10.3390/nu14235133 - 2 Dec 2022
Cited by 66 | Viewed by 15600
Abstract
Anthocyanins are widespread and biologically active water-soluble phenolic pigments responsible for a wide range of vivid colours, from red (acidic conditions) to purplish blue (basic conditions), present in fruits, vegetables, and coloured grains. The pigments’ stability and colours are influenced mainly by pH [...] Read more.
Anthocyanins are widespread and biologically active water-soluble phenolic pigments responsible for a wide range of vivid colours, from red (acidic conditions) to purplish blue (basic conditions), present in fruits, vegetables, and coloured grains. The pigments’ stability and colours are influenced mainly by pH but also by structure, temperature, and light. The colour-stabilizing mechanisms of plants are determined by inter- and intramolecular co-pigmentation and metal complexation, driven by van der Waals, π–π stacking, hydrogen bonding, and metal-ligand interactions. This group of flavonoids is well-known to have potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, which explains the biological effects associated with them. Therefore, this review provides an overview of the role of anthocyanins as natural colorants, showing they are less harmful than conventional colorants, with several technological potential applications in different industrial fields, namely in the textile and food industries, as well as in the development of photosensitizers for dye-sensitized solar cells, as new photosensitizers in photodynamic therapy, pharmaceuticals, and in the cosmetic industry, mainly on the formulation of skin care formulations, sunscreen filters, nail colorants, skin & hair cleansing products, amongst others. In addition, we will unveil some of the latest studies about the health benefits of anthocyanins, mainly focusing on the protection against the most prevalent human diseases mediated by oxidative stress, namely cardiovascular and neurodegenerative diseases, cancer, and diabetes. The contribution of anthocyanins to visual health is also very relevant and will be briefly explored. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anthocyanins and Human Health)
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18 pages, 2242 KiB  
Article
Cultivation of Desmodesmus multivariabilis for the Treatment of Cosmetic Wastewater
by Faith M. Onyancha, Nils H. Haneklaus and Hendrik G. Brink
Sustainability 2022, 14(23), 15665; https://doi.org/10.3390/su142315665 - 24 Nov 2022
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2564
Abstract
The discharge of cosmetic wastewater into the wastewater treatment systems has become an environmental concern due to high concentrations of nutrients. The current study explored the phytoremediation potential of Desmodesmus multivariabilis, under mixotrophic growth, to remove total organic carbon (TOC), sulfur (TS), [...] Read more.
The discharge of cosmetic wastewater into the wastewater treatment systems has become an environmental concern due to high concentrations of nutrients. The current study explored the phytoremediation potential of Desmodesmus multivariabilis, under mixotrophic growth, to remove total organic carbon (TOC), sulfur (TS), nitrogen (TN), and phosphorus (TP) from cosmetic wastewater (CWW). The CWW was prepared using samples supplied by a local cosmetic production company (two dyes, two hair relaxers, as well as two shampoos and conditioners). The bioremediation potential of D. multivariabilis was tested under four different conditions: raw CWW with 0% CO2 in the aeration stream (i.e., atmospheric air); pre-treated CWW with 0% CO2, 2.5% CO2, and 5% CO2. Control experiments were run in parallel. Under mixotrophic growth, the microalga performed best at 5% CO2 in the pre-treated CWW where TOC, TN, TP, and TS removal of >88%, >98%, >95%, and >90% were measured, respectively. The corresponding biomass (dry weight) was >203 mg/L. Relaxers promoted growth most prominently; however, it was observed that there was significant nutrient removal even in the absence of growth in all experiments. The growth followed Liebig’s Law, displaying three distinct phases (CO2 concentration, CO2 mass transfer, and nutrient limited growth). The results demonstrated the potential for the successful bioremediation of cosmetic wastewater by D. multivariabilis. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cultivation of Microalgae and Sustainability)
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18 pages, 1811 KiB  
Review
Recent Advancements in Natural Plant Colorants Used for Hair Dye Applications: A Review
by Hongyan Cui, Wenjing Xie, Zhongjie Hua, Lihua Cao, Ziyi Xiong, Ying Tang and Zhiqin Yuan
Molecules 2022, 27(22), 8062; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27228062 - 20 Nov 2022
Cited by 29 | Viewed by 16995
Abstract
There is an on-going demand in recent years for safer and “greener” hair coloring agents with the global consumer awareness of the adverse effects of synthetic hair dyes. The belief in sustainability and health benefits has focused the attention of the scientific community [...] Read more.
There is an on-going demand in recent years for safer and “greener” hair coloring agents with the global consumer awareness of the adverse effects of synthetic hair dyes. The belief in sustainability and health benefits has focused the attention of the scientific community towards natural colorants that serve to replace their synthetic toxic counterparts. This review article encompasses the historical applications of a vast array of natural plant hair dyes and summarizes the possible coloration mechanisms (direct dyeing and mordant dyeing). Current information on phytochemicals (quinones, tannins, flavonoids, indigo, curcuminoids and carotenoids) used for hair dyeing are summarized, including their botanical sources, color chemistry and biological/toxicological activities. A particular focus is given on research into new natural hair dye sources along with eco-friendly, robust and cost-effective technologies for their processing and applications, such as the synthetic biology approach for colorant production, encapsulation techniques for stabilization and the development of inorganic nanocarriers. In addition, innovative in vitro approaches for the toxicological assessments of natural hair dye cosmetics are highlighted. Full article
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10 pages, 2215 KiB  
Article
Improving the Mechanical Properties of Damaged Hair Using Low-Molecular Weight Hyaluronate
by Wenjie Qu, Xueping Guo, Guixin Xu, Songyan Zou, Yuwen Wu, Chenyu Hu, Kuan Chang and Jing Wang
Molecules 2022, 27(22), 7701; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27227701 - 9 Nov 2022
Cited by 9 | Viewed by 8282
Abstract
Chemical treatments of hair such as dyeing, perming and bleaching could cause mechanical damage to the hair, which weakens the hair fibers and makes the hair break more easily. In this work, hyaluronate (HA) with different molecular weight (MW) was investigated for its [...] Read more.
Chemical treatments of hair such as dyeing, perming and bleaching could cause mechanical damage to the hair, which weakens the hair fibers and makes the hair break more easily. In this work, hyaluronate (HA) with different molecular weight (MW) was investigated for its effects on restoring the mechanical properties of damaged hair. It was found that low-MW HA (average MW~42 k) could significantly improve the mechanical properties, specifically the elastic modulus, of overbleached hair. The fluorescent-labeling experiments verified that the low-MW HA was able to penetrate into the cortex of the hair fiber, while high-MW HA was hindered. Fourier transform infrared spectrometry (FT-IR) results implied the formation of additional intermolecular hydrogen bonds in the HA-treated hair. Thermos gravimetric analysis (TGA) indicated that the HA-treated hair exhibited decreased content of loosely bonded water, and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) characterizations suggested stronger water bonding inside the HA-treated hair, which could alleviate the weakening effect of loosely bonded water on the hydrogen bond networks within keratin. Therefore, the improved elastic modulus and mechanical strength of the HA-treated hair could be attributed to the enhanced formation of hydrogen bond networks within keratin. This study illustrates the capability of low-MW HA in hair damage repair, implying an enormous potential for other moisturizers to be used in hair care products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)
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26 pages, 2125 KiB  
Review
Safety Assessment of Nanomaterials in Cosmetics: Focus on Dermal and Hair Dyes Products
by Sara Cabanas Coimbra, Inês Sousa-Oliveira, Inês Ferreira-Faria, Diana Peixoto, Miguel Pereira-Silva, Ankita Mathur, Kiran D. Pawar, Faisal Raza, Priscila Gava Mazzola, Filipa Mascarenhas-Melo, Francisco Veiga and Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos
Cosmetics 2022, 9(4), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9040083 - 8 Aug 2022
Cited by 9 | Viewed by 9186
Abstract
Nanomaterials use in cosmetics is markedly enhancing, so their exposure and toxicity are important parameters to consider for their risk assessment. This review article provides an overview of the active cosmetic ingredients used for cosmetic application, including dermal cosmetics and also hair dye [...] Read more.
Nanomaterials use in cosmetics is markedly enhancing, so their exposure and toxicity are important parameters to consider for their risk assessment. This review article provides an overview of the active cosmetic ingredients used for cosmetic application, including dermal cosmetics and also hair dye cosmetics, as well as their safety assessment, enriched with a compilation of the safety assessment tests available to evaluate the different types of toxicity. In fact, despite the increase in research and the number of papers published in the field of nanotechnology, the related safety assessment is still insufficient. To elucidate the possible effects that nanosized particles can have on living systems, more studies reproducing similar conditions to what happens in vivo should be conducted, particularly considering the complex interactions of the biological systems and active cosmetic ingredients to achieve newer, safer, and more efficient nanomaterials. Toward this end, ecological issues and the toxicological pattern should also be a study target. Full article
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