Innovative Plant-Dyed Silk Textiles: Does Intangible Cultural Heritage Matter? A Trajectory Equifinality Model
Abstract
1. Introduction
Research Questions
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. TEM Design
2.2. TEM Setting
2.3. TEM Participants
2.4. TEM In-Depth Interview Questions
2.5. TEM Analyses
2.6. TEM Triangulation
3. Findings
3.1. Development of Initial Coding, Thematic Grouping, and Emerging Theory
3.2. Code Saturation and Theme Development
3.3. Findings for RQ1
“We grow mulberry in our backyard. It is not only for silk but also part of our way of life—our grandmothers taught us everything.”
“The soil here makes the mulberry sweet and strong. That is why our silk differs from that of other provinces.”
“Silkworms are like family. They must be cared for every day, like children. If they are fed incorrectly, the silk is ruined.”
“Our silk begins with the land. If we do not care for the land, we cannot grow mulberry. It is all connected.”
“Sericulture is not only for money. It teaches patience, care, and respect for nature.”
“We raise silkworms in the house our grandparents built. It is more than a job—it is part of who we are.”
“The rearing house must be clean and quiet. Silkworms are sensitive like babies; they feel everything.”
“I modified our old wooden house by adding mesh to control insects. It keeps the worms healthy and produces better silk.”
“The new silkworm house from the university project helped us reduce waste and improve cocoons.”
“The boiling of cocoons must be done carefully—if the temperature is wrong, the thread will break. This is a skill you cannot learn only by watching; you have to feel it.”
“Now we use a small reeling machine that saves time. But we still check the quality of every skein by hand.”
“Before, we sold raw cocoons to middlemen. Now, with training from the local university, we process and dye the silk ourselves.”
“Cocoon processing is more than work. It connects us to our ancestors and keeps our traditions alive.”
“We started adding natural dyeing immediately after the reeling process. It brings more value and allows us to create our own brand.”
3.4. Findings for RQ2
“We have raised mulberry silkworms for generations. The thread is soft and absorbs indigo dye beautifully—it is our signature.”
“Eri silk is peaceful—no killing of the worm. Many foreign buyers value it as cruelty-free and natural.”
“Tussar silk is harder to find here, but its golden colour is special. When dyed with sappanwood, it produces a deep, earthy red.”
“Muga silk is rare in Thailand, but I imported it from Assam. Its natural golden hue changes when dyed, creating a unique tone.”
“We boil sappanwood chips for a long time. If we add rusty nails or old iron tools, the red becomes deeper—almost like blood. We call it sii dang kao.”
“Indigo gives blue, but when mixed with mangosteen peel or old teak leaves, it turns into a rich violet. The older the leaves, the deeper the purple.”
“When we use jackfruit wood, it gives a golden colour. If we leave it longer or add tamarind bark, it turns orange—like the monk’s robes.”
“Before we start, we wash the raw silk thoroughly in hot water with mild soap to remove impurities and sericin.”
“We soak the silk in a mordant bath, usually alum, to ensure the colour bonds well with the fibres.”
“The plant materials are boiled until the colour leaches into the water, creating a rich dye bath.”
“We immerse the silk in the dye bath and stir it gently to ensure the colour is absorbed evenly.”
“After dyeing, the silk is rinsed in clean water and hung in the shade to dry naturally.”
3.5. Findings for RQ3
“Indigo is our identity. My grandmother taught me to ferment the dye with lime and rice wine. Today, we use the same method but measure the pH to make the colour last longer.”
“We used to throw away jackfruit branches, but now we boil them for golden dye. It is amazing that something so simple from our garden has become part of our product line.”
“Sappanwood gives a strong red. In the past, it was used for monks’ robes. We still use it, but now combine it with iron water to produce deep purples for modern fashion.”
“My mother said mangosteen peel makes a good dye when mixed with alum. We never thought it could become part of eco-fashion—now foreigners want scarves made in this colour.”
“Pomegranate was once just fruit. Now we dry the peels and use them to dye silk in light browns and yellows. It is natural, organic, and connects us to older ways.”
“We organise dyeing workshops every year so the younger villagers can learn the traditional way—using local leaves, roots, and bark for dye.”
“My mother taught me to recognise which plants give red, yellow, or brown colours. I am now teaching my daughter in the same way.”
“We do not write it down—it is kept alive through watching, doing, and repeating.”
“When children join the dyeing, they learn more than colour—they learn our way of life.”
“We used to dry leaves only in the sun, but now we use a hot-air dryer to control moisture and prevent mould.”
“The microwave extractor makes the colour release faster and stronger, especially from hardwoods such as sappanwood.”
“We soak the silk longer in low-temperature baths. It helps the dye bond better and makes the colour last longer.”
“After dyeing, the silk is rinsed with natural soap and vinegar to help set the colour of the natural dyes.”
“Before selling, we check whether the silk fades in the sun or when washed. Now we use a checklist.”
“We no longer use only one colour per batch. Now we dip the silk in different natural dyes—blue first, then yellow—to create new tones such as green or olive that were not in the old patterns.”
“Young designers helped us adjust our motifs. The traditional diamond shape remains, but it is smaller and fits better on scarves or modern blouses.”
“A Bangkok fashion brand collaborated with our weavers. They used our hand-dyed silk for jackets on the runway. It is still our heritage, only in a new form.”
“Before, we only knew how to use indigo. After the workshop, we can now extract dye from eucalyptus and jackfruit wood as well. It gives us more options for customers.”
“Knowledge is exchanged across generations: traditional methods of identifying dye plants, such as Indigofera tinctoria, are passed down, while digital skills—such as marketing through social media—are shared in return.”
3.6. Findings for RQ4
“To make the brocade shine, we pick the threads one by one with our fingers. It takes time, but the design comes alive.”
“Setting up the reed is the most important step. If a mistake is made there, the whole cloth becomes crooked.”
“We mix indigo and sappan-dyed threads to create a soft purple. It depends on how the colours interact in the light.”
“After weaving, we steam the cloth over herbal water. It softens the silk and enhances the natural colour.”
“I do not use a pattern book. I remember it from my mother—each row is already in my head.”
“This loom belonged to my grandmother. It is made from local teak and still works better than the new ones.”
“The diamond shape is strong and balanced—our grandmothers believed it brings stability to the family.”
“This khid design is unique to our village. It is our identity. When people see it, they know it is from here.”
“The lotus is a sacred flower. We weave it to honour the temple and remind ourselves to live with a pure heart.”
“This cocoon pattern represents the life of the silkworm. It reminds us that from small things, beauty can grow.”
“We still use patterns my grandmother taught me, but I now combine them with modern geometric shapes. Younger customers prefer a simpler style.”
“Before, the colour faded quickly. With new boiling and filtering techniques, we achieve stronger shades that last longer, even after washing.”
“We no longer use chemical dye fixers. Everything now comes from the garden—alum, tamarind bark, even banana stems. It is safer for us and the river.”
“My daughter taught me how to post on Facebook. Now I can sell scarves to people in Bangkok without leaving the village.”
“We created a logo for our weaving group to show this is genuine Isan silk, made with natural dye. It helps build trust with customers.”
“When we go to the temple, we wear our best silk—not to show off, but to show respect to the Buddha and our ancestors.”
“I wove my daughter’s wedding skirt myself, using indigo and sappan dyes. It is our tradition. The patterns express who we are and where we come from.”
“Every year at the Bun Bang Fai Festival, we wear our village’s colours and designs. People can tell where you are from simply by your textile.”
“The naga in our cloth protects the family. It is not just decoration—it is our belief.”
“For my father’s funeral, we wrapped his body in silk dyed with tamarind bark. He said he wanted to go in peace, in something from the land.”
“We wear our silk when we go to the temple or during Songkran. It is not just clothing; it shows who we are.”
“We started a weaving group of fifteen women. With the profits, we built a small dyeing centre and trained the next generation.”
“We now sell to tourists and international markets. Our silk has moved from local to global, but it still holds our roots.”
4. Discussion
4.1. Discussion of Findings
4.2. Practical Implications
4.3. Theoretical Contributions
4.4. Policy Initiatives
4.5. Potential Limitations
4.6. Future Research Paths
5. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Conflicts of Interest
Appendix A
Material Type | Traditional Practice | Innovative Practice | Process Description |
---|---|---|---|
Silk preparation | Local mulberry silk (Bombyx mori) was hand-reeled and degummed, with raw silk manually boiled to remove sericin. | Pre-treated eco-silk, including mechanically reeled, softened, or bleached fibre, was employed in innovative practice. Degumming was carried out industrially or with enzyme treatment. | Both methods were shown to be designed to produce clean silk fibre for optimal dye penetration, while fabric softness and dye absorption were enhanced through innovative techniques. |
Dye plant collection | Fresh, seasonal dye plants such as Indigofera tinctoria, jackfruit wood, and mangosteen rind were collected from local forests or household gardens. | Powdered dye concentrates or standardised plant-extract kits were sourced for innovative practice, while some raw materials were grown in dye gardens or cultivated organically. | The traditional method was shown to depend on ecological cycles and local knowledge, whereas innovations were introduced to increase consistency and ensure year-round availability. |
Silk fabric base | Locally handwoven silk, such as hand-reeled mulberry silk, was employed in traditional textile production. | Pre-treated, machine-reeled silk—such as eco-silk and soft-finish silk—was employed in innovative textile production. | Silk was harvested, degummed through boiling, and prepared for dyeing, while in innovative practice it was sometimes pre-scoured or chemically softened to enhance dye uptake. |
Dye source (plant) | Raw plant materials such as whole leaves, bark, and roots from local sources, including Indigofera tinctoria and jackfruit wood, were employed in traditional dyeing practice. | Concentrated plant extracts or powdered natural dye kits were utilised in innovative dyeing practice. | Traditional dye sources were chopped and soaked or boiled, while innovative methods were introduced through enzyme- or ultrasound-assisted extraction to increase pigment yield and reduce waste. |
Mordanting | Natural mordants such as alum, tamarind paste, or wood ash were employed in traditional dyeing practice. | Bio-based or synthetic eco-mordants—such as biodegradable tannins and metal-free mordants—were employed in innovative dyeing practice. | Mordants were used to fix dye to silk. Traditional methods were based on soaking in natural astringents, whereas innovative methods employed standardised, low-toxicity fixatives to secure consistent colourfastness. |
Dye extraction method | Plant material was boiled in open pots with firewood, and extraction was carried out over long durations of two to four hours. | Enzyme-assisted, ultrasonic, or pressure-assisted extraction methods were employed to achieve shorter processing times. | Traditional methods were based on boiling plant material in large vats, while innovations were introduced through controlled heating and pH adjustments to improve pigment stability. |
Dyeing method | Textiles were immersed in the dye bath, with repeated soaking undertaken to achieve depth of colour. | Layered dyeing techniques, controlled-temperature dyeing, resist methods, and digital pattern design were employed in innovative textile production. | Traditional immersion was associated with deep saturation but limited scope for patterning, while innovations were introduced through resist techniques such as tie-dye and clamp-dye, digital motif mapping, and precise layering of multiple dyes. |
Fixing and drying | Textiles were sun-dried after dyeing, and fixatives were applied post-dye. | Controlled drying with UV protection and post-dye coating with eco-fixative sprays were employed in innovative finishing processes. | Traditional sun-drying was associated with uneven colouration, while modern methods were introduced through drying chambers and aftercare treatments to secure colourfastness. |
Post-dye treatment | Textiles were sometimes treated with rice starch to add stiffness or re-dyed to deepen colour, and each piece was manually inspected. | Natural fixatives or post-treatment sprays were applied to improve durability, enhance sheen, and support eco-certification. | Post-processing was employed to preserve dye and fabric quality, while in modern finishing attention was also directed to softness, washability, and export compliance. |
Weaving and finishing | Traditional wooden looms were employed, with patterns committed to memory and executed manually. | CAD-assisted loom design and the integration of dye patterns into weave planning were employed in innovative textile production. | Traditional looms were shown to require skilled, memory-based pattern creation, while innovations were enabled through digital pattern simulation, which allowed complex colour–weave integration. |
Design motifs | Examples of region-specific symbols were given as the naga, the diamond, and the lotus. | Fusion motifs blending traditional symbols with contemporary design were employed in innovative textile production. | Traditional motifs were recognised as carrying cultural significance, while new designs were adapted from these forms for modern fashion and export markets, often in collaboration with designers. |
Appendix B
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ID | Age Group | Weaving Experience (Years) | Indigofera Tinctoria Used | Role in Community | Heritage Transmission Mode | TEM Mapping (SP/BFP/OPP/EP) |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
W1 | 35–44 | 12 | Mangifera indica | Pattern innovator | Learned from mother | SP → BFP (introducing modern motifs) |
W2 | 45–54 | 20 | Caesalpinia sappan | Co-op committee | Learned from grandmother | SP → OPP (heritage quality certification) |
W3 | 55–64 | 35 | Garcinia mangostana | Master weaver | Temple-based apprenticeship | SP → EP (full traditional preservation) |
W4 | 65+ | 48 | Punica granatum | Cultural mentor | Learned in childhood | SP → BFP (tourist market adaptation) |
W5 | 35–44 | 15 | Caesalpinia sappan | Independent seller | Learned via village training | SP → OPP (new market entry) |
W6 | 45–54 | 23 | Butea monosperma | Design leader | Learned from aunt | SP → BFP (pattern diversification) |
W7 | 55–64 | 31 | Terminalia chebula | Dyeing instructor | Learned from parents | SP → OPP (training workshops) |
W8 | 65+ | 46 | Curcuma longa | Heritage keeper | Learned from elders | SP → EP (pure traditional path) |
W9 | 45–54 | 19 | Mangifera indica | Market liaison | Learned in cooperative | SP → BFP (urban retail connection) |
W10 | 35–44 | 14 | Punica granatum | Dye experimenter | Learned from mother | SP → BFP (colour fastness trials) |
W11 | 55–64 | 33 | Garcinia mangostana | Senior artisan | Learned from grandmother | SP → OPP (national competition entry) |
W12 | 45–54 | 21 | Mahogany bark | Training mentor | Learned via co-op training | SP → BFP (export market readiness) |
W13 | 35–44 | 10 | Tamarind leaf | Young innovator | Learned from elders + online | SP → BFP (digital marketing adoption) |
W14 | 65+ | 40 | Indigofera tinctoria | Village elder | Learned in childhood | SP → EP (heritage continuity) |
W15 | 45–54 | 18 | Coconut husk | Dye process leader | Learned from peers | SP → OPP (supply chain adaptation) |
Main Concepts | Probing Questions |
---|---|
Introduction | The researchers provided a welcome note, explained interview guidelines, and outlined the purposes of the interview. |
General questions | Could you describe your background in innovating natural silk production? |
Natural sericulture production | What importance does the sericulture plant hold in silk production? |
What types of silkworm-rearing houses are used in silk production? | |
What is the standard procedure for operating a cocoon-processing unit? | |
Plant-dyed natural silk | In what ways does the composition of natural silk affect the uptake of natural dyes? |
What methods are used to apply and fix plant-based dyes on natural fibres? | |
How are traditional and modern dyeing processes used to create plant-dyed natural silk? | |
Innovation of natural dyeing | How does the revival of natural dyeing practices drive innovation in silk textiles? |
How does the adoption of eco-friendly production methods demonstrate innovation in silk textile design and processing? | |
What modern natural dye extraction techniques foster innovation in silk textile design? | |
In what ways do innovative dyeing methods foster advancements in silk textile production? | |
Intangible cultural heritage | Could you describe your background in innovating natural silk production? |
What traditional weaving methods and skills contribute to the preservation of intangible cultural heritage? | |
What symbols and motifs are embodied in the intangible cultural heritage of traditional weaving? | |
What role do adaptations and innovations play in preserving intangible cultural heritage? | |
What cultural and ritual roles do intangible cultural heritage practices serve? | |
How does intangible cultural heritage contribute to local identity and the economy? |
Theme | Category | Coding | Meaning/Interpretation |
---|---|---|---|
Natural sericulture production | Sericulture plant | Participants stated that natural sericulture plays a central role in silk textile production.
| Natural sericulture production was shown to integrate mulberry cultivation, irrigation, nurseries, composting, and storage to sustain plant-dyed silk textiles as a living form of intangible cultural heritage. |
Silkworm rearing house | Participants stated that natural sericulture production is associated with the silkworm-rearing house in silk textile production.
| Silkworm-rearing houses were shown to employ trays, controlled environments, disinfection rooms, and mountages to transform raw cultivation into viable silk that embodied cultural heritage. | |
Cocoon processing unit | Participants stated that natural sericulture production is associated with the cocoon-processing unit in silk textile production.
| Cocoon processing units were shown to apply drying, grading, and storage to secure silk quality and preserve its role as cultural heritage. | |
Plant-dyed natural silk | Natural silk base | Participants stated that plant-dyed natural silk is associated with the natural silk base used in textile production.
| Plant-dyed textiles were shown to draw on mulberry, eri, tussar, and muga silks to anchor material diversity within the framework of intangible cultural heritage. |
Plant-based dyes | Participants revealed that plant-dyed natural silk incorporates gradient colour palettes in textile production.
| Plant-based dyes were shown to infuse natural silk with burgundy, violet, and rust-orange tones, creating gradient palettes that embodied intangible cultural heritage. | |
Dyeing process | Participants stated that plant-dyed natural silk is associated with the dyeing process used in silk textile production.
| The dyeing process was shown to scour, mordant, extract, apply, and rinse plant dyes on silk to secure chromatic depth and sustain intangible cultural heritage. | |
Innovation of natural dyeing | Revival natural dyeing practice | Participants identified the use of local plant materials to revive natural dyeing practices in silk textile production.
| The revival of natural dyeing was shown to innovate with indigo, jackfruit wood, sappanwood, mangosteen rind, and pomegranate peel to renew colour traditions and reinforce intangible cultural heritage. |
Eco-friendly textile production | Participants stated that eco-friendly textile production promotes the production of natural silk textiles.
| Eco-friendly textile production was shown to advance through dyeing skill training and intergenerational learning to foster sustainable practice and strengthen intangible cultural heritage. | |
Modern extraction techniques | Participants categorised innovations in natural dyeing as the development of modern extraction techniques in silk textiles.
| Modern extraction techniques were shown to apply drying, grinding, extraction, dyeing, post-dye treatment, and finishing to enhance silk quality and reinforce intangible cultural heritage. | |
Innovative dyeing practice | Participants reported that innovative dyeing practices facilitate the integration of traditional weaving in silk textiles.
| Innovative dyeing practices were shown to employ colour layering, modern design patterns, fashion collaboration, skill training, and intergenerational learning to expand creative expression and sustain intangible cultural heritage. | |
Intangible cultural heritage | Weaving techniques and skills | Participants stated that weaving techniques and skills ground intangible cultural heritage in natural silk textiles.
| Weaving traditions were shown to employ twining, brocade, reed and heddle setup, colour blending, finishing, pattern memorisation, and wooden looms to transmit technical skill and preserve intangible cultural heritage. |
Design motifs and symbolism | Participants reiterated that intangible cultural heritage is associated with the design motifs and symbolism embedded in natural silk textiles.
| Design traditions were shown to employ diamond, khid, lotus, and cocoon motifs to encode symbolism that sustains intangible cultural heritage. | |
Adaptation and innovation | Participants outlined how intangible cultural heritage is embedded in processes of adaptation and innovation in natural silk textiles.
| Heritage adaptation was shown to advance through natural dye enhancement, eco-conscious practices, digital marketing, and community branding to secure cultural relevance and sustain intangible cultural heritage. | |
Cultural and ritual significance | Participants narrated the cultural and ritual significance of intangible cultural heritage in natural silk textiles.
| Textile traditions were shown to embody ceremonial dress, wedding attire, festival display, sacred motifs, and funerary use, thereby affirming cultural identity and preserving intangible cultural heritage. | |
Local identity and regional economy | Participants discussed the relationship between intangible cultural heritage, cultural identity, and the economic life of the local area.
| Plant-dyed silk was shown to be integrated into local dress, to empower women, and to drive cultural industries that reinforce regional economies and sustain intangible cultural heritage. |
Code-Saturation Theme | W1 | W2 | W3 | W4 | W5 | W6 | W7 | W8 | W9 | W10 | W11 | W12 | W13 | W14 | W15 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Theme one | ||||||||||||||||
A1. Sericulture plant | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | |
A2. Silkworm rearing house | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | * | * | * | |
A3. Cocoon processing unit | – | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | |
Theme two | ||||||||||||||||
B1. Natural silk base | * | – | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | |
B2. Plant-based dyes | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | * | * | * | |
B3. Dyeing process | – | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | |
Theme three | ||||||||||||||||
C1. Revival natural dyeing practice | * | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | ||
C2. Eco-friendly textile production | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | * | * | |
C3. Modern extraction techniques | * | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | |
C4. Innovative dyeing practice | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | – | * | * | |
Theme four | ||||||||||||||||
D1. Weaving techniques and skills | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | |
D2. Design motifs and symbolism | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | |
D3. Adaptation and innovation | * | – | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | |
D4. Cultural and ritual significance | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | – | * | * | * | * | * |
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© 2025 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
Share and Cite
Phukrongpet, P.; Daovisan, H. Innovative Plant-Dyed Silk Textiles: Does Intangible Cultural Heritage Matter? A Trajectory Equifinality Model. Heritage 2025, 8, 360. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8090360
Phukrongpet P, Daovisan H. Innovative Plant-Dyed Silk Textiles: Does Intangible Cultural Heritage Matter? A Trajectory Equifinality Model. Heritage. 2025; 8(9):360. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8090360
Chicago/Turabian StylePhukrongpet, Pimporn, and Hanvedes Daovisan. 2025. "Innovative Plant-Dyed Silk Textiles: Does Intangible Cultural Heritage Matter? A Trajectory Equifinality Model" Heritage 8, no. 9: 360. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8090360
APA StylePhukrongpet, P., & Daovisan, H. (2025). Innovative Plant-Dyed Silk Textiles: Does Intangible Cultural Heritage Matter? A Trajectory Equifinality Model. Heritage, 8(9), 360. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8090360