Sustainable Fashion in China: Consumers’ Second-Hand Clothing Intentions and Market Evolution

Abstract

As global attention on environmental sustainability grows, the fashion industry is shifting towards circular models, with the second-hand clothing market emerging as a key pathway to sustainable development. In China, this market is rapidly evolving, with millennials and Generation Z showing strong interest in environmentally friendly and personalized fashion. This study investigates Chinese consumers’ motivations and barriers to purchasing second-hand clothing and examines the diversity of China’s sustainable fashion ecosystem. Using a mixed-methods approach of semi-structured interviews and surveys, the findings reveal that environmental awareness, economic affordability, and social influence drive purchase intentions, while hygiene concerns, societal perceptions, and trust in platforms act as barriers. The study also compares the roles of online platforms, offline vintage stores, and upcycling fashion brands, highlighting their complementarity across economic, cultural, and social dimensions. Online platforms offer efficiency and convenience, vintage stores build brand loyalty through cultural narratives, and upcycling brands merge creativity with sustainability. It also reflects on the cultural context shaping second-hand fashion adoption in China. The study suggests enhancing trust in platforms, promoting education, and leveraging social media campaigns to support future market development.

1. Introduction

The fashion industry is experiencing a deep transformation as sustainability concerns propel the necessity to transition to circular economy practices. The traditional linear pattern of consumption, characterized by rapid production and disposal, has resulted in textile waste, pollution, and resource depletion [1]. Amid this transition, the second-hand fashion market has emerged as a key strategy for sustainable fashion, offering a substitute for fast fashion by prolonging the lifespan of clothing, reducing textile waste, and mitigating environmental degradation [2]. By reintegrating pre-owned clothing into the consumption cycle, resale markets contribute to reducing overproduction and lowering carbon emissions associated with new garment manufacturing [3]. In global markets, the second-hand fashion sector has expanded rapidly in recent years. Recent academic studies on the global second-hand clothing trade report strong growth in the value of resale markets [4,5]. Industry forecasts indicate that the global second-hand apparel market has already become a multi-billion-dollar industry and is expected to continue expanding over the coming years [6].

As the world’s largest clothing market, China faces unique challenges and opportunities in its transition to sustainable fashion. The country generates nearly 20 million tons of textile waste annually, contributing to a substantial portion of global material waste [7]. Historically, second-hand clothing (SHC) has been associated with hygiene concerns and social stigma, which has hindered its widespread adoption [8]. However, policy-driven sustainability initiatives, such as China’s goal to peak carbon emissions by 2030 and reach carbon neutrality by 2060 [9], alongside consumers’ increasing awareness of environmental and social issues, are driving demand for alternative fashion consumption models that align with sustainability values [10]. Research indicates that with Millennials and Generation Z emerging as dominant consumer groups, the landscape is shifting. Despite being in its early stages, China’s second-hand fashion sector holds strong expansion prospects. Yet recent research indicates that rising environmental concern, the increasing normalization of second-hand purchasing, and the rapid growth of online resale platforms are creating considerable scope for the further expansion of second-hand fashion in China [11]. In practice, these dynamics are especially evident in major Chinese cities, where second-hand fashion is becoming more visible through the growth of online resale platforms, the spread of vintage boutiques and markets, and the wider diffusion of sustainability-oriented consumer cultures [12]. Together with the emergence of upcycling brands, these developments point to a gradual diversification of resale-based business models and a growing acceptance of second-hand fashion among urban Chinese consumers.

While previous research has extensively examined Western second-hand fashion markets, focusing on consumer motivations such as economic factors, product quality, affordability, and sustainability considerations, studies on Chinese consumers, particularly younger generations, remain limited. The specific drivers and barriers that influence second-hand fashion adoption in China, as well as how these forces interact to shape consumer intentions, have yet to be fully examined. Moreover, limited research has considered the role of emerging business models in facilitating the acceptance of resale fashion among younger consumers. Addressing this gap is essential to understanding how evolving cultural values, sustainability awareness, and digital consumption habits are reshaping fashion consumption in China. Building on this context, the study focuses on emerging generations, particularly Millennials and Generation Z, as they represent a key consumer demographic driving the transition toward sustainable fashion. While Millennials are commonly defined as those born from the early 1980s to around 2000 [13], this study expands the scope to include both Millennials and Generation Z to capture their influence on second-hand fashion consumption. By adopting this broader perspective, the research examines the primary factors influencing younger consumers’ willingness to purchase SHC and explores the barriers that limit its widespread adoption.

Guided by these aims, this study addresses the following research questions:

• RQ1. What are the main motivations and barriers shaping Millennials’ and Generation Z’s willingness to purchase second-hand fashion in China?
• RQ2. How do these drivers and barriers interact to influence young consumers’ attitudes and behavioural intentions toward second-hand fashion?
• RQ3. How do different business models, such as online platforms, vintage stores, and upcycling brands, shape consumer perceptions and contribute to the broader transition toward sustainable fashion in China?

By examining these questions, this study aims to advance understanding of the behavioural and cultural dynamics underpinning sustainable fashion consumption in China and to provide empirical insights that can inform policy, education, and industry strategies promoting circularity within the fashion sector.

2. Literature Review

Second-hand products are commonly defined as reusable consumer goods that circulate through consumer exchange networks, with individuals alternating between the roles of buyer and seller [14]. Within this broader re-commercialisation system, SHC specifically refers to second-hand garments that have been redistributed and continue to be utilized beyond their initial ownership, thereby extending the effective product lifespan. From a product perspective, SHC differs markedly from new clothing. Pre-owned garments often display visible signs of prior use, such as wear, fading or residual odour, which introduce non-standardization and heighten uncertainty regarding quality and hygiene [15]. Beyond these material attributes, research suggests that consumers may be attracted to second-hand items because of their uniqueness, scarcity and biographical or historical provenance, which confer special and sometimes nostalgic value [16]. At the same time, SHC consumption is closely linked to sustainability benefits, as extending the life of garments helps to reduce textile waste, lower resource use and mitigate the environmental impacts of new clothing production [17]. Recent studies on fast-fashion consumption indicate that consumers’ ethical concerns, personal moral values and growing environmental awareness can also shape their purchase intentions towards fashion products [18]. Taken together, these studies suggest that SHC is a complex form of consumption that brings together different value perceptions, risk judgements, and ethical and environmental considerations from both consumer and market perspectives.

Building on these characteristics, this study uses behavioural and social-psychological theories to structure the analysis of how consumers develop their attitudes, intentions and behaviours towards SHC. The Theory of Planned Behaviour suggests that behavioural intention is shaped by individual attitudes, perceived social norms, and perceived behavioural control [19]. The Value–Belief–Norm theory complements this by linking environmental concern and ecological values to pro-environmental personal norms [20]. In the fashion context, normative pressures from one’s social community can influence second-hand consumption positively or negatively, depending on what is seen as acceptable or desirable [21,22,23]. Furthermore, behavioural economics shows that consumers weigh risks against benefits, and that trust in platforms, sellers and verification systems is crucial for reducing concerns about contamination, authenticity and product quality [24]. Together, these theoretical perspectives provide an integrated framework for this study.

Consumer Motivations and Barriers in SHC Adoption

Based on the planned behaviour theory, intention serves as a critical psychological mechanism that bridges motivation and observable consumer actions [19]. Purchase intention represents a cognitive evaluation process in which individuals assess a product’s perceived utility, necessity, and emotional appeal before making a transactional decision [25]. Several studies have shown that affordability is a key motivator for SHC consumption, especially among younger consumers seeking quality fashion at lower prices. Hur [15] identified price sensitivity as a primary factor influencing SHC adoption, demonstrating a strong correlation between perceived cost savings and purchase intentions. Similarly, Sumo et al. [26] found that financial pragmatism drives SHC purchases, particularly in areas with limited disposable income. Meanwhile, other studies have pointed out that while cost savings remain the main purchasing motivation for SHC, millennials and Generation Z are not only price-driven, but also driven by the desire to maintain a fashionable and individualistic image. Sorensen and Johnson Jorgensen [27] identified a consumer segment known as trendy economists that actively seek to balance fashion trends with budget constraints. More recently, Mizrachi and Sharon [28] argued that second-hand fashion consumers may display fast-fashion-like behaviours despite sustainability narratives, further underscoring the central role of fashionability and trend responsiveness in SHC consumption. Recent studies similarly show that esthetic appeal and the search for unique, expressive items are central to second-hand and pre-loved fashion consumption, with consumers valuing individuality and style as much as sustainability [29]. At the experiential level, research on clothing swaps and second-hand retail spaces highlights the role of social interaction, treasure-hunt excitement, and playful, participatory shopping experiences in attracting consumers to SHC [30]. These studies reveal the significance of esthetic preferences and social interaction in sustainable fashion consumption.

Rising concerns about sustainability and ethical values have also become important drivers of SHC consumption. From a Value–Belief–Norm perspective, pro-environmental values and beliefs about the consequences of fashion consumption can activate personal norms that support choices such as buying second-hand clothing [20]. Recent studies have argued that ethical consumption, including both environmentally and socially oriented behaviours, can enhance consumers’ psychological satisfaction by aligning their purchases with personal values and moral commitments [31,32,33]. Lundblad and Davies [34] highlighted the complex interplay between individual ethics and fashion choices, particularly the role of social justice ethics in supporting sustainable fashion consumption. Ciechelska, et al. [35] identified four key drivers of sustainable fashion adoption: awareness of industry impact, ethical fulfilment, perceived authenticity, and support for local businesses, emphasizing consumers’ growing commitment to socially and environmentally responsible choices. Taken together, these studies illustrate that SHC adoption is shaped by a combination of economic affordability, cultural identity, social influence, and sustainability motivations.

Despite growing interest in sustainable consumption, multiple challenges hinder the broad acceptance of SHC. A key concern is consumers’ hygiene-related anxieties, as many associate pre-owned garments with contamination risks or poor cleanliness. Research indicates that buyers often avoid SHC due to fears that items retain physical or symbolic traces of prior owners, reducing perceived safety and appeal [36]. Beyond concerns over hygiene risks, negative stereotypes surrounding SHC stores further deter potential buyers. Consumers associate SHC shops with bad smells, stained garments, and disorganized store layouts, further reinforcing negative perceptions and hindering the mainstream adoption of SHC [27,37]. Additionally, social stigma linked to second-hand consumption persists, particularly in cultures valuing collective status. For instance, in regions like East Asia, purchasing used clothing is often interpreted as financial instability rather than environmental responsibility [38,39]. While niche markets like vintage fashion attract style-driven consumers, mainstream adoption remains limited due to enduring cultural associations between SHC and economic disadvantage.

China’s eco-friendly fashion landscape integrates diverse models, such as online resale marketplaces, physical vintage shops, and brands focused on garment reuse and recycling. Recent studies highlight rapid growth in urban second-hand luxury markets, fueled by younger consumers prioritizing sustainability and the demand for unique fashion pieces [40]. Digital platforms like Alibaba’s Xianyu and Tencent-backed Zhuanzhuan dominate the sector, offering accessible solutions for trading pre-owned goods. For example, Xianyu, established in 2014, has become a leading platform in China’s second-hand market [41], while Zhuanzhuan’s acquisition of a luxury resale brand in 2023 underscores its ambition to attract high-end buyers [36]. Beyond online spaces, boutique vintage stores cater to shoppers seeking distinctive styles, contrasting fast fashion’s uniformity. Meanwhile, innovative brands like Reclothing Bank emphasize creative material repurposing, extending clothing longevity and reducing waste [42]. This dynamic ecosystem, combining digital convenience, curated retail experiences, and environmental innovation, reflects shifting consumer values toward sustainability and personalized consumption in China.

3. Methodology

This study adopts a mixed-method design to holistically examine drivers of second-hand fashion consumption in China, combining qualitative insights with quantitative validation [43,44]. It aims to address three main research questions. It examines the motivations and barriers that affect Millennials’ and Generation Z’s willingness to purchase SHC; it explores how these factors shape their attitudes and behavioural intentions; and it also investigates how different business models, such as online platforms, vintage stores and upcycling brands, influence consumer perceptions and the wider transition towards sustainable fashion in China.

The research process includes two sequential phases: first, exploratory semi-structured interviews identify consumer attitudes and contextual challenges. These findings guide the development of a structured survey for the second phase, ensuring alignment between theoretical frameworks and empirical data. By cross-referencing interview themes with statistical results, the approach strengthens the reliability of the findings through methodological triangulation [45]. Such integration addresses limitations inherent in single-method studies, offering nuanced explanations for behavioural patterns while maintaining analytical rigour.

The first phase comprises 20 semi-structured interviews. Participants were purposefully sampled, aged between 25 and 40 years, and actively engaged in second-hand fashion consumption, including Xianyu users (n = 8), offline second-hand store customers (n = 7), and stakeholders of upcycling brands (n = 5). Recruitment was conducted through online sustainable fashion communities—including REDNote (also known as Xiaohongshu, a Chinese social networking platform combining user-generated content with digital consumption activities), WeChat groups, and Xianyu forums—as well as offline networks. The sample size was determined based on theoretical saturation to ensure that no new data would yield fundamentally novel insights [46]. Interviews were conducted via Zoom and WeChat voice calls, each lasting between 30 and 45 min. The discussions were structured around four key themes: participants’ personal experiences and perceptions of second-hand fashion, motivations for purchasing SHC, barriers and challenges encountered in second-hand fashion consumption, and comparative experiences across different consumption channels (including online platforms, offline vintage stores, and upcycling brands). The transcribed interview data were analyzed using NVivo to identify nodes, themes, and word frequency, employing thematic analysis to interpret the findings. The findings from the first phase (20 semi-structured interviews) are analyzed and presented in detail in Section 4.1.

The second phase consists of a structured survey (n = 306), designed based on insights from the qualitative phase. The sample profile is presented in

Table 1. Sample profile (n = 306).

Variable		Number	%
Gender	Male	163	53.27%
	Female	143	46.73%
Age	18–25	101	33.01%
	26–30	107	34.97%
	31–40	50	16.34%
	40+	48	15.69%
Education Background	High school or below	76	24.84%
	Associate/Bachelor’s degree	174	56.86%
	Master’s degree or above	56	18.3%
Employment status	Students	143	46.73%
	Employees	106	34.64%
	Freelancers/Entrepreneurs	43	14.05%
	Others	14	4.58%

. The survey aims to assess the key determinants influencing purchase intentions and behaviours regarding SHC. The questionnaire is divided into two sections: (1) demographic information, including participants’ gender, age, educational background, and employment status; and (2) measurement of key factors influencing SHC purchase intention, with core variables derived from the qualitative findings. All items are measured using a five-point Likert scale (1 = strongly disagree, 3 = neutral, 5 = strongly agree) and adapted from established studies to ensure reliability and validity. Data analysis was conducted by SPSS version 29, including regression analysis (examining the key factors influencing purchase intention), correlation analysis (exploring the relationship between variables) and difference analysis (identifying differences in purchase attitudes between different population groups). The findings from the second-phase survey are reported in Section 4.2, Section 4.3 and Section 4.4.

The study was conducted in accordance with the principles of the Declaration of Helsinki, and the research protocol was approved by the Arts, Humanities and Cultures Research Ethics Committee at the University of Leeds (Ref. No. FAHC 22-010, approved 1 November 2022). Written informed consent was obtained from all interview participants prior to data collection. For the survey phase, participants provided informed consent electronically before accessing the questionnaire. Data were anonymized upon collection, with identifying information securely separated from response data.

4. Results

4.1. Qualitative Analysis of SHC Purchase Intention

Through qualitative analysis and interview data coding, this study identified five key determinant factors that influence SHC purchase intention (as shown in

Table 2. Key motivations and barriers influencing second-hand clothing purchase intentions.

Theme	Sub-Theme	Participants (n = 20)	Key Illustrative Quotes
Economic Accessibility	Affordability; Budget management	12	“It’s cheaper than new clothing” “I have a limited budget for a new one, a used one is like new”
Stylistic Identity	Uniqueness; Vintage style	11	“SHC lets me access styles difficult to find on the market.”
Eco-Conscious	Resale and reuse; Avoiding overproduction	11	“Buying SHC helps reduce waste” “I value its environmental benefits”
Shopping Experience	Positive: Treasure hunting; Vintage store atmosphere; Convenient online shopping	8	“Buying vintage clothing is like treasure hunting” “I enjoy the experience of browsing vintage stores”
	Negative: Hygiene concerns; Return or exchange policy; Seller trust issues and authenticity	15	“Lack of transparency in cleaning or disinfection” “I worry about accidentally purchasing counterfeit items, as they are often non-refundable”
Social Influence	Peer impact; Influencer impact; Social media trends; Online vintage community	10	“I follow style influencers wearing vintage clothing” “My friends recommended the second-hand clothing platform Xianyu”

). Not all participants discussed every factor, and the reported frequencies simply indicate how many interviewees raised each theme, highlighting the relative salience of these issues in the qualitative data.

• Economic Accessibility: Economic factors emerged as the primary driver, with 12 participants (60%) highlighting cost savings, such as lower prices compared to new clothing and the ability to manage budgets effectively.
• Style and Uniqueness: Esthetic preferences and fashion diversity played a key role in SHC adoption. Eleven participants (55%) emphasized that SHC provides access to vintage designs and personalized fashion choices that are rarely available in mainstream markets.
• Eco-Consciousness: Environmental consciousness was also a consideration, mentioned by 11 participants (55%); however, some participants expressed scepticism regarding the actual sustainability impact of second-hand fashion at the same time.
• Shopping Experience: Experiences were mixed. Positive experiences (8 participants) included the excitement of discovering vintage pieces through a “treasure hunt” and the convenience of online platforms. In contrast, negative experiences (15 participants) were primarily related to concerns over hygiene (“There’s no way to verify if the clothes have been properly cleaned or disinfected”), as well as restrictive return policies and the risk of counterfeit products.
• Cultural and Social Influence: Ten participants (50%) indicated that recommendations from social media influencers, discussions within peer groups, and the rising popularity of vintage fashion trends directly enhanced their interest in SHC.

The qualitative findings indicate varying consumer preferences and behaviours regarding SHC purchasing channels. Participants identified online platforms (62%) and offline SHC stores (54%) as the most popular choices, followed by personal social media accounts (50%), such as WeChat Stores, REDNote, Douyin (TikTok China), and Weibo. Beyond traditional consumption models, online second-hand platforms facilitate consumer participation in circular economy practices through both buying and selling SHC. C2C platforms, such as Xianyu, serve as both resale marketplaces and sources of second-hand fashion. Some consumers use these platforms primarily for purchasing, while others engage in resale to generate additional income. A frequent Xianyu user described their transactional motivation behind SHC purchases, “I use Xianyu mainly to declutter and make some extra money. Sometimes, I come across second-hand clothes with a good price and style.”.

Social media has become a highly influential platform for SHC purchases, offering curated fashion collections, direct seller interactions, and personalized recommendations. Many participants noted the efficiency and convenience of discovering SHC through influencers and community-driven platforms. A participant highlighted the role of influencers in SHC discovery, “I have been following a vintage fashion influencer on REDNote, and she has a WeChat store where I buy most of my vintage clothing.” Another participant emphasized the engagement and interactivity of social media in SHC transactions, “I like how social media provides personalized recommendations and allows me to interact with sellers directly before purchasing.” Meanwhile, the qualitative analysis also revealed challenges faced by upcycled fashion brands attempting to integrate into China’s second-hand clothing market. Emerging brands, such as Reclothing Bank, focus on transforming textile waste into high-end fashion but face significant production constraints. A designer in the upcycling industry described the difficulties of scalability and pricing, “Each upcycled coat requires extra handcrafting. Many customers say they love it, but pricing and production limitations make it difficult to scale.” Despite increased media attention, participants noted that upcycled fashion brands continue to face substantial challenges in brand operations and cost constraints.

4.2. Quantitative Validation of Key Determinants

Building on the qualitative findings, this study conducted a survey (n = 306) to further quantitatively assess the correlation between these determinants and purchase intention. A correlation analysis was performed using the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (SPSS) to examine the significance of the relationships between these key factors and purchase intention. A multiple linear regression analysis was employed to identify the key determinants influencing consumers’ SHC purchase intention.

Table 3. Pearson correlation.

Pearson Correlation
	Economic Accessibility	Style Identity	Eco-Consciousness	Shopping Experience	Social Influence	Purchase Intention
Economic Accessibility	1
Stylistic Identity	0.316 **	1
Eco-Conscious	0.382 **	0.333 **	1
Shopping Experience	0.355 **	0.393 **	0.376 **	1
Social Influence	0.329 **	0.439 **	0.416 **	0.512 **	1
Purchase Intention	0.344 **	0.383 **	0.352 **	0.383 **	0.412 **	1

** p < 0.01.

presents the correlation matrix among key variables. According to Pearson’s correlation analysis, all variables exhibited significant positive relationships (p < 0.01). The overall model was statistically significant (F = 22.143, p < 0.001) and explained 27.8% of the variance in purchase intention (R² = 0.278), with an adjusted explanatory power of 26.5%. This indicates that Economic Accessibility, Stylistic Identity, Eco-Consciousness, Shopping Experience, and Social Influence together form the core driving factors of SHC adoption.

Regression results revealed the relative strength of each determinant in shaping SHC purchase intention:

• Social Influence was the most significant predictor (β = 0.174, p = 0.006), with a non-standardized coefficient of 0.181, indicating that for each unit increase in social recommendation strength, purchase intention increases by 0.181 units. This highlights the impact of fashion trends, social media influence, peer recommendations, and word-of-mouth effects.
• Stylistic Identity (β = 0.170, p = 0.004) also played a crucial role, suggesting that the pursuit of unique and vintage fashion directly drives SHC consumption. Consumers seek individuality through SHC, integrating their fashion choices with self-expression and social validation.
• Economic Accessibility (β = 0.140, p = 0.014) and Shopping Experience (β = 0.132, p = 0.033) are fundamental drivers, reflecting price sensitivity and service convenience, respectively. Cost-effectiveness remains a critical factor, while user-friendly shopping platforms and policies (e.g., logistics, return policies) enhance consumer confidence.
• Eco-Consciousness (β = 0.120, p = 0.041) validates the behavioural translation of sustainability awareness into purchasing actions, suggesting that many consumers view SHC as a means of supporting environmental responsibility.

All independent variables passed the multicollinearity test, with variance inflation factors (VIF < 2) and tolerance values (>0.6) within acceptable thresholds, ensuring the robustness of the model. Furthermore, the Durbin-Watson statistic remained close to 2, confirming that the estimated results are reliable and free from autocorrelation issues.

4.3. Synergistic Interactions Among Motivational Factors

Pearson’s correlation analysis further clarified the interrelationships among key variables (as shown in

Table 4. Linear regression analysis for predictors of purchase intention.

Linear Regression Analysis Results (n = 294)
	Unstandardized Coefficients		Standardized Coefficients	t	p	Collinearity Diagnostics
	B	Std. Error	Beta			VIF	Tolerance
Constant	1.054	0.239	-	4.411	0.000 **	-	-
Economic Accessibility	0.128	0.052	0.140	2.474	0.014 *	1.284	0.779
Stylistic Identity	0.160	0.055	0.170	2.923	0.004 **	1.351	0.740
Eco-Conscious	0.114	0.055	0.120	2.050	0.041 *	1.365	0.733
Shopping Experience	0.132	0.061	0.132	2.145	0.033 *	1.505	0.664
Social Influence	0.181	0.066	0.174	2.757	0.006 **	1.584	0.631
R2	0.278
Adjusted R2	0.265
F	F (5288) = 22.143, p = 0.000
D-W Value	2.100

* p < 0.05, ** p < 0.01.

), revealing strong synergies between different determinants:

• Interaction Between Social Influence and Shopping Experience optimization (r = 0.512): The high correlation between these two variables suggests that enhancing platform services (such as transparent hygiene and sanitation measures, return policies, and improved customer experiences) can create viral spread through word-of-mouth effects.
• Social Empowerment of Stylistic Identity (r = 0.439): The strong association between Stylistic Identity and Social Influence indicates that SHC is not merely a personal esthetic choice but also a social fashion trend. Fashion individuality is increasingly validated through social media and peer recognition, reinforcing consumer motivation to explore niche fashion styles, thereby further accelerating SHC adoption.
• Value Coexistence of Economic and Environmental Considerations (r = 0.382): The positive relationship between Economic Accessibility and Eco-Consciousness challenges traditional perceptions, as 61.3% of participants believe that SHC consumption simultaneously achieves the dual goals of saving money and green shopping. This reinforces the dual motivation behind sustainable consumption behaviours.

4.4. Demographic Variations in SHC Adoption

Table 5. ANOVA results for gender differences in determinants of SHC adoption.

ANOVA Results
	Gender (Mean ± Standard Deviation)		F	p
	Male (n = 157)	Female (n = 137)
Economic Accessibility	2.93 ± 1.15	3.96 ± 0.88	72.204	0.002 **
Stylistic Identity	2.30 ± 0.91	4.31 ± 0.56	505.852	0.000 **
Eco-Conscious	3.02 ± 1.21	3.81 ± 0.87	40.236	0.003 **
Shopping Experience	2.96 ± 1.30	3.82 ± 0.83	44.936	0.000 **
Social Influence	3.07 ± 1.25	3.99 ± 0.74	57.548	0.000 **
Purchase Intention	3.09 ± 1.33	3.92 ± 0.79	41.204	0.000 **

** p < 0.01.

presents the ANOVA results assessing demographic differences in SHC adoption. The findings indicate that female consumers demonstrate significantly higher purchase intentions across all key determinants compared to male consumers (p < 0.05). This disparity is particularly evident in Stylistic Identity (F = 505.852, p < 0.001) and Social Influence (F = 57.548, p < 0.001), suggesting that women are more driven by fashion uniqueness and peer influence when engaging with SHC.

Among all purchasing channels, as shown in Figure 1, 67.69% of participants reported using personal social media accounts (such as WeChat Stores, REDNote, Douyin, and Weibo) to buy SHC, making it the most popular option. This was followed by online platforms (61.9%) and offline vintage stores (54.42%). These findings underscore the growing role of social media in second-hand fashion, likely due to its ability to offer personalized recommendations, influencer engagement, and interactive purchasing experiences.

An age-based analysis further reveals that younger consumers (18 and below, 19–25) prefer social media-based second-hand transactions, with 67.37% and 62.14% of participants in these age groups, respectively, choosing this option. In contrast, consumers aged 26–30 and above show a relatively lower preference for social media-based transactions but exhibit a higher inclination toward offline channels (e.g., vintage stores). Notably, 43.75% of participants aged 26–30 reported purchasing second-hand fashion through offline vintage stores, a significant contrast to the younger demographic. No significant differences (p > 0.05) were found among different education levels, or occupational categories, suggesting that SHC consumption patterns remain relatively stable across these demographic variables.

5. Discussion

This study reveals the nuances of second-hand fashion consumption among Chinese millennials and Generation Z, highlighting the complex interplay between key determinants of SHC purchase intention. It illustrates how social influence, shopping experience, economic accessibility, eco-consciousness, and stylistic identity collectively shape consumer behaviour.

5.1. Economic Accessibility and Pragmatic Environmentalism

While economic accessibility (β = 0.140) serves as a foundational enabler, stylistic identity and social influence emerged as stronger predictors of purchasing behaviour. This finding contrasts with prior studies that emphasized price sensitivity or environmental altruism. The study indicates that although financial capacity enables purchasing power, it rarely serves as an independent motivator. Qualitative data highlight a key issue: participants acknowledge cost savings as a primary entry point for SHC but emphasize that price alone does not sustain engagement: “If it’s not a special item, I would rather buy a new product”, “Aesthetic appeal matters more than just affordability”.

Notably, the positive correlation between economic accessibility and eco-consciousness (r = 0.382) underscores a pragmatic duality, 61.3% of participants consider SHC a means of both saving money and green shopping. Chinese consumers exhibit pragmatic environmental consciousness, motivated more by waste reduction through resale than ideological environmentalism. Qualitative analysis reveals that participants generally hold a positive attitude toward SHC, particularly regarding waste reduction and support for sustainability initiatives. However, despite overall positivity, a segment of respondents expressed scepticism about SHC’s practical environmental impact. For example, one participant stated, “Buying second-hand helps reduce waste, but I’m unsure if it truly protects the environment.” These findings reveal a utilitarian green mindset, where SHC adoption is driven by practical benefits (cost, style) rather than purely ethical considerations. Retailers could therefore balance functional value with strategies to bridge the credibility gap in sustainability claims. Furthermore, the weaker regression coefficient for eco-consciousness (β = 0.120) suggests that environmental benefits still rank below social and stylistic motivations. The moderate correlation between eco-consciousness and social influence (r = 0.416) indicates that social media and peer influence play an important role in shaping environmental perceptions. Policymakers could leverage this duality by subsidizing shared economy platforms that transparently quantify environmental impact, thereby linking individual thriftiness to collective sustainability goals.

5.2. The Dominance of Social Influence and Stylistic Identity

Social influence (β = 0.174, p = 0.006) emerged as the most significant factor affecting SHC purchase intention, followed closely by stylistic identity (β = 0.170, p = 0.004). The strong correlation between stylistic identity and social influence (r = 0.439) highlights the crucial role of peer networks, influencer endorsements, and social validation in shaping fashion choices. Qualitative findings further suggest that esthetic uniqueness profoundly impacts consumer behaviour, particularly in the realm of vintage fashion. Unlike previous generations, who associated SHC with economic necessity, younger consumers reinterpret thrift shopping as a cultural identity and fashion exploration practice. Some participants actively seek second-hand fashion due to their interest in vintage esthetics, archival fashion, or discontinued designer collections. Respondents frequently described SHC as a means of self-expression, allowing them to acquire unique, high-quality pieces not available in mainstream retail. Moreover, fashion individuality is increasingly validated through social media, where self-expression and peer recognition drive consumer participation. This finding aligns with China’s broader digital fashion ecosystem, where trend-driven consumption and influencer culture significantly impact purchasing behaviour. Platforms such as REDNote, Douyin, and Weibo play a pivotal role in shaping SHC perceptions, supporting prior research on social media’s role in consumer engagement and trend diffusion.

5.3. Synergies in Platform Optimization

Analysis revealed the strongest correlation between social influence and shopping experience (r = 0.512), emphasizing the critical role of platform design in SHC adoption. Qualitative insights corroborate existing literature, identifying hygiene apprehensions and trust deficits as persistent barriers to SHC engagement, particularly due to consumers’ aversion to perceived contamination risks [47]. Similarly, trust in sellers and platforms emerged as a crucial determinant, confirming prior research that transparent sourcing and authentication processes are essential for building consumer confidence [48]. Therefore, reducing these barriers by verifying hygiene protocols, enhancing seller accountability and flexible return policies could increase SHC adoption.

The interplay between platform functionality and sociocultural dynamics highlights the distinctiveness of China’s SHC ecosystem. Unlike Western counterparts such as eBay or Vinted, which prioritize transactional efficiency, Chinese platforms like Xianyu and REDNote seamlessly integrate commerce with community-driven content creation. This fusion transforms SHC consumption into a culturally embedded, interactive lifestyle, where users engage in fashion discovery, peer recommendations, and creative reuse discussions. To succeed in this market, retailers could adopt dual strategies. They should optimize practical features such as authentication and logistics while leveraging Key Opinion Leaders, livestream influencers, and user-generated content to reframe SHC as a collective, trend-driven experience rather than an isolated purchasing decision.

5.4. Demographic Differences and Strategic Segmentation

The analysis of variance (ANOVA) revealed statistically significant gender differences across several dimensions influencing second-hand fashion consumption (p < 0.05). Scores for stylistic identity (F = 505.852, p < 0.001) and social influence (F = 57.548, p < 0.001) were significantly higher among female participants, suggesting that esthetic self-expression and socially mediated interaction play a more prominent role in their engagement with second-hand fashion. This tendency is particularly evident within digital environments where visual presentation and community interaction reinforce one another. Within hybrid social-commerce platforms such as REDNote, Douyin, WeChat Stores, and Xianyu, female-driven communities have become crucial spaces for esthetic expression, social interaction, and sustainability-oriented discourse. These platforms combine social networking functions with second-hand retail, amplifying the visibility of sustainable fashion through participatory practices such as outfit sharing, product reviews, and peer recommendations. The prominence of these interactions indicates that gender remains a key analytical factor in understanding differences in participation and communication dynamics within China’s sustainable fashion market.

Age-related differences were also evident, especially in channel preferences. Younger participants (aged 18–25) demonstrated a stronger inclination towards social media platforms (67.37%), indicating the role of digital interactivity, peer endorsement, and influencer marketing in shaping their purchase behaviour. By contrast, older millennials (aged 30–40) exhibited a higher preference for offline second-hand stores (43.75%), valuing product authenticity, tactile experience, and interpersonal trust. These generational distinctions reflect different forms of experiential consumption shaped by digital literacy and lifestyle orientation.

From a strategic perspective, these demographic variations highlight the importance of segmented marketing approaches. For younger consumers, brand engagement may strengthen through user-generated content, gamified sustainability campaigns, and collaborations with influencers. For older cohorts, integrating offline authenticity with online convenience, such as QR-based authenticity verification or hybrid events, could enhance trust and long-term retention. Overall, demographic segmentation in the Chinese second-hand fashion market underscores the need for differentiated communication strategies that align with both gendered motivations and generational consumption logics.

6. Conclusions and Implications

6.1. Theoretical Contributions

This study provides a comprehensive analysis of the key determinants influencing second-hand clothing consumption among Chinese consumers, particularly younger generations. By integrating qualitative and quantitative methods, the research identifies economic accessibility, stylistic identity, eco-consciousness, shopping experience, and social influence as the primary factors shaping SHC purchase intention. It extends existing research and refines the application of the Theory of Planned Behaviour to SHC. The findings highlight the dominance of social influence and stylistic identity, underscoring the critical role of peer networks, influencer culture, and esthetic uniqueness in driving SHC adoption. Additionally, the findings bring together insights from Value–Belief–Norm theory and consumer culture approaches by showing how economic motivations and environmental concerns intersect in shaping sustainable fashion choices. This study reveals the interdependence between economic and environmental motivations, where pragmatic consumers perceive SHC as a means of both saving money and contributing to sustainable consumption. This dual orientation extends existing work, which typically treats financial and environmental motives in isolation, and offers a more nuanced understanding of how different motivational structures coexist in an emerging market context.

Furthermore, the study contributes to research on market segmentation in sustainable fashion. The results demonstrate significant demographic differences in SHC adoption. Female consumers exhibit stronger engagement, particularly in fashion-driven and social validation aspects, while younger consumers show a clear preference for social media-based second-hand transactions. In contrast, older consumers are more inclined towards offline vintage stores, suggesting that different consumer segments priorities distinct purchasing channels. The correlation analysis further reveals the synergies between platform optimization and social influence, indicating that enhancing hygiene transparency, return policies, and interactive shopping experiences can significantly boost consumer confidence and engagement.

6.2. Practical Implications

The findings provide several practical recommendations for second-hand clothing retailers, digital platforms, and policymakers to enhance sustainable fashion consumption in China. For SHC retailers and digital platforms, the prominence of stylistic identity and social influence points to the need to foreground fashion, self-expression and social proof in the way products are presented. Collaborations with fashion key opinion leaders on REDNote, Douyin, and Weibo can be used to showcase the uniqueness and styling potential of SHC, while also normalizing second-hand fashion within aspirational, trend-oriented narratives. Visual curation, outfit suggestions and storytelling around garment provenance can help reposition SHC as a desirable and creative option. Building trust remains a central managerial challenge. Platforms and retailers can reduce perceived risks by introducing clearer product condition grading, verified seller schemes and transparent information about cleaning, inspection and authentication processes. Fair and visible return and refund policies are particularly important for quality-sensitive consumers. For time-pressured users, improvements in search filters, recommendation functions and stock organization can make it easier to find suitable items. Where possible, online environments can be complemented by offline experiences to combine the convenience of digital access with the reassurance of physical inspection.

From a marketing perspective, the findings suggest that communication strategies should be tailored to the concerns of different segments. Fashion-focused campaigns that emphasize uniqueness and styling may resonate more strongly with female and style-oriented consumers, while messages highlighting value for money and durability may appeal to more price-sensitive groups. For younger users, integrated messages that bring together economic, environmental and identity-related benefits are likely to be particularly effective, as they mirror the multiple motivations revealed in this study. Rather than relying solely on abstract sustainability claims, marketers can frame SHC as an expressive and responsible way of engaging with fashion.

Given the positive correlation between economic accessibility and eco-consciousness, policymakers should incentivise sustainable shopping through subsidies for circular economy platforms and eco-labelling schemes, reinforcing affordability and environmental responsibility. Collaborating with educational institutions to incorporate sustainable fashion consumption into environmental awareness programmes helps turn widespread interest in sustainability into concrete consumer practices. Implementing these strategies will strengthen consumer confidence, expand market reach, and drive SHC adoption in China’s growing resale economy.

7. Limitations and Future Research

This study acknowledges several limitations. The sample size and the use of an online survey may not fully reflect the diversity of second-hand fashion consumers. Future research could draw on larger and more diverse samples across regions and demographic groups to improve generalisability and capture a wider range of SHC practices. Given the complex and multi-determined nature of consumer behaviour, it is likely that the five determinants examined in this study capture only part of the factors shaping young consumers’ decisions to purchase SHC. Future studies could extend the model by incorporating additional psychological and contextual variables, such as habit, platform trust, perceived behavioural control and more fine-grained forms of social influence. Experimental work comparing different types of marketing appeals (for example, economic, environmental, or status-oriented) across consumer segments would also be valuable.

In addition, the study relies on cross-sectional data, which limits the ability to trace changes in perceptions and practices over time. Longitudinal research could track how attitudes, norms and purchasing patterns evolve as SHC markets mature in China and as digital commerce ecosystems continue to develop. Such studies might also investigate generational differences more systematically, examining how older cohorts engage with SHC and whether their motivations diverge from those of Millennials and Generation Z. Taken together, these avenues for future research would help to build a more dynamic account of how second-hand fashion consumption develops within China’s broader transition towards a circular fashion economy.