Challenges and Responsibilities in Service-Based Sustainable Fashion Retail: Insights and Guidelines from a Qualitative Study
Abstract
1. Introduction
- RQ1: What components characterise service-based business models that support sustainability in the fashion retail sector?
- RQ2: What insights emerge from experts in the fashion retail sector regarding the challenges, opportunities, and responsibilities associated with adopting service-based sustainable models?
- RQ3: How can the findings from literature and expert consultation be integrated into a set of guidelines for sustainable, service-oriented fashion retail?
2. Literature Review
2.1. Trends in Service-Based Sustainable Fashion Retail
2.2. Components of Service-Based Business Models in Fashion Retail
| Title | Year | Methods | Components |
|---|---|---|---|
| Consumer Engagement in Circular Consumption Systems: A Roadmap Structure for Apparel Retail Companies [26] | 2024 | Literature Review, semi-structured interviews, roadmap development based on the Grand Challenges framework [111] | 4, 7, 8 |
| Modeling the supply chain sustainability imperatives in the fashion retail industry: Implications for sustainable development [27] | 2024 | Literature review, expert feedback, Pareto analysis, and the Bayesian Best–Worst Method (BWM) | 1, 2, 4, 8 |
| Communicating sustainability to children through fashion retail third places [38] | 2025 | Literature review and focus group | 4 |
| Scaling circular business models: Strategic paths of second-hand fashion retail [108] | 2025 | Process-based study | 3, 4, 8 |
| Exploring Scalability from a Triple Bottom Line Perspective: Challenges and Strategic Resources for Fashion Resale [102] | 2023 | exploratory interviews | 2, 3, 5, 6 |
| Trade-offs in supply chain transparency: The case of Nudie Jeans Co [73] | 2015 | Single case in-depth analysis and managers interviews | 1, 4 |
| Green merchandising of textiles and apparel in a circular economy: Recent trends, framework, challenges and future prospects towards sustainability [40] | 2025 | Literature review | 1, 4 |
| Back to the future of fashion: Circularity and consumer ethics [107] | 2025 | Quantitative survey analysis | 2, 4, 5 |
| Advancing circular economy in the textile industry: A Comprehensive Study of Reverse Logistics and Operational Practices in Austria [89] | 2025 | Literature review and qualitative questionnaire-based expert interviews | 2, 3 |
| Adoption of Eco-Friendly Waste Reduction Practices in the Clothing Retail Sector in Cape Town [63] | 2024 | Purposive sampling and in-depth interviews | 1, 2, 3, 5 |
| Eco-Transcendence in Fashion Retail [106] | 2024 | Survey administered with convenient sampling and statistical analysis | 1, 2, 4, 7, 8 |
| The challenges to circular economy in the Indian apparel industry: A qualitative study [109] | 2025 | Literature review and DELPHI study | 4, 5, 8 |
| The role of human resource management (HRM) for the implementation of sustainable product-service systems (PSS)-An analysis of fashion retailers [101] | 2018 | Quantitative questionnaire and ANOVA analysis | 5 |
| Components and Description |
|---|
| C1—Long-term supply chain sustainability and transparency This component highlights the importance of certifications, audits, and verifiable sustainability standards that ensure compliance, reliability, and ethical practices. It also discusses the balance between transparency and collaboration, noting that full disclosure may conflict with cooperative supplier relationships. |
| C2—Adoption of digitisation and technological solutions Digital technologies such as AI, robotics, 3D sampling, and data management systems are key enablers of sustainability and efficiency. They improve supply chain transparency, reduce environmental impact, and enhance brand–consumer interactions in both physical and digital environments. |
| C3—Breadth-scaling This component explores how circular business models can be scaled through replication, standardisation, and strategic partnerships. It addresses operational challenges such as inventory management and the individual handling of garments, which complicate scalability in online and offline contexts. |
| C4—Depth-scaling Depth-scaling focuses on systemic cultural and institutional change to foster consumer understanding, trust, and responsible behaviour. It underscores the importance of educational experiences, storytelling, and value-driven communication to promote sustainability-oriented mindsets. |
| C5—Enhancement of human resources The success of service-based retail models relies on skilled, motivated employees and supportive labour conditions. Professional growth, fair wages, participatory decision-making, and cross-disciplinary expertise are critical for value co-creation with consumers and partners. |
| C6—Functional and experiential brick-and-mortar shops Physical stores act as operational hubs for circular practices and as experiential spaces that enhance customer engagement. Their design and functions support product take-back, education, and interaction, bridging logistics with immersive brand experiences. |
| C7—Communication strategies Effective sustainability communication requires coherence between corporate values, product offerings, and consumer expectations. Transparent and consistent messages help prevent greenwashing and reinforce consumer trust in retailers’ environmental and ethical commitments. |
| C8—Institutional support to sustainable business models Institutional and policy frameworks play a crucial role in facilitating the transition toward circular economy models. Financial incentives, regulatory support, and context-sensitive policies are essential to improve the viability and scalability of sustainable retail practices. |
3. Materials and Methods
3.1. Participants in the Focus Group
3.2. Discussion Guide
3.3. Conduction of the Activity and Analysis of Results
4. Results: Emerging Themes from the Focus Group Analysis
4.1. Retail as a Driver of Sustainability-Oriented Mindset
4.2. Retail as a Window over the Supply Chain
4.3. Servitised Retail in Support of a Sustainable Consumption
4.4. Sustainable Retail as an Experiential Space
4.5. Transparency and Traceability as Founding Values of Sustainable Retail
4.6. The Role of EU Policies in Sustainable Fashion
4.7. Opportunities for Improving the Mapping of Service-Based Fashion Retail
4.8. Stakeholders Interested in a Framework of Sustainable and Service-Based Retail
4.9. Other Opportunities: AI, Cross-Fertilisation, and Brand Accountability
4.10. Cross-Fertilisation from the Agriculture Sector
4.11. Brand Accountability
5. Discussion
5.1. Guidelines for Service-Based Fashion Retail
5.1.1. Aim at Transparency
5.1.2. Adopt Digitisation and Technological Solutions
5.1.3. Offer Immersive Experiences and Community Building in the Store
5.1.4. Enhance Human Resources
5.1.5. Communicate Sustainability Efforts with a Pragmatic Tone of Voice
5.2. Limitations and Further Works
6. Conclusions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
References
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| Profiles | Participants |
|---|---|
| Profile A: Manager from the fashion industry The profile describes professionals with a managing and strategic role in the fashion industry to bring into the discussion the perspectives of someone concerned with a company’s organisational and economic matters (i.e., managing directors, heads of buying, marketing directors, and CEOs). Two participants with contrasting backgrounds were selected: one from a sustainability-focused company, the other from the fast fashion sector. | Participant 1 Formerly an industrial designer, P1 works for an Italian fabric producer operating under strict environmental regulations. The company promotes its low-impact production as a value-added feature and recently entered the B2C market with an on-demand store model. |
| Participant 2 P2 is a professional in the fashion and luxury sectors and currently works for a multinational brand in the fast-fashion category. P2 has two decades of experience in the fashion field, particularly in management, retail buying, and e-commerce. | |
| Profile B: Social Entrepreneur in the Fashion System This profile includes professionals working in fashion-based social enterprises [41], supporting vulnerable groups [104,105] through labour inclusion and initiatives aligned with distributive justice [28]. Their activities include garment collection, sorting, upcycling, and social tailoring. | Participant 3 With a background in environmental engineering, P3 is an expert in circular economy and social cooperation. P3 chairs a long-standing SE in northern Italy that creates employment for vulnerable individuals by managing the reuse and resale of second-hand garments. |
| Profile C: Sustainable Fashion Communication Expert This profile includes professionals who raise public awareness of sustainable fashion by reporting on trends, technologies, policies, and events, and advocating for improved industry practices. Fashion communication often resonates with linear consumption models, but it can be a key factor in supporting the transition towards sustainability [115,116]. | Participant 4 P4 is a journalist with experience at a major women’s fashion magazine and later specialised in corporate sustainability communication. P4 is part of a collective that uses fine arts, including exhibitions and performances in retail spaces, to promote sustainable fashion. |
| Profile D: Retail Technologist This profile includes professionals who implement technological solutions in retail, focusing on phygital and omnichannel strategies to enhance customer experience and operational efficiency [117,118]. | Participant 5 With a background in industrial engineering, P5 has a decade of experience in digitalisation projects. P5 specialises in omnichannel strategies that connect consumers and brands through both digital and physical touchpoints, working in a company that develops scalable retail solutions. |
| Profile E: Sustainability Consultant The profile describes experts in techniques, regulations, methodologies and opportunities in activating sustainable transitions. They guide brands and manufacturers towards environmentally and socially responsible practices. | Participant 6 P6 has two decades of experience in the fashion industry as a slow fashion designer and a visual merchandising instructor. As an independent figure, P6 disseminates slow fashion concepts through various news outlets and co-founded a network that offers consultancy to startups and micro-enterprises focused on circular and socially responsible innovation. |
| Focus Group Phases | Focus Group Questions |
|---|---|
| Phase 1: Introduction Participants were informed that the session aimed to inquire the area of service-based fashion retail and its links to sustainability, with the goal of formulating insights to support businesses and designers in innovating the retail industry. The discussion was moderated to encourage diverse viewpoints without requiring consensus. Before starting, the moderator confirmed that while some participants had briefly met at public events (P1 with P3; P4 with P6), no close personal or hierarchical relationships were present, suggesting that focus group participants felt no interference in expressing their opinions. | No questions |
| Phase 2: Exploration This phase aims to explore perspectives around the theme of sustainable retail, asking participants broad questions to collect general opinions and experiences. | Q2.1 When you think of sustainable retail, what comes to mind? Q2.2 When you think of the servitisation of retail, what comes to mind? Q2.3 When you think of the pairing of servitisation and sustainability, what comes to mind? |
| Phase 3: Intensive Discussion This phase presents and discusses the mapping of service-based retail described in the introduction to foster experts’ reflections on the sector, evaluate the appropriateness of the mapping, and collecting suggestions for its improvement and deployment. The moderator used slides first to introduce the fundamental aspects of the framework (i.e., how it is created and its three main areas of services). Then slides are used to unpack the components of every area, using a storytelling approach based on incremental reveals to present content piece by piece, thereby preventing the audience from being overwhelmed. When needed, examples of services are provided to help participants understand the types of initiatives that have been mapped. Questions are asked after the presentation. | Q3.1 What do you think of the proposed service categorisation and the identified sub-groups? Which aspects would you modify, and how? Q3.2 Based on your professional expertise in the fashion industry, how frequently are the three previously described areas described together? Q3.3 Which types of retail can benefit from implementing one or more of these services? Q3.4 How do you think this mapping can be shared with retailers to encourage the implementation of one or more services? Q3.5 What opportunities and risks might be associated with implementing the presented services? |
| Phase 4: Conclusion The last phase aims to gather conclusive remarks by offering participants the opportunity to recall essential concepts or highlight any topics not addressed in the discussion. | Q4.1 Among the topics discussed, which do you consider the most relevant? And which aspects might have been overlooked? |
| Theme |
|---|
| 4.1 Retail as a Driver of Sustainability-Oriented Mindset |
| 4.2 Retail as a Window over the Supply Chain |
| 4.3 Servitised Retail in Support of a Sustainable Consumption |
| 4.4 Sustainable retail as an Experiential Space |
| 4.5 Transparency and Traceability as Founding Values of Sustainable Retail |
| 4.6 The Role of EU Policies in Sustainable Fashion |
| 4.7 Opportunities for Improving the Mapping of Service-based Fashion Retail |
| 4.8 Stakeholders Interested in a Framework of Sustainable and Service-based Retail |
| 4.9 Other opportunities: AI, cross-fertilisation, and brand accountability |
| 4.10 Cross-fertilisation from the Agriculture Sector |
| 4.11 Brand Accountability |
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Elli, T. Challenges and Responsibilities in Service-Based Sustainable Fashion Retail: Insights and Guidelines from a Qualitative Study. Sustainability 2025, 17, 10474. https://doi.org/10.3390/su172310474
Elli T. Challenges and Responsibilities in Service-Based Sustainable Fashion Retail: Insights and Guidelines from a Qualitative Study. Sustainability. 2025; 17(23):10474. https://doi.org/10.3390/su172310474
Chicago/Turabian StyleElli, Tommaso. 2025. "Challenges and Responsibilities in Service-Based Sustainable Fashion Retail: Insights and Guidelines from a Qualitative Study" Sustainability 17, no. 23: 10474. https://doi.org/10.3390/su172310474
APA StyleElli, T. (2025). Challenges and Responsibilities in Service-Based Sustainable Fashion Retail: Insights and Guidelines from a Qualitative Study. Sustainability, 17(23), 10474. https://doi.org/10.3390/su172310474

