Search Results (9)

The cosmetic market is constantly evolving and ever-changing, particularly with the introduction and incorporation of nanotechnology-based processes into cosmetics for the production of unique formulations with both aesthetic and therapeutic benefits. There is no doubt that nanotechnology is an emerging technology for cosmetic formulations. Among the numerous cosmetic items, incorporating nanomaterials has provided a greater scope and is commonly utilized in facial masks, hair products, antiaging creams, sunscreen creams, and lipsticks. In cosmetics, nanosized materials, including lipid crystals, liposomes, lipid NPs, inorganic nanocarriers, polymer nanocarriers, solid lipid nanocarriers (SLNs), nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs), nanofibers, nanocrystals, and nanoemulsions, have become common ingredients. The implementation of nanotechnology in the formulation of face masks will improve its efficacy. Nanotechnology enhances the penetration of active ingredients used in the preparation of face masks, such as peel-off masks and sheet masks, which results in better effects. The emphasis of this review is mainly on the formulation of cosmetic face masks, in which the impact of nanotechnology has been demonstrated to improve the product performance on the skin. Full article

Phthalate esters are commonly included in the formulations of cosmetics and related products in order to retain fragrance, enhance flexibility (i.e., by acting as plasticizers), facilitate the dissolution and dispersion of other ingredients, and improve the overall texture and sensory experience of the products. This study aimed to assess the presence and concentrations of phthalates in cosmetics by analyzing a comprehensive set of samples collected over a period of five years (2016–2020). The concentrations of nine different phthalate esters (BBP, DEHP, DNOP, DPP, DBP, DIPP, DMEP, DMP and PIPP) in 1110 cosmetics samples from France and Spain were determined by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. The samples were included in five categories: soaps and shampoos; hand and body creams; lip gloss and lipsticks; nail polish; and facial makeup and skincare products. Some of the samples (4.86%) contained at least one phthalate at concentrations above the threshold limit (1 µg mL⁻¹). Variable concentrations of different phthalates were determined in the 54 positive samples identified. DEHP was the most frequently detected phthalate, followed by DBP. The findings revealed different profiles according to the different categories of cosmetics and the phthalates detected in each. The results were critically compared with those obtained in various previous studies. Full article

Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is a safe inorganic ultraviolet (UV) filter with activity against UV damage. However, the recombination of the carrier’s charge and the tendency for TiO₂ aggregation are the main disadvantages. Substrate supports, such as mesoporous silica, are biocompatible strategies to incorporate TiO₂, altering its interaction with the skin. Since the lips are sensitive to the adversities of the environment, including UV radiation, the application of lipstick sunscreens is of great importance and expected to provide protection for this particular area against sunburn and photoaging, among other unfavorable responses unprotected UV exposure. We investigated the in vitro photoprotective efficacy and photostability of lipstick formulations containing TiO₂ incorporated into mesoporous silica (SBA-15). The samples were the lipstick base; SBA-15; TiO₂ (free form); and TiO₂ incorporated into SBA-15. The photoprotective efficacy was characterized in vitro using a Labsphere UV2000S. Lipsticks were irradiated in a Suntest CPS+ chamber to evaluate functional photostability. Lipstick base and SBA-15 alone did not display photoprotective efficacy. The sample containing 10.0% TiO₂ incorporated into the mesoporous silica generated greater photostability and sun protection factor (SPF) value compared to the one containing only 10.0% TiO₂ (free state). Our findings suggest that TiO₂ + SBA-15 can be considered a broad-spectrum ingredient for innovative sunscreens, particularly for the photoprotection of the lips. Full article

A considerable amount of literature has been published on several aspects of lipsticks production. To date, there is no collation of studies related to lipsticks production that has been published. This review was conducted to examine information about the history of lipsticks; ingredients used in the preparation of lipsticks, focusing on the natural and chemical ingredients; methods of preparation for the lipsticks; and the characterization of the lipsticks. A literature search for English language articles was conducted by searching electronic databases including Web of Science, Scopus, PubMed, and Google Scholar. Overall, the evidence indicates that lipsticks have been used since ancient times and are among the highest demand cosmetics. The findings of this review summarize those of earlier studies that explained the use of different types of ingredients in the manufacturing processes of lipsticks. It highlights the importance of using green technology and ingredients to fabricate lipsticks to avoid potential side effects such as skin irritation and allergy reaction. Full article

The current consumer demands together with the international regulations have pushed the cosmetic industry to seek new active ingredients from natural renewable sources for manufacturing more eco-sustainability and safe products, with botanical extract being an almost unlimited source of these new actives. Essential oils (EOs) emerge as very common natural ingredients in cosmetics and toiletries as a result of both their odorous character for the design and manufacturing of fragrances and perfumes, and the many beneficial properties of their individual components (EOCs), e.g., anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, and, nowadays, the cosmetic industry includes EOs or different mixtures of their individual components (EOCs), either as active ingredients or as preservatives, in various product ranges (e.g., moisturizers, lotions and cleanser in skin care cosmetics; conditioners, masks or antidandruff products in hair care products; lipsticks, or fragrances in perfumery). However, the unique chemical profile of each individual essential oil is associated with different benefits, and hence it is difficult to generalize their potential applications in cosmetics and toiletries, which often require the effort of formulators in seeking suitable mixtures of EOs or EOCs for obtaining specific benefits in the final products. This work presents an updated review of the available literature related to the most recent advances in the application of EOs and EOCs in the manufacturing of cosmetic products. Furthermore, some specific aspects related to the safety of EOs and EOCs in cosmetics will be discussed. It is expected that the information contained in this comprehensive review can be exploited by formulators in the design and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing botanical extracts. Full article

The strategy to adopt for the development of a new lipstick formula requires, as a first step, the definition of the most important characteristics of a modern product. Successively, the identification of the key properties of any innovative ingredient is necessary. Then, a comprehension of the key parameters in the establishment of a stable equilibrium among the different formula components in the solid state is important. Moreover, it is necessary to study the interactions among the new ingredients and the other structural components in the formula. Finally, an evaluation of the sensory properties of the different final formulae for fine-tuning of practical performances needs to be carefully carried out. In this study, a systematic formulation approach tried to obtain a new lipstick formula using a new vegetal-derived emollient *(INCLUDING COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE, HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES) with sensorial properties similar to some types of silicones. Some application trials of the new raw material were carried out. The following aspects of this ingredient were investigated: (1) Compatibility and thickening with waxes, (2) dispersion power of pigments, and (3) influence on sensory characteristics of the formulated lipstick. This new emollient has been shown to improve some aspects of a lipstick formula, in particular shine, homogeneity, and covering effect. The optimization of the formula, in order to increase the sensation of softness on the lips, is described. *Plantasens Olive LD SP ECO, supplier Clariant Gmbh. Full article

1,3:2,4-Dibenzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) are well-known as low-molecular-weight organogelators (LMOGs) capable of gelling an organic liquid phase. Considering their unique chemical and physical properties, we assessed their potential effects in new lipstick formulations by discrimination testing; in vitro measurements of the sun protection factor (SPF); and thermal, mechanical and texture analyzes. DBS and 12-HSA were used to formulate four types of lipsticks: L1 (1% DBS), L2 (10% 12-HSA), L3 (1.5% DBS) and L4 (control, no LMOGs). The lipsticks were tested for sensory perception with an untrained panel of 16 consumers. LMOG formulations exhibited higher UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and in vitro SPF, particularly in the 12-HSA-based lipstick. Regarding thermal properties, the 12-HSA-based lipstick and those without LMOGs were more heat-amenable compared to thermoresistant DBS-based lipsticks. The results also showed the viscoelastic and thermally reversible properties of LMOGs and their effect of increasing pay-off values. In general, the texture analysis indicated that 12-HSA-based lipstick was significantly harder to bend compared to control, while the other formulations became softer and easier to bend throughout the stability study. This work suggests the potential use of LMOGs as a structuring agent for lipsticks, paving the way towards more photoprotective and sustainable alternatives. Full article

The move toward green, sustainable, natural products has been growing in the cosmetic and personal care industry. Ingredients derived from marine organisms and algae are present in many cosmetic products. In this study, a new green ingredient, a wax (i.e., long-chain alkenones) derived from Isochyrsis sp., was evaluated as an alternative for cosmetic waxes. First, the melting point was determined (71.1–77.4 °C), then the alkenones’ thickening capability in five emollients was evaluated and compared to microcrystalline wax and ozokerite. Alkenones were compatible with three emollients and thickened the emollients similarly to the other waxes. Then, lipsticks and lip balms were formulated with and without alkenones. All products remained stable at room temperature for 10 weeks. Lipstick formulated with alkenones was the most resistant to high temperature. Finally, alkenones were compared to three cosmetic thickening waxes in creams. Viscosity, rheology, and stability of the creams were evaluated. All creams had a gel-like behavior. Both viscosity and storage modulus increased in the same order: cream with alkenones < cetyl alcohol < stearic acid < glyceryl monostearate. Overall, alkenones’ performance was comparable to the other three waxes. Alkenones can thus offer a potential green choice as a new cosmetic structuring agent. Full article

The D-optimal mixture experimental design was employed to optimize the melting point of natural lipstick based on pitaya (Hylocereus polyrhizus) seed oil. The influence of the main lipstick components—pitaya seed oil (10%–25% w/w), virgin coconut oil (25%–45% w/w), beeswax (5%–25% w/w), candelilla wax (1%–5% w/w) and carnauba wax (1%–5% w/w)—were investigated with respect to the melting point properties of the lipstick formulation. The D-optimal mixture experimental design was applied to optimize the properties of lipstick by focusing on the melting point with respect to the above influencing components. The D-optimal mixture design analysis showed that the variation in the response (melting point) could be depicted as a quadratic function of the main components of the lipstick. The best combination of each significant factor determined by the D-optimal mixture design was established to be pitaya seed oil (25% w/w), virgin coconut oil (37% w/w), beeswax (17% w/w), candelilla wax (2% w/w) and carnauba wax (2% w/w). With respect to these factors, the 46.0 °C melting point property was observed experimentally, similar to the theoretical prediction of 46.5 °C. Carnauba wax is the most influential factor on this response (melting point) with its function being with respect to heat endurance. The quadratic polynomial model sufficiently fit the experimental data. Full article