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Article

Preparation, Characterization and Evaluation of Organogel-Based Lipstick Formulations: Application in Cosmetics

1
Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Montréal, Montréal, QC H3T 1J4, Canada
2
Institut des Sciences Pharmaceutiques et Biologiques, Université de Lyon (UCBL), Biologie Tissulaire et Ingénierie Thérapeutique UMR 5305 et Vecteurs Colloïdaux et Transport Tissulaire, 8 Avenue Rockefeller, CEDEX 08, 69373 Lyon, France
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Academic Editors: Vijay Kumar Thakur and Jean-Michel Guenet
Received: 26 May 2021 / Revised: 15 June 2021 / Accepted: 5 July 2021 / Published: 19 July 2021
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Gels Horizons: From Science to Smart Materials)
1,3:2,4-Dibenzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) are well-known as low-molecular-weight organogelators (LMOGs) capable of gelling an organic liquid phase. Considering their unique chemical and physical properties, we assessed their potential effects in new lipstick formulations by discrimination testing; in vitro measurements of the sun protection factor (SPF); and thermal, mechanical and texture analyzes. DBS and 12-HSA were used to formulate four types of lipsticks: L1 (1% DBS), L2 (10% 12-HSA), L3 (1.5% DBS) and L4 (control, no LMOGs). The lipsticks were tested for sensory perception with an untrained panel of 16 consumers. LMOG formulations exhibited higher UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and in vitro SPF, particularly in the 12-HSA-based lipstick. Regarding thermal properties, the 12-HSA-based lipstick and those without LMOGs were more heat-amenable compared to thermoresistant DBS-based lipsticks. The results also showed the viscoelastic and thermally reversible properties of LMOGs and their effect of increasing pay-off values. In general, the texture analysis indicated that 12-HSA-based lipstick was significantly harder to bend compared to control, while the other formulations became softer and easier to bend throughout the stability study. This work suggests the potential use of LMOGs as a structuring agent for lipsticks, paving the way towards more photoprotective and sustainable alternatives. View Full-Text
Keywords: LMOGs; organogels; lipsticks; formulation; photoprotection; physicochemical analysis LMOGs; organogels; lipsticks; formulation; photoprotection; physicochemical analysis
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MDPI and ACS Style

Esposito, C.L.; Kirilov, P. Preparation, Characterization and Evaluation of Organogel-Based Lipstick Formulations: Application in Cosmetics. Gels 2021, 7, 97. https://doi.org/10.3390/gels7030097

AMA Style

Esposito CL, Kirilov P. Preparation, Characterization and Evaluation of Organogel-Based Lipstick Formulations: Application in Cosmetics. Gels. 2021; 7(3):97. https://doi.org/10.3390/gels7030097

Chicago/Turabian Style

Esposito, Cloé L., and Plamen Kirilov. 2021. "Preparation, Characterization and Evaluation of Organogel-Based Lipstick Formulations: Application in Cosmetics" Gels 7, no. 3: 97. https://doi.org/10.3390/gels7030097

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